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okay, I hope you used a trim tool to compress the sides of the plastic rivets, otherwise you can possibly damage the trim itself. (No need to panic, you're probably fine.) But I highly recommend spending the $5 on the trim tool.
Actually, pulling the trim is not the first step. But let me list the steps in order:
Tools necessary:
a) Trim Tool
b) Drill and 4.8mm or 3/16 inch drill bit.
c) Riveter
d) Assortment of screwdrivers.
e) Torx bits (or driver) for electric motor mounting.
Steps:
1.) Use a very small screwdriver to pop the hard plastic shell behind the door release handle. Use a large phillips screw driver to unscrew the screw behind it. Its probably very tight.
2.) Do the same with a small round plastic cover under the actual (big) door handle. The same kind of screw needs to be removed.
3.) The door has a small clear light in the bottom. Use the small screw driver to remove the light. Disconnect the two connectors.
4.) Use the small screwdriver to remove the window switch in the rear door. Gently, oh so very gently, use the screwdriver to release the clasps that hold the switch.
5.) With the trim tool, pull the lower part of the trim away from the door. Feel the plastic plugs with the trim tool, compress and pull them. Be careful not to damage the moisture barrier.
6.) Unscrew the door lock pin and remove it. Also remove the small plastic trim cover from the door lock itself.
7. )The top of the trim is held by metal clasps.
Gently lift the trim up. If you can reach, gently push up the horizontal part of the trim from below. Completely take off the trim.
8.) The door release cable is still connected. Disconnect it from behind the release lever.
9.)Now your should see just the moisture barrier. Gently pull it off. Be careful, it rips easily. Pull it just far enough to expose the regulator mechanism.
10.) Unclasp a small plastic clasp from where the window connects to the plastic slider of the regulator. Move the window slightly to the side until it unhooks, and push the window all the way up. (It should support its own weight in that position.)
11.) Presuming that the regulator mechnism took a hit and is responsible for the power window failure, take a 4.8 mm (or 3/16 inch) drill bit and drill through the 4 metal rivets holding the regulator. Drill straight through, and dont use any larger bit,or you may damage the door.
12.) Unconnect the electrical connector on the regulator, tilt the regulator and pull it out. Mine looked like this.
13.) Use the torx bits to remove the electric motor from the old regulator and transfer it to the new one.
13.) Install the new one by sliding it into place and push the new rivets into place. (I would suggest connecting the motor and the window to the regulator and testing the assembly at this point of time, before the rivets are set.)
14.) Use the riveter to set the rivets that came with the new regulator.
15.) Steps 9 to 1 in reverse.
Good Luck !
The 500 definitely was faster, but I don't think it would be of practical use except on a race track. The air suspension was only marginally better zipping around the cones.
Bottom line: Both are excellent cars and I plan on buying the E320. I don't see the marginal benefits of the 500 worthy of the additional costs of purchase, gas and insurance.
That repair sequence is awesome! Since I too have the 96 E, I may need that in the near future..
So when are you going to publish the other 286 chapters in how to fix the "E"...??
Fred
The only other thing I could offer are the steps of how to remove the instrument cluster...
Actually, any autoparts store will sell you one. They are pretty generic, looking like a thin miniature crowbar with a handle at the end. I got mine at PepBoys, I believe.
No, I'm not an engineer, unless you'd count a physics degree, and I'm not really over there, unless you're referring to California.
Anyhow, with the release of the W211, the repair & service manuals for the W210 should be released on CD pretty soon. Has anybody any details on when that would be ?
I have a 2000 e320. I hear a whistling/whinning sound when the AC first starts. It is kind of stop and go for the first 15 minutes. I took it back to the dealer and they replaced the fan. The problem is still there. Any comments or suggestion? Is it normal?
Thanks!
Does anyone have experience with rack systems on their E Class?
TIA
They handled a New Hampshire winter without any problem at all. I plan to get 4 for my E-320 this winter.
