The cost of repairs was not really my concern. It was the comment from the collision manager about the RAV being so cheaply made and not a safe vehicle.
I have an issue with the RS3200/keyless entry for my RAV4. There are times that I do not want the headlights to stay on for 30 seconds but I can't figure out if there is a way to selectively turn that feature off. I can select the chirping and alarms (valet) but not the lights apparently. Does anyone know how?
Also, is there a way to turn the clock light up higher so I can see it? I've got the interior lights turned up as high as they can go.
I just had the same problem. With the 2004 RAV, you just hold in the trip reset button, and then turn the ignition to ON...you'll see dashes and when they disappear, the light goes off. But I'm sure you figured it out already, since your message was from almost 2 years ago! I just wanted to post this, since I couldn't find anything. I had to figure it out myself!!!
I have a 2000 RAV4 AWD with 42000 miles on it. My check engine light came on twice a couple of months back and then went away by itself after a bit of driving. I assumed it was because of the Gas cap not being tightened.
It came on again today so I used a ODBC-2 scanner and got code 1130 which means "Air fuel Sensor Circuit Range/Performance". The problem is that only cars with California Emmission requirements had the Air Fuel Sensor. The non California Emission cars came with the Heated Oxygen Sensor. Before, I order the part from the dealer, I would like to know if the car had the California Emmission system. The car was sold new in Maryland. Is there anyway to find out from the VIN number?
I checked the crash test ratings, Why dosn't it give any crash test from the REAR? I would be especially concerned about being hit from the REAR while I was driving a car that the manufacturer put NO REAR BUMPER on.
I just purchased a 2005 Rav4 L also missing it's spare tire cover and wondered if you were successful? The dealer quoted me $425 and website called "discount toyota parts" out of Texas is offering one for $287 plus $30 shipping for part number 64771-4200-CO. They don't have pictures on their site, so I'm expecting a fax to confirm itt's the right part. Does anyone have any better ideas for me?
Unless you are set on having an original hard cover, you might wanna try this:
I picked up a nice plain black vinyl spare cover at my local auto parts store (they ordered it, it took 2-3 days). Cost me about $30, and it looks good (no logos, etc).
However, lately I've gone with no cover at all. I just like the look.
I live in NJ and order parts for both my Toyota vehicles from Grapewine toyota of texas. They have great prices compred to my local dealer even after including the shipping costs.
We are looking at buying a Rav 4 or a midsize sedan. I am just worried about SUV safety. I have heard that small suv's can rollover in accients and there are more accident deaths in small suv's. Can any of you expand on this or is this false? I am thinking the toyota would be very safe. Guess I am leaning more towards a sedan for safety but I love the Rav 4.
I purchased the 2004 Rav 4 for my wife, we reside near Buffalo NY and the car has performed flawlessly. It has no problems in the snow. I have an occasional hesitation problem which has been to the dealer for. All scnas are normal so I suspect that it is a software issue that we owners must diligently persue Toyota to fix it. Roll over occur from unsafe drivers doing unsafe maneuvers and driving too fast pushing the envelope. The RAV in my opinion gave me the best bang for our money we compared too many other in its class. If you want to fly get an airplane. If you want to go 4 wheeling off road get a tank. We took almost a year to decide. Buy a Rav and drive it like a sane person and you will be very happy.
I just bought the 2005 Black hard shell Spare Tire Cover from Toyota of Grapevine, TX. They have the best prices. I got this recommendation in this forum. I paid $250 which included shipping to the East Coast - the cheapest I could find anywhere. They shipped it to me . . . it looks fantastic. I only needed the exterior high gloss shell. The main bracket was attached and finne. Good luck.
We have high desert roads like that here that are largely impassable even with 4WD rigs when it rains. But in the mountains, the roadbeds are often rocky (like the roads around Tellico) and they just get wet without much traction loss or hidden deep holes.
