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Toyota Tacoma: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • msibillemsibille Posts: 275
    If you've used a codereader and have no error codes to guide you (including using one when the engine quits, but before it cools down), I would have the ignition coil(s) checked before replacing the computer. If the coil resistances are OK cold (including checking for shorts from primary to secondary or secondary to ground), I would run it until it quits, and before it cools down, recheck the resistances. If that turns up nothing, try the computer I suppose.
  • zaq42zaq42 Posts: 1
    The brakes on my 2005 Tacoma messed up, too. I was in an accident and really stepped on them. Well, they stuck to the floor. The repair people fixed my car, but the brakes are not the same. sometimes they stick, but most of the time they are depressed and as soon as I tap them the truck stops with full breaking power. IT SUCKS!

    Is this a defect?
  • pecaspecas Posts: 9
    Lucky you! the 2.7 doesn't have a timing belt. I guess you service the chain if it breaks or screws up in some other way.
  • bogie3bogie3 Posts: 5
    Thanks for the intructions. I'll see how it goes. If you have time to send a picture I made my email address public.
  • Is it complicated to replace starter contacts :mad: :mad:
  • 95 Toyota 5sp....Just started having this problem, it happens in 1st, and sometimes in 3rd, Your sitting at a stop light and shift into first, When the light turns green you let the clutch out and you start moving then Pop, your out of gear, theres no grinding when you shift into any gear. The clutch has 175,000, but no slipping, seems to work ok. Are there shifter bushing? and could they be worn out.
    Charles
  • My 2006 Tacoma has major glare issues from the rear window, when I look out the rear view mirror. This is most evident at night. It's almost impossible to tell if I'm looking at traffic behind me or oncoming. I've let other people drive and they get the same glare problem. I've had pickup trucks all my life, all makes & models. I've never had this before. Besides the cab being a little cramped, this is one of the best trucks I've ever had.
  • Thought I would let you know what I found, I pulled the shifter out to check the bushing (plastic), found it worn but not to bad, what I did find was caked in dirt, really pressed into side of where the shifter throws, didnt think this could cause any problem, but I cleaned it all out of there, installed the new bushing, (4.95) from toyota, reassembled and now it works just like new, no slip out of 1 or 3rd, so I guess one of those things was making it slip, apparently not allowing it to go all the way into gear.
    Charles
  • Try re-adjusting your mirror. It has two pivot points. Push the neck up high and then aim the mirror.

    Or get an autodimming mirror. Got my Homelink autodimming mirror on Ebay for $130. It has convenient garage door opening buttons built in. No need for a remote on the visor.

    Check my CarDomain for info on installing a Homelink mirror.

    http://www.cardomain.com/ride/832238
  • Thanks so much for the reply! The problem isn't in the mirror, it's in the rear window. I probably didn't explain it very well in my post. I can turn around in my seat & look out the rear window and see the reflections of on coming cars. I might try one of those tinted decals.
  • How do i reset the 5000 mile oil maintenance light. I see nothing in my owners manual
  • It's in the manual. I've read it before.

    But I think this is how it goes:

