Toyota Tacoma: Problems & Solutions



  • wparker1wparker1 Member Posts: 13
    You are correct. I meant to say the 4.0 liter V-6. Now has anyone here ever had exeperience putting dual cat back exhaust on this truck before. I put Flowmaster cat back duals on a Dodge Dakota a couple of years ago and ruined the performance of the truck. Loss of back pressure killed the torque at low RPM's. Don't want that to happen to my new Tachoma. I love the looks of duals coming out the rear of my truck and would like to put cat back duals on it. :blush:
  • jimmerjimmer Member Posts: 9
    Labman2: My 4low problem has been fixed. I had the tranny replaced. It works fine now. If you have your dealer look at the part number for the tranny, you'll notice it's been changed! Because the tranny has been updated, probably! Toyota claims that a shaft seal from the tranny to the transfer case is leaking and contanimating the oil in the transfer case. Apparently toyota doesn't know that they use the same oil!! I bet if you check the stock at toyota you'll find that they actually have a bunch in stock. Why would they stock so many or any trannys for a brand new truck? My bud is actually my mechanic at the dealer, and has told me that they have had two more tacomas come in with the same problem! It's only with the 6 speed gear boxes. One guy said he'd take it back to his dealer, and the other taco is still being investigated! I guess toyota doesn't want to dish out new trannys! well good luck any more Q's just reply or e-mail. I hope this helps you cause factory toyota wasn't so good at helping the dealer out!
  • jennymjennym Member Posts: 2
    I am looking for info on how to purchase a fold-up cup holder for the backseat of our 99 Tacoma. We need another one in order to place two forward facing car seats in the back.
    When I called the dealer they stated they needed a stock # from Toyota to order another tray. When I called Toyota they stated they don't sell the cup-holder tray as a seperate item. Thank you so much for your help. I would like to eventually ride in the front again, without having to buy a new truck! Jen
  • chad4auchad4au Member Posts: 3
    Just got the 05 Double Cab SB 2wd with the TRD package and the engine seems a little louder than expected. When accelerating the engine seems to knock loudly. Has anyone else run into this? Is it normal? I talked to the service writer at my dealer and they said to give it the 3500 miles to break in and if it still was happening they would look into it. Just wondering if anyone else has had this issue. CP
  • missconductmissconduct Member Posts: 3
    We are having problems with our tacoma leaking water under the drivers and passsenger side floors. It leaks when it rains and when the AC is on. The service guy at the dealer said that something was clogged in the AC unit and that wouldn't be covered under warrenty. Does that sound right? I've heard that the rain water problem seems to be something wrong with the windsheild seal. Could the AC unit be giving us problems with both water problems? Any help yould be GREAT, we don't have the money for toyota to jerk us around if we can fix it ourselves.

    Thanks so much
  • missconductmissconduct Member Posts: 3
    Could anyone point me in the right direction to the "Service Bulletin Board"? And I have one more stupid question. What is a Service Bulletin Board?

    Thanks Again
  • sgwynnsgwynn Member Posts: 2
    I had a similar problem last year. The fix for mine was to remove the Mass Air Sensor from the intake path and carefully spray the two tiny wires inside with electronic parts cleaner, and re-assemble. Cleaned up all hesitation and starting problems since then, and cleared my 'check engine' light also. (this after 300.00 worth of O2 sensor replacement which didn't help).

    Cleaning the sensor is cheap, and you only seem to find out about it online.
  • tacoguytacoguy Member Posts: 12
    I finally set up a page with pix of my Tacoma "paint chip mobile".
    05 Tacoma Paint Chip Mobile
  • tacoguytacoguy Member Posts: 12
    In response to vwoatech statements...

    "...Integrated closed-box frame with unibody construction is extremely rigid and 93 percent unique to any Honda vehicle..."

