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Comments
Any opinions?
Also: I've noticed that the paint scratches and chips very easily - I read somewhere that BMW, MB and others use an environment friendly paint that is less durable. True? If so, does Zaino help?
seat covers or .......? for black ette. I've got a loaner with black ette and it's a killer in this heat.
Anyone used this "leather in a bottle" claims on the site that you can use it on vinyl seats and get that leather smell???
Don't trade in your V1. The real beauty of the V1 lies in the counter and directional arrows. V1 has a good ad on the back of the Roundel. It's advertising but it does give a graphic example of why the counter and arrows give an advantage. For me, when I didn't have this info, I tended to ignore alarms or even turn off the detector because I couldn't tell what I needed to pay attention to and what I didn't. With the V1, I have enough info to decide. It's saved me many times and is well worth the money. I highly recommend hardwiring it. I makes the whole thing more convenient. Also, if you live in an area where the cops have done away with X band radar, turn off the X band detection. There are directions at the Valentine web site. Most false alarms come from alarms systems that use X band. If you can safely turn it off, you'll nearly eliminate false alarms.
Jason: You need to really give the throttle a good blip downshifting from 3rd to 2nd. There's a big difference between those gears.
Yes. The paint they use is environmentally friendly, water-based and is less durable. Of course, with the clear coat and any good wax/polymer layer will protect the paint, I assume. I'm anxoius to see how this Zaino stuff works out. I'd like to give it a really good base layer more for protection than show. Good luck and hopefully someday, I will provide some pics...
reubencahn,
Sorry...can you describe what a "good blip" is? That is, where should I be on the tac when I attempt it?
But I'm sure it will be worth it.
Looking forward to lots of elbow grease this weekend.
Downshifting - do not get discouraged. It takes some time. Using a bit more gas is a good tip. For all my bragging, I've also done the gear-grinding thing a couple of times. As far as downshifting, if your body leaps forward due to inertia, you are abruptly downshifting into an RPM level that is too high for that gear. 3-rd to 2-nd is toughest, I agree, and I give it a little gas in between gears sometimes to match the revs better. So here's how it goes (example):
1. You are in 3-rd at 3K
2. Clutch
3. Put it in neutral
4. Tap on the gas for a split second till you hit 3-4K
5.Then put it in 2-nd
6. Quickly release clutch and step on the gas at the same time at about the same rate.
If you downshift into lower RPM's than that (like 2K going to 3K RPM's), you don't necessarily need to do this. Keep practicing - it will all come together in a couple of days and you will be very proud of yourself. There is nothing embarrassing about learning - it wins my respect.
While I was there, I saw a brand new Porsche Boxster, pretty much totalled. Apparently, the dealer called the purchaser to come pick it up and she was in the office filling out paperwork. The salesman took it out to "gas it up" and wrapped it around a tree. I've got some pics of it, and if I can figure out how to post them here, I will. Unbelievable!
Anyway, I'd like to try the Zaino products, since I've got a black car, and it's impossible to keep clean. Just curious...why do they require you to print off an order form and send in a check? It seems to me that if they are saavy enough to have a website, they could/should have web order capabilities and should accept credit cards. That would significantly speed up delivery.
Thoughts anyone?
I say, "kudos".
He also prefers, but doesn't require, obviously, that people go through his local distributors. If you email him, he'll let you know who the closest distributor.
DDB
That said, I agree with deepdarkblu that there are far too many silver 3 series out there and steel-gray or steel-blue might be a better choice if you're looking to separate yourself from the crowd. I have Topaz (which is beautiful), but if I were to do it over, would probably get one of those two colors since they would be easier to keep clean.
The old bromide about silver fading prematurely must be 15-20 years ago, anyway. Even then, I never heard of it happening on ANY car that had been properly cared for...only when the owner decided that it could be endlessly parked outside [especially in the sun] with no protection and no regular care. Do that to any car, in any color, today or yesterday, and you'll eventually manage to kill the paint. I did know of problems early on when the water-based paints were first introduced - everybody had troubles, imports and domestics alike. As usual, the worst were GM, but for awhile there, nobody could get it quite right. Now, the universal complaint [and I do mean universal - every forum board is filled with owners who think it only applies to their particual make, be it MB, BMW, Honda, Toyota, you-name-it] is the relative brittleness of the water-based paints. Lots of chipping, especially on bumpers, that old-times claim never happened with oil-based enamels. Well, my memory is that every car I've ever owned, back to 1962, would chip if you threw a rock at it...the real culprits are the volume of traffic these days and the state of American roads, which tends toward lousy. It's hard to drive any distance these days in urbanized areas without having "stuff" kicked in your car's face.
