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Toyota Tacoma: Problems & Solutions



  • i had same problem my xrunner came up as srunner lol maybe i have your vin
  • mtrmtr Posts: 1
    Last week I was driving my 2001 Tacoma Prerunner (2WD) down a paved mountain grade and noticed vibrations when braking and when I stopped I could smell and saw smoke coming from the left front brake which was obviously overheating. I just brought it in to the Toyota dealership (the same dealership that changed the front brake pads and resurfaced the rotors 10, 000 miles ago) and they say everything checks out fine. If so why did it overheat? They say they can't do anything but I think they should do something as I am concerned about future overheating and brake failure. I know Tacomas have brake problems and am wondering if anyone else has had severe overheating (not just vibrations/chattering) and what did you and/or the dealer do to resolve the problem?
  • I took my 2000 Tacoma prerunner into the dealership for its 30k mile scheduled maintenances. Part of the procedure is to replace the sparkplugs. I dont have any idea why they do it so early. Anyway every since then the plugs keep going bad. I have had in 4 times now. I asked the dealer the last time what was wrong with them and he said the were cracked. It happens about every 2500 miles. It will all of a sudden just start idling bad intermitantly and gets worse from there. I was going to go ahead and replace them myself this time, but the way they are located so deep in engine and the amount of things you have to remove just to get to them is insane. Has anybody else seen a similar problem with plugs going bad?
  • msibillemsibille Posts: 275
    If the starter quits cranking while you still hold the key in the start position, that's not a fuel system problem. Possible issues are a bad ignition switch, bad starter solenoid (high amp relay that actually turns on the power to the starter), or a bad starter. Other possible problems would be bad connections, particularly a bad ground, or a problem with the flywheel or starter pinion gear. Since bad connections are cheap to work with, that's where I normally go first. (It's a hell of a thing to spend a few hundred on a starter, and several hours swapping it out, to later find out that you had a loose ground cable.)

    (Warning note, don't engage the starter for more than 15 seconds at a time. The electric motor in the starter would be rated for a small fraction of the load it carries if it had to run continously. But since a starter normally only runs for a few seconds, the heat buildup is not an issue. But continuing to run a starter for longer than 15 seconds or so will cause heat buildup which will break down the insulation on the windings and short them. As individual winding short, the amperage goes up, causing more heat and more shorting until the starter just can no longer turn the engine.)

    The earlier suggestions were based on the assumption that the starter was able to crank the engine without fail. If this happens after you wash the truck, that should be reproducible. (While they can't read a code from the onboard computer if there is no MIL light on, they can plug a monitor in and leave it plugged in for you to drive home with it to wash it as you usually do. After you wash it, and attempt to start it, possibly a code could be picked up.) However, if it is a starting circuit issue, there will likely be no codes generated. I don't think that the OBD II diagnostics accommodate sensing of anything that would find a loose, leaking (water) or corroded connection in the high amperage starter circuit, nor a bad starter, starter solenoid, or starter switch.

    Have you mentioned to the dealer that this happens after washing the vehicle, and that the starter will fail to continue to turn? If it were in my driveway, I would check all the cables to/from the starter and starter solenoid (both positive and ground cables) for loose connections, corrosion, etc. I would check the wiring between the starter switch and the starter solenoid, particularly for bad boots/seals that might be affected by moisture. Then I would check the switch itself, the starter solenoid, and the starter.

    Good luck.
  • msibillemsibille Posts: 275
    Unless the price of the manuals went up greatly in the last month or so, the manuals should be $136 each from Toyota (visit the website for the 800 number or look in the back of your owner's manual for the service literature contact number), and there are 3 volumes, which comes to $408 + about $15 shpg. Still a big stack of change, but not $575 -is that price from a dealer hungry to get into your wallet?

    However, I recently bought my 3 volume set of 2005 Taco manuals on eBay for half the retail price. If you search, I'd bet you would find them. Seller was Jcmanuals1, transaction was smooth, delivered as promised, in pristine condition.

