Isuzu Owners Maintenance and Repair

calf1

I recall that I had a very similar problem a few years ago when my 99 was still under warranty. It turned out to be the mode switch, a mechanical gear indicator switch that tells the transmission computer the setting of the shifter. The symptom was very very hard shifting (up or down). The dealer actually replaced the drive shaft first, it took a few visits to final found the real problem.

amigo13

Has any Amigo or Honda Passport owner experienced a problem with their original transmission needing replacement before 100,000 miles? I was just told today, after a brief electronic test, that my 99 Amigo w/91K miles on it needs a completely new transmission. The repair tech said this model's transmission unit (same as Honda Passport) is known to go bad and that he'd replace it with a more reliable 4L30E unit for $2,500.00 plus tax. I don't know exactly what type of original transmission "unit" is in it now, but I've found the 4L30E on line for $1,695.00. It's likely the shop can get it cheaper (may already have one) and they're charging me over $800.00 for labor. Not being a mechanic, my logic is telling me to find out for sure if the "entire" transmission needs to be replaced or if it's just a component that can be replaced. If I pay this tech $200.00 he can take it apart and make that determination, but the realistic side of me knows he's going to tell me it needs to be completely replaced regardless.

The symptoms have been gradually worsening low gear catching or lurching during acceleration. There's also some sticking when I release the brake and accelerate. Since I just had my brakes done for the first time, I've ruled them out.

I've really loved my Amigo (other than a faulty fuel gauge indicator, a restart problem on humid days and a mysterious interior, front floorboard leak that has moved from the driver to the passenger side of the car when it rains - dealer couldn't, or didn't try, to find the source) and have paid for preventative maintenance regularly over it's lifetime, but I'm thinking of skipping the separation phase and filing for a complete divorce. Before I make such a harsh decision, I'd like to know if anyone else out there has experienced the same problem and if they can offer advice on paying for a more diagnostic procedure on the transmission components vs. a complete replacement. Thanks!

60hzpush

I posted months back but this takes the cake. i have a vibration at 65 mph. i've gone throught 2 new transfer cases, t2 new rearends 2 new driveshafts. Still vibrates. isuzu wont get me a loaner car. There customer service is downright rude. Never buy anything from these crooks.

Jmingo

wvpianoman

Not being very car smart... but you didn't mention switching tires...

Had a Toyota that 'vibrated and hummed' when turning left, sometimes. After 4 trips to 4 different garages, and a rear-end teardown... the problem was finally traced to a bad wheel bearing on the passanger rear. New bearing pressed on... no problems. (was really considering replacing rear-end... but at the tear-down, it was it GREAT shape to have 108K on it)

bahmed

1998 Rodeo, Auto, V6, 2W Drive, 82K miles. Recently worked on the Mode/Range Switch (opened, cleaned, re-greased) to fix the incorrect display of the gear status on the dashboard. Everything has been fine, but today after stopping at a Gas Station, I tried to start it and it just does not do anything. Then, I just shifted the gears from 'P' to 'R', 'N' and then back to 'P' and tried again and it starts perfectly. Seems like there is a loose electrical connection or mis-alignment of some kind. I don't know whether it has something do with the Mode/Range Switch, as per the Haynes Manual if the car is NOT in 'P' or 'N' the car should not start. Does the Ignition Switch (which is part of the Key Cylinder Assembly) needs replacement around the 80K mileage. I took out a piece of the dash and took a look at the underside of the Shift knob assembly. When the shift knob is in 'P' there is a electrical relay which clicks.

