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Comments
Model: 2001 325i
Your thoughts?
1. No manual seats come with the lumbar support on US Models. (In reality BMW does offer power lumbar as a standalone option on all seats in Europe. There is a slight chance that you could special order this). It costs about $150 as a standalone if you could get it (doubtful).
2. Power seats (both sport and regular) on the 325i or 330i w/o premium pkg do not come with lumbar
3. All 330i w/ premium pkg come with lumbar. If you combine the premium package and sport package you will get a power seats with lumbar support. In the US, this is the only way to get lumbar support from the factory. Stupid, but true.
I have a 325i w/ manual sport seats and no adjustable lumbar. The built-in lower back support feels perfectly adequate. I've owned Volvo's and Saabs before with manually adjustable lumbar and have appreciated it- but the seats in the BMW are fine without it. My father has a 740i w/ power lumbar regular seats and I actually find them too hard- unless you deflate the lumbar completely.
The other possibility is a bad thermostat-- supposedly this can trigger the Check ENgine light-- you would also notice that the car will take a while to get up to temperature (if ever). Watch the temp guage to make sure you're car isn't running too hot or cold-- it should be pegged in the middle after about 4 minutes of driving. This was a common problem w/ 2000 models and some 2001. WHen was your car built?
DanF
More than $1000 for some cosmetic bells and whistles was not happening with me, especially when I was already spending over $38K on the car. I got the PP, CD, CWP, etc... all the neat extras EXCEPT the SP and Xenons. I just found these to be pointless extra $$ down the drain.
question... has anyone used the gauge kit from easter motor werks (the one with the oil distribution block, rather than sensors on the plug)?
-Chris
Feel the same. Since getting them on my S4, it will be one of the first options I select. Can see a big difference when I drive the other cars in the garage that do not have them.
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD
Let me try the Ferrari/BMW engine thing again: I think the article meant that these are the only two engine manufacturers that did NOT have to go outside of their company to build their own F-1 engines. When BMW decided to re-enter F-1, they determined that they had all the capabilities to build the engine in-house, as in not having to buy any tuner to do that. Does that sound right?
The first is the fuse, is this extra just incase one blows?
The second is the prestole cage. It is threaded piece of metal about 0.5" x 0.2" squared. What is this use for? I looked at the installation instruction on circle, but could not determine this. It is probably the cage nut that was mention at e46fanatics website. What or how is this cage nut used in the installation of the alarm? anyone?
First off, for two cars that are built off an identical platform, they really do have a distinctly different character, one of the benefits of the 3-Series as opposed to something like an IS300.
Visual differences:
Stroumpf, with her dark blue paint, shadow line trim and larger wheels/lower profile tires, makes my 328i look downright pedestrian. I do not think that color of blue was available when I ordered my car, I most likely would have ordered it if it had been.
The interiors are vastly different, my 328i, with its Sand leather and Myrtle wood trim are far less sporty looking than Black ‘ette and Black gloss trim, I like them both, a lot. The first thing I noticed was the steering wheel on Stroumpf, it is MUCH nicer than the one in my 328i, however, I think that the 2001 Sport Steering Wheel is quite a bit different than the one that came on the 1999 models, which, as it turned out, I did not like at all. So, either my tastes have changed, or the wheel has changed, or maybe a little of both.
The manually adjusted seats on Stroumpf have more/different controls when compared to the power/memory seats on my 328i. Setting up the seat takes a little time to get right, but it feels VERY nice when you do. Given that I valet park at least once a week in NYC, I HATE when the garage attendants mess with MY seat settings (which they seem to do at least 75% of the time). Having said that, one of the MUST HAVE features on my latest (and hopefully all future) car(s) was the power memory seats. If I get the SP on my next car, with the extra adjustability that the seats have, the Power/Memory option becomes even more imperative.
The remaining interior differences are basically cosmetic, I noticed that the Recirculate button on Stroumpf has two icons and lights, mine has one of each. I also noticed that the icons on the moonroof button are different. Last but not least, I noticed that the display on the sound system will show the time if you turn the system off on Stroumpf, however, when mine is off, it is ALL off.
