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Comments
Sorry, couldn't resist.
Yeah, another Aurora. Sure looks better and it is roomier than a CTS. Wouldn't I still have a lot left over - even with the 4.0?
For that money, where can you get a V8 like that, and luxury/sport mixed together? The Lincoln LS has gone well over 40 I think while the Aurora can still be had for well under 40 - right?
stickking1, the '95 is an OBD-I car with an OBD-II style connector. The AutoXray XP240 with a GM Specific OBD-II Style Connector will work. At www.autocheckup.com, it is product code 90112.
dtlr077, Garnes and 800Watt have actually put the Corsa system on their classic Auroras. There is nothing different or special about the '95 as far as I know. So it is quite possible and they can give you the details. The system will have to be adjusted slightly, so you will likely need a shop to do it, but it doesn't sound too tricky.
fjk, the new Aurora's trip computer is displayed and used differently (different buttons) but I believe it has all the same fields as the classic does. Oil pressure is one of them.
Stikking, I think you'd need more than just a few extra thousand. A base SLS stickers at $46K. And that would have no memory seats, no rainsensing wipers, and no HomeLink. And not to mention the 16" wheels, touring rubber, and low speed limiter.
By the way, got the OBDII to work on my car (the 95). Looks like I'm in the market for a new EGR valve. That'll explain why my mileage has gotten so bad over the last month. I'll be back in the shop again this Sunday...at least this is an easy job.
Sounds like $40,000 to me.
>warranty runs out.
Oh, ain't that the truth. My '98 is in the shop, again. I'm starting to feel like Zincster...
Took it in Thursday a.m. for an oil change, and to investigate a coolant leak/possible bad heater core (I've had an intermittent coolant smell in the car for the past couple of weeks - seems to only be noticeable when the temps are above 30 degrees, which hasn't been often here in Wisconsin).
Got a call within the hour, confirming a small leak in a crossover coolant pipe, but also asking if I've noticed any oil puddles or leaks from the car. Nope, though I did have to add 1 1/2 quarts since the last oil change - the only time I've had to (despite all the other discussions here, my Aurora has apparently not been consuming oil, at least, not until recently).
Well, it turns out the rear crankshaft seals are shot. The dealer says the job takes 16 hours of labor (nearly $1300 - before parts!), including dropping the engine and tranny. My extended warranty company wanted all of my oil change receipts (they asked for 8 for the 32k I've put on it - I gave 'em 10). They are sending an inspector out on Monday (grr, I had everything faxed to them by 3 p.m. on Thursday). Just lots of stress over the weekend that I didn't need (though I can't see how the warranty company can deny this repair, since I have been meticulous about maintenance and recordkeeping. What could I have purposefully done to cause these seals to fail?)
To make a great week even better, the thermostat went on my wife's GTP on a trip on Friday night (175 degrees is a little low, plus the defrost on full blast couldn't keep the windows from fogging up in dry 30 degree weather). So, I'm driving a base-model rental Impala w/289 miles on it. Plus, I couldn't get on-line until this morning, due to EarthLink DSL being down in Milwaukee/Chicago... *sigh*
I love my car, but not the way she treats me. I'm starting to think about using my GM Card dollars, my GMS discount, and the incentives out there to look at a 2003... even though I do not find the car as visually distinctive/attractive, and feel that the platform is a little decontented from the first-generation, it's hard for me to get excited about any other car that GM offers (and I'm spoiled by the luxury of the Aurora). While the jury is still out, the new Aurora does not seem to have as many recurring quality issues (most complaints have been the ISS lube and the flickering lights/alternator issue on the V-6 powered ones, which obviously I wouldn't be looking at :-)
Missing my Aurora,
--Robert
Poor baby had her transmission removed. She told me it hurt but that she didn't cry. She was a trooper! I'm so proud of how the car is keeping a postive frame of mind during this difficult multi-operation repair.
If you like I can post the car's mailing address. Better still, don't waste the paper and the postage. Go out and do something nice for your Aurora. Show it that you care. Show it that it is appreciated. Remeber, you still have yours. Think of Henri, a man separated from his Aurora. Think of how lucky you are.
Go . . . Do it Now before you forget
Where is she parked?
Have you seen her ?
Tell me have you seen her?
Oh I hear her roar as the cold winds blow
On the Street
Music on the Radio.
Have you seen her?
Tell me have you seen her?
Hammen2 - PLEASE clarify "they asked for 8 for the 32K...."
Does this mean they wanted to see 8 oil changes for 32k of mileage???? I hope not. What if you simply follow the oil life monitor? Yikes. Just following the owner's manual will put you out of compliance with them. Who is your warranty company?????? I better call my company to find out what the deal is and get it in writing if it is not already in the language somewhere.