The other day I watched a 1962 movie made to lobby for improving the local ski road; it was pretty fun to see all the late 50's/early 60's cars and buses trying to navigate up a muddy, snowy road.
I am trying to get a better sense of the pricing of my 98' RAV4. I tried all source of used car info like kbb and edmund but the price seems way lower than what everybody is selling. If my car is in GREAT condition (white on Silver, new breaks, oil change up-to-date), Low Milage (80,000), with a nice looking Jaos roof rack.
Should I try asking $8,500 for it??? Any response will be appreciated.
After I removed the OEM 2004 RAV4 L radio/CD/Tape and reconnected it back, the steering wheel audio controls no longer working and not lighting up. (the buttons on the radio are working fine and the radio is working OK). It is just the steering wheel audio controls are not working. I've checked and confirmed all plugs are reconnected the way before I disconnected them. And they are plugged in tightly. I removed the radio by removing the center console, pulled the radio half way out and disconnected the antenna wire, and two other plugs which was connected to the back of the radio. Do I need to reprogram the steering wheel audio controls in order to make it work again. I've searched through the web for 4 hours, but did not find the answer. Please help.
I bought my base 5 speed brand new for my courier job. It is a flawless performer to say the least. Everyday I jump into this unit I feel proud to own it because it feels like such a quality machine. I am thinking of trading it though for a Mazda Miata. No. The Mazda will not be used in the courier business, but will sort of a retirement unit for me. Just a question for the group. How much of a market do you think I will have for a unit with 204,000 km on it? The body is in excellent condition and the back seats are like new since I have never used them. I took them out at purchase. I was talking to a dealer about trade in values, etc. And, here is what he said. Just find a site like Buy and Sell.com and look at the prices. Add all of the prices up and divide by the number of units that I am looking at the attain an average price. Here in the Vancouver market many of these units are selling for over 20,000 dollars. They all have packages and auto of course, but I took this detail into account. Anyhow, then what you do is to subtract about 20% because of the high mileage to get a value for the unit. So, that is kind of interesting. I know it is worth something because it looks and drives like brand new, especially with the new tires I just bought.
I have a 1998 Rav 4 4 cylinder. I love it. However it recently started cutting out while I'm driving. It doesn't stall but it acts like it isn't getting the gas. I have taken it to my mechanic and the Toyota dealer. Both have put it on computers and road tested it. They can't find anything wrong with it. I recently had it tuned up with lots of new stuff. That was not the problem. My mileage has dropped from 24 mpg to 16 mpg. Not acceptable. When it slows down I pump the heck out of it and after a few seconds it zooms ahead. Has anyone had a similar problem? How was it resolved?
I had it tuned up after I had the problem. My mechanic thought that might be the problem. It hadn't been tuned up in a while and needed new plugs, etc.
I have the exact same problem with my 98. I tried new plugs and pcv valve with no success. My mechanic can't find anything wrong. I'm thinking of changing the wires, rotor, cap & fuel filter. Have you tried that?
I know he put in new plugs and plug wires, fuel filter, air filter and a battery cable. There were a couple of other things. Parts came to $222. I don't remember seeing anything about a rotor cap. (Just checked the bill.) New PCV valve and gas treatment were the other two things. His computer printout was the same as the dealers which showed nothing wrong.
how do you take the inside panel off so i can regrease the latches. I'm in alaska and it is freezing here and i never had to take the panel off before. it's a 98 rav4
My 98 RAV is doing this. Usually when I have coasted or idled, as at an intersection or stop light, then try to accelerate. There is nothing there, it sputters, as no fuel, water in gas, etc. I pump like crazy and it revs out of it, sometimes making a popping, banging or slight backfiring sound before it catches and takes off. This very dangerous and I am afraid of getting stalled in an intersection.
My car just had a full 80,000 mile service by the worlds best mechanic ( very thorough, knowledgeable) but the problem continued. He replaced the throttle plate. Problem continued. My "check engine" light came on yesterday for the first time in all this, but it was off again by the time he looked at. Grrrr! He is frustrated, feels it should be the fuel pump, but that checks out fine.
