By accessing this website, you acknowledge that Edmunds and its third party business partners may use cookies, pixels, and similar technologies to collect information about you and your interactions with the website as described in our
Privacy Statement, and you agree that your use of the website is subject to our
Visitor Agreement.
Comments
My 2000 SSEi has almost 20,000 miles on it and has been trouble free. I've had minor issues like rattles and unusual noises, but no problems. It is a very good car.
Question 1: I hear a lot of talk re: smaller diameter pulleys, intake and exhaust mod, etc. Any real info on performance enhancement, honest reliable numbers?
Question 2: Where can I find these parts? On-line catalogue?
Question 3: I have heard and read of horsepower in the SSEI version at both 240 and 225. I always was under the impression that 240 was the stock correct hp. Clarification? Why no specs regarding the same in the owners manual? I cannot believe that the supercharger system provides only 20 additional horsepower.
Looking forward to gabbing in the medim, thanks,
Zzahh
I believe the stock horsepower in '95 was 225. It increased to 240 with the new supercharger design in '97.
I believe the reason the supercahrger only raises the rated horsepower by 35 or so is because the factory boost is so low. I have heard from a good source that GM views boost as 'a measure of inefficiency'.
I've made a lot of mods myself, and have to say that going to a 3.5" supercharger pulley should be your first move. They claim 20 - 25 horsepower with this change. I would have to say it's an easy 15. On the newer superchargers you can go right to a 3.25" pulley. I wouldn't recommend that on your car initially, because your supercahrger model had significantly more boost to begin with than the newer ones do. You'll also want to measure your stock pulley, and make sure your starting point is 3.8" diameter. Actually I have an entire '95 supercharger in the basement so I could measure it for you if you want...
A smaller pulley shouldn't impact your mileage at all - in theory. But it will in the real world, because you'll want to drive it harder every time you add more power. The only concern about the smaller pulley would be engine knock. This is not an issue for you, because our cars have knock sensor to automatically compensate. You will definitely need to run the highest grade of fuel, which you really should be doing already...
I would recommend Rob Syzmanski at Extreme Performance for a smaller pulley. I've purchased a bunch of stuff for the '00 L67 SSEi and the '00 LS1 Ram Air Trans Am from him. And he was riding shotgun when we took out a Mustang GT in the Bonneville. That alone makes him a good guy. He can be reached any time at (810) 530-3554.
Grandprix.net is about 500 folks, all with supercharged 3.8L engines, and tons of mods. It's the most exciting list I know of.
Good Luck with your mods. Hope this helps!
Scott
Your statement of the real world is so, so true. I have owned the Bonn's for their complete comfort and overall handling and performance. Mileage has always been a wonderful bonus, and hitting the interstate, cruise set at about 80 and kicking back with a great set of tunes and a female companion on a long road trip is one of life's pleasures.
However, there is the dark side. You are sitting at the light waiting your turn patiently when some yahoo pulls up on your right in the parking lane and expects to hot rod it off the lights, passing in the parking lane, and then cutting you off to avoid parked car/insurance claim syndrome. That is when the "i" part of the SSEi comes in handy and sweet. Change the CD to Ted Nugent, lose the female companion who will now become a megaphone explaining why you should just "let him go", how "immature you are being", and how it is "no wonder you don't get the 29 mpg you brag about on the highway". This type of situation, or a nice set of twisties on a country road, brings forth that time of life when divine intervention comes into play and you realize the truth, there are two pedals in this car, and one of them belongs at or near the floor at all times.
I am interested on a "H" platform car such as the Bonneville and the Aurora...I prefer the Bonnie for the 3800 V-6 over the 3.5L DOHC V6 in the Aurora...any comments are appreciated.
TEO
To answer your question I would buy another. I would have liked the 12 way power seats from the SSEi but did not want to have to use the premium fuel required by that engine.
I used to be strickly Oldsmobiles but the dealer retired and the dealership was closed. Most of the people went to the Pontiac dealer that I bought from. Also my son has 220k on his 88 Bonnie that I passed on to him in 1994. I think the 3800 engine is solid.
I feel like I'm on a slippery slope because now that I have read the posts about modifications, I have contacted Saner about the sway bar replacements. Passed it by my wife and knew I had her when she only nodded her head when I answered her question about what a sway bar is and what it does. I'll probably go the pulley route this summer but I don't know that the intercooler is in my future (cost and approval on the home front). We'll see how much time I have because I also have a one owner(me) 1970 1/2 Camaro that I'm getting ready to paint.
