Isuzu Owners Maintenance and Repair

zutrooper

FYI, I removed gas cap for 50 miles. No CEL. DAMN! Mark P

paisan

What happens is that when you hit between 1/2 and 1/4 of a tank, the ECU will re-run the test, when it does this if the gas cap is now tight, it will go off.

-mike

paisan

I believe it's about $100-$150 it's a cable that goes into your OBDII socket and will tell you the codes coming off the computer (as well as other data) Only bad thing is that I don't think it can store the data, only show it on screen and you can use it to reset the CELs.

-mike

sbcooke

I got a set of GM generic pop in clips at autozone for the flaps in the wheel well. Perfect fit.

I also got a fuse kit for add-on accessories. I haven't used it yet, but it seems like the easiest way to wire up my CB, just pop it in a 10 AMP fuse, and then you can run both off the same connector. It provides a hot output for whatever new accessory you are putting in.

They also had computers there for reading engine codes, all for under $50. I didn't see any Isuzu specific they had several GM types, but I also didn't really look too hard.

savvas_e

Bluedevils -

www.auterraweb.com is where you find it. You can downlad the software and run it in demo mode so you can see what it's capable of.

Don't forget to get the Isuzu dtc database.

Regards,
Savvas

bluedevils

I made an appointment for a trans 'tuneup' at our local Multistate Transmission shop. I don't know if this is a national chain - anybody have any thoughts on Multistate?

For our 98 Trooper, the charge is $89.95 for changing the filter, fluid, and gasket, performing a leak test, and a road test. Does 90 bucks for this seem reasonable? I didn't think to ask if they drop the pan as part of this service. I seem to recall folks mentioning here that dropping the pan is a good idea?

bluedevils

paisan, thanks for the explanation. I'm still above 1/2 tank, so hopefully once the tank reaches 1/2-1/4 remaining, the CEL will go off.

I'm gonna try to stop at AutoZone today and check out their free CEL diagnostic service and see what it's all about.

keepontroopin

if they are going to change the filter. The filter is inside the tranny. $90 bucks sounds great if you are sure they are a quality shop. I had mine done at the dealer two weeks ago and they charged me $220 so your $90 dollar price sounds good to me as long as you know the guys working on your Trooper are trust worthy. i didn't know of a good tranny shop in my town so i took it to the dealer and they charged me out the Whazooo but I have piece of mind that it was done correctly. Just my 2cents.

bluedevils

I don't know this shop at all, but if they are a shop specializing in transmission work, I gotta believe they know how to drop the pan, change the gasket and filter, and replace the fluid.

I can appreciate the peace of mind that comes with having the service performed by the dealer, but 220 bucks for trans service sounds outrageous. 90 bucks is so much less that I'm almost worried about it being TOO cheap. However, I think the 220 is a little out of whack even for dealer service. I thought someone - maybe duktrooper - mentioned a while back that his trans service was $150 at the dealer. That would make $90 seem reasonable and not 'too good to be true.'

paisan

My dealer wants $220 also. I'm gonna find a good local shop to do mine as well.

-mike

sbcooke

How do you know if you need this service? I had my fluid changed, but didn't really even think about a filter replacement? I wonder if this happened at the same time?

paisan

My guess is that wait til the next 20K fluid change on the AT to do the filter. I think it's actually a metal mesh that they empty out, not a replaceable filter.

-mike

troop2shos

$89.95 only for a filter change sounds reasonable. The minimum for a tranny flush is around $79.95 - even from the independents. Pulling the pan to replace the filter adds a lot more labor hours & $200+ from the dealer doesn't seem out of line for a complete service (flush & filter). A tranny flush only on my Gen III SHO is about $129 from the dealer using Mercon V.
Most car manufacturers discovered some time ago that a complete exchange to new fluid in a flush was much more beneficial than just doing a filter change & is generally what they recommend. As long as the filter doesn't get sufficient dirt loading to reduce the flow rate, a filter change wouldn't be necessary in normal service for some time, IMO. As the filter traps more "dirt", the filtration efficiency actually improves up to its limits / dirt loading capacity (larger micron holes in the filter media are plugged-up first).

paisan

There is and probably will always be a debate, but a lot of people I speak to say not to get a flush, but to do a drain and fill more often so as to "naturally" get the fluid out. The flushers can harm the fins in the torque converter.

-mike

troop2shos

The equipment I've seen used are low pressure units to exchange the fluid - not a high pressure flush. There is no way to completely get the old fluid out of the torque converter other than a "flush" - by equipment or by running the engine to engage the TC. I agree that more frequent drain & fill intervals would do a good job to rejuvenate the system if the old tranny fluid is in good shape & not burned. Attempting to backflush the system & filter could cause problems.

savvas_e

A transmission service at the dealer for my car cost me $130 last March.

