Drove the Shtroumpf (325i) back from Albany, NY to Boston last night and I really enjoyed it even at the end of the work week when I'm a lot more tired. I pushed it to 6,200 RPM's a couple of times. The engine sound turns more aggressive as soon as you cross 6,000 RPM's but it doesn't even hint at being nervous. It felt like it could easily take another 500 or so but I'm very careful with pushing the RPM's up gradually. There was some rental-looking car that tried to run with me at one point and out of a sudden it decelerated very fast and the driver put the emergency lights on. I guess his top speed limiter had just kicked in or he'd blown the engine. I didn't turn on the H-K even once (again) and I just love the growl of the engine. It must be twice as loud as the day when I picked it up from the dealer. The SP seats are so comfy that when I got out of the car, it felt like I could drive another couple of hours without getting too tired. I kept looking at it, even peaking over other cars on the street till I walked into my apartment building with a smile on my face. A beautiful, graceful, fast, growling wild cat that begs to be driven hard. Glad to be at your service, Shtroumpf )
I do not know much about tuner products but are you saying you can improve HP 15% by installing a chip? This is a huge HP increase if applied to a 330i. If my memory is accurate, the Dinan web site only claims 11 HP improvement for their engine software and cold air mods.
If this is solid information (and just an example of my inexperience) what is the cost?
I am going to an authorized K40 dealer on Monday to look at their products and I was wondering if you could tell me a little bit about the setup that you're going with. They are telling me that the price will vary from $525 to $1,250 (they discount from MSRP) depending on the installation. Are you getting the control head and the lights? What are they good for? Are you getting the laser defuser? Thanks.
I would go ahead and order. Placed my order today. Dealer will get into allocation and I should have production # by end of July. It will be September production and October delivery.
Since there is no pricing yet you negotiate a fixed % above invoice.
I got a 330i, [non-permissible content removed] silver, blk. leather, SP, 5spd, bi-xenon, moonroof (HK and indash CD are now std).
I am going to an authorized K40 dealer on Monday to look at their products and I was wondering if you could tell me a little bit about the setup that you're going with. They are telling me that the price will vary from $525 to $1,250 (they discount from MSRP) depending on the installation. Are you getting the control head and the lights? What are they good for? Are you getting the laser defuser? Thanks.
Rental car trying to run with you? Could it be me? I've been driving back and forth between Boston and Enfield CT every day of the week. I'll have to do that for the next 2 months. Course I'm not taking the Bimmer, its a Hertz Taurus that's going to take the punishment. Kidding about running with you though, I take it easy and enjoy the 1hr 45min ride each way, no speeding for me. Traffic has been great on the masspike. I'm thinking of investing in a V1 so I can cruise above 80mph without have to watch out for cruisers.
I am also going to an authorized dealer sometime next week on the K40 and had the same question for the Guru. I will probably get the diffuser but not the overhead control. Will share the definitive price info (Cincinnati area) when I get it.
You should definitely buy a detector of some sort. When I lived in New Hampshire, I received two tickets within 30 days on the Mass Pike. In both cases I was going 75- 80 in a Dodge Caravan. I had lived in CA,PA, and FL prior to NH and never had a problem without a detector. Maybe it is just me but the Mass Pike boys cleaned my clock until I bought the Valentine.
I did read the board at work, but each time I went to post, one of those awkward "customer" types kept interrupting me !! The nerve !
kv007 - Tires and the whole "why the car feels like that" is a some what complex physics equation which I would attempt to answer in person, but not on the board. I just don't have 3-6 hours to make the post, or the 4 hours of preparation prior to the post. It's a function of the following and quite a bit more: Overall weight, engine/tranny weight and where that weight is relative to the rest of the vehicle. The suspension design and which type of design (Incidently, Audi cars (except TT/A3/A2) have multi link FRONT suspension, I think MBZ S class is one of the only others), vehicle's frame's torsional rigidity (usually measured by how many Nm force is needed to bend the frame 5 degrees using opposite corners to apply the force), spring/damper settings and so on and so on. May-be you'll catch me on a day off with nothing better to do, then I'll try to do a "101" class on the basics of what makes a car feel......