Ken
I'm really not much of a modifier... just like fast "stock" cars...
The SE model appears to include std A/C without the dual climate adjustments unless you have the option pkg 1SC that includes auto dual controls.
Does the SE model std A/C unit include manual dual controls for driver/passenger or is dual control feature available only with the automatic climate control and as part of 1SC pkg?
I would not get the 1SC if dual controls are std as they are in Regal and Impala LS.
Ken
As for the seat belts on the 2000, for long trips they are much better due to the anchor point and its , the belt doesn't cut into my neck . On the other hand the 2000 belt is harder to buckle up for some reason.
At first I was upset at the styling on the first 2000 SSEi I saw, was not going to buy one ! Then I drove the car and got such a thrill at the improvements in handling and braking over the 99 SSEi I had tested I decided I could live with the styling . Well now , it has really grown on me , it has become a car I enjoy looking at , and I'm not alone , strangers make nice comments about it (mostly under thirty crowd) Bottom line , I am much more pleased with my car now then when I first picked it up , and I was smiling pretty good that night !
As far as the styling of the 2001, I LOVE IT! I like the front of the SLE and SSEi models, because it looks cool with the integrated fog lamps. And for the record, I am 22 so I guess that makes me part of the under-30 crowd by a long shot.
vocus - Bonneville dimensions (in inches) follow:
1993 2000
39.2 Front Headroom 38.7
38.3 Rear Headroom 37.3
42.6 Front Leg room 42.6
38 Rear Leg room 38
59.8 Front Shoulder 59
59.4 Rear Shoulder 58
57.2 Front Hip room 55.7
57.1 Rear Hip room 56.4
110.8 Wheelbase 112.2
202.1 Length 202.6
74.5 Width 74.2
55.7 Height 56.6
18cu.ft. Trunk room 18cu.ft.
Although the numbers are similar and the rear leg room is the same, the configuration of the previous style Bonneville made it feel roomier. I also speak from experience as I had a '94 and a '97. The rear seats in the new Bonnie are tilted back and it just doesn't have the same area for legs as the older version. Even though I am comfortable in my 2000 (I am 6'0),and the shoulder belt is fine, I must admit my previous Bonnies were more comfortable for me and my passengers. For one thing, the seats were more "cushy".
Last Saturday night my wife and I went out with friends in their '99 BMW 740. Talk about rear leg room and space! I was amazed at the interior of that car. I didn't realize it was so much larger than the Bonneville.
Now I shall go out and buy a CAI kit just to make myself feel better.
Putting this pulley on an M90 would put the newer blower in some serious jeopardy, and probably cause tons of knock retard. I am not sure if the shaft sizes are the same anyways. I'd probably have to pull the pulley to find out.
This all stands to reason though. The older blower had 31% less capacity but still made more boost. I guess it would have had to be spinning a whole lot faster. That also might explain why the new blower is supposedly more reliable...
Also heard about his current plan: to install a LARGER (~4.0") supercharger pulley to reduce the Eaton boost to around 1-2 pounds. Then add a Vortech-style centrifigul supercharger (8 - 10 pounds of boost) and air-to-air intercooler to our engines.
I guess two superchargers in series sums boost. The Eaton would handle low-end response, and the Vortech would provide serious horsepower gains beginning around 3,000 RPM.
The intercooler itself would provide the biggest gains. Total horsepower gains are projected to be 60 - 70 horsepower at the wheels.
With that kind of power, we'd be in Grand National territory. Well, we'd be like Grand Nationals on bicyle tires...
Wondering if we go this route, would our cars then be referred to as 'supercharged, intercooled, and supercharged again'?
In round numbers, we gain 1% in horsepower for every 10 degree temperature reduction of our engine's intake charge. In theory, changing from a 195 degree thermostat to a 180 would give us 3.6 additional horsepower, and going to 160 degrees would be worth 8.4 horsepower on a stock engine. Both good bargains for the low cost and ease of installation.
For this reason, I have always been a big advocate of reduced temperature thermostats in all my cars. When I installed the 160 thermostat, everything was cool (no pun intended) for a few days (until three consecutive 'drive cycles', as I have now learned). Then I started getting the Service Engine Soon light.
