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ABS problems with Chevrolet Suburban

uglybuffalouglybuffalo Member Posts: 2
edited April 2014 in Chevrolet
I have a 1997 Suburban with 75,000 miles on it which has had an ABS problem for a few months. Needed to replace the brakes at 70,000 miles, but still had problems and my side street mechanic couldn't locate the problem. The dealer now says that the sensor needs replacing along with the wheel hub assembly - has anyone else had this done? Are the two actually connected? I thought the wheel hub assembly was separate from the sensor for the ABS. The actual problem has been that the ABS engages at slow speeds in normal driving conditions. And recently the ABS kicked in after my foot was off the brake pedal after making a turn.
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Comments

  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Many newer GM's use integrated WSS/hub & bearing assemblies which are non-serviceable. The slow speed ABS problem is typical of an intermittent WSS signal to the controller. Is this happening around 6-10 MPH? If so, what you're feeling is the system going through it's self-test after the signal has been restored. It's usually the right front WSS dinked (guess which side curbs are on). Another thing to check is proper routing of the WSS harnesses. I've seen them improperly routed, allowing them to chafe through the insulation or cause harness strain on turns.
  • uglybuffalouglybuffalo Member Posts: 2
    The ABS problem has been on the driver's side front wheel. It has worn out brake pads in just a few months. The ABS lockup occurs at any speed of 10 mph or less, especially at under 5 mph. The ABS is definitely intermittently locking up the brakes on bare pavement and increasing the braking distance. This is a serious, expensive safety problem; only one wheel is prematurely trying to stop the vehicle.
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    There are more resources here in Town Hall that might have some help for you. Look in this conference for a topic on ABS brakes, and check into our SUVs conference for active discussions on the Suburban.

    Good luck.

    Pat/Roving Host
  • bfeigebfeige Member Posts: 1
    I have a '97 3/4 ton 'burb. About a year ago my
    mechanic (not a dealer) installed a new proportioning valve on the truck. It made a big
    difference in the trucks stopping ability. The
    brakes still don't feel "right", but I can live
    with them. I was really shocked when the ABS kicked in on a dry, paved road at 40mph. Lucky for me the gate was open on the farm road I was forced to drive on to because the truck didn't slow down enough to follow the sharp curve in the road.

    I've driven this road for over 15 years and never
    had a problem slowing for this curve in any other
    vehicle.
  • sportygirlsportygirl Member Posts: 4
    Hopefully your problem has been fixed by now but I just had to post. I went through a similar problem with my VW New Beetle but it was only 3 months old with 3000 miles. The ABS started kicking in at low speeds but not all the time. They replaced the sensors but that didn't work. After having it in the shop for weeks, they replaced the control unit (the computer that controls the brakes). That finally fixed it. The dealership thought I was crazy until they witnessed it themselves. Good luck.
  • glennyjaglennyja Member Posts: 8
    I own a 1999 Chevrolet, 2 wheel drive, suburban. I have 83,600 miles on the vehicle. My first brake job occurred at 41,000 miles. I'm about to get the second break job. Is there a specific brand of brakes that work best on the suburban? Also, the how many miles should I get on a new set of brakes? I took the suburban to Micas and was quoted $990. Is that too much?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    If you're getting 40K on brakes on a big rig like that, I'd stick to what you have...OEM parts are fine. I think you should shop around carefully for alternatives to the Midas bid and get a written estimate.....perhaps you are being sold more than you need....I know, it's shocking to think a Midas shop would do this.
  • glennyjaglennyja Member Posts: 8
    When I purchased my 1999 Chevrolet Suburban, it came straight from the factory with a seat that shifted and rattled. Chevrolet repaired the seat, through the warranty. Now that I have 83,600 miles on the truck, the seat rattles and shifts again. Has anyone else experienced this problem? If so, how did you resolve it? Any idea how much it costs to repair or replace the seat.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Most upholstery shops can go through a seat and tighten and pad it for around $200.


    Mr. Shiftright
    Host
  • 4x4man4x4man Member Posts: 222
    $990 for a brake job seems a bit extreme to me...
    I don't own a Suburban, but do own a 97 Chevy Silverado EC 5.7l auto 4x4 Z71. I did a brake job on my truck (front) last summer after the truck started shaking with the brakes on while towing my boat. Rotors were warped..anyway went to Checker Auto and they had these Sure Stop brake pads from Raybestos (sp?). Anyway they told me the pads were formulated for towing and decreased the stopping distance. Of course I coughed at the $45 price tag compared to $17 for regular pads, but bought them anyway. I am glad I did, these things make the truck stop on the dime empty and make a huge difference with the boat. I have had them for about 15K miles so far and they are about half worn now. Total price for the front brake job (rears were fine) about $100 with turning the rotors, brake parts cleaner, etc. Anyway did Midas tell you what all needed to be replaced for a $990 brake job?? I agree with Mr Shiftright, shop around for best price, that seems like too much markup for parts and labor....just my $.02

    Bob
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