K40 gang - I don't know the correct model name for mine. I bought it new last August/September time. I have an external receiver which mounts in the bumper, a volume/city-highway selector that's just a small dial which mounts some where (I've yet to decide in the E46), a small speaker for beeping and two lights - one that goes green or yellow for city or highway, and a red led which comes on when a signal is detected. I previously had a V1 which was totally decent. The only thing I did like was watching the bogey count and where the signal was. I only have the front antennae (figured that's all I really need) and I have got to tell you, I am AT LEAST as happy with the performance of the system. One thing I don't miss, how ever, is that "Yes Mr Highway patrolman, that is a radar detector stuck right there slap bang in my wind shield meaning I like to speed often and try to allude the law so please don't hesitate to write me that ticket which, apparently, I deserve!". Yes, believe it or not, if Mr Policeman sees that note pad/radar detector stuck in your window and you're doing 36 in a 35, get ready to collect your $135 winners fine. I'm reliably told that a visible radar detector really is a sure fire way to guaranty yourself a 15 min trip interruption. Who ever would have guessed that those guys can see things AND know what they're for !!! Just imagine !
How did you get that ?? Been reading bimmer.org late at night ? Had the dealer call NA and request it? Or was it in dealer stock ?? I have that option. It isn't a US option, you'll see it in no sales material. or even on our BMW pricing sheets. Amazing it's only a $300 MSRP ! My absolute favorite thing to do is, when you've got one of those Dr.Jackel road rage types behind trying to share their feelings with you, is to push that button and chuckle to myself as they watch the view into my car suddenly blocked! Oh, apparently people sitting in the back like it when the sun's behind you as well.
The rear shade was a special order. The dealer has to call BMW NA and that was it. To my understanding, don't you work for a dealership on the west coast? It is a special feature in place of tinted rear window.
After driving my car for 1300 miles, I offer the following suggestions to increase customer satisfaction and to improve the overall purchasing/driving experiences.
Owner's Manual
Expand and Improve the Owner's Manual by providing additional information about the automatic climate control. The manual explains the button selection for the "default" automatic climate control. However, the manual fails to explain the alternative settings that are very useful. Sometimes I prefer to drive with fresh air ventilation at a fan rate independent of the temperature. Simply selecting a temperature with the “auto” selector in the “off” position is inadequate for this purpose. With the air recirculation setting on “auto,” the windows “fog” if the humidity factor is high. Also, the direct sunlight on the driver coupled with a dark interior may warrant a higher fan setting than provided by the “default” auto position. I often select the manual settings for the air recirculation, vent control, and “auto” functions to achieve a constant airflow rate in the cabin. This option is not explained in the Owner’s Manual. Rather than providing a running commentary in the current manual, I suggest that each of the different setting combinations e.g. fresh air independent of temperature, standard heat with the flow directed to the feet - should be listed with the corresponding instructions.
Customer Satisfaction Survey Index
Ideally, the customer should be satisfied with the automobile purchase, and there should be a method of encouraging BMW Client Advisors to offer excellent service. I suggest that all customers who place a deposit for a vehicle purchase should be provided with a document that outlines the agreed communication and pre - delivery process. This document should include key notification dates for ordered vehicles e.g. completion of car assembly, date of loading onto the “RoRo,” and anticipated arrival date at the BMW Center. Other items include the key programming options, optional front license plate holder installation, dealer installed options, and preferred methods of communication e.g. e – mail, facsimile, and telephone. Then, the Client Advisor can be fairly evaluated based upon previously defined criteria. The current process, in my opinion, is based too much on guesswork and customer emotions.
Non Standard Ordering Options
Currently, there are non – standard options that are available to US customers if the order code is known. Some examples of these options include cloth seats, alternative paint colors, the European first aid kit, and the electric rear window shade. Many Client Advisors insist that these options are not available to US buyers. I recommend that BMWNA publish a list of “non supported” options that are available for special order. This would enable the purchaser to order a customized vehicle without needing to argue with the Client Advisor about option availability. BMWNA should clearly indicate that these special order options might require additional charges for maintenance and replacement of these items. I suspect that BMWNA does not keep an inventory of cloth seats in the US for replacement purposes.
