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Toyota Tacoma: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • 53jinx53jinx Posts: 6
    I have a 05 Tacoma that I love. One of my favorite features are the D-Rings that are installed in the back of the bed. I have been looking for information about installing two more tie downs in the front of the bed but haven't had much luck finding any info.

    I talked to the dealer and they recommended putting them on the side wall near the front. The only problem is they need to be reinforced due to the fact they are not attached to the frame or anything else.

    I talked with a 4x4 outfitter and they recommended removing the washer under the bolts that attach the bed to the frame and adding a steel tab that I could attach the hooks to.

    I just wanted to see if any one has had any experience with this sort of project.
  • I am a little confused to the timing belt/chain issue: I have a 2000 Taco Prerunner 4cyl 2.7L and I cannot find anywhere for the life of me when to change the belt/chain. The owners manual says to change tacos at 90K (Except Prerunner) but there is no separate listing for the Prerunner anywhere??? Does anyone know the answer to this?
  • msibillemsibille Posts: 275
    If you buy the front D Ring kit (2 D Rings w mtg hardware) the instructions describe exactly how to mount and where. The kit comes with backing plates. It is VERY easy to install, although helpful if you have a helper to hold the backing plate/nut in place while you turn the screw from inside the bed. (Instead of the duct tape called for in the instructions.) However, i had NO trouble installing.

    If you order online from one of the Toy online parts distributors, the price is reasonable and the instructions come with the parts, though you can dnload a pdf of the instructions beforehand from a lot of the online dealers.
  • ayranayran Posts: 1
    I just bought this truck a week ago and love it. It was exactly what I was looking for and I got a good deal on it. When I was shopping for a new truck it seemed that tacoma's where one of the best more $$ but all around good trucks but after reading some of the things on here I'm begging to wonder if I made the right decision. Someone please tell me something positive about these trucks.

    The only problem I'm having is that when I come to a stop and it begins to idle a rattling noise starts up. This seems to happen more when the engine is still cold but stops if I put it into park. Sometimes it continues after the engine has heated up but only when idling in any gear other than park. Does anyone have an idea as to what the problem may be? Please let me know

    Whoever designed the location for the clock I hope got fired from the company.
  • ustazzafustazzaf Posts: 311
    It's been a while, but I just knew the clock issue would resurface if someone dug far enough back. There are guages in plain sight, but people still drive with the temp needle buried until the engine seizes, but we are worried about the clock that you have to actually have to make an effort to see. Personnaly, I never found the clock worth complaining about, but if that is the worst problem real owners can find, Tacomas are good.
  • I have an 06 Double Cab Sport purchased in Nov. / 05. Haven't noticed this vibration on deceleration but have a shutter / vibration on light to moderate acceleration on the 1-2 shift at 15 to 20 K (10 to 20 MPH ). More noticeable starting off at the base of a hill. The vehicle has 6,000 K now. This problem did not show itself until after the first 1,500 K. Toyota people seem to have never heard of this before and the test drive they took did not convince them there was a problem. Three months back I test drove a few of these trucks (05 & 06)and found more than a few of them had a mild to severe driveline shutter at moderate to heavey throttle. This vibration seemed to originate further back on the driveline well back of the driver. The sales staff even noticed but passed it off. There is a rubber mounted carrier bearing that might have been moving off centre under heavey torque load. This vibration would diminish as the speed of the vehicle increased. I liked everything else about this vehicle. Decided back then to wait a few months and test some more before buying. The one I bought did not have any drive line vibration under moderate to heavey throttle. There are slip joints on both drivelines. If these joints do not have the proper type or amount of grease they will bind and hang up. This can cause a thump or vibration on startup. I think Toyota knows more than its saying. Seemed to get an inferrence that a possible revision (recall) from Toyota was coming. My slight shutter is quite noticable in everday slow rushour traffic. I will give the driveline a little more time to wear in before aggressively pursuing a solution from Toyota.
  • I have an 06 Double Cab 4 by 4 Sport purchased in Nov. / 05. Haven't noticed this vibration on deceleration but have a shutter / vibration on light to moderate acceleration on the 1-2 shift at 15 to 20 K (10 to 20 MPH ). More noticeable starting off at the base of a hill. The vehicle has 6,000 K now. This problem did not show itself until after the first 1,500 K. Toyota people seem to have never heard of this before and the test drive they took did not convince them there was a problem. Three months back I test drove a few of these trucks (05 & 06)and found more than a few of them had a mild to severe driveline shutter at moderate to heavey throttle. This vibration seemed to originate further back on the driveline well back of the driver. The sales staff even noticed but passed it off. There is a rubber mounted carrier bearing that might have been moving off centre under heavey torque load. This vibration would diminish as the speed of the vehicle increased. I liked everything else about this vehicle. Decided back then to wait a few months and test some more before buying. The one I bought did not have any drive line vibration under moderate to heavey throttle. There are slip joints on both drivelines. If these joints do not have the proper type or amount of grease they will bind and hang up. This can cause a thump or vibration on startup. I think Toyota knows more than its saying. Seemed to get an inferrence that a possible revision (recall) from Toyota was coming. My slight shutter is quite noticable in everday slow rushour traffic. I will give the driveline a little more time to wear in before aggressively pursuing a solution from Toyota.
  • woody72woody72 Posts: 73
    I have a '00 with the 2.7L with about 87K miles and have kept up with all filter, oil and plug changes but neglected to notice the 60K mile 'inspect valve clearance' in the maintenence schedule. It has a vibration at idle and check engine light is now on, otherwise runs fine. The mechanic says one of my #3 intake valves is bad hence low compression effecting the o2 sensor setting off the check light. He recommends a valve job at between $2300-2800! Does anyone routinely adjust these valves at 60K mile intervals? If my clearance is tight, keeping a valve from completely seating will a valve adjustment help or is it too late, the heat damage has been done? Would appreciate any related comments, thanks

