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Comments
I first noticed the odor driving home and it has since gotten worse. It is a sulfer-like smell, although not like a catalytic converter.
The car has had other problems that started at 400 miles. After two visits to two different dealerships, they finally replaced a wiring module that was causing electrical problems, (turn signals, hazard flashers and stop lights stopped working). I mentioned the smell to the dealers, but their response has been, "it's just the new car smell", or "it's the engine coatings burning off". At least I got them to make a record of my complaint.
Has anyone else noticed this problem with their Impala? The smell is getting pumped into the car from the ventilation system. I know it's coming from the engine compartment because the smell is there when I open the hood. The dealers suggestion was to put the control on recirculate, but that does not solve the problem.
I was so looking forward to enjoying the aroma of my leather seats, but that is not to be.
I smell a lemon.
The first thing I would be concerned about would be that it could be exhaust gases. Smog system, exhaust manifold, etc. If it is coming from the engine compartment, it's not even making it to the cat so you may not recognize the smell. If it it exhaust, then you could have a carbon monoxide problem also. Do your eyes sting? Do you feel drowsy, or have headaches while or after driving?
It's really hard to say. I have never heard of a sulfur smell associated with a new car. If it doesn't go away, take it in and have them smell it.
If you look on my site for the link to the Accessories page, the SS emblem was one of the four I used to make the GIF. Personally, I liked the crossed flags Impala emblem over the SS one.
Anyway, the link to the NAISSO Superstore in on the Accessories page. On the NAISSO site, you can find the emblems on the "Exterior Vehicle Accessories" page.
http://home.hawaii.rr.com/impala/
I was impressed by the information you provided concerning the engine cradle problems other owners had mentioned.
The dealers I have seen acknowledged they smelled something, but it was clear they didn't want to tackle the problem. Their response on the service order was "could not duplicate". I had the flu when I picked up the car and didn't have the energy to fight with them.
I suspected it could be exhaust gases or even carbon monoxide. Once after driving about 60 miles I felt really tired and could hardly keep awake. I'm so disgusted with the problems, I have avoided driving the car. A neighbor suggested having AAA check the car for carbon monoxide gases, which I hope to do tomorrow.
It's frustrating because I don't have time to deal with the problems and fight with Joe MacPherson Chevrolet. I have a life and this car is taking up too much of my time.
Thanks for the info.
You mentioned one time you were tired after a 60 mile trip. If there was CO leaking into the car you would be tired ALL time when you drove the car. Even if only for 15-20 minutes, because it rapidly replaces the oxygen in your blood. At the very least you would have a headache. I have noticed that the car is very adept at picking up whatever smells are ahead of you on the road..skunks, oil burning rice burner exhausts...sulfur catalytic odors from cars ahead of you with malfuntioning converters...roadkill...etc etc. I believe this is just a result of how the air intake is positioned on the vehicle.
Do you have the sulfur smell all the time?
Does it occurr more idling in traffic, or at highway speeds?
A simple way of detecting it yourself MIGHT be to use one of those home CO
detectors in your car. They look like a smoke alarm and cost about $30.
When you're done, it could be placed in your utility room to detect problems with your gas or oil house furnace or with a gas hot water heater.
Hydrogen Sulfide - which smells like rotten eggs - is a gas given off by some catalytic converters under certain circumstances. It too can be poisonous.
You could very well have a catalytic converter or an exhaust system problem - maybe a leak or blockage.
Catalytic converters are supposed to reduce the amount of CO and unburned
hydrocarbons and nitrogen oxides from the engine exhaust.
Try another Chevy dealer for service. It doesn't matter where you bought the car.
Best Regards
Enjoy and welcome again.
Also, call the Chevy customer service 1-800 number and proceed to open a new file case number if you haven't done so. In problems of this nature it is essential to create a paper and phone call trail just in case you need to escalate the situation further. When talking to the customer service rep, also request for the service manager or service director of the dealer of your preference to be directly involved in your case. This saves a lot of time and grief. Some times Service Writters are not genuinely interested in resolving your complaints, but service managers do (Well most of the time).
Strong chemical smells and gases filtrating to the cabin are a serious concern. I like the suggestion about getting a Carbon Monoxide detector to measure the amount of the gas in your car's conckpit...it is a good place to start.