Radiator Fluid Level
Why did BMWAG design the radiator fluid system without an inspection chamber that can be visualized without removing the radiator cap? Often, I wish to confirm the level of the radiator fluid when the engine is warm such as when refueling the car. Most likely, there is a very good reason for the awkward design that requires the level to be inspected by removing the radiator cap when the vehicle is cold. This should be explained in the manual or changed to offer the benefits of assessing the level without requiring cap removal.
The Radio Manual (Non Harmon Kardon)
The manual is simply inadequate. Some of the buttons are without explanation, and the instructions are too brief. The poorly written radio manual, in my opinion, is a major disappointment. According to the instruction manual, there are eighteen available FM presets. However, the manual does not explain how to access the additional program settings (pushing the “fm” key multiple times).
Owner’s Circle
This should be updated on a real time basis and include the status code. Many customers enjoy following the progress of their order. I realize that a code indicating that a car was returned to the factory may prompt questions. However, posting the status code on the Owner’s Circle would probably decrease the number of calls to BMWNA.
Defensive Driving Options Booklet
I would appreciate a booklet that suggests safe driving tips. This would include general information about vehicle distancing for highway driving, neutral versus first gear at stoplights, cornering suggestions, ideal vehicle positioning when driving on a multi – lane highway road, and recommended seat/steering wheel positions. I find that the car handling characteristics are excellent and lull the driver into a false sense of security.
Defensive Driving Schools
I would like to attend a BMW sponsored defensive driving course. I know that many of these are offered in Canada, but why not the US?
In summary, these are just suggestions that reflect my opinion and may not be shared by others.
Larrylynx mentioned that in order to get to 260,000 miles on his 1987 BMW, he only had to do normal maintenance, replace the steering rack, and rebuild the back end. According to consumer reports, the 3-series reliablity has come WAY up since 1987. Cars have gotten much more complex since 1987, however, especially in the area of electronics. Therefore, is 200K+ easier/same/harder with, say, a 2001 3-series (or any car, since they all are electronically complex)? It seems like with all the electronic complexity, there is much more that can go wrong and be harder to fix, as opposed to older cars where most problems likely to occur were mechanical in nature and easier to fix. Or maybe I don't know what I'm talking about and electronic problems are easy to fix and/or the last thing to go. Any of the mechanically inclined care to comment on this?
Thanks for the 2002 ordering/pricing info. I went to the nearest dealer on Saturday only to be told that price was full sticker - take it or leave it. I left it! Thankfully, Philadelphia has several BMW dealers; hopefully one of them will actually want my money. The fun adventure begins...
If supply & demand are the same there as they are round my way, I wouldn't hold your breath if you're looking for some one to go even $2000 over. Two weeks ago we had 13 325i sedans in stock and for months prior to that, I'd routinely take deals at 15-20k up. Today I have one 325i sedan, one 330i sedan (came in yesterday) and one 330Ci coupe. Everything is sold. Most of the cars coming in are sold. We were flamed on bimmer.org by some whinner who was ticked off when the Internet sales guy emailed him an offer at $2650 over (free floormats, though!). A far cry from a few months ago and likely to remain all the way until the 2002s arrive. I can't see $1000 discount. Even $500 off would be doing well. 2002s should arrive on the east coast in the beginning of October and there'll be many people after ordering one of those cars over the next two and a half months. If any one dealer has looked after you - test driven you and provided generally good service - and you're after a 2002, I think that it might be best just to pay sticker now. Sure you could wait until March time and hope that there's enough supply to save $1000-1500, but is it really worth it? If you lease, the residuals will be highest. Most importantly, if you order now, you should guaranty yourself a September production car. I already have two orders for 325iT wagons which is one or two more cars than I'm likely to get allocated for September build. (both at window).
The guy who runs radartest.com - Craig Petersen - is a well known Valentine 1 hater. So I would take their results with some skepticism. That said, the Passport 8500 is a very good radar and most would admit that its detection capabilities are as good as a V1. Reason I didn't consider it is because (1) It doesn't match my black interior (hey I have a black/black coupe ok!) (2) No directional arrows (3) Plastic casing vs. V1 Magnesium. But if you're not bothered by the above, then the Passport 8500 at $299 is a great buy.
I looking at getting a 325i soon in Steel Blue. I do not want leather, but want a grey interior. Anyone know why the leatherette is not available in grey? Can you special order it? If not, does anyone have an opinion as to whether the black or beige leatherette looks better with the Steel Blue exterior. Thanks.