    Also to Chagasi re timing belt/chain on 2.7L The 2.7L has a chain not a belt and does not have a recommended replacement mileage. You replace it when it gets very noisy along with the tensioner whereas the belt in the V6 is recommended to replace regardless of condition at 90K
  • I have an 05 Tacoma. This is the first time I'm changing the oil. When changing the oil filter, how do you keep the oil from running out of the filter after loosening it to take it off? :confuse: ">
  • msibillemsibille Posts: 275
    Valve clearance usually gets larger (more loose) w/ time, but I suppose it's possible. I would say it's worth a shot, but I'm guessing (from previous experience w/ other vehicles) that the cost of labor for valve adjustment won't be small. If you get a valve job, you'll get that as part of the package. You could shop around for better pricing, or, if you have high confidence in your mechanic's ethics, ask him to start w/ the assumption that he's doing a valve adjustment, going first to #3 to see if those clearances are tight. If so, maybe that's all you need (he could probably tell from inspection). If not, the disassembly is already started for the valve job. But I wouldn't count on that being all you need.
  • msibillemsibille Posts: 275
    It's a beautiful thing.

    If you look/feel under the "catch basin/cup" that the filter is above, you'll find a nib that a hose will fit on. The nib should have a rubber cap on it right now. It's intended that you connect a hose there and drop it into the waste oil container before loosening the filter.

    Alternatively, what I do- A small plastic bottle from a 16 oz bottled water works really well here. W/ the cap removed from the bottle and the rubber cap off the nib of the catch basin, fit the bottle below to catch runoff from the nib. You'll find that the soft, flexible plastic bottle wedges in nicely between the radiator hose and the shroud, holding it in place. Loosen the filter and allow the oil to run out. Remove the filter, wipe the catch basin w/ a paper towel or rag, pushing the remainder thru the drain. Do this early in the oil change so that the cup and nib can drain fully. Remove the water bottle, wipe the nib of the catch basin, recap the water bottle and reinstall the rubber cap on the catch basin. Dispose of the waste oil w/ the rest of the drainage.