    Granted, a couple hundred bucks is still a nice stack of change, but for every new vehicle I have ever purchased, when I bought the factory service manuals I did not regret it, and the one time I did (with a 1984 %^&#$#$ Ford Ranger), I regretted not having bought the factory svc manuals. (Haynes and Chiltons are fine if you know nothing about basic service/maintenance of vehicles, but the detail is badly lacking and they provide virtually no value to me. What I find in those manuals, I either learned in high school while maintaining my parents' cars, are have read in Popular Science or Popular Mechanics.)

    Often the value of the factory svc manual is not so much in helping you to do the work (which it often does), but to know what needs to be done, so that you know whether you need to bring it in to the dealer or just another mechanic, and if so, how much time and $$$$ it should take.
  • smitty7smitty7 Posts: 1
    Have you heard anything on this issue? I just started noticing the same thing on my '03 Tacoma. Same situation with accelerating and braking. Low speed it does not occur. I have greased all the zerks in the drive shaft and no difference. Recommendations?
  • dudleydudley Posts: 9
    I picked up the DC in December '05 -- shortly thereafter, the carpets were soaking wet. I thought maybe I left a window open -- had the doors open and went out with a hair dryer for a few days.

    After heavey rains last week -- checked the truck and it is soaking wet -- really need this solved as it is starting to get musty. all the best Dudley
  • pb2themaxpb2themax Posts: 471
    The windshield has a leak around the seal. Toyota has fixed this problem on more recently built Tacomas. Take it to your Toyota dealership to get it fixed.
  • msibillemsibille Posts: 275
    Sorry for not responding sooner. I didn't realize nobody had responded.

    The most common cause of something like that is a bad ground connection.
    There are a number of reasons for that, but suffice it to say that's the first place to look. Not necessarily the quickest (or cheapest if you have to pay for labor), but it's the most common. The poor ground may result in a "backup" in the system, and provide some current to lamps that are "off". Since the high resistance of the connection causes the "potential" at that connection point to be at a higher voltage than the battery ground, and since the voltage across the panel lights is the supplied voltage (12- 15 VDC, depending on whether the engine is running and the variation in your regulator) minus the voltage at the ground connection for the lamps, increasing current from the high-amperage fan raises the voltage at the ground connection, lowering the available voltage to the lamps, resulting in dimming of the panel lamp.

    You don't mention year model or mileage, but if it's in warranty, give them the symptoms -exactly what you observed, not presume, and then suggest that they might want to look for a bad ground.

    Good luck
  • I have told the dealer 5 times now the pattern I have with washing this truck.My truck is now going back to the shop on Monday again for the 6th time I washed it Tuesday and Wednesday night it was very hard starting again.I am now getting a very looooooooonng crank.(Had this certain problem back in November)eventually it does start after 2 or 3 attempts.I have asked the dealer to put something on my truck to prove that it is not starting.They told me there is nothing they can put on it to give them some type of code.If they can't duplicate the problem they can't fix it.This truck will start straight 3 weeks at a time but every now and then it just won't start.I have felt the it always had something to do with moisture.But the dealer can't find anything, because it doesn't act up when the truck is there.I will tell the mechanic what you had said in this forum.(But of course they don't want to hear how to do there job)I am going to take your advice and take my truck to another mechanic(who doesn't work for Toyota)and have the wiring and starter and so on looked at.Hopefully I can get an answer from this other mechanic.Thank-you for all your help whoever you are. I will post the results as soon as I find something out.
  • msibillemsibille Posts: 275
    I wish you best of luck.

    Only advice (and I may be repeating myself) I have now is for you to write down exactly what the conditions were (e.g. had just washed the truck, been thru a snowstorm, whatever), and what you observed, and what happened between when it wouldn't start and when it finally did. If you've noticed different symptoms at different times, make separate lists, noting the details for each. Then, take a break, and come back to your list after a while and make sure it makes sense to you, and describes everything you observed. This will maximize the value you get from the independent mechanic as it will take him less time to understand what it is that you've seen/heard.

  • kbshadowkbshadow Posts: 22
    I e mailed Ask Toyota and asked them when and if they fixed the problem on the production line.

    I got a real nasty reply and they said they did not know if any productions were made.