    NOT A TRUCK?...YEEE... NO!:
    "2006 Honda Ridgeline Is First Ever Four-Door Truck to Earn Top Government Crash Test Rating"

    "2006 Honda Ridgeline Earns Best-Ever Rollover Rating for a Pickup"

    Not bad truck ratings for "a SUT". Besides, what do you suppose the "T" stands for in SUT?
  • KCRamKCRam Member Posts: 3,516
    Hi Missy

    I believe you're referring to TSBs - Technical Service Bulletins. These are bulletins sent from a manufacturer to dealerships identifying a problem among a common group of vehicles and how to repair them. The best place to find applicable TSBs for any given vehicle is

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • msibillemsibille Member Posts: 275
    (I guess you'll have to change your signin..)

    Seriously, I know firsthand how frustrating it can be to go thru what you did.
    After waiting/saving/etc. for 15 yrs, I finally bought my wife her first mini-van (1999). Unfortunately, that minivan model was fraught with transmission problems - thru 3 new tranny designs in fact. However, thru prayer and perserverence (obstinance?) the problem was eventually resolved. The key was to document everything, and approach the discussions calmly -in spite of my desire to choke something out of someone. She now has 70K miles on her 2002 minivan (yes, we went thru 3 before we got it right).
    The mfr? - Honda. Why did we not switch? Gosh I wanted to. But the wife loved the features of the Ody. (OTOH, I wanted to switch to the Toyota Sienna - this, of course, before their engine sludge issues came up, which Toyota eventually handled if you properly documented the prblms.) The point is, I could have bit the bullet and switched to the Yota van, losing a bit in the process, but then would have unfortunately ended in similar circumstances with a drivetrain issue.

    The point is- With one exception, it doesn't seem to matter which mfr, you can always end up with a prblm. If jumping to the Honda brings you peace of mind and a vehicle that serves your needs then that's what you needed to do. But for those that can grit their teeth and bear the burden of calmly pushing the case forward, abandoning the orig model you wanted so badly may not be the proper course.

    The one exception (for me)- Ford motor company. In spite of handling the prblms I had w/ a brand new 1984 Ranger (which spent 3 months of the first year in the dealership), Ford treated me badly. The regional rep went so far as to promise repairs at an out of town dealership (since the orig seller obviously wasn't capable), Then, after my vehicle sat for a week because he never gave the dealership authorization, I called and the clown tells me that he has changed his mind, that if I feel like I should sue, to do so. He went out of his way to abuse a customer -something that I still don't understand, absent a brain tumor. He could have just told me that they wouldn't fix it without a lawsuit in the beginning, but instead, he had me drive the vehicle out of town and leave it there for a week (my wife very pregnant at the time).

    So, you can understand why I say that Ford is an exception. Not that I'll say I'll NEVER buy another Ford -I just can't right now figure out how that will ever happen.

    OTOH, Honda handled the problems w/ my wife's van extremely professionally, although it did take a lot of time and patience, and was a situation that could easily have blown up into something ugly.

    Hoping that Xguy has a great ownership experience w/ his Honda, because nobody deserves to have it go bad twice.
  • lakermanlakerman Member Posts: 6
    I have the same problem, what was your fix. I've tried the fuel filter, new plugs, injector flush, coils and wires test ok. Help
  • rvaldezrvaldez Member Posts: 6
    I have a 2005 double cab taco with 1100mi. Ever since I purchased the truck a loud steady noise has been coming from my vehicle when I shift it into reverse, with airconditioning on, while backing up. I took it into Longo Toyota in El Monte, Calif. (the largest dealer in the USA). During the first inspection nothing was found. I left the truck over night and decided to go for a ride with the tech the next day. After driving the truck with the tech he said he heard a slight noise, but not pin point where the noise was coming from. He thought it might be coming from the hood and advise he would put some type of tape to block the sound, although I knew this would not work. I drove home in my second car and called the dealer to see if my taco was ready. To my surprise the service adviser said that the tech had located the noise and wanted me to come back in to verify it. I went back to the dealer and the tech was able to duplicated the exact same noise that had been bugging me and my wife. He stepped on the brakes and put the truck in reverse and there it was. I couldn't believe it. I thought I would be visiting the dealership over and over. The tech said that the noise was coming from the front fender area. They would have to take off the fender and insulate it or tighten something... Anyway, It will be ready in a day or two.

