2005 and Earlier Chevrolet Impala

tsjay

It was just a matter of timing, I guess. They had a sales push on for the end of the year, I suppose.

I checked with the sales lady that I dealt with on my Impala when I saw her Friday when I was getting my oil changed. She said the rebate is still $3000 and she THINKS the bonus cash is $1000. So, there's $4000 for ya. Too bad you don't have a GM credit card. As I stated earlier, that was worth $2000 on my deal ($1330 actually earned, and $670 just thrown in by GM).

Use GM Buypower, and this should get you the bottom dollar deal with no haggling. When you use Edmunds to get the pricing on a new car, just click on GM Buypower. That gives you the opportunity to request quotes from your three nearest dealers. I was offered the car at invoice by the dealer in the town where I work.

Good luck. I think you are on the right track in "thinking Impala." I sure am impressed with mine.

Tom

hvan3

Congrats on your Impala LS. $19K is an excellent deal!

If I told you what I paid for my 2000 Impala LS (brand new), you probably wouldn't believe me. STicker price was $24Kish (leather but no spoiler, and no sunroof). The car was bought in Feb 2001. Dealer marked off $5K. GM AutoShow Rebate knocked of $2K. My GM card points were worth $3700. Total price off MSRP was $10,700!

My total cost on the 2000 Impala LS with 34 miles came to $15.4K OUT THE DOOR! Two months later, I received a rebate check of $100 from the DMV. I used the money ($200 to install a rear spoiler).

All is well in the Impala land!!

nechamab

Hi, returning visitor here (haven't been in over a year--used to have the name "copychick.") I have an 02 Impala LS and am approaching the end of the 36K warranty.

I'm hearing mixed reviews on whether or not an extended warranty is a good idea. I intend to keep the car through the life of the loan--another 3 and 1/2 years. One friend insists an extended warranty is a necessity.

Another friend who owns an auto shop told me most of these extended warranty places are rip-offs and that it is VERY difficult to put through a claim. It's also a lot of money ($1,500) to purchase. I was considering buying one NOT through the dealership, as they mark the price up even more. Right now I've been looking at Warranty Direct, but I'm getting cold feet.

Any thoughts? I like the idea of the peace of mind, but it's a ton of money to shell out and if they are gonna hassle me on the claims, it's probably not worth it.

mitzij

Please read the warranty posts in the f&i section of this site. You'll find chapter and verse on the fun times people have had with service contract companies. (I don't call them extended warranties, because that's a misnomer)

The vast majority of people who have service contracts do not see a return of their money. You may get a claim or two paid, but the amount you put out in the beginning will be more than the claims total. It has to be this way or there would not be so many SC companies begging for your money. As for Warranty Direct, they are insured by a risk retention group, in other words, a shaky venture. (again, see Warranties section)

You'd be better off putting the money you'd spend on a service contract into a savings account. Save it for when or if your car breaks down. You won't have to wait for an adjuster to approve the repair and the shop won't have to wait for it's money.

If you MUST get a service contract, buy one backed by GM (aka GMProtectionPlan) GM has a vested interest in keeping you as a customer (they want you to buy another GM vehicle) and Major Guard is the best coverage you can get. You can shop around at different dealers and even on the 'net. Prices for service contracts are very negotiable. The approval and payment system for GMPP is imbedded in the dealer network, making claims fairly painless for the customer.

I don't want to sound like an ad for GMPP, I generally don't like the idea of service contracts. I work in the service dept of a dealership and have seen many people get ticked off because their SCC wouldn't pay a claim. It's aggravating on both sides of the counter.

nechamab

Wow thank you very much for your insights. I'll be at the dealer next week (the car is having a little trouble when starting) and will look into their service contract. I like the idea of setting up a savings account instead. What a smart idea!

Thanks again.

mitzij

hvan3

My 2000 Impala LS has 48K miles. Not a single problem since outside of 36K mile warranty. I had everything done within warranty period (ISS).

