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Mercedes-Benz E-Class Sedans



  • toddl1toddl1 Posts: 2
    Regarding rcroft and his fuel tank problem. I recently had a similar problem when I filled up my y2k E320, the gauge would register 3/4 full and would not move. I took the car into the dealer and discovered I had a faulty fuel level sensor. I would suggest that the dealer check that out, it to may need replacing. My service etch mentioned that they have had a lot of problems with this sensor lately. I hope this helps, let me know what you find out.
  • buckie1buckie1 Posts: 1
    Anyone have any feel for what to expect for engine longevity for the 300 or 320 w/ reg oil changes etc? I'm looking at 94/95 w/ about 100k miles. Is 250-300 reasonable?

    I have a '83 240D w/ 250+ and still going... best car from a maintenance point of view ever! Can I get another MB as good?

  • svinaiksvinaik Posts: 84
    Considering that discounts are available on the current E Class but I am sure that MY 2003 E Class will go for MRSP (At least for the first 2 years), What do you folks think will happen to the trade in values of the current E-Class when the MY 2003 E Class hits the road. Do you think that Trade in Values down the line will reflect the current discounts offered.
  • kkopskkops Posts: 14

    I have the same car, purchased about six weeks ago. It is a wonderful car. I believe the tires are Pirelli Supersport 7000 tires and they are an excellent tire. I believe they are rated HZ which corresponds to a ultra high performance tire and near Z rating (racing tires). You can read a review on them at They handle real well from my experience so far.

    Also, they are excellent on wet & dry surfaces, you are not likely to hydroplane on these tires even at fast speeds.

    Enjoy the new wheels.
  • kkopskkops Posts: 14
    Based upon my review of various dealers, I can tell you for sure that in Southern Florida as well as the Northeast (NY, NY, CT) area, that just about all dealers are offering a minimum of $2,000 off of MSRP for an E-class. Depending on what you order, the reduction can definitely be higher.

    If the salesperson is not willing to deal, I would ask to speak to the sales manager and tell him you are ready to buy now but expect to pay what other dealers around the country are charging.
    Good luck.
  • jdsu1437jdsu1437 Posts: 3
    I just ordered an E320 (4mat) with most of options from a dealer in the Philly area (PA). The dealer only gave me $2000 discount and I will not have the car until mid-late April. What's a reasonable discount? Should I cancel the order and forget about the $500 deposit that I put in?

  • tendonstendons Posts: 43
    is the winter mode just mean it starts in second gear or are all the gears changed to reduce wheel spin.The car only has 200 miles on it and I find that it seems to want to get out of first gear, when it's in the summer position, as quickly as possible unless I push down quickly on the gas, while in the w mode it starts I guess in second and holds on to that gear for some time. I wondered if the differences are just a function of the breakin period or will first gear always be like that? Stewart
  • drew_drew_ Posts: 3,382
    No, in winter mode, the transmission starts off in 2nd gear. This is because 2nd gear has less torque than first, and hence the rear tires are less likely to break loose and spin, especially since you're already on a slippery surface.

    WRT the summer "behaviour", the transmission is driver adaptive, and hence if you're not a lead foot, it will shift for economy. It has multiple shift points/maps to accomodate the different driving style. You'll find that if you consistently drive hard though, it will hold the gears longer before shifting.

    Vans, SUVs, and Aftermarket and Accessories message boards
  • kkopskkops Posts: 14

    If you are happy with the car you ordered, I would not cancel the order. $2k off of MSRP is a good price for that vehicle. The point of your maximum negotiation is when you are ready to sign for the car and put down your deposit. This is the time where the dealer hopes you are relaxed and buys into whatever he/she has told you.

    In order to demand certain price breaks you need to know the market. I spent six months researching my purchase before I walked into the showroom. I didn't want to feel like I was sold a vehicle but rather I was buying what I wanted.