    My other issue is with the trucks ride. It rides very "bumpy" at freeway speed. The tech said he would check it out.

    I just wondered if any of you have had similar problems. Rick
  • girl3girl3 Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I drive a four cynlinder 1998 tacoma. it has been having a hard time starting; i'd either get a "click click" or it would start to turn over and then stop. its being towed to a mechanic right now; they think the starter needs a repair. 168.00.

    does that sound like a lot? i'm so bummed :(
  • 2k1trd2k1trd Member Posts: 301
    Is this the 4cyl engine?...if so they had some issues with the #1 cyl valves going bad and reducing compression resulting in check engine lights with missfire codes.
  • ohwaddafeelinohwaddafeelin Member Posts: 7
    Anyone else having this problem?....I just picked up my new 2005 Tacoma SR5 Crew Cab Longbed yesterday and began having intermittent loss of power steering almost immediately. It first occurred as I was trying to pull into a parking space, suddenly the steering became very heavy. Later it happened as I turned from one street onto another and I almost smacked a car on the other side of the street. Last night I found this string while googling "steering problem 2005 tacoma". I printed out the posts and took them along with my truck to the dealer this morning. On the way there were no incidents and I was afraid that I wouldn't be able to demonstrate the problem. When the tech took the truck to check it out, it immediately acted up for him (Yea!!) and they are repairing it. There are only two possibilities, the pump or the rack. I'm betting it's the pump and so was the service manager. The service manager was very helpful and courteous, he was even interested in the posts from this board. He said he would call Toyota and bring this problem to their attention. Anyway, I'll post back next week when I get my truck back and let you all know what was done and whether or not it is fixed!

    Also, I am experiencing a funny little shake and squirm from the tires (dunlops). It isn't severe but it annoying! Has anyone had a resolution to this issue?
  • rvaldezrvaldez Member Posts: 6
    I had the same problem I think. My 2005 taco double cab has dunlap tires and the ride was real choppy. I took it into the dealer and they balanced the wheels and reduced the tire pressure to 27 lbs. The problem was worse. I took my truck into a local tire shop and asked them for help. They balanced the wheels with a new machine they use for high preformance cars and told me the that the front tire drivers side had radial bumping. That is when they tried to balance that tire it jumpted at different intervals. To my surprise they gave me a new tire. They turned in a claim for the defective tire.. I drove home and no rough ride, no vibrating ride or steering. It was like night and day. My advise is to have the tires checked out by a speciality tire shop that warantees dunlaps or whatever tires you have on the truck. I hope this helps, Rick
  • rvaldezrvaldez Member Posts: 6
    Hello, got my truck back yesterday and the noise was corrected. The tech said they insulated the front fender. They corrected the clearance if that makes sense. They balanced my tires, but that was no help. I posted another message on the outcome of the tire problem. In short it was the dunlap front tire that was defective. I had it replaced by a local tire shop.
  • thistlethistle Member Posts: 16
    Hi Guys...
    About your noise at high speeds:
    A couple of other posts have addressed the same issue (check out the 2005 + forum) but in the meantime, from what I read from those who experienced the same problem, all seems to be from early on in the build year with a 1/2" gap in the bottom of the windshield... it "buzzed" above certain speeds and if the wind was blowing just right... same thing.
    I guess one guy happened to have a conversation with a windshield installer while he replace the windshield on his truck. The installer showed him a gap in the window gasket... (think it was making the windshield leak too.)
    I'm not sure if you already got the answer that you're looking for, but thought I'd pass along what I read. Maybe that's the same problem that you're having?
    Good Luck to you on your truck,
  • l5504l5504 Member Posts: 8
    Yeah, I did that. No good. Had the emission inspection done (it passed) and the guy there said to check the coil pack. If anyone has done this I'd like to know the results. Thanks.....
  • msibillemsibille Member Posts: 275
    Most likely issues-

    Bad ground (cheapest to check)-
    check all ground cables to battery and chasis, engine to chasis, generator to chasis, starter to chasis. A dirty/loose ground at high amperages used to start will easily drop 1/3 or more of your voltage.