I never recommend anyone buying an extended warranty. The Impala is built to last!! At 48K miles, this car still drives like a charm.

johnclineii

And at 151,000, a service contract on mine would have paid for...a headlight switch (which with parts and labor cost me about $275...and there probably would have been a deductible)...

dispencer1

I like the GM Protection Plan. I like to know that if the car breaks down (on a trip especially) I get towed to a GM dealer, given a rental car if necessary, and the problem is fixed without a sudden bill for $1200 or $500 or whatever. One head gasket problem on my 1998 Silhouette at 85k PAID for my extended warranty and that wasn't the end of the problems with that car fixed under the extended warranty. I have gotten a good deal on the GMPP by shopping around and I prefer to know I'm covered. Probably if I was wealthy I wouldn't bother with the GMPP but I'm not so it is good insurance for potential breakdowns and covers virtually everything if you get the Major Guard. I wouldn't even consider a non GM extended warranty regardless of cost. My 2003 Certified Cadillac has a great extended warranty - 6 years /100k miles/ 0 deductible. Would rather buy a year old certified one than a new one.

tsjay

Hey, I've been out of town and unable to check in for a couple days, but CONGRATS on that super deal!

I wish a guy could earn $1000 max per year on the GM Card like he used to. I cleaned up then! (Bought my son a Grand Am, and had lots of earned rebate bucks... don't remember the specifics)

Tom

zx3for_me

After rebates etc I came up with 16,134..good price for Impala with only 1SA package?

tsjay

Just use the old Edmunds price guide and get invoice price for that puppy. It's hard to compare deals unless the deals are expressed as so much over or so much below invoice. Invoice is the baseline to work from.

I was offered my Impala at invoice back in December. That was without applying any rebates. So, I got the car at invoice and STILL got the benefit of all the rebates and bonus cash amounts.

Hope that helps.

Tom

setzer

when i brought a Impala home during a test drive I compared it to my neighbors 2004 Grand Prix and I noticed even though the Grand Prix is a brand new design, the Impala is so much nicer. I'm glad I bought one.

tsjay

I don't know, man. Those Grand Prix's are gorgeous. If the car had been for my personal transportation instead of for our family car (mostly wife-driven), I would have gone with the Grand Prix.

The very best car I EVER had was a 2000 Grand Prix GT. Of course, that was back in my car-trading days, when I never kept a car much after the new car smell was gone. I put almost 20,000 miles on that car in the 8 months that I had it, and it never once went back to the dealer for even a minor adjustment. The initial quality was perfect on that car. No blemishes, no ill-fitting parts, nothin'!

I just HAD to have a Jeep Wrangler, so I traded the GP. I still own the Jeep and am having an absolute BLAST with it! I can't believe I still have a vehicle over three years after buying it. I will NEVER part with my Jeep.

Having said all that, I am TOTALLY satisfied with that Impala. Like that Grand Prix, the Impala has no defects in workmanship, so maybe I will be able to say the same thing about it after 20,000 miles that I did about the Grand Prix. It's just not as sporty as the Grand Prix.

Tom

hvan3

One of our local dealers in LA is selling a brand new 2004 Impala SS for $20.2K. MSRP is $30.3K.

matteo2

I have 2001 impala base model, at 52K had the clunks in the steering and had the ISS lube done $132 at the dealer. Now have 57K miles and am having a slight vibrations at higher speeds, fells like steering. Is this still the ISS ? How much does the ISS replacemnet cost if needed ?

tsjay

Are you sure it isn't just a tire balance issue? How lond since the tires were balanced? You could have lost a wheel weight. I would at least check that out before doing anything else.

Tom

chevyfanatic69

I was looking at the test results of a new Impala SS and saw that it could keep up with or even beat 1994-1996 SS Impala's. I know its FWD and has a V-6 (although a very powerful one) I think it should get some respect at least for not being a SS with a N/A 3800 V-6 like the 2000-Present Monte Carlos

b4z

Good to see some posts after 2 weeks without any.
Hard to believe that Impala is one of the most popular cars in America, with a record breaking 30,000 sales in March and that there is no activity on this thread.