Any help is appreciated. The battery seems to be in good condition. Thanks

60hzpush

The first thing they did was high speed balance the tires. i just found out there buing my vehicle back. i just dont want it anymore. it left me stranded on the highway.

bahmed

Check the Freon level and something called a 'Pressure Switch'. There is a spark plug shape switch right about the condenser near the radiator, which has a I believe the 'L' line connected. The function of this switch is to cut off the compressor if the Freon pressure falls below a certain value. This is the most common A/C problem next only to a low freon. To change this Switch, you need to release all the existing Freon, change the Switch and then add the recommended amount of Freon make sure you lubricate the seals at this time and other maintanence for the A/C. More than likely this is the case if it is not something to do with the lack of power in the motor and the PCM is managing the available power efficiently. Check out the www.planetisuzu.com and search in the forum for more cases like yours. Hope this helps.

bahmed

I had the exact same issue and did lot of research, this is a common problem, I have 98 Rodeo, V6 Auto, 2WDr. Here is the simple solution with detail pictures on how to do it. http://isuzufaq.ibctech.ca/#faq59 I did this couple of weeks ago and the problem disappeared completely. Make sure, you mark how the Range/Mode Switch is installed and install it back the same way, otherwise you may ruin the switch and may damage the transmission. It is relatively easy, just purchase one poach of di-electric grease (also known as spark plug grease), I bought it from Auto Zone for 99 cents, usually they are located near the cash counters. Also, check the Transmission oil level. Checkout the procedure on how to check the Transmission oil level http://isuzufaq.ibctech.ca/#faq43. After lot of research I found the best pump to pump the oil in to this transmission is something called Suction Gun (Available at Auto Zone). This is a very easy fix, if you are handy with tools and have the metric sockets and wrench. Budget 3-4 hours for this job, it may take less than 45 min in the best case.

akboy37

I recall that someone had a website or a procedure on here (which I cannot find). Can someone help me out with this. Thanks!

dcam

Sounds like the mode switch is not adjusted properly.If it is off just a hair,it will look as if it is in park when it is not.The mode switch failing is common for rodeo.As far as the ignition switch,they do not need replacement per mileage.However,a key stuck in the ignition is also common.If this should ever happen,an ignition cable adjustment will be needed.

ryanendres

http://isuzufaq.ibctech.ca/#faq1

-Ryan Endres

bahmed

Thanks a lot dcam, that is exactly what it was, I followed the wrong thoughts and did the unneccessary Solenoid contact replacements for the starter. I readjusted the Mode Switch to the extreme end ( this way the toggle inside the Mode Switch is touching the 'P' side wall. It is so amazing that the whole drive has changed including no more hard shiftings I have been experiencing between 2-4 and 4-2. Is there a technique to adjust the perfect way. When the two bolts holding the Mode Switch are removed, the slot has a range of like 1/4 inch (from side to side). I just did the maximum to one end. The 'P' light on the dash was not displaying at all occasionally before and it does not doing that anymore. This Switch is notorious in terms of sensitivity and what it does if it is not installed correctly and precisely.

bahmed

Since, I adjusted the Mode Switch to the extreme end (Message# 2854), do I have to be concerned about that the Transmission never gets pass 3rd gear or it can not be the case.Can Anyone share the accepted range of rpms at which the gears should change. The Rodeo drive very well, but I am just being little concerned, whether it can be the case. Appreciate your help

eric2003

Anyone knows a good place to order factory oil filter for 2000 trooper. I used to order them from St Charles but they are quoting me $6 each plus shipping charge. The last time I purchased from them was only $3.50 each with free shipping.

bahmed

Hi dcam, I am planning to replace the Mode Switch as the problem persists. Are there any tips how to adjust this switch when installing a new one. Appreciate your help.

dcam

Sorry for the late reply.If you"ll be replacing the mode switch,then the best guide to adjust the new switch will be the old switch.Look at the imprint the two 10mm bolts made on it.Do not adjust the switch to either far end.This is too much.You may have to adjust it several times untill the P lights up.Very important:Replace new mode switch with trans in park.Is this a 2wd or 4wd?