With all the talk about radar detectors on the site, I feel I should mention that a radar detector is no substitute for the driver's senses. I have not used a radar detector in many years. Here are some of the rules that I go by - similar rules would apply to safe driving as well: 1. Don't "live" in the fast lane. If you need to pass in the fast lane, do it quickly and move back to the right lane. 2. Do not go speeding all by yourself with no "cover" in front of you. Having cars in front of you would alert you when their brake lights come up. 3. Be careful around navy blue, black or maroon-red Tauruses, Crown Victorias, Mustangs, Camaros and other cars in this category. Make sure you can see the driver of these cars before you decide how fast to drive. 4. Visibility of traffic and the road shoulders are key. Don't go too fast if you think there is an area that allows for a police cruiser to set up a speed trap. Slow down for service area and rest areas. It is a safe practice anyhow. Conversely, you can go faster if there are no shoulders where a cop might be waiting. 5. Be especially careful going downhill. Uphill, you can typically go faster, as it is not very likely there would be a speed trap there. Make sure to let off the gas before you reach the top of the hill, though. This is also a safe practice, as you can see more of the road before you resume your speed. 6. Make a habit of looking in your rearview mirror every 10 secs or so. It would make you a better driver AND alert you of police cruisers coming from behind. Always slow down for cars gaining fast on you from behind. At least till you get a good look at them. 7. You are extremely unlikely to be pulled over for speeding in heavy rain, freezing cold or extreme heat. Conversely, you are most likely to be pulled over for speeding on a nice weekend. 8. Be extremely careful at the end of each month when local PD's need to fill up their monthly quotas of traffic violations. They would never admit to doing this and it may vary by region but at least around here in New England, it is widely practiced. 9. Be careful at the beginning of each Spring season. They typically put a lot of new cops on the roads in the beginning of March and if you make it through May, you are a lot more unlikely to get a speeding ticket that year. 10. Know the roads that you drive on. For example, I know the Masspike is a speedtrap and I know the usual spots that unsuspecting drivers are likely to get a ticket. Exercise more caution at such areas, as some drivers are likely to slam on the brakes in front of you.
Too much to keep in mind? It sure is. I suspect there's a lot more that could be added to the list. At any rate, it works much better than a radar detector. See, when you detect the radar signal, you only have a split second to slow down. By the time you hit the brakes, it's usually too late. You might get cited for 85 instead of 90 but the key thing is that it still goes on your insurance record. I also think that having a detectable radar detector does more harm than it is use because you are a lot more likely to get a ticket in situations where the officer might otherwise let it go. Having a K40 may be a good supplement to your senses but the cost is very high. Will let you know what I find out tomorrow at the K40 distributor.
dl7265: You can obey the speed limit all you want. Just stay out of the left lane.
brave1heart: Good common sense ideas for speeding. What do you recommend for those slow people who travel in the left lane and won't let you pass? What about the ones who may be going 65 mph in a 55 mph zone, and because they are moving a little faster than the speed limit, think that they don't have to get out of the way?
Speeding is fun and good as long as you don't get caught and not totally reckless weaving in and out of lanes. I also hate those people who move into the left lane just in front of you when you're cruising along.
I wait patiently for 3-4 secs at a safe distance and if they don't yield (assuming traffic allows them to), I downshift, signal, and pass on the right quickly. Never let emotions get in the way. Negative emotions are the enemy. Just feel lucky that you're not one of these drivers.
Thank you for your insight regarding 2002 pricing. I realize that I'm not exactly in the best negotiating position given that I'm bidding on a model that hasn't even arrived on dealer lots yet. However, it would be nice if some dealership would be willing to give a little "something". We'll find out... Thanks again.
I had a NY City-based friend who drove NY-Vermont according to these rules: NY: 55; Conn: 65, Mass 75; Vermont 85. There was no science in this method whatsoever, but I thought it was amusing.
This may be simplistic advice, but I try to leave 5-10 minutes early, only go 70 or 72 in a 65 zone, and instead of "Sprint PCS" popping up on my cell phone, I programmed "Drive Slowly" (not that i use it while driving..) It's just a constant reminder that driving fast is basically the number one cause of accidents.
