Isuzu Owners Maintenance and Repair

bluedevils

that may be a strange situation, but if the rears last 80,000 miles, who cares if the fronts last even longer? 80k miles on a set of pads is almost unheard of. Trooper brakes seem to be very durable.

paisan

my Rodeo went about 70K on the rear and 80K on the fronts. My Trooper did 30K rear and 40K front, on the first set and so far 40K rear on the 2nd set and 30K on the fronts.

I believe the Isuzus do not have a front bias or maybe 50/50 and the smaller rears force them to wear out quicker. Maybe they figure you'll be towing and the rear weight will need more rear braking.

-mike

wheels13

Have any of you members had any problems with your cruise control? As I was driving in cruise it suddenly dropped out of cruise and no longer works. The cruise light is lite but it doesn't engage. Thanks for any help.

jtk152

Does both the dash push botton & instrument cluster cruise indicator stay lit with the CC not holding?? What make/model/year?
Joel

beer4704

recently @ 111K (covered under 10/120 warranty), I had my first bulb burn out @ 114K. Rear brake light went. Replacement bulb was the #1157 that has been around forever. I am pretty sure my '64 Box Nova used that one as did my '65 and '69 Mustangs. I thought for sure those 1157's were not used for newer cars, shows how much I know! I did like the price though, $2 for 2 bulbs and replacement was a snap.

silverghost

If I understand your question correctly, my instrument cluster indicator light for the main cruise control switch stays on as long as the dash switch is activated, regardless of whether cruise is actually engaged. When cruise is engaged, a second indicator light on the instrument cluster is illuminated. When disengaged, that light is off.

My Trooper is an '01 LS 2WD.

Dave

eddie1337

hello guys i have a quick question. i have a 2001 LS with 47,000 miles and so far my Rodeo has run great, two cross country trips Virginia to Arizona and a round trip to Arizona from phoenix. I was wondering what tip of upkeep i should do on my truck. all i have done up until now are only regular oil changes and thats it. I would love to keep this car for many more years and mil

sdc2

You will get a lot of opinions, but first I would check the owners manual maintenance schedules, both "normal" and "severe condition" schedules (you will be surprised how much of your driving meets "severe conditions") and follow them.

Beyond that personally I would replace the spark plugs every 30K, it is cheap and easy and that way they wont weld themselves into the block like they can if you leave them a long time.

I would also have the tranny fluid and radiator fluid swapped every 50K.

BTW if you go to the dealer, make sure their service packages don't include a lot of stuff that isn't on the schedules - they often pump up the profit that way.

bluedevils

eddie, if you haven't changed the air filter at least twice by now, it is seriously overdue. this is an inexpensive and easy do-it-yourself maintenance item.

wheels13

The cruise control would not engage when the headlights were on but would engage if the lights were off. A $200.00 fix. Caroded trailer light connector.

bahmed

Owners manual reccommends to change the spark plugs at 100K. Presently, the Rodeo has 74K, is it reccommended to change before it reaches 100K, does it really makes a difference. Also, do I have to use the Genuine Spark Plugs from the dealership or I can purchase from Auto Zone or any local Auto Store. It seems the Genuine one at the dealership is approx $10 a piece and the similar one (Same Brand & Model) at the Auto Zone is approx $2 a piece. Just like to know is there any difference in the Spark Plugs purchased at the dealership and that of the Auto Zone even though it is the Same Brand (Champion) and Model. Appreciate your help.

matt1

I have a 1992 rodeo 6 cyl. w/ 160000 miles. Currently the veh on and off will bog down and blow black smoke as though it is running too rich. I have replaced the temp. sensor , and the feul pressure regulator, and this has not fixed the problem, the veh. runs well some times then others it races and i really have to stand on the breaks to stop it. When its running good its fine but when not sometimes I can acellerate to a speed and it will maintain that speed like cruise control. The idle when its acting up is very sporatic. the egr check out good too thats what the dealer wanted to change. any thoughts??? there is a electrical connector on the trottle body this when unplogged is suppoed to bog the engine down, but when I unplug it there is no change... the book is not whith me here tday so I dont have the name of the sensor/conector i forgot its name. timming is good, injectors are good, air filter is good, ?? Matt

wildbuc

Chad, thanks very much for you description on mounting a trans. cooler. I am considering doing the same thing but hesitate due to the problem of filling the trans. with ATF to the correct level. How did you solve that problem? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

paisan

I can put the cooler in, but the filling sux.

