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cce182 - It is a generic E-class manual, which is why I don't trust it much, but my salesman, and Richard's salesman and tech dept. claim 21.1 gallons. I think they are wrong, and I'm getting more and more tempted to just run dry and find out once and for all. Going on a road trip this weekend(along with probably 100 million others) and may just do it.
-AJ
They indicated that the steering angle sensor has to be replaced, ordered a part and scheduled appt in 3 weeks. Assured that vehicle safety and performance are not in doubt.
Anybody having similar problems?
Do you know if the car is available sooner through the European delivery? Thanks.
Thanks.
RG
Thanks for your reply. Experience you had was quite similar to mine with the only difference: the electronic stability system (ESP button) was on all the time.
I am not sure why this button exists at all. Probably someone needs this system off time to time?
I hope that this helps.
Wally
He indicated that the new 2003 E-class will likely be hitting US showrooms in April-June of next year. Wagons and AWD models may be delayed slightly. European delivery will not likely be available until after cars first start showing up here. For example, the CLK and new S class model was not available by ED until several months after they first hit US showrooms.
For what it's worth, he indicated that the significant discounts currently available for remaining 2001 E-class cars will probably continue almost uninterupted through the 2002 models when they are available in a couple of months. I was nearly prepared to pay $44,800 for a brand new E320 Wagon yesterday, just to get the approximately $6,700 discount of MSRP ($2,200 under invoice). However, when I indicated that my preference was for a different color combination w/ some different options, the GM pulled me aside and sent me home with his assurance that I would be able to get a new 2002 model exactly as I wanted it at a similar savings in 4-5 months. Pretty classy move compared to 98% of the other dealership personnel I have dealt with over the years.
- Sorry I misposted a week or so ago regarding trade of out-of-date CD. I'm in the D.C. area and have last year's CD Map # 8 for the Mid-Atlantic. I'd be glad to swap you for your out-of-date CD # 7. My e-mail address is included in my profile -- let me know.
Reason: While I am not familiar with the specific design of M-B fuel systems, most Bosch-designed fuel-injected cars have a high-pressure electric fuel pump between the tank and the engine. A pressure relief valve returns the unused fuel back to the tank in a closed-loop system, with the fuel for the engine drawn off the pressure manifold as commanded by the engine controller. This electric pump is actually submerged in fuel (yes, there's electricity in contact with the fuel): the bearings in this pump get their lubrication from the fuel. Running such a system dry causes the lubrication to be lost and can quickly compromise the bearings in the pump. The pump may run OK when the engine is refueled, but the bearing friction could be higher, causing the pump to draw more current, and eventually causing the pump to fail, its fuse to fail, or the relay that controls it to burn up. IMHO, such an experiment is not worth the informationl gained from it. Do what you want, but I know people to whom this has happened.
I'm sure any dealer would be happy to accomodate you, especially if your ploy is to drive there in your Buick Park Avenue, shop for a C, try it out, surmise out loud that "it might be a little small - could I try the E?" Sales people get all excited about upgrading customers (downgrading scares the crap out of 'em), and you'll get the fun of driving two cars. Besides, not all contributors to this board (including me) are trusted experts in handling analysis - - you need to try for yourself. I sure would before I dropped $40k or more on a car. Make an afternoon out of it!
Both cars, I would expect, are pretty good at handling. But, I'd not be surprised that the C is more "spritely" than the E, which in turn is more spritely the S. All that inertia!
I think the choice is really size and usage. I test any car I'm contemplating for purchase by getting in the front seat (I'm 6'0" tall) setting the driving position to my liking, and then I get in the back seat, assessing the rear seat for entry ease, legroom, and comfort. Then, I size up the trunk, which isn't all that generous in ANY M-B cars compared to their U.S. Competition. All this depends on whether you ever carry anyone in the back seat or fill the trunk, tho - and if you don't, then your comparing the wrong cars - look at a CLK.
What are some of the problems that owners have experience with this model -- and how much was the damage to your wallets?
Would you even touch this car? It seems very well maintained -- about 70k of the 90k was driven in the first 30 months -- the car sat in the garage pretty much all of '99 and '00.