I haven't read about this particular concern anywhere else but you may have a valid issue in regards to your exaust system or catalytic converter.
have it checked somewhere else as soon as possible.
* Vehicle Color:
Color code convention:
GS=Galaxy Silver
SD=Sandrift Metallic
W=White
BM=Bronzemist Metallic
TR=Torch Red
NB=Navy Blue
JG=Jade Green
B=Black
DC=Dark Red Carmine
(If another 2001 Impala color escapes my mind, please let me know)
* Engine type:
Engine code
3.4L = 3400 V6
3.8L = 3800 V6
* Last six digits of the VIN number
* Build date (Located on the driver's door jamb)
*Model:
Base = Base model
LS = LS model
*Owner location:
City, state, Country (For Canuck owners)
the survey entry will look like this:
12-00/242xxx/LS/SD/3.8L/Miami,FL.
Build date
Last 6 digits of VIN number
Model
Color
Engine
Location
Tnanks!
I am sorry to hear about the problems that the members of this forum is having with their Impalas. I hope Chevrolet will make everything right with your cars. I had problems just ordering my Impala and I know how it is dealing with Chevrolet.
May all have a great and blessed day!
Some stats:
Mileage: 13,910
Fuel Economy: 19 MPG (City)
Fuel used since 2/2/2000 = 786 Gallons.
Yearly fuel cost = $1,000 aprox.
Here it goes:
"The Good news... I have my car back after 6 days in the shop and the noise is gone(again). The dealer had a frame with 6000 miles on it. They took that frame to a race car shop in Philadelphia and welded all the way around the rack and pinion mounts. I got under the car with a mirror and inspected the weld. It looks great. Nice bead of weld all the way around. I must say I am impressed. The bad news Remember that I said i could feel the noise this time. It sounded more like a groan and clunk. Remember that i said the 2nd frame on my car had more weld then the original. Well, as I was leaving with my car the service manager said. "By the way the rack and pinion bolts were loose" WHAT THE $#%@! I had to just leave because I did not want to go to jail for assult and battery of a moron. Last time for the record. The original frame is welded in a straight line only on the bottom of the rack and pinion mounts. The improved frame (different part number)that they installed has the welds in a "U" shape. This frame was not broken, the rack bolts were only loose. They did not want to take a chance and have me come back again. So now I have frame number 3 with enough weld that I am sure I could hop curbs with the police cars without any more problems. Bottom line folks, The frame is the source of the noise. If you get the improved frame installed and the bolts tightened you should be fine. If they want to weld all the way around the mounts then your ready for off road action. The service manager, who is not to be trusted, said Chevy is not going to ship out new and improved frames any more. They want the dealers to get the frames welded all the way around the mounts. THEY SHOULD HAVE BEEN IN THE FIRST PLACE! Did I mention the grease on my rugs, doors, floor panels, steering wheel, and arm rest. Good thing I like the new weld or I'd call and really rip in. This has been a real pain in the [non-permissible content removed] and I am glad it is over. I hope this info helps you guys and I hope you have a easier time then I did with this problem. As for my father in law. His impala only has a faint and difficult to hear clicking when turning the wheel so he wants to wait a while before he gets it fixed. I'll be without a computer for the next week so if anyone has questions there will be a delay in my response. I don't have the part number for the "improved frame" My invoice does not show it.
