I'll be visiting that site next - but I guess this will be my new "home" at the Town Forum. At least I'll be out of the Grand Marquis/Crown Vic site that I don't think has had a dozen posts this year yet.
I now have 20,000 miles on my 2000 SSEi and when my brakes are cold and wet, they make a vibrating/squealing noise until they are warm and dry. Also when they are wet they require more pedal push. Is this normal? My car goes in this week for an oil change and clock/radio replacement as the left side of the display has become very dim; bulb out. Should I have the brakes checked? The clock/radio display went out completely on my '97 when I had 75,000 miles on it. Since they have to replace the entire radio (you can't just replace a bulb), I lived without the display for the six months remaining on that lease. I wasn't going to spend $180.00 at that time. I bought myself a "stick-on" digital clock for $8.00 and lived without knowing what station I was listening to.
Well Gentlemen, I have decided to give a weekly diatribe on performance and how to best attain it. Being the innaugural report, we shall simply deal with generalizations. Hopefully we shall all learn physics and how to best apply them to your specific situations.
Basically there are three issues we shall address. Horsepower, weight, and traction. One isn't much good if not related correctly to the others.
Of the three, more is always better in two of the categories, horespower and traction.
Horsepower is simply necessary to performance, and more, any more, as much more as you can possibly have, is almost ALWAYS better. We shall refer to the "almost" part in chapter 11, "Engine and Driveline Rebuilding and Your Wallet".
More traction is always better too, and there are subcategories regarding traction, straight line and lateral. And, as we will learn, traction is not just a function of acceleration and drive wheels. Traction is of the utmost importance in deceleration too. We shall examine that in our insurance chapter.
Of the third, weight, in excess, is always undesireable in either cars, or significant others. However, some weight is an absolute function of traction.
So let us examine a word problem: Linda has just picked up her fat [non-permissible content removed] boyfriend in her new SSEi and wants to go cruising. Bruno, weighing in at aobut 235 is relatively short, dumpy, and stupid looking. To make matters worse, Linda is a Babe and a half, and I can never figure these things out.....I mean what is she THINKING??!.... but I digress....... Anyway, Linda pulls up next to a new Dodge RT with 225 hp. Linda's SSEi produces 240. Both vehicles are front wheel drive. Upon doing the math, by taking the vehicles weight, and dividing it by the number of horsepower, we arrive at a horsepower to weight ratio. All other things being equal, the HTW ratio is the proboble determining factor in who gets to where first. Enter Big [non-permissible content removed] Bruno. Linda, who should have dumped this dweeb years ago, is at a serious disadvantage. She needs to boot his [non-permissible content removed] out on the curb, run and dust the RT, and then KEEP GOING. This then becomes Hot "single" Babe in an SSEi and makes an already attractive car even more so.
Next week: Swaybars. The shortest distance between two points is not always a straight line.
I have been lurking over at the Bonneville owners club board for about a year and have just now found this board. Glad to see so many 2000 SSEi owners that want more performance. I got my 2000 SSEi last March. Black with chrome wheels and sunroof. Dark grey interior. I have made the following mods:
Magnuson Stout Snout with 3.4" pulley RAT stage II MAF Sensor/Throttle Body Magnacore plug wires K&N drop in filter Exhaust heat wrap on the cross over exhaust pipe Mobil One oil 180 degree thermostat Transmission cooler RAT Fuel Pressure Riser Painted all brake calipers red removed and painted black all SSEi emblems then reapplied window tinting G-Tech performance monitor Escort 5000 radar detector
All I need now is to get rid of the darn speed limiter.
I am interested in the 3.25" pulley, I have not seen this available. I will contact Super Chips to let them know of another SSEi owner that needs thier help.
Sounds like you're serious. Welcome to our little group.
I have the Stage 2 MAF/throttle body, throttle body spacer, exhaust heat shield, underdrive pulleys, and AFPR all on order from RAT since Friday. All of this gives me a few questions for you:
1) I have heard lots of bad things about their customer service and lead times. I went ahead and ordered from them anyways, because they are the only company with some of the parts I want. So, how bad are they?
2) I have heard the MAF to be worth anywhere from 3 to 20 horsepower. What is your opinion?
3) Regarding fuel pressure, did your car have the standard 52psi when you started?
4) Did you set it to 56psi like most of the Grand Prix guys?
5) Did you happen to get your before and after front O2 sensor voltages at WOT?
6) Are there any other folks on the other board who are making SSEi mods?
You can get your 3.25" pulley from Rob Szymanski - Extreme Performance (810) 530-3554. I'm in Detroit tonight, and we just went to dinner and talked cars for a couple hours...
