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Toyota Tacoma: Problems & Solutions



  • I have the same problem. Mine is a '99 v6 4wd, 132k miles. I have an engine code also (P0171). Any luck yet? I have a few things to look for after surfing the boards.
  • Which hose was it? Any info would help.
  • I own a 99 Tacoma V6 Prerunner Auto with 95k miles and I am having problems with my transmission. It will slip from 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 1st. The slipping usually is not to hard - feels more like it 'pops' into gear going up and down, but sometimes it will slam into gear.

    Also, starting last week it has been slipping at speed. When cruising at 50 mph I will hit the accelerator, it downshifts smooth and all is good, but when I let off the gas and it shifts into 4th (I assume) it has been really rough, almost slamming into gear.

    I would rather not have to get my transmission taken apart for someone to figure out the problem, so I am wondering if anyone has any ideas that could help.

    I appreciate any insite!

  • Changing from Dunlop to Firestone is like trading in a Kia to get a Hyundai. I had vibes in my Tundra until I bought Bridgestone AT (not APT). Bridgestone is sold by Firestone, but is 100% better.
  • Not sure what is going on but My 99 Tacoma did the same thing. 2.7 litre Click when started sometimes I would try ten key turns also before it took. I went to the auto zone and picked up a cold weather starter becasue other option does not fit. i replaced the starter and she runs just fine again. Did you put the starter cables back in same place. I think they only go one way on the 99 but not sure about the 98
  • My 99 Taco did the same thing nothing but clicks then it would start. some times 10 clicks. I went to auto zone paid 160 for starter after returning core of the old one. Truck runs fine now. 2.7 litre is what I have and the cold weather starter is the only one that will fit. 2.0 kilowat starter.
  • It sounds great I have a minekee catback on may tacoma 2.7 and sounds throaty. Also a K&N cold air intake sounds very good excpecialy on the 3.4 litre
  • I have a 1998 Tacoma Pre-runner 4Cyl. Sluggish between 55-60 MPH, struggles on slight inclines. Just over 70,000 miles. I took it to Toyota of Augusta for a tune up. Toyota of Augusta said $4500 for a new engine head. HELP!!! It runs better with a half tank or more of gas. Runs real bad with less than a 1/4 tank. HELP! :cry:
  • mikefm58mikefm58 Posts: 2,882
    Simple, just keep your gas tank between 3/4 and full. Sorry for the pun. $4500 seems quite high, get a 2nd opinion, heck how much can a whole new engine cost?
  • I can't imagine how fuel tank level can interact w/ the engine head.

    I would look at fuel filter and fuel pump. (or even water in your fuel tank. water will accumulate at the bottom, the pickup scrn on most vehicles follows the float, so at low levels -usually more like the last 1/4 tank- the performance might get ugly.)
  • have a 97 4x4 tacoma 3.4L. Got wet, 1 foot in cab. Sat for about 36hr's in water. No water in engine oil or fuel. No water in top of cylinders at least as far as it can be determined by looking at plugs. Air cleaner was wet and muddy. Have spark at plugs. have fuel to cyclinders. Exhaust doesn't seem to be plugged. ECM seems to have stayed dry. Engine turns over. battery was recharged, seems strong. Wont start! Would appreciate any help to get it running
  • I have the same problem. Shimmy between 55-65 MPH that comes and goes. Outside temperature does not seem related nor does whether the tires are cold or warm. The only thing I can possibly tie it to is that it seems to be worse after I have made a tight (almost to the stops) left hand turn. Tires are BIG Rugged Trail T/A. Tire pressure is kept to specs.
    Am going to the dealer tomorrow for my 5th visit on this problem. The NY/NJ Service rep is supposed to be there to review the problem. In past visits the dealer said that the tires may need to be 'road force' balanced but they do not have the equipment to do this. There is an independent shop in town who can do this but the dealer has not taken the truck to them for balancing.
    From what I read in the forums the problem is not related to tire type so am guessing the problem is in suspension/drive train somewhere.
    Keep me updated on your success, if any.
  • That sounds reasonable enough. I will start research in those areas. It's just hard for me to imagine replacing the engine on a Toyota truck with only 70k miles. Due to my occupation, the truck was sitting in storage for about 3yrs. Thanks for the info..........
  • Sitting in storage for 3 yrs- I'm doubting the new head theory even more now.
    I'd look very closely at the fuel tank. (Was it full or empty when stored? Did you use any fuel stabilizer before setting it up e.g. Stabil or equiv.?)