Autotap told me the DTC (diagnostic trouble code)was P0128. Helm Manual said that meant the ECT (engine coolant temperature) sensor wasn't showing the engine ever reaching full operating temperature.
I tried a few tricks with some resistors in parallel to the sensor, and in place of the sensor, but there doesn't seem to be a combination to avoid this code, and still allow the car to start on cold days.
So, it's back to the 180 degree thermostat until our PCM programmers allow us to circumvent this code. And, of course, Doug was right (again).
She likes the seat belt better than the earlier models.
Thanks for the info on the M62 pulley ,thats an eye opener
Ken
Anyway, Carmax here in Laurel, Md. has a 1996 Bonneville SSEi with 75K for like $10,900 or something. I was thinking about trading, but not right now I don't think.
I averaged 23.5 mpg on the last tank of 89 octane with alot of highway driving. I put 87 in this time, and know the economy is lower already. I got like 210 miles from a half-tank before. Now, I am at like 170 to a half-tank. Oh well.
Any other out here with SE models? Any comments or suggestions?
Ken
I too have an SE model. I didn't realize the "no-spoiler" look was still an option. You're right, that nonfunctional piece does make a big difference in the appearance.
Mine's a White '99 with the charcoal interior. I bought it from a private party last july w/ 14K miles on it. Paid $14,200. Shopped for about 4 months. I have 24K miles on it now. It was/is in perfect condition and I absolutely love it. Been so pleased that we are now looking exclusively for a Montana to replace an older van we have. Never owned a Pontiac before but this one's been such a treat. I drive 21 miles one way to work, 1/2 freeway and 1/2 suburb -- moderate rush hour conditions. My only concern is that I don't get the mileage I hoped I would. I get between 18.5 and 21.5 and I am gentle with the pedal. I was hoping for at least the mid 20's. But the size, comfort and responsiveness was top on my list and I remain pleased with all of those.
I am considering someday installing the sway bar in the back that was talked about so much in the previous version of this forum.
DS.
(Of course, if we didn't have a golden retriever, I'd be satisfied with just the Bonneville but so far she's not allowed in that one! A sedan's fine for the kids, it's the dog who commands the van!)
DS.
Any ideas?
Ed
Questions: 1) So Cal as in 2 blocks from the ocean? Salty air may help with corrosion obviously, however, from the standpoint of a daily driver it would have to be a patina of rust at best.
2) Year of the vehicle? Four wheel disk brakes lead me to believe it is relatively new. Who did any brake work, if any, last? Were they qualified and do they know the proper procedure for installation?
3) Are the brakes working well, or is undue pressure required for stopping?
4) Is this surface rust on both inside and outside rotor surfaces?
Possible answers: If you have semi metalic pads, they can create a rusty dust, however, you would probobly see a coating of this same rusty dust on your wheels. If the "rust" is on both sides of the rotors, this would eliminte the possiblity of frozen calipers, either that or you have not been stopping well at all.
It is unlikely that all 4 of your calipers would be frozen unless someone truly hadn't a clue as to how to install them, and even at that it would almost have to be a deliberate attempt to undermine the way the calipers work.
A visual inspection of the pads (usually done by simply removing a wheel, and even that is not always necessary) will show relatively even wear both inside and outside of the rotor unless the calipers are frozen as you presume. Again highly unlikely all 4 calipers would be frozen.
If the car is stopping well, and if you have even wear, and if the "rust" appears on all rotor surfaces, i would look at semi-metalic pads as the culprit and not concern yourself.
If the car is not stopping well, one remedy is to cut a hole in the drivers side floor, buy a new pair of good boots, and do the modern day Fred Flintstone imitation. I say modern, because Fred didn't wear shoes. I know I am not that tough.
Good luck!
Ed
Thanks for all the information/suggestions.
Ed
The rotors will get surface rust on them in 15 minutes after getting wet... happens all the time, I see it when washing my cars. The calipers squeeze the rotor to stop the car, so I really don't think one caliper is sticking.
I you see it again.... bet if ya back the car out of the driveway and pull it back in and the rust will be gone.
Great car... have fun,
Bill
"If" you see it again...
sigh
Read my test drive impressions on a new '00 Bonnie SE over at the Impala forum...