Oldsmobile Aurora

hammen2

Technical Service Bulletin summaries can be obtained for free from the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration web site. You have to pay to get the full results, of course I'd find the problem from the summary, and then give the bulletin number to the dealership and let them look it up (they have subscriptions).

Go here:

http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/tsb/service1.cfm?SearchTopic=Vehicle

Hope this helps,

--Robert

hammen2

Garnes,

I know what you mean. I've got 54k on my '98 (about double what it had on it when I got it 18 months ago) and hope to keep driving it for a couple of years. I also have the extended warranty, so I should be good to go for that time. I tend to drive newer cars a lot more in the first year or so of getting them, then scaling back my driving.

I really, really, really want to keep my Aurora after I'm done paying for it. Thus, I really don't want to roll the odo over 100k mi. I know that, properly maintained, the car should be good for 200k+, but I have no intention of keeping it that long.

I know the new STS is coming and it's RWD, based on the Signa platform. I think it's going to be outside my price range. Certainly the current one is - at $50k, the only vehicle I would buy would be a 'Vette. I am going to need to stay in the $30-$35k range (after GM discount :-). Hopefully there will be more in this price range in the next 2-3 years. As I said in my earlier message, the Bonneville GXP V-8 was a pleasant surprise, not otherwise rumored in the car mags until its unveiling...

--Robert

garnes

I hear you about price. 50k for a car is a lot. That's why I think the slightly used route is the way to go.

I've seen some more GTO pictures. I'm not sure I'll like it. I really like the classy/sporty interior of the Aurora. If a car is totally "go fast" looking on the interior without some nice finishes, I'm not sure I'll like it. I think some real wood trim is welcome even on a sports car. That new STS might be the ticket.

Corsa told me they will be looking at applying their Caddy system to the V8 that will be available for the Bonneville. Cool.

hammen2

Garnes,

I hear you on the slightly used. Still hard to get a deal like the Aurora, though. I've only owned one new car in my life (my previous '96 Lumina). I usually buy used, but took advantage of the GM discounts after marrying my wife :-)

Re: the Holden interior, this picture (right-hand-drive) shows a pretty decent dash layout:

http://www.holden.com.au//images/uploads/gallery_images/monaro/Moanro_Dash.jpg

(note the typo in their filename - moanro :-)

If GM doesn't put any wood around it, you can bet a third party will. I still haven't succumbed to a third-party kit for my Aurora, but probably will.

I'd also love to put the Corsa on my Aurora, but funds preclude it right now (my wife is laid off from her job). Maybe in a year or two. Hopefully they'll still offer it. I'll look forward to when you dyno it...

--Robert

who knows the next STS is based on the SIGMA (not signa) platform, just spent too much time working on a Heidelberg SignaStation in the past week :-)

garnes

Thanks. I guess that interior looked OK. We'll just have to wait.

I got a dyno graph of the STS from Corsa. I scanned it and sent it to RJS. Maybe he'll post it on the mod board. It's a run in 3rd gear only. They eased it up to speed and then WOT after it went into 3rd. It probably gives a good idea of what is happening from 4000 rpm. The Aurora will just have smaller gains, but the STS gains were huge.

I won't be dyno testing the Corsa anytime soon or at least don't plan to. Same day back to back tests are really needed and that can't be done for this. Plus there is other info available like Corsa's results or RSM's exhaust results to give a good idea of what is happening.

Caddy needs to offer the new STS with a SC option. Oh yeah. They may do it.

pizza442

Think its time to do the O2 in my 95 at 74,000. Might help my surging problem, too. Question is-does the 95 have one or two sensors? I know things changed in 96 and they had more. And, is it possible to get to-to change it myself? If not, I will buy it (GM) and have my tech buddy at the dealer do it. Oh, and are they preheated for 95?
Thanks, Jay

pizza442

I have a loud "pop" from the front left when turning right up into driveways. Service writer at Buick dealer (Riviera supposedly has the same platform as Aurora?) says that they replace a lot of rubber strut mount bushings and thinks this is it. Any feedback on this one?
Jay

800wattaurora

I'm in the same boat as you guys, next car will be STS/GTO/BONNEVILE, might have to be two cars from now, for my price range, but but then the kinks should be worked out and the aftermarket parts booming, but those cars are on my list. Talking with my caddy service guy, he was telling me about the XLR I believe it's also the 4.4 and RWD/AWD but caddy is starting the V-series of performance caddies(Like CTS with 350 V8 and 6spd from vet cooming soon) the ELR will be supercharged the2nd year. I read that somewhere else, AutoWeekly,. Probablythe SC would work on the New Bonneville 4.4.

