Ford Crown Victoria and Mercury Grand Marquis Maintenance and Repair

vic2010

When the climate control is in the “Floor” position, air does come out from the floor vents. However, as a move the temperature lever from cold to hot the air no longer comes out through the floor vents but instead comes out hot from the upper air conditioner vents. Any ideas are appreciated.
Thank you
Vic

snorkelbobby

may be a vacuum leak. Vacuum controls vacuum motors that open & close diverter doors. 3 valves, one for inside/outside air (paasneger side floor area), one for floor defrost (Double action motor), and one for panel.

rapt0r

Hello My Friends,

I am about to buy a Ford Mercury Grand Marquis.
I already know one to buy, but theres a problem with the fuel pump. Of course i could buy a new one, in case. But i think its possible that the emergency shutdown was activated for some reason.

Does anybody know how to reactivate the fuel pump in this case?

rapt0r

bloodtodust

I changed the blown gaskets.It still leaked water into the oil. I took the heads off again, and had them resurfaced. I physicaly checked the cylinders when I had the heads off. They seemed fine with no cracks or scratches I put them back on wtih new gaskets. It still leaks water into the oil. I have heard that the intake manifold may need to be resurefaced also?

bloodtodust

ewforce

Car sat for several months. Worked just fine. Now, no start. Engine cranks but no fire. I suspect it's not getting fuel. Fuel shutoff is NOT tripped. Fuel pump fuse is NOT blown. There is NO spark but I suspect that's because there's no fuel pressure.

Another weird thing is the ODB2 code reader produces "Error" after trying to read any codes.

Any Ideas out there as to where to look?

ewforce

Mr_Shiftright

How charged up is this battery, or are you just jump starting it after a long sleep?

If you haven't done so, charge up this battery fully on a charger before you start diagnostics.

Here's a good TUTORIAL on no-starts to give you some ideas:
NO-START TUTORIAL

sprint230

Does your Grand Marquis have an oil cooler in the lower radiator hose? It is a metal tube in the lower hose that runs parallel to the radiator and is connected to the oil filter base by two rubber hoses. If it does you should check or replace it. We had quite a few Police cars with oil in the water and vice versa in the mid to late '90's due to leaks in the cooler.

shawman26

My 1997 Crown Vic had the ignition switch replaced/ repaired by adding an auxillary push start button instead of stock replacement.
The "economical " folks that did this gig returned it to me so that now the w wipers only work on one speed, reverse lights out, blinks dont work, and climate panel is knocked out.

Ive tried a new blinker stalk to no avail. Someone told me the actuator rod is not coming far down enought to activate these functions. Help, diagram, anything wld be great..

MY LUCK WILL RUN OUT! I'VE GOTTEN 3 WARNINGS SO FAR BY LOCAL PDs. Help!

Mr_Shiftright

Have it fixed properly. They obviously cut into the wrong wiring.

phickey15

I have a 1993 grand marquis, it runs fine but the shift lever will not go past N into park or reverse. When you try to do so it makes a hissing noise. The car will however shift into drive 1st, and 2nd. I have the complete repair manual for the car but cant seem to figure out the cause is or how to fix it. PLEASE HELP! Ionly have tomorrow and tuesday off to fix it and need all the advice/help and instructions I can get ASAP! I need all the help o I can get as this is my daily driver and need it to get to work! Thanks

Pat

phickey15

searchlight7

I have a 2000 Mercury Marquis LS with 70k miles on it that I purchased used.

Recently since the winter weather became colder, I noticed when I cold start the car in the morning, that after a few minutes of idling, I hear a loud fog horn type of noise eminating from the engine compartment. After I drive away, the noise disappears, and then may not reappear until a day or two later. The noise does not emerge when the engine is warm or hot.

I opened the hood, placed my ear against the air filter housing, and heard the sound coming from inside, along with a vibration.

I researched on the internet, and many people with the same problem on this model recommend cleaning or replacing the IAC valve.

I went to my local AZ, and picked up the part there, and replaced it myself. Replacing the two screws that hold the valve to the throttle body was a pain because the valve is mounted horizontally at the rear of the 4.6L engine. The top screw was easy to remove but the bottom was difficult because I had trouble manipulating my ratchet in that tight space. With the help of the AZ manager, we removed it to uninstall the old valve, and were able to retighten it for the new.

Today, I started the car and no noise, so I am hoping this was the solution to the problem.

