Toyota Sienna Maintenance and Repair (2003 earlier)

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Comments

  • barbzbarbz Member Posts: 19
    Has anyone received the new letter on the sludge problem from Toyota?

    Has anyone heard when the new parts will be available at the dealers?

    Thank you.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    The Engine Sludge/Oil Gelling--Toyota's Customer Response discussion has the most current news. I don't think there will be any new parts to retrofit into existing Siennas, but the new models may have some engine changes to help delay sludge caused by infrequent oil changes.

    Steve
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  • thewolverinethewolverine Member Posts: 111
    Last thing - I checked where the tape was applied and it's exactly where you specify - I too have the two tacks (out of a possible six I think).

    FYI my other Sienna with sliding doors has seven metal tacks in this piece filling all possible places. That door is power operated while the one with two tacks is not.
  • dardson1dardson1 Member Posts: 696
    I am now the happy owner of a Chevy Tahoe. The doors don't sqeak, nor the brakes, nor the rear hatch, nor anything else. I've not had the need to put electrical tape on one part to keep it from rattling. I'm getting 15+mpg on regular fuel city driving and compared to the 17+mpg in my X Sienna on premium I am actually money ahead. I can't remember a car I've had with such hardware problems as my Sienna. I wrapped tape around the rear chairs, greased the doors on a monthly basis, stuffed foam around the heater cowling and did my best not to rock the driver's seat. I never figured out the rear brake squeak (which was normal according to my service advisor) or the strange glich in my brake pedal which was also consider "normal" by the dealer. I no longer worry about sludge or whether the oil has been changed by the dealer and how often. Whatever it is Toyota used to be, it ain't anymore. I've driven plenty of cars, and I can tell you the Sienna gets a 6 on a scale of 1-10. It has a superior engine/drivetrain (sludge issue aside) but otherwise it is just average.
  • thewolverinethewolverine Member Posts: 111
    Dardson - not sure why you got 17 mpg when I get 23 - 25 mph with both my Siennas - nor do I care.

    No one here claims Siennas are perfect but it's sorta sad you've got nothing better to do. Anyways - you enjoy your tank, we'll enjoy our Toys.

    Jasdmw - Agreed except for the ill will.

    P.S. Deserves no more comment.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Dardson1, you said that 2 weeks ago. Unless you have something new to add, let's please not irritate the "locals". Thanks!

    Steve
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  • jeproxjeprox Member Posts: 466
    thewolverine & jasdmw - the following link will make u both feel better for sure coz it made me feel better! :)


    http://www.alldata.com/TSB/0211_mo.html tahoe

    http://www.alldata.com/TSB/026053_en.html sienna


    they are links for TSB's for 2002 chevy tahoe and 2002 sienna. check out both and you can see that the tahoe have 24 TSB's for 2002 model while sienna 2002 only have 4 TSB's. it doesnt take a genius to figure out which vehicle is better by just looking at the TSB list. we're only 4months into 2002 and tahoe already have 24 TSB's.
    of course this could add later on, but for now - it sure looks like sienna is a winner to me!


    as for dardson1, if u got nothing nice to say for sienna owners, then stay away from this board. look at the links before you start bragging about your tahoe. wait for one year and we'll see how well is your tahoe holding up.

  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Well, I haven't looked at the Tahoe tsbs, but I've seen lots of them for such things as typos in Owner's Manuals and other minor stuff. So a numerical count doesn't mean a whole lot.

    Can we get back to the Sienna please? I already ragged on Dardson1 - don't need you guys egging him on. At least he owned one and isn't the usual basher with nothing "real" to base his opinions on.

    Steve
    Host
    SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
  • jeproxjeprox Member Posts: 466
    true the number of TSB's dont necessarily mean tahoe's are bad but i just thought i'd point it out. :)

    alrighty, no more egging on dardson1 and back to sienna stuff
  • jeproxjeprox Member Posts: 466
    i was inspecting my wheel cylniders last weekend and i noticed a bruise on one of the rubber boot/cap. i tried to order just a wheel cylinder kit and i was told no such thing! i have to buy the whole wheel cylinder at C$63 each!! what a rip-off!

    they're not leaking but i just wanted to replace the bruised rubber cap. guess, i'll just wait when i replace my shoes and replace the cylinders at the same time.
  • jj35jj35 Member Posts: 283
    Jeprox says "if u got nothing nice to say for sienna owners, then stay away from this board".