    Bad battery-
    Battery voltage before starting should be no less than 12V

    Bad generator-
    Check cables/connections first, but voltage at battery when engine is running and generator charging should be between 13.5V and 15V.

    I would check and confirm the above WAY before I would check the starter.

    Next, bad starter solenoid. Check voltage going to starter from solenoid (if you can access it) when the engine cranks. -WARNING/DANGER - don't get anywhere that moving parts can injure you or catch on clothing, tools, instrument leads.

    Lastly, bad starter.
  • j_h_wj_h_w Member Posts: 1
    I just recently puchased a Tacoma 2005 double cab and I am having some kind
    of intermittent power steering problem. The problem has gotten worse but it is not completely out yet. It is like it is struggling to respond. And occasionally I need to really to use muscle to make the turn happen.

    Has anyone gotten this fixed yet?
  • dybrndybrn Member Posts: 1
    I have been having the exact same problem with my 1995 tacoma 2.4L 2wd.
    I have found that after I've driven for a while on a hot day, and I turn the engine off it will sometimes start back up, but only immedialy after I turn it off... if I let it sit for about 5-10 minutes then the only way for me to start it again is to wait for about 30 min, or roll it a bit then pop the clutch....

    I have taken it to my mechanic a couple of times now and he has been unable to fix it thus far (probably because he couldn't reproduce the problem).. He says after the all the changes stuff he has tried he has come to the conclusion that it is the igniter.... and told me it will be EXPENSIVE to replace....

    I dont think it's a fuel problem because I do not get any hesitation during acceleration or normal idle... has anyone tested the vapor lock solution?

    I will probably end up replacing the igniter and will let you all know if this fixes it. Now if I can just find one for cheep.

    Steven Allen (dybrn)
  • ohwaddafeelinohwaddafeelin Member Posts: 7
    I would take your truck in ASAP. Losing power steering at the wrong moment could be catastrophic! My dealer has mine (w/ 14 miles on it!) and is waiting to hear back from Toyota about what action to take. I should know something later today. It could only be a bad pump or bad rack.
  • ohwaddafeelinohwaddafeelin Member Posts: 7
    The dealer has informed me that after consulting Toyota's California HQ that they will be replacing the entire power steering system including pump, rack, and lines. Sounds like they are scared to do less and they have a problem on their hands. Based on the number of people who have posted here with the same problem, I'd say they have a recall coming. :lemon:
  • lakermanlakerman Member Posts: 6
    did you have your timing belt changed and the crankshaft maybe out abit. that's what happened to me.
  • lakermanlakerman Member Posts: 6
    we think we got it, this was on the v6,the timing belt was changed four months ago and the poblem was crankshaft pulley was out of line, weird that it took 4 months before it became a problem, been driving it for a 100km with no light knock on wood.we had changed the spark plugs and the platinums screwed things up worse, replaced fuel filter and did an injector flush also. Hope this helps others.
  • lakermanlakerman Member Posts: 6
    go to toyota and check with them, don't put in bosh or platinums makes a mess with misfires.
  • hunter10hunter10 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 99 tacoma v-6, and its loss about a 1/4 or 1/3 of it's power. From half throttle on it has no pickup at all , and about 3000 rpms the engine makes a moaning sound, is there anyone who knows what this could be. We have checked the converter, mass airflow sensor. This thing has about the same amount of power or less than the 4 cylinder engine, would appreciate any help.
  • pasvortopasvorto Member Posts: 8
    I have a 2001 Tacoma. I replaced (myself) the power steeringpump at 45,000 miles. There was no way I was going to give Toyota $700 for a simple job like that, on a truck that new.
  • wparker1wparker1 Member Posts: 13
    My new Leer cap arrived today and was installed. Its gorgeous. However the installer pointed out to me two gaps in the top sides of the tailgates that appear to be about 1 inch wide. He discovered it when he was washing down the back of the truck after the cap installation. Water went right into the bed of the truck on both sides. I under stand from aonother forum that Toyota says this is normal. Not in my book!! Has anyone else ran into this problem. I just spent big bucks to install a cap over the bed to keep it dry. Now the gaps around the tailgate are letting water come in. I'm taking it inot the Toyota dealer tomorrow to have them look at it! :cry::cry:
  • ohwaddafeelinohwaddafeelin Member Posts: 7
    I have a Jason Infinity cap on order right now. I looked into getting a Swiss cap and was told by the company that they had problems with them leaking. Both the Swiss and the Leer are unskirted caps, that is they don't extend down to cover the bed liner rails. The Jason cap does. Their factory rep told me that they have a 2005 Taco for a company truck and their cap doesn't leak at all. I'll report back when I get it.
  • ohwaddafeelinohwaddafeelin Member Posts: 7
    My Toyota dealer has offered to give me another truck to replace mine because the parts aren't quickly available to fix it! They have to replace the entire power steering system. They have an identical 2005 Taco D-cab in silver with the same equipment as my truck. You can believe I will take it for a long test drive.
    Performance Toyota in Fairfield, Ohio has to be the best new car dealer I have ever heard of!
  • msibillemsibille Member Posts: 275
    First places I would look would be intake and exhaust.
    You mentioned you checked the converter. In addition to making sure the converter allows full flow, check for damaged/crushed pipes, damage to muffler, etc. (Converters have been known to loose ceramic substrate which gets blown back to obstruct the muffler.)

