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Toyota Tacoma: Problems & Solutions

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  • I live in Minnesota. It gets kinda cold here, too. All I have ever used is a tank heater. It goes in the water line. Keeps the water warm, which keeps the block warm.
  • morgan5morgan5 Posts: 13
    Looking for help. I have an '03 Tacoma TRD, 6cyl and automatic. I recently bought it used, excellent shape and only 20k miles. I've owned other trucks, but not a Toyota before. I have noticed that when I come to a stop, there is this sort of delay clunk, like the transmission is just going into gear. The same clunk often sounds like it's in the rear end. Is this normal for a TRD? I've also noticed if I place my hand on the gear shift, that it moves forward or backward a little when I slow down or just before the vehicle comes to a complete stop. Everything else is smooth. I've still got a few weeks of warranty, but if it's normal for this model, then there's no since in wasting the time.
  • I have heard of tank heaters but i'm not too familiar with them. Do they splice into the upper radiator hose? What does a good tank heater cost? Where do i find them?
  • bogie3bogie3 Posts: 5
    I like you recently purchased a low mileage 03 model. Mine is 4 wheel drive. My truck has the same clunk. I read through all the posts I could find and have been to the dealer and have never found a solution. I installed traction bars thinking it was the axle wraping and releasing causing the sensation. That stopped the noise for a couple months but it returned which indicates that I at least disturbed the cause. I did take the rear drive shaft down and filled the coupling with grease. That may be the reason for the temporary fix. I'm wondering if that coupling has too much suction and possibly drilling a hole in the middle would allow the drive shaft to slide freely and not drop all of a sudden. Probably all of the owners who have had this problem and maybe solved it no longer read this forum.
  • Wyck: Mine was fixed by road force balance (Hunter 9700 ) You can go the Hunter web site and get a dealer list for your area. I had it done by a local Tire shop but got the dealer to pay for it. That took it from a solid problem to a intermittent problem. The final fix was a new skid plate. TSB AX004-5. If you have 2 wheel drive I would guess that you do not have a skid plate. Don't give up they can be fixed. It took me 6 months and 10000 miles to get this one fixed. After the problem went to intermittent the dealer went to the denial phase. I would say this whole thing was about equal to a root canal. GOOD LUCK
  • morgan5morgan5 Posts: 13
    Thanks for the response bogie3. Your description is better than mine, and it sounds exactly like my problem. Since I have not heard from any others with the same problem, I guess I'll try the dealer. Wish me luck.
  • Yes, they get put in the radiator hose. You plug them into any electrical outlet. You should be able to get one at about any auto parts store. They are pretty inexpensive, as I recall. I haven't used one since I got a garage. When I lived in Fargo, my apartment had a plug in by every parking spot. Got kinda cold there.
  • '05 V6 auto. started running rough about 4 weeks ago. Not much, but enough so that it creates a vibration at idle AND on the highway. Because it's running a bit
    rought it's causing the engine to shift at the wrong times because some sensor somewhere isn't sure what it should be doing (due to the rough engine.) NO check engine light...ran some injector cleaner and dry gas thru with no change.
    The dealer checked it out, everything was 'ok'. They said without a check engine light to give them a code they couldn't really do much. More engine noise than usual too and smelling 'bad eggs' from the exhaust. Not much change in gas mpg tho. Off to a different dealer Saturday for a 2nd opinion.
    9,800 miles. LOVE the truck but this is becoming annoying for sure. Any suggestions?
  • I have a 97 4x with a 6 cyl and auto. Mine does the same thing. It's very intermittent, but might be a little worse if it's cold...I could be imagining that though. It also does the same thing every once in a while not when I stop, but when I take my foot off the brake. I have a friend who used to work as a mechanic at a Toyota dealership. Now he works at an independent shop. I left the truck with him for a week while I was on vacation, and he replicated the "clunk" more than once, but couldn't find anything. He had one of his buddies at the dealership try to find a TSB on the problem, but he couldn't find anything. I bought the truck last year, and it only has 65,000 miles on it. The guy I bought it from said it has always done it.
  • bogie3bogie3 Posts: 5
    It's like you carry the loaded basket of laundry to the washer, you stop and drop everything to the floor. I've been to the dealer twice to get a different service advisor and both knew all about the problem and both said there has never been a solution. Mine is a 2003 model auto 4x4. From looking back through this forum it doesn't seem to matter what model and the problem existed all the way to the 2005s. I guess if it doesn't create a computer code, it can't be solved.
  • wyckwyck Posts: 2
    eddablow: Thanks for the reply. Mine is 2 wheel drive and does have a skid plate. How did that cause the problem and then fix the problem by changing it? I heard some people say it acts as a wing providing lift but that does not make sense as it is not consistent. Thanks again.
  • Addablow / Wick -