    Everyone has a different point of view. A year ago, most prices were inflexible with respect to these vehicles. It is only now when there is a buyers market by virtue of a larger supply of E Class models that some negotiations and price breaks can occur. It also doesn't hurt that a new design change is about to occur in a year and a half from now. Some dealers believe that they should get full MSRP for the vehicle and that is their policy. I know that is the case for almost every S class car sold. Other dealers especially larger dealers will offer some discount in order to move the cars quicker. Its up to you to know what range your dealer will operate in.
  • tkc9789tkc9789 Posts: 2
    Some of the messages posted here clearly indicate that dealers are selling the E-class at or below invoice. Can someone tell me if I may be able to find such deals for a E320 in the Dallsa Ft. Worth area?
  • lhcleunglhcleung Posts: 24
    Hi every one; two days ago, I've delivery of my 2001 E320. When I ask about the first oil change, the sales representative maintained that it has be done no sooner than 15k km. I remember I have read something along this line in the past in this forum, but I can't remember what is the final verdict. My feeling is: it should be sooner than that because the engine is new. I would appreciate any information or advice from anyone. Thanks. BTW, it is a beautiful car: smooth, quiet, excellent handling and powerful; and of course, the design is outstanding - stylish and modern looking. Love it.

  • donald02donald02 Posts: 54
    Allen: Mercedes adds 7 percent to Invoice to get MSRP. In addition, the dealer gets 3 percent of MSRP for dealer holdback. This is all explained at the Edmunds website.

    Last October I bought an E430 for $200 over invoice. That left the dealer with a profit of over $1600. At this time you should be able to get into the dealer holdback because there are more E class cars in inventory and the new 1993 E's will be out soon.

  • donald02donald02 Posts: 54
    Allen: Suggest you get the phone numbers of all MB dealers within say 500 or 1000 miles and call them and talk to the sales manager. Tell him what you will pay (say 200 or 500 under invoice) and take the best deal. You're going to have more success if you take a car from inventory.

    Good Luck!!

  • macbestmacbest Posts: 55
    Donald: can you tell us where you got your E for 200 under? Which Dealer?

    Does anyone have web or email addresses for the "internet" salesperson at dealers that they know are at, or under invoice? Looking specifically for California area (Bay area even better, but I know that LA usually has the biggest inventory).
  • tomsky3tomsky3 Posts: 48
    Does anyone know how to get access to the battery? I understand thst it's supposed to be under the rear seat. On previous cars, when I would have a dead battery of more than, say, three or four years old, I would use another car to pick up a new battery from the auto supply store. A battery of 850 or 1000 CCA would run no more than around $85. I would then install it myself.

    In the future, would I be able to use any good battery or would it have to be a special MB battery? Would it require professional installation? Would roadside service do it? How much would they charge?

    Oh, how do I get an American flag next to my name?

  • Just look the each corner of the lower seat. You will see a tab on each side, just pop each one and the lower part of the seat then can be removed. As for the other info - we have always replaced the batteries with what we feel is the best for our weather conditions (manufacturer doesn't matter). You can easily install it yourself, if you understand the neg/pos aspect and can do minor work on autos. Roadside is an unknown to me but I bet it would be big $$$. When we need roadside assistance on any of the Tractors or the Bus, it is full retail for the part and labor is rich and boy it hurts.... MB, I am sure would be no different.
  • yahoo2yahoo2 Posts: 28
    $100, $1000, $5000 below MSRP. Why doesn't everyone here just tell where, when, HOW MUCH (out the door), and the sales guy you dealt with. This info can actully help others that are going through the process. You/we go into minutia about trivial stuff when in fact the hardest part is actually getting a decent deal.

    Me first. I got my new 1999 E320 throught the Costco referal service. We were refered to Downtown LA Motors (Los Angeles Ca). My Sales guy was Ralph Guerrero. No pressure, great guy. Out the door price was under...$49200. My options are leather seats, premium sound w/cd, sun roof. Can't remember option codes.