The car only had 40,000km but it is classified as being in severe service because of lots of repeated short trips.

bluedevils

The A/T fluid I've drained on previous partial drains seemed to be in fine condition. I got only about 2 quarts each time, though-- have done it 3 times - wasn't moving through the gears as fluid drained since I thought I was changing the transfer case!

Anyway, at almost 66,000 miles it seemed like a good maintenance item for our Trooper. However, I've heard many folks advocate NEVER touching the transmission fluid, especially after the vehicle is pretty old and/or has lots of miles. I don't know the rationale - perhaps the risk of stirring up contaminants or burned fluid or other gunk (that's a technical term) when doing a flush?

I need to remember to ask the shop to confirm that they drop the pan, explain HOW their procedure is done (high-speed flush, low-speed flush, etc.), clarify what % of fluid is removed, clarify whether the filter is cleaned (i.e. metal mesh) or replaced, state their thoughts on using synthetic ATF, and the cost difference if I supply my own Mobil 1 ATF (I'm considering it).

In my area, price for a trans flush at a quickie lube shop starts around $50-60.

bluedevils

I was in and out in less than 5 minutes! No charge! I highly recommend this route as a starting point for diagnosing a Check Engine light (CEL).

Lady hooked up scan tool to Troop, pulled 2 codes, and cleared them which caused the CEL to go off. She said the 2 codes were the same, but I was thinking she may have had trouble getting the 2nd code to display on the scan tool. The code I got was:

P1441. Scan tool said it was a dealer-specific DTC (diagnostic trouble code). The computer in the store said the code was "evaporative emission (EVAP) system flow during non-purge Chevrolet only."

This sounds consistent with not tightening gas cap enough. Hopefully, that was the cause of the CEL. We'll see if the CEL returns. Hopefully not.

paisan

Same one I got on mine when he used the palm pilot.

It was teh gas cap on mine.

-mike

savvas_e

That Autozone service sounds excellent. I wish someone would do that here.

BTW, Mike.... that OBDII connector I asked you about before. Doesn't seem to be in the same location on the RHD Jackaroos as it is on the LHD Troopers. I'm none the wiser. Can't find it anywhere, on the left or right of the car. Inside the car or under the bonnet.

paisan

Snap a pic of it for you when I'm back with my Trooper in a week and a 1/2.

-mike

breakor

I had been curious about Auto Zone's free service. I am glad to hear it actually works.

FWIW here is an online listing of Isuzu codes -

http://www.batauto.com/isuzu/iszuobd2.html

Over in the other forum section you asked a question about maufacturers withholding codes here is an article on that. Basically they are trying to keep some OBDII diagnostic codes secret so their dealers can get more shop business.

 http://www.cnn.com/2002/TECH/ptech/06/24/diagnosing.cars.ap/index.html

ces4

I'm leasing a 99 LS Rodeo and have 37,000 miles. Five year lease. Two weeks ago the ABS came on and off and the AC stop working properly. Called the closest Isuzu dealer (one hour away) and he said my 3 years warranty ran out on Feb. 2002. Therefore, I decided to take it to the local Honda dealer. ABS fixed about $200. AC they replaced a sensor and something else $700. Wife picked up the truck AC not working yet. Took back to shop, now they said that because of the new sensor it blow out the compressor. Parts along for the repair $950. How come a new sensor blow out the compressor? Does this sound right?

I read on other board SUV/Isuzu Rodeo message # 692 around 6/12/02 that Isuzu will upgrade ABS. Is this correct? If it is, can I get it done after I took the car to a non-Isuzu dealer to work on it? If I can do it, how do I go about it?

dielectric7bb

sounds like a rip to me. If they replaced my AC compressor then maybe that would be around 700 dollars, but not for a sensor.

Take the car to an Isuzu dealer to do the ABS upgrade. Shouldn't be any harder than that.

breakor

Depending on what the "something else" was maybe $700 was ok but not knowing the details it sure sounds high.

As to a new sensor blowing out the condensor, get that in writing and take them to court. I know I have never owned a vehicle that has a sensor that is supposed to check for something and then blow the compressor if certain conditions are met. Sounds like maybe they put in the wrong sensor. In any event, my take is that the rest of the repair is on them.

paisan

3/50K bumper to bumper

Unfortunately, you do seem to fall outside this realm. $700 could or could not be reasonable depending on what the "other stuff" is.

$950 seems a bit high for parts of the AC system.

Bring your truck to an Isuzu dealer for the upgrade on the ABS. But call to make sure they have the parts before bringing it in.