Hi to all and thanks for the welcome. My friend is the service manager at a chevy dealer and I trust him, he explained it to me and I have seen 2 cradles with the bad/weak welds. It is hard to explain but i'll try. You can not see the part i am talking about unless you lift the car and slide way under it. You can see that big square aluminum frame under the engine. It is 4 square pieces of aluminum welded together to form a square. They call it the engine craddle. There are 2 "h" shapped pieces of aluminum sitting on rear of the square aluminum frame. (imagine looking at a square tube and resting a 2 inch wide h on it, the h would be faceing you and it would fit over the square tube, not on top of it) Each "h" is about 2 inches wide. The upper part of the h has a hole in it. That is where the rack and pinion bolts to. The Problem, it is only welded at it's feet, 2 inch wide on the front, 2 inches wide on the back. So if you put (lots of)pressure on the top of the h it will flex. The weakest weld flexes and makes the popping noise. The correct solution in that the entire "n" part of the "h" should be welded. It fits tightly over the frame and they could weld it from front to back if they wanted. I told you it was hard to explaine. On my first frame the weld was crooked. It started high, made good contact only in the middle and then when low. I saw it and it was actually broken. I did not see the bad weld on the second frame. As for "taking apart the entire front end just to stop a noise" It really is not that bad. The craddle only has about 6 bolts. All it holds is the lower control arms, rack and pionion, and an engine mount. They support the engine from the top and drop the craddle, control arms and all. It took them less than 2 hours to do it. I must add that It is a nightmare leaveing my(yours/any) car for anything at the dealer. Worst part was getting the grease off the speaker panel and arm rest. Hope this helps clear things up alittle. If you have the noise, get it fixed. If you do nothing then that is what chevy will do to correct this problem, nothing that is. He did tell me they are welding them better. and he can get them overnight. fingers falling off, must stop typing! Good luck to us all with this clicking Chuck K."
If any dealer technician has a 'doubt' show him a copy of these posts.
From Tomaso7
Vehicle Color: NAVY BLUE
Color code convention: NB
Engine type: Engine code: 3.8L = 3800 V6
Last six digits of the VIN number = 162595
Loaded = no options left
Build date = 09/00
Model = LS model
Owner location: Burlington [Toronto], Ontario, Canada
re: moulding [Canadian spelling] surrounding back licence plate. All 00 Impalas had paint surrounding it. For 2001 only the base model has paint while the LS has moulding around the plate. I didn't ask about this, I just viewed all the 2000s and 2001s I could and discovered the differences.
The Chevrolet dealer has been trying to determine, for months now, the cause of the hesitation problem, without success. One and one half months ago they replaced the ignition switch. This did not correct the problem.
Two weeks ago the service department placed a recording device inside my car. It would record sensors and misfiring on its own while driving. If the hesitation occurred, I was instructed to push a button on the recorder as the problem occurred. During the two-week period the problem occurred only once and was very slight. I pushed the button. The recorder was removed 3 days ago.
Yesterday, I again had a major hesitation problem as I was attempting to enter a busy street.
Today I returned the vehicle to the dealer. I was advised that the recorder had recorded a low voltage condition at the ignition switch when I pushed the button. The voltage had dropped by 3 volts. They are going to replace the ignition switch for the second time.
We will see what happens this time.
I think the recorded provided some good info in regards to the voltage drop but I think the ignition switch is just a symptom of another bigger problem.
Does this means your car has some sort of electrical problem??
What about the 'Fuel starvation' theory...is the dealer willing to look into this?
Have you considered getting rid of this car??
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=223638&a=10790790
I have seen pics of your car and it does really look beautiful..specially that dual exhaust job.
I am biased towards light metallic paints for they are better in hot climates such as Florida. dark colored cars tend to absorb much more heat so it is not a wise idea to get a car that magnifies the strong Florida heat.
Same with leather. Leather is fantastic for Snow country as it offers the widely acclaimed seat heaters. To me leather looks nice when its new but as the car ages, the material starts to crease, crack, fade and peel. To me the additional $1000 premium is not worth the investment where I live. Ironically, most Impala LS sold in the Miami area come trimmed in leather and with the heat burners....people around here are obsessed with leather interiors even if these make the car a hot oven under the sun.
My experience with the cloth trimmed seats has been very positive. They do hold up well and the car looks 'newer' for a longer period of time. The cloth might not be the best kind as for tactile feel, but I like it and I am very used to it. Besides, cloth works much better in warm climates than leather.
As for my replacement '01 Impala, I am heavely leaning towards a new Sandrift Metallic LS with 1SB, spoiler and cloth seats. After seeing the Sandrift up close and personal, I have warmed more to it and I actually like it. The Neutral interior is OK and as good as it gets if one doesn't want the prison cell gray color. Too bad there is not an interior color that meets half way from the gray and tan tones.
It is a shame GM discontinued the Light Driftwood Metallic and the Light Oak interior...what was wrong with it? I will miss this color on my '01 Impala for sure.