Also, i had a nurse friend down in Tennessee when i lived there and she worked the emerg. room. She stated flat out that: MEN - in there 20's and 30's - DRIVING TOO FAST - and WITHOUT THEIR SEATBELTS - were BY FAR the most common sight regarding auto accidents.
I guess i'm preacing a bit now, but with my wedding in august and (hopefully) delivery of a 330xi soon after, i'd rather leave 5 min early and keep it slow.
Any insight would be appreciated. Ordered a 325xi in mid-June. Originally scheduled for week 27 production. Postponed to week 33, now week 35 (last week of August and I believe 2001 production). I have a production number. Order has Priority 1 and current status of 112. Would a car have status 112 and not be produced for 7 weeks? Should I just wait now for a 2002? Car ordered from Classic BMW in Turnersville NJ. Is Topaz Blue, Grey Lthr, SP, Step, FoldDown Rear Seats, In dash CD, AWD.
I would appreciate any/all of you letting me know why you decided to finance or lease your car? What was the deciding factor? Miles..cost..etc? Thanks and hope everyone had a nice weekend.
Contrary to popular belief, driving fast is NOT the number one cause of accidents. Running red lights is. C&D did a study of relaxing the speed limits in the past 25 years and found out that there was no correlation whatsoever between speed limit and the number of fatal crashes. These rarely occur on wide-open roads. I am surprised to hear some of you BMW fans coming up with statements that speeding kills. Listening to too much insurance companies propaganda? It's OK to go fast on wide open roads; it's not OK to go fast in a densely populated area. A good driver is an alert driver that is aware of the traffic and surroundings. I drive over the speed limit 95% of the time on wide-open roads and I have never caused an accident in 15 years of driving. I'm not advocating that you do the same but in case you do, it would be a safe practice to follow some of the common sense rules that I listed above.
... on limited access highways are enforced for the primary purpose of generating revenue- a velocity tax, if you will. Note that all accumulated interstate data shows that the death rate per million miles traveled continues to drop while average speeds have increased. Note that I am NOT defending speeding on urban/suburban surface streets or school zones and the like. That said, I would add a few things to the excellent advice already given: 1.Always be the SECOND fastest car out there; let a "rabbit" ahead soak up all the microwave/laser energy. 2.Red w/spoilers=ticket magnet. My Riviera Blue Bavaria, Black M6, and Aspen Silver 528i never garnered one-tenth the attention(read: instant-on hits and citations)that my Cinnabar Red 535is and Bright Red 318ti Club Sport have received. A New Hampshire Stormtrooper once picked a friend's Cinnabar E30 M3 out of the middle of a line of ten cars and charged him with 18 over. The officer clicked his jackboots and swore up and down that the M3 was going faster than anyone els...Jawohl!!! Take this into account if you plan to be a "professional speeder" as the Safety [non-permissible content removed] refers to those who want to travel at realistic speeds.
What do all of you think is a reasonable speed limit (interstate)? I think 85 at least. 55 or even 65 feels way too low. Understand this is for ideal driving conditions including lower traffic times and assuming people don't tack on the usual + 10mph. This also doesn't mean you are required to go that fast. If it is too much for you then drive to the right.
How much is the typical cushion the cops give? +10mph? If you pass a trap at + 11 will they pull you over? what about +9. I hear exceptional stories but what's the general rule. If I set the cruise, it's at +10.
Years back, I had an old VW and the owners manual indicated that after running the car w/AC on, I should let the car run for ~ 1 minute w/ AC off before I turn off the car and let it warm up b/4 you turn the AC on. Does this still apply?
Nice photo of the car. Is that black? The car looks beautiful. The lines of the coupe are tough to beat. It's just about the perfect design, IMHO. Suggestions for names (combination of power & beauty is key here): Selena ("Selena Kyle" was Catwoman's real name--sleek and black--and "Lena" is of course my 325Ci). Catherine or "Cat".
You must be in heaven just like me. BTW, no problems since last week. I'm thinking it was the gas. I did put in 92+ octane, but I filled up at one of those "cheap" stations. My brother just told me that his friend did the same and ended up w/ half a tank of water. It completely ruined his engine. Now, I only fill up at Mobil and Exxon.