Hammen2, are you looking for a wood dash kit? They have them for both generations. Looks great in the Classic, see my site for pictures

http://www.exoticwooddash.com/oldsmobile.htm

Garnes, I'm SOOO Gelous of your Corsa exhaust. Do you just love it? Good news is that my lights aren't coming on that often now, thinking about just getting it anyways. Send me the picture of the Corsa STS dyno, I'll post it up for you.

Taylor

http://www.cardomain.com/id/800wattaurora

800wattaurora

Hammen2, what do you do that you deal with Heidelbergs? Pressman? I work in printing, I run one of our shops 6-color Mitsubishi with coater, mines a 20x28. Only Sheet-fed shop. Not bad for a 21 year old. No feeder or second man either, just me Taylor 1st pressman. I learned how to print on a Heidelberg GTO than a Heidelberg Speedmaster now I'm on a Mitsubishi F-1500.
The wonderful world of Litho

rjs200240

Didn't the Beach Boys write a song about that press?

"3 deuces and a 4 speed, and a 389"
"Rev it up, Rev it up, Heidelberg GTO"

nne3jxc

In this month's Road and Track magazine, there's an article about the Shelby Series 1 sports car. It uses the Aurora motor and they're getting 320hp out of it. (of course it doesn't weigh 4000 lbs, so it does 0-60 in under 5 secs, but also costs $140,000 plus!)
Here's a link to the Shelby site: Shelby American Series 1.

I would love to have 320 horses in my Aurora!

garnes

Well, you can have 280 to 290 HP and about the same for torque I guess (I think the Shelby has 290 ft-lbs as it has a cam for peak HP) if you upgrade the intake, Use the RSM 80 throttle body (and plenum), and put on the Corsa exhaust. It will cost about $138,000 to $138,500 less than the Shelby and get you about half way there on the HP increase and about even on the peak torque : )

rjs200240

It will cost about $138,000 to $138,500 less than the Shelby

LOL!

That Series 1 is definitely not tuned for as much torque (although with its weight it isn't as important). It makes 320hp at like 6500 rpm, and the torque peak is over 5 grand. nne3jxc, I'm surprised this is the first you've heard of the Aurora-powered Series 1. It's been around since about 1997 or so.

fjk57702

The peak torque is 290 ft-lbs@5000 - but there probably is no torque below 3000 RPMs. I am finding that the 275 HP 4.6 has gobs of torque from idle. I do not note any power surge from 3000 up like I did on my aurora. But then I haven't really pushed it yet since its still breaking in.

53rocket

Only I manage Customer Service nationally - not a press. But my brother is a web pressman...........

800wattaurora

Maybe's there more printers out there, handful on the caddy board at GM Forums

Shelby 1 is nice, gotta like Carol Shelby. In last weeks Auto Weekly 11-11-02, Mr. Shelby annouced that he will be releasing several new cars. The first one he's releasing is seen in the Movie, Gone in 60 seconds, Elenor.
A gorgous 67' GT500 Shelby Mustang. Very cool. Starts with 325hp for 80K than 430HP for 120K and 750HP for 150K on top of that comes with Nitrous as a package with 125hp, GO BABY GO button in my car would be so cool!

More info here, http://www.sandersonsales.com/eleanor.html

Taylor

nne3jxc

I heard of the Series one since it came out -- just for some reason I never picked up on the fact that it had the Aurora motor. I was surprised that I hadn't seen it mentioned here and figured I'd share the fun....

Garnes! LOL! $138,000 less than the Series 1! That was great!

gisom

There are 2 sensors in the classic. One is near the cat convertor and one is in the exhaust manifold in the rear of the engine about the center front. Hope that helps.