Glad to have another hardcore SSEi owner on board...
THANKS STEPHAN FOR THE K&N INFO JEG'S HAS THEM FOR $37.99 AND THE CLEANING KIT FOR ABOUT $9.00. ARE THESE GOOD PRICES? I'M GOING TO START SLOW WITH THE MODS AND NOTE THE IMPROVMENTS. CONCERNED ABOUT THE MANUF. WARR. I SPENT 32K ON A NEW CAR AND WORRY ABOUT A $40.00 AIR FILTER. GO FIGURE!!!!
1) I have worked with better companies but all in all they seem to be good guys. A little slow in shipping but they finally got everything to me correctly.
2) The MAF seemed to make the most difference in the feel of the Guts. The engine seemed to pull well with the new pulley which I put on first. It would pull well then kind of peter out while winding out. With the new MAF unit the thing keeps on pulling, it doesn't seem to peter out anymore. As to HP I would guess about 15 to 20.
3) Yes I measured 52 psi stock and adjusted it to around 57 psi.
4) No I did not get any O2 measurements.
I feel that the mods have helped to make the SSEi about 280+ HP. I have the G-Tech but so far all my measurements have been to varied. No real trend to be able to settle on a good number.
All I know is that I played with a friend from work one night on the intersate. He has a Lexus GS400. I don't think that I could have passed him but he could not pull away from me at all. Except when I hit the 126 speed limiter!
I paid $49.99 plus tax for the filter from a local performance shop. I did not figure I needed the cleaner because the box says that it will only need cleaning every 50,000-100,000 miles except under extremely dusty conditions. I plan to keep the car for 90,000 miles max. and generally drive mostly highway. The paper work in the box says it fits 1994-1997 Pontiac Bonneville V6-3.8L(1). I'm not sure what the (1) designates. Obviously the filter was in stock for a long time or their paper work hasn't been updated.
Im glad to see another Bonneville Site I usually frequent this site---> (http://www.insidetheweb.com/messageboard/mbs.cgi?acct=mb155655). I've got a 93 SSE supercharged, 138,000 miles. I bought the car in 95 with 65,000 miles on it. I've replaced the supercharger and put a new longblock in it. I've got a K&N in it but no other mods. I have had many things go wrong with it. I have tried to keep up on the repairs but there are so many more to go. If anyone could help me with them I would really appreciate it. Just to name a few.
1. Heads up display does not work. It has a burn on the read out card. Anywhere I can get one? I have called every local salvage yard and no one has any SSEs in their yards.
2. Electric windows not working right. drivers side windows work fine but passenger side windows will only go down from drivers side and will only go up from passengers side.
3. Drivers seat came unattached from the front two legs. With the power of the Bonne everytime I take off my seat lays back in the back seat. I have to hold on tight to the steering wheel. Has anyone had t replace their seats? Were they expensive? Do I have to replace the whole seat?
4. The most disgusting problem. I am getting passed by Civics!!! Like I said I have changed the supercharger and put a new longblock in it. I am getting tired of giving the dealership money. When I step hard on the gas the Bonneville knocks real hard and all pickup is gone unless I let off the gas. I have changed all the coils, plugs, wires and fuel filter. I cannot tell if the problem is with the ignition or fuel injection or maybe something completely different. O2 sensor? Knock sensor?
Well, I wont bore you with anymore problems. It may sound from what I've told you that it is a real "piece" but it still looks great. I think these cars are the best looking cars that have been built within the last 25 years. Thanks in advance for any help you guys can give.
Not to sound mean, but you need to get rid of that car! I have a 1993 SSE as well, but mine isn't supercharged. I have had the water pump, battery, alternator, rear brake cylinders (whatever the hell those are), rotors, 2 tires, power window motor, and brake master cylinder replaced in the past 7 or so months. Of course, I bought the car with 68K on it along with an aftermarket extended warranty. Only things I paid for were the battery, tires, and rotors. Saved over $2000 already, and only paid $1000 for the warranty.
Anyway, my last Bonneville was a 1994 SE model. The seats came lose in it just like yours, but I never had them replaced. With the acceleration, have them check the throttle position sensor. Just got that replaced on my 1993 as well (under warranty), along with some other sensors (mass air flow, etc.). That might do the trick. If I were you though, I would think long and hard about getting rid of that damn car and getting a newer Bonneville in better shape. All those repairs seem like too much to be done to one car, especially with that much mileage on it.
This is soooo nice! What a great car this 2000 Bonneville SE is - of course it's night and day from the old Grand Marquis that I had been driving for the last several years.
Who can explain what MAGNASTEER is all about? I believe it is std on all Bonnevilles including my SE.