A vibration in the steering wheel is probably not the ISS.

b4z

The cureent SS is indeed quicker than the '90s version.

mitzij

And better looking.

jons01

Has anyone installed back up warning sensors on an Impala? Lately, I have become almost paranoid about backing up on parking lots, etc. because of not being able to see clearly enough over the high trunk to judge distances.

There are several models available on the web that seem to be what I need, but am reluctant to give it a try wihout any feed back from other owners. One device is sold by 12voltshop.com for $99.99 and has both audio and visual signals that tell how close you are to objects in back of the car. The sensors mount on the black molding strips on the rear bumper.

I don't like the idea of having the sensors sticking out on the bumper (about 1.5 inches), but it may be worth it for the peace of mind and maybe an avoided accident.

Any thoughts?

pluto5

I can look out the back window and see the top of the trunk lid so it's not too hard to judge distances, and my LS doesn't have the spoiler. Also, I try to back into parking spaces so there isn't much of an issue about anything in my way, and it's safer pulling out.

mediumfry

Hello again folks. It's been a couple years since I posted here. I haven't kept up with the posts either, but I have a problem with my '01 LS to ask about.

A couple weeks ago I noticed that when I turned the key to start the car, the horn chirped very quickly, even more quickly than the chirp when the doors lock. A week or so later it happened again. Now, the past couple days, I've gone to start the car and the horn chirps as many as 10-15 times in rapid but random succession. Something looks like it's trying to flash up on the little driver information screen (the one that says door ajar, trunk open, stuff like that). Nothing stays on the screen long enough to read it, or even tell if it has something readable on it.

It occurs to me that I am usually closing the door at the same time I hit the starter, but I don't know if there's a correlation. It seems almost like the security system is getting confused but I can't tell. If it happens at night, maybe I'll be able to tell if the lights flash with the horn.

Meanwhile, I wonder if anyone else has heard of this problem.

I'm going to use my scan tool to see if there are any DTCs but I don't expect any. I might replace my battery but I have no other indication that it's failing.

Has anyone else seen these symptoms?

Thanks,

Medfry

nosirrahg

Glad to see you back! I've kept up with the posts here for the past 4 years, and I don't remember anyone mentioning this problem.

I remember a year or so ago when the battery went out on my 2000 model, I got virtually no warning at all. I remember that morning when I started the car, there was just the slighest delay in the car starting - but just that one time. Later that afternoon I'd gone by the video store on my way home from work, and when I got back in the car and turned the key, I got this wild display of all the dash lights blinking and doing funky stuff; then nothing. Called my wife, and we were able to jump it off with her car and make it home, and I took it in the next day and got the battery replaced. But I don't remember the horn honking as you describe, but if it did, it would have been at the point the battery gave up the ghost - so if yours has continued to do this for awhile, I'm guessing it's probably not the battery.

matteo2

My tires were balanced about 4 months ago and the front rotors are new only 2 months old. I also feel the front end vibration slightly on the floor boards when sitting in the passenger seat, the vibration is not in the steering wheel. I'll check the tire balance first.
thanks

cornstalker

Could it possibly be your BCM? God help you if it is. :>

nosirrahg

One problem I've noticed recently; when going up an incline without giving the car much gas, I get a hesitation, like the transmission is hunting for a gear (or like the torque converter is kicking in and out). I've only noticed this in the past few months, and I'm not driving any differently than I have for the past 60k miles, so it's something new the car is doing. I can give the car more gas and it's fine, but I can't go charging around places at his speed just to keep my tranny from waffling back and forth.

Any thoughts as to whether this is anything I should worry about? I can live with it, but if it's a sign of a bigger problem (or one that will get worse/more expensive) I'd like to know.

mediumfry

I'm hoping it's not the BCM. It's gotten a lot worse, though, so I should be able to diagnose it. On warmer days, when I put the key in accessory, the horn blows constantly. When starting the car, it blows more consistently then after a few seconds and some cut-outs (of the horn,that is), it decides to stop.