Greg

hammen2

I'm not a pressman, but I'm an IT geek for a printing company in the Milwaukee, WI metro area. A Heidelberg SignaStation is used for digital imposition of electronic files...

To keep this on-topic, the Aurora and several other Olds models merit a mention in this article about discounted, discontinued vehicles:

http://www.detnews.com/2002/autosinsider/0211/14/b01-10113.htm

Lastly, check out the new Malibu sketch on auto.com's front page today:

http://www.auto.com/art/2002/nov/14/malibu.jpg

Looks kinda new-Accord-ish to me. One of my co-workers has one. OK front end, nice interior, terrible rear. Did Honda hire the Impala designers?

--Robert

scott478

My '01 4.0 is pushing 60K. The pops in the front end occured around 40K when you turned the wheel either way. Got it fixed with new bushings/bearings on top of the struts at 45K, same thing happened at 56K but just when you turned right and just got them replaced again. This time with both tie rod ends. Retired the Michelin 235/55/17s with Dunlop Sport AP2s. The old tires were separating and wouldn't stay balanced. The Dunlops have a buzz around 65mph but other than that are smooth as glass. Anybody happy with any aftermarket extended warranties?

hammen2

Just started hearing a popping/clunking noise from the front end of the car. I tend to notice it more when slowing down/stopping. I'm due for an oil change in another 500 miles, *sigh*, so I'll mention it to the dealer.

I've got a $0 deductible 1Source warranty on my Aurora, and they've been great. I've had almost 2x in claims than what I paid for the warranty, and my dealer's had no issues with approval or payment.

http://www.1sourceautowarranty.com

Hope this helps (and no, I have no relationship with 1Source other than as a customer),

--Robert

stickking1

Hey everyone....do you know if there is a good level to leave the air shocks at. Is it 0 psi? Or more? Didn't see anything in the manual and figure its just for when you're carrying a heavy load, but I thought I would ask. Thanks!

javidogg

In Reply To:

Anybody happy with any aftermarket extended warranties?

________________________________________________________________________________________________________

I bought my extended warranty from GM when I purchased my 1999 Aurora back in February 28, 2002 I had to use the warranty for bigtime problems,

like my sunroof going south on me, the dealer replaced the whole sunroof with a new glass and internal mechanism,

Wiring under shift knob console replaced, so the red gear marker can light up,

My turn signal flasher went bad covered under warranty,

Also my front passenger window that had a 10 inch scratch from inside of the car replaced,

A knob that got loose for my heater control replaced,

A rear panel goldplated Aurora badge that came off while getting a hand carwash.

So I think I'm pretty satisfied with my extended warranty.

Hey scott you said you have 60K on your 2001 Aurora, you must do a lot of driving, cause I have 41K on my 1999 Aurora.

Peace.

http://www.cardomain.com/id/javidogg

pat

Be sure to check out the discussions on our Finance, Warranty & Insurance board. There is a wealth of information about warranties over there.

Henry

I knew the above post was coming.

Henry

Noise is gone. It was the compressor. It was replaced under warranty gold. I have to praise them.

pizza442

I kind of have the feeling that the strut mounts/bushings are not going to be covered under the usual "limited" aftermarket warranty. They already turned down my claim on the factory Delco/Bose CD player problem as radios are not one of the "specificaly listed items" though it strangely listed aftermarket radios under the "not covered" column. Warrantybynet.com did mine though I did not qualify for there top of the line package which continues the orig factory-type coverage-mine is a 95 and only had 58k on it 16 mo. ago when I purchased it.

Henry

Should have gone Warranty Gold. I have a 95 and they gave me their top of the line bumper to bumper last year and I had about 68k on it then.

larryfl

I messed up. My '95 now has about 95K on it. I tried to get a warranty on it a few months back, with just over 90K. No one that I can find will cover it. If any one does know a company, please let me know.