I just bought my first Rav 4 to replace (sadly) my aging 86 740 volvo wagon. 120,000 miles,auto, one owner, regularly serviced at recommended intervals, lived outdoors always, cat converter replaced at 60,000, driven primarily highway in Northern Ca....so not a lot of snow or winter conditions. I will need to replace tires soon. Can anyone recommend a tire that will offer "quiet" sure footed ride? Also looking for any maintenance tips that will help me get to know my new car at this point in its life. Anything I should immediately have checked, etc?
you might want to check and see if there are "touring tires" for the RAV. My husband just bought these for his Camry and the difference is dramatic- very quiet. A bonus - they are so good in snow that he has not had to go through the hassel of changing to studded snows, as he always had to do before.
Thank you for your reply about the touring tires. Replaced shocks and struts which brought some bounce back into the ride. The ride is bouncy here anyway on San Francisco's tattered streets. Looking at springing for Michelin Primacy MXV4, which we bought last year for our Volvo Wagon. Huge improvement in ride comfort and handling on that car. Rav4 has an intermittent jiggling/rattling sound coming from about where the dash meets the windshield that I can not figure out. Anyone have a similar problem?
Good morning. Is here owner of 02. - 05. automat. 2.0 petrol or lpg? What is your consumption? What is your experience? (shifting, acceleracion, driving properties,crankiness...)
I have a 2004 RAV4 which the drivers side window came out of the regulator. A new regulator was purchased and replaced as the little plastic clip had broken and I could not buy another one without buying the whole regulator.
A week after the regulator was replaced the window bracket became dislodged from the glass window. I have had glued back on with varying glass glues, but it keeps coming off again.
There has to be away to reglue the bracket back onto the window without having to buy a new window from Toyota (as suggested by Toyota), so that it stays on and does not make the window come out of the regulator. These brackets have initially been glued on so there must be a way to do it again.
Has anyone else had this problem and successfully repaired it?
I have a couple of I am sure unrelated problems. My wife has a 1997 Rav and the drivers side brake light will not work. I have replaced the bulb and it still does not work. The second issue is the drivers side headlight. It works fine on high beam, but when on low beam the light does not work until you get out and whack it. Then it works fine.
This has been a GREAT car ... maybe even as good as my Echo.
Just saw this old post from you and since I am looking at a 1999 Rav4 (like the old one much better than the new ones) as a second car, I was wondering how yours worked out. Some say the engine is so weak on those, but thought I'd get another opinion. With the gas prices, etc, I thought it would be worth a try. Overall, what are your biggest gripes?
My 1999 RAV4 with the 4 cylinder engine will downshift when going uphill with the cruise control on but does not seem to gain enough speed to upshift back into 4th gear when the road levels out. Sometimes it will even downshift on a level road or slight downhill grade. Then it keeps on revving but does not return to a higher gear. Anybody have this problem or know the solution?
we recently bought a 2003 Toyota Rav4 with a 2.0. It had some issues when we bought it but we hope we can fix them. We changed the spark plugs and the coils on the spark plugs. Now when we hook it up to the diagnosic test it says AIR/FLUID SENSOR HEATER RESPONSE MALFUNCTION, AND AIR FLUID SENSOR HEATER CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION. Any ideas on what might fix this before we dump a lot of money into it?
Comments
But they don't.
RAV on.
-ss4
Also, is there a way to turn the clock light up higher so I can see it? I've got the interior lights turned up as high as they can go.
http://www.internetautoguide.com/crash-tests/09-int/2006/toyota/rav4/index.html
I have a 2000 RAV4 AWD with 42000 miles on it. My check engine light came on twice a couple of months back and then went away by itself after a bit of driving. I assumed it was because of the Gas cap not being tightened.