    With the ignition key on ACC, set your odometer on mileage(not trip a or b) then turn key off. then hold they button that switchs from odo and trip, then turn the key back to acc. while you are holding it down you will notice the maintenance light blink and go out, and then you are done.
  • Oh, OK. That's weird. Never heard that problem before. Do you have Rain-X or something on your windows? Maybe it would help to tint your windows? :confuse:
  • It's on page 150 of the manual. Make sure it's set to Odometer, then turn the key on while holding the Trip reset button. Hold the button for about 5 seconds until '0000000' appears, then let go and you are done.
  • Hi all,
    First time posting here, hoping someone can shed some light on an issue that I've been having with my truck:
    I have a 2005 Tacoma Double Cab, non TRD, 2x4.
    When the frame is twisted (even just slightly) with the left side down/right side up (or vice versa), there is a metal click that happens. At first I thought it was a front right suspension thing but I'm pretty sure it isn't. I had a friend help me try and figure out where it was coming from and he thought he pinpointed it to the passenger side front bumper to frame mount (3 bolt mount). I tried to see if any of the bolts were loose but they all seemed pretty tight.
    Anyone have any experience with this or ideas of what to do next? (Dealer already went searching for it and was unsuccessful... they say they'll have a factory rep look at it but I get the feeling they're stalling). THANKS
  • I have a 2006 Tacoma 4cyl automatic and am having a problem with a wooshing noise when I turn my steering wheel all the way and move foward after STARTING the truck. The dealer says it is the fuel injection system purging itself, but I do not by that. I also have a problem with a dieseling when accelerating, very slight but it is there. They also told me it is water inthe fuel I buy. I have changed gas station but it is still there. My truck has about 2,000 miles on it. please let me know if it is just me or is something wrong with my truck.
  • jn99jn99 Posts: 4
    Try another dealer they all will warranty any legit problems. you may want to try a higher octane fuel. The wooshing noise is probly a normal power steering noise fuel systems do not have to purge after each start up that is a load of bull also if your truck has ABS it does go threw a self check shortly after the brake pedal is released after start up

    If all else fails with this Dealer call 1-800-contact that is a number to TMS (Toyota Motor Sales) they may help you get your problem resolved but be sure to be polite threw the whole prosses you WILL GET BETTER RESULTS if you will make your e-mail public I might can give you more info I have a bit of exclusive knowledge about this brand of truck
  • pecaspecas Posts: 9
    Does anyone know what the circuit opening relay does and where its located on a 2000 pre-runner regular cab?
  • 96toy96toy Posts: 2
    hey man. i have a 96 tacoma 4 cyl. and i was wondering how you changed the fuel filter. mine is under the intake plenum which means removing it. do you have any suggestions. thanks
  • 96toy96toy Posts: 2
    How can i change the fuel filter on the truck with out taking of the intake plenum? it seems to be the only way to do it.
  • Its been just 17 days and my Tacoma has the same problem all over again. ~30F ambient this morning, the motor turned but would not start, had AAA tow it to the same dealer. One thing I noticed is that my gas level is almost the same everytime I have this $700 problem, its halfway between the last quarter and E on the guage? Bad floater? Now What? With a new onboard computer, fuel pump, what's wrong? Anyone with a similar 02XC, 2.7L have similar problems.
    TACOMA's ARE ABSOLUTELY UNRELIABLE. After I get this fixed, I'm fearing if this should occur on a busy Interstate someday, if given a choice, NEVER EVER buy a Tacoma outside of factory warranty. I am waiting for the dealer now to call me and give me a new estimate...

    My original post:
    begin"

    #1783 02 XC, 42K will not start- pump/computer bad - true? by ben2002 Jan 17, 2006 (8:12 am)
    Bookmark | Reply | E-mail Msg
    Hi Guys, I have a problem with my 02, XC, 42k, pre-runner. On sunday, with ~40F ambient, my truck would not start at all, it would crank well but did not start. I tried everything mentioned in the manual (alleviate flooding etc), but nothing worked. No use using a jump because the battery looked healthy. Eventually I had it towed to a dealer on Monday at 8AM, the guys there spent the whole day trying to diagnose the problem, at 5PM, they called me - it's "partially" the onboard computer and "partially" the fuel pump to blame. Since the onboard computer is still under warranty ( I think 60k) and I have a 6yr/100k extended warranty passed on from the owner, I didnt care to ask what "partially" means...but this was surprising to me because its too early for the pump and computer to die. And I am not questioning the dealers diagnosis because they had quite a number of people look at it. Has anyone experienced a similar problem this early or is that an isolated case. I am troubled with this experience, Toyota is much much better, I am sure.

    end"
  • msibillemsibille Posts: 275
    Ben,
    Sorry to hear of your trouble.
    Did anyone clean the fuel tank?

