2005 and Earlier Chevrolet Impala



  • kaatje03kaatje03 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2004 Chevy Impala and the radio has stopped putting out sound. The radio display is still working but no sound.. I talked to my friend who is a mechanic and he said that the radio is probably going out.. Any one have any suggestions on how to check and see if its going out or if there is a simple fix. I'm really disappointed in this car as well. Not only is the radio not working but have a speedometer issues twice and the rack and pinnon is bad... Needless to say I wish I could afford to get rid of it...
  • the_big_althe_big_al Member Posts: 1,079
    unfortunately the only radio fix I know of is to replace it. You can try and get one from the junkyard or go aftermarket. With aftermarket however, you'll have to get an adapter that will still allow you to access the vehicle functions such as programming the locks and resetting the oil change light.

    You're speedometer issue is not an uncommon one as well. It has happened to mine and it's about a $250 fix from an online source. The gears inside have stripped or something along those lines. The speedo signal is still being sent properly, just the needle has stopped reading correctly. All my gauges have stopped reading accurately and so that is a fix that is waiting for funds in the wings.
  • brittybratbrittybrat Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2004 Impala that I got for a steal from a company who used the vehicle as a work car. I have had almost nothing but problems since up to and including replacing the cluster which costed me over $600! Now, I have a few more issues...the factory amp for the radio has seemed to of gone out on me, any one know of a website that I can get a replacement...CHEAP?! Also I got to work one day and turned off my car and my fan and defroster were still running. Well it eventually killed my battery because it just wouldnt turn off, I had to pull the fuse for the motor, but was told it could be the relay or the reciptor (what ever that is). Only problem is, going to Autozone, they said my car doesnt have a relay, so I was wondering if anyone out there has had the same problem and got it fixed and can help me out? And as if to make all this better, I aparently snapped the bearing hub on my left front tire, cancelling out my traction control and my ABS, most places are quoting me at around $400 to get that piece fixed...I cant wait till I can get the finances to get a new car....preferrably not a chevy! :(
  • brittybratbrittybrat Member Posts: 2
    when my cluster went out, i lost my spedometer, tachometer! it was the worst thing ever using a gps to tell me how fast i was going because nothing registerd. no one told me to go somewhere online so i ended up going to the dealer and spent over 600 to replace the entire thing! good luck to ya tho!
  • the_big_althe_big_al Member Posts: 1,079
    Sorry to hear about all your issues. The only issue I've had in 6 years is the gauge cluster. In fact in still isn't fixed. I have been using a GPS for speed when the speedo goes wonky and the trip computer to monitor fuel (although the low fuel light still comes on at the proper fuel level). One day I might get around to repairing, replacing the gauge cluster, but to me it isn't worth making a fuss over.

    It only took a few minutes of research to discover the gauge cluster problem and while it's only a couple hundred dollars to fix, I haven't taken the time to tear into the dash and correct it.
  • the_big_althe_big_al Member Posts: 1,079
    Check this site out for a replacement radio head unit...

    http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/Shop/Control/fp/scat/131380/SFV/30046?gclid=C- P2a8Y6spaoCFRxrgwodOSFqVA

    Can't help you on the fan motor though. Not an area of my expertise.
  • calwardtcalwardt Member Posts: 2
    Your problems has been identified on this website:

    Look for two posts ( one from 8-1-09 and one from 6/26/2011)

    The wiring to the radio is located under the passenger side carpet. Most likely it's shorting out because of moisture from the floorboard. The mositure in the floorboard is most likely coming from the sealing strip at the base of the windshield that falls off- letting rain water flow from the windshield directly into the cars fresh air intake.

    The posts in the link above will explain about the stereo wiring and about removing the windshield panel to fix the sealing strip ( See linked website in the June2010 post 2002 Impala LS leaks rain water - Topix http://www.topix.com/forum/autos/chevrolet-impala/T7T1J3LJGM5QRF7KJ This other forum should answer your questions as well as guide you into fixing the water issue so it doesnt happen again.

    Other maintenance that you'll need: Replace the cabin air filter- it's been sitting there absorbing all that rain water and will need to be fresh. This can lead to other problems like the blower motor going out if it's not taken care of. You'll notice a difference right away.

    If you go to a service center to get the repairs- be very specific about the issues and what you want them to do. (1. Replace seal at the base of the windshield and change cabin filter. 2. replace the orange wire corroded connection in the radio wiring under the passenger seat carpet ).