garywc

Could someone please tell me how to change the spark plugs in a 2001 Trooper

wlbrown9

You will need a phillips head screwdriver or nut-driver to remove the screws that hold the coil packs that cover the spark plug holes. One of these will be difficult to get to the screws... I think I had to use a little right angle screwdrive...one that had phillips on one end and flat head on the other. Once you remove these screws (IIRC) the coil packs will lift off the rubber sleeves that go down and cover the top of the plugs (there is a coiled metal wire inside the sleeve that connects the coil pack to the plug). IF the sleeves lift off the plugs and come out easily you are fortunate. A trick to use if they are stuck is to get an air pump or compressor with a little tapered adapter (I used the little electric plug-into-the-lighter compressor I had at home.) Use the air pressure to pop the rubber sleeve loose from the plug. (I got 5 of mine free by pulling and twisting, but the last one would not release. It took we a day or two thinking to come up with the compressor trick. DO NOT keep pulling and twisting because the sleeve will eventually tear.. I have heard probably over $100 each to replace since you have to buy the complete coil pack. Pick up a $15 compressor at your favorite discount store if you don't already have one.)

Once you get the sleeve off, use a rachet and socket with whatever extension will work (might be helpful to have a flex extension to get to one or two) to remove the plugs. Install the plugs and reconnect coil packs, etc. Folks have suggested using anti-seize compound on the new plug threads to minimize the chance of problems if you need to remove in the future... Sounds like a good idea to me.

I did have one coil pack that did not reconnect to the connection wire good at first and cause a CEL and rough running. Once I corrected that everything went back to normal.

Suggestions on plugs to use. Use the same that came from the factory. Mine had Champions, but I think 3 different ones are listed in the owners manual. Using alternative plugs WILL be a bad experience. I went with the Champions since they were maybe $5 each and the Denso's were running maybe $15 each. Champion number for the 2000 Trooper is RC10PYP4 aka 7346.

Good luck,

Bill

flyingblind

I have a 1994 Trooper. How does one open the hood if the release lever is inoperable? The hood release will not operate. I pull the lever from inside but the hood will not "POP UP". I have tried spraying WD40 around the release by the front grill, pushing, pounding, banging & prying the hood while someone pulls the release lever in the vehicle but still no success. I do not think the cable is broken. What do I try now?

Eric Schultz

bahmed

Hi, I dont have the problem of the display 'P', it displays fine but when I try to start, the starter motor does not click in, the Mode Switch is not completing the circuit in 'P' and 'N' and hence it is not starting. After moving the Shift 3 to 4 times, it clicks. I have already serviced the Starter motor Solenoid contacts even though it was not needed. I tried removing the vertical bolt holding the harness plate, it is brass bolt going vertical. I have tried the gear wrench metric 13mm it slips, 12 mm does not fit. I hate to pay dealership $190 part and $150 labor plus shop supplies, plus tax etc for this one bolt not coming loose, but I guess I pretty much dont have choice now. St Charles Isuzu has the part for $142.

Appreciate your help though

bahmed

It is a 2W Dr

dcam

There is one 14mm nut in front of the mode switch that needs to be removed.The brass plate over the mode switch can be removed with a flat head screwdriver.Once you have that,there are two 10 mm bolts that hold the mode switch in.That's it.

bahmed

I have removed the 14mm nut many times. I could removed the two 10mm bolts attaching the switch to the Transmission body. The harness part of the switch is attached to a plate. This harness plate is bolted to the transmission by one 10mm bolt and a 12mm bolt. This 12mm goes top to bottom if you are under the car and looking up to the transmission. removing this 12mm bolt is the problem.

bahmed

Hi dcam, I matched the dust mark leftover by the switch on the transmission before it was removed for cleaning. I don't have the starting switch problem anymore atleast so far. But, half of the time the 'P' does not display, I have to touch or shake the stick and the 'P' lights up. I can live with this intermittent 'P' but as long as it starts. I have a question on your comment'Very Important:Replace new mode switch with trans in park', why is this so. As per the instructions in the Haynes manual for Rodeo, keep the trans in Neutral and align the slots on the switch toggler with the bushing with the 3/32in drill bit. I tried the Haynes procedure, it fixes the lights display issue, but the Starter Switch is way off. My best results have been follow the dust mark or the bolt mark. Also, I have put some WD-40 on the stuck bolt of the harness plate. Appreciate your tips. I have also observed that the Rodeo drives better now after I adjusted the switch to the dust mark, it may be just the speculation, but I do feel the drive is better.

