Isuzu Owners Maintenance and Repair

bluedevils

Yes, several people on this forum have reported problems with the changer. The changer on our 98 Trooper died before the 50k warranty expired, and it was replaced by the dealer, no questions asked.

beer47

My stock shocks have had enough @ 68k. I am thinking about the new Monroe Re-flex shocks. Anybody tried these yet? I just want a good shock with no adjustments as I do no off-roading. I know paisan and others use Rancho/OME/and others. What other experiences are out there? Did you guys buy at Sears/Pep Boys/AutoZone or go online? Which websites have the best prices? I saw Shox.com, they are big believers in Bilstein and Tohiko(SP?) Thanks in advance for your replies. Cheers to all!

paisan

If I were getting non-adjustables I'd got with either the OMEs or the Bilstiens. Bilstiens are great shocks overall so I'm sure their Truck ones are great.

-mike

sdc2

I had mine replaced last year, so far the replacement unit has been good. Who knows how long it will last.

keepontroopin

Why haven't you considered the BFG All-Terrains? Just curious?

paisan

I refuse to pay $150+ for tires. I got the Pirellis for ~$100 and the Yokos are +/- $5. BFGs are nice but I wear through tires way to quickly to put on $150 tires.

Edit: $168/tire v. $99/tire

-mike

keepontroopin

I bought mine for $124 a tire from a local shop that carries BLEMs. The blemishes were all on the white raised letters and I was putting them on white side in so I didn't care about the blemishes. I have to admit that I absolutely love these tires though. Try to ask around for someone who deals in BLEMS if you ever get the BFG bug.

acowboyfan

Went to the dealer yesterday to have them examine it and start building a case file for Isuzu, and a couple of hours later, service manager called me and told me that they were going to give me a grace period on the warranty and would replace the changer for free. Needless to say I was shocked but pleased.

sbcooke

While coming back from vacation...fully loaded, 4 adults 2 bikes, roof box carrier and a boat load of gear...driving across the Mass Pike, in about 95 plus heat my temperature gauge started approaching "H". It was fine if I backed off the gas, shutoff the A/C, or when I stopped. When I was trying to keep 65-75 MPH going up hill, I was afraid of overheating? I am not sure if I just exceeded the load carrying capacity and with the high heat it was just a fluke?

Any ideas? How do you check/change the thermostat? BTW didn't burn any oil in 2000 miles, with 4 long highway road trip days.

boxtrooper

Any other clues? What model and year? Oil changed on time? Radiator FLuid full? How many miles on the water pump? Are all the belts tight? Loss of power when overheating or just overheating? Anything coming out of the engine compartment? Smells?

I have pushed my 1995.5 Trooper engine really hard, pedal to the floor for many minutes in some cases and I have never had the temperature go up noticeably on the gage. On my 1984 Trooper the temoperature went up to 2/3 when the water pump was about worn out (145K miles or so). It also was losing radiator fluid by a slow drip from the water pump bearing that would dry on the engine so the ground stayed dry while the reservoir went gradually down.

paisan

I've towed with my 00 long long hills @ 95 degree heat with AC and 5500lb loads. No overheating at all.

I'd venture to say it's either the fan clutch, T-stat or H20 pump. Since it's only at high speeds I'd recon that it's the H20 Pump or T-stat though.

-mike

savvas_e

Bilsteins are great however they have one big drawback. They are monotube, which means the outside tube you see is actually the piston tube. Any damage to the outside, even minor dents, could render the whole shock useless.

With OME's, Ranchos, etc, most are twin tube. The piston tube is actually inside another outer tube. So you can mildly dent the outer tube without affecting the operation of the shock.

breakor

If you have recently done some mudding you could have plugged radiator fins. If this is the case simply wash off/out the dirt.

Another less obvious but somewhat common problem is too much antifreeze. While some is beneficial too high a percentage can reduce your cooling efficiency.

As to how to check the thermostat, that is typically done by having it out of the car and noting its operation in hot water. Thus, this is not an easy one to do as you have to remove the part.