Another question - for those of you who have children - this our first car with passenger airbag (driver's only in other vehicles) and these new 'depowered' units are supposedly safer for smaller adults and kids than the older version. Our kids are just over 5 ft and weigh 80 - 90 lbs now - I'm not certain about letting them ride in the front passenger seat - any suggestions or comments?
Again congratulations! Nice ride...you'll love that Bonnie....I am envious ;-).
Send us some pics whenever you get a chance.
Magnasteer is the ultimate power steering system developed by GM and Delphi/Saginaw steering systems. The steering system uses 'Magnets' and computer controlled inputs to regulate hydrualic pressure with incredible precision. This translates into the correct steering level of effort according to the driving conditions.....more assist for parking...firmer steering at higher speeds. Magnasteer also claims to provide better steering feedback, but I couple of cars that I have driven with Magnasteer feel somewhat disconnected from the road. I believe Magnasteer II is the lates revision of this system.
I am not sure if your Bonnie SE has a regular steering system or if it comes with Magnasteer II. I know that the Bonnie SSE-I has it as standard equipment, not sure about the Bonnie SLE model.
I'll find you an excellent link that explains in detail every steering system ever used by GM, including Magnasteer.
Thanks Teo for your feedback - I've lost count of how many times now you've had the answer for the 'question of the day'! I think I saw in the 2000 catalogue that Magnasteer was std in all Bonnevilles.
As for driving - my wife tells me that since she is the one who INSISTED we buy this car that I can expect to become quite acquainted with the passenger seat when we ride together (GROAN!) Should have held out for dual power seats!
Fortunately, I have frequent business road trips to PA (who would fly when you can drive???!!!) and a 100 mile a day round trip commute and she is not in my carpool. Yes - I love to drive.
After two months of preparation, I'm finally planning to install my custom exhaust this weekend. Following is a condensed outline of the exciting stuff:
- The Other Guys headers - 'wrapped' crossover pipe - no catalytic converter - rear O2 sensor simulator - no resonator - 3" pipe all the way to the 'Y' - custom 'Y' splitting into 2-1/2" duals - Ultraflo mufflers - Borla dual intercooled tips
Having been following intense01's mad Doctor syndrome (read: he is creating a monster) I for one, highly recommend purchasing stock in Goodyear. Trust me on this one..........
Wow! Headers and no cat. Ballsy move. We have emission inspections to get plates every year. They would lock me up and throw away the key if I showed up at the testing station with no cat. I am jealous and anticipate your results. You must send me a MP3 of the sound when all is done. Or just a picture of your car passing a Z/28 would suffice. I'm just trying to figure out how to imitate these 20 degree temps when its 90 this summer.
You guys are definitely right about heat being our weakness. I did ten back to back 0-60 mph runs last night with less than a minute between the tests:
6.33 6.27 6.39 6.48 6.55 6.63 6.81 6.90 6.75 6.82
Engine coolant temperature never varied by more than a couple degrees (178 to 183). Intake air temperature was reasonably stable (25 to 40 degrees). The launches were fairly consistent (40% throttle launch, easing up to 100% by 35 mph). It must be supercharger heat causing the diminishing returns syndrome illustrated above...
Can't wait to hear how this exhaust system works out on your car Scott. Me I wimped out. I just had a couple of Vortex mufflers installed. The guy said they have a higher flow rate than Flowmaster. Until my warranty expires I guess I'll have to wait to turn into Dr. Frankenstein.
I have a 2000 SSEi with 9000 miles. I'm wondering if anyone has used a synthetic engine oil long enough in this engine to know if it is beneficial,or just a big waste of money? I am open to all suggestions and comments on brands, weights, and change intervals. Thanks for any help.
I'm using Mobil One and changing when the computer says 50% oil life left. Synthetic has much better tolerance for high heat than regular oil. Also its viscosity is much more consistant at low and high temps.
I used to change oil at 2,000 miles (previous cars) and but switched Mobil One when I discovered the new Vettes shipped with it. I now average 5,000 miles on an oil change, so while the oil is more expensive per quart, I only use about 40% of the oil...... and filter.
On the 2000 SSEi, went for two regular oil changes before switching to synthetic. Just had my second charge of synthetic (at 11,000 miles) which should hold until about 16,000 before the 'puter hits 50%. I had hoped to see some increased mpg and/or performance, but did not. But the car has been flawless... not even a rattle... due to the oil I'm sure
The '98 Vette has 34,000 miles on it and it has been flawless also... cept for going thru $1,200 worth of tires in 30,000 miles and it had a tailpipe fall off (stainless weld broke).