    Theres' no need for additional diagnostic work - this problem is VERY common for Impalas it's just nice to know that by fixing my problems with the radio and water issues I can help someone else.
  • revjim64revjim64 Member Posts: 78
    I have an 02 Impala base mode, and I totally agree with you that Chevys are junk.
    This car was plagued with problems. Right after the warranty expired the BCM went bad. Then a year later the passlock sensor had to be replaced. I put stop leak in the radiator because I couldn't afford to pay the dealer $800 dollars to replace the lower intake manifold gasket. Also I have the noisy, clunking ISS (Steering shaft).

    Now the transmission is starting to act up. In reverse it makes a growling/grinding sound when you accelerate. Could that be the PCS causing this?

    Do you still have your 01 Impala or did you scrap it??? :confuse:
  • smartoldmansmartoldman Member Posts: 2
    We have the above model Impala giving us fits with overheating and looks like a blown head gasket. The more we read and look, the more the problems mulitply.

    Car has 106,000 miles on it -- ran fine until the other day. Should we put it out of it's misery, or pursue repairs. Anyone have similar problems that have been solved?
  • cobcob Member Posts: 210
    If it is just a head gasket you can fix it yourself for a couple hundred dollars and about 2 days of labor. Most of the cost is for getting the heads pressure tested for cracks and resurfaced. The rest of the cost is for gaskets, oil and coolant. You may even be able to find someone who would do the work in their garage for you. Most repair shops and dealers will charge $1500-$2000 but a shadetree mechanic may do it for $500.
  • hooch22hooch22 Member Posts: 1
    I had this problem with my 02 Impala radio also. Clock worked, radio seemed to work. You could change the stations and adjust the volume but no sound would come out. Thank you to everyone who posted on this. Like others I had thought the amp had died. Through this web site I learned the orange wires on the amp were the power leads, both were dead. GM uses one orange wire going from the radio along the pass side floor then splits to 2 wires back to the amp. On my 02 that split was right behind the front pass seat at the door post. Pop off some int moulding and pull back the carpet and the wire bundel is right there. My problem was easy to find cause the wire connection was green with corosion. I striped the wires soldered the wires back togeather and taped it up and all is good. Thanks again to everyone who posted on this problem.
  • ladytl_1ladytl_1 Member Posts: 3
  • ladytl_1ladytl_1 Member Posts: 3
    edited September 2011
    Any info on why the engine cradle broke and took out my steering on my 2005 Impala would be appreciated. It also took out my rear motor mounts. I have been told that the welds broke and that the sub frame is missing bolts and hardware. I was told first that the bolts were not installed correctly and then that they were not installed at all. I bought this car in April 2006, as a certified used car from the Chevy dealership. The shop is trying to say that this car must have been in a major accident and that the repairs made were sub-par at best. I am trying to get GM to get this car fixed or replaced. The extended warranty will not cover repairs. The car was in the shop last year for some engine maintenance, new seals, new brakes and rotors turned, steering pump repairs and 4 new tires. It was inspected underneath and nothing reported. No accident. Has anyone else had this kind of problem with their 2005 Impala? I had no advance warning that this was going to happen while driving.
  • ladytl_1ladytl_1 Member Posts: 3
    Any info on why the engine cradle broke and took out my steering on my 2005 Impala would be appreciated. It also took out my rear motor mounts. I have been told that the welds broke and that the sub frame is missing bolts and hardware. I was told first that the bolts were not installed correctly and then that they were not installed at all. I bought this car in April 2006, as a certified used car from the Chevy dealership. The shop is trying to say that this car must have been in a major accident and that the repairs made were sub-par at best. I am trying to get GM to get this car fixed or replaced. The extended warranty will not cover repairs. The car was in the shop last year for some engine maintenance, new seals, new brakes and rotors turned, steering pump repairs and 4 new tires. It was inspected underneath and nothing reported. No accident. Has anyone else had this kind of problem with their 2005 Impala? I had no advance warning that this was going to happen while driving.
  • jpfjpf Member Posts: 496
    Did you check the Carfax before you bought it? It will indicate whether or not the car was in an accident or written off. Good luck.
  • it247365it247365 Member Posts: 1
    I solved my coolant leak. Check out my post at http://dailytweak.wordpress.com/2011/08/22/3-8l-coolant-leak/
  • impalaman1818impalaman1818 Member Posts: 2
    I have a chronic problem. The fancy wheels in the ss all deteriorate and oxidize, flaking on the inside where they damage the tires by the beading and cause slow leaks. Aside from buying four new alloy wheels and new 17 inch tires every few years does anyone have this problem and a fix? My goodyear dealer said that we cannot replace them with cheaper 16 inch plain wheels and less expensive smaller tires because it can ruin the transmission. I have had no real problems for 100k but this is a frustrating issue. Any ideas wouls be welcome. :sick:
  • cobcob Member Posts: 210
    The only fix I have seen is a company that will refurbish your rims if you can go without the car for a few days. You can switch to 16" wheels it will not damage your transmission but it will make the speedometer off by a few miles per hour. You would need to get the computer programmed by a Chevy dealer to account for the smaller rims and tires to make the speedometer accurrate. The same transmission is used for all 2004 impalas and the base and LS models both came with 16" wheels. Try a google search on alloy rim repair there maybe more than one option.
  • the_big_althe_big_al Member Posts: 1,079
    Your goodyear dealer is an idiot. You can drop to a smaller size if you so wish, however the suspension may not like it. But you can do it so long as you keep the same overall height of the tire. If you do that, your speedometer will not be off.