    I take exception to this statement. This is a Toyota Sienna PROBLEM site! Host, can you please clarify that it IS appropriate to talk about not-so-nice Sienna problems on a PROBLEMS message board?
  • jj35jj35 Member Posts: 283
    I have been having a problem with my AC practically since my Sienna was new (2000). I get a musty mildewy odor coming from the AC system. I have taken the van to my Toyota dealer three times for this problem, and each time they just clean out an area where water has accumulated and apply a heavy dose of deodorant. This works until the moisture builds up again. Well, it is happening again, and I am at about 32,000 miles. Wondering if anyone else has experienced this problem or knows of a better fix (drain holes?). I switched to a new dealer on my last oil change and will be visiting them for an oil change in a few days. I would like to get this problem fixed properly this time. It is very embarassing taking passengers in my van, the smell is so horrible.
  • mrfong1mrfong1 Member Posts: 16
    I read jeprox's messages about a yearly tranmission oil flush or change. I think it is good advice so I borrow a pump from my Dad that is designed to suck the ATF oil out of the dipstick tube. I figure that will get everything out of the torque converter and oil radiator (tow package), I plan to also drain the pan, remove the pan and change the filter. I go to the dealer to get a Transmission filter and a new gasket so I can clean the inside of the pan. The guy at the parts counter laughs at me and says "why dont you just drain it from the pan and refill with a quart or two of tranmission fluid", then he tells me that the filter is just a screen and I just need to clean it, but I really dont because it is designed to go 60,000-100,000 without cleaning. I walked out and thought to myself "why the hell do they insist on flushing the fluid every 15,000 and charge me $169 every time I go in for service if all it takes is a simple drain and fill!
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    If you have problems with your van, this is the place to seek solutions. (except sludge - there's a whole topic dedicated to that issue). If someone just wants to vent, there's not much the other owners or Cliffy1 can do to help.

    Steve
    Host
    SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
  • pjksrpjksr Member Posts: 111
    MrFong: That's the question. There are two sides to the answer:

    1) Drain and fill removes only 5 of about 9 quarts of ATF.

    2) Flush claims to remove all ATF, so you get a total "change."

    Now, I agree a total flush would seem best. But why wouldn't, say, three drain/fills in 5000 miles be nearly equivalent and a lot less expensive? If anyone argues that there's gunk stuck in the torque converter, wouldn't normal fluid flow wash this gunk into the pan/screen?

    Whatever you decide, it IS important to keep your ATF in good condition, IMHO. And dropping the pan after about 60,000 miles should be routine maintenance.

    BTW, that oil extractor following the dipstick merely would suck the ATF from your pan, equilvalent to a drain/fill.
  • jeproxjeprox Member Posts: 466
    to properly flush your tranny, you must use a tranny fluid flusher. sucking the fluid from the dipstick tube is not good enough.

    the flusher is pressurized. it sucks the fluid out and injects/fills new fluid at the same time. since it's pressurized, it gets rid of any dirt in the line, cooler, etc. much like a blood transfusion. some garage actually uses a cleaning solution and once the flush is done, they fill up with new fluid.

    i dont have the proper equipment so i'm letting the dealer do the flush for me. in my opinion, it's worth it to have the flush done. i can't remember the exact numbers, i think it gets done every 48,000kms. check your manual or ask your dealer. you normally do a drain/fill every x-number of miles/kilometers or months and a flush for every x-number of miles/kilometers or months.
  • noelbongnoelbong Member Posts: 41
    I remember reading about this problem while ago but I didn't have the problem so didn't pay much attention to it. I brought the van to an independant shop suspecting the pads might be worn out. I was told that I still had 80% pad life left. But the squeal is getting on my nerves everytime I back up plus it might not be good for the rotors. Did anyone have this problem?
  • jeproxjeprox Member Posts: 466
    what you have is the famous sienna brake squeal! :)

    strange that you have when u back up and not when you coast to a full stop. anyways, you can try replacing your shoes/pads but it would be a waste of money coz you have plenty left to be used. some people tried other brands of shoes/pads or have the drums/disc machined.