I bought the G-tech with the intentions of doing just that, documenting the progress with the changes I made. Alas, I failed in my attempts, heck I just put the stuff on and did it as fast as I could just to feel it with the seat of my pants indicators. No hard proof of the upgrade changes but it sure does feel better. The G-tech is a little difficult to use and get consistent readings.
1) Scott, I don't remember asking about the VIN code on my SSEi. Was this meant for someone else?
2) Ken, I have never worried about having anyone over 5' tall in the front passenger seat with an air bag. As a matter of fact, much to the chagrin of my wife, my under 5' daughter rides up front with me. If you and your kids have more enjoyment being up front together, throw caution to the wind:)
I've been doing some surfing around here on the issue of the airbags and it looks like my oldest 2 are ok there - keeping the seat pushed back helps too. One feature that is great on this Bonnie is the shoulder belt built into the seat itself such that if the seat is reclined, the belt moves back with the passenger. I like that.
Also - I was reading the brochure yesterday and discovered that these front seats are the 'catcher's mit' design that LeSabre also uses (and advertises). I had been impressed with that idea to reduce whiplash from rear end collision and had considered LeSabre for that very reason but reeeeally wanted the buckets. Nice to know they are here in the Bonneville too. The more I find out about this car, the better I like it.
Just got home from taking the family out for dinner. Since my son needed to get home to finish his homework before tomorrows's Super Bowl activities, I was driving a bit aggressively. When I saw the left turn arrow meant for me turn yellow, I pushed it a bit. I don't think the trooper would of stopped a "regular" family sedan, but my supercharged Bonnie was too tempting for him. He just had to check me out. Thank god the wife and kids were in the car or I'm sure he would of lightened my wallet more than the Saturday night out dinner did! When I told him the truth about why I ran the light, he asked my son if he really had homework to do. The boy came through and the cop let me go without even a warning, except to tell me to remove my lucite license plate cover which I now know is illegal in Massachusetts. I think I'll leave the cover on until the next warning.
Scott - I was reviewing previous posts and realized what you meant about the VIN. Sorry I spaced. If the (1) specification on the K+N paper work does mean that the model 33-2086 is only for the supercharged V6-3.8L engine, then those with an SLE or SE would need a different filter.
After twelve solid hours working on the SSEi today, I am happy to report that the Grand Prix headers DO FIT.
The only major casualty I had was the transmission dipstick tube. You could say I got a little frustrated with it during a high-tech bending manuever, and now I guess I'll have to admit I need a new one.
Evidently, this dipstick tube runs a different route on our cars than on Grand Prix's. However, I don't think this is a major issue, since there is plenty of room for potential reroutes (for those with more patience than me).
The header installation was a MAJOR task. I haven't even started on the remainder of the exhaust system yet. Guess that will be tomorrow...
Well, this is a good thing Scott, now we know that with your newly found expertese and experience, all we need to do is bring you a new dipstick tube and you will have ours done in a flash. I think I can speak for all of us when I say thanks in advance. Now we just have to figure out who gets to drop their car off first. What a guy.........
Just thought you Bonnie owners might like to know that the 2001 Aurora service manuals say that the steering effort can be dealer adjusted. There are "more firm" and "less firm" settings in addition to the factory setting. The scan tool is required, but the service manuals speak of doing it per customer request. For those of you pushing the power up, why not have your dealer add more "road feel" too? I have a 2001 AV8 w/4K on the odo. Just "installed" 7.5 quarts of Mobil 1 0w30 (thirsty motor). Since we run on the same chassis (and come from the same factory), have any of you looked into installing the 4T80E tranny? Think ZERO torque steer! What fun cars!
I've seen in the Helm manual about the 3 steering firmness settings. It's been on my list of things to get done at the dealer for many months, but I just HATE going to the dealer...
I think I may end up being the first on this list to bust my transaxle. If so, I also promise to be first trying to squeeze the 4T80E into my engine compartment. I was hoping one of the Grand Prix guys would be the pioneer...
My 2000 with 9000 miles takes a lot of effort to brake when the roads are wet and slushy with snow. Once the brakes are hot, it takes less push. But ten minutes later, same thing - hard to stop. It makes me think I should change the pads. Anyone else have a suggestion for me? I had a Buick Regal with 4 wheel discs, and they were not like this. Oh yes, I have never noticed this problem with dry conditions, only when the brakes are wet.
Any brakes that are wet require extra effort to make them perform. After "heating" them up, you are in essense drying them out. Brake material generally will operated better when warm, brakes by their nature are a function of friction. This is true unless of course they get too hot, in which case you are back to the wet brake feel or even worse.