cartosguy

Did you find an answer about your fan motor..I have a 99 trooper thats doing the same thing..

belaircarguy

My 1996 Trooper has a burned out front right turn signal. Bought a new bulb at the auto store, and now cannot seem to figure out how to remove the housing to replace the bulb. Looks like it may be connected to the headlamp, but did not want to take it all apart until I asked. Any help in directions to make this simple repair would be appreciated.
Thanks.

rebel4113

Hi Carl. I seen your question and have the same problem. I have the front end jacked up and had a really hard time getting the old starter out. Now the new one won't go in the same way...and I tried every way there is. Did you get and answer to your question and if so would you share the info with me. As I look at it , I may have to take my whole exhaust system off just to move the exhaust pipe to get the new one in.

Thank you for your time.

Cliff

bahmed

Hi, I have 98 Rodeo, V6, Auto, 2W Dr and it also comes with Champion number RC10PYP4 aka 7346. I have changed these plugs for the first time and the mileage is 83K. All the sleeves came off luckily without any issue, the middle plug on the driver side took little effort, but the rest came right off. The front plug on the driver side had little oil in it. I bought the plugs at Auto Zone $4.49 each. They were pre-gapped for 0.040. As per the Haynes Manual for 98 Rodeo, the gap should be between 0.040 to 0.043. I check 2 out of the 6 plugs and they were 0.040. So I just installed them without worrying about the gap adjustment. My question is do we need to adjust the gap. I heard either there is no need to adjust the gap of these Platinum plugs or it is not at all reccommended to adjust the gap. Is this true, what are the signs or performance impacts of a incorrect gap. The Rodeo runs much smoother and quieter than before. I have not yet made a judgement on the acceleration change. Gas mileage have been poor these days with A/C running all the time and few min of idling when dropping/picking up the kid, I have been getting an average of 14-15 per gallon, city driving.

Please let me know and appreciate your help.

husbands

Intermittently my '94 Trooper, on starting, produces the light "check transmission" and when placed in forward drive, it acts as if it's in high gear (no power). I've found that turning off the ignition, and then turning it back on, the light doesn't come on, and now the transmission performs as it should! Sure would like to find out how to repair this intermittent; any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks.

bahmed

Try to pull the codes, if it is P0705, it could be the Transimission Range/Mode Sensor, also known as the Transmission Inhibitor switch. I just changed mine on a 98 Rodeo and it has fixed ton of problems like hard shifting, incorrect display on the dashboard, starting problems etc. If you have the shift in 'P' and the display says anything else or if the display keep jumping from 'P' to 'R' to 'N', then more than likely it is the Transmission Range Sensor. The Trooper starting in higher gear sounds like the transmission is getting in to the backup mode, also known as the limp mode, which I believe it means it only drives in the 3rd gear. Hopefully, this helps.

dcorelis

Yesterday our 1998 Trooper, 104,000 miles, started up fine in the morning, but after the third stop it refused to turn over and start. At first we thought it was the battery, as we had been away for two weeks, but it still refused to turn over using jumper cables. There was a faint intermittent lick when turning the ignition key. I crawled under and "tapped" the starter solenoid with a tire iron. This caused the noise from the starter to increase and after several repeated blows finally the engine started. After turning off the engine at home it again refuses to turn over.