-mike

bluedevils

What did I miss? I'm not sure what you guys are talking about.

michtiff

Has anyone dealt with thier power drive activating without depressing the button? My Trooper is a 2000 w/ 34,000m. The power drive light is on (just appeared out of nowhere one day)and it drives like it is but I never pressed the button to activate it. I have tried pressing the button on and off with no cnange. I would bring it to the dealer right away but I will have to drive about 200 miles so I thought I would try and find out what to expect first and see if there is a simple solution.

calf1

I normally do not drive too fast, but the other day when I went over 80 mph, the 99 trooper starting vibrating violently, not the steering wheel, but feel like the whole car is shaking, slowing down below 80 mph stops the shake, I don't remember the truck doing this when new. I have 50k on the truck and new Michelin LTX for about 7k now. Felt like the tires are not balanced, but they are new. Anyone experience this ? thanks in advance.

paisan

If you follow Sean's saga, he's had his brand new tires balanced 1/2 dozen times to get it right.

-mike

boxtrooper

http://www.gsp9700.com/

sbcooke

actually only 1 tire 3 times. However, I am not satisfied with the job. This firestone place doesn't have the right equipment to do the job properly...I knew going in about SUV tires and this kind of shop, but I figured, who could screw up new tires! Anyway, while the ride is about 95% there, I am not totally satisfied, I have a similar experience, under 75 they are great, over I get some vibration, not bad, but not the way I want.

I am going to another place that has the Hunter GSP9700 Balancer (I was going to buy from them but they were $20 more per tire, now it seems like a bargain). Anyway this machine and shop is better equipped to do SUV tires. It is going to cost me an extra $30-50 to have all tires re-done. A small cost, vibration heats up tires...heat causes them to fail...then you have an exploder not trooper.

I do like the tires. They handle great, wet/dry, are quiet, except at 70-75 and up. Only regret was trying to save a buck, rather than go to the right shop the first time.

ces4

Referring to my message # 1822, thank you for answering some of my questions. I guess the first time my AC was bad it was because the expansion valve was not working properly. They replaced it and after that they said the compressor blew up. Now I have to replace the compressor and the dryer. How come the new expansion valve blew up the compressor? Can the compressor damaged the expansion valve and they did not check the compressor and just limited their findings to the valve?
Can somebody answer?

I'm just trying to find out if somehow they damaged the compressor when they put the new valve in and they are making me pay for it.

Thanks

calf1

I took it in to Big O tire store that uses Hunter DSP9700, they said the balance were off on all 4 a bit and re-balanced them, seems to drive a bit smoother but the vib and shakes are still there above 80 mph.
I did not mentioned that the dealer did repack the drive shaft under warranty few weeks back because of cluck noise during 1st to 2nd gear shift, I think they just re-greased the slip yolk that goes into the tranny, they dropped the drive shaft, can they do something wrong during this process ? If they did do somthing wrong, it would make more sense to have this shake at all speed. It would be hard to go back and tell them " there is vib over 80 mph", they will probably tell me not to drive so fast. Any other ideas. thanks
Calvin

savvas_e

I don't know if you guys have access to this system.

Bob Jane T-Marts in Australia have a system called ProBase balancing. What they do is a balance of the wheel without the tyre on, to find the high point of the wheel itself. They then do a balance of the tyre without the wheel, to find the high point of the tyre. They then install the tyre on to the rim so the two high points oppose each other. Then they do a balance of the whole assembly. This way they need only install a minimal amount of weights to balance it all out, reducing the spinning weight that may otherwise be there.

I'm getting a wheel alignment and balance done at this place on Saturday morning. They guarantee that they will get rid of the problems I've been having with the "follow the crown" steering and off centre steering wheel, and I can get a follow up balance and alignment every 10,000kms for $25.

savvas_e

Get the driveshaft checked again. I don't think you're experiencing wheel balancing problems if the whole car is shaking that badly. It also make sense if this started after there was work done to it.

My view is if any problems start after something has changed, then that last change is most likely to be the culprit or has at least brought to the surface another underlying problem that was previously hidden. So I think the driveshaft is your best starting point.

Comes from my computer industry background!

breakor

A bad expansion valve can damage a compressor. However, if that was the case, when the shop replaced the expansion valve they should have called you with news that they when they tested the system they found the compressor was shot. Instead they tell you everything is repaired and send you on your way.


So take your choice - bad diagnosis by the shop or lousy repair? Either way I still say the rest of the repair should be on the shop.


As a next step you may want to try posting your story on airconditiong.com's BB and get their expert's feedback. http://aircondition.com/wwwboard/


In adddition, take it to another AC shop and get their opinion. They could find something proving incompetence by the Honda dealer (e.g. wrong refrigerant charge, wrong part, etc.).