Reading the charts and numbers, the only ratings that troubled me were the 3 comfort ratings for the E500. Rating only "good" for general and Fore-and-aft support "Comfort", and a "fair" for lateral support. The comfort ratings for the last E class the mag tested was for the 2000 E55, when they rated as "good", "excellent", and "fair". So it seems the fore-and-aft rating has actually dropped for this last model change.
The all important 0-60 is an impressive 5.8s. The 2001 E55 had a 5.5s time.
Paul
What does the ratings measure. "General; Fore and Aft; and Lateral"
What do they measure and how does it affect the ride and confort.
I will look for the November issue of Car & Driver.
But "Lateral" and "Fore-and-aft" are ratings of how planted you will remain during aggressive driving. So it isn't a comfort factor at all. Cheaper cars often have quite narrow,bolstered seats. The thinking is that only younger,still in shape guys will be driving then. As in the little Accura coupe-fabulous seats.
But in expensive cars,often middle-aged and older drivers buy them. And few of of us middle aged guys are still wearing size 40 suits.
While the 2000 E55 had only 1 Exe, I found the seats more comfortable than my 2001 S500 seats. C&D did give the Lexus LS430 3 Exe's, but I have never driven longer than a test drive in those, so I can't say how great those seats are.
C&D once said that the seat comfort ratings is from the average of 3 reviewers. If all 3 have the same physique and different from ours; then these ratings are useless. All in all, I found these ratings to be good in scanning before buying.
Paul
In addition, I have driven non 4matic mercedes such as the S430 as well as the E320 and the ML320. I believe you get a much better feel for the road with the 4matic. Probably because when you take your foot off of the gas, you get a little drag due to the 4matic which you don't experience with a non 4matic.
Good luck!
1. It's the inside handle. The whole operation is on the inside of the door. You won't even look at the outside.
2. Pry out the whole plastic shell around the power window switch. It's actually easier. The clasps I was referring to hold the actual electric connector in place.
Hey looks like the parts are cheaper where you live. I wasn't sure what part I needed, or I probably would have ordered it online.
Good luck !
MB or Edmunds doesn't list the Nav system as an option.
Any comments from owners who have the Nav system in their 2003 E320...
Also I have the MB roof rack system with two bicycle holders. It is fairly easy to use. It requires a screwdriver to install. On the top of the door jams at the roof, there are arrows to indicate where to align the racks. After a couple of times, I can put the racks on in about 10 minutes. They come off quickly. I have not had any problems with the roof rack. I have not had any marking or scratching on the car. With the bicycle rack component, the strap on the fold up arm for attaching to the bicycle is a little difficult to undo. Also, the key is a little hard to insert and remove. Generally, I have been pleased with the rack. Sometimes it does whistle while driving. Since the trunk is so small, the rack system has come in handy for carrying oversized items. I do sometimes get looks from people that seem to question why am I carrying that stuff on an E320.
As far as my brother in law's car... the dealership came and picked it up at the office. Called him later that day and told him they were giving him back his car because the parts he need (SAM & Amp (the SAM needs to be programmed by the factory)) Unfortunately, neither part is available in the US and has to be shipped directly from Germany taking 10-14 working days. I would be crazy. He has to drive around for the next 2-3 weeks with a radio that just squeals. Today, his SRS Warning Lamp came on. The malfunction indicator says "requires dealer service". Amazing considering the car is less than 2 weeks old.
Steve
Any help here is appreciated, as I begin my next upgrade cycle...
Paul
I drove home from work last night in a pretty bad rain storm and at 65-70Mph, the car felt glued to the road. Very sturdy and confident.
The ride is different compared to the 1999. It's much tighter and responsive. It feels as if the wheel base is shorter... maybe it's not but it feels that way when you hit bumps. My 1999 had more of a slower, longer more cushy bounce. The 2003 has more of a BMW type ride. Barely any bounce, more firm but still gives a very nice comfortable ride.