    But having the wheels refurbished would probably be a cheaper less expensive fix than a whole new set of wheels and tires.
  • llovrienllovrien Member Posts: 2
    Is it a big job to change an oil pan? I am told it needs changing and have received prices up to $600. Any help would be appreciated.
  • revjim64revjim64 Member Posts: 78
    I don't think it is a big job to change the oil pan. But why would you need a new one? Did you bottom out the car on something and dent the oil pan?
    Or do you live along the shore and salt water rusted it?

    To remove the oil pan you have to remove 12 bottom bolts and 6 side bolts.
    For safety you may want to disconnect the battery first. You will have to put the vehiclel up on ramps. You may need to remove the serpentine belt and belt tensioner. You may need to remove the front exhaust and Steering gear pinch bolt. Disconnect oil level sensor. Remove the starter and your hood. Remove the flywheel driveplate cover, remove the passenger side upper motor mount. Place a floor jack under the frame front crossmember, loosen cross member left side bolts. Remove the right side crossmember bolts. Remove the cranksahft pulley, and remove oil filter shield.
  • llovrienllovrien Member Posts: 2
    Thank you for your help. I live in Wisconsin where we put lotsa salt on the highways. The pan is rusted and the bolt won't loosen up. Just preparing for the worst. Maybe the oil pan gasket can be replaced w/o doing the oil pan itself. It is a 2000 but just over 100,000 miles.
  • jeffro14jeffro14 Member Posts: 1
    Your radio is fine. The problem is that the power cable to your factory amplifier has a corroded connection beneath your carpet that stems from a displaced seal beneath your windshield (We'll get to that in a minute).

    The wiring fix is a simple do it yourself job so follow along. Remove the lower door trim from the front and rear passenger side door openings then remove the lower pillar trim between the doors. Untab the carpet along both doors and pull back. You will find a wiring harness that runs along the passenger side rocker. Open the harness directly below the pillar and you will find a one-into-two crimp orange wire splice that will be corroded. Repair this connection and while you're in there repair the other two crimps that consist of a one-into-two black wire connection and a one-into-three black wire connection. Repair them one at a time to avoid mixing up wires and be sure to use dielectric grease on your crimp connections and use shrink tube to seal them.

    ROOT CAUSE: Displaced seal beneath the passenger side air inlet cowl directly below the passenger side wiper. These get blown out of place by pressure washing and allow water to cascade into your blower unit then down beneath your carpet.

    REPAIR: Park your wipers in the up position and remove the key from the ignition. Unclip the passenger side wiper washer line and move it below the inlet cowl. Next, remove the two small push type retainers and the single larger screw out retainer from the inlet cowl.

    Pull inlet cowl free and put it aside. Look down into the opening and you will find a displaced seal, and (I guarantee you) a very dirty, plugged cabin filter. Replace the cabin filter taking care to work it under it's large retaining tab to your right rear of the blower inlet.

    Once the cabin filter has been replaced, clean the leading metal edge over the cabin filter (just beneath windshield) and the seal that fit's over it. Apply a healty dose of silicone adhesive to the thin opening of the seal and fit it back where it belongs above the cabin filter. Next, locate the water drain to your left and make sure that it is not plugged. Wait an hour or so for the seal to set and re-assemble.