    Generally, it's good practice to keep the fuel tank as full as possible. Not only in these days of emergencies (both natural and maniacal) but because, particularly in cooler weather, condensation accummulates in the fuel tank. The more air in the tank (i.e. lower fuel level) the more moisture that will condense in the tank.

    Having said this, all water and trash generally will accummulate in the bottom of the tank (gasoline is less dense). Once the float and pickup get very low, the chance of sucking in water or trash increases. Fill the tank full and he pickup is higher in the tank and gets a light flushing.

    It is also possible that there is a crack of leak in the pickup. The leak may be submerged when the tank is at higher levels, but when the arm is near the bottom of the travel, the leak may be exposed to the air. THis could allow some air to be entrained in the pickup, resulting in low fuel pressure.

    Hope some of this helps.

    good luck.
  • My 2001 Tacoma steering starting having play in the steering wheel all at once while I was driving. Has anyone had this problem? My truck is not on recall list for steering. Tks. Gone1167
  • kdea,

    I have the same problem with my 05 Tacoma and mine has 20k miles on it... I was just told by the service manager at the toyota dealership in Cumberland, MD he read a post on it and you are NEVER going to believe this, he asked me what my skid plate was like, asked if it was the black one.. he said something with the aero dynamics and how it is mounted below, that yours will most likely need replaced... Let me know how you make out with this... Is a shame you had all of that done unecessarily....
  • Gone,

    Read what I just wrote kdea... talk to your service dept. about having your skid plate replaced... if they read their postings, they will have heard about this by now.. if not, contact Toyota in Cumberland Md. They will tell you... they are up on all of this.. Good luck.
  • 2k1trd2k1trd Posts: 301
    The guy who told you that it is "partially" the fuel pump and computer is "partially" an idiot!...Someone is miss diagnosing your vehicle and the Tacoma is a very reliable vehcicle.I have never replaced a Toyota fuel pump in my 20 years of working on cars.If you had a GM vehicle well that would be different!
  • jn99jn99 Posts: 4
    it turns on your fuel pump primarly and is a small black relay on the bottom rear of the fuse block under the driver dash panel towards the passenger side
  • Can you tell me what the skid plate is doing?

    Thanks for any info Gone1167
  • Thanks for info Disregard my last about skid plate. This is very interesting. I'll call my service manager.