So far, after my 24/24K GM bumper-to-bumper ran out six months ago (with only one $150 claim) I've had to replace the water pump and the radiator. A/C compressor now is toast. Things are getting expensive.

rjs200240

I was just perusing GMBuyPower to see what '03's were near me. About 3/4 of them were White Diamond. I wonder if that is a real popular color for them? It's a neat color with an interesting pearlesence (sp?). I also noticed that the nav system now has Bose speakers/amps. That's nice. It would be sort of nice to get the last of the Aurora's, but we really aren't in a position for that. I guess they'll still be making them for another half-year, though. I have a feeling I won't care for the Collector's Edition. Maybe they should just make like 107 of them, one for every year Olds will be around. They made 500 of the Intrigue, and I think they had a lot of trouble selling them.

The Bourdeaux Red is listed as a new color, and looking at the sample it seems a bit darker than my Cherry color. The Steel Blue color looks weird. It's hard to picture a car in that color. Has anyone seen one?

I wonder what a White-Diamond with the Dark Gray interior would look like... Toss in a nav system, the same options as my current car, and the minor engine refinements, about $5,000+ off the sticker, and maybe it would be worth checking out. Actually, I really like my red, though.

The 2003 can push over $40,000 with options now. The 2002 couldn't (not counting engine heaters and stuff). But I guess it's only a price difference of about $300 when loaded, and the 2003 has Bose with the Nav. It's just interesting that it crosses the $40K limit. I guess that would make it a better car in C&D's opinion.

Hey, did you know that the new Aurora weighs less than a Ferrari 456 GTA? The classic weighs less (a lot less) than a Mercedes SL55 AMG, and the SL 500. Our cars really don't seem so heavy when you don't compare them to tuna-can japanese cars.

garnes

"It's just interesting that it crosses the $40K limit. I guess that would make it a better car in C&D's opinion. "Our cars really don't seem so heavy when you don't compare them to tuna-can japanese cars."

LOL.

My 98 stickered over 39k. The new ones are an incredible buy these days.

fjk57702

The first generation Aurora was in the Park Avenue class. Olds still had the Olds 88 model for the lower end. The current generation Aurora was to include the Olds 88 model (in the form of the V6) and had to be priced lower. I think that they hoped to sell more of the V8s with the lowered pricing. I did sit in a 2003 Aurora before buying the Seville. It did not have the nav though and I'm not sure what it did have. The Seville seemed like a much nicer car (as it should).

rocket3_50

Like many Aurora owners, I'm impressed with how quiet our car is. I knew I'd have to replace my Aurora's tires in the not-too-distant future, and I wanted to get the quietest ones possible while still preserving wet weather safety. Over the last year and a half I've had to put new tires on three other vehicles and I conducted a subjective test of how quiet other tires are. I looked over TireRack's survey ratings of tires and put on the following all season tires that seemed to me to offer primarily good wet weather and snow traction:

1993 Ford Taurus - BFG Aquatred 3
1997 Mercury Sable - Bridgestone Turanza LS-T
1999 Mercury Sable - Dunlop SP Sport A2

I consider these three cars very similar in size and sound insulation and tire size, and so, I hope, a pretty good test. My subjective findings are as follows:

a) The Dunlops are the loudest. Even at low speeds and straight ahead driving, they make a noise with a timbre that is almost a quiet howl- - this is just easy rolling tread noise. I really noticed it, and didn't like it.
b) The Aquatreds and the Bridgestone Turanzas are about the same loudness, with the Turanzas maybe just a little bit quieter. At this point my impressions are pretty subjective.
c) So my conclusion, at least for now, is that I'll put the Bridgestone Turnazas on my 2001 3.5L Aurora when the time comes (~31,000 miles on the OEM tires now). Curent tire wear has been acceptable and even on the OEMs. All four sets of tires have been road force balanced by Discount Tires here in Charlotte.

The noise from the Dunlops is significantly different from the other two brands, and even different from the OEM tires. At low speeds and at highway speeds I tried to break the sound I heard into three components - engine noise, wind noise, and tire noise. It was difficult for me to break it out into three components under all conditions. For example, for the three Ford cars, it seems that wind noise and engine noise obscure the tire noise component at highway speeds.