    I have a 2002 Tacome 4x, 24000 miles, just started vibrating badly last week intermittrently when doing 65 - 80 or so. When you slow down by braking, you feel the shimmy through the brake pedal. If you then accelerate again, life is good. is that what you've experienced? How does the skid plate get involved -- is it rubbing or flexing against the halfshafts or something?

    Just went through the ball joint recall and had hoped that some magic would happen to fix the problem -- no dice. Started vibrating on the way home form the dealer.
  • ken594ken594 Posts: 1
    My 01 Toyo Taco V-6 4 dr (70K miles) won't shift into third gear until I drive about a mile each morning and warm the eng/tran up a bit. Anyone have any ideas?

    Also is there an accessible trans oil line on the radiator that I could drain the trans oil. Just want to change the ATF not the filter...
  • lavoielavoie Posts: 11
    For the "bad eggs" smelling, check this:

    TSB EG034-05
  • lavoielavoie Posts: 11
    you could give a look to this:

    TSB AX004-05
  • to sam452, i have a 02 civic that is requiring new struts now at 97000 mi, and according to the owners manual i will need timing belt at about 104,000 mi , struts are about $500 including required alinement and the timing belt with required new water pump about $400 . i have looked at the 05 tacomas( i want one so bad i can taste it) and it says nothing about timing belt replacement on the internets(EDMUNDS LIST OF REQUIRED MAINTENANCE) according to toyota. the hondas as i understand it all have the freeze up engine issue you are liable for it if the timing belt breaks BIG NEGATIVE TO AN OTHERWISE GOOD LINE OF VEHICLES. I understand toyota have timing chains without the freeze up engine issue there is a name for the difference in the engines from honda and toyota,i have seen it stated in previous posts on the toyoyta tacoma site. my next vehicle will be a toyota if for no other reason than the engine issue. my question to Edmunds would be are these issues taken into consideration when the true cost to own are added up. any input would be appreciated : :
  • toyo05toyo05 Posts: 1
    Have your dealer call a norhtern dealer or even better a canadian dealer, toyota makes a block heater . have one in my 05. they should be able to give you the part number. by the way it is identical to the one in the 03, 04 05 4runner with the 4.0 engine
  • Have a 2005 Tacoma 4wd/V6...does anyone know where the fuel filter is located?
    Think I may have had some dirty gas and wanted to replace it.
    Someone told me it's in the fuel tank but I can't Toyota would be that foolish!
  • I have a 05 tacoma dc ,has anyone had problems with lifter type noise in the 4.0? dealer say it is noise from exhaust ports into manifolds,sounds like a truck w/200k,mine has 3000 miles on it,any info would be great.

    Thanks Scott
  • I have a 05 tacoma dc ,has anyone had problems with lifter type noise in the 4.0? dealer say it is noise from exhaust ports into manifolds,sounds like a truck w/200k,mine has 3000 miles on it,any info would be great.

    Thanks Scott
  • Mine sounds the same...
  • eaglegeagleg Posts: 87
    Mine sounds the same.As long as it's under warranty,I'm not going to worry about it.I think if it was a problem,it wouldn't go as good as it does.
  • I have a 2002 Tacoma 4x, 24000 miles, just started vibrating badly last week intermittently when doing 65 - 80 or so. When you slow down by braking, you feel the shimmy through the brake pedal. If you then accelerate again, life is good. Only does this occasionally (1 - 2 times per 60 miles trip), no obvious grease, etc coming off the front wheels (it feels like it's coming from the front), but when it happens, it can scare the whee out of you!