I should be behind the wheel of my new '01 sometime within the next week or so...I'll get pics of it once the whole process has been completed.
Cheers
I've not taken it in for this, as I was intently following this board to see what happened with others. I am now thinking of taking it in, especially with all the great info I have learned from here, as well as hard copies of the TSB...
the TSB for the shim material is as good as it possibly gets. I would suggest to take the car in and show them a copy of the TSB so they can order the shim material kit for the 2000 model year cradle. get it done..its free, costs nothing and will save you from many headaches.
If the noise comes back after the car is out of warranty, you get nailed with the cost of applying the TSB...not worth waiting for it to happen..get it fix and over and done with.
However, I'm worried about the marginal bumper bash. Hundreds of dollars damage at 5 MPH. Most of us will experience a minor fender bender every now and then. What's the ground clearance? Is there any way to avoid destroying the front bumper when it scrapes against a curb? ;-)
Reliability is also a concern. Is the Impala as reliable as a V6 Camry? The base model Chevy's engine seems powerful enough for freeway driving, and the safety cage is adequate. But I don't want a car that'll break down on a 110 degree August afternoon.
Less driver's headroom and legroom than the Toyota Corolla? That's hard to believe.
Impala
Front Headroom: 39.2 in. Front Leg Room: 42.2 in.
Corolla
Front Headroom: 39.3 in. Front Leg Room: 42.5 in.
What's a lot harder to believe is that the Corolla has more driver's legroom than the 2001 Dodge Dakota R/T Sport. Front Leg Room: 41.9 inches.
This is important to me because I'm six foot two. Of course, the Corolla is compact and the Impala is large, but I could swing either way. I'll test drive both. The Dakota doesn't interest me anyway. ;-)
Also, in the Impala, the part that 'scrapes' in the front end is not the front bumper assembly but the plastic 'chin spoiler' or plastic air dam extension. Unfortunately, this piece of black plastic scrapes against any ramp, curb or driveway slant...no way around it. It is a necessary 'evil' because it helps to provide the required extra air cooling to the engine's radiator (Notice the front grill is kinda small and narrow). Actually, the ground clearance of the Impala is a bit higher than either Camry, Accord or Corolla. The front bumper assembly, never even comes in close contact to a curb...is the pesky air dam spoiler. So as far as ride height...don't worry, the Impala rides higher than any other Japanese sedan.
Go and read the VW Jetta forums....massive problems with front bumpers that virtually scrape and drag against anything...if you are not careful in a parking spot with a concrete top, when you back up the Jetta you run the risk of leaving your entire front bumper behind....this is not an issue with the Impala.
V6 Engine reliability:::: Both 3400 V6 and 3800 Series II V6 engines offered in the Impala are 'gems' and the most reliable and powerful powerplants of any US made auto. The 3400 V6 found in the Base Impala model has been used in other GM applications for years, such as the Pontiac Grand AM GT, Olds Alero, and all current GM Minivans. It is a very reliable, sturdy and good powerplant with excellent gas mileage.
However, if you can shell out an extra $1000 I highly recommend for you to consider the Impala equipped with the 'award winning' 3800 Series II V6...one of Ward's auto 10 best engines in the world. The basic design of this engine dates back to the 1962 Buick V6, so this means that this powerplant has been constantly updated and refined for almost 40 years! Rest assured that this engine's bugs most have been all worked out by the year 1970!!! But make no mistake, this engine is one of the most refined 'Pushrod' passenger car V6 engines in the world. This is one of GM's finest powerplants....rock solid reliability, excellent power (200 HP), plenty of low end torque for fast getaways and most everyday driving conditions, fantastic fuel economy, ULEV emissions certified and dirt cheap maintenance costs (Just change the oil and keep on going). And to make the combo even better, the ultra smooth and reliable GM 4-speed auto is a delight to drive. With the 3800 V6 you get some extra goodies at no additional cost....4-wheel disc ABS brakes, Full time electronic traction control, Tire pressure monitor, Ride and Handling suspension and better tires and rims...it is definetely worth the extra $1K for these options.