In most of Europe, the speed limit on the interstate is 130 km/h (about 81 mph). Highways there are predominantly 2 lanes each way and traffic is dense. I figure 80-85 mph on interstates in the U.S. would be very reasonable and no speed limit in some areas, just like the autobahn. If this ever happens, it should be coupled with additional driver education, tougher driving tests, and more limited driving times for teenagers (daylight only).
80-85 makes sense to me, with a 5 mph "cushion". Make the minimum speed 55 with the same standard. Make blocking the left lane as serious an offense(same points and fines)as reckless driving. Ditto for failing to signal.
5 mph "cushion" is reasonable. They use 10 km over the speed limit in most of Europe, which would be about the same (~6 mph). Agree with all your suggestions.
Yep, cheap gas would do it to you. I always stick to Mobil, Shell or Sunoco if the above two are not immediately available. I guess it would vary by region - I remember Texaco was very nice down South.
Comments
do you think its more the bulk of the car itself or do you think the width of the tires do make a difference?
need a little tire lesson!
If this is solid information (and just an example of my inexperience) what is the cost?
Thanks
Since there is no pricing yet you negotiate a fixed % above invoice.
I got a 330i, [non-permissible content removed] silver, blk. leather, SP, 5spd, bi-xenon, moonroof (HK and indash CD are now std).
My dealer required no deposit at all.
kv007 - Tires and the whole "why the car feels like that" is a some what complex physics equation which I would attempt to answer in person, but not on the board. I just don't have 3-6 hours to make the post, or the 4 hours of preparation prior to the post. It's a function of the following and quite a bit more:
Overall weight, engine/tranny weight and where that weight is relative to the rest of the vehicle. The suspension design and which type of design (Incidently, Audi cars (except TT/A3/A2) have multi link FRONT suspension, I think MBZ S class is one of the only others), vehicle's frame's torsional rigidity (usually measured by how many Nm force is needed to bend the frame 5 degrees using opposite corners to apply the force), spring/damper settings and so on and so on. May-be you'll catch me on a day off with nothing better to do, then I'll try to do a "101" class on the basics of what makes a car feel......
K40 gang - I don't know the correct model name for mine. I bought it new last August/September time. I have an external receiver which mounts in the bumper, a volume/city-highway selector that's just a small dial which mounts some where (I've yet to decide in the E46), a small speaker for beeping and two lights - one that goes green or yellow for city or highway, and a red led which comes on when a signal is detected. I previously had a V1 which was totally decent. The only thing I did like was watching the bogey count and where the signal was. I only have the front antennae (figured that's all I really need) and I have got to tell you, I am AT LEAST as happy with the performance of the system. One thing I don't miss, how ever, is that "Yes Mr Highway patrolman, that is a radar detector stuck right there slap bang in my wind shield meaning I like to speed often and try to allude the law so please don't hesitate to write me that ticket which, apparently, I deserve!". Yes, believe it or not, if Mr Policeman sees that note pad/radar detector stuck in your window and you're doing 36 in a 35, get ready to collect your $135 winners fine. I'm reliably told that a visible radar detector really is a sure fire way to guaranty yourself a 15 min trip interruption. Who ever would have guessed that those guys can see things AND know what they're for !!! Just imagine !
Smooth power delivery and strong brakes.
One day of driving of over 110 miles. What a trip!
330i: 5-sp, SP, PP, CD, heated seats & rear shade
It is a special feature in place of tinted rear window.
Owner's Manual
Expand and Improve the Owner's Manual by providing additional information about the automatic climate control. The manual explains the button selection for the "default" automatic climate control. However, the manual fails to explain the alternative settings that are very useful. Sometimes I prefer to drive with fresh air ventilation at a fan rate independent of the temperature. Simply selecting a temperature with the “auto” selector in the “off” position is inadequate for this purpose. With the air recirculation setting on “auto,” the windows “fog” if the humidity factor is high. Also, the direct sunlight on the driver coupled with a dark interior may warrant a higher fan setting than provided by the “default” auto position. I often select the manual settings for the air recirculation, vent control, and “auto” functions to achieve a constant airflow rate in the cabin. This option is not explained in the Owner’s Manual. Rather than providing a running commentary in the current manual, I suggest that each of the different setting combinations e.g. fresh air independent of temperature, standard heat with the flow directed to the feet - should be listed with the corresponding instructions.