    Next, check air intake. No foreign matter blocking the air intake (all the way to the outside opening /entrance of the intake duct to the air filter, and on to the engine intake). Air filter?

    Next, fuel system. When was the fuel filter last changed? If you can't flow full rating of fuel, you can't get full hp. Check for damaged/crimped lines from fuel tank all the way to the injectors.

    Then fuel pump. Now things get pricey.

    While there could be ignition issues, the fact that you're not reporting rough running would make me look at exhaust and intake first, restricted fuel delivery second.

    You could also have a number of sensor errors, but you don't report a MIL lamp lit, so I'm starting w/o that assumption. But if you have a lighted MIL, you need to plug in an OBD II reader and get the code(s). (Have you checked to see that the MIL lamp is working? It should light when you first turn the key to on, but before the engine starts.)
  • ccsuhoopsccsuhoops Member Posts: 2
    Hello all, I'm having a problem and I'm curious if anyone has had the same b/f I get taken by a mechanic. It's an intermittent problem. My vent, tach, speedometer, odometer, temp and gas gauge don't work. The problem began on Monday when all of the above cut out, then came back for a few minutes, its been 5 days w/ everything on and it cut off yesterday only to come on for a few minutes today along w/ the check engine light which is new. Any suggestions? I've checked the fuses and the connection to the battery and all is fine.

  • ulteriormodemulteriormodem Member Posts: 2
    Greetings everyone, first time poster Ill try to be clear.

    I own a 1996 2.4 litre (4 cylinder) Toyota Tacoma. Manual 5 speed transmission. 2 wheel (rear) drive.

    We recently started to take a trip and stopped at a rest stop. I decided to check the fluids and when I pulled the dipstick for the oil I nearly passed out. Bone dry ! not one quart ! The oil light had NOT come on. The oil light does light as it should before starting engine.

    I put in a quart of oil I had left from my last oil change (about a week ago) and got off at the next exit and added 3 more. We drove about another half hour and checked oil again. Nearly empty again ! Speaking of the oil change I was concearned when only about 1 quart of oil came from the engine & oil filter.

    To make a long story short we went through about 8 quarts of oil in about 300 miles.

    There are no signs of oil leakage on the exterior of the engine or on the frame or on the oil filter or the drain plug. There are no oil spots under the parked vehicle. I am guessing the oil is comming out while at speed but there should be some evidence somewhere of 2 gallons of leaked oil !! :confuse:

    It does not appear to be burning the oil a plug check showed dry and grey. At that rate of loss oil should be dripping out the tail pipe and the plugs fouled to the point of no spark.

    Any clues I am totally stumped not to mention a ruined vacation.