    Good luck to all these cars are great. To those you who are thinking of waiting beacause of changes looming in a couple of years you gotta jump on the wagon. You know, when the car changes in a couple of years there will be more changes a couple of years after that. So get the check book and let's go buy some E's.

    Have a good day.
  • calsunncalsunn Posts: 4
    Has anyone had experience with SRS problems? I recently had the SRS light stay on with a code 7 error message. I now find that a new wire harness is needed as there is a fault in the connector/harness for the right side air bag.
  • pt1224pt1224 Posts: 4
    The question is, what is the best price you are going to get? How much do you want to pay for a Mercedes Benz E Class. Would $200.00 or $500.00 make a difference. Your investment in the car is over $45000.00. once you spend that much money, $500.00 seems like a nickel.
    Make an appointment with me and come visit me, I will make sure you will get the best price any one has.
  • tj_610tj_610 Posts: 132
    Sorry, but $500 is $500 bucks. Would you pay $1000 for a $500 TV? Or $501 for a 20 oz. Coke? A better point may be to ask what your time is worth. Once you know what you want, is it worth hours of research, phone calls, haggling, etc., to save a few hundred bucks? Most people looking at these cars have a pretty decent hourly wage. Remember what your TIME is worth when looking for a really good price vs. "the best" deal!
  • sshowittsshowitt Posts: 137
    Interesting, go to the C-Class board and you find a similiar discussion, were you able to deal and if so, how much were you able to get off MSRP, $200, $500, etc. Go to the CLK board, the question is not how much, but how long is the wait to get the vehicle, and in some cases, did you have to pay over list. I am sure that in 2003 when the new CLK design is introduced, we will also find the same discussion on the CLK board.
  • pt1224pt1224 Posts: 4
    I guess when you sell a house, From the time your offer is accepted until you sign the papers the price changes. I think what you mean someone omits a mistake by adding a fee which was not discussed at the time of the sell, Because I don't think there should be a discrepancy in the actual sell price.
    $1000,000.00 is $1000,000.00 .
    Lets Established soothing, You do not trust anyone giving you a price because you think by the time you get to the store,there will be other fees, added to make the price go higher.
    If someone quote you $45000.00 for the car the price is going to be $45000.00, the $500.00 mistake is either yours by purchasing something extra, or the person doing the document.
    Let's be honest and ask the right question.
    What equipment you want on your I Class, What color do want? Do you want the sunroof, or do you rather order a car without the sunroof.
    the price of a car with no equipment is less than a car with lots of equipment.

    To answer the other gentleman question on the TV
    How many times have you walked into a store, and saw a price tag on an item, and you thought to yourself THIS CAN NOT BE RIGHT. No one in the right mind would pay $1000.00 for a $500.00 TV, Again we are not talking about a mistake on the price tag. You are looking to buy a Mercedes Ben. Yes If I saw a $45000.00 on a go I would have.......
  • pt1224pt1224 Posts: 4
    one little mistake the car I was talking about was a UGO.
  • veeikleveeikle Posts: 13
    I just purchased a 98 e320 4matic has a factory installed phone..i have not activated it yet because i am told it's analog not digital...does anyone know if i can get this converted to digital service..
  • donald02donald02 Posts: 54
    Macbest: I bought my E430 in Oct'00 at Euromotorcars in Bethesda, MD, from Rob. I paid $200 over Invoice. No matter where you live you should be able to deal at Invoice +/- a few hundred on an E if you take a car from stock. Invoice leaves the dealer 3% of MSRP for dealer holdback. Use Edmunds to get exact dealer cost and negotiate from that. Deal over the phone then you have the leverage-you can hang-up. Always leave your phone # for call backs. Don
  • donald02donald02 Posts: 54
    Yahoo2: The reason it makes no sense to just give the price you paid is each car has different options. Makes much more sense to give the rationale and you figure out what price is reasonable in your case. Also, if dealer incentives are given by Mercedes you must determine how much that lowers the price you are willing to pay.