Anyone had similar experience with their Marquis or Crown Vic?

shrimpsalad

Just got bad news that my frame on my 1989 Crown Vic is rotting out, I saw it. Like Filo dough after its in the oven near the driver side. the mechanic says the car is unsafe to drive...although the car runs great, and I dont FEEL like the car is unsafe what is the options to having this fixed, if it can be. Hope so, I pray it can be. I had it at a Ford shop, but they are are a dealership too. Should I bring it to a body shop to have a second opinion???

stever

A reporter would like to speak to a civilian driver of a Crown Vic, preferably a P71 (Police Interceptor). If you are not a police officer, and you own a Crown Vic, please send your daytime contact information to pr@edmunds.com no later than Thursday, May 10, 2012 at 10 a.m. Pacific/1 p.m. Eastern.

swschrad

there is no practical fix short of a total rebuild of the car by a specialty shop.

brianalex

Hi. I bought this LS with 25K miles recently in mint condition, very well maintained. I put new Michelin Symmetry tires (same as original) all around on the first day, just because of the age of the originals.
The problem is that I hate driving this car. It's like walking with a drunk. You have to constantly make corrections, nudge it this way,nudge it back the other way, stop at a light and start through it again- you have to make two corrections before you get through the intersection.
I had an alignment done. Everything was in order and very tight (as you'd expect with this mileage).
I read some reviews from 2001 and I read "handles like the USS Nimitz" and other derogarory comments, and I see that Ford spent millions upgrading to rack-and-pinion in 2003, so they must have been quite aware of the problem.
Do others experience this problem? Is there a solution? Maybe a steering geer from one with the handling pkg? Different tires? Change the alignment Caster or something?
Best car I've ever had but unfortunately I really hate the way it tracks! Thanks- BA

euphonium

Is there a solution?

Yes - it is driving & trying the car out BEFORE you pay for it.

bartbarter

I'll tell ya, if you've always driven rack and pinion cars a recirculating ball is a lot different. A problem? Cars have been using recirculating ball style systems since forever.

I've got a 03 and a 85 and the 03 is much tighter, but actually feels like it needs more correction at highway speeds. It's an impression thing - because there is a bit of slack in the old system, and very little in the new, the new feels twitchy. I can see why a younger driver would find the 01 a bit barge like. It is.

The only things I can think of is, you can have a Ford mechanic check the lash adjustment on the steering box (don't overtighten it!), or the big one - have a box from a P71 (police package) Crown Victoria fitted on it. The police steering boxes are a LOT tighter, and bolt right in (you might, might, need a fitting on the fluid lines, I can' t remember, but no big deal).

Most rebuilt boxes are NOT police package so be careful if you decide to go this route. It appears ACDELCO 360816569 *might* be correct - I'd call to verify. Iirc the police package boxes do not have a snap ring holding the output shaft seal, and the regular ones do.

It's possible that a loose suspension is adding to the slop impression as well. KYB gas-a-just shocks will stiffen these cars up nicely, and for a bit more use the P71 ones. I've also used cargo coils (variable rate) rear springs (very easy to change) in all my full size Fords, they really help flatten them out on long turns, like highway ramps. You can also swap police package front and rear sway bars onto it (they're bigger). To go whole hog have your control arm bushings upgraded to Energy Polyurethane

It's a great car. Good luck.

Bart

bartbarter

Ah. MOTORCRAFT Part # STG35RM, and I caught reference that these folks know the time: http://www.redheadsteeringgears.com/

no affiliation etc.

Bart

brianalex

I really appreciate the info Bart. I may try the steering gear.

The thing is I don't remember this during the brief test drive and I replaced the ancient tires the first day. I've added a few pounds pressure (39 lbs front)and that seems to help a bit.
My first car was a '64 Galaxie with 32K and I've had a 75 Olds Regency (455 ci) and never noticed this type of problem. But for the last 12 years I've been driving a Toyota Cressida Wagon that handled like it was on rails so maybe that "spoiled" me, haha. This Merc. is like a brand new car and the ol' lady is tickled pink with every aspect of it (she doesn't drive), so I will follow your suggestions and upgrade the shocks and maybe the gear. Thanks- Brian

bartbarter

You've had some nice cars!

Just a note - the suspension will make it feel tighter perhaps, but the only thing that will actually tighten it up is the box.

Also, upgraded rear control arms are available for the WATTS rear end and are supposed to make a HUGE difference - I'm looking forward to changing mine. When James May said it handled like it has a hinge in the middle, it's supposed to fix that.

Bart

brianalex

brianalex