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Comments
I think what I'm grumbling about is replacing the frame with U-channels pressed into the floorboard in the name of fuel economy. That's an oversimplification, I know. I read that major body work has become less common because it's more difficult. Collisions that in the past just needed Bondo and paint now require a chassis bending jig to move the wheels back to where they belong. Too often the result is a car that's unsafe to drive. Insurance companies prefer to call it unrepairable and not take the risk. They're becoming disposable.
I think the drivetrain/suspension problems were all rolled together (at least for Baltimore and the Tauruses). Jump a couple of curbs, and you can foul up a lot of stuff up front on a FWD car.
I think you are right, and the cops tended to feel that way too. The Impala was supposed to have fixed that weakness, with an HD cradle and suspension for the 9C1 (police) cars. Maybe it has and now there are other problems showing up. The complaints for the Impala around here concerned mainly the transmissions, and lots of other little bugs (electrical, I believe, that didn't take cars off the road).
The battery is smaller in size than the original one, but once tightened into place does not move. What does concern me is it is labeled 630 Crank Amps. Is that enough? or is that a direct replacement for the old Battery?
Next question is about the spark plugs. I bought a set of plugs, and know that I have to gap em. What is the proper gap on plugs for the 3.4l Base Impala? and any opinion on replaceing the wires at the same time? I wanted to keep up with preventative maint. on this car and not sure what else needs to be done (aside from regular oil changes, tranny flush at 75k miles, new tires , brakes and rotors at 50k miles).
The reason I'm answering you is about the plugs. What you're going to do isn't trivial. The heads are aluminum and there are rules that must be followed. You should try to get servicing literature about replacing the plugs before you start.
1. You're probably supposed to do the job while the engine is hot (if that's what the instructions say).
2. Apply anti-seize compound to the threads before screwing them in. Buy a tube of it at a parts store.
3. You must use a torque wrench to tighten them. This may be difficult to do in the rear bank because you don't have much room to work. If you don't have a wrench or the room to use it or don't know the correct torque don't do it yourself. To get to the rear ones, I've always removed the upper mount (also called the torque strut or dog bone) and pulled the engine forward with a rope to get space back there.
If the wires are undamaged they're probably okay. A replacement set of that quality could cost $100 from a dealer. They're usually replaced singly as needed these days, not in sets. They're weak so don't pull on the wire, only the boot.
Plugs are pre-gapped these days. The gap is probably at the end of the part number. The emission label under the hood should give it to you.
Forgive me if you knew all this but I felt like I had to say it.
Thanks,
Drew
Here are a couple of observations on your first post.
1. The plug replacement interval is 97,500 mi. Why do you want to do it now, anyway?
2. The transaxle fluid change interval is 50K mi. under severe conditions, otherwise not at all. Fluid change means remove the pan, change the filter replace the pan and add fluid. It isn't a flush. When a shop advertises a flush they mean stick a hose into the filler pipe, suck out as much as they can and replace it. That shouldn't be done because it doesn't service the filter and it can stir up sediment and send it to places you don't want it to go. It's also less work for them. If you're going to change it, do what GM says.
3. There's no regular maintenance for the brakes. Wait for them to wear out.
Here's something you didn't mention but I will.
The replacement interval for the air cleaner element is 30K. mi. Don't do it more frequently. Filters become more effective as they clog up and your engine will stay cleaner. Trust GM about how often to do it. Trust their recommendation for everything else, too, including oil change.
I saved the maintenance schedule in a zipped file. Send me an email if you want it. My mailbox is in my profile. It may be in your glove compartment because it's provided as a pamphlet with the car. Hope you enjoy your Impala.
I have had my black 2003 impala ls sports for 2 months now, and no issues to date, but from what I have been reading on this board, it is a problem I do not want to get. I mentioned it to my dealer when I bought the car, and of course, they were in total denial of the problem. And then THIS arrives today in my mail from GM Canada:
- - - - -
July 2003
Dear General Motors Customer:
This notice is sent to inform you that General Motors is conducting a voluntary customer satisfaction program that affects certain 2000-2003 Chevrolet Impala, Monte Carlo, Pontiac Grand Prix, Bonneville, Buick Regal, LeSabre, and Park Avenue Model vehicles equipped with 3800 Series II (L36) V6 engines.
We have learned that your vehicle may develop an engine coolant leak at the upper intake manifold to throttle body gasket, or at the lower intake to upper intake gasket. This condition may result in a low engine coolant level and higher engine temperatures.