    Take care when washing your car to not put direct water pressure along the base of your windshield and the seal should stay where it belongs.

    Good Luck, Jeff
  • greed64greed64 Member Posts: 1
    I'm curious to know as well. I have had to replace my water pump and radiator! My water pump showed signs of leakage and was suggested that it be replaced before it went out and my 2004 Impala Ls overheated on me along with a few small but annoying problems that add up. Oh and yes my check engine light is on.....fuel tank small leak! Smh. My car has over 100,000 miles on it well cared for and I will not be retuning to purchase a Chevy again-lease but never buying again. Sorry Gm.
  • jpfjpf Member Posts: 496
    An overheating / cooling system problem could impact your transmission, especially if parts in the transmission are made from aluminum. Aluminum heats up much faster than steel. If your car runs hot or overheats, then the transmission fluid will heat up and the transmission's components will heat up. This excessive heat will damage your transmission. If your car overheats, it is a safe practice to change your transmission fluid irrespective if you had changed it recently, prior to the overheat condition. I am unsure whether key transmission components are made from aluminum in GM's products. However, this may explain the problem that you had experienced. Good luck.
  • dm22dm22 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 chevy imp 3.8 k...this past summer the heater hose fitting pretty much just fell apart, the whole bottom of it was gone. After realizing it was only a 4$ part my father and i replaced it. It ran like a champ until about two weeks ago it started to not heat like it should. We put anitfreeze in several times so we knew there was a leak but had not been able to pin point it. Last night we pulled into a restauraunt and theres smoke every where. Once again the stupid little $4 part was destroyed again. Does anybody have any clue what could be making this happen. PLZ HELP!!!!
  • the_big_althe_big_al Member Posts: 1,079
    Here is the issue I am currently dealing with. I have an 04 Impala with the 3.4 motor. It had (well still has) its entire gauge cluster go out. None of the gauges read correctly and I finally after 2 years ordered a "new" cluster to replace the wonky one. I know the stepper motors for this particular generation of Impala to be chronically faulty; indeed I think GM had several years of bad gauge cluster needles through out several models however, I don't think that is the issue here.

    I replaced the entire cluster. Then while on the road traveling at highway speeds my wife commented that the car felt like it was driving funny and losing power. She said it would also randomly kick off the cruise control. I thought it was just because we were driving through the mountains and that is why the car felt like it was losing power... every time it would slip back into drive, the gearing was such it couldn't keep up. That was my theory until I drove it on the next leg of our 1400 mile trip. I noticed that the speedometer would flick like you had shut the car off and then turned it back on. The speedometer was the only gauge to do this. When it did this the cruise would kick off. Sometimes the needle would fall almost to 30 or 40 (from 75 mph) before kicking back on, other times it was just a few mph before coming back to the current speed.

    I didn't think much of this as the car was acting normal otherwise. Then however I noticed as I was trying to go up a hill, I felt the car suddenly lose all power. It's hard to describe although as it continued to do this, I finally figured out it felt like it was hitting the speed limiter and the computer was shutting the car down. I've never hit the limiter in this car before as I think it's set somewhere north of 115 MPH and this car has a hard time getting to that point, however I have hit it in several other GM vehicles and this was the exact same sensation. Only it was doing it at 65-80 MPH. Usually under a heavy load like a pedal to the floor load. So the only thing I could think at the time was the new cluster. So when we stopped for the night, I swapped clusters back out to see if the old one would make the car exhibit the same symptoms. It didn't change. Again the only needle that would flick would be the speedometer (only this time it flicked the needle when it was pointing straight down at the steering column since the motors were stripped and this is where the needle was stuck at this point).

    So it appears that the symptom is not related to the gauge cluster but rather something else. Would it be the speed sensor? And if so where is it? The other question I have is I changed unplugged them while the ignition was "hot" (key in the run position) because I needed the shift lever in first gear to remove the dash panel and the cluster. Would this have cause my issue and shorted something out? (Yes I know that was a fubar on my part, the battery should have been disconnected and yadda yadda). Now I am just trying to track what I need to fix and make sure I don't have any other major issues. I will note that after several hundred miles the symptoms decreased and we could finally use the cruise again for several miles. Until I hit hills again and put the motor under load and it would act up again occasionally hitting the "speed limiter" if indeed that is was it is doing. I don't know if that is what it is doing, but that is the sensation I get when it does its thing.
  • chevytranschevytrans Member Posts: 6
    Well, this impala has a defect in the transmission in my opinion. k's of the same complaint in the us and canada. Sorry we all can't be wrong and we need to get together on this.
  • smartoldmansmartoldman Member Posts: 2
    Suggestion: Buy a Ford! Sorry to be a smart aleck, but my granddaughter bought, with my assistance, a 2005 Chevy Impala, and it was major problems with the engine, cooling, and most everything under the hood. Though the transmission doesn't seem to be a problem. Have had it 15-16 months and no problems to speak of after spending about $ 3,000 to repair and replace a bunch of items.