I'm just hoping it won't start honking again when I'm right next to some hot babe with some guy with a gun or something.

I have located the fuse and am prepared to pull it.

I'll check battery voltage first and if it's not that, I'll probably have to take it in and get a diagnosis. I hate that.

Thanks for the posts.

tsjay

Not a fix, but a suggestion for a short term solution until the permanent fix... put the shift selector in 3rd, not Drive. This will lock out overdrive, and it should keep the tranny from trying to switch back and forth between 3rd and 4th gears. Only use D when you are out on the highway on level ground.

Hope you get this fixed. Sorry if I was just stating the obvious in what I said above. You are probably already doing that.

Tom

P.S. This could turn out to be an engine problem rather than a tranny problem. I would take it in to the dealership service department or to a trusted independent mechanic for diagnosis.

nosirrahg

Actually that's something I hadn't thought about doing...next time the problem occurs, I'll put it into "3" and see if things clear up or not.

It's been a couple of years ago, and I can't remember the symptoms, but I had to take it in once and have the fuel injectors cleaned. I've tried to run fuel injector cleaner through it since then each time I change the oil, and haven't had any problems since. But it's possible this could be the same problem reoccurring.

Hopefully work will slow down next week, and I can take it in one day and have the shop check it out. I'm planning on keeping the car for several more years, so I'd rather catch things early if I can.

t_tookalook

My brother has a 2002 Impala and just had the rotors 'turned' because when he applied normal braking a slight vibration would develop.
This did not correct the problem and the dealer
is scratching his head. No cost is involved with the dealer. He has about 30K on it.
I have 13000 on my '03 Impala and no trouble with anything.
Any ideas?
Rodger

nosirrahg

If the vibration was felt when braking while turning (especially to the right), it's possible it could be the intermediate steering shaft (ISS). I'm not sure if/when they fixed this problem premanently (mine is a 2000 model), but they had a fix that required adding a grease fitting and some lube to the ISS - not sure if this is an issue with the 2002 models or not, but if it's making a clunking sound when applying the brakes and turning the wheel (which you feel in the brake pedal, and can be heard by passengers as well), then that might be the problem.

hvan

Which would you buy: a Chrylser 300 or Impala SS? I'm seriously thinking of getting Chrysler 300 as my next vehicle, perhaps the following model year. A Hemi is out of my league, but a nicely equipped 300 at $28K is within my budget. I haven't yet seen the interior of the 300, but I'm sure it's nicer than the CTS.....

etcarroll

hvan -

weighing the same issue, but hard to answer the question as there is no 'new' Imp SS, rumor has it scheduled for '06. For that matter, weighing the STS and Acura RL, (new one), and let's not forget the rumored Dodge Charger that may return in '06.

Have 2 years left on my present Imp loan, waiting for it to run out before I make a move, the '06 models will be out by then.

I looked at the CTS and 300 Touring, thought the CTS a better interior.

Would also get a 300C if I went Chrysler, but not the first year, want them to work out whatever bugs I'm sure will arise with the 4/8 cylinder on/off feature, (MDS I think they call it).

Kirstie_H

A newspaper reporter is looking for someone who has financed a new car for longer than 60 months and is still paying for it. Please send your daytime contact info to jfallon@edmunds.com no later than Wednesday, May 19, 2004.
Thanks!
Jeannine Fallon
PR Director
Edmunds.com

dispencer1

Better check the price of the CTS. The advertised price is low but the base car has stick shift and the available packages add thousands to the price. Automatic is $1200. Decently equipped ones are around $36k or more MSRP. Most are more.
Chrysler products have a terrible reliability record with really major things going wrong - engines, transmissions, head gaskets, etc. Check the posts for Chryslers, Dodges, etc -lots of unhappy folks. The 1965-1966 models were pretty reliable. Perhaps you might find one of them if you really want a Chrysler product.
I'd wait until a revised Impala comes out and then look at one or another GM product or Japanese one, NOT a Chrysler unless you really have an affinity for Service Lounge coffee.

matteo2

I have a 2001 impala (56K mi) and when at a stop I tune the steering wheel left to right I hear a squeeling sound, Is this related to a ISS problem ?

tsjay

Sounds like a power steering belt to me, since you describe it as a "squealing" noise.