    I find this so easy, I can't bear to let anyone else change the oil. (My wife's Odyssey gets the trip to the shop sometimes, but not my Taco.)
  • "Alternatively, what I do- A small plastic bottle from a 16 oz bottled water works really well here. W/ the cap removed from the bottle and the rubber cap off the nib of the catch basin, fit the bottle below to catch runoff from the nib."

    A 20 oz. plastic Coke (Diet works too... :D) also fits right in the space.

    Just don't ask me what might happen if you're not careful removing the bottle and you drop it down on the top of the skid plate...
  • msibillemsibille Posts: 275
    "Just don't ask me what might happen if you're not careful removing the bottle and you drop it down on the top of the skid plate... "

    whoops!
  • I had the exact same problem on my 95 Taco. I thought it was the starter also. I called the dealer to price a new starter ($600.00) and was asked why I thought it was the starter. I told him what it was doing and he told me that it was the starter contacts and that they are replaceable on that started ($14.00) plus labor. About $80.00 for the fix.
  • I had the same problem on my 95 Taco same engine. The solution was replacing the starter contacts. What is happening when it clicks and doesn't start is the armature is on a bad spot of the contacts. Every time you try to start the engine the armature moves slightly. When it finally hits a good spot on the contacts your on your way.

    Cost is about ($80.00) at the dealer
  • I have a 2001 Prerunner V6 and lately I have been driving with my windows down and when im by the curb of a street I notice a squeal. I know for sure it's my truck but i don't know what it could be coming from. I think its from the wheels/breaks. Does anyone have an idea of what that might be?
  • It could be worn brakes. There is usually a "squealer" put on to make a noise when your brakes have worn to a certain level. Have you had the brake pads checked lately?
  • woody72woody72 Posts: 73
    I took it to another mechanic who confirmed that one of the #3 exhaust valves had negative clearance (too tight) and other valves were out of adjustment. It seems most mechanics don't like to do these adjustments because you need the special tools and an expensive assortment of shims. Most recommend having the dealer do it (at $330). My mechanic is willing to do it, but will get needed shims from the dealer and if exact size is not available will have it shipped overnight. He is fairly optomistic the adjustment will solve the problem and no major damage has been done. I hope he is right. I will have him do a compression check after all is readjusted. I highly recommend those with 70-90K miles get these valves checked. There is very little warning. Mine was a slight but detectable vibration at idle and at times an apparent miss when in the starter mode, both very easy to ignore, DON'T, you will regret it.
  • pb2themaxpb2themax Posts: 471
    Last time I changed the oil I let the engine sit and cool down. The oil filter didn't drain out ANY oil. It was so easy and clean. Didn't even need that 'catch basin'. Not sure if it matters, but the filter was an Amsoil. I'm now using a Mobil 1 M-102 filter. It seems to reduce the engine "tick" a lot. Better oil flow I guess.
  • my truck check engine light comes on.my brother borrowed an obd code reader and told me it that something was wrong with the coolant system,does anybody know what it may be.
    My truck does seem to have any problems that are noticeable.
  • I have a 96 4wd v6 with standard transmission... a grinding/whiring sound occurs when idling at dead stop and quits when clutch is pressed in.. it takes the clutch a second to engage when in 1st gear starting off.. when in gear in makes a high pitched noise through all gears when accelerating or cruising..it sounds almost like a supercharger.. i know its coming from the transmission.. an i just had a new clutch an kit put in.. i believe it may be the throw-out bearing.. any ideas
  • Have your mechanic lube the driveshaft and rest of chassis. Mechanics usually skip this step during oil changes because they assume your truck doesn't need it. But older Tacomas have to get lubed regularly. You can't do this yourself unless you have a lift and a grease gun.