Customer Satisfaction Survey Index
Ideally, the customer should be satisfied with the automobile purchase, and there should be a method of encouraging BMW Client Advisors to offer excellent service. I suggest that all customers who place a deposit for a vehicle purchase should be provided with a document that outlines the agreed communication and pre - delivery process. This document should include key notification dates for ordered vehicles e.g. completion of car assembly, date of loading onto the “RoRo,” and anticipated arrival date at the BMW Center. Other items include the key programming options, optional front license plate holder installation, dealer installed options, and preferred methods of communication e.g. e – mail, facsimile, and telephone. Then, the Client Advisor can be fairly evaluated based upon previously defined criteria. The current process, in my opinion, is based too much on guesswork and customer emotions.
Non Standard Ordering Options
Currently, there are non – standard options that are available to US customers if the order code is known. Some examples of these options include cloth seats, alternative paint colors, the European first aid kit, and the electric rear window shade. Many Client Advisors insist that these options are not available to US buyers. I recommend that BMWNA publish a list of “non supported” options that are available for special order. This would enable the purchaser to order a customized vehicle without needing to argue with the Client Advisor about option availability. BMWNA should clearly indicate that these special order options might require additional charges for maintenance and replacement of these items. I suspect that BMWNA does not keep an inventory of cloth seats in the US for replacement purposes.
Radiator Fluid Level
Why did BMWAG design the radiator fluid system without an inspection chamber that can be visualized without removing the radiator cap? Often, I wish to confirm the level of the radiator fluid when the engine is warm such as when refueling the car. Most likely, there is a very good reason for the awkward design that requires the level to be inspected by removing the radiator cap when the vehicle is cold. This should be explained in the manual or changed to offer the benefits of assessing the level without requiring cap removal.
The Radio Manual (Non Harmon Kardon)
The manual is simply inadequate. Some of the buttons are without explanation, and the instructions are too brief. The poorly written radio manual, in my opinion, is a major disappointment. According to the instruction manual, there are eighteen available FM presets. However, the manual does not explain how to access the additional program settings (pushing the “fm” key multiple times).
Owner’s Circle
This should be updated on a real time basis and include the status code. Many customers enjoy following the progress of their order. I realize that a code indicating that a car was returned to the factory may prompt questions. However, posting the status code on the Owner’s Circle would probably decrease the number of calls to BMWNA.
Defensive Driving Options Booklet
I would appreciate a booklet that suggests safe driving tips. This would include general information about vehicle distancing for highway driving, neutral versus first gear at stoplights, cornering suggestions, ideal vehicle positioning when driving on a multi – lane highway road, and recommended seat/steering wheel positions. I find that the car handling characteristics are excellent and lull the driver into a false sense of security.
Defensive Driving Schools
I would like to attend a BMW sponsored defensive driving course. I know that many of these are offered in Canada, but why not the US?
In summary, these are just suggestions that reflect my opinion and may not be shared by others.
Gurumike – any thoughts?
jnscheong
Hope this helps. (?!)
Some review say its better than V1, and k40
www.radartest.com
Josh
1. Don't "live" in the fast lane. If you need to pass in the fast lane, do it quickly and move back to the right lane.
2. Do not go speeding all by yourself with no "cover" in front of you. Having cars in front of you would alert you when their brake lights come up.
3. Be careful around navy blue, black or maroon-red Tauruses, Crown Victorias, Mustangs, Camaros and other cars in this category. Make sure you can see the driver of these cars before you decide how fast to drive.
4. Visibility of traffic and the road shoulders are key. Don't go too fast if you think there is an area that allows for a police cruiser to set up a speed trap. Slow down for service area and rest areas. It is a safe practice anyhow. Conversely, you can go faster if there are no shoulders where a cop might be waiting.
5. Be especially careful going downhill. Uphill, you can typically go faster, as it is not very likely there would be a speed trap there. Make sure to let off the gas before you reach the top of the hill, though. This is also a safe practice, as you can see more of the road before you resume your speed.