    If it had 3 yr old fuel without stabilizer, or an empty tank with varying temperatures, I'd drain the fuel tank and change filters now.
  • Did the new wheels help? My dealer changed my tires from the dunlop 245/75/16 to Yokahma Geolanders. Still have a small amout of shake at 60-65. I have the alloy wheels, bright chrome. What wheels did yours come with?
  • Just bought a 2005 Toyota Tacoma Prerunner 2wd automatic. Love it. Only thing is is that it seems to be a bit rought when shifting from 1st to 2nd gear and when it is down shifting and reaches about 30-32 MPH. Anybody else experience this? Any cause for concern? I called the dealer where I bought it from and they said that was pretty natural for Toyotas. Don't know whether to believe them or not. Thanks!
  • I've had my truck for 5 years now with no problems. Put truck into 4wd the other day and my auto lcoking hubs aren't locking. My indicator on the dash isn't lighting up and I can feel that the front wheels aren't grabbing. Does anyone have any experience with this and how to fix. Or suggestions on a simple fix???? Thanks so much.
  • Because the runability is in direct proportion to the fuel level, it definately sounds like a fuel pump/filter problem. The lower the tank gets, the harder the pump has to work to suck fuel out. I would guess that the filter on the end of the pump within the tank is plugging up. Usually the in-tank pump works 100% one minute and dies the next. I don't know how hard it is to replace the pump (gotta drop the tank unless there is a access hole above the tank), but for the cost, I think it is where you should start. Even if that doesn't fix the problem, it will be good preventative maintenance as the pumps die within 10 years anyway alot. May end up keeping you from breaking down on the highway down the road. I really think it will fix your problem anyway. Also, try having your tank almost empty so you can drain and flush it while it is lowered.
  • I had the same problem with my jeep many years ago. I believe this truck has vacume operated selenoids. Check for hoses (or electrical wires if it is electrically activated) at the front gearbox assembly. Check connections, hoses and even follow them up to the engine compartrment to see if they are disconnected up there. If it is electrical, check fuses too.
  • I have a 2002 Toyo with a small lift on it. It has a 1" block on the back and 21/2" adjustable springs on the front. I bought the truck used and even when I was test driving it I noticed when the truck came to a stop there was "thump". The previous owner said that it always did it. I looked underneath and saw where the thump was coming from. It looks like the mount that supports the transfer case has a bolt in it with a rubber grommet. I think it is designed to allow the transfer case to move vertically but should I have that much play that I get a thump every time the truck stops? The truck only has 40k on it and its the best piece of equipment I have ever owned even with this slight problem. Any ideas or suggestions?
  • Finally have a vibration and steering wheel shake free 2005 Tacoma. After 4 trips to the dealer and a new set of Yokohama Geolanders they took the truck to My tire dealer who finally got it balanced. I was not there but I know they have a Haweka Adapter. I feel they used it to balance my truck. I will call them tomorrow to find out what was wrong. Good Luck with your truck.
  • I too am an unfortunate member of the shimmy club. I have had my 05 taco for about a week and the shimmy is driving me crazy. Am going to the dealer today with all of the postings I have found in this forum. The dealer really wants to get to the bottom of this. They are very reputable. Has anyone found a solution yet? I tried removing the skid plate and it made the problem worse. Will keep you all posted.
  • Been There. You need to have your tires "road forced" balanced. It appears that Tacomas and 4 Runners are very sensitive to out of balanced tires. The Shimmy will go away with the proper balance. It took me about 4 trips and a second set of tires before 900 miles. Got my truck back yesterday, no shake, vibration or shimmy. Good luck.
  • Dealership did that. The road force still did not work. The dealer told me it is the crappy Dunlop tires. They are putting on Michelins Monday and road forcing again. Will keep all posted. Glad to hear of your success. :D
  • When I drove the new truck home, going over 40mph or so, I hear a noise. It sounds like the windshield isn't sealed and air is coming through. The noise is a sort of fluttering noise. It's very distracting and annoying to have a brand new vehicle with an issue so soon. Anyone know anything about this?
  • My girlfriend owns a 98 tacoma and we dont know what is wrong with it. It will not start, or even attempt to turn over. I took out the starter, and had it tested. That came out good. Took out the battery to see if cells were good. That turned out good. Then we replaced terminal on battery. It fired up once and ran for a bit. Then tried to restart it to no avail. Even checked the relay, that was in good order. I need help!!! :confuse: :(
  • Do you get a clicking sound (the relay or "starter solenoid" attempting to close) or absolutely nothing happens when you turn the key? When the key is in the "on" position, do the dash lights illuminate, radio and fan work?