    Quote from them below.
    ("Technical Service Bulletin BO004-05, Front Cowl Water Leak Repair Procedure is dated March 17, 2005. We do not have any additional information on when any production changes may have been made, if any.

    Toyota makes all TSB available to the public for purchase, through our Material Distribution Center")

  • maxvenummaxvenum Posts: 39
    That sounds pretty typical of the Ask Toyota. I have asked them 3 or 4 different questions, and never got a real answer.
  • lomareslomares Posts: 16
    Hey jenx,

    Here are some pics of my 05' Impulse Red, DC LB, TRD Sport... I use Zaino. First time user and now an ALL the time user. Since the pics, I have added 2 more coats and now even with a thin layer of California dust on it, it still shines like it was just waxed. The durability of Zaino is incredible.

    A friend just showed me his black civic today with a "NuFinish" wax on it. Great look, very clean... you can tell it was waxed, but the "deepness" isn't there. There's something about the Zaino stuff that just makes the gloss have that "deep" effect to it... Check out the Zaino site for tons of info on washing. Also, do a search on the other forums and you'll get tons more on detailing and washing...

    Anyway here are the pics... flip through them and pay attention to the reflections. The pics were taken on a very overcast day...

  • centralcalcentralcal Posts: 215
    If you have already used a previous wax, can you just switch to Zaino, or do you need to prep the paint. Also, do you use it on the Rims? Plastic? Where did you buy the Zaino? thanks
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    You want to head over to our ongoing Zaino discussion in the Maintenance & Repair board. They'll be more than happy to answer that question for you.

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • Please help!
    The button on the gear shift will not compress to allow the trany to shift into any gear. We have rocked the vehicle, put on the emergency brake and pulled as hard as we are willing to pull on the stick shift with fear of breaking something.
    If you have any experience with such a problem or any ideas of what to do please reply or call 707.894.5966 Major Thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :confuse:
  • kbshadowkbshadow Posts: 22
    My 2005 has instructions in the manual on unlockin it.

    You put a screwdriver in a slot by the lever and push something down.

    Don't have the manual here so can't look it up for you.

    Best I can do, sorry.

  • pb2themaxpb2themax Posts: 471
    Put those pics in the Tacoma Pictures thread. The thread doesn't seem to be catching on yet. C'mon
  • msibillemsibille Posts: 275
    I'm reluctant to ask, but did you have the ignition on, and depressed the brake pedal (regular service brake, not the emergency/parking brake) BEFORE you attempted to move the lever from park?

    The interlock will not allow the lever to be shifted from park to reverse until you have depressed the brake pedal. However, this interlock is "by wire", using an electrical solenoid motor to disengage the lock. If you have insufficient electrical power, or a bad brake switch (at the pedal), you may have to manually override by removing the small plastic cover at the base of the shifter, and using a screwdriver as described in the owner's manual. Then bring it in for repair.

    I have found that if I don't press the brake before I put even the slight pressure of my hand on the lever, sometimes the shifter will not move unless I release the lever, press the brake and try again.

    Good luck.
  • leob1leob1 Posts: 153
    I just had my 05 repaired for the water leak. It took the service dept one day to fix it, as in dropped it off in the morning and picked it up later. They were very nice and it went smoothly. The service bulletin you mentioned is the same one they used and even gave me a copy of. It is an easy fix so your truck will stay just like new.

    I had previously taken it in before the bulletin and they said "nothing was wrong." After the bulletin, they were able to detect the leak and seal the seams. You cannot tell the repair even happened, because it all happens underneath the windshield cowl.
  • 03taco03taco Posts: 3
    I think the Zaino discussion is going on over at also
  • Hi there,

    I have two problems that I want to try to fix this weekend on my 1996 Toyota Tacoma 2.7L 4x4 pickup-- one is the starter, and hte other I think is the fuel pump. My questions are, do I have the diagnosis right, and is there anyone else out there who's done these repairs who can tell me how hard they will be to do myself or tips of things to watch out for.

    On the starter, basically when I turn the ignition, all the lights are on and the battery seems okay, but I get a loud clack noise and then nothing. If I try this a couple times, the thing starts up. So I figure I need to replace the starter.