It appears to be a problem with the starter solenoid itself. Does this need to be lubricated or periodically serviced? We have never had a problem with the Transmission gear indicator or other sensors. After reading through the forums re starting problems, I am uncertain about the fix and wonder if the solenoid can be replaced without pulling the starter?

bahmed

The Starter Solenoid contacts wears out eventually or gets dirty and hence intermittent problems. I have recently changed the contacts of the Denso Starter on my 98 Rodeo, just to eliminate as a cause when I was having starting problems. I have 83K miles and the contacts still had half of their life left in. Since, I removed the starter, I changed the contacts. Search on the internet for Sherco-auto, they have detailed photos on how to change the Solenoid contacts, I bought the contacts at a local Alternator repair place for $5. I would still say eliminate the Transmission Mode/Range Sensor as the cause by moving the Gear Shift from 'P' to 'R' to 'N' and then back to 'P' and try to start again, In my case it was the Transmission Mode Switch. Your case sounds like the Solenoid contacts though.

dcorelis

Tried the Gear Shift shuffle, but still no start unless I pound on the solenoid body with a blunt object. Thanks for the Sherco-auto reference; I'll let you things get resolved.

elbrusz

Hey,

Did you figure out what is the source of the noise? I have exactly the same noise and could not show it to the service technicians. I would really appreciate your help.

thanks,

mohawk

We currently own a 2002 LS Trooper (43K miles). We bought it new and have had zero problems with it. I've been trying to stay on top of all necessary service items. Just took it in to an Isuzu dealer to have the tranny flushed and refilled. They also lubed the telescoping drive saft (grease fittings -- didn't know they were there??).

It's been a couple of weeks now....and I've notice something that I've haven't noticed before. When the Trooper shifts into OD, the vehicle shudders (i.e., small vibrations). It doesn't happen every time, just when the RPMs are low. For example, if I take away quickly from a stop and keep up the revs, the vehicle shifts smoothly, as expected. However, if I take away easy and keep the RPMs lower (I would consider this "normal" driving), the vehicle will occasionally shudder once it goes into overdrive. It doesn't do it all the time, but it does it enough to cause concern.

I took it back to the dealer and they test drove it and checked all the codes. Everything came back normal.

One of the main reasons I bought the Trooper was for the outstanding warranty. However, I would rather not have to use it to replace the tranny, etc.

Has anyone else noticed their Trooper shudders when going into OD. If so, what did you do to fix the problem?

bahmed

It could be the Slip Yolk, you may have to get the Slip Yolk re-greased, I think this is exactly what the dealership did (telescopic drive shaft), but the 43K miles is too early for this to happen to the best of my knowledge. The reason you just had the Tranny Flushed is more than likely the cause. There is lot of debate on what is the best choice, flush the tranny or just drop the pan and refill the pan. Dropping the pan replacing the oil replaces only 40% of the oil, flushing the tranny will replace 100% of the oil and all the sediments on the component. It takes a while for the new oil to settle down with the components. All the parts running fine before, now has a new environment, atleast this is what I have read on all the posts I have read. I have recently gone through a lot of hard Shifting and starting problems and the culprit was the Transmisison Mode/Range Switch. repacing the Transmisison Mode/Range Switch fixed all my problems. After driving a while, see if it still happens.

acowboyfan

So - has anyone actually gotten any resolution on this issue? I have a 99 Trooper w/Perf package, 99K miles, and just had the same/similar thing happen to me. I was on a fairly long road trip this weekend (@400 miles round trip) when the TOD Check light came on and started flashing when I was about 5 miles from my destination. I was in 2WD at the time, and didn't notice/feel/hear anything different while driving. Once I got to my destination, I pulled out the manual and after searching for a bit, found the brief mention of "indicates a problem with the TOD system. Check with your Isuzu dealer". Great. Thanks for the detail.

I drove the Trooper a few miles the next day, and the Check light was still flashing (note that the back wheel indicator for 2WD mode has remained solid the entire time), but again, no difference was noted while driving. I even enaged TOD for awhile, and moved the manual shifter into 4-Low and then back into 4-High, and no problems were noted (other than the Check light still flashing).