I don't really know how to flow check a water pump. FWIW I just look for leaks and listen for unusual grinding noises from the running pump. If the pump is bad you might as well do the timing belt and idler pulley as the incremental labor is not all that much. Similarly, when it comes time to do the timing belt/idler pulley you might as well do the water pump.

acowboyfan

My 99 Perf Pkg (LS) has never come even close to overheating - it's actually one of the more remarkable things to me about the Trooper. No matter the outside temperature, my speed, the load, whatever, it simply warms up to normal, and never budges. Of course, I don't do any towing, so it hasn't been really tested.

Still, last month I went white water rafting in the Kern and had 4 people, with the back pretty heavily loaded, going over the Grapevine (steep grade), in 95+ degrees, A/C on high, and doing 75-80 the whole trip, and the temp gauge never budged.

Now my wife's Blazer is a different story altogether...

sbcooke

I have a 1999 S. With 30K on the truck. Oil changes and regular maintenance, etc. There was a loss of power and A/C while the temp rose. Coming off the gas and not accelerating up hills, but gradually slipping down to 55 would ease the temp. As soon as evening hit, the problem stopped. It is hard to imagine it is the water pump, since it would cool right down as soon as I slowed, started down hill or came to a stop. The problem only occurred while on the highway for a long time.

breakor

"It is hard to imagine it is the water pump, since it would cool right down as soon as I slowed, started down hill or came to a stop."

Try imagining a pump that is only working at partial capacity (or partially opened t-stat for that matter). Such reduced flows might work with low engine heat loads but are not enough to keep the engine cool when it is loaded down. Just remember that the amout of gas you are burning is more of less the heat load on the engine. Going downhill or sitting still burns very little gas resulting in an unloaded/cool engine. Going uphill full of people and gear burns a lot of gas and can load up the cooling system.

Check your fluid levels and condition and let us know what you find.

For the record, my 1999 has never even come close to overheating in 110's.

dielectric7bb

In my '95 trooper I've only seen the temp gauge go up once. 115 degree weather up a mountain pass at 75 to 65 (tranny was shifting too much, now I'll just down shift to 3rd) while driving into the sun set (not as romantic as it may sound) with A/C on. It didn't get to the over heat mark, but it did move up a significant amount. Kind of gets your heart racing. It's never done such a thing again, even over the same pass under the same conditions. Since then though I have had the 90k service done so the radiator fluid has been flushed (with all new hoses).

sbcooke

Levels are OK, at least what I could check. The fill tank is between min/max and oil is fine. Plenty of wiper fluid too :-)

It didn't overheat, but got very close to the "red zone" (even though there is no red). Backing off caused it to be OK. I plan of going in to the dealer for the next oil change now, so I will see what they can find. I haven't had a chance to check the radiator fan blades? It is possible that dust/dirt/mud is all over...I did a good amount of oversand and offroading on my vacation.

breakor

My suggestion was to check the radiator fins not fan. Just walk to the front of the vehicle and look at the radiator. Is it all covered in dirt restricting flow across the radiator fins?

In any event the dealer may be able to pinpoint your problem.

sdc2

Sam that is not right to overheat. I towed a small camper across the Rockies in May on the way to Moab, never had any temp readings above normal. At times I was down to 2nd gear on some of the climbs.

cknott

Recently, I have noticed that my 99 Trooper with 55k looses cold air when sitting at a red light or idling....after the engine has been running a while. It feels as if the "A/C" button was disengaged, however, in fact it wasn't. If I disengage the "A/C" button for a little while(1~2 minutes) and then reengage the "A/C" button, the air conditioning works again. Has anybody experienced this problem? Advice? I am hoping that it simply needs a recharge due to a slow leak somewhere.

savvas_e

A simple way to check as to whether you need a recharge is the following -

Locate the receiver/drier. It is a slim, black canister shape that is connected in-line to the air con pipes, mounted vertically and has a small circular sight glass on top. On my 2000, it is located behind the front grill just in front of the radiator. Make sure you have a clear view of the sight glass. You may need to remove the grille to do this.

Switch the air con off and start the engine. While you are looking at the sight glass, you will need to get someone else to switch the aircon on. You should see some foaming occur in the sight glass for a moment and it should then clear up. If this is so, then you probably don't need a recharge.