  • bargamonbargamon Posts: 302
    Alot has to do with trade in issue and bragging rights. Net net is all that counts.

    Many whom brag about stock winnings are quiet these days as to their losses. Macho also persists when buying a car, and what north american male could tell you they are happy with MSRP? They'll tell you they love the car. Whats more important, the price or the car? I think paying an extra 1% is a small price. If you get what you want, you pay. If you do your homework, you know what is a good-fair price. Someone will always get it cheeper, but thats irrelevant. Just like someone always gets the stock cheaper, or sells at the top. But they don't always tell the full story of other trades. When you set real goals and accomplish them, you are successful.

    Trading in a car also clouds things up a bit, and Im not sure all is telling everything when bragging.

    I bought a new silver e-430 in november for 9% below msrp, that means I got into 2/3rds of the kick back.

    How, I spoke with 3 dealers. I told them I would spend $x and not a penny more. I said new would be great, but find me a 2000 model with less than 7k miles on it. I did not care how long it took. This went on for about 3 weeks. They would find a used one, loaded for a higher price then I wanted to pay. I said no many times, because I was firm on how much money I was gong to spend. Nothing personal, no games, just cold hard facts. I had no trade in, no financing issues. On the second to last day of the month, they called me and said I could have it if I came in and closed by the next day.

    I was shocked when they did this. Why did they? First, they new I was a serious buyer from the first conversation and was going to buy a car. I had also purchased a new ML 8 months earlier, so they knew me. I also have a good relationship with these people now. Dual respect when negotiating goes along way. At the end of the month, they new they could move a car. In the end it worked out. IF you go to a dealer, start driving, start talking price, bring in a trade, you have lost leverage in the first 5 minutes. Trade in's lose your leverage.

    Im not bragging, just explaining a full experience and my perception of why it is hard to get one of those great deals. Good luck
  • yahoo2yahoo2 Posts: 28
    tap tap, tapity tap tap. Look I'm tap dancing. That made absolutely no sense to me. I felt like I was reading a transcript of Don King explanifcating him self.
  • becoolbecool Posts: 1
    My wife's best friend has persuaded her that there is (or was) a fundamental problem with the MB 4-matic. I think the 4-matic wagon she owned was an early 90s model. Does anybody know something definitive about this question? I'd like to get a 4-matic wagon, say 2 or 3 years old, and so would my wife. (She loves her 1988 wagon, EXCEPT for the performance in snow.) But she won't do get a 4-matic unless this question is answered to her satisfaction. Thanks for any help.
  • driverx1driverx1 Posts: 2
    Never negotiate with just ONE dealer. I purchased a CLK 320 3 months ago and was dealing with one dealer and I was getting the run around. They would never call me, I had to call them. Then I opened the Dupont Registry and just randomly called out of state dealers esp- Texas ones. Told my original dealer about out of state dealer could get car in 2 weeks. Got the one in texas because they gave me much better deal.

    Now I'm getting a 2001 E320 and told local dealer that I'm being honest and negotiating with a Texas dealer. Well local dealer gave me $1000 off MSRP off the bat and said they can get my E320 in 1 week. Point is, NEVER deal with just the local dealer. Call an out state and make both compete against each other. I think dealers have an "emergency supply" for those who will pay for it now and will not wait vs. those who have money and more willing to wait or have no competing dealer. BTW- I never went to the local dealer yet. All done over the phone and will go and put down deposit tomorrow for 2001 E320 with COMAND in Black/Java.

    Even if you want to buy local for the future service get a quote from another dealer BEFORE you put down deposit. In fact go to desired dealer LAST with other dealers' numbers all done over the phone.

    For my CLK I even made them right an addendum to deposit agreement which allowed me to opt of waiting for car if it took them more than 1 month beyond the stated arrival time. I doubt all dealers would sign such an addendum :)

    USE the Dupont Registry. These dealers deal with hi-end customers and cars all the time. Caution- some of these are obnoxious. Call around. ALWAYS mention another dealer.
This discussion has been closed.