To prevent this condition from ocurring, your GM dealer will replace the engine throttle body fasteners with redesigned fasteners, and add cooling system sealant to the radiator tank. This service will be performed for you at no charge through July 31, 2005.
If you have already paid for some or all of the cost to correct the engine throttle body fasteners, and you have not received reimbursement under a Vehicle Service Contract, you should contact your dealer to seek reimbursement. Please provide your dealer with your original paid receipts or invoices verifying the repair, the amount charged, proof of payment, the date of payment of those charges, and proof of ownership of the vehice at the time of repair. Your request for reimbursement, including the information and documents mentioned above, must be received by your dealer by July 31, 2004.
You may be contacted by a dealer other than the dealer who sold or is currently servicing your vehicle. Please be advised that you may take your vehicle to the General Motors dealer of your choice to have the recall service work completed. Please contact your dealer as soon as possible to arrange a service date.
If parts are required, ask your dealer for details regarding their availability. If parts are not in stock, they can be ordered before scheduling your service date.
This letter identifies your vehicle. Presentation of this letter to your dealer will assist their service personnel in completing the necessary correction to your vehicle in the shortest possible time.
We are sorry to cause you this inconvenience; however, we have taken this action in the interest of your continued satisfaction with our products.
Customer Support Department
General Motors of Canada Limited
03034
/il
- - - - -
Well, better late than never, I guess..
Now, where's that phone number for my dealer..
Cheers,
Torque
I no longer own the car as I just sold it a couple of days ago. The upper manifold was replaced back in December and the coolant was flushed already under warranty. I am sure that at the time of the repair the revised fasteners were also available. No issues after the manifold replacement was performed.
If you own a 2000-2003 Impala 3.8L base or LS model, you will receive the recall notice.
Within the recall notice there is also a separate form for the owner of the vehicle to fill out if the repair was performed outside of the limited new car factory warranty and if it was paid out of pocket to cover for said repairs. They list all required supporting documentation (Repair receipts, etc) in order to receive your check refund from GM.
I still think your best source of info is either your dealer's service manager and/or the 1-800 Chevy customer relations number.
Good luck.
FWIW - I had mine replaced outside the warranty period for @ $800; sure hope I get reimbursed for it all (PLUS hope the new fasteners will eliminate the problem in the future).
I missed the dual-climate control of the Impala; I didn't realize how nice this is until we started fighting over the single temp control.
Steering wheel cruise/audio controls weren't as well positioned (may just seem that way because I'm used to the Impala layout), also do NOT light up at night, and there was no "mute" button (which is nice when traveling with kids in the back seat).
Being used to a bench seat Impala, I found the console to be a little confining to my right leg (but I haven't driven a bucket Impala for comparison).
Best gas mileage was just over 33mpg on this trip. That's primarily Interstate driving at 65-70mph, with the AC on. (Best I've ever achieved in my 3.8l Impala is also @ 33, but that was at a 60mph average on flat terrain without the AC on).
Front end of the Accord felt light on some corners and in some strong cross-winds we encountered (I don't think I've EVER noticed cross-winds in the Impala).
The console cupholders in the Accord sit one in front of the other (as opposed to side-by-side in the Impala), which made it difficult to get to the rearward one (which practically butted up against the armrest).
Tilt steering in the Accord is of the "adjust, then leave alone" variety, whereas that in the Impala is easy to lift up every time you get in/out of the vehicle. Being @ 6-ft tall, I would have found it easier to get in and out of the Accord if I could have readily tilted the wheel out of the way.
Trunk space served us fine on this trip for a family of 4; however, had it been a winter trip (when we'd probably have had another suitcase to carry), it's questionable as to whether we could have gotten everything in.
Also missed the automatic door locking feature of the Impala (and the automatic headlights). The Accord has an illuminated dash, which is almost illegible if you turn the lights on during the day (like during a rain storm). So, you crank up the brightness. Then when you get in the car again at night, you're blinded by the brightness, and have to turn it back down.
Seats were comfortable enough, and I do like the fact that the fan controller has more detents ("speeds") than does the Impala. Also nice to have a 6-disc in-dash CD changer.
Given a choice, if I'd known I was going to do all the driving, I'd have taken the Impala. But logic said take the newer (and presumably more reliable) car, so we took the Accord. I wasn't unhappy driving it, but I'm still impressed that the Impala offers so much more in many areas, for less money.