If however the foaming persists and doesn't clear up within 5 seconds, or you get no foaming at all, then the gas is probably low and you need a recharge.

Hope this helps.

sdc2

40,000 to 42,500 (roughly) on the odometer, consumed about 1/2 a quart. Consumption seems to be going down if anything. Guess it's finally getting broken in!

FYI I have used Mobil 1 5W-30 since the first oil change.

hus060

My trooper S model, 3.2 DOHC, has 141,000 miles. The transmission A/T light on left panel instrument just started to flash after about 5 minutes or so into driving mode. I looked at the owner's manual and it stated that a need to have this vehicle check with authorized dealer since there is a malfunction with the computer that perform the shifting of driving mode, D, 3, 2, L...
I wanted to know if anyone has experienced with this problem and their solution/recommendation without going to the dealer and getting a big cost on repair?

thanks,

hus060

armtdm

The Mobil 1 has a viscocity on the lower end of acceptable 30 weight, thus a thinner 5 W 30 oil which may account for addtional oil consumption. Other synthetics are on the higher end of acceptable 30 Weight limits. May be worth a try to use RedLine or Amsoil or another for one change and see if consumption continues.

emiura

My 99 Trooper with 47K miles got two seal leakage problems: Front diff pinion seal and rear axle seal (left only). I took it to a local dealer for warranty repair last week, but they did not do it as they determined it to be "normal seapage", and Isuzu wont' let them repair something like that. However, later when I talked to their service manager and having him look at it, the manager agreed to do the repair. He still said it is seapage and not "leak", but he wanted to fix it before my warranty expires.

My mechanic (non-dealer) said he hasn't seen this problem with other Troopers he's worked on, but I just wanted to post this info for other Trooper owners. Below is the link to the pictures.

http://community.webshots.com/user/emiura/

...Eiji...

paisan

I've gotten less consumption running Mobil 1 5w30 than with dino YMMV though.

-mike

sdc2

I don't consider burning one quart per 5,000 miles to be a problem, in fact I think it is pretty good. I wanted to contrast it to people who are burning a quart per 1,000 miles.

And the thinness of Mobil One 5W30 is actually an asset in the winter in Minnesota!

kcinmn

Hi, I'm new. And I joined because I'm getting a little desperate, and I'm hoping someone here can give me a clue.I've had an intermittent problem for several years, getting CE light with code 44 (O2 too lean) after 10 miles of freeway driving (usually won't happen otherwise). But the symptoms aren't too lean - it loses power and emits black smoke out the exhaust if I try to accelerate. It's runs pretty well with the CE light on, until it slows below 45 MPH, at which point the check engine light goes off and we're back to black smoke. I tried replacing the O2 sensor ($200, factory part). No change. I took it to a shop, they drove it 40 miles while watching the O2 sensor readings, said the voltage levels were normal, with normaly fluctuation, and
thought the lean reading might be a plugged fuel filter, so they changed that. No change in symptoms. I had heard that Bosch plugs
might cause an occasional misfire, confusing the O2 sensor, so I put in NGK platinums and a new air filter at the same time. No change. Any clues as to what to check? Sorry for the long post, thought the details might help.

KCinMN

leedavidyoung

My Trooper would sometimes stall under acceleration and other times idle at 3,500 rpm. I don't remember any black smoke but the CE light would come on in conjunction with the stall. Dealer replaced air regulator and it cleared up.

bluedevils

To a non-gearhead like me, your thoughts on Mobil 1's 5W30 being thinner than some other brands' 5W30 seems reasonable.

Perhaps one explanation for why my 98 Trooper consumes so much oil is that I always use 5W30, whereas many folks use something thicker (10W30, etc.)?

breakor

It sounds like you have checked/replaced all the usual suspects for running rich. Presumably you didn't notice any problems when inspecting the old plugs.
Sorry I don't have a 95 to give you specific advice, but here goes my attempt at general advice, use at your discretion -
Are you sure you got all the 02 sensors? Some Isuzus have more than 1.
My next suspect would be a malfunctioning fuel injector. I would first try a couple of doses of fuel injector cleaner.
Also, I think it is possible for a spent or plugged cat to fool the system into running rich. If you were running rich for quite some time before the 02 sensor change, you could have fouled the converter. Now with a fouled cat you have tricked the system into running rich again (and also fouling the new 02 sensor making the problem even worse).