  • ustazzafustazzaf Posts: 311
    I won't say you totally wasted your time doing a oil change cold because the oil breaks down after awhile, but I think getting the extra stuff floating around in the oil out is almost as important, and if the engine is cool, the impurities have had a chance to settle to the bottom where they will stay for the next oil. As for the remote oil filter, it is very handy, but I don't think it is the best for the oil system. If the filter is down at the bottom of the engine, removing the filter will allow the supply and return lines to drain out, taking junk in the lines out too. Having the filter on top allows both lines to drain back down into the engine, and if nothing came out when you removed it, the junk from in the filter went down with it. I know the filter set up is very handy, but as easy as it is, the oil place still makes a mess of my engine compartment. Guess when you pay someone $5.50 an hour, you get what you pay for.
  • pb2themaxpb2themax Posts: 471
    I don't let it get cold. I just let it cool down to a warm temp. The "junk" gets trapped in the filter material. The one-way valve on these filters is what makes them not leak very much. They are made to be upside-down.
  • msibillemsibille Posts: 275
    For $5.50/hr, there's often a lot of other issues that you can't see. I'd say that if the practices of the "oil place" are such that they make a mess of the engine compartment -even if you bring it up to the supervisor, then you need a new "oil place". As I said, I can't bring myself to let someone else change my Taco' oil just yet- since it's so easy and clean. But I do send my wife to shop that I have high confidence in. I'd mention the chain, but I also know that the quality of work varies from region to region in chains like this, so that's not helpful. Best thing is to go and watch thru the window, look around the shop, see how the supervisors are dressed and look after things. If they're not neat with their paperwork and office, they're probably not neat w/ your vehicle.
  • 2k1trd2k1trd Posts: 301
    Sounds like your transmission has a bad bearing(input shaft)When you depress the clutch,the shaft stops spinning and the noise will stop.Just the opposite,if the noise was there when you were on the clutch,it would most likely be the throw out bearing as it is spinning then.You could try draining the fluid to confirm as there is probably metal in it.the noise you describe while driving is pretty much a dead give away that the trans is bad...
  • Hi Guys, I have a problem with my 02, XC, 42k, pre-runner. On sunday, with ~40F ambient, my truck would not start at all, it would crank well but did not start. I tried everything mentioned in the manual (alleviate flooding etc), but nothing worked. No use using a jump because the battery looked healthy. Eventually I had it towed to a dealer on Monday at 8AM, the guys there spent the whole day trying to diagnose the problem, at 5PM, they called me - it's "partially" the onboard computer and "partially" the fuel pump to blame. Since the onboard computer is still under warranty ( I think 60k) and I have a 6yr/100k extended warranty passed on from the owner, I didnt care to ask what "partially" means...but this was surprising to me because its too early for the pump and computer to die. And I am not questioning the dealers diagnosis because they had quite a number of people look at it. Has anyone experienced a similar problem this early or is that an isolated case. I am troubled with this experience, Toyota is much much better, I am sure.
  • Did you ever get your 2003 Tacoma DC water leak repaired? If so what did they find. I have a 2005 Tacoma DC with only 6k miles. I have a serious water leak with water on the floor in front of ALL four seats. The Toyota dealership can't seem to figure out where the water is coming from. Any help would be appreciated.
  • Hello, I've got a '95 Toyota pickup DLX 4X4 with the 22RE engine that just failed the state emissions test because the NOx levels were high.