I actually am going to put in a cooler and external filter this summer I think.

-mike

cwm

I paid $18 for a Purlator brand at Auto Zone. The K&N's are much more. Think that the air filter life can be extended by vacuming them or blowing air though them to clean them?

bluedevils

98 Troop, 103k miles. Had intake manifold gasket replaced under warranty around 58k miles. Truck is idling uneven/racing when warm - almost stalls, bounces up to 1000-1500 RPM, then back. No Check Engine light yet. Last time, it came on eventually but I don't remember what codes.

Looking for advice: should I wait for the CE light, pull the code free at AutoZone to confirm it's the manifold gasket, then have somebody repair it? Can any decent shop be expected to know how to do this job, or do I suck it up and pay the dealer? Or is it better for the truck to fix this sooner rather than later? I've suspected for at least a month or two that the intake manifold gasket problem is brewing - based on gradually more noticeable racing/unneveness at idle when warm.

michalski

Hello. My 99 Rodeo's RPMs are fluctuating in idle at about 2 cycles per second. I first didn't notice until at night when it is very apparent with headlights and dash lights dimming at the same rate. There is no Check engine light. I can feel the RPMs cycling while slowly releasing brakes and the SUV starts to jump as the RPMs rise. I should mention that I just replaced my T-belt and had the situation where the marks on the sprockets didn't exactly line-up but going to the next notch would be to far. Any ideas if it is the timing or the alternator going into spasms and oscillating, which would put an oscillating load on the engine thus causing the RPMs to fluctuate?
Thank you.
Mike.

bluedevils

98 Troop, 105k miles, TOD. TOD red "CHECK" light came on yesterday while driving home. Also, the green lights for rear wheels in TOD display started flashing slowly. Green lights keep flashing all the time. Red CHECK light is flashing sometimes, not flashing most of the time. 4WD Low seems fine. No problem lights on display when TOD engaged, but I didn't confirm if TOD is actually engaging/disengaging when the indicator lights say so.

Had this same thing happen about 6 months / 8,000 miles ago. I changed TOD fluid (drained out much more than the spec then added the proper amount) and problem went away. Unless anybody has ideas of what I can check, I will probably take truck to dealer. Paisan mentioned actuator or speed sensors (including a bad connection to a speed sensor) as possible causes, but I don't know how/where to check those things. Can they hook up a scan tool and hopefully determine the problem based on the trouble codes? That would probably cost me an hour's labor for the diagnosis. I don't want them to spend several hours 'investigating' and end up with a huge bill just for diagnosis.

This a.m. I checked TOD level while vehicle/engine completely cold. No fluid dripped out of fill plug, but when I put my finger in I could feel fluid right there - so the fluid level is probably fine.

Last time, no codes from the (PCM? The one near driver's left knee, left and below steering wheel) when AutoZone hooked up their scan tool. Not sure if that meant no problems, or if the TOD trouble codes are stored somewhere else?

ilit

I had same syntom. A device called "fuel sending unit" was replaced and the problem has been cured since.

wildbuc

Okay guys, I'm not going to ask you for the location of those *&$!** transmission fill and drain plugs, just to tell you what happened today.

I took my 99 Trooper to a mechanic who said he was very knowledgeable about Troopers, having owned 3 of them himself. He put on a trans. cooler in about 35 minutes, and then began looking for the tranny fill plug. 5 hours later after making many, many phone calls for help, he finally found the right plug and completed the service. We both missed lunch and I began to have visions of my beloved Trooper being ruined. I'll now have to take it to another business to make sure all fluid levels were properly filled. I'm getting tired of all these expensive lessons learned.

rangner

Anybody here know much about the diesel isuzu pup from the 80's? I'm looking for one preferably a 4wd and turbo.