As I was 200 miles away from home and had noticed no problems, I drove home yesterday (about 200 miles). The Check light flashed the entire time, but the Trooper drove fine, and I actually got somewhat better mileage than normal. This morning I took the Trooper in to my local crooked Isuzu dealer (see post #2609 in this thread) - the one who told me nearly 2 years and 30K miles ago that I needed a new tranny right away - to see if they could at least pull the code for me. They wanted $95 to do that, so I said "Thanks, but no".

So, anyone have any ideas? I'm going to take it in to my in-laws' mechanic in a couple of days (hopefully he can pull the code at least), but I was wondering if bluedevils or anyone else had ever gotten any resolution on this one. Thanks...

bpietruszka

Hi, I have a 1998 Rodeo with intermittant hard shifting,"banging/clunking", seems like only in the morning. The led's as you mentioned go all over the place.
Then the problem goes away for a day sometimes a week.
I had all the fluids changed. I do not have any check engine LED on so I have no code.
Is this a hard part to change? Is it expensive?
Thanx for the info.

bahmed

I have gone through a extensive research on this, the fix is simply to change the Transmission Mode/Range Switch, you can order the part from St Charles Isuzu for like $142. It is easy to change the switch, provided you good set of gear wrenches and you can unbolt the vertical bolt (going top to bottom) holding the switch harness plate to the transmission, another Very Very important thing is to mark the position of the switch. The best way to know the switch position is either you mark it well with a permanent marker at multiple places around the switch or when you take out the switch there is a dust mark left out by the old switch on the transmission. If you are comfortable with these two tasks, then it is easy. In my case I could not unbolt the vertical bolt holding the wire harness, everything else was fine, just for this one bolt, I had to pay the dealer $150 labor plus $50 more for the part, I believe the dealer tilted the Transmission to unbolt it. My strong recommendation is to replace this switch rather than trying to fix it. The P707 code I mentioned is not going to display the CEL or Check Transmission Light, I believe you need a higher end code reader to pull these codes, not the one used at Auto Zone. hope this helps, this switch had given me lot of heart burn, I am glad finally it is done and it has fixed so many problems.

bluedevils

Well, our 'check TOD' light (flashing light or whatever) has been gone for quite a while now on our 98 Trooper. Actually, it is now my parents' 98 Troop as I sold it to them a few months ago. Off the top of my head, I don't remember what, if anything, we did to get the light to stop flashing. I will try to check back through my records and old posts here to see if it refreshes my memory. We did NOT pay a dealer or anyone else to fix anything; that much I do remember.

gackayoung

I have had this rig since last November - I love it so much but have just had a little bad luck !

1 - 60,000 miles on her
2 - starter just went
3 - driving home from the mountains lost a clutch - took it in (wasn't clutch just cylinder) while in had the timing belt replaced - go to pick it up and is knocking like crazy which I knew was the tensioner - I was stranded at the mechanics so I took the car home - while driving home noticed the revs were off and that the vehicle was reacting like redline at about 4.5 rpms - there was also no torque whatsover - get to my house - pop the hood and the coolant is full of oil and the smell of an overheated engine was apparant. Man - this has all happened in like 2 1/2 weeks - the tow truck is coming tomorrow.

Questions - 1. Coolant - think it is head gasket - 3rd major problem - is this common
2. did the timing belt need to be replaced or was it the tensioner all along - it was like 250 to have the timing done etc! - what are the estimated costs for this solution - and the gasket if anyone knows !
3. Clutch - feels loose since it went - there was fluid in it but with the milage where it is am not sure it could be worne ? Any thoughts.
4. What the hell else can go wrong on it and why is it happening at 100,000 kms!!!!
3.2 Litre SOHC 5 speed - black - was soon to be reaised with 31 and calmini 2 inch lift but am hesitating ? Although once done will just be a winter veh. For the first time in our relationship I am mad at my trooper - and the mechanic I took it to for being such an idiot (when the starter went I had a tune up done and none of this was noticed !!! ) -