    Gone1167
  • I have the same problem with the wooshing sound on start up and turning the steering wheel on my 2006 4 cyl. The dealer says it is a normal fuel injection system sound when it is purging. I doubt that Toyota would ever have allowd such a noise in there vehicles, quality is the first thing I think of when I here the name Toyota. What can I say maybe try another dealer, check out post #1824. :confuse:
  • Just put a deposit on a 01 Tacoma Double Cab TRD. It has 39000 mi. so it's Toyota cert. for 100K or 2yrs. The Dealer is offering a bumper to bumper for $695.00. I know it,s like buying life ins. but there any issues with the 01's I need to know about. I've never been big on extended warr. and after all it's a Toyota right?
  • mikefm58mikefm58 Posts: 2,882
    Is it a Toyota backed warranty? Probably not since it's 4 yrs old with 39K miles. If not, I'd save my money. If so, and it gives you peace of mind, go for it.
  • Just purchased a 06 tacoma V6-at 1800-2200 rpm I hear a lifter or poss. exhaust noise-anyone know anything about it? thanks
  • Could any one help me figure out why I get such poor gas mileage in my 2001 Tacoma, it is full time 4x4 with an extra cab, it has 18" tires that rub when turned tight. I have had the truck for about four months and only get around 250 miles on a tank of gas, I figure that's around 15 MPG.
    I bought the truck for $9,000 from a woman who originally was asking $15,000, I was told that it had fender damage that was repaired, on signing the papers was informed that it has a branded title. The truck looks and runs great, all though I have been waiting to find the reason she came down on the price so much, as far as I can tell the only problem is the Gas mileage. Any idea's or suggestions.
  • pecaspecas Posts: 9
    This seems to be a common complaint. I bought a 2000 tacoma pre-runner 2wd/4 cylinder used and it gets only 17.5mpg. When I bought it I couldn't figure out why the bad gas milage. I was expecting 22+. The truth is that while some tacoma models might get that much, most small trucks get disappointing milage. (Probably due to the gear ratios) Before making any repairs other than a tune-up, check the internet to see what toyota says that model should get. Then deduct 10% or so because the factory estimates are rarely real-world. The tacomas are great little trucks however, enjoy.
  • kdeakdea Posts: 3
    Thanks for the info, how ever when i took mine in originally they talked about and ordered a new skid plate, but when they went to put it on and realized the one that buletin was applying to was to the upgraded one. If they replace yours send me a reply with the part#. They have just replaced my motor mounts and still no diffrence!
  • cpj1cpj1 Posts: 1
    I have Toyota Tacoma 2001 Prerunner, and when I stop at red light it shakes the whole cab, and vibrates and the idle goes under 600 RPM.
    If I put it in neutral or I drive it on the road it runs prfect. Can you help me? I have changed idle air control system and i believe the idle control sensor.
    I just don't know.
    Heeeeelp
    cj
  • I think I have an electrical problem with my 05 4cyl. Taco. First, the radio would cut out on cold days when I warmed it up-happened twice in a row, and it would come back on after about 10 minutes. Also, around that time I noticed a burning plastic smell, and a drop in mpg from 23+ to barely 18. Took it to dealer, they said nothing was wrong with it. Then two weeks later, on the way to getting gas on a colder day (around 20 degrees), the truck lost power, but didn't stall. Called AAA, they brought me gas and it was fine, ran fine after I had the gas station put dry gas in for me.
    Then the other day, on the highway I had let it warm up for a little bit, and when I turned on the heater, the engine lost power but didn't stall. I called AAA, and they came. During the time I was waiting, the truck started up fine and I moved it a little bit further off the highway. I got it towed again to the same dealer.
    The Dealer said it was something in the fuel system and replaced the sub tank, a suction hose and a suction gasket. Only problem is, I looked at the paper work and they wrote down that "truck stalled and would not restart", so I think they basically grasped at something to repair to "make me happy". The service advisor basically told me and my husband that the truck should catch on fire before the engine stalls out if there is an electrical problem. Great. I feel REAL safe.

    Oh yeah, and I had recently noticed the burning smell again pretty badly and the mpg had again dropped a little bit (I have gotten it back up to around 20-21, but this tank was probably about 18 again).

    Does anyone else have any similar problems?
  • I have a 1996 Tacoma 4x4, and for whatever reason my cruise control doesn't work. And before I get f*cked by anyone as far as money goes, I figured I would ask here. So here's where I sound stupid....in the fuse box area, which fuse controls the Cruise Control? Figured I would start there and work my way up the money scale to getting it fixed.

    Thanks Bunches ;p
  • I have a 2001 Taco with the 4 cyl. It is just under 50,000 miles. So far, I have only had to replace the power steering pump. The dealer wanted over $650 for the job. I did it myself for $100. Now the brakes are starting to squeek. I can fix those myself, also. I guess an extended warranty depends on your faith in the vehicle and your ability to fix things that break. I am hoping to 300,000 out of it. We'll see.
  • msibillemsibille Posts: 275
    You might get better response to your posting if you used more appropriate language in a public forum. (ref. your 2nd sentence, posted in several topics) The question doesn't sound as stupid as the language in the 2nd sentence.

    Now as for your question- as I often told my kids- Look it up. You have an owner's manual, don't you? Outside of that, the panels have labels.
  • I am selling my truck on cl, enough heartburn for me...