The Corolla is a good car with a deserved reputation for quality..but..it is just a very expensive econobox. The engine is very good (uses Toyota VVT-i valve adjustment technology) but beyond that is just another small, overpriced and overhyped small car. I did test drove the Chevy Prizm (Which is the same exact car as the Corolla since they are built on the same assembly line only different body badging)and the engine is peppy and adequate but the car feels too cramped (I am just 5' 10") and the rear seat legroom is at a premium. Sheetmetal and paint are thin in the Japanese tradition and the car has none of the comforts, safety and amenities of the Impala.
I have seen Corollas (With Power windows, locks, auto, radio cassette) priced at $16 and $18 based on window MSRP...that's just insane. For not much more $$$ you can have a much more comfortable and safe sedan...the Impala.
The Impala enjoys excellent crash test score results...5 stars for the front and 4 stars for the side. Does the Corolla offers this kind of safety? No way it can't..it is a tinney sub-compact!!.
Check these crash test results before you buy:
www.nhtsa.org
www.highwaysafety.org
Front head room in the Impala is plentful...one of the most comfortable road trip cars on the market today.
test drive both...soon you'll see that the Impala is the winner in the contest hands down.
Enjoy!
To TEO:
From frankf3
Vehicle Color: Galaxy Silver
Color code convention: GS
Engine type: Engine code: 3.8L = 3800 V6
Last six digits of the VIN number = 229413
Loaded = All options except for AM/FM CD Cassette
equiped with AM/FM CD
Build date = 11/00
Model = LS model
Owner location: Easthampton, Massachusetts USA
How do you rate your A/C's performance on those strong 120F+ hot Phoenix days?
Tomaso7/0900/162595/LS/NB/3.8L/Burlington,Ontario Canada
Frankf3/1100/229413/LS/GS/3.8L/EastHampton,MA
Fathertyricius/1200/236620/LS/GS/3.8L/
I will answer your questions the best that I can.
The service department feels that the voltage drop at the ignition switch, and at the sensors, picked up by the recording device, is the fault of the ignition switch. They say that most power is supplied to the components, such as the sensors, through the switch. They feel that the first switch that they replaced was also defective.
The fuel starvation theory goes in one ear and out the other of the dealer. It is difficult for me to insist on something because I am by no means an expert on this car. It would appear that the service department is not as expert as maybe they should be.
I have considered getting rid of the car and maybe going to a 2001. I can no longer live with this problem. It is extremely dangerous for me and I refuse to allow anyone else to drive the car including my wife. Just trading the car for a new one can cost me a bunch for just 7 months use. The sales tax alone for the new car will be around $2000.00. I purchased this car in good faith and at this point I have not gotten my moneys worth.
If I were to trade this car, you can bet that it will go right back on the used car lot. I would not want to subject the new owner to the problem.
Thanks for your concern.
Ron
Sure black is hard to take care of. But you can't beat the looks!
I also added a new Accessories link.
http://home.hawaii.rr.com/impala/
Tomasso: I agree, the area that the defroster covers is not much--I never thought a defroster would be an issue with a car, but after yesterday, it is.
I'll ask my Service Manager..I am sure he can find out for me about the purpose of those two connectors.
I think you have a very good case for a buyback. Have you discussed about this with GM or your Serrvice Manager??
Also, try to become very intimate with your state's lemon laws. Have all your service and repair records neatly up to date. Also remember that the longer you have to put up with your problems the more you are compromising your own safety, the more difficult it gets to seek for legal relief should your car proves to be a lemon and the more miles you put in it...the more money you loose out of pocket (Mileage offset penalties).
If I were you I would have begun proceedings to get rid of the vehicle...
Engine: 3.8
Last 6 digits 158875
Loaded: except leather & sunroof
Build Date: 08/99
Model: LS
Location: Ramey, Puerto Rico USA
"audience" informed on all aspects. I currently have 3kmi on mine, no problems whatsoever so far. It's good to know what are the most common potential problems though.. Anyway, for the list:
Model: LS
Engine: 3.8
Color: Navy blue
Last 6 VIN digits: 161916
Loaded; all except sunroof
Build date: 09/00
Location: Boston, MA
As well I remember, it turned to be there are two separate heating elements on the rear window, with two separate connectors. One of them, well, did not connect. Easy fixed by dealer.