The car looks like it is in excellent condition --MBZ dealer serviced, full AMG body kit and exhaust -- 18" Carlsson 3 piece and an excellent after market stereo.
I am deathly afraid of the high mileage though -- given that I'd put in another 18k a year.
Any thoughts?
I showed this to my dealer and he told me that steeing column is like that because of the safety reasons and he showed me another E320 in the lot and that also had its steering column tilted to the left and pulling towards to the right he blamed on tires(GoodYear Eagle F1) and the roads.
I was not satisfied by there answer so I had my car looked at by a Canadian dealer(I live close to the border). The machanic did not know why the steering column was tilted to the left, he said it could be because of the design of USA based E-class as the Canadian E class's steering column was preety much centered. Pulling to the right - they did the alignment and checked the tire pressure but it still pulls to the right.
So I do not know if the Steering column should be tilted to the left as some E-class(Canadian model) have it centered and some do not(USA model). Pulling to the right - Is it because of the GoodYear Eagle F1 tires or/and roads or something else wrong.
In order to verify if your E-class's steering column is tilted to left is by checking the area where the column meets the dash area. Try to put fingers between the space to the left and to the right - you may find out that the space between both sides is not equal (if the column is tilted to the left).
Please advice what should I do, take it to another dealer or all of this is by design and just live with it.
Thanks.
mat for the rear seat of a 01 E320? The hump
in the middle is going to be impossible to keep
clean when my 2 year old twins start riding in
the car and not the SUV! Also are there any
good accessory sites out there?
My car drifts to the right, not pulling, taking about 2-300 feet to get into the next lane. I've got the 18 inch tires, Dunlop sp9000 and wondered if that might be the reason. Alignment they said was fine.
It's also not really annoying, but at times a little. The roads are built slightly slanting to the right for drainage purposes, but even when I ride over the center there is still that drift.
Therefore, you may want to wait for a 2002 model and still get a good deal.
For my second fill on my wagon, it again stopped at approx. 17.5 gallons, and seemed full after I gave the pump handle a couple of squeezes. Then, I decided what the hell, and I'll fill 'til it overflows, so I lifted the nozzle out until it was barely passed the fuel filler flap thingy, and proceeded to pump away until I added another 2.8 gallons. The indicator still said 18.4 gallons, so I guess I'll have that fixed/replaced soon. I drove about 110 miles before the display changed to 18.2 gallons.
It seems strange that many(most? all?) wagons are calibrated this way, based on the few data points in this group. Thanks for all the responses and info.
-AJ
Just a reminder that the MB chat is on tonight (6-7pm Pacific/9-10 pm Eastern). Hope to see you there!
http://www.edmunds.com/chat/mercedeschat.html
Drew
Host
Vans, SUVs, and Aftermarket & Accessories message boards
Please advise.
Thanks
Topic: July 3rd: "Ford & Firestone - Major Malfunction... or Media Monster?"
thanks
Sedan Gas tank is behind the rear seat, standing vertically. The filler neck for the fuel is probably less than one foot long. When it's full, it's full.
Since behind-the-seat isn't a design option for a wagon gas tank, I would assume the wagon tank is either under the floor in front of the rear suspension(safest place), or (gasp!) a "saddle bag" in one rear fender (I'd not like this at all - recall the GM truck saddlebag gastank flap with NTHSB and ABC news that was in the press a few years ago).
All gas tanks have an expansion space designed into them since gas expands as it gets hot and the gas is cool in the underground tanks at the filling station. A design that spills gas out of a full tank in hot weather is considered uncouth by the EPA. I think you filled the expansion space (2.5 gallons is less than 1/3 cubic foot) when you forced the additional fuel into the tank. The manual warns you against this in any event. There have been numerous posts on this board in the past about fuel spitting out of the tank and getting all over you and the car when they've pulled the nozzle out of the filler pipe. Bad deal when it happens. Whether these were only Wagons, I could not say.
If the indicator didn't change after you started stuffing gas in after the first full-shutoff, I'd bet you were filling this expansion space where the gas gauge, by design, has no need to make a measurement. If you dribble it in slowly enuf, you can probably fill this expansion space, but again, the manual says not to do it.