    TACOMA BUYERS: BE WARNED - DO NOT EXPECT TOYOTA RELIABILITY FROM TOYOTA TACOMA TRUCKS - THEY ARE ABSOLUTELY UNRELIABLE, TOYOTA MAKES JUNK IN THE NAME OF TACOMA's (2002)

    My previous posts:

    "
    Its been just 17 days and my Tacoma has the same problem all over again. ~30F ambient this morning, the motor turned but would not start, had AAA tow it to the same dealer. One thing I noticed is that my gas level is almost the same everytime I have this $700 problem, its halfway between the last quarter and E on the guage? Bad floater? Now What? With a new onboard computer, fuel pump, what's wrong? Anyone with a similar 02XC, 2.7L have similar problems.
    TACOMA's ARE ABSOLUTELY UNRELIABLE. After I get this fixed, I'm fearing if this should occur on a busy Interstate someday, if given a choice, NEVER EVER buy a Tacoma outside of factory warranty. I am waiting for the dealer now to call me and give me a new estimate...

    My original post:
    begin"

    #1783 02 XC, 42K will not start- pump/computer bad - true? by ben2002 Jan 17, 2006 (8:12 am)
    Bookmark | Reply | E-mail Msg
    Hi Guys, I have a problem with my 02, XC, 42k, pre-runner. On sunday, with ~40F ambient, my truck would not start at all, it would crank well but did not start. I tried everything mentioned in the manual (alleviate flooding etc), but nothing worked. No use using a jump because the battery looked healthy. Eventually I had it towed to a dealer on Monday at 8AM, the guys there spent the whole day trying to diagnose the problem, at 5PM, they called me - it's "partially" the onboard computer and "partially" the fuel pump to blame. Since the onboard computer is still under warranty ( I think 60k) and I have a 6yr/100k extended warranty passed on from the owner, I didnt care to ask what "partially" means...but this was surprising to me because its too early for the pump and computer to die. And I am not questioning the dealers diagnosis because they had quite a number of people look at it. Has anyone experienced a similar problem this early or is that an isolated case. I am troubled with this experience, Toyota is much much better, I am sure.

    end"
    "
  • Does anyone have a piston problem with their toyota trucks?
    Piston slap is also known as "Cold Morning Knock" or "Cold Knock" and it is a rattling sound during a start up when the weather is cold and the car has been sitting over night.

    If you want to learn more about it and hear the sound, goto www.pistonslap.com

    I have a '99 tacoma with 67k and it started doing that recently, after five years of no problems in the past. The service dept at a toyota dealer finally heard the noise and diagnosed it as a "piston slap" and said it is normal, nothing to worry about, will not affect the durability of my car. However, it IS a big deal! and I am finding out that I am not the only one with a piston slap problem (although the manager claims I am). So, I am making a list of toyota owners with this problem to present to the Toyota itself and see what they will do about it.

    Ford and Chrysler have already replaced thousands of engines b/c they recognize it as a big problem where as GM is refusing to do the same for their customers.

    If you're having the same problems and want Toyota to do something about it, email me and be on my list.

    [email protected]

    Thanks, Kim.
  • pecaspecas Posts: 9
    Don't sell the truck yet. You are facing the reality that the dealer was unable to find the cause of your problem. Their solution was to take a wild guess in the wind and charge you a bunch of money. I recently had the same type of frustrating problem on my 2000 2.7 pre-runner. No trouble codes showing and the truck would stall in traffic and not restart. After replacing the computer ($350 used on the internet) the problem showed up again. A recommended local mechanic found my problem and charged me $75. (A loose electrical connection in the fuse/relay box under the hood. A fuse had burned out and the previous owner did not have the correct type so he jury rigged a wire in there to complete the connection. Most of the time it worked, but when it didn't the truck wouldn't run at all. You can isolate the problem a little better yourself by removing one of the plug wires at the coil/igniter when the car won't start. Have a helper turn over the engine while you hold the loose wire an inch or so away from its connection. The spark, if you have one should jump the gap an inch or so. If there is no spark you have an electrical problem. If there is a spark you most likely have some type of fuel problem. I cannot stress enough the value of a good reliable independent local mechanic.
  • msibillemsibille Posts: 275
    That's odd that you say GM is refusing to do anything (not unbelievable, but odd). In 1976, my sister ordered a new Chevy Caprice Classic that had piston slap noticed by the dealer at delivery. They said they would rebore the block and sleeve it, but offered her the option of a new vehicle if she wanted to wait a few wks for delivery. I thought that was very responsible of them. In this case, the slap was caused by one cylinder bore being just a bit out of alignment. The repair was to rebore and sleeve all cylinders in the block.
  • msibillemsibille Posts: 275
    I know that you're frustrated, but before you sell it off at a loss (or at someone else's expense and frustration), did you check the things I suggested?