    Had the dealer check it as I just went through the ball joint recall and had hoped that some magic would happen to fix the problem -- no dice. Started vibrating on the way home form the dealer. Someone on the board has suggested wheel bearings (why would it be intermittent then?) Any other suggestions? Thanks for the help!
  • Sorry I did not explain that very well. I had two vibration problems. When it was first worked on it was a solid problem and that was fixed by the road force balance. The problem then became intermittent. After fighting it for a few months I discovered that it was wind sensitive. In my case you had to have a head wind or one from the right.. At he present time I have my skid plate off and have driven about 500 miles with zero problems. I have a new plate at the dealers that has reinforcement bars in it.
  • hey y'all... hoping for some help... i have a 2wd 95 manual... and some problems...

    i think that the first one it pretty minor... but i'm planning on doing some regular maintenance on the truck this saturday and figure that this is a good time to try to fix some things... so i have a squeaky fan... and by that i mean that when i turn on the fan... there is a squeaking that seems to be coming from the vents (so probably from under the hood)... what should i do about it?

    the second is a continuation of a previous problem that i had posted... i get an occasional grinding when i shift into any of the odd (1,3,5) gears... it is as if i have let the clutch out before the gears were engaged and i were trying to push them together at disfunctional speeds... and here's the new part... i realized the other night that the lock that holds the stick in place... i.e. in the gears that i choose... is non-existent... i can put the truck into first... take my foot off the clutch... and then just as easily;y pull the stick out of first... what does this mean?.. is it connected to my grinding shifts?.. and what should i do?..

    and finally... my clutch pedal occasionally sticks about two centimeters before it's usual resting height... it is not sticking in an engaged position yet... what should i do?..

    thanks...
  • Update: Have had it back to the dealer twice -- he now says that the rear drums are warped, due to one side of the emergency brake sticking. Says that the dragging emergency brake heats up the rear brakes, does the shimmy, and when you slow (or use the brake) they release, causing the "intermittent" shake. Why they didn't catch that when investigating the front brakes (just replaced last week with the ball joint recall) is beyond me. Should be able to pick it up tomorrow afternoon. Not having a good feeling about this...
  • msibillemsibille Posts: 275
    Fan- if you're talking about the air circulation fan, it may be accessible under the hood near the firewall, or in the cabin behind the glovebox (where it is in the '05). i don't know which on the '95. Squeak is probably bad bearings (bushings) of the motor shaft. You might get some relief with lubricant, but it's not a given.

    Being able to push the stick out of gear is not unusual. You just don't want it popping out on its own. Have you tried the earlier diagnostic suggestions?