Tom

mediumfry

TSJAY is probably right, but there's only one belt on the car (the serpentine belt) and the belt has an auto-tension idler. Thus, I would estimate that the power steering pump is actually pulling too hard against the belt, causing it to slip. As opposed to the belt being too loose.

Replacing the belt may help, but most likely you need to either add fluid to the power steering pump or replace it.

Your problem has nothing to do with the ISS.

Good luck.

mediumfry

My problem is most likely the BCM. I have now had four problems including:
Auto door locks fail to lock when putting in drive
Erroneous Low Tire Monitor warning light
Turn Signals stop working until car is stopped and re-started.
Horn operates constantly in Accessory and Start positions and intermittently in run position (but only when the car is not running).

I am going to check the voltage to the BCM (may be a bad ground) and then probably replace the BCM if I can't find a electrical problem.

Incidentally the BCM is only about $200 retail from a dealer and $65 to program it. That's not as bad as the $1200 I figured it would cost. $265 is still about $264.99 more than I want to spend on it though...

atbear

How's everybody been in Edmunds Impala Land?? ; )

trucker50

I asked this question an the other a board and I'll ask it here....I've been having trouble with my cd player in my 2000 Impala and was thinking of replacing it with an aftermarket unit....I was wondering if I do this how would you reset the oil change light etc. that I now rest via the raido controls?

johnclineii

Simple answer?

You don't.

You also lose control of the head unit through the controls on the steering wheel.

trucker50

Well I did find out through impalahq.com how to reset low oil/oil change light but that and the low tire pressure is the only things you can reset without the radio.....they recommened mounting the oe radio in the trunk for when something needs to be reset/addressed....apparently the warning chimes are transmitted through the radio also....what a hassle! Also you can buy a wiring kit from Crutchfield and certainly others that permit using steering wheel controls with aftermarket radio's

johnclineii

You'd best be sure that kit works. Crutchfield is excellent at tech support. Ask first. A friend bought one elsewhere and it did NOT work.

And be sure the method of resetting the oil monitor works as well. Some years it does, some it does NOT. Tire pressure monitoring reset is easy, involving switching the headlights to parking lights and back three times.

dispencer1

When I tried to get a 1997 LeSabre radio fixed at a GM dealer, it turns out that they send it out somewhere and you get a refurbished radio back (at $350 and up). My problem was a cassette deck that was attached inside the main unit with a couple of screws (a cable plugged in as well). Simple but mine was broken and GM will not supply a replacement deck. There are some sites on the web that fix GM radios though and some radio shops that sell used GM radios. It would be a lot simpler to simply search around and get the radio fixed. You probably have a bad laser. If so, it is not a big deal to replace it. This is another reason to purchase a GM Bumper to Bumper extended warranty that covers things like radios and other electronic stuff.

johnclineii

I don't know about that last statement. I have 157,000 miles on my Impala. Had I bought an extended warranty, the ONLY thing it would have covered would have been a headlight switch at 99,950 miles. Maybe.

zx3for_me

I put on around 27-30k a year as my round trip daily commute is about 100 miles.

I really like the Impala after having rented a few of them and like the mileage that it boasts on the highway. I'm also afraid of it giving up the ghost at 100k miles.

With proper maintenance how many miles would one expect? Probably looking at a used 2003 for around 12-13k

hvan

Has anyone looked at their serpentine belt? My 2000 Impala LS with about 52K miles shows some slight cracks on the belt. It doesn't look too serious, however, everytime I get an oil change, the technician recommended that I replace it. Should I ignore him and see if it will last to 75K miles?