It came on again today so I used a ODBC-2 scanner and got code 1130 which means "Air fuel Sensor Circuit Range/Performance". The problem is that only cars with California Emmission requirements had the Air Fuel Sensor. The non California Emission cars came with the Heated Oxygen Sensor. Before, I order the part from the dealer, I would like to know if the car had the California Emmission system. The car was sold new in Maryland. Is there anyway to find out from the VIN number?
Another option is donation, trade-in is not an option, the dealer offered $400.
Thanks, I need your opinions.
Toyota RAV4
tidester, host
I picked up a nice plain black vinyl spare cover at my local auto parts store (they ordered it, it took 2-3 days).
Cost me about $30, and it looks good (no logos, etc).
However, lately I've gone with no cover at all.
I just like the look.
-ss4
The other day I watched a 1962 movie made to lobby for improving the local ski road; it was pretty fun to see all the late 50's/early 60's cars and buses trying to navigate up a muddy, snowy road.
I am trying to get a better sense of the pricing of my 98' RAV4.
I tried all source of used car info like kbb and edmund but the price seems way lower than what everybody is selling. If my car is in GREAT condition (white on Silver, new breaks, oil change up-to-date), Low Milage (80,000), with a nice looking Jaos roof rack.
Should I try asking $8,500 for it???
Any response will be appreciated.
Thanks...
I've checked and confirmed all plugs are reconnected the way before I disconnected them. And they are plugged in tightly.
I removed the radio by removing the center console, pulled the radio half way out and disconnected the antenna wire, and two other plugs which was connected to the back of the radio.
Do I need to reprogram the steering wheel audio controls in order to make it work again.
I've searched through the web for 4 hours, but did not find the answer.
Please help.
thank you
My car just had a full 80,000 mile service by the worlds best mechanic ( very thorough, knowledgeable) but the problem continued. He replaced the throttle plate. Problem continued. My "check engine" light came on yesterday for the first time in all this, but it was off again by the time he looked at. Grrrr! He is frustrated, feels it should be the fuel pump, but that checks out fine.
120,000 miles,auto, one owner, regularly serviced at recommended intervals, lived outdoors always, cat converter replaced at 60,000, driven primarily highway in Northern Ca....so not a lot of snow or winter conditions.
I will need to replace tires soon.
Can anyone recommend a tire that will offer "quiet" sure footed ride?
Also looking for any maintenance tips that will help me get to know my new car at this point in its life. Anything I should immediately have checked, etc?
Road noise is my only complaint about the RAV
Replaced shocks and struts which brought some bounce back into the ride.
The ride is bouncy here anyway on San Francisco's tattered streets.
Looking at springing for Michelin Primacy MXV4, which we bought last year for our Volvo Wagon. Huge improvement in ride comfort and handling on that car.
Rav4 has an intermittent jiggling/rattling sound coming from about where the dash meets the windshield that I can not figure out. Anyone have a similar problem?
Is here owner of 02. - 05. automat. 2.0 petrol or lpg? What is your consumption? What is your experience? (shifting, acceleracion, driving properties,crankiness...)
A week after the regulator was replaced the window bracket became dislodged from the glass window. I have had glued back on with varying glass glues, but it keeps coming off again.
There has to be away to reglue the bracket back onto the window without having to buy a new window from Toyota (as suggested by Toyota), so that it stays on and does not make the window come out of the regulator. These brackets have initially been glued on so there must be a way to do it again.
Has anyone else had this problem and successfully repaired it?
If you could "scar" up the glass surface somehow (Kein Multimaster..??) and then use a good epoxy....??
This has been a GREAT car ... maybe even as good as my Echo.
Any ideas.
Thanks
Just saw this old post from you and since I am looking at a 1999 Rav4 (like the old one much better than the new ones) as a second car, I was wondering how yours worked out. Some say the engine is so weak on those, but thought I'd get another opinion. With the gas prices, etc, I thought it would be worth a try. Overall, what are your biggest gripes?
Patty