A change of pads may help in regards to working better until the material warms up, but wet will still be wet. You must be in some awfully wet conditions however, to get the rotors and pads wet. Usually this occurs when driving through deep standing water, slowly enough to allow the water to reach these components, otherwise under normal conditions, there shouldn't be such problems with wet parts, they are generally protected from spray, etc. Good luck. Drive fast, take chances. Have fun.
with my new Bonnie this weekend. I wonder if they are accross the board for you guys or not.
1. The visor, when turned to block glare on the side window, is too short to be effective. There is no sliding extendor as other cars I have seen. Is this just in the SE model? If there are different visors on the SLE, SSEi I may look into purchasing the different visor.
2. The FM band on the radio does not work when the rear window defroster is engaged. Static is all you hear - I checked up and down the dial so I know it's not just a particular station. AM band is ok but some static evident. Again - any of you other have this annoyance?
Any of you Olds, Buick, Chevy guys that monitor this column have these issues?
I find new things to like about this car every time I get behind the wheel -like the windshield wiper stalk being separate on the right side of the wheel instead of that multifunction turn signal stalk. Glad GM finally got that right in a car!
That radio thing needs to be checked out. You might wanna check into it when you go back for a routine service or something. Even though the antenna for the radio is in the rear window, you should not hear static when turning on the defogger.
Also, that sunvisor thing would really get to me as well. Of course, the sun is always on my left side going to and coming from work so it would really get to me after awhile.
I am thinking about trading my 1993 SSE for a 1998-99 or possibly a 2000 model. I really want a 2000 SSEi, but cannot afford premium gas for it. But I heard from Cons. Reports the 1998-99 models are not very reliable. Is that true? Just curious.
Just thought about this one to ask - do any of you notice distortion along the bottom of the rear window? I thought it might be the rear view mirror but when I turn around and look through the window it is very visible at the bottom - below the heating elements.
When driving and glancing into the rear view mirror, cars may appear to balloon in size - a surging look only when the line of sight is through the distorted section. Kinda like the funny mirror at the amusement park!
Both my front and rear winidows of my 1993 SSE are like that. The HUD display sometimes looks like it's balooning towards me because of this. On the 1994 SE model I had before this 1993 SSE, the rear window was like that at the bottom, but the front one was not. It's just probably a design flaw because of the "roundness" of the windows at the bottom where they meet the body of the car.
Four days ago I did a bunch of 0-60 runs using my G-Tech. At 25 degrees, the first seven runs averaged 6.49 seconds:
6.33 - 6.27 - 6.39 - 6.48 - 6.55 - 6.63 - 6.81
This weekend I completed the new exhaust installation. So today I had to do another seven 0-60 runs:
6.30 - 6.35 - 6.19 - 6.40 - 6.27 - 6.23 - 6.24
The average was 6.28 seconds, and the outside temperature was 47 degrees.
First impression is that the exhaust system is worth at least two tenths of a second in 0-60 time, plus the affect of increased temperature, plus whatever I get after the PCM gets used to a free-flowing exhaust system.
Second impression is that the headers must help scavenge some heat from the engine compartment better. Notice how the times didn't start going to [non-permissible content removed] after the third run...
well intense... how does it sound? Indy car? GTO? Cabin cruiser? I feel it's safe to say, you are about a ram air away from the 5 second bracket. The 5 second club is a world class club. You may want to move to alaska to keep the cold ambient temps.
Comments
Ken
The clock/radio display went out completely on my '97 when I had 75,000 miles on it. Since they have to replace the entire radio (you can't just replace a bulb), I lived without the display for the six months remaining on that lease. I wasn't going to spend $180.00 at that time. I bought myself a "stick-on" digital clock for $8.00 and lived without knowing what station I was listening to.
Basically there are three issues we shall address. Horsepower, weight, and traction. One isn't much good if not related correctly to the others.
Of the three, more is always better in two of the categories, horespower and traction.
Horsepower is simply necessary to performance, and more, any more, as much more as you can possibly have, is almost ALWAYS better. We shall refer to the "almost" part in chapter 11, "Engine and Driveline Rebuilding and Your Wallet".
More traction is always better too, and there are subcategories regarding traction, straight line and lateral. And, as we will learn, traction is not just a function of acceleration and drive wheels. Traction is of the utmost importance in deceleration too. We shall examine that in our insurance chapter.
Of the third, weight, in excess, is always undesireable in either cars, or significant others. However, some weight is an absolute function of traction.