I've seen many 2wd's and N/A diesels, and one 4wd, but no turbo. Did Isuzu make a 2.2l turbodiesel?

Are they more rare than the N/A? Are there any clubs or associations for owners of Isuzu diesel pickups or any other small diesel pickups of that era?

Thanks
Eric

paisan

I know that planet isuzu and 4x4 wire and ITOG also have diesel sections but very few.

-mike

amigo_john

Chevy Luv pickup. Same truck, different nametag...

rangner

yeah I figured as much. Anybody know of turbo kits for a 2.2L N/A Diesel? Yeah I'd settle for anything except a VW Caddy they'd probably be too quirky.

Eric

amigo_john

Sold it 5 years ago and wished I hadn't now :^(

rangner

So you liked it? Did you mod it at all? It's FWD right, like the rabbit?

Eric

amigo_john

Yes, I liked it. It has the same FWD setup as the rabbit. Not a lot of power but you could fill it up with 1000 lbs of dirt and it drove like it was still empty. Mine was a 1.5 diesel with A/C and a 4 speed. The only thing I would have wanted was a 5 speed as 4th gear was a little too low for the highway. The only drawback is that when diesels leak oil it is nasty black and hard to get off of concrete. (My engine didn't leak.) I took mine on a 200 mile round trip each week and averaged 30 MPG (because of the 4 speed and A/C.)

wheels13

The rear wiper motor is very weak and barely moves back and forward. How do you get the inner rear door panel off the door without ruining it? what could be the matter with the motor since it does move but is not very powerful. Worked fine all winter long. 99 Trooper

emmy

I bought a ‘94 Trooper about 3 months ago. The previous owner had the transmission rebuilt and there was still about 5000 miles on a nontransferable warranty. Then about a month ago I parked my truck and went to pull out of the parking spot and the truck would not go into reverse. Also with the truck on and in neutral it would go FORWARD. Well I got someone to help me out of the parking spot and as I pulled off driving forward in drive the truck make this grinding noise, the noise stopped at speeds above about 10-15mph. A mechanic put in two different transfer cases and the problem is still there. As I was on my way to take my truck to another mechanic the truck was grinding really bad, and now it will not go into any gears at all! Has anyone had this problem? Any help would be greatly appreciated !

cwm

The Starter Motor on my 1998 Isuzu Trooper needs replacing.

Is this something one can do on the ground or does it require it to be put up on a lift?

Thanks

Carl

johnny_ringo

I'm having an issues w/ my '00 Trooper.

- A Restart after a 5-20 minute rest the truck will turn over but not start. If I turn the ignition and give a little gas it starts up and then sputters for about 3 seconds before going to normal idle.

- The truck is fine while running (ie no stalls/sputters/lack of power)

- Cold starting is fine

Sound like a fuel pressure regulator problem? If so, is that fairly straightforward to fix or is it a mechanic-only fix?

johnny_ringo

I'll respond to my own post as an FYI for everyone. I replaced the fuel pressure regulator and the problem is gone. I did notice a lower idle rpm (500) after the change. So, I replaced the plugs and now it's running great.

beer47

just went at 123K. I ordered 2 bulbs from a web site for about 12 bucks. I hope shade tree installation will be easy enough. Dealer wanted $25.57 for the bulb and $27.00 to install. I figured that $12 for 2 bulbs will cover me in case the other one goes. These things "go" in pairs sometimes. Any installation advice would be most welcome. Thanks in advance, Cheers to all!

sdc2

Don't touch the bulb with your bare fingers, the oil from your skin will cause premature failure.

beer47

Do you wear rubber or cotton gloves? Is it hard to access the bulb? Has anyone did this yet? I think I recall some folks changing out stock bulbs for others. Hopefully, it will be simple once I pop the hood to do it.

troop2shos

I've always used clean tissue to handle halogen bulbs over 30 years without a problem. I changed my stock bulbs for the Xtravision's (clear non coated bulb) & got a minor but noticeable improvement with the stock lens/reflectors. As Mike pointed out a long time ago, the Trooper is equipped with a poorly designed lens & reflector.

beer47

Any tricks of the trade for getting at the one next to the battery? Reach in and wrestle with it or is there something I am missing? It looks straight forward enough. Cheers!

sdc2

I just loosened the battery hold-down and slid the battery as far back as it would go on the tray to gain clearance to reach the back of the headlight.

bluedevils

I was able to get at it without moving the battery. I have not worn gloves when changing the bulbs, and I am somewhat of a butterfingers when it comes to doing these types of things - so I'm pretty sure I touched the bulb itself with my bare, greasy hands. In spite of this, the bulbs I've installed (stock Philips brand OEM-style replacements, nothing fancy) have lasted several years.