Just a note - I was pricing a warranty for our 01 Impala (warranty gold) and found out that it was almost as much as my Aurora warranty. "Oh - no, you got yours just in time, we raised the Aurora warranty a lot recently" They wanted over $2k for a 100,000 mile - no deductible - everything covered warranty. Wow. I paid 1,425 for the same policy a few months ago.
P.S. The Collector's Edition info is up on the Olds site now.
My extention piece from Corsa showed up earlier this week, so I decided to put it on yesterday. I loosened up the exhaust, snugged up the resonator and the intermediate pipe, and placed the extension on to measure where to cut it. I only needed an extra inch or so just so all the pipes would overlap a bit more. So, I measured it and then began to cut. And I cut and I cut. I was using a chain/strap type exhaust cutter. Well, I cut and cut into the night, never severing the pipe. I did eventually ruin the cutter, though, and went to the auto store for another. On the way, I stopped at a local exhaust shop who informed me they can't cut stainless because it is too tough. I tried cutting the pipe more that night, eventually getting through it in about 1/3 of the pipe. My hands were sore, blistered, and depleted of strength, so I called it a night. This morning I tried again for about an hour before going to Sears to see if a) their auto center could cut it or b) they had something better. They couldn't and they didn't. So I attacked the pipe again, full of frustration and pain. I finally severed it after about 6-8 hours of rotating a cutter around it (and trying to hold the 5" piece while doing so). My whole body aches, and my hands are covered in blisters and torn skin. I still have to put it all together. It is tough to fit the once-tightened pipes back together, but I eventually do it. The tips now hang a bit lower, which looks a tad less cool but will be much easier to clean. They still are pushed a bit to the passenger side, but what can I do (I will try a pry bar eventually).
All the pain, suffering, and effort are instantly worth it with a turn of the key. No water drips from the fittings, and the sound is all from the rear. My wife and I go for a drive to experience the sound. It is noticeably reduced in regular driving. There is absolutely no little note while cruising, or even while accelerating lightly. To both of us, the car is indistiguishable from stock, and clearly quieter than before (not that it was loud). The sound is all from the rear, and it is almost too quiet when I punch it. I am totally amazed (and I've been living with this amazing exhaust for over a month already). Corsa is incredible!! The most unrestrictive exhaust you could ask for, yet it is almost too quiet!!
I gained a healthy respect for the toughness of stainless steel (I will never attempt to cut it myself again), and I also have witnessed a substantial raising of the bar for performance exhaust systems. I don't think I could ever settle for a Flowmaster or Borla system again, unless they too raise their game. Corsa is the new benchmark in exhaust performance.
RJS - awesome.
Mike98c - never underestimate the determination of RJS.
It didn't really bother me because I have always been meticulous about keeping receipts and changing oil every 3000-3500 miles.
I will do so tomorrow and get some clarification on the oil change issue. I also need some clarifications as to why some of my repair isn't going to be covered by my "$0 deductible" exclusionary warranty (the inspector was out today - 1Source is going to cover about $1300 of the repair, but I'm still liable for about $350. For example, the dealership says that the AC compressor comes off with the engine, so they need to drain, flush and then refill the system when the repair is complete, but that's not covered - $100). Ditto with a few other misc. parts (oil manifold?, $105) and fluid refills. My dealership has my copy of the warranty, so I can't check the exclusions against the items that they aren't going to cover.
Oh well, $350 is better than $1500+, though I can't say I'm really happy with my car. My extended warranty has now paid more than 3x in repairs than I paid for it. Garnes, I can see why Warranty Gold just cranked up their extended warranty costs on Auroras - my suspicion is, as the '98's and '99's go off factory warranty, the extended warranty companies are taking a bath on these cars.
The dealer hopes to have my car back on Wednesday. With any luck, my wife's GTP will be back tomorrow (though I have more confidence in my Olds dealer than the @#@# Pontiac one, to actually fix the car).
RJS, my comment about the decontenting of the new vs. Classic Aurora was not referring to features, but the actual platform (G-body) the car is based upon. The original Aurora and Riviera were the first cars on the new lux G-body, adopted by the Seville and Park Avenue in '98. The new Aurora rides on a lower-cost derivative platform that is shared with the Bonneville and LeSabre, among others.
Remember, the new Aurora was not supposed to be an Aurora, but the 88 replacement - GM cut the budget for the new Aurora, and the 88 replacement took the Aurora's name.
Well, here's to hoping no more unscheduled repairs for a year or so. I am concerned that the warranty company is not going to be very quick in authorizing future repairs.