kcinmn

Hey, thanks for the suggestions. I finally drove it hard enough for long enough (15 min at 70+) to get it to set the light, and took it to the shop immediately. They hooked a monitor up and drove it. At first all looked normal, but after about 5 miles the O2 was reading dead lean while black smoke was spewing. And the knock sensor kept kicking in. Normally this would mean a bad O2 sensor, but since I had replaced it with no change in symptoms, the tech was a little confused, but said his next step would be to monitor the O2 output and ECM input at the same time to see if there were wiring problems. Of course that would cost about the same as an OEM sensor, so my next step (tonight) is to pick up a Bosch sensor ($70) and see what happens. I may also try some injector cleaner, too. There's only one sensor, before the cat. And I'm sure the cat's not plugged, plenty of power when it's running right.

KCinMN

armtdm

on 97 Rodeo V6 I have a seepage/semi leak and it drips from the alternator housing. The valve cover appears dry and for the life of me I cannot see where this oil is coming from but it drips from the bottom of the alternator. Is hter an O ring or seal somwhere that I am missing?

ziemann

I am reposting on this board my questions...sorry if you read this on the other board. I only received one answer to only one of my questions on the Rodeo board....
---------------------------
I will apologize right now if these are topics that have been beaten to death. I did not find a response on my searches, so I will ask them now.

On saturday, my wife and I test drove and subsequently bought a '00 Amigo, V6, 4WD, AT w/26K miles. We took a short trip with it on Sunday, and truely fell in love with this vehicle. This is our first Isuzu, and we had no idea that an SUV could be so much fun to drive. On Monday while finishing the paperwork on the '00 Amigo, the dealer talked us into trading our '98 Cherokee in on a second Isuzu: a new '02 Rodeo S V6, 4wd. So, now in the matter of 4 days, I have two Isuzu's and really don't know much at all about them (was a Jeep man, hehe) :-)

Ok, now on to my questions:

1. Where can I get a cheap yet complete service manual that covers these 2 vehicles? Does Chilson offer one? I do most of my own maintenance, and found the owners manual to be grossly inadequate.

2. I have lived several frigid places the past few years. I have converted all of my vehicles to synthetic fluids (Amsoil/ Mobil 1)in the AT, engine, diffs, transfer cases, etc. Are there any known issues with synthetics in these vehicles- especially the AT?

3. The seat material on both of my Isuzu's seems to be pretty light duty. Does anyone have a good recommendation for a "stock looking" seat cover for these vehicles??

4. I tow snowmobiles all winter. Usually no more than 3000 pounds. Can anyone make a recommendation for a good hitch (non OEM) that I can use with my Rodeo? My Rodeo has the spare under the rear end of the vehicle (which concerns me)...

5. My Rodeo S came with a stereo AM/FM cassette which seems to work ok...sounds ok....not great but not bad. I have seen that there is a Isuzu CD player that can be installed in the spot below this stereo...Is there a cheap place to get one for my '02 Rodeo? Is it worth it since I am on a budget? Or should I just scrap the whole OEM stereo concept for something different? Remember, I am on a budget!!

Any help from you "experts" is invaluable!!!

Ziemann
(Wisconsin)

bluedevils

1. Service manual - go to www.helm.com and order the factory workshop manual. This will be specific to year and model. The newer the vehicle, the greater the cost. Figure $100-150 for the 2002 Rodeo, slightly less for the 2000 Amigo. Or you can search online for the Chilton web site - Chilton has been bought out by a different company, so do a Google/Yahoo search for "Chilton service manuals" or something and you should find a link to the real site. I think there's a Rodeo/Amigo version. Many auto parts chains have them too. About 15 bucks. Not sure if Haynes also offers one.

2. Not aware of known issues with synthetic fluids in these vehicles. I put synthetic fluids into the differentials and the TOD (4WD) system, but not the A/T.