  • ulteriormodemulteriormodem Member Posts: 2
    Only thing I can think of is to try to take out and re-seat the fuse. It may be an intermittant connection. Check for signs of corrosion or oxidation clean if necessary and replace.
  • ccsuhoopsccsuhoops Member Posts: 2
    The fuse did look like it had some corrosion on the two metal pieces. Could that be the cause of this?
  • msibillemsibille Member Posts: 275
    It's possible it's corrosion, but it would likely have to be pretty bad for them to all go completely dead. None the less, cleaning that up is cheap and relatively easy.

    However, the most common cause of what you describe is a bad ground.
    The dash and instruments are likely to have a number of grounds to chasis.

    Do you have instrument panel lights when you turn on the parking or head lamps?
    If so, when you flip on the lights, do you see any flicker or movement in the gages?
    Bad grounds are the number one cause of DC maladies, especially those that come and go. Unfortunately, under the dash they can be very difficult, and lead to dramatic expansion of your vulgar vocabulary...

    You can try establishing a separate ground btwn the metal of the dash and the chasis, but more often than not the ground has to be established to a conductor in a harness or to the circuit board ground plane by a "instrument cluster ground".

    Good luck
  • artie43artie43 Member Posts: 2
    My Son just ordered an 05 Tacoma. The dealer salesman told him that at 5K he would have to have the dealer service dept turn off the reminder lite. Is this for real? What a bunch of crap. Sounds like Toyota is getting greedier. Any feedback on this?
  • msibillemsibille Member Posts: 275
    The service reminder light will come on to remind him to have oil and filter change.
    The instructions for turning off the light (actually resetting) are in the owner's manual.

    As for greed- it's not Toyota, since it's in the manual. It's the dealer if they were going to charge him to do that instead of just telling him to look in the manual. I've got one better. My wife actually had the oil changed at the Honda dealer. However, she did not accept their 30+ point service pkg. (Half of which were bogus items like "lubricate propeller shaft u-joints" -first, it's front wheel drive so it has no propeller shaft or u-joints, 2nd, it's been about 25 yrs or so since passenger vehicles had u-joints capable of accepting lube fittings.) She told them, truthfully, that I would perform the balance of the mfr's recommended maint. (Which at that time/mileage was to rotate the tires, check fluids.) When she picked up the vehicle and the light was still illuminated, she asked them if they'd forgotten. The svc writer told her that since she didn't accept the complete svc pkg, it would cost $35 for them to reset the svc indicator light. Wisely she waited to ask me about it.
    OTOH, this guy is an atypical jerk. Several others there are fine to deal with. I finally had to call the svc director and tell him if they wanted my biz, they needed to ensure that I never had to spk with this guy again.
  • v1s1torv1s1tor Member Posts: 1
    You may want to check inside of the radiator. If you have blown a head gasket, it is possible that the oil is being pushed into your cooling system. At times, you could instead notice water in your oil. Just a suggestion.
  • artie43artie43 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the info. I will have him look in the service manual. I thought it should be there. As I recall BMW started this nonsense many years ago. I have never considered owning a BMW because of this fact and the RWD. Guess I will have to live my life without the joy of a BMW. :) ">
  • keks1keks1 Member Posts: 7
    I'm so glad I found this site. I also have a new 05' Tacoma, dbl cab 6 speed trd.
    I noticed this morning that my maintenance light came on. I'm @ 5k right now. What do I have to do? I didn't get a chance to look at the manual. If it says I should change the oil, I can do that. Is there a certain oil filter or oil that I should use? I didn't want to take it in to Toyota, only because I can do it myself and I don't really them doing things I can't see. What do you suggest? Should I just take my truck to them? ;)
  • nevinnevin Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1995 Toyota Tacoma with 150L miles on it. 4L engine, 4wd. This is a used vehicle newly purchased. We are just now noticing a single, distinct knock (or a thunk or a pulse?) immediately after shifting from 1st into 2nd; then also from 4th into 5th and 5th back into 4th. Seems to coincide with the release of the clutch pedal just as the truck is transitioning into the new gear. Truck seems to be driving fine and the gears stay in place. What is this? Thanks...
  • mike4onemike4one Member Posts: 1
    Tacoma PreRunner,automatic trans. This problem began as an intermittent starting problem. Sometimes when the key was turned it started, other times there was just one click. The last time it cranked I had to repeated turn the key 10 or more times before it took. So I figure battery, cables, selenoid, or starter. Battery checked out fine. Brushed, cleaned and reconnected cables and contacts. Still no luck. Then (foolishly) I went for the starter. Put in a new starter. Turned the key one time, heard one click, and now the entire electrical system is dead. No headlights, no dome light. I can't even get the transmission out of Park. What happened? What do I do now? HELP!
  • mikefm58mikefm58 Member Posts: 2,882
    " I didn't get a chance to look at the manual "