Driving:
Good news, the first item that I noticed was NOT how light the steering felt, it WAS how light the shifter felt (the 323i SP that I test drove back in 1999 was an automatic). I was surprised at how much easer the 325i tranny (Getrag) was to shift compared to my 328i (ZF). As for the steering, Brave1heart has had the steering retro-fit applied to Stroumpf, and if I think about it, it is a little lighter, but no less communicative than the original E46 steering in my 328i. For me, that would be no showstopper when shopping for my next car.
On the road, I did notice that Stroumpf was a little less powerful in any given gear when compared to my 328i, however, given the stats (listed below), Stroumpf gives a great accounting of herself, and begs to be revved when compared to the longer stroke 328i engine.
1999 328i -- Weight: 3197 -- HP: 193@5500 -- Torque: 206@3500
2001 325i -- Weight: 3241 -- HP: 184@6000 -- Torque: 175@3500
In the twisties, Stroumpf was in her element, with the hunkered down suspension, stiffer roll bars and lower profile/stickier tires, she felt positively connected to the road. My 328i, while no slouch, seems to have just a slight lag while the higher profile tires bite and the body rolls, it is subtle, but it is there when compared to Stroumf. Given the quality of the roads here in the NYC area, I am still glad that I did not get the SP, however, it sure is fun to drive an E46 with it just the same.
Another item that surprised me was the “Engine Growl”, I am not quite sure why, but Stroumpf exhibits her wonderful Growl MUCH more frequently than my 328i. In my car, unless you are accelerating full-tilt-boogie up a freeway ramp, the engine growl is all but absent, even then, it is a decidedly different note, Stroumpf has a MUCH sexier voice.
Miscellaneous:
Brave immediately noticed that the keys for our cars are different, mine is just a hunk of rubber on the end of the key shaft with three softer rubber buttons, the key for Stroumpf, on the other hand, is a stylized plastic end with a nice looking Roundel in the middle.
Door handles, what a weird thing to change. On my 328i, the door handles pull straight out from the body of the car, on Stroumpf, the door handles pull out AND arc up. Why the change?
Summary Part 1:
All in all this has been a fun experiment so far, stay tuned for further reports.
Best Regards,
Shipo
Best Regards,
Shipo
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD
In the 325i- at highway speeds with your foot lightly on the pedal (to maintain even speed) did you notice a whistling noise. I have this noise on mine that drives me crazy-- it only happens above 60mph and only w/ light throttle. Almost sound like it could be the air being forced into a narrow opening and therefore whistling. If I give it more throttle, the nice deep engine sound returns.
Also was wondering how to have the dealer program the alarm/disarm feature, i.e., "remote only" or "remote and using the key in the door"
As far as the other piece... if you go to the this link:
http://www.circlebmw.com/service/access/01219416538.htm
you will find the eom instructions where they talk about having to drill out your bracket if this piece was missing in the firewall.
I also have this piece and the extra fuse.
Do you see the picture where they show the firewall at the point where the bracket goes... I believe this piece would be needed if they forgot to install it?
I will be doing the job tomorrow so I guess I will find out.
As for your noise, is it coming from the engine compartment or is it from elsewhere on the car body? If in the engine compartment, you might want to buy a cheap MicroCassette Recorder (I have seen Panasonic and Aiwa units in the low to mid twenty dollar range) and "duct tape" it in various places in the engine compartment, driving the car to the point where you hear the noise between each relocation of the recorder. That should help you localize the whistle, which should then help find the source.
Best Regards,
Shipo
I did not use it, didn't know what it's for, might be a spare. Anyone knows???
Square metal with thread
The hole on firewall is square, this piece fits into that hole then the bracket is threaded on it. You will understand what I am talking about after seeing the mounting area
I noticed that you've posted a comparison and I am posting this before I've read your post. I want to be as unbiased as possible so I am posting the e-mail that I sent you this morning without editing. I am going to read your comments right after this post.
***
Thank you for giving me your car this morning. I am well on my way to Mexico and will be crossing the border in a few minutes. I should've told you that the Orient Blue 325i I presented to you this morning was stolen but I figured you'd find that out pretty soon when the cops get on your tail. I hope to be able to retire in Puerto Vallarta with the money I will get for your car
Hey, I'm very happy that we were able pulled this off - I hope you are enjoying my car. First impressions on your 328:
- the steering feels noticeably lighter than the 325's. I was very surprised - we should probably drive them back to back tomorrow night for better feel.