Thanks

1sttrooper

I bought a 92 trooper and I am already having trouble with the four wheel drive.
when I put it in four high and move forward I hear a clunk clunk almost grinding noise then it goes away. When I put it in reverse I get the same noise. Now its stuck in 4 high and will not go into 4 low or 2 wheel drive. I have parked it and am afraid to drive it. Any one have any ideas as to what the problem is and the solution? Please help! I am mechanically inclined. :sick:

boxtrooper

I have a guess what is going on.
..
First, the clunk when changing directions should be a metalic click-click or several clicks. That is the sound of the automatic hubs engaging. They disengage when you change directions, so another set of click-click then a slight pause then click-click to engage in the other direction.
..
Second, I suspect also that you have been driving around in tight turns on dry pavement in 4wd. The Trooper has awesome off road capability because the transfer case is locked, that means the front drive shaft MUST turn the same speed and direction as the rear drive shaft. When you turn, the front wheels go a different speed from the rear wheels, this builds up tension in the drive train until a wheel slip occurs to relieve it. The 1992 Trooper's 4wd system is for offroad or slippery roads only. You can go in and out of 4wd while moving in a straight line without changing directions after the hubs are locked in, use this to drive on roads with patches of ice and snow. Switch back to 2wd when the pavement is dry to avoid binding in the 4wd drivetrain.
..
To get back out of 4wd, if you can't force the lever with a reasonable force, you need to relieve the tension a bit. You can provide a slippery spot by placing a couple sheets of wax paper on top of each other in front of a front tire then drive onto it, do not stay by the wheel when doing this, you are releasing stored energy when the drive train unloads. Repeat if needed until the tension is released while trying to shift out of 4wd. I think jacking up one wheel would work, but would be dangerous when the energy of the tension in the drive train is released.
..
The good news: If I am correct with this analysis, your 4wd system is in good shape. Something to watch for is to make sure to use the correct grease when greasing the front hubs, too thick or too thin will effect the autolock function. Also, if you don't like the automatic hubs, manual hubs are available at a fairly low price, but then you have to get out and lock em when you need them.

1sttrooper

Thank you so much for your quick reply. I have worried myself sick thinking about it. I will give your segestion a try. And let you know how things go. Thanks again

avanmiles

Hi. I just recently purchased a 1996 Trooper with 110k on it. I'm going to be driving it from Portland, Or to El Paso, Tx and want to get some maintenance performed before I go.

I took the Trooper to get the oil changed and the tech advised me to get a transmission flush service. I'm rather clueless about automotive things, so I'm unsure as to whether this $99 service is necessary or even good for my Trooper.

Any advice, please?

Thank you,
Sareena

trooper1337

I have a 91 trooper. It has a new longblock and the transmission was suppose to have been rebuilt . I've had it a few years . It's a 4wd auto trans. When I start it up and take off everything seems fine until I come to a stop. The check transmission light starts blinking. The trooper moves but acts like it's slipping or someting. You can drop it into low and it takes off again. I can turn off the engine and restart it and the light goes away and I'm off and running again. It will do that a few times then quit. No more problems until it sits for a while. If you let the engine run for about 5 minutes before leaving everything is fine. All fluids are correct.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated
thanks
Gus

trooper1337

I had this done on my truck and had to replace the transmission. I was told by the mechanic that it washed all trash into the torque converter. Since then I drop the pan and clean it. That way you can wipe out any sludge .
Good luck ..hope this helps
Gus

andyscorpion

Howdy,

1995.5 Isuzu Rodeo LS, < 120 K miles, Manual(Stick Shift), Single owner.


I bought 1995.5 Isuzu Rodeo LS in Dallas Texas in January 1996. I was a happy camper so far. It has exceeded my expectations for me for the past 9 years. I have done minimal maintenance on the car. This year looks really bad, now it is due for major repair. I am not an expert on any car issue. I need lot of help.


Last week I started getting check engine light on intermittently. I am not sure why was that. AC would stop working whenever that light came on. Sadly I kept driving for couple of days rather than taking it to a local mechanic or to a dealership.