So let us examine a word problem: Linda has just picked up her fat [non-permissible content removed] boyfriend in her new SSEi and wants to go cruising. Bruno, weighing in at aobut 235 is relatively short, dumpy, and stupid looking. To make matters worse, Linda is a Babe and a half, and I can never figure these things out.....I mean what is she THINKING??!.... but I digress....... Anyway, Linda pulls up next to a new Dodge RT with 225 hp. Linda's SSEi produces 240. Both vehicles are front wheel drive. Upon doing the math, by taking the vehicles weight, and dividing it by the number of horsepower, we arrive at a horsepower to weight ratio. All other things being equal, the HTW ratio is the proboble determining factor in who gets to where first. Enter Big [non-permissible content removed] Bruno. Linda, who should have dumped this dweeb years ago, is at a serious disadvantage. She needs to boot his [non-permissible content removed] out on the curb, run and dust the RT, and then KEEP GOING. This then becomes Hot "single" Babe in an SSEi and makes an already attractive car even more so.
Next week: Swaybars. The shortest distance between two points is not always a straight line.
WHAT IS THE EXACT PART NO. FOR A K&N AIR FILTER FOR A 2001 SSEi?
THANKS
I have been lurking over at the Bonneville owners club board for about a year and have just now found this board. Glad to see so many 2000 SSEi owners that want more performance. I got my 2000 SSEi last March. Black with chrome wheels and sunroof. Dark grey interior. I have made the following mods:
Magnuson Stout Snout with 3.4" pulley
RAT stage II MAF Sensor/Throttle Body
Magnacore plug wires
K&N drop in filter
Exhaust heat wrap on the cross over exhaust pipe
Mobil One oil
180 degree thermostat
Transmission cooler
RAT Fuel Pressure Riser
Painted all brake calipers red
removed and painted black all SSEi emblems then reapplied
window tinting
G-Tech performance monitor
Escort 5000 radar detector
All I need now is to get rid of the darn speed limiter.
I am interested in the 3.25" pulley, I have not seen this available. I will contact Super Chips to let them know of another SSEi owner that needs thier help.
Hope to become a frequent flier to this board.
Ken Bidwell
He definitely writes the most amusing posts!
Sounds like you're serious. Welcome to our little group.
I have the Stage 2 MAF/throttle body, throttle body spacer, exhaust heat shield, underdrive pulleys, and AFPR all on order from RAT since Friday. All of this gives me a few questions for you:
1) I have heard lots of bad things about their customer service and lead times. I went ahead and ordered from them anyways, because they are the only company with some of the parts I want. So, how bad are they?
2) I have heard the MAF to be worth anywhere from 3 to 20 horsepower. What is your opinion?
3) Regarding fuel pressure, did your car have the standard 52psi when you started?
4) Did you set it to 56psi like most of the Grand Prix guys?
5) Did you happen to get your before and after front O2 sensor voltages at WOT?
6) Are there any other folks on the other board who are making SSEi mods?
You can get your 3.25" pulley from Rob Szymanski - Extreme Performance (810) 530-3554. I'm in Detroit tonight, and we just went to dinner and talked cars for a couple hours...
Glad to have another hardcore SSEi owner on board...
Scott
Oh I know it's no SSEi but still a great car and affordable and I look forward to participating here.
Ken
JEG'S HAS THEM FOR $37.99 AND THE CLEANING KIT FOR ABOUT $9.00.
ARE THESE GOOD PRICES?
I'M GOING TO START SLOW WITH THE MODS AND NOTE THE IMPROVMENTS.
CONCERNED ABOUT THE MANUF. WARR.
I SPENT 32K ON A NEW CAR AND WORRY ABOUT A $40.00 AIR FILTER.
GO FIGURE!!!!
2) The MAF seemed to make the most difference in the feel of the Guts. The engine seemed to pull well with the new pulley which I put on first. It would pull well then kind of peter out while winding out. With the new MAF unit the thing keeps on pulling, it doesn't seem to peter out anymore. As to HP I would guess about 15 to 20.
3) Yes I measured 52 psi stock and adjusted it to around 57 psi.
4) No I did not get any O2 measurements.
I feel that the mods have helped to make the SSEi about 280+ HP. I have the G-Tech but so far all my measurements have been to varied. No real trend to be able to settle on a good number.
All I know is that I played with a friend from work one night on the intersate. He has a Lexus GS400. I don't think that I could have passed him but he could not pull away from me at all. Except when I hit the 126 speed limiter!
Ken
The paper work in the box says it fits 1994-1997 Pontiac Bonneville V6-3.8L(1). I'm not sure what the (1) designates. Obviously the filter was in stock for a long time or their paper work hasn't been updated.
1. Heads up display does not work. It has a burn on the read out card. Anywhere I can get one? I have called every local salvage yard and no one has any SSEs in their yards.