    Clutch pedal- check for dirt and lack of lube in the linkage. Check for stretched return spring. You might clean the linkage with electronics (spray) cleaner, then try a lube.
  • My '91 2 WD Toyota Pickup (automatic) recently (develped about 10 days ago) had a problem: during cold start, it won't go up 2nd gear. It states on 1st gear for, maybe more than 10- 5 minutes, then it can shift up to 2nd gear. Once it is in 2nd gear, it has no problem to go all the way to overdrive. The transmission fluid level is OK, and the fluid has been changed late 2005. It has about 130K miles on it. I suspect there may be some sensor problem, as it is able to shift up once the time (or I believe the temperature of the fluid is at opearting level, or maybe pressure??). But I'm not sure. Would appreciate any help or advice.
  • stuntstunt Posts: 3
    I'm puzzled by the fact that the service technician said to buy sand bags and put them in the bed of the truck. Does your truck have a lot of bed bounce? In 1998, after my beloved 1991 Toyota truck was totalled in an accident on my way into work, I decided to visit some dealerships searching for a new truck. I test drove every compact truck on the market. My test drive included driving down the same bumpy roads and the same windy highways. The focus of my test drive was on 4 trucks: the Toyota Tacoma (with the TRD off-road package, which was first installed in the 1998 models), the Dodge Dakota (the first year they looked like the Dodge Rams), the GMC Sierra, and the Ford Ranger also with the off-road package. Test drive after test drive I kept coming back to the Toyota. It performed the best by far! The Ford Ranger was way too stiff. I almost lost control of the Dodge Dakota on a bumpy road due to extreme side to side bed bounce, and the GMC felt too small. In 1998, the Toyota Racing Development (TRD) off-road package on the Tacoma differed from the standard Tacoma without the off-road package in 4 main ways. The off-road package consisted of the larger 16-inch wheel rims and the 30-inch tires, heavy-duty suspension springs, heavy-duty sway bars, and heavy-duty Bilstein shock absorbers. Bilstein shocks are a brand name shock absorber that is designed to eliminate bed bounce. I had them on my 1991 Toyota truck before it was totaled. They truly did eliminate bed bounce. It made for a more comfortable ride. But, where I really noticed the Bilsteins is whenever I stopped, especially when I had to break hard. The rear wheels stayed on the ground. They didn't bounce a lot. Therefore, stopping was easier. Right after my test drives, I read an article in 4 X 4 magazine where they compared the Ford Ranger to the Toyota Tacoma in off-road tests. The Ranger only performed well when the bed of the truck was fully loaded. The Tacoma performed well whether the bed was unloaded, half loaded, or fully loaded. Bed load didn't matter. I think it was due to the Bilstein shocks. By the way, Ford now insatalls Bilstein shocks on their off-road packages. This is why I'm puzzled by the service technician's comments. Does Toyota no longer use the Bilstein shocks in their off-road package? It's really easy to tell. Look at your shock absorbers. Bilstein shocks are a distinctive yellow and powder blue color. If your Tacoma doesn't have Bilsteins, trying buying a set of four. They usually run about $60 for the front pair and $60 each for the rear. You can find them online at Performance Products (www.performanceproducts.com). Don't bother with the sand bags unless you need them for driving in the snow and you want a little extra weight in your bed. See if this helps. Good luck.
  • msibillemsibille Posts: 275
    The stiffer the system (tires, springs and frame) and the higher the unsprung mass (wheel/tire/axle weight) the rougher the ride will be for a given "sprung mass" (the portion above the springs). The shocks are hydraulic dampers which minimize subsequent cycles of bounce for a given bump, but the more damping in the shock, the rougher the bump will feel for a given weight above the springs. Even if the truck has an unusually good ride when empty, it will ride "smoother" if you add weight to the bed. The stiffness of the springs and the damping of the shocks have to be sufficient for the full load rating, and this makes them stiffer than they would have to be for the empty bed. Adding weight will bring it closer to the optimum. -That's why the tech suggested it. However, that may just mask the fact that something isn't as good as it should be. In other words, it'll improve, but should it still be better than it is when empty (as in comparison to Stunt's description). Carrying around extra weight that isn't needed will give you a nice ride and even better handling, but at the cost of stop and go fuel mileage. (You burn extra fuel to accelerate the extra weight to speed, and you dump the energy into heat at the brakes when you slow down or stop. )
  • derf5derf5 Posts: 1
    my 96 tacoma 2wd 2.7l 152k miles runs great but have starting problems when very hot outside and i use airconditioner wait 15-20min or open hood and starts ok and runs ok- fuel injected --replaced fuel filter- plugs-wires suspect iat sensor but seems within specs mass air flow sen clean---runs perfect when not hot anyone with this problem or suggestions!!!! derf5
  • So I just had my 60K Mi maintanence done at a local shop I've been taking my 2001 Toyota Taco (4X4, Ext cab, V6, Manual).

    After the maintanence, all was well except for a distinctive odor that is either front diff fluid or manual transmission fluid. I had my Taco up on the rack with the guy and everything up there is dry as a bone with no visible leaks. I thought it was maybe that he just spilled some fluid and that it was just burning off but it has been 5 weeks and I suspect there is a problem.

    The odor started when I rolled out of the driveway after the maintanence. It occurs only when you take off in first gear; it does not occur if you just rev the engine in neutral or at a stop. The odor also occurs if you mash the gas pedal in just about any gear. You can only smell it if you drive with one or both windows down.

    My gut feeling is that the shop I took it to disconnected a breather hose or element somewhere but hell if I can see or find it.

    Any help?