6. Make a habit of looking in your rearview mirror every 10 secs or so. It would make you a better driver AND alert you of police cruisers coming from behind. Always slow down for cars gaining fast on you from behind. At least till you get a good look at them.
7. You are extremely unlikely to be pulled over for speeding in heavy rain, freezing cold or extreme heat. Conversely, you are most likely to be pulled over for speeding on a nice weekend.
8. Be extremely careful at the end of each month when local PD's need to fill up their monthly quotas of traffic violations. They would never admit to doing this and it may vary by region but at least around here in New England, it is widely practiced.
9. Be careful at the beginning of each Spring season. They typically put a lot of new cops on the roads in the beginning of March and if you make it through May, you are a lot more unlikely to get a speeding ticket that year.
10. Know the roads that you drive on. For example, I know the Masspike is a speedtrap and I know the usual spots that unsuspecting drivers are likely to get a ticket. Exercise more caution at such areas, as some drivers are likely to slam on the brakes in front of you.
Too much to keep in mind? It sure is. I suspect there's a lot more that could be added to the list. At any rate, it works much better than a radar detector. See, when you detect the radar signal, you only have a split second to slow down. By the time you hit the brakes, it's usually too late. You might get cited for 85 instead of 90 but the key thing is that it still goes on your insurance record. I also think that having a detectable radar detector does more harm than it is use because you are a lot more likely to get a ticket in situations where the officer might otherwise let it go. Having a K40 may be a good supplement to your senses but the cost is very high. Will let you know what I find out tomorrow at the K40 distributor.
1.Obey the speed limit.
Regards,
DL
brave1heart: Good common sense ideas for speeding. What do you recommend for those slow people who travel in the left lane and won't let you pass? What about the ones who may be going 65 mph in a 55 mph zone, and because they are moving a little faster than the speed limit, think that they don't have to get out of the way?
Speeding is fun and good as long as you don't get caught and not totally reckless weaving in and out of lanes. I also hate those people who move into the left lane just in front of you when you're cruising along.
I hate slow drivers.
Regards,
DL
This may be simplistic advice, but I try to leave 5-10 minutes early, only go 70 or 72 in a 65 zone, and instead of "Sprint PCS" popping up on my cell phone, I programmed "Drive Slowly" (not that i use it while driving..) It's just a constant reminder that driving fast is basically the number one cause of accidents.
Also, i had a nurse friend down in Tennessee when i lived there and she worked the emerg. room. She stated flat out that: MEN - in there 20's and 30's - DRIVING TOO FAST - and WITHOUT THEIR SEATBELTS - were BY FAR the most common sight regarding auto accidents.
I guess i'm preacing a bit now, but with my wedding in august and (hopefully) delivery of a 330xi soon after, i'd rather leave 5 min early and keep it slow.
Car ordered from Classic BMW in Turnersville NJ. Is Topaz Blue, Grey Lthr, SP, Step, FoldDown Rear Seats, In dash CD, AWD.
That said, I would add a few things to the excellent advice already given:
1.Always be the SECOND fastest car out there; let a "rabbit" ahead soak up all the microwave/laser energy.
2.Red w/spoilers=ticket magnet. My Riviera Blue Bavaria, Black M6, and Aspen Silver 528i never garnered one-tenth the attention(read: instant-on hits and citations)that my Cinnabar Red 535is and Bright Red 318ti Club Sport have received. A New Hampshire Stormtrooper once picked a friend's Cinnabar E30 M3 out of the middle of a line of ten cars and charged him with 18 over. The officer clicked his jackboots and swore up and down that the M3 was going faster than anyone els...Jawohl!!! Take this into account if you plan to be a "professional speeder" as the Safety [non-permissible content removed] refers to those who want to travel at realistic speeds.
How much is the typical cushion the cops give? +10mph? If you pass a trap at + 11 will they pull you over? what about +9. I hear exceptional stories but what's the general rule. If I set the cruise, it's at +10.
Brave: great tips. I follow most.
DRCR
Note: My VW was a 1978
drcr
You must be in heaven just like me. BTW, no problems since last week. I'm thinking it was the gas. I did put in 92+ octane, but I filled up at one of those "cheap" stations. My brother just told me that his friend did the same and ended up w/ half a tank of water. It completely ruined his engine. Now, I only fill up at Mobil and Exxon.