    If you get a clicking from the starter relay,you are probably not getting full voltage to starter and relay. Check for bad grounds (battery, engine to frame, starter to frame,etc.) This is the most common prblm when the starter and battery are OK. If you're not even getting a click or clatter, then it may be your starter switch itself .
  • Mine came with the Dunlops on it and I hate them. I put the Mickey Thompson Classic II wheels on my truck. I wasn't going to pay Toyota $1,340 for a set of their Enkie wheels. Wheels helped some but I still have a little shake at 65 in the steering wheel. :(
  • Hey guys, I am chaning out my grille for a chrome Billet top and bottom this week. The Mickey Thompson Classic II wheels are on and they look really nice.I am also having the fog lights wired to run from the switch at same time. Only thing left to do is put the Dual Exhausts on it. I still have not heard from anyone who has successfully put a dual cat-back on one of these trucks. Borla is trying to sell me their system but it is really just two pipes on one side. Flowmasters are too loud.
    Surely someone has experimented with duals on this new V-6? I really want to do this but want to hear from someone else who has experienced it first hand. :blush: Need some help here?
  • You will find out the first time it rais if the windshield is not sealed for sure. All vehicles make noise to a certain degree. As long as your steering wheel is not shaking, sounds like you are alright. Play the radio and look for water when it rains :shades:
  • Hi,

    could someone please help me? I want to buy an Extang soft tonneau cover (like Classic or Blackmax) but i can't figure how did the frame was fixed to the bed. In their aplication charts, they list these models for the Tacoma 2005, but they usually use clamps and there's no "lips" on the composite bed to attach them.

    Any idea???

    Thanks for your input.

    Montreal, QC, Canada
  • mrw1mrw1 Posts: 2
    I love my 05 tacoma 4cyl, 5speed, prerunner. When I start it up it revs to 2100 rpms, then it will drop back down to about 1500 rpms until it's warmed up.
    The dealer said this is normal, I don't think so. Anybody else having this happen?
  • This is normal with almost every new vehicle now. It's an emissions thing. The faster the emissions equipment comes up to operating temperature the more crap it can remove.
  • Thanks for that information - I had noted the same "start up" rev that only seems to last a couple of seconds on my 05 V6 Tacoma.

  • I posted this in the 2005+ forum...maybe related issues:

    I don't have wind noise in the location you describe but I do have an irritating whistling outside the driver's window at highter speeds. My 05 is less than a week old, so I'm still testing. I also hear an odd noise that I can only describe as running water in the dash when giving it gas at low speeds. This seems to stop after the truck is warmed up. Anyone else hear something similar? Is it normal? Incredible truck, though - big difference from my '97 taco (which still runs like a charm)
  • Update on the shimmy club Seems that there is a defect in the steering rack in the 4 runners. The Tacoma and 4 runner have identical racks and are interchangable. If you are unfortunate enough to wind up with a 4 runner rack in your Tacoma, it will make your steering shake and vibrate. Changing tires and road force balancing is only a patch and not a fix. As tires wear, the shimmy will be back. Need to check steering rack and have it replaced with the right one before warranty runs out. Do not take double talk for an answer. I found this out through a dealer in Raleigh, NC that I happens to be a member of my congregation that I work with and he told me the straight scoop on this problem. My Taco is fixed and I elected to keep the Dunlops to save my friend 1000 bucks for the Michelins that did not help. Good luck to all. Hope that your dealer is reputable as mine :)
  • You have a defective steering rack in your truck. You need to have it replaced. This is a common problem with 4 runners and Tacomas. Do not let your dealer feed you with a line of bull. Have them check it out.
  • ram5ram5 Posts: 12
    Does anyone have a schematic on how to wire a 4 pin wire harness for a trailer? This is for 97 Tacoma p/u. It did not have a factory tow package. The brake bulb and turn signal are separate. What do I need to connect the wire for the brake and signal? I also connect the tail light which part of the brake light but when you step on the brake the light on the trailer goes dim. Any suggestion are appreciated. San Antonio, Texas
  • Std trlr harness color code: White is ground, Green and Yellow are turn/brake signals, brown is running/tail lights.

    DO NOT just tap into the wires of your Taco.

    You have to have a converter that connects to the tail lamp line, the right turn, and left turn wires, and outputs the correct signals for the trailer harness' right and left combination turn/brake lamps. Also, some vehicle systems supply the power for trailer lights from a separate line, the taps off the vehicle lamps being just the relay inputs. If needed the aftermarket kits or Toy pkg will have that builtin.

    Best is to either buy a prebuilt adapter/converter from aftermarket mfr like Hoppy, or buy from Toyota. (Those that are adept w/ electronics could make their own in theory, but to do so as compactly and reliably would cost nearly as much as buying aftermarket and is not worth the trouble.)