2. Electric windows not working right. drivers side windows work fine but passenger side windows will only go down from drivers side and will only go up from passengers side.
3. Drivers seat came unattached from the front two legs. With the power of the Bonne everytime I take off my seat lays back in the back seat. I have to hold on tight to the steering wheel. Has anyone had t replace their seats? Were they expensive? Do I have to replace the whole seat?
4. The most disgusting problem. I am getting passed by Civics!!! Like I said I have changed the supercharger and put a new longblock in it. I am getting tired of giving the dealership money. When I step hard on the gas the Bonneville knocks real hard and all pickup is gone unless I let off the gas. I have changed all the coils, plugs, wires and fuel filter. I cannot tell if the problem is with the ignition or fuel injection or maybe something completely different. O2 sensor? Knock sensor?
Well, I wont bore you with anymore problems. It may sound from what I've told you that it is a real "piece" but it still looks great. I think these cars are the best looking cars that have been built within the last 25 years. Thanks in advance for any help you guys can give.
Scotts 93SSE
Have you gotten any 0 - 60 MPH times from your G-tech? Maybe befores and afters for some of your mods?
Scott
Scott
Anyway, my last Bonneville was a 1994 SE model. The seats came lose in it just like yours, but I never had them replaced. With the acceleration, have them check the throttle position sensor. Just got that replaced on my 1993 as well (under warranty), along with some other sensors (mass air flow, etc.). That might do the trick. If I were you though, I would think long and hard about getting rid of that damn car and getting a newer Bonneville in better shape. All those repairs seem like too much to be done to one car, especially with that much mileage on it.
Who can explain what MAGNASTEER is all about? I believe it is std on all Bonnevilles including my SE.
Another question - for those of you who have children - this our first car with passenger airbag (driver's only in other vehicles) and these new 'depowered' units are supposedly safer for smaller adults and kids than the older version. Our kids are just over 5 ft and weigh 80 - 90 lbs now - I'm not certain about letting them ride in the front passenger seat - any suggestions or comments?
Best to all
Ken
Send us some pics whenever you get a chance.
Magnasteer is the ultimate power steering system developed by GM and Delphi/Saginaw steering systems. The steering system uses 'Magnets' and computer controlled inputs to regulate hydrualic pressure with incredible precision. This translates into the correct steering level of effort according to the driving conditions.....more assist for parking...firmer steering at higher speeds. Magnasteer also claims to provide better steering feedback, but I couple of cars that I have driven with Magnasteer feel somewhat disconnected from the road. I believe Magnasteer II is the lates revision of this system.
I am not sure if your Bonnie SE has a regular steering system or if it comes with Magnasteer II. I know that the Bonnie SSE-I has it as standard equipment, not sure about the Bonnie SLE model.
I'll find you an excellent link that explains in detail every steering system ever used by GM, including Magnasteer.
Enjoy your new ride!
PS: Getting a Chauffeur for the Bonnie?
As for driving - my wife tells me that since she is the one who INSISTED we buy this car that I can expect to become quite acquainted with the passenger seat when we ride together (GROAN!) Should have held out for dual power seats!
Fortunately, I have frequent business road trips to PA (who would fly when you can drive???!!!) and a 100 mile a day round trip commute and she is not in my carpool. Yes - I love to drive.
Ken
- The Other Guys headers
- 'wrapped' crossover pipe
- no catalytic converter
- rear O2 sensor simulator
- no resonator
- 3" pipe all the way to the 'Y'
- custom 'Y' splitting into 2-1/2" duals
- Ultraflo mufflers
- Borla dual intercooled tips
I'll let you all know how it goes...
I got the same headers sold for the Grand Prix's through the Grand Prix store, but I ordered them through Rob at Extreme Performance.
No one has tried these headers on the Bonneville yet, but I believe they will fit. And I certainly don't want to die wondering...
Scott
6.33
6.27
6.39
6.48
6.55
6.63
6.81
6.90
6.75
6.82
Engine coolant temperature never varied by more than a couple degrees (178 to 183). Intake air temperature was reasonably stable (25 to 40 degrees). The launches were fairly consistent (40% throttle launch, easing up to 100% by 35 mph). It must be supercharger heat causing the diminishing returns syndrome illustrated above...
Scott (Mad Doctor- I like that)
http://www.unclesamsforms.com/rich/exhaustsounds.html
I used to change oil at 2,000 miles (previous cars) and but switched Mobil One when I discovered the new Vettes shipped with it. I now average 5,000 miles on an oil change, so while the oil is more expensive per quart, I only use about 40% of the oil...... and filter.