    John
  • ljs704ljs704 Posts: 1
    I have a 5 speed with approximately 70,000 miles. I recently started having problems with my truck which initially felt like a flat tire. I have been driving 10 mph, 30 mph, and the last episode was at 60 mph. I start to lose speed without braking while driving so I pull off the side of the road and it feels like a tire is going flat. I get out, walk around the truck, and no tire is flat but I smell something of a burning smell coming from under the hood. The last episode I got back into the truck and tried to take off but I could not go forward or in reverse for a few minutes. It felt like I had the emergency brake on, but I did not. I sat for a few minutes wondering who to call if I am stranded and then I try to drive forward again. It takes off fine, and I made it home. I switched vehicles with my dad last week and he has had the same thing happen twice. He said tonight it feels like the brakes are kicking in while driving and it doesn't make any sense to him. Anyone have an idea on what this could be? It happens to randomly it's hard to pin-point the issue.
  • stuntstunt Posts: 3
    I recently purchased a used 2001 Toyota Tacoma 4WD V-6 manual transmission with 50,000 miles on it. I purchased the vehicle from my brother, so I know the history of it. Not long after I owned it, the truck would jerk as if the engine wanted to stall but doesn't. Some times the jerking is subtle. Some times the jerking is very strong. This typically occurs after a minimum 20 mile drive on the highway followed by a drive on the side roads at approximately 45 to 50 mph. The jerking can become so bad, the truck is almost impossible to drive. Unfortunately, this problem is intermittent and never seems to really occur while it is at the dealership being inspected. I can drive for a few days without it happening. Then one day, there it goes again. I'm not certain, but it does seem to happen the day after I fill up the fuel tank. To date, this truck has been seen by three dealerships and experts at one of Toyota's tech centers. Because the check engine light isn't on and there are no codes, they can't seem to figure out the problem. They have inspected the spark plugs and wires, the fuel injectors, the fuel itself (they drained the fuel tank), all of the hoses, flushed the fuel system, etc. While at one dealership, the truck jerked slightly on them when driving at 45 mph. They replaced the mass air-flow sensor. It seemed to work at first. Then it started jerking again. They called in the experts from the tech center. They were at a loss. They decided that the ECU was out of calibration and that the fuel air mixture was not correct between 35 and 55 mph. They recalibrated the ECU. Note they put the old mass air-flow sensor back on the truck. The truck functioned correctly for one day. The next day, after filling up my fuel tank, I experienced the worst and most frequent jerking ever. I took it to the dealership again. It has been running fine for them for 3 days. Friends have suggested to me that it could be the ignition coil, the EGR valve, the air fuel ratio sensor in the intake valve, the vacuum, etc. Unfortunately, if the dealership can't really experience the symptoms, they aren't willing to go on a wild goose chase to figure it out. I can't say I blame them. Has anyone else ever experienced this problem or have any suggestions?
  • I am having the same problem with my 2002 Tacoma.
    I put a new master cylinder on it. it was OK for 2 months. now the front brakes are heating up once more. After it sit 5 minutes it is ok. If you find a fix please let me know. I am thinking maybe the brake boster is sticking??
  • Your front calipers and/or pistons in the calipers might be hanging up. After applying the brakes, the caliper(s) doesn't allow the pads to fully disengage from the rotor. This causes heat build up that causes the brakes to "lock up". The next time it happens, check the front wheels for excessive heat or a smell coming from the hot brake pads.

    The fix may be as simple as cleaning up the caliper mounting bolts and slides or or rebuild or replacement of the caliper(s). Good luck.
  • msibillemsibille Posts: 275
    In addition to ftoften's advice, sometimes the lining of the hose will break and collapse, forming a crude check valve that prevents the fluid from draining back completely. This keeps the calipers partially energized. It will rapidly bake (ruin) your linings, and after sufficient time, damage the caliper. ($$$) More often than not though, if it's the hose to the caliper, it will occur on only one, resulting in the vehicle pulling to that side, particularly when you let off the accelerator. If both calipers are staying energized, then I would go w/ the earlier suggestions first.

    If the calipers are sticking, you need to check them carefully for signs of overheating (heat tint). If overheated, replace -don't rebuild. Also, the calipers should be replaced in pairs.

    My '84 FORD trash Ranger had this (among many things) happen. One caliper stuck, resulting in a hard pull to that side. By the time I could get somewhere to get it on the rack, the caliper was cooked. New hoses, calipers, and linings later, and I was on the road to experience a number of other defects in the vehicle...
    :mad:
  • I have the same problem on a 2002. It's axlewrap. Been driving me crazy also. The fix is traction bars. There are some on the market. There are non specific I can find for the Prerunner. Some made for off road, pretty big and expensive.
    To verify the problem fix, I bolted an angle iron to the axle u-bolts and secured it to the forward spring hangers. Stopped it dead. Smoothed out the up shift and stopped the shifter from jumping. This limits the axle movement so I'm going to use stabalizer bars out of a late 90s camaro and attach them from the axle u-bolts to a space 3' in front of the forward spring hangers. These have rubber bushings in both ends to help get away from having metal to metal.
    Toyota hasn't got a clue. I brought mine in and they gave me a new tranny????
  • The rear drums on my 2002 had to be replaced right away. I think it was a bad lot.
    Heading for the ball joint gig next week.
  • maxx7maxx7 Posts: 3
    Actually I read the post by eddablow that said to go to hunter wheel balance web site.
    #1608 of 1642 Re: Vibration problem 2005 Tacoma 4x4 [wyck] by eddablow