Just yesterday car came to complete stop near intersections and traffic lights when I slowed down OR when that car is idling. Some how I got it started 3 times and came home. Also ALL of the engine lights near the speedometer would be on when it stopped. Engine noise does not sound smooth. Steering fluid is JUST below minimum. Radio also has stopped working.


Also car is due for 120K mile service, (last major service was 60K). I am not sure what is going on. I have done oil changes fairly regularly. And I have not done any other service at all apart from them. Any tips or ideas, before I take it to mechanic. I will be taking to mechanic may be on Monday. I may have to get it towed. I do not feel comfortable driving it until major things are fixed.


Here are some more details:

Looks like lug nuts and its rods are made of soft metal or Sams Club or Walmart folks or my local mechanics who do the tire rotation messed it up by wrong threading or by using wrong power tools. Pretty much all of them have to be replaced. Expensive!


Bear Joint and Valve cover needs replacement.


Timing belt change done at 60K. Next one is due.


Several times window up and down mechanism fixed


Alternator switch fixed


3 times all tire changed


No brake replacement done yet. 80% worn out. I have to replace them now.


No shock replacement done yet. 100% worn out. Any ideas as which one to replace them with? It was always a rough ride for me from pretty much from day one. I accepted that as part of driving Rodeo. I really would prefer smoother ride. I am an NOT an off road driver at all.


Near the back wheel, I think axle seal is leaking that needs to be fixed. I am afraid that has been the case for at least an year. Hopefully whole oil may not been drained?


Speedometer light is broken, I heard it is little expensive to replace those, as one has to remove lot of stuff to get to them .


Trunk glass door spring has stopped working. How do I find the replacement. Cassette player stopped working couple of years back.


When do I do the following changes or fixes to these?
Tension
Water Pump
Transmission Fluid
Serpentine
Head Gasket
Coolant
Fuel Filter
Front and Back Differential Fluid
Replace PCV


Any ideas on these from the experts? Thanks in advance.

paratrooper1

Have a 99 Trooper that has been very hassle free.It just rolled over 100K. It had stalled very infrequently at red lights when purchased new. The dealer checked it under the warrently but could not find any problems. It has since started stalling more frequently and even once when driving down the highway going 75 mph. I think it's time to get it checked. I also get transmission slipping noises (a clunk) at no particular speed about once a week. It is rather sporadic so I'm am not overly concerned but need to decide whether to hire a mechanic to check. I'm not sure if routine Preventative Measure will fix either problem. After reading a few other postings, I too have the soft lug nut problem. I have not been able to remove the spare tire because of this. Any advice on the stalling or clunk??

santrooper

I HAD A SIMILAR PROBLEM, BUT IT IS AT 104000, HAD A CRANKING NOISE AT "BELT" ACCORDING TO THE MECHANICS, WENT ON A TRIP, FACED NASTY TRAFFIC AND OVERHEATED, INITIALLY RADIATOR GONE,FIKED STILL LEAKING WATER; WATER PUMP. TRIED TO REPLACE AT REMOTE PLACE FOUND ONLY WATER PUMP. SPEND 280/= REPLACED THE WATER PUMP. SAME NOICE CAMEAS YOURS, I THOUGHT WRONGLY FIXED T-BELT, PUT A NEW T BELT SAME SOUND, TENSIONER HAS GONE. SINCE THE FIRST ATTEMPT. THE MECHANIC REALLY EAT IT. HE DOES NOT KNOW THE FUNCTION. IT IS HYDROLIC MEDIATED TENSIONER AND SOME PEOPLE THINK IT STUCKS AND DISSEMBLE IT TO MAKE T SOFT. THEN ONLY THE RATTLING NOISE COME. CHNAGED THE TENSIONER $90, BUT RE DID THE PREOCES WITH 150 FOR THE THIRD TIME. THIS TIME BY MY REGULAR MECHANIC. IF IT WAS NOT HEATED RE THINK ABOUT OIL IN COOLENT?