    File a complaint with the Federal Trade Commission, if the Chevy Dealer can't assist you. This is happening with everything we buy nowadays, whether it's made in China or not.
  • ladyvampire74ladyvampire74 Member Posts: 1
    I had the same issue after I had water come in on the passenger side after a rainstorm. The factory amp is in the trunk and can be replaced much cheaper than the radio itself. Or if you know someone who is good at wiring have them bypass the amp, that is what I had done. The amp controls the power to the speakers, that is all that is wrong when you have display but no sound.
  • rockarosarockarosa Member Posts: 2
    I have an 05 Impala that vhas an oder like natural gas. When I first noticed this the tranasmission started to slip at red lights and then launch. What would cause this?
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Member Posts: 4,252
    Good morning rockarosa,
    Have you had any luck in getting this evaluated since your post? If you decide on visiting a GM dealership and would like for us to follow up on anything with them, be sure to contact us at [email protected] (include your name and contact information, the last 8 digits of your VIN, and a recap of the situation at hand).

    Sarah, GM Customer Service
  • rockarosarockarosa Member Posts: 2
    Good Morning Customer care, I hope fully solved my problem and traded my car in on a 2012 chevy Impala with the 6 speed transmission. Looked at Hyundia's but got a good deal on the Impala. Hope they solved the transmission defect.
  • young_ss_boyyoung_ss_boy Member Posts: 1
    I know im super late...If problem is still happening, i have some knowledge for you. So place that you get air from have water in there hoses...I work at Discount Tire and i learned that chrome peal comes from water sitting inside tire and and the rim soaks it up and it warps and then some what explode. that what makes the come start coming apart from wheel and start tearing tire up
  • clipontiescliponties Member Posts: 2
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Member Posts: 4,252
    Congratulations on your new Impala, rockarosa! If you should ever need anything, we can be reached at [email protected] (please include your name and contact information and the last 8 digits of your VIN with your inquiry).

    Many happy miles!
    Sarah, GM Customer Service
  • chevowner2chevowner2 Member Posts: 1
    edited March 2013
    Don't count on Dynacell Batteries for the warranty. The Dynacell battery in my truck failed after 24 months of use and Dynacell refused to honor the 36 month replacement guarantee. I received a rude email from Mr. Skip Humphries stating they would not reimburse me for the replacement battery. The battery was installed by the local Chevrolet Dealer here in Ocala, FL. I would never purchase another Dynacell battery and Chevrolet has stopped using their batteries.
  • bobisnextbobisnext Member Posts: 4

    I have a 2005 impala base sedan with no tachometer.

    I want to install a digital tach. in the past the tach wire was connected to one side of the coil.

    Where is the "coil" on the newer cars?

  • cobcob Member Posts: 210
    The coils are attached to the metal bracket on the top back of engine where all six spark plug wires are also attached. Not sure which wire you would use from that harness to hook up a tach. A easier way would be to get a gage cluster from a LS model or a Monte Carlo. Either one will plug into the existing harness and screw into place in the dash. Only issue will be the odometer miles will not be the same as your current cluster.
  • fishing4funfishing4fun Member Posts: 1
    Hi! Boy, am I glad to find this site. Over the past 4 months, I've noticed a whine or growl start when I reach 40 mph. It 'peaks' at 45 mph and disappears around 50 mph. It didn't make this noise the first 1.5 yrs we've owned it. The ball bearings are fine and we've replaced the rack & pinion on the driver's side. The tires are in great condition. Any thoughts/suggestions?
  • nosirrahgnosirrahg Little Rock, ARMember Posts: 872

    Been a few years since I had an Impala, but the only time I remember a whine/growl in mine it turned out to be low on power steering fluid, which as I recall the reservoir was located on the back/firewall side of the engine out of easy view, which is why I hadn't routinely checked it.

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