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Toyota Tacoma: Problems & Solutions
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Comments
I talked to the dealer and they recommended putting them on the side wall near the front. The only problem is they need to be reinforced due to the fact they are not attached to the frame or anything else.
I talked with a 4x4 outfitter and they recommended removing the washer under the bolts that attach the bed to the frame and adding a steel tab that I could attach the hooks to.
I just wanted to see if any one has had any experience with this sort of project.
If you order online from one of the Toy online parts distributors, the price is reasonable and the instructions come with the parts, though you can dnload a pdf of the instructions beforehand from a lot of the online dealers.
The only problem I'm having is that when I come to a stop and it begins to idle a rattling noise starts up. This seems to happen more when the engine is still cold but stops if I put it into park. Sometimes it continues after the engine has heated up but only when idling in any gear other than park. Does anyone have an idea as to what the problem may be? Please let me know
Whoever designed the location for the clock I hope got fired from the company.
Also to Chagasi re timing belt/chain on 2.7L The 2.7L has a chain not a belt and does not have a recommended replacement mileage. You replace it when it gets very noisy along with the tensioner whereas the belt in the V6 is recommended to replace regardless of condition at 90K
If you look/feel under the "catch basin/cup" that the filter is above, you'll find a nib that a hose will fit on. The nib should have a rubber cap on it right now. It's intended that you connect a hose there and drop it into the waste oil container before loosening the filter.
Alternatively, what I do- A small plastic bottle from a 16 oz bottled water works really well here. W/ the cap removed from the bottle and the rubber cap off the nib of the catch basin, fit the bottle below to catch runoff from the nib. You'll find that the soft, flexible plastic bottle wedges in nicely between the radiator hose and the shroud, holding it in place. Loosen the filter and allow the oil to run out. Remove the filter, wipe the catch basin w/ a paper towel or rag, pushing the remainder thru the drain. Do this early in the oil change so that the cup and nib can drain fully. Remove the water bottle, wipe the nib of the catch basin, recap the water bottle and reinstall the rubber cap on the catch basin. Dispose of the waste oil w/ the rest of the drainage.
I find this so easy, I can't bear to let anyone else change the oil. (My wife's Odyssey gets the trip to the shop sometimes, but not my Taco.)
A 20 oz. plastic Coke (Diet works too... ) also fits right in the space.
Just don't ask me what might happen if you're not careful removing the bottle and you drop it down on the top of the skid plate...
whoops!
Cost is about ($80.00) at the dealer
My truck does seem to have any problems that are noticeable.
My limited knowledge of engines leads me to suspect that the cause could be either a bad oxygen sensor, faulty EGR system, or a clogged catalytic converter. Has anyone ever had this problem? The only thing I've noticed that may be related is that when I restart the engine after it's already at operating temperature, the idle is low and rough. But after I drive for a few minutes, the standing idle seems fine. It always idles fine when cold.
I also noticed that after the emissions test the computer screen read "vehicle underpowered." Not sure if that is related. Does anyone have any insight or a gut feeling as to why the NOx levels are high? Thank you in advance for any feedback.
Four things are needed for the engine to run- fuel, air, spark and spinning the engine to start. You had the last one for certain. The others rely on the control module, injectors, fuel pump/filter, injectors, etc.
The control module may last forever, or it can die at any time, however, most solid state electronics fail in the first 24hrs of operation, or following a number of "events" that cause surges in voltage (either in power, sensor inputs, or output lines) that eventually breakdown the internal resistance. Most of the latter failures cannot be traced to any known cause. (even a lightning strike very nearby can cause some weakening of the IC that will immediately, or eventually, result in failure).
As for fuel pumps, they are electro and mechanical so they can fail at any time, though these days most will last more than 75k miles, often well past 100k. But statistically, some will fail earlier, even right off the lot.
Quite possibly, the control module is failing one or more tests and the fuel pump output is less than spec, but not yet fully failed.
kcram - Pickups Host
I actually replaced the starter with an aftermarket one and it hasn't helped!
'95 should have OBDI or OBDII diagnostics. Get someone to plug in a code reader to see what you find thre.
I'm not going to say this truck is a lemon, but I have been disappointed by the rattle and Toyota's inability to fix it.
Sometimes, when coming to a stop it feels like the whole truck is buckling. Then it clunks. Mine won't shift out of 1st gear when its cold for a tenth of a mile; also.
Someone else on this sight was talking about Axel wrap. Something about the leafsprings being too soft.
Have you found anymore info.
Wright me back pleas!
Mark!
I have a plug on the tx pan. NOTE: the book says 2 quarts. It's wrong. It's 4 quarts of ATF.
Mark
All was ok before, but after I had the muffler put on, my check engine light has come on, and won't go away.
My Gas mileage has decreased a bit (down to 18 mpg from 21 mpg)... Wondering if it's an O2 censor, or perhaps my mass air flow censor?
ALSO... My "brake" light goes on periodically... I need new brakes as it is - does toyota make this a feature to let you know WHEN to replace your brakes?
Thanks in advance!
- JS
If, after the above, the chk engine light goes off and stays off, or within a short time, that's probably the end of it. If it is still on, I would drive over to an AutoZone or similar place if you don't have an OBD code reader and get them to plug in and check it for you. From that you'll have more clues.
Brake light- the lamp will go on if you have low brake fluid, proportioning valve failure, parking brake engaged, etc. If you know you need a brake job, perhaps the fluid level is low. (As the linings wear, the pistons have to extend further, the displacement of the pistons requires add'l fluid from the reservoir. This can, in some circumstances, bring the level low enough to trigger the light, especially during firm acceleration or stop, or hard turns. Particularly apt to do this if linings are worn at all 4 wheels as often happens at the 2nd, 4th, 6th... brake changes.) Check your fluid level, but most important, don't put off the brake lining changes so long that you damage rotors or drums. You'll more than double the cost of the brake job, not to mention any safety issues.