Hope this helps.
http://www.edmunds.com/ownership/howto/articles/45792/article.html
resipsa32 - If your dealer said they can do it for $1600 INCLUDING installation, that actually would be a REALLY good deal ! I would guess that $1,850 would be their cost on the whole lot, including the voice recognition module.
jrct9454 - I second your thoughts on silver (or any other) paint and it's deterioration.
pal12 - A small but noticeable clunk, or up to 3 clunks if you hear them, is normal. As long as it's an AWD, it is normal to experience this characteristic. It's drive line shunt or take-up. Due to the nature of how an AWD system works, having three differentials all joined together that all need to turn at slightly different rates during normal driving requires that a small amount of play exist in these units. As the vehicle moves away and engine power travels through to gear box, each differentials input shaft "catches up" to the cogs "take point". Literally, if you got under the car and grabbed either of the drive shafts, you'd feel a little play in each direction if you twisted it. When you slow down, the input shafts "move" to the other side and as you move off again, you hear that clunk as each shaft
"takes". The third one, so to speak, you can't see. It's the one from the back of the 'box into the center diff. RWD versions don't do it. Having said that, over time a tiny amount of ware occurs which would be enough to have a similar effect.
Top ten for all European Cars: Silver/Gray(32%), White(15%), Blue Met.(13%), Black(13%), Red Met.(8%), Green(8%), Blue solid(4%), Red solid(3%), Brown(1%), Yellow(1%).
Unboringuy, my car is Jet Black too. Whew! Looks bad when dirty, looks great when clean. I sent in my order today to Zaino for Z1 and Z2. I like Lexol for the leather and 3M Hand Glaze for a swirl remover. I've read enough about Zaino, so I guess it's time to try it.
My car is black sapphire metallic with the sport and premium pkgs. What a fun car to drive!!
Second, I notice that there is slight hesitation when I start the car first time in the morning. The engine doesnt turn on smoothly. Is that normal too ?
My part numbers were:
Changer 82110026418
Install Kit 82110020834
Trim Panel number depends on upholstery color
Just be sure to double-check these numbers for your 330i. Remember, I have a 2000 323 wagon, which could be different.
Also note that the information I'm giving you applies only if you DON'T have the in-dash single CD or the Navigation System. Let me know if you need more help.
Leather - Lexol
Plastic - Vinylex (anything better??)
Wheels - Mothers (Does anyone recommend a particular product?)
Paint - Zaino.......Is this correct for minimum care.....Dawn wash, Z-7, Z-1, Z-2, Z-6??? Question....is dawn safe (assuming clear coat paint)? After washing with dawn, do you wash with Z-7 before applying Z-1, and Z-2? or is Z-7 for subsequent washes?
Any comments would be appreciated or if better products are known, please inform us all!
You can actually do ALL shifting without the clutch (except launching from a standstill, of course). It's just a matter of matching revs. For example:
Say you are accelerating leisurely and want to upshift from 3rd to 4th. While in third at equilibrium (neither accelerating nor decelerating), the shifter will very easily slip out of gear and into neutral, because there's no acc/dec forces on the driveline. When this happens, let off the gas, allowing the revs to drop. As the revs drop, apply some pressure into 4th gear's slot -- when the revs match, the gear lever will easily slip into 4th. No clutch necessary! Anytime gears are turning at the same rate, the cogs between them can easily slip back and forth. It's the RELATIVE angular velocity difference between the gears that causes grinding. Same angular speed = no grinding. That's what synchros help ensure -- synchronization of the gears' angular velocities. You can apply the above to any scenario, whether up- or down-shifting, as long as the revs are matched appropriately.
Again, DO NOT try this on your new Bimmers, as this technique increases the likelihood of gear grinding and potential damage. Get your hands on a '93 Civic (or rough equivalent) manual and try it out! It's a neat way to experience exactly what the clutch/synchros actually do, mechanically, on a firsthand basis.
Hah! I never tried that with my '90 Civic HB....wish I did at least once to experience it. Man, I actually missed that lil' college beater....never had to worry about the tranny on that one.
Does anyone depress the clutch all the way down when shifting...I'm sure most can usually feel where it is safely disengaged....but, sometimes, I get in a habit of "coasting" as I'm braking which I know is not very efficient...this is why I asked about the downshifting techniques....
J330 re: Zaino - you are correct in the order of product use. You need to use the Z7 before the Z1/Z2 wash to get rid of any detergent residue left by Dawn. You only need to use Dawn once for the initial washing to get rid of any wax or other stuff that was on the car to begin with. Even tho' my car was brand new when I did the first treatment, I used the clay bar. I was surprised to see dirt, etc. coming off on the bar. The paint was super smooth after claying, which I think added to the great finish I have now.
It pays to do your homework. This site has been extremely helpful; from the first stages of negotiating a new car to the last one in taking ownership. This poster is grateful for all the assistance SHE'S received
How does it compare to other fields of design: appliances, furniture, household gadgets, graphic design...
What about other European movements? (I'm not talking about Ikea here)
Exterior cleaning - I've decided to go with Carnauba wax (probably the one that you can pick up at the dealer). Zaino is overkill IMO and it makes the car look much shinier but I think that wax actually makes the metallic colors in the paint stand out more and is less glossy overall. Just a personal preference.
German design - unimpressive outside of the automotive world. Italian and French design typically win me over as far as European products.
Jason.
Now let me pose another question to you and all other reader. What is your opinion in covering the leather seats with custom made clothe fabric during the summer, so I do not get 3rd degree burns on my buns. Would that damage the seat?
Appreciate your input.
Any opinion is appreciated. Thanks.