Anyway, that's my subjective report for any of you Aurora owners thinking about new, quiet tires. Has anyone else tried similar (or different) testing?

Ken

53rocket

Several months ago, I remember seeing a post for calculating axle ratios with different size tires. There was a link provided that I bookmarked but lost when I "got the blue screen of death" and had to rebuild my OS. I've tried to find it but can't (I think the info was within a text message and therefore not searchable). Can anyone provide this or similar link?

My other vehicle is a dog even though I've added another 50HP and need to look at tire sizes or an axle ratio change. I'm sure that some of the problem is related to getting spoiled by the Aurora's performance. As they say "I have the need for speed".

800wattaurora

Here you gou 53Rocket,

http://gs.tolan-hoechst.com/tirecalc.htm

Taylor

53rocket

800........

Thanks, that's the one I was looking for. This one is much easier because it doesn't require you to determine tire diameter.

scott478

Thanks for the insight on the warranties. I've got right at 58K now with the GM new car 60K warranty and was thinking of throwing the dice without a warranty...might not be a good bet. Really need to keep the car another couple of years and by then it will be pushing 140K. Bought it with that in mind, anyway. Love the car, best ride I ever had. Have to have four doors for work (they kick in some money) and haven't found a car I like any better that I come close to being able to pay for. Do have the Bose CD and only problem I have had is it quit ejecting CDs on a trip. Traded it out for another one and realized it was the CDs I was playing (CD-Rs), must have been thinner than normal. Just had to keep pushing the eject button and they would work their way out. Stereo kicks. No other problems 'till a couple of months ago. Has stalled five times at red lights. Need to get it in, I guess. This coincides with a KW air filter but I can't imagine it being the cause. Had put in a Fram the first time around and the edge split making the air cleaner useless. Second time this has happened, first time on a Trooper with a Fram filter. Cleaned the throttle plate and no help. Maybe time for plugs? No miss that I can see. Idling at about 600rpm. Just quits. Probably one more trip to the dealer. See what happens.

mike98c

See numerous previous posts on fuel pressure regulator and it's replacement on the problems and solutions board. Not a difficult operation it's right under engine cover if you're not covered but you're covered so what the heck. Many people have had this problem, but don't let it slide to long, if the car begins to backfire you could damage the EXPENSIVE plastic resin intake manifold.

Henry

Happy Thanksgiving everybody.

blk97aurora

I have observed two distinct designs for the 2001 and later Aurora trunk lids: 1-piece and 2-piece. By that I mean that one design has a separate piece around the perimeter of the license plate; the line between the two pieces is easily visible. The other design seems to be one piece. At first I guessed the difference to be between 3.5 and 4.0 since the latter has an aluminum trunk lid. But I have now seen both 3.5 and 4.0 Auroras with the 2-piece design. So maybe the difference occurred between model years. Does anyone know the story here?

rjs200240

was for 3.5's. That's right that the lighter trunklid is aluminum and on the 4.0. So the two-piece must have been the original "vision" and the one-piece came about because the 4.0 didn't make weight.

I had thought I'd seen a release at some point about the aluminum trunk being dropped, but now I can't find it. So it could be the 2003's that have the two-piece trunk now, or perhaps it's just some people with 3.5's that slap on the "4.0" badge...

travisgregg

I am close to buying a 1998 loaded except heated seats and upgraded stereo with 34k miles for maybe $9500. good deal???

What should i beware of from now till 80k miles. Any major area of concern ? ie: transmission, water pump, timing belt etc. thanks very much for any advise

fjk57702

I would not worry about the timing belt too much. Water pumps may start leaking but the repair is about $250.

hammen2

Travisgregg,

That sounds like a pretty good deal to me.

I would immediately change the serpentine belt and the water pump belt. Parts are $30-$40 and, assuming the originals are still in the car (5 years old), it's time. Best not to be stranded...

Other common issues are water pump (mine failed under warranty at about 34k mi) and alternator (mother-in-law's failed at 36k mi under warranty). The Fuel Pressure Regulator tends to go on these cars as well.