    In the time it took to type in your post, you could have found the answers to all your questions in the owner's manual. I'll never understand why so many people don't look in their owner's manual before asking questions.
  • msibillemsibille Member Posts: 275
    You'll find it in the operator's manual that should be in the glove box.
    (It's also in the svc manual, but no need to go that far.)

    Actually, my 1994 Suzuki Sidekick had a similar system, though it was OBD I.
    The newer systems (as in the taco) are much simpler. On the 94 Sidekick, you had to go under the dash and flip a switch. That would leave the light off for the next interval, after which you'd have to flip the switch back the other way.

    W/ the newer ones, the combination of holding the button down while turning the key on is much simpler and really no difficulty.
  • msibillemsibille Member Posts: 275
    If you've ever changed oil in an automobile or pickup, you certainly don't need to bring the 05 Taco in to the dealer. Oil Grade info is in the operator's manual in the glove box, but also on the filler cap under the hood. Follow the mfr's recommendations. The oil filter is right out in front of you when you lift the hood, just to the right of center. There's a catch basin around the base of the filter to catch the leaks. If you feel under it, you'll find a tube,capped with rubber. Slide the rubber cap off, and either connect a small hose to the tube, dropping the other end into your waste oil receptacle on the floor below the engine, or, as I did, use a plastic water bottle wedged in btwn the coolant hose and shroud to catch the oil. Remove the filter and the drainback goes in the bottle for disposal.

    As for filters, select a good quality aftermarket or the OEM Toyota filter.
    I personally like Purolator, but there are plenty of other good quality filters.
    Drain the old oil, put in the plug. Then add the filter.
    Many will disagree, but I suggest prefilling the filter w/ fresh oil before installing. Fill thru the center hole, then with the filter slightly tilted, rotate it to allow the oil to go into the canister, wetting the filter media. You've got it right when there's just a little oil in the center hole. Spin it on till the gasket touches, then about 3/4 turn.

    Use the dipstick to tell when it's full, not just counting quarts. Fill the crankcase and when full, replace the cap. Start the engine observing the oil press light which should go out in a couple of seconds (particularly if you prefilled the filter). Shut down the engine. While you're gathering up tools and waste to dispose of, let the engine sit to drain back. Recheck the oil level and add as necessary. It 's important to be in the full zone, but do NOT overfill. Better to be 1/4 qt low than overfull, though the closer to full, the cooler the oil. (A 1/4 qt will have no measurable effect.)

    With the filter right out front like it is, I decided to write mileage and date on the filter (Purolator is white, so black indelible marker works great).

    Just make sure that you use a brand name motor oil, of the grade and viscosity recommended. (I haven't looked recently, but I think its 5W30, API SL.)

    Some will recommend synthetics, and while they are better in theory, any good name brand oil of the proper grade and viscosity, maintained properly, will give you great service. (More to be lost by accumulating moisture, acids and contaminants by not servicing it at the proper intervals than the difference between regular motor oil and spending big bucks on fancy synthetics or blends.)
  • bhawkbhawk Member Posts: 1
    My 05 Tacoma (4x4 makes a pop/slaping sound (similar to the sound of running over a flattened popcan) when I go over even the smallest bump or seam in the road. I can only hear it when the window is down and at residential speeds. Dealer can't seem to locate where or why the noise is coming from but acknowledged the problem. Any ideas or solutions would be appreciated.

    In regards to some other posts here, I too have had the whistling sound from my windshield at 120km/hr on a very warm day. I also feel that the brakes on this truck are rather spongy.
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