    The kit will have the instructions.
  • I have a 03' Toyota Tacoma that chirps or squeeks (usually in 1-3 gear) under the hood. It sounds like it might be a belt squeeking, but the mechanic tightened the belt and said that wasn't the problem. When I ride the clutch or press the clutch down the sound goes away. Any ideas? Any help would be greatly appreciated!
  • Have them check the clutch assembly, especially the throwout bearing, and replace if necessary. I would also have them resurface or replace the flywheel and replace the clutch disc and pressure plate at the same time since they will have to remove the transmission to check the clutch assembly. The whole job including a full clutch assembly and labor shouldn't be more than 500$.

    If that isn't the problem I would start looking at the engine main thrust bearing as the culprit. If it is the main thrust bearing or something else I have no idea on costs. This will also require the removal of the transmission.

    You probably already know this but I'll say it anyway: Don't ever operate your vehicle with your foot resting on the clutch pedal, even if it is only lightly. The only time you should have your foot on that pedal is when you are changing gears or holding the clutch full out while in gear (coasting, stopped at a light, etc.). If the clutch fork is anywhere between full in and full out the pressure plate spring is putting pressure on the throwout bearing. If you rest your foot on the pedal there is constant pressure on the bearing causing it to wear much faster than normal.
  • ram5ram5 Posts: 12
    Thank you for your feedback. I did e-mail the one of the Dealers here in San Antonio and received a call from them. But. did not have clue. He did mention that they don't sell a wiring harnes for the truck.
  • Sounds like you need another dealer.

    You can go to one of the online Toy parts dealers, or,for a lower cost, as noted before, buy aftermarket converter and harness. Hoppy and others most likely sell them. Search for trailer light harness, trailer light converter, etc. Most online dealers for DrawTite, Pullman, and other major hitch mfrs will have either DrawTite, Hoppy, or other harness and converter products.

    While it is possible to home build, it requires some level of electronics knowledge and is not cost effective. Again, don't try to direct splice.
  • My 05 Tac. reg cab, 4 cyl. Cd player heats up the CD's and occationally they will not eject all the way out. I need to use twizzers or long nose pliers to pull out the cd. Any one have this problem ?
  • My 4 cyl does the same. Get used to it, it's normal.
  • l5504l5504 Posts: 8
    Hey gotp8nt. Did you ever get your hesitation problem fixed? I took mine to another dealership and there lead mech said there's been other people in with the same problem and that he could not figure out what was wrong. Man... What fun huh...
  • I just bought a gorgeous '95 Tacoma from an individual. The mileage is almost 102K. One of the few problems I have with it is the check engine light is on. The previous owner had it checked out, but each place that checked it out had a different answer for him. I had my uncle (who is also the best mechanic I know)check it out before I bought it and he said that the engine is sound. His suggestion was that in some imports, the check engine light alert is tied into the odometer. Once the odometer hits a preset mark, the light comes on in order to signal the driver to get a new oxygen sensor. A new sensor is not always needed, but the light is supposed to come on at a certain mileage point. Any confirmation of this suggestion or other ideas?
  • msibillemsibille Posts: 275
    I can't say as to whether or not your uncle is right, but it sounds plausible. Although, I would expect it to come up with a mfr specific code that would specifically address the replacement of the sensor.

    I would try using a code reader to check the codes (again, the code only tells you the component that is not giving the computer the answer it "expects", or the component that is most likely the cause of conflicting inputs to the computer, so it may not be the actual problem). In any event, record the error codes and diagnostic info, then reset the (erase) the error codes. Drive it again and see what comes of it. If it doesn't return, then I'd guess your uncle hit is on the head. If it does, then I'd look into the diagnostic codes for clues to the actual problem.

    [A lot of aftermarket autoparts places will plug in code reader for you at no charge -largely because they would like to sell you the parts. Get them to plug it in, you write down the code info, and ask the guy to reset it so you can see if it just a temporary glitch.]
  • I have a 2005 Dble Cab Tacoma and a whistling high pitch annoying noise coming from what seems to be the windshiled right behind the rear view mirror. This will be the third time and second part/seal they will replace. I am convinced it is the windshield but they are not. Only happens when I go over 70 mph and a gust of wind from only certain directions...Anybody haver an idea? Extremely frustrating...
  • Hello everyone:

    My 05 Taco (Dbl cab, SB) seems to have engine detonation, but only when the air conditioner is on. I am not sure if it is actually detonation, but it sure sounds like it. And it also only does it immdiately after an upshift. As speed increases after an upshift the sound trails off. Or, I can turn of the a/c and it doesn't happen at all. Any comments would be appreciated.
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