    My limited knowledge of engines leads me to suspect that the cause could be either a bad oxygen sensor, faulty EGR system, or a clogged catalytic converter. Has anyone ever had this problem? The only thing I've noticed that may be related is that when I restart the engine after it's already at operating temperature, the idle is low and rough. But after I drive for a few minutes, the standing idle seems fine. It always idles fine when cold.

    I also noticed that after the emissions test the computer screen read "vehicle underpowered." Not sure if that is related. Does anyone have any insight or a gut feeling as to why the NOx levels are high? Thank you in advance for any feedback.
  • msibillemsibille Posts: 275
    Nothing about the diagnosis that's not plausible.

    Four things are needed for the engine to run- fuel, air, spark and spinning the engine to start. You had the last one for certain. The others rely on the control module, injectors, fuel pump/filter, injectors, etc.
    The control module may last forever, or it can die at any time, however, most solid state electronics fail in the first 24hrs of operation, or following a number of "events" that cause surges in voltage (either in power, sensor inputs, or output lines) that eventually breakdown the internal resistance. Most of the latter failures cannot be traced to any known cause. (even a lightning strike very nearby can cause some weakening of the IC that will immediately, or eventually, result in failure).

    As for fuel pumps, they are electro and mechanical so they can fail at any time, though these days most will last more than 75k miles, often well past 100k. But statistically, some will fail earlier, even right off the lot.

    Quite possibly, the control module is failing one or more tests and the fuel pump output is less than spec, but not yet fully failed.
  • Agreed, the diagnosis may be correct..the dealer has ordered a control module which they will test with existing fuel pump; module is covered by toyota for 8yrs/80k miles; fuel pump installed is $7xx.oo but they are not sure thats end of the problem
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    You may have better luck reading through Toyota Pickup (pre-Tacoma) issues

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • 99taco99taco Posts: 1
    I am having the exact same problem on my 99 Prerunner and it seems to getting worse. I'm interested to see how the advice on the starter contacts worked out.

    I actually replaced the starter with an aftermarket one and it hasn't helped!
  • kdeakdea Posts: 3
    I have a 2005 dbl cad trd with the 4.0l and 5 speed auto. I am experiencing an engine vibration at between 1950rpm-2300rpm, it only happens under slight load and can be felt through the steering wheel and gas pedal. It has been to the dealer 5 times with no end in site, they have changed the cab mounts, adjusted motor mounts, I have even put winter tires and new rims. Nothing has gotten rid of it and it is quite annoying. Has anybody else had this problem? the truck doesn't even have 6000miles on it yet.
  • msibillemsibille Posts: 275
    If you're not noticing black smoke exiting exhaust (and I would guess that you're not), most likely the engine is running too lean. Could be O2 sensor or computer issue causing lean mix. I don't know if the '95 is fuel injected, but if so, could be one or more bad injectors allowing a lean cylinder to produce the high NOx. Clogged EGR valve or port can also result in higher burn temps, increasing NOx.
    '95 should have OBDI or OBDII diagnostics. Get someone to plug in a code reader to see what you find thre.
  • I have the same problem on my 2002. I've taken it in over 20 times and still no fix. I contacted Toyota customer service and they tell me to take it back to the dealer.

    I'm not going to say this truck is a lemon, but I have been disappointed by the rattle and Toyota's inability to fix it.
  • 2k1trd2k1trd Posts: 301
    Sad but true,it seems as though the earlier 4 clys's had some issues with the valves actually sinking in the seats resulting in tight lash eventually holding the valve open and burning the valve itself.I work for a indedpendent shop and one had come to me with the same issues (cel on,rough idle,etc)and found that the #1 cyl was low in compression.I talked to a buddy of mine who works at a Toyota dealer and he sad that he had one apart at that moment for the same problem.A valve job fixed the problem.
  • jn99jn99 Posts: 4
    This is a simple problem to repair I have did it well over 50 times let me know where your at and either I can do the work for a small fee or give you instuctions if you are far away
  • I have the same problem on my 02 Tacoma DBL cab 4x4 V-6.
    Sometimes, when coming to a stop it feels like the whole truck is buckling. Then it clunks. Mine won't shift out of 1st gear when its cold for a tenth of a mile; also.

    Someone else on this sight was talking about Axel wrap. Something about the leafsprings being too soft.

    Have you found anymore info.
    Wright me back pleas!
    Mark!
  • With a new toyota 80k/8yr warranty covered computer and $730 installed fuel pump, my 02 XC 2.7L starts in a jiff, but my mileage is now 13-15mpg. How long does it take a new computer to break in? My dealer goes thru the usual rant of "spark plugs, air filter blah blah...." this truck gave me ~22-25 a week before the computer flap. Pl help, I am having a bad experience with my Tacoma :(
  • woody72woody72 Posts: 73
    I'm hoping I caught mine before a valve job is needed. My mechanic ordered a mechanics assortment of shims. He was able to replace the shim (not quite to specs) on the tightest exhaust valve at least allowing it to close. Compression came back to norm and the rough idle went away. I left it with him to complete a valve adjustment when he gets the shims, don't want to put miles on it til properly adjusted. We agreed to set the lash on the fatter (wider) side of the specs, hopefully giving me more time between valve adjustments. For the slight decrease in efficiency I think it is worth it. What is your theory on setting the lash? Does your shop do valve adjustments on these or do you refer to the dealer?
  • Same thing happens on my 02 Taco 4x4 Dbl cab. But in 1st gear. It will take a 10th of a mile to shift sometimes when it's cold.
    I have a plug on the tx pan. NOTE: the book says 2 quarts. It's wrong. It's 4 quarts of ATF.
    Mark
  • If you burn Mexican gass run the B&G fule injuctor cleaner and change your gas filter.
  • I just had a new muffler put on my 2000 2.7 4x4 5 spd...