I'd still get the dealer M-B, or whoever to tell me how much gas my car is supposed to be carrying, then decide whether it's broke and needs fixin'.
I'd bet on the following outcome at this point.
1. Capacity is 70/9 per earlier discussions.
2. Tank gauge assumes full at 18.4 and is not designed to show higher.
3. Your gauge is working fine.
Now I know why I didn't get a wagon.
1. Only available with V6 (I got a 430)
2. Gas tank is smaller than in sedan.
BTW, there are very few American or Japanese cars that carry more than 18.5 gallons, and at 21/30, the mileage. and thus the range, on the E320 ain't bad.
Now, if I could just buy this car with a ski-bag thru the rear seat armrest, I'd be happy. Unfortunately, sedan gas tank mounting position prevents this.
CCE
Regarding engine, the 320 is surprisingly peppy, but I would certainly have opted for a 430 if they offered it here, or maybe even an E55(both of which are availabe in Europe). I needed the extra seating option, as I got rid of my SUV. The E320 is faster than most sport-utes...
Regarding milage, my wagon is getting lousy mileage, but it is brand new, and I did a fair bit of driving with a Rocketbox and bicycle on top, which has obvious impact, but 23mpg highway is very poor, I hope it improves dramatically under normal conditions. With 18.4 gal and 23 mpg, I'm looking at a 400mi. range, but if I get upper 20's I'm looking at 500mi. or so. Much better.
-AJ
My e-430 with 8k now gets 21.5mpg in mixed use. About 24-25 on highway. It got much better after 5k.
http://members7.clubphoto.com/andreas402309/Jul_4_2001/
I expected an improvement, and I hope it's comparable to your experience. Virtually all cars improve from new, and I just didn't know how much.
I agree that upper 20's mileage is great for a car of this size, weight, and power. The brochure claims that in 2000, it had the highest EPA mileage for a 6-cyclinder car in the US. Pretty impressive, considering 221 hp and 3991 lbs!
Thanks for your help.
email me directly or post if you have any further info.
Dan Wang
drdan976@aol.com
Have been warned about 190E so thats outta question.
I need some info in 1990-1995 E Class. I am more interested in reliability. I like the body style, especially the black/gray combination. How much can I expect to spend on maintenance on E class cars with 100k+ mileage.
Also, whats the difference between 300E and E320 apart from engine size and nomenclature?
Thanks for your help.
Senthil
Phoenix AZ
I would get a 91 or newer because they changed the transmission to start in first gear and lowered the rear end ratio to give quieter cruising. In 93 the engines were changed from single overhead cam motors to dual overhead cam. The newer 3.2 liter motor has close to 220 HP vs 180 for the single OHC motor. There have some reports of head gaskets leaking oil with the dual OHC motors. The single OHC motor usually needs the head redone around 180K miles. The bottom ends are very solid. In '94 they changed the designation from 300E to E320 and made changes to the hood and trunk styling. They replaced the chrome radiator shell to make the E-Class look more like the S-Class of that era.
Mercedes continuously improves their cars so the later the better. These are wonderful, solid cars. Mercedes in every sense of the word.
When the current W210 E-class came out and we tested it, it was just heads and shoulders over the predecessor, both interior and exterior-wise. Took a while to get used to the radical (but retro) goggle-eyed quad headlamps though! I absolutely hated it when it first came out since it looked so different from what I was used to for an entire decade. I felt that the turn signals built into the upper part of the low beam headlamps were especially alarming. However, I think it looks great now though, and the W211, if that picture is real, is even better.
As for the best MB ever made, I would probably have to say that it's the previous generation S-class. However, it represented an era where MB vehicles were expensive as heck (probably why they were so prestigeous), big and bulky, and way over-engineered. Some more traditional and long-time MB buyers, such as my father, feel that this is a good thing. Personally, I love the new S-class a heck of a lot more. ;-p
Drew
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Vans, SUVs, and Aftermarket & Accessories message boards
FYI, over 50% of the E-classes sold in Canada are equipped with the 4-matic system.
Drew
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Vans, SUVs, and Aftermarket & Accessories message boards