On the 2000 SSEi, went for two regular oil changes before switching to synthetic. Just had my second charge of synthetic (at 11,000 miles) which should hold until about 16,000 before the 'puter hits 50%. I had hoped to see some increased mpg and/or performance, but did not. But the car has been flawless... not even a rattle... due to the oil I'm sure
The '98 Vette has 34,000 miles on it and it has been flawless also... cept for going thru $1,200 worth of tires in 30,000 miles and it had a tailpipe fall off (stainless weld broke).
Bill
I bought the G-tech with the intentions of doing just that, documenting the progress with the changes I made. Alas, I failed in my attempts, heck I just put the stuff on and did it as fast as I could just to feel it with the seat of my pants indicators. No hard proof of the upgrade changes but it sure does feel better. The G-tech is a little difficult to use and get consistent readings.
Ken
2) Ken, I have never worried about having anyone over 5' tall in the front passenger seat with an air bag. As a matter of fact, much to the chagrin of my wife, my under 5' daughter rides up front with me. If you and your kids have more enjoyment being up front together, throw caution to the wind:)
DRIVE SAFELY!
Stephen
Also - I was reading the brochure yesterday and discovered that these front seats are the 'catcher's mit' design that LeSabre also uses (and advertises). I had been impressed with that idea to reduce whiplash from rear end collision and had considered LeSabre for that very reason but reeeeally wanted the buckets. Nice to know they are here in the Bonneville too. The more I find out about this car, the better I like it.
Best to all - enjoy the weekend.
Ken
If the (1) specification on the K+N paper work does mean that the model 33-2086 is only for the supercharged V6-3.8L engine, then those with an SLE or SE would need a different filter.
The only major casualty I had was the transmission dipstick tube. You could say I got a little frustrated with it during a high-tech bending manuever, and now I guess I'll have to admit I need a new one.
Evidently, this dipstick tube runs a different route on our cars than on Grand Prix's. However, I don't think this is a major issue, since there is plenty of room for potential reroutes (for those with more patience than me).
The header installation was a MAJOR task. I haven't even started on the remainder of the exhaust system yet. Guess that will be tomorrow...
I think I may end up being the first on this list to bust my transaxle. If so, I also promise to be first trying to squeeze the 4T80E into my engine compartment. I was hoping one of the Grand Prix guys would be the pioneer...
A change of pads may help in regards to working better until the material warms up, but wet will still be wet. You must be in some awfully wet conditions however, to get the rotors and pads wet. Usually this occurs when driving through deep standing water, slowly enough to allow the water to reach these components, otherwise under normal conditions, there shouldn't be such problems with wet parts, they are generally protected from spray, etc. Good luck. Drive fast, take chances. Have fun.
1. The visor, when turned to block glare on the side window, is too short to be effective. There is no sliding extendor as other cars I have seen. Is this just in the SE model? If there are different visors on the SLE, SSEi I may look into purchasing the different visor.
2. The FM band on the radio does not work when the rear window defroster is engaged. Static is all you hear - I checked up and down the dial so I know it's not just a particular station. AM band is ok but some static evident. Again - any of you other have this annoyance?
Any of you Olds, Buick, Chevy guys that monitor this column have these issues?
I find new things to like about this car every time I get behind the wheel -like the windshield wiper stalk being separate on the right side of the wheel instead of that multifunction turn signal stalk. Glad GM finally got that right in a car!
Best to all
Ken
Also, that sunvisor thing would really get to me as well. Of course, the sun is always on my left side going to and coming from work so it would really get to me after awhile.
I am thinking about trading my 1993 SSE for a 1998-99 or possibly a 2000 model. I really want a 2000 SSEi, but cannot afford premium gas for it. But I heard from Cons. Reports the 1998-99 models are not very reliable. Is that true? Just curious.
When driving and glancing into the rear view mirror, cars may appear to balloon in size - a surging look only when the line of sight is through the distorted section. Kinda like the funny mirror at the amusement park!
Ken
6.33 - 6.27 - 6.39 - 6.48 - 6.55 - 6.63 - 6.81
This weekend I completed the new exhaust installation. So today I had to do another seven 0-60 runs:
6.30 - 6.35 - 6.19 - 6.40 - 6.27 - 6.23 - 6.24
The average was 6.28 seconds, and the outside temperature was 47 degrees.
First impression is that the exhaust system is worth at least two tenths of a second in 0-60 time, plus the affect of increased temperature, plus whatever I get after the PCM gets used to a free-flowing exhaust system.
Second impression is that the headers must help scavenge some heat from the engine compartment better. Notice how the times didn't start going to [non-permissible content removed] after the third run...