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Comments
I get like 320 miles per tank, which is about 3-4 days for me, since I commute about 70 miles a day...
This car doesn't have any more controls than any other car with modest options.
Let's see... there's the radio, there's the HVAC controls... there's the window switches... and this little knob must move the mirrors.
Does he drive a stripped down model or something? I'm scratching my head over that one.
Yeah. Why? It saves your brakes from overheating by letting engine compression do the braking.
Thanks
On a serious note, is this where you place your elbow/arm etc? Is this a 'wear' area where something (perhaps shutting the door) rubs against it? Or pressing the dash control buttons?
Its really small little areas right now, but once it starts peeling away, its just grows. I would feel like a putz complaining about something like this .... the VW interior is so nice though that little things like this I notice ..
Oh well, thanks anyway
What about all of the other items on the 20k scheduled maintenance list (dont have it handy). Did you skip these, do yourself, etc ??
BTW I have a Passat, but the engine/powertrain (1.8t) are pretty identical,
Thanks in advance
Just wondering. I live in the very mild Pacific Northwest, and I have no signs of this kind of thing after a year. I wondered if high temperatures might cause it.
If I may assume to increase MPG... you are mistaken. The engine computer does not inject any fuel during decelleraion.... Thus, as has already been mentioned, you are only wearing your brakes more by doing this. In reality, you would be using MORE fuel because the engine must now receive fuel to keep itself idling.
All modern Fuel-injected engine programs do not inject fuel during while in decelleration mode.
Some even "turn on" the alternator during decelleration to improve engine-braking. (they also "turn off" the alternator during acceleration)
Basically, any reasonable "trick" to improve MPG/performance has already been programmed into the ECU. (within the federal emissions laws)
Why would you be braking? Heading to my old place, there is a long slope on the freeway and I'd glide from 85 MPH for about a mile and a half. By the time I reached the slight upslope traffic was always tangled and I'd slide into gear and keep going at about 65. I only did this for about a month and noticed my mileage was increasing - then I moved. If your engine is turning 800 RPM v. 4000 RPM that's gonna impact your efficiency.
All modern Fuel-injected engine programs do not inject fuel during while in decelleration mode.
Some even "turn on" the alternator during decelleration to improve engine-braking. (they also "turn off" the alternator during acceleration)
I think all of us with the 1.8T will atest to the annoying fact that the car does not decellerate at all. If I'm doing 80 and lift off the throttle with the car in gear I'll maintain that speed for an insane amount of time. To the point that I'm forced to use my brakes to slow as the turbo seems to negate normal engine slow-down properties. Driving an NA car I know you can lift off the throttle and slow, but this isn't so from my experience with turbos.
I used to use this big downhill area to set my speed records in my Civic DX. I think I got her up to 130 on that long downhill. That is where I take every car when I want to try out the top speed.
Wheee!
i have seen Cabrios with peeling inside door handles though. of course it is a warranty repair.
Thanks.
If you have an AUTOMATIC tranny... this is most likely the main reason for lack of engine braking.
Even with manual tranny, the emissions programming tends to reduce engine braking. The ECU can open the throttle (IAC) to allow more air to bleed past the TB. Electronically-controlled valvetrains can also be altered by the ECU. (Still the ECU does not inject any fuel at this time.) The ECU controls ALL!
As you surmise... the turbo has some amount of bearing on this phenomina too.
Do not forget that your 1.8T is a PUNY motor and cannot provide much engine braking anyway. Even my 4.7L OHC V8 hemi does not have very much engine-braking. (but the BORLA exhaust sounds great 8-)
BTW, just for kicks (and because I was bored with some time off from work) I drove an 03 Max SE and 03 Altima 3.5SE. The Max was an automatic (bummer) and it was spirited and uber-luxurious but a little to wobbly for me tastes. The 03 Altima 3.5SEwas not horrendous inside (not VW standards but not unlivable) and that 5 speed was notchy but the engine and indie suspension felt like butter. Insanely fun car to drive, though the steering is overboosted.
i am totally confused as to why all of the Cab's i have tested have been soooooo lethargic and unresponsive....
Off topic a little: Has anyone experienced a buzzing or "rattle" in the mid speakers on the rear doors. It seems that mine are rattling more and more. I can push on them and the noise goes away for a couple of seconds, but comes right back. It sounds like a wire is loose or something.
Voc - the crack is beside the point, haha, kidding. i am not kidding when i tell you, this car is much peppier than any of the several Cabrios I drove. i would THINK the Cab would be lighter, with no metal roof and all. one of the wonders of the world i guess...
Mom wouldn't have a turbo. She had bad experiences with them in the 80's, and refuses. As you all know, Mom's don't really change their thinking, no matter how "off" it is....:)
I am bringing my car in sat for the 5K service, but they won't look at rattles on Sat. It is to much of a hassle to bring my car in during the week unless they provide a loaner and I don't want to fight that fight.
Maybe that is because when "engine braking" in a turbo, the extra air going out the exhaust isn't just going out an exhaust, but also pushing a turbo, which in turn pushes more air back into the engine, which, in turn needs more fuel to mix properly.
but again, you could have a speaker issue too. i am just saying that you should check the other panel, just in case.
and you are 100% right - rattles are not worth the fight. especially since they come and go. i am convinced that dealers cause rattles. i am a little afraid of what my dash might do with them replacing switches....:(
I will try pushing above the rear door handle and maybe that will alleviate the rattle.
I have another rattle in the back now, around the rear headrest area. The center dash vent in my car, on the right, broke as well. The part came in, and they are going to replace it when I make the appointment.
I refuse to leave the dealer without a loaner, so it isn't a fight for me. I am going to tell them they can either be nice and gimme one, or I can call VW customer service and make them gimme one. Whichever way they wanna play it.
I test drove a 2.0 wagon about a year ago, and it felt pretty good at around-town speeds. I think if you're the kind of person who accelerates at a leisurely pace in general, you probably wouldn't notice much difference between the 2.0 and 1.8T
If you like some oomph in your car, then you're definitely going to note the difference.