The breaks seem much more sensitive compared to the 1999. Softer to the touch and much more accurate.
I really haven't tested the performance as of yet since I only have 700 miles and I don't want to start pushing it until after 1000 miles (as per the owners manual break in period)
Steve
Jean
How much more HP than the current version?
A great engine when mated to a 5-speed or manumatic tranny. But, nothing beats a V-8 for pure low end grunt (except maybe a V-12) and city driving.
Jean, the BMW will also feel more sure-footed on the highway at triple digit speeds. I Still prefer my E430 for comfort and routine driving around town. I hope you enjoy your new car.
Jean
My E2000 is running great and I still like
the style.
I looked at the new E but am willing to wait for the new Direct Inject engine. The new E did not move me enough to say I want it now.
Regards,
Joe
To me, they stop great but it seems like I need to put a little more pedal into it (press a little further) than I would otherwise. I think I need to take my wife's C out and do a comparison to be sure.
Can any 2003 owners comment on how much the noise
increases when traveling over coarse roads, such as worn asphalt? Most luxo cars I've tested are quite quiet over new asphalt, but some become really loud on worn/rough roads. The previous generation E-class had a resonant boom at 35-45 MPH. Lexuses, by contrast, suffered little noise
increase.
Also - anyone have any comments on the E320 with Airmatic Suspension? The E500 is overkill for my needs and the tires may be too aggressive for good noise control - so I'm wondering if the Air suspension will compensate for most of the body roll of the E320 standard suspension.
Having just discovered this group, however, I wanted to say a word about the postings by that ilxman fellow a while back. He was certainly obnoxious, but I think he said some very important things about the future direction of M-B that are critically important. I'm a gray-haired marketing consultant and I'd bet a dollar that this guy is an under-35, highly compensated business exec. What he said tracks exactly with the views of some of the most desirable demographic groups for a luxury brand like M-B: namely, BMW has been setting the bar for what the "best" driving experience should be for these youngsters for the last decade. To these people, BMW is the best "luxury" car marque (not just with "sports nuts"); M-B is the "best" only at the S-Class level, which is relevant to them only when they get old. In fact, the C-Class rates so far below the 3-Series that it's not even close.
Hence, BMW (and others who have focused on the post-baby boomers) has done a much better job in setting the standard for the younger crowd. M-B meanwhile, has done a fantastic job in catering to us baby-boomers. What that ilxman character is saying is that M-B had better not assume that his demographic cohort is just going to go from cars like the 3-Series to the E-Class just because of the power of the 3-pointed star--M-B is going to have to demonstrate a superior driving experience. But what I call "relaxing", his cohort calls "boring" and "not fun to drive". My 31 y.o. son (he and my 2 daughters are BMW fans) just showed my a review of the E500 in Car and Driver magazine where he noted that it was considered very nice but not up to the BMW 5-series standard. He also noted how M-B's highly touted new braking system failed to stop the car better than BMW or even the Lexus G430. He, too, then asked why the M-B cost $63k. I don't much care, but these types of reviews--monotonously showcasing BMW superiority at the 3- and 5-series levels--do filter out to the younger crowd over time.
In the end, ilxman called for better steering precision, simpler ergonomics, better road feel, and better quality control. I'll agree with him that those would be improvements. I have better road feel with my 380 vs. the E500--but I call that progress over the last decade in giving me the cocoon I crave; my children call it engineering out all the fun. What we saw with that ilxman episode, I believe, was nothing less than a generation gap exposed. As a 20-year M-B fan, I'd also challenge Stuttgart to start paying more attention to the younger crowd. Let's make M-B #1 across the board--as long as we don't forget about the M-B faithful that have been happy the past 20 years. [A good start would be taking some of that AMG know-how and putting it in the entry-level 320's and C-series.] Happy motoring!
You must have read a different article than I did. I don't recall that statement anywhere in the latest issue. I thought it was a very positive piece on the E500 IMHO.