3. www.wetokole.com makes some really cool-looking seat covers made out of neoprene (wet suit material). They don't look stock and they aren't cheap, but I've heard good things and they look sharp on the web site. Definitely a custom fit, but not a stock look.

How did the salesman talk you into buying a 2nd vehicle when you weren't planning on it?

ryanendres

1. Yup the helm is all there is. 100-150. Check www.mjw.com for more info.

2. synthetic fluids, Can't hurt. I have it in my diffy.

3. Yup, they do look pretty cheap. and Wet Okole is the only place the I know of that sell them.

4. Hitch? 1800hitchit.com should have what you need.

5. If your looking for the OEM CD changer you can get a used one at www.car-parts.com BUT you will also need a new Isuzu head. There are 2 types of head units one has CD ability to hook up to the cd changer. Costwise, I would just drop 150 - 200 on a new head unit with CD player built in. I only had a cassette to begin with in my 2000 Amigo. I switched mine out and was amazed at the sound impovement even with the stock speakers.

good luck!
-Ryan
(Madison, WI)

ziemann

Thank you guys....I really appreciate the help!! :-)

And from what I understand from previous discussions that St. Charles Isuzu is the cheapest source for asseccories??

Ziemann
(recovering Chesehead- going to relapse in Dec.)

ryanendres

www.hparts.com
www.stcharlesauto.com
www.partscheap.com

kcinmn

Now that I've apparently solved the black smoke problem with a new Bosch O2 sensor, I'm ready to do the timing belt. Can anyone tell me exactly what tensioner parts should be replaced? Also, I usually change hoses, but I see that there are at least 5 small formed hoses, plus the heater hoses disappear behind the engine somewhere. Anyone replace these? Anyone ever had one burst? Just wondering if it's worth the cost/hassle to replace all of them.

KCinMN

ostaz

My 99 Trooper takes about 5-8 seconds of cranking before it starts (and sometimes it takes 2 tries) Once it does, it runs like a watch and idles nicely at 800 RPM. I changed the air filter, oil, and used a fuel injector cleaner. Any ideas where I should be looking.

Thanks

paisan

I have a similar problem. What happens is that the fuel back-flows to the tank when you turn off the car over time. So that initial start is hard. The alternate fix is to turn your key to the "on" position for 5-10 seconds then crank it. This turns on the fuel pump and pumps up the line before you try to start it.

-mike

sdc2

That sounds just like my problem from a few months ago. It was a bad fuel pressure regulator. It was allowing the fuel rail to depressurize while the engine is off. This means the fuel pump has to re-pressurize the fuel system while you are cranking the engine. This takes a few seconds, which accounts for the delay in starting.

ostaz

Thanks all.
sdc2, Is the fuel pressure regualtor part of the fuel pump? and what did you end up doing, dealer or you did it your self?

emiura

I didn't have answer to your question, so I asked the owner of the shop I take my Trooper. Here is his reply. Hope it helps.

-----
Eiji,

It is always difficult to determine where a leak is coming from without seeing the vehicle, however, the only place I have seen leaks in the area he is descibing is from either the oil cooler o-ring, the head gasket or the valve cover gasket.

Regards,

Keith Andreasen
-----

sdc2

is up on the engine somewhere, not sure exactly where. It was leaking fuel into the EGR valve if that is any help. I am still under warranty so had the dealer do it.

armtdm

thanks. Will check out the sources of the leak. The cooler sounds good to me.

sbcooke

Bright sunny day...made a quick trip to the video store. When I shut off the truck I realized I was spanning 2 spots, so I cranked it up, it started and just tapered off and stopped. 2 more times did the same thing, the 2nd time I gave it gas and let it rev, but when I came off it just shut off? I made a quick check, oil, water level was fine. So I went in and rented a video (spy games, it was pretty bad). It started up fine after a few minutes?

So I wonder what caused this? Could it have been flooded, I doubt it since I don't give it gas when I crank it? The throttle cable for idling could have been messed up? Maybe it is a sign of something more serious? It didn't re-occur and I went out on several errands yesterday?

paisan

It could have been a bad bit of fuel. If it doesn't persist then I wouldn't worry about it.

-mike

sbcooke

That is a good point. Maybe I will drop some dry-gas in there next time I go to the station.