*sigh*
--Robert
I'm ready to go for the RSM throttle body. I want to get a used TB from a salvage yard (or wherever) to send in for the core charge so I can keep my original TB, just in case. I think I remember your writing that there is another piece behind the TB that can/should also be resized to 80mm. What is that called and how can I recognize/describe it? Do you have any advice before I order?
Beware of the %#^* shipping charges going to Canada. They hit stuff going back and forth with crummy taxes and stuff. The shipping added up to another $50 total or so. Oh well.
Here is a link to the caddyinfo site where the TB job including the middle piece is shown with lots of pictures. The text and pictures are a little jumbled - but good enough. Let me know if you have any other questions. I thought this mod helped every bit as the air box mod and K&N - probably a bit more. For some reason it helps a lot even at much lower rpms too. The throttle response seemed a lot better.
http://caddyinfo.netgetgoing.com/reviews/tb.htm
When you do the job just let me or Taylor know and we can answer any questions. Remember to do the TB position learn procedure - it's on the site I linked to. I think pinching the hose on the engine side that runs through the TB bottom really helped keep the job clean. Also when you are in there with everything off, it's a good opportunity to blow out the intake manifold with the TB cleaner. I shot a bunch in there - and then changed the oil a day or two later.
I think you are right about them taking a bath. These cars are just very expensive to repair. They really did not want to cover a car past 100k either. It was something stupid like $2,500/yr after 100k. I think the legend of Henry and Zinc got around.
Hammon2 - This same warranty company treated me the same way. Mine was a $50 deductable, but I NEVER got out of there with just 50. For instance, if the repair required some major work and the shop recommended replacing, say, 6 bolts while they were inside the engine, the warranty company made me pay for the bolts. If fixing an A/C leak required filling the A/C w/ freon to find the leak, then evacuating the system to fix it and refill, the warranty company would only pay for one "fill". It was amazing.
BTW, if they are even still in business, the warranty comnpany was WINNS. RUN - DO NOT WALK away from that company. I wound up having to take them to court and losing the use of my car for 6 months once to get them to pay according to the agreement.
....If you guys think the Aurora is expensive (and it is), try a 1st Gen Q45!!
Larry
The extended warranty is really an insurance policy. My feeling is that if the car has been good during the factory warranty period, then it should continue to be reliable. However, the northstar engines should probably be covered by extended factory warranty if you are going to keep the car. If I could have extended my 98 Aurora's coverage another 3 years (instead of just 2), I would have probably done that. I am not sure what I will do with the Seville, I have time to decide.
The customers at waraanty gold complained so much about them (and probably law suits), that they were fired by warranty gold.
Now I like my warranty company and they are a pleasure to deal with. So I caution you guys to call the warranty company and ask them who administered their warranty claims before you buy a policy.
Don't get burned the way I did. Why do you think it took over 6 WEEKS for my car to be repaired? At least half the time was spent arguing with the warranty admistrator about oil changes on a transmission job.
$40k for a new car---only one choice right now, a 2003 Aurora. I'm talking to a dealer, which is about 80 miles North of Wichita, KS, that has one which I described earlier. I haven't been able to drive up there, I'm afraid to because I know what I will be driving home if the price is right. We can always dream!!!!!!!!!
Thanks for the additional info and advice. One thing I do not yet understand: does RSM install a larger (80mm) throttle plate (butterfly)? If not, what is it that is enlarged from 75-76mm to 80mm? Given the taxes and shipping costs to and from Canada, would it make financial sense to try to find a competent machine shop in US to do the job?
As long as they know how to disassemble and reassemble the TB, I suspect a machine shop could do it. My buddy used to work with that type of equipment - building machines. When I showed him the finished TB we joked about how he probably could have done it. However, if he screwed up (maybe there is a trick or two as to exactly where to bore it - they say they individually assess each one for what is possible. Mine was 79.5 - Taylor's was 80) then you are out a TB.
Thanks for both replies. Last night I went looking on eBay for a throttle body to use as a core. Couple of Cad Northstars caught my eye, but no Auroras.
One thing I found surprising is that 75mm is fairly large. The 5.0 Mustangs use 70mm.
If they are the same - there you go.
Yeah, 75 is big. The new VVT Northstar with the electronic throttle has a 80mm TB for better air flow, so it's kind of cool to see the GM engineers seemingly confirming what the gear head types found out.