- the 328 pulls a little faster at any speed and the biggest difference is probably in the lower RPM's - due to the 35 lb/ft torque advantage undoubtedly. It also seems to hesitate a little below 3K but it pulls faster once it gets its act together. It has a lot of mid-range punch and I noticed I didn't have to downshift nearly as much
- the engine sound is more muted - I can almost tell what gear I am in when driving the 325 by the engine note (growl)
- the sport pack make a huge difference in cornering IMO - let's see if you'll feel the same way about it. Please, do NOT be afraid to push it very hard in turns when it's dry - it loves that kind of work
- the seats are pretty comfortable but I feel like I'm sitting ON them instead of sitting IN them.
- is the clutch a little lighter or it is just me???
- the brakes kick in at a later point than my 325's - maybe because the pads are a little worn out at 32K miles??
- fuel consumption blows my mind - I can get 30 mpg with the 328 while my 325 gets about 23 when driven the same way. Any ideas?
- the 328 feels very solid - no rattles or clicking noises whatsoever!!! You will notice a persistent rattle from the 325's B-pillar on bad roads. It comes from the roof panel right above the seat belt anchor. I am having it fixed in two weeks.
I hope you're having a good day. I am taking the car out for a spin during my lunch break - hope you can do the same.
Best Regards,
Shipo
The only whistling noise (barely audible) is at idle and only from outside when standing on the passenger side only. You may not be able to hear it but I know it's there.
Forgot to mention that I set the tires (when cold) to 32/35 F/R last night. Do you know what yours are set to? Feel free to change them to anything you'd like to see if the ride will be any different. It does ride smoother when the tire pressure is down to 30/32 F/R.
I also thought that shifting was smoother in the 325. You can pretty much go diagonally when downshifting from 5-th to 4-th while in the 328 you need to move the shifter slightly left at the halfway point.
BTW, are you sure we didn't swap the wives? I can't find mine, maybe you should check to see if yours is still around
Dave: LOL!
I guess that would be fair.
You are correct paint is not covered by the CPO warranty but my car has two years and 25,000 miles left on the new car warranty. I can't believe BMWNA allows a wrecked car to be certified and then exclude it from any part of the stated warranty. The certification list clearly has a section on bumpers and paint. Unfortunately I don't have a copy. If the bumper and paint were in good enough condition to pass the certification inspection how can they exclude it after the fact.
No clear indication of whose steering is heavier, I guess. You know that I'm dying to know. Next time I'll bring my "ultra-light" (IMO) July 2001 steering to your road test
Today I was in "Sports Mode" and I was entering the highway and had to stab the pedal a bit to fit in and the car surprised the daylights out of me at the way it took off. I looked at the tach and it was at about 4700-4800... Ouch!
I will be more carefull...
Do you think this "mistake" will cause me problems down the road???
Thanks,
CNorthrup
One thing to consider regarding the steering between Stroumpf and my 328i is that Stroumpf is running 225 section width tires and I am running 205s. Certainly if both cars had identical manual steering, Stroumpf would feel like she had "Heavier" steering, I wonder if this might be a factor in the difference between Brave's perception and my own. Another factor is the speed of the vehicle when trying to get a feel for the lightness.
Stay tuned for further reports from your two loyal and intrepid reporters. ;-)
Best Regards,
Shipo
Best Regards,
Shipo
I know the whistling noise that you're talking about when the car is idling. Its the fuel injector-- that's why you only hear it on one side. Its the loudest fuel injector i've ever heard. All E46s seem to have this noise.
Shipo/Brave-
The whistling noise i'm talking about happens above 60mph (70 is better), with very little throttle. Just place your foot on the accelerator a little bit. it comes from the engine compartment. You may have to concentrate a bit to hear it-- to me it just jumps out (i do have relatively sensitive hearing)- but you may have to listen closely. Its not just wind noise- because it goes away if you remove your foot or press harder on the accelerator. It doesn't happen at idle in neutral- which leads me to believe that its not the engine itself or belts. My bet is on something about the air intake/ throttle. I think the wind rushing into the partially open throttle body at speed creates the noise. But, if it were that simple, all cars would make this noise under the same conditions. I've been thinking about trying the tape-recorder trick. I might stick it in that big open space at the top left of the engine compartment.