    i've had mine since day 1. i usually remove my drums at least twice a year and clean everything and it's good for a few months with no squeals. that's about it.
  • piusjudepiusjude Member Posts: 12
    My 1998 Sienna's indicator light has been acting up recently. It has not been showing up on the panel even I do not have my seatbelt on. There were times that it came ON when I had my seatbelt on. Does anyone in this board had any experience like this? Thanks for any help.
  • jptjpt Member Posts: 7
    I have the same problem. About 2 years ago, it started working backwards and about 6 months ago, it quit altogether. At my last oil change, I asked the dealer to check it out and my bill says they did (no charge) but gives no cause and it still doesn't work. Anyone else?
  • bob57bob57 Member Posts: 302
    Same problem - it's the sensor (?) (don't remember exactly what they said as to the name) under the cover at the bottom of the seat belt mechanism but the service guy knew immediately. Took them about 30~45 minutes to replace it under warranty. Looks like a common failure item.
    Works fine now.
  • piusjudepiusjude Member Posts: 12
    Thanks for the reply....

    I had another problem that just started a little while ago. I was driving on the street, stopped and the engine turned off. I just cranked it up and kept on going. When I got home, turn the engine OFF and cranked it up again...a strange short humming sound comes out after starting the engine...as if , it is taking a deep breath or something to that effect. Anyone with similar experience? Thanks for any opinion or reply.
  • eomckameyeomckamey Member Posts: 26
    I know that Toyota Service Depts. will flush the cooling system but I am considering using a "Flush 'N Fill Kit" (Prestone used to sell one). With such a flush T, inserted in the heater inlet hose the entire cooling system is back flushed.

    Has anyone installed such a flushing T on their Sienna? Any problems encountered?

    Thanks!
  • headers8headers8 Member Posts: 23
    Obviously, no matter how careful a driver you are, you could still end up in an accident.

    The other day, my 02 Sienna CE was rear-ended. I was stationary with my foot on the brake, waiting to turn a corner, when a 97 Rav 4 bumped my rear. The impact was quite strong, but not enough to do a big damage on my bumper. It held up well and there was only a slight dent on it. I already had the repair done on it by the dealer who informed me that they did not note any serious structural damage on it or the chassis/body, so there was no need to replace it.

    I am curious to know if the rear ender might have caused any damage to my tranny, brakes, steering, wheel alignment (my front wheels were positioned to turn) or others.
  • jeproxjeprox Member Posts: 466
    thats too bad you got hit. i guess just be thankful you no one got hurt.

    i dont think there would be any damage to your brakes, steering or wheel alignment unless you hit something in the front (another car, sidewalk, etc.). if you didnt hit anything, chances that something got damaged would be slim.
  • jnash2jnash2 Member Posts: 31
    Any one know of a forum for Sienna problems?
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Except for the odd thread about counting TSB's, this is the place.

    Steve
    Host
    SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
  • wishwewereinvtwishwewereinvt Member Posts: 7
    Does anyone out there have experience with changing a fuel filter on a '98. I got the top bolt off but am having trouble with the bolt that goes into the filter. It just spins on the fuel line and gets stuck when I try to loosen it. (bum threads maybe).