I'd have to disagree. I have owned a 93 Q45, a 96 Aurora, and now a 95 Q45. In 6 years and 110K miles of Q45 ownership, I had to replace a water pump and A/C compressor. In 18 months and 14K miles of Aurora ownership, I had to replace an alternator, fuel pressure regulator, A/C compressor, a wheel bearing (which is amazingly easy to change), power window switch, and several other things I'm thankfully forgetting. When I got rid of it, the traction control light was permanently on, the turn signal wouldn't blink (and no it wasn't a bulb or the flasher)and the sunroof was making terrible noises and wouldn't stop at the proper time when it was opened and closed. 90-92 Q45s have more issues, but even then it's probably a push compared to an Aurora for reliability. Late 93-95 Q45s are bulletproof. The transmission and timing chain guide issues don't exist for those cars. Any of them are a lot more fun to drive than an Aurora having owned both.
My '92 Q45 cost MORE THAN $30,000(!!!) in service work during the 36 months that I owned it. Granted, it had 89K miles when I bought it, and it had 130K when I traded it, but DAMN! Thankfully, my warranty company and Infiniti paid for most of that. (Infiniti even paid $6000 for a trans, radiator and ECM at 94K miles, due to known defects).
While my '95 Aurora hasn't been completely trouble free, after 47K miles of Aurora ownership, I certainly wouldn't call the dollars spent on her excessive. I expect an older high performance car to have higher than average maintenance costs anyway.
And I'd agree with mike98c that it could partly depend on "the luck of the draw". I will say - after my experience with the Q - that I was much more careful about the service history when buying the Aurora, and I will be from now on when buying used cars. While the Q looked and ran great, it obviously wasn't properly serviced and I got the brunt of it, not the original owner.
I do agree with you that my '92 Q45 was much more fun to drive, though. What a great driver's car! With 3 kids and one starting college, though, I just couldn't afford it.
Larry
Driving me crazy. The stall occurs when cold but engine warms to about 200. Stalls once or twice at stop and then is fine. Have tried all grades of fuel to no avail.
Anybody have a similar problem? Thanks.
"#600 of 686 An End To The Stalling.... by ckirkpatrick Feb 06, 2003 (6:51 pm)
I went to get my Aurora today after waiting nearly 4 days for the dealer to fix it. The bill was $270 to replace the Neutral switch, and to remove, clean, and reinstall the IAC. The service guy said that one of the pins on the Neutral switch connector had been bent and wasn't making contact. How this affected the stalling I will probably never know - and perhaps the simple cleaning of the IAC was the cure. In any event, this Aurora owner is once again happy, and I hope anyone else with the same problem can benefit from my experiences. Thank you all for your help."
Wow, sounds like you had a bad experience. I've heard of people with 90-92s having some expensive repairs, but I think you may have set some kind of a record. If you're ever interested in owning another, 94-95s really are bulletproof. All the things that went wrong on the early ones were fixed. Unfortunately, they softened the cars up somewhat, and changed the seats (which were the best sedan seats I've ever sat in), but they are still a a great car and a steal for <$10K these days. I may actually be selling mine soon to get a bigger family hauler and will miss it greatly.
Wow, sounds like you had a bad experience. I've heard of people with 90-92s having some expensive repairs, but I think you may have set some kind of a record. If you're ever interested in owning another, 94-95s really are bulletproof. All the things that went wrong on the early ones were fixed. Unfortunately, they softened the cars up somewhat, and changed the seats (which were the best sedan seats I've ever sat in), but they are still a a great car and a steal for <$10K these days. I may actually be selling mine soon to get a bigger family hauler and will miss it greatly.
Enjoy the spring everyone
Roger
I won an eBay auction for a Cad 4.6 intake (tb, manifold, fuel rail, etc). From my research all this stuff is same as Aurora, so I'll have a core for the RSM 80mm TB and mounting plate. I'll also have the opportunity to examine the intake manifold to determine if there may be performance gains possible by cleaning up the airflow passages.
Bad news-I asked my service buddy at my olds/caddy dealer if they could get me an autobaun package upgrade. Won't do it. He said would ask one of the techs to do it on the side for me. Nope, tech said it's too big of a job. Gotta open up tranny, dosent want to do it. No Autobaun for me.
Henri
SO. Just got the Aurora back from the body shop after a parking lot fender blender (on the new, 6 week old paint !#@%!!).
See's looking great and driving like a dream. Now if I can just get that oil leak stopped...
1996 Eldorado. I am curious that RSM does not show a ported intake manifold on their website since they do the heads and throttle bodies. I figure to see if I can port one myself; like you, I cannot aford the cost of the heads plus installation.
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That manifold is some sort of plastic and I thought it was pretty smooth to begin with. Maybe not. Please let us know what you find out/determine.
Hey after the intake, even if you don't do a Corsa, you could probably realize some great gains by replacing the exhaust with 2.5 inch pipe even if it's aluminized regular stuff) and doing the mufflers that larryfl did (dynomax??). I'll bet that set-up would perform extremely well.
Good luck.