Correction: Dealers are to replace the three throttle body fastener nuts and add cooling system sealant to the radiator tank.
Service Procedure:
Important: All "W" cars and "H" cars require a total of 16 grams of coolant sealant pellets per vehicle engine cooling system. The Buick Park Avenue ("C" car) requires 20 grams of coolant sealant pellets per vehicle engine cooling system.
1. Remove the engine intake air snorkel assembly from the throttle body (t/b) and air box.
2. Remove the bolt from the t/b support bracket at the throttle body.
3. Loosen the bolt from the t/b support bracket at the cylinder head and move the t/b support bracket away from the throttle body.
4. Remove one of the 3 t/b nuts.
5. Apply thread locker (p/n 12345382 U.S./10953489 Canada) to the stud.
6. Install a new t/b spring nut (p/n 11517293) and tighten finger tight.
7. Repeat steps 5 through 7 for remaining t/b nuts.
8. Torque the 3 t/b spring nuts to 10 Nm.
9. Reinstall the t/b support bracket into position.
10. Reinstall and torque the t/b support bracket bolt to 10 N.
11. Torque the t/b support bracket bolt at the cylinder head to 10 Nm.
12. Remove the vehicle radiator cap.
13. Remove an appropriate quantity of coolant pellets from package and pulverize the pellets in a plastic bag. The Park Avenue cooling system requires 20 grams of pellets and all the other vehicle cooling systems require 16 grams of pellets.
14. Install the crushed pellets through the radiator neck after adjusting the coolant level to accommodate the pellets.
15. Add coolant as required and reinstall the radiator cap.
16. Install the GM Identification Label.
Labor hours allowed are 0.5 plus 0.1 for administration for a total of .6 hours
My Pontiac dealer told me that it has taken an average wait time of 30 minutes per customer. My Chevrolet dealer is still waiting for the parts and if he doesn't get them in in a week I will have this procedure done by my Pontiac dealer.
St. Louis, MO
The torque on the original fasteners is only 7 ft.lbs, very easy to over torque.
"Get it done now. If the coolant leak did happen, it could go into the engine and seriously damage it. The coolant is so corrosive to an engine that it can eat the bearings and screw it up permanently. No real way of knowing whether coolant is leaking into your engine until it's too late. By then the serious engine damage has occurred and you will then have to get a new
engine. What happens a lot of the time is the coolant will leak slowly and then GM will stop the leak by fixing it, but some engine damage may already have occurred. You will never know until your car dies at 50,000 miles because the bearings went out. That's not something to fool with. I'm familiar with this cause Saturn used to have the same problem. People kept driving their cars, damaging them without even knowing it. GM would only replace the engine if it seized."
As luck would have it, I live in Finland and the local shop gave a $800 price for the part. That's somewhat too much, considering gmpartsdirect.com sells it for less than $200.
Now, I _think_ the part I want is GM part# 26093873. I've been unable to really find any information or pictures on it anywhere. I wonder if someone could help me and say whether this is the right part for a 2001 Impala LS.
I have a 2000 Impala base that I bought used. Love the car and put 20,000 miles on it already. One thing I don't like is that the rear seat on my Impala does not fold down. the previous owner bought the "base" model without this feature.
Is it possible for me to purchase through a Chevy dealership a fold down style rear seat back and replace my non-folding seat? I have had the rear seats out before while changing the 6 x 9 speakers so getting it the old one out won't be a problem. I am hoping that there isn't much difference in the hardware and that with a few nuts I can secure the fold down seat (if I can get it).
Any input would be appreciated.
Without Cruise Control . 26093874 $359.47
With Cruise Control . 26093873 $359.47
Hope this helps..
So if anyone who has the service manual (I was dumb enough not to buy it
http://www.planetsalvage.com/
The irony is that Dunlop is owned by Goodyear. Go figure.
Hey, I received a letter from GM. They are offering me an additional $1,000 if I buy another GM vehicle within the same division (Chevy). Since I now have $1,500 in GM points, my total GM rebate will be $2,500. My father, who drives a '98 Camry, is looking to buy an Impala.
I've been looking in the newspaper lately. A "California package" Impala with a retail price of $23K can be had for $15,990 (one at this price). With the $2,500 GM rebate, our final cost on the base Impala will be $13,400!! That's cheaper than a fricking Civic!! LOL
Now, I have to find out what the heck is a California package. I think it's probably bucket seats with some fancy 16" rim. I much prefer the LS 5 spoke wheels though.....