Lastly, won't any Honda dealer honor the repair warranty? If so, take it to another one and see if they find a problem with the original repair/will honor the warranty of a "repaired AC" system.


Good luck and keep us posted

breakor

Like sawas_e said get the driveshaft checked. It sounds like they may have put it in out of phase. No big deal they just need to bolt it up in exactly the same position as it was when they dropped it.
As a longshot option you could have a plugging fuel filter. When at high speeds the vehicle will momentarily starve for fuel causing more of a bucking feeling. I had that happen once on a Toyota.

sbcooke

Took my truck to get the Hunter GS9700 "road force" balancing today. They said that they couldn't do the road force measurement because the tread is too aggressive on the Dueler A/T. They balanced it with the same equipment...before one tire that had over 4 oz. of balance weights with a total of 5 weights all over the wheel...after it has 1 weight, 0.5 oz. The ride is much better. All the tires were off, one was off by over 3.5 oz.

I am going to bring the $50 bill to the firestone place for some compensation. What a joke, the Firestone place balanced the tires 3 times. Also, this shop pointed out that they were using the wrong weights (non-coated)...they put teflon coated weights on, supposedly to protect the alloy wheel.

calf1

I took the car into the dealer who re-packed the drive shaft, they confirmed something is wrong with the DS, they will need to call Isuzu Monday for authorization and order the part. I took a look under the truck before I took it in and noticed the greasing fittings in the front section and rear section of the DS is off 180 degree, out of phase, when they pulled part the slip yolk to grease the spline, maybe they put it back wrong ? I look at the diagram in the service manual, it show all three grease fittings of the DS are on the same side. Thanks for all your help and will keep you all posted.

calf1

Push send to fast, another question.
If they put in a new DS, how would they match (align) the front(tranny) and the differetial ? or don't have to. thanks

breakor

If your grease fittings do not line up they put the driveshaft in out of phase (and maybe the slip yoke out of position in the driveshaft). That being the case, it seems like they could use the existing driveshaft. Make sure the slip yoke is oriented correctly and then line up the mounting marks on the existing driveshaft and yokes. The grease fittings will also line up this way and the shaft and yokes will be in phase.

If they order a new driveshaft for some reason, it should be exactly the correct length provided they get it from Isuzu. They do not have to realign the tranny or diff. It should also come correctly balanced. They still however can install it out of phase.

Do yourself a favor read up on driveshaft phasing and then talk to the shop to see if they have a clue. It sounds like they don't.

savvas_e

Very disappointing that they haven't caught on to the grease points being out of alignment. This is real basic type stuff.

Got my wheel alignment done yesterday. Steering wheel is now back to centre in the straight. Following the crown of the road has been vastly reduced, and the trim height reset. Before they started, they told me that the tendency to follow the crown won't be eliminated totally because the BFG's A/Ts will be contributing to it.

If the scrubbing on the outer edge of the front left tyre, and the inner edge of the front right has been eliminated, then I'll get another 10-15,000km out of these BFG's. That'll take them past 60,000km.

sbcooke

What specific size socket and extension length is needed to change a plug in the 3.5L engine? Is there anything special you need? the inside of the plug holes look highly polished, I am not sure there is a specific driver required?

sdc2

Most of them just require the standard long extension to reach the plugs. The back plug on the drivers side is more tricky due to the master cylinder in the way, I used two short extensions fed in one at a time for that one.

I don't recall the plug socket size, I think it is the smaller of the two standard sizes.

AS far as other stuff, just get a small tube of anti-seize lube for the plug threads.

The plug swap on this engine is probably easier than any vehicle I have ever had.

sdc2

I think the interval for bearing repack is 30K miles. Since mine is overdue for this, I need to get it done. Has anybody else had this done? How $$ was it? Or has anybody done it themselves? How difficult?

ryanendres

My dealer quoted my 50.00 to repack the front bearings as long as they didn't rip the rubber boots inside. If your looking to do it yourself check they link for a How To on the Rodeo (should be the same with the Trooper).

http://www.fastriceracing.com/wwwroot/Personalpages/DaveC/Instructions/bearingrepack.htm

-Ryan

calf1

what kind of plugs are recommended for 3.5 L ? I know it's been talked about. Can someone please point us to the right post? thanks

sdc2

For $50 I would have the dealer do it, that's a no brainer. But if it really takes 3 hours to do, there is no way the dealer only charges $50...

sdc2

I put Autolite Platinum plugs in (I have a motorhead buddy who is down on Champion for some reason), they were less than $2 each. The dealer wanted something like $12 each for theirs!

They have been running fine for 13K miles now...