I'd appreciate it if you could try this on the 325i and listen to see if it happens. Above 70mph is best. BTW, its not very, very loud, but it should be noticeable if you pay attention. My dealer claims he can't hear anything- but i'm going to bring it to another dealer-- I KNOW i'm not hearing things. I had the car in Germany and at speeds over 100mph and part throttle it becomes much louder (as you'd expect if it was intake related). I think this experience may have "trained" my ear to the frequency of the noise and now I notice it all the time-- even w/ the radio on (the frequency just seems to slice through other ambient noise).
Regarding the seatbelt rattle:
I had the same thing and it drove me nuts. The dealer couldn't fix it-- there is a TSB- but they said my car already had the same parts as specified in the TSB. I dismantled the pillar and placed self-adhesive felt in key locations-- the problem is now gone! I can try and describe what I did in more detail if you're interested.
Sorry for the long post.
Do you agree that varying speed and rpm is a good idea? I would think the more the better.
I will keep the car in "regular" drive mode from now on when I am entering the highway.
Thanks,
CNorthrup
I double checked after the salesman told me 4000.
I normally keep it under 4000.
I noticed with the step that it will work in a pretty narrow rpm range unless you play with it a bit.
Thanks,
CNorthrup
My first reaction to the loaners steering when I drove it was "wow, this is heavy". My steering would pass your 1 finger test for sure, but that doesn't sound like Brave's steering to me. I would definately like to do a comparison with a 2001.
Ne
While I have not seen first hand the throttle body of the E46 (I assume there is a throttle body until such time as BMW introduces "Valvetronic" over on this side of the pond), however, having seen more than my share over the years, I have developed a theory that is if anything, a long shot.
Every throttle body that I have ever seen is essentially a "Butterfly" valve where a circularish shaped disk of some material (usually metal) is attached at its centerpoint to a rod (usually via screws). Most throttle bodies from German cars that I have seen have two throttle valves attached to the same rod, hence they both operate at the same time to restrict/allow airflow into the intake plenum.
I find myself wondering what one would hear if one of the little attachment screws has gone missing. Under low power conditions, there is probably not enough airflow to make any noise, under high power conditions, the valves would be rotated to allow maximum air to pass through the throat, and at the same time, the screws would be essentially perpendicular to the airflow and hence shielded from allowing any air of significant quantity to pass through them.
This leaves moderate throttle conditions such as a steady state cruise > 60mph. In this case, the Butterfly valves will be almost closed (valves almost perpendicular to the airflow) which would present the hole from the missing screw to the airflow. If said screw hole was just the right size, it could whistle.
Please remember, this is a long shot, but it might be worth taking a look.
Best Regards,
Shipo
And what is the drilling for as well? Seems to me like there are 3 situations now:
1. Thread exist
2. use the square piece as a thread
3. drill the hole.
Step 2 is never in the instruction? did they forgot about it?
I picked up my 2002 orient blue 325i a couple of weeks ago and am very happy (already put 600+ miles on it). Included are the premium package, cold packag, sand leather seats, and automatic (had to do it). I also got the dealer installed BMW alarm system. In the 2002 owner's manual on page 30 it claim's that the "panic" button is activated by depressing the "lock" button for 2-5 seconds; however, the actual panic button on my car is activated by depressing the "trunk release" button for 2-5 seconds. Suspecting that the dealership incorrectly wired or programmed my alarm system I went to the dealership to get this fixed but they insisted that owner's manual was wrong. I even called BMWNA who wasn't much help. The guy I was talking to referred to his 2001 owner's manual. While this is a very minor issue because I tested my alarm system and everything else seems to work I'd like to have everything working right on a 30+k car. So who's right? the owner's manual or the dealership? It just seems wrong to me that the panic button would be triggered by the trunk release button.
I think the manual for the 02 is wrong, and your dealer is correct.
What's your take on running your bimmer through an automatic car wash system. The owner's manual suggests that you clean your car once a week and use a brushless automatic car wash system if you choose to go that route. The winters in Boston can be brutal on cars in the excessive use of salt and sand to clear the roads (ever try to drive around a salt dispenser truck?) I'd much rather run my car through an automatic car wash system during the winter then standing in the cold washing my car esp. since a lot of the car washes have the "undercarriage wash" option to clear the salt and sand. What do you guys do to keep your car clean through the winter and if you use an automatic car wash and live in Boston which one do you recommend? TIA
p.s. I stay away from scrub-a-dub because there system just seems too harsh.