    All was ok before, but after I had the muffler put on, my check engine light has come on, and won't go away.

    My Gas mileage has decreased a bit (down to 18 mpg from 21 mpg)... Wondering if it's an O2 censor, or perhaps my mass air flow censor?

    ALSO... My "brake" light goes on periodically... I need new brakes as it is - does toyota make this a feature to let you know WHEN to replace your brakes?

    Thanks in advance!

    - JS
  • ustazzafustazzaf Posts: 311
    I have seen many people complaining about difficulty shifting into 4 low. I have found with mine that if I am stopped and the clutch is fully depressed, it will go in and out every time without fail. Let it out an inch, and maybe not. Very simple fix, although it is not a fix but doing what you are supposed to do. I can't talk for the automatics, but I am willing to bet that if you have problems, it is operator error.
  • msibillemsibille Posts: 275
    If the muffler drastically affects the exhaust back pressure, it could throw a few things off. However, the first thing I would do would be to disconnect the battery ground cable for 5 or 10 minutes. This will reset the driveability settings to the defaults. Then drive normally. (NOTE- If the check engine light FLASHES, STOP IMMEDIATELY. A flashing check engine light indicates a severe, possibly engine damaging, condition.)

    If, after the above, the chk engine light goes off and stays off, or within a short time, that's probably the end of it. If it is still on, I would drive over to an AutoZone or similar place if you don't have an OBD code reader and get them to plug in and check it for you. From that you'll have more clues.

    Brake light- the lamp will go on if you have low brake fluid, proportioning valve failure, parking brake engaged, etc. If you know you need a brake job, perhaps the fluid level is low. (As the linings wear, the pistons have to extend further, the displacement of the pistons requires add'l fluid from the reservoir. This can, in some circumstances, bring the level low enough to trigger the light, especially during firm acceleration or stop, or hard turns. Particularly apt to do this if linings are worn at all 4 wheels as often happens at the 2nd, 4th, 6th... brake changes.) Check your fluid level, but most important, don't put off the brake lining changes so long that you damage rotors or drums. You'll more than double the cost of the brake job, not to mention any safety issues.
  • bogie3bogie3 Posts: 5
    I also have this rattle in a 02 model. Live in Jacksonville, Fl. Appreciate your help.
  • jn99jn99 Posts: 4
    This is the first thing to try remove your glove box to access the lower part of the air bag you will see two 12mm bolts holding the base of the air bag assemble remove these bolts GENTLY pry the metal tabs back a small amount and place one flat washer (about 1mm thick) under each tab then reinstall the bolts and glove box. this repair works about 30% of the time the perminet fix is you must remove the dash pad and wrap the line up pins with thin felt tape. this is a repair that Toyota warranty for 3/36 there is a TSB for the field fix however I have had to redo several do to the fact that the tech that tried to to the repair was a sloppy worker if your truck is out of factory warranty its really not all that hard to remove the dash pad after practice I can do it in less than 20mins but the felt wrapping must be preside if I had your e-mail I might could send pics but I can't show you just in words there are two dealers in Jax I think one has a service manager named Jonathon Mcdowell he is a good guy and runs a tight shop if you wish to thy them out
  • pecaspecas Posts: 9
    I'm having a similar problem with my 2000 2.7 pre-runner. It runs fine for two months and then just dies in traffic and won't restart. After sitting for an hour or so it restarts and runs fine for another month or two. I'm getting ready to replace the engine control module. Its had a recent tune up and generally runs well except for lower than expected milage (17mpg)
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