I cannot stress enough the value of obtaining a good extended warranty for a complex vehicle like the Aurora. I've got one and have had 3 major repairs done since April - AC compressor (a weak spot on Auroras - $1275!), an idle air control motor ($300), and an electronic control module in the dash ($500+). The Aurora V-8 is pretty bulletproof (being of Northstar heritage, it does burn some oil), but there has been the occasional transmission failure ($3k).

You really, really, really should look at a third-party extended warranty, like 1sourceautowarranty or warrantygold. I would bet you'll get your money back (I paid $1100 for a 0 deductible, 5 extra years, 100k mi extended warranty, and it's obviously paid for itself :-)

Hope this helps,

--Robert

P.S. Somewhere on this board I posted a message with a list of "common Aurora problems". Of course, the WebX search feature on this site is lame, so it's difficult to find...

pat

the search features have been improved lately -- check out the "Advanced Search" and see if that helps.

chstr1000

Just bought a 96 Aurora. Has 76000 miles on it, bought it for $6500. I thought it was good deal. Book value at credit union is $9700. I really like the car so far, but recently it started missing while driving, but not idling. It was not consistent, it would come and go. Just few days ago, missing got so bad the check engine light came on. Pulled up to stop light and car stalled for no reason, just like you shut the key off. It started right back up. Check engine light when out and it started running great again. I had AutoZone do and engine diagnostic. It showed only that there was an engine misfire. The guy there thought I probably had gotten some bad gas. (I did run 10 gallon of 87 octane in it before I realized what I was doing). He recommended changing the filter.
I was relieved, BUT then it died at idle 3 more times on me that night before I got home. It also died 3 or 4 times on my wife the next day.
I noticed the fuel pressure regulator mentioned and thought I would write in for anyones thoughts. How hard is this to change, and how expensive. Would appreciate any help. Thanks!

hammen2

Chstr1000, I would definitely start by changing the fuel pressure regulator. I understand it's not a terrible install to do yourself; since I have my warranty, I won't have to.

AutoZone shows a Sorensen FPR for $86.99, but it's special-order. The GM part number is 17113346. GMPartsDirect.com shows it listing for $66.63, wholesale $46.64, their cost $33.31.

Hope this helps,

--Robert

hammen2

I take back what I said about the search feature.

The message I posted with the "common problems" is 3246. If there's any way this can be copied (not moved) over into the "Problems and Solutions" board in the Owner's Club, that would be helpful.

Thanks,

--Robert

hammen2

Also thought a little more about your stalling situation. If the FPR doesn't fix it, cleaning or replacing the EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) valve would be the next thing I'd look at...

Hope this helps,

--Robert

rjs200240

Well, I saw probably my 4th new Aurora at night the other night. And, just like every other one, this one had its rear fog lights on. I hope none of you all drive around all the time like that. They are incredibly bright and annoying to other drivers. I've even seen some Aurora's driving around during the day with them on. Maybe if there were more new Aurora's on the road, then these owners would see how annoying the rear fogs can be. I guess some people don't realize they are only for really rainy/foggy weather when you can barely see regular rear lights.

A few weeks ago I went and test drove an SLS with halogen headlights and an STS with HID headlights to see what the difference was (my Dad is shopping for a Seville, and we are pretty thorough). I was really impressed with the beam pattern of the HIDs. The entire beam was practically the same brightness. It was like the very center of my beams, but whiter and that brightness everywhere (maybe slightly brighter). For some reason the SLS, which still has the same projector beams, had a really crappy beam pattern. It had tons of hot-spots. My halogen projector beams have a very nice pattern. I don't know what was up with the SLS's. This experience has got me thinking about an HID upgrade. I believe they are painless in that you don't splice any wires. You just have to mount the ballasts somewhere. It seems like the Aurora was made for HID lows. It has projector beam lows (reflectors aren't good for HID because you shine a lot of light in oncoming traffic's face) and the low beams stay on while the highs are on. Because HID takes a second to fire, if the lows shut off when the highs are on, then there will be a gap of no headlights when you turn the highs back off. I probably won't get them for a while as prices keep dropping, and also more quality manufacturers are getting into the game (ideally I'd like a kit from Sylvania).