    I found a Toyota dealer near me that had the 9700 road force balancer. The dealer said, “the factory balances the tires, and usually they are accurate”. But we will rebalance them anyway. They did and it seems smoother. We took it on a 200 mile round day trip. It was mostly good.
  • I have a 1999 taco with the v6, the TRD pakage, and it is 4 wheel drive. My question is the ABS light comes on after driving about 20 miles. if the ignition is turned off and then re-started the light goes out. The passanger front brake caliper seems to be getting warm when compared to the other front caliper. Could this be just a sensor problem or is it the brake caliper.
  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    Check your brake fluid. On my impala and silverado when the light comes on it is an indication of brake fluid level being low.
  • Ive got a 98 toy tacoma prerunr it started jerkin on me driving between 40-55 mph. Not a real bad jerk . then I tried to start my truck one morning but wouldn't start. It would turn over but not completely. the mechanic can find whats wrong thought was the ignition module but its stil wont run any 1 have any suggestions.
  • I ve got a 98 toyota prerunner It recently started jerkin between 40-55mph not to bad just started doing it for couple wks before it just wouldn't start one morning It would turn over just not completely. the mechanic thought it was the ignition module but it still won't start any 1 have any suggestions on what it might be. Hes checked the coils and replaced spark plugs im just over 100 thousand miles
  • I've got an 01 Tacoma 4-by SR5 with a 5-cyl, manual. Recently, a rattle / chatter / squeal has developed when I let off the gas and the truck decelerates. It stops when I engage the clutch or take the truck out of gear. It's been happening at all speeds (low 20s-highway speeds). Hard to tell where the sound comes from, but either the engine or below the truck. I've seen discussion of "idler pulley on the fan belt". Anyone else had / solved this problem. would love to have an idea to go to the mechanic with...

    Thanks
  • stuntstunt Posts: 3
    I'm having the same problem with my 2001 Tacoma (see message no. 1636). Only, my truck hasn't completely died yet. It's been to three dealerships and has been seen by engineers at one of the Toyota Tech Centers. No one seems to know what's wrong. The Toyota engineers did notice that the ECU was out of calibration. They recalibrated it, but it still jerks. The fact that your truck completely shut off makes me think that this could be an ECU problem. That's why it never shows a code on their diagnostics. I don't know. What do others think? Please keep me informed. Whatever turns out to be the problem with your vehicle is likely the problem with mine.
  • "Check your brake fluid. On my impala and silverado when the light comes on it is an indication of brake fluid level being low."

    Which usually means the pads are shot.

    DO NOT simply add fluid until you've eliminated the obvious causes of worn pads or serious fluid leaks.
  • Hello,
    My 95 Tacoma is haunted! From time to time, particularly on cold start, the truck won't turn over. When I turn the key, I have power to all points (radio, dash lights, etc..) but starter does not engage. However, this happens only from time to time it may start 10 times in a row and then not start for a few turns....leave it a while and it will start again. There are no OBD code indicators on the dash. Battery connection is a little loose but this doesn't strike me as the problem because I always have power in the cab when it happens. Could it be the starter, batt/starter connection, what the HELL!! Thank-you for replies!
  • msibillemsibille Posts: 275
    First check ground connections to battery, frame, starter, engine, etc. (always check grounds first.)

    Then-
    Check voltage to coil of starter solenoid.
    IF voltage is correct, then it could be a bad solenoid that is sticking. Not uncommon. Had it on my Suzuki Sidekick and on my Murray Riding mower.
  • Does anyone know why Toyota has lowered the HP & torque for their 4.0 V6 for 2006? It was 245 now it is 236. :( Seems like a dumb move.
This discussion has been closed.