    1-Did anyone clean the fuel tank?
    (As noted in earlier response, it's good practice to keep the fuel tank as full as possible. In cooler weather, condensation accummulates in the fuel tank. The more air in the tank (i.e. lower fuel level) the more moisture that will condense in the tank. )

    2-Also, water and trash generally will accummulate in the bottom of the tank (gasoline is less dense). Once the float and pickup get very low, the chance of sucking in water or trash increases. Fill the tank full and he pickup is higher in the tank and gets a light flushing.

    3-It is also possible that there is a crack or leak in the pickup. The leak may be submerged when the tank is at higher levels, but when the arm is near the bottom of the travel, the leak may be exposed to the air. This could allow some air to be entrained in the pickup, resulting in low fuel pressure.

    If your observation that it only happens in the last 1/8 of a tank is correct, that's a pretty good clue. Does it solve the prblem if you merely fill the tank?

    If you add only a gallon, does that immediately solve the prblm?(If so, then maybe the gage is off)

    If one gallon doesn't solve it, but a fillup does, maybe you have water/trash in the tank and it merely needs flushing and a new filter.

    I agree w earlier posts, if you haven't tried another mechanic or Toy shop, you shouldn't give up yet. After all,what are you going to do? -Sell it at a loss when you disclose it to the purchaser? (I did that with the pathetic Ford Ranger I bought in 1984, after fighting it for years. The guys bought it from me at a price that he could afford to replace the engine -and he finally did.) Or are you going to rip someone by selling them a faulty truck w/o disclosing it (which may be what happened to you)?
  • Sorry it took so long to reply. I only check this about 1/wk. I had identical mileage to that on my new 4cyl Taco precrunner 2.7L (2000)90K Miles. No tune up or any of that nonsense will improve your mileage. This engine is just a bit too small for this truck, and with any normal highway driving it will get poor mileage. I have several friends with 6cyl and they routinely get better mileage than I do.
    Regardless, about 20K ago I purchased new tires and this made a huge huge HUGE! difference. I purchased Michellin tires, same size as the stock Gyears. I noticed right away that my my mileage seemed better, then I started to track it. I have been keeping an Excel sheet for the past year or so and I am now at an average mileage of 22.8 MPG with a standard deviation of 0.5 MPG These tires (about $600 installed) have literally paid for themselves in gas savings. = +5 MPG is about 150 extra miles per tank ca/ 5-6 gallons is about $12.00 per tank I am saving in gas. That was 20K miles ago, which is about $600 in gas savings. I didn't believe this until I started tracking all of my mileage etc. etc.
    Also, just to put the issue to rest, because I know it is B.S I used premium gasoline for 4 months straight and my mileage didn't change one iota... statistically speaking. It didn't run better and the only thing I was out was an extra $0.15 a gallon...

    Buy new tires. These were Mich 255 75R15 LTX SUV tires with 5x rating for water. They are a driving tire, not an offroad tire, they are quiet, stick like glue and handle about 1000x better than the OEM Goodyears. I was blown away and wouldn't have believed it unless I had kept the data.
  • Where can I purchase a hi amp alternator? I would like about 130amps. I know it will be an after market. I don't want to pay an arm & a leg. One place wanted $800.
    Thanks, John
  • Search your local phone book. There are places that can re-wind your stock alternator and beef up the amperage.

    In my area Ohio Generator does this stuff.
  • Thanks for the info. Good Idea.

    John Gone1167
This discussion has been closed.