    On the fuel pump, every couple of days, when I start up the truck this motor comes on real loud right near the driver's side in the dashboard, it sounds like. It runs for several minutes and during that time the engine sometimes sounds like it is going to cut out. I can't drive during this time. It sounds like there's some liquid rushing around. I am assuming this is the fuel pump, and that it needs replaced. Anyone have any suggestions on this?

    I don't have a ton of experience doing these repairs myself (I've done sparkplugs, brake pads/rotors, oil changes, etc.) but I'd like to learn, so am wondering if these are too tough or hard to get to to do myself.

    Thanks a lot,

    Tacoma driver in CT
  • toy2001toy2001 Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Toyota Tacoma 4WD 4cyl. Check engine light came on the codes came up as P0125 and P1135. Are these O2 sensors? What happens if they are not fixed? How difficult to fix myself? Where are they located.
    Thanks for any advice.
  • I just got a '05 Toyota Tacoma Prerunner, There seems to be air comming in somewhere from the driver's side door and somewhere in the access cab portion of the truck. I've only had the truck a few weeks. Even though I opted for the 4 Cyl with the 5 Speed it's got plenty of power. I've only been averaging 20 miles to gallon with it though. Kinda disappointed with the fuel mileage in it. Anyone else been having these problems before I take it to the dealer and get the run around?

    I have a 2004 Camry also and that car is probably the most air tight car I've ever had. I swear though by those VVTI motors. I had a 2000 Corolla and I never had any problems with it even after 210,000 miles.
  • I took my truck to the mechanic up the road and he ran diags on it and was reading the No. 1 cylinder was misfiring. He replaced the celenoid and spark plug but that didn't help. I'm glad I called him on and didn't have to pay the $200.

    He did a compression test and said the No. 1 cylinder is only compressing at 100 pounds while the other others are at 200. He said that's what could be casuing the misfires.

    Now, he seemed kinda shady and as I was watching him, when he had the compression tested in the No. 1 Cylinder, he only spun the engine once. And when he put it in the other cylinders, he spun them several times. I was wondering if this was some kinda "shell game" just to get me outta there casue he didn't want to spend the time really troubleshooting it. He seemed kind of pissed off cause I mentioned to him that it was still idling a little rough and just wanted to get me outta there.

    He said I'll be OK at high RPM's and since he cleaned the fuel injectors, I have to admit, it is running a lot better.

    It's just when I idle, it's a litte choppy. And if I just bring up the RPM's another 100 or so, it stops. I was thinking maybe the idle is a litte to low. It's at like 750 RPM's now.

    But I'll never get past inspection with that check engine light on.

    I was thinking would "hotter" spark plugs or higher octane help with the misfires?

    I appreciate any help
  • dmuttdmutt Posts: 48
    I had a 1996 T-100 that had the same starter problems you are experiencing. It was the starter contacts that were worn out. They need to be replaced. Starter is more than likely fine.
  • I would go to another mechanic if it were me. Especially since you said he seemed shady and the fact that your truck is still not running right. I also wouldn't bother runner "hotter" plugs or using higher octane gas. They will not fix a misfiring cylinder but may only mask the problem. You need to find out what the real problem is (the first "mechanic" may not even be correct about the misfiring cylinder). You are correct, reverend, that your engine needs to be fixed and the error cleared from your computer before you can pass inspection. Good luck.
  • lomareslomares Posts: 16
    My Dad and I recently bought ourselves a 2005 Tacoma. His is an Access Cab 4-Cyl. Mine is DBL CB, LB, TRD Sport.

    The problem: My Dad was cleaning the interior and went to wipe down the back window starting at the Sliding Window... He touched the latch and the thing fell off!!! He said it was like the latch was just temporarly attached with a preishable adhesive.

    Has anyone else encountered this kind of problem? Has Toyota released any info about a similar issue? Any info on this is greatly appreciated.

    (BTW, the dealer is going the fix it, but the found it really odd too!)
  • john45john45 Posts: 18
    I don't know if my truck leaks or not since I've not been in the rain. Do you think I can take it in for the service/tech note on wate leak/windsheild?

This discussion has been closed.