If I can do this, anyone can.

beer47

I had one HL bulb go out so I ordered 2 from a web site. Got the bulbs in 2-3 days. As I was firing up the grill, I decided to have a go of it. Plug pulls out, white plastic collar comes off and bulb pulls out. Pretty easy so I did both even though only 1 was out. I figured that if both have 123K and 1 goes out, chances are that they both need replacing. I kept the "good" one for the garage inventory as it were. If I can do it anyone can! Cheers to all.
PS: This does not mean, however, that I am now taking up transmission work!

justin

I am looking at used (old school real 4x4) SUV's. I had a rental 2001 Trooper and really liked it. All of the used Troops on the market are 2001 or 2002. Average of 36k miles. On MSN is says that the 2002 has intake gasket problems. Not mentioned on the 2001 models. Does that mean, for a truck with no warranty, a used buyer should look at 2001?

I was reading some posts and it looks like maybe the automatic transmissions are prone to failure?

With Isuzu's questionable future, is a used 2001 or 2002 a safe buy? Will they be supported by Isuzu or any other warranty company? Anyone forsee any problems getting them serviced years from now?

Thanks for input!

jtk152

justin- The Trooper's last year of production was 2002. The intake manifold gasket issue is common on all 1998+ isuzu 3.2/3.5. It's an easy repair job that doesnt cause any permanent engine damage when it goes. The 4L30E auto trans is more reliable than most & can last 150K miles+ with regular maintenance. Finding isuzu dealerships may be a bit challenging as time goes on, but there are many isuzus on the road that will need parts and service, so I don't think we'll be left out in the cold for some years yet.
G/luck
Joel

starman

I just bought a 94 Trooper with 90,000 miles. Evrything looks good and I have had it for 2 weeks now. I just want to know what should I have a mechanic look at and what items might need attention soon.

Also if anyone knows anything about possible problems to look out for I would appreciate it.

luyue

I have a 98 honda passport, the rpm is ramping from 500 to 1000 when the engine is warn, some time it shut off.
There is some leaking noise come from the engine. I guess it is the manifold gasket leaking.
The honda dealer repaired this problem 2 years ago. I just can not believe it come back again.

Maybe there is a design/manufacture defect for this. Now the check engine light is ON.

Any suggestions?

df2000

Yes, it is the manifold gasket leaking most likely. Do it again. You can read code in autozone or advance auto for free. If it something about "lean condition" it just more proof of MG fail.

foreman1063

I did a search but didn't find a good recommendation for disc brake pads on an 02 trooper. Anyone have any suggestions? Thanks, John.

paisan

OEM ones from St. Charles Isuzu. I tow and do lots of spirited driving and find them the best around. Low dust, long life, etc.

-mike

bluedevils

I can't think of why anyone should switch from the OEM Isuzu pads. The amount of brake dust generated is almost nil compared with all other vehicles I've ever owned. And the longevity is truly impressive. We did our first brake job at 75,000 miles on our 1998 Trooper, and the brakes weren't even worn out yet.

foreman1063

Thanks for the info, I'll go with the oem pads from St. Charles, John.

df2000

I just changed original pads up front with 91K mi on them.I used Raybestos PG Plus grade ceramic pads. I used them before, they are OK for 3-4 years/40K mi, very little dust. Local store offers them with 20% off which end up to about $40 and lifetime warranty(free replacement of used pads). Of course OEM Isuzu pads very good, but I just prefare to deal with local guys or we end up just with Pepboys and Advance Auto in the area.