    Paul
  • jeproxjeprox Member Posts: 466
    i havent change my fuel filter but by reading what you described, it may have the type where the bolt stays on the fuel line.

    there are types where you can remove the bolt completely and there are types where the bolt stays and just spins, like u described.

    my opinion is that if u can remove the whole filter, then dont worry about the bolt that spins. remove the filter and install new one and torque it down. if u dont have any leaks then - u did it right!

    goodluck.
  • piusjudepiusjude Member Posts: 12
    I just purchased one recently with 80,000 miles on it. With a little paranoia, since I didn't know the real history of the car maintenance, I just took it at the dealership for an engine flush. Not bad for $100.00 which includes a change oil and a new filter. The service guy said that they only encountered two sludge problems, both on V-6 Camry.

    I just noticed a humming noise every time I start the engine. It is more distinct or audible if I just turn the ignition ON. The service guy told me that it is normal noise due to ABS motor. I have not noticed it before, maybe because I always have the radio ON on the start up. Not familiar yet with my vehicle...Is it really a normal noise? Any opinions will be greatly appreciated.
  • jeproxjeprox Member Posts: 466
    yes, that humming sound is really your ABS doing its system check. it really is a normal sound for the sienna. each time you turn on your ignition, you will hear this loud humming sound.

    if you stepped on the brakes then start, you wont hear this sound but as soon as you let go of your brake pedal, you will hear it.
  • wishwewereinvtwishwewereinvt Member Posts: 7
    thanks jeprox,

    that's the problem i'm having: the nut that stays on the fuel line just spins with the filter. when i try to unloosen the filter from the fuel line nut using 2 wrenches working in opposite directions, it gets tight but both nut and filter spin on the fuel line. the dealership tells me it might just be a bum thread but i'm afraid to force it loose for fear of breaking something. should i just "force" it?

    paul
  • jeproxjeprox Member Posts: 466
    since i havent change mine so i DONT recommend u forcing it as it may damage your bolt or the gas line.

    i looked at my shop manual and the picture shows that the bolt can be separated from the filter and gas line but it didnt give any instructions of how to change filters. it just shows pictures. there's some kind of washer between bolt and fuel line.

    u may wanna check with a local shop again or another dealer and see what they say.

    sorry, cant help you very much. :(
  • piusjudepiusjude Member Posts: 12
    Thanks a lot for your reply...

    Are you, by any chance a Fil? Just curious, because of the screen name.
  • jeproxjeprox Member Posts: 466
    no i'm not fil. i'm chin-fil and i can speak tagalog fluently.

    i looked at the diagram again for you.
    the top union bolt definitely comes off and the fuel filter have a nut welded on the top. so top will go like this: welded nut, washer, fuel line, washer again, u-shape lock for the fuel line and the union bolt on top.

    i also looked at my filter just a few mins ago and the bolt on top should definitely come off.

    goodluck

    bottom of filter also have a welded nut on the filter. unscrew the bottom fuel line and you're all set.
  • ibjo2ibjo2 Member Posts: 1
    The tires on our 2000 sienna had uneven tire wear and they had to be replaced at 26000 miles. I was told the alignment was bad. The transmission was replaced on this van at 14000 miles. I wonder if the replacement of transmission had anything to do with the vans alignment? The tires were rotated at the dealer every 5000 miles. No one said it needed alignment or the tires are wearing out due to bad alignment? Not too happy with this van!
  • yamanyaman Member Posts: 113
    We have 32k on our tires and they are looking pretty thread bare.Anyone have an idea how long original tires are supposed to last? Our previous 2 vans ( Windstar and Previa) we had to replace the tires around the low 30's as well.So is ibjo's experience and mine the norm ?
  • kw6kw6 Member Posts: 26
    Had to replace mine at 36K, same story, very uneven tire wear. The independent tire shop said it was a "toeing" problem: they were toed IN too far. The new set are just fine after 10K.
  • jeproxjeprox Member Posts: 466
    the original dunlop tires are not good at all! traction is bad and they normally up to (approx.) 50,000+kms. depending on your driving habits too.
  • deepandeepan Member Posts: 342
    Our 2000 sienna (15inch)is getting close to 50k and the dunlops need to be replaced during the summer. Any suggestions what type of tire i should look at.
    I have BF goodrich on a older camry which look good. I live in a fairly cold climate (ottawa) and want to go with all seasons.
  • jeproxjeprox Member Posts: 466
    i have michelin from sears right now. they are great and i recommend michelin to anyone who wants to buy tires. they cost a big more but they're worth it!
  • mrfong1mrfong1 Member Posts: 16
    I had the Firestones on my 2000XLE. While changing the oil at around 30K miles I noticed that one of the tires had a split in it and the radial was exposed. This was around the time of the Firestone recalls so rather than taking a chance I just replaced all of my tires. I went with Michelin, the Costco version of the "X one", cost around $80/tire. MUCH smoother ride, and better handling/tracktion. So far the tread wear seems much more even and there is no longer any pull to the left. I agree with jeprox, they cost more but it was worth it.
  • tomeboytomeboy Member Posts: 2
    We have a 02 le , almost time to change oil at 3k. I was planning on using mobil 1. Is this to soon to go synthetic or should I use dino oil for a few more changes to break in engine more?
    We love the van!!
  • thewolverinethewolverine Member Posts: 111
    You've done what I've decided to do this fall as I'm nearing 30k on both my Vans.

    How do the Michelins handle in the snow and rain?
  • thewolverinethewolverine Member Posts: 111
    I started at 15K after using up the free oil changes from the dealer.

    Very happy with the Mobil 1 10w-30 AND ATF - wish I'd done it sooner like you're considering.

    Lets me go 5K without worrying about sludge although I regularly drive lots of highway miles which don't fall into the severe service category.

    Enjoy your van!
  • mrfong1mrfong1 Member Posts: 16
    I've driven on them for 1 winter (rain only) and they handle great, a big difference from the Firestones. I cannot comment on the snow, although I have been to Lake Tahoe 2x this past winter, and there was lots of snow on the ground, I had cables on my tires.
  • jasdmwjasdmw Member Posts: 118
    I've had these tires on my van for about 12000 KM now. They are great in any weather. We had a realatively light winter this year, but one day we had a significant snowfall. Drove home on the QEW (6 lane divided highway) with about 4" of new snow cover. Had no difficulty controlling the van at speeds to 60 KM/Hr. Other vehicles were spun out all over the place. Traction control and VSC did help, though. Had a heavy rainfall earlier this week. Was travelling @ 125KM/Hr with cruise on and hit a larger than expected puddle. Cruise automatically came off and van wobbled a bit, but never lost footing. I put that to the tires as well.

    However, am having difficulty with balance. Seems to be out just a hair, most noticeable above 130KM/Hr. Can feel a slight shake through the steering wheel and the rest of the chassis (seats,etc). Have had them re-balanced twice now and will have it done again next week.

    Note that a local tire chain offered these for a better price than Costco. Shop around for the best deal in your area.

    PS, this sounds more like general banter than trouble. Should we be posting in the trouble thread or would this be better discussed in the non-trouble thread?
  • lunarmistlunarmist Member Posts: 41
    JEPROX, which service manual would you recommend for doing "basic" maintenance on the 2002 SIENNAs:
    Vol #1 RM871-U1 (Diagnostics ??) or Vol #2 RM871-U2 (Engine, body, chassis ??)
  • jeproxjeprox Member Posts: 466
    i'll have to check the number again when i get home tonight and post the part number(s).
    they have one for maintenance, transmission and another one that i cant remember.

    my van is a 1999 model and the manual i have covers 1998 to 1999. i cant remember if it covers 2000. i know definitely it doesnt cover 2001 or 2002 coz VVT-i started with 2001 models and my manual doesnt cover VVT-i.
  • deepandeepan Member Posts: 342
    I was going through some tire sites and am a bit confused. How are minivans classed. Passenger car or light truck

    talking to the local tire guy he was saying the original Dunlops rides softer than the X1. I am looking for a tire that will last a while, providing decent traction, quiet comfortable ride. Folks who have X1 could you tell me whether the above statement is true for the X1. I am not looking at performance (aint taking corners at high speed etc...) here].Price quotedwas about $140 installed Can$. thank you.
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