By accessing this website, you acknowledge that Edmunds and its third party business partners may use cookies, pixels, and similar technologies to collect information about you and your interactions with the website as described in our
Privacy Statement, and you agree that your use of the website is subject to our
Visitor Agreement.
Comments
Thanks for f/b.
However, I don't think it really matters that much. At most it probably takes a minute or two for the vast majority of fluid to drain down to the bottom of the housings. At least that is my theory for the diffs and TOD. Granted the engine and AT have many more nooks and crannies for the fluid to drain from and through. By the time you stop the vehicle, find a wrench, and remove the plug; the level is probably "true" in any event. This is even more the case when you give the parts extra time to cool to the touch.
This is what I learned, any brand of gas will have their own kind of residue that tend to build up unless you switch to another brand which cleans up the residue but the second tends to form it's own residue. It was recommended to switch to another brand every few months to prevent residue build up, I switch every fill-up. Bottomline, switch from one brand to another. I also switch from 87 to 91 octane depending on the presence of the ping and then back.
I used to pour chevron techron fuel system cleaner with consistent elimination of ping but it then came back after about 2-3K miles. Now with gas brand and octane joggling, pinging has been well under control.
I am vey sure this is one of a hell very helpful information ofr you 'pingers' out there.
..
I sometimes get a slight pre-igntion pinging, then buy the higher octane for the next tank of gas or two and then go back down. Or sometimes I dump in a bottle of the 3000 mile fuel treatment additive from Valvoline, usually one tank of gas before an oil change to make sure that any of that additive makes its way to the oil it does not stay long. I have always been able to eliminate the ping either by higher octane or by the additive. I had a really great score on the emissions test on my 1995 Trooper when it just finished a fuel additive cycle and oil change. Thank You BoxTrooper
..
On my 1964 Eight Door Greenbriar Deluxe Corvair Van, after nearly every fill up, drive 20 miles, then with the parking brake on and transmission in drive I would go to the back of the van and reach in to the engine compartment through the little trap door and with one hand on the throttle and the other on the distributer I would adjust the timing such that the engine would just barely ping under a fast throttle advance, then snug down the distributer bolt with a 9/16 wrench that I kept back there for the purpose. More advanced timing means more power and better economy, the van needed all the power it could get. Engine computers do this automatically now.
..
Someone once called my 1964 Eight Door Greenbriar Deluxe Corvair Van a "corvair box", I liked practicality in that name, then I bought my first ever brand new car a 1984 Trooper, and the nickname became "Box Trooper", so now you know the rest of the story.
I use chevron fuel system cleaner on top of brand switching.
-mike
"Just saw this in an Isuzu Service Bulletin service (Alldata) that I subscribed to. Net is that 1998 timing belts don't need to be replaced until 100K (not 75K like the original service manual states). One less project for me to do this weekend!
Here's a copy of the service bulletin:
1998 Trooper (UX) / Rodeo (UE) / Amigo
(UA) models
SERVICE INFORMATION:
In the past, the timing belt replacement for the above affected vehicles has been recommended at every 75,000 mile intervals, regardless of driving condition. It is now recommended that the timing belt replacement interval of the above 1998 Isuzu models follow the same timing belt replacement interval as its 1999 model year successor. The new recommended timing belt replacement interval is 100,000 miles for normal vehicle use, and 75,000 miles for vehicles driven under Severe Driving Conditions."
If indeed your shop is good take it back and have them diagnosis the problem. Given your 2 rebuilds they should do at least the diagnosis if not the correct repair for free.
If you want to DIY start with the basics. Are the battery connection tight and clean? What does an ampmeter show for current draw? Is the starter hot after the engine has been running for a while? Is the ignition switch causing working properly? Can you hear it running after startup? etc.
FWIW my take is the same as Sbcooke, namely they didn't do the proper rebuild the first time and now only fixing the brushes is too little too late.
Thanks, Chris
-mike
Chris
..
My 2 cents on the gear ratio change: Isuzu's 3.5L engine is a stroked 3.2L therefore it has more torque and the possibility of more friction loss at higher engine speed due to longer stroke. So, Isuzu made the gear ratio change to make best use of that extra torque at lower RPM. The added benefits are a longer lasting engine and better MPG. I get an average of 1.5 MPG better with the 2001 even though it is a little heavier and the front hubs don't dissengage because of the shift on the fly button control.
The isuzu repair was not very helpful as the diagnostics does not work if the Engine check light is not flashing.
G/luck
Joel
-mike
..
http://www.redlineoil.com/frames/gearoil.htm#80w140go
..
Looks to me like Mobil1 Gear Oil already has the LSD additive, please read it for yourself:
http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/GLXXENPVLMOMobil1Synth- eticGearLubricant.asp
-mike
G/luck
Joel
There seems to be some confusion showing here about how multiwieght oils work. A 80-140w oil is not that much thicker than a 75-90w oil when they both are cold. Namely one is 75w and the other is 80w. The difference comes in at the higher temperatures when 75-90w becomes 90w as the additive polymers unwind. Whereas a 80-140w oil will act like up to a 140w oil.
If you are sticking by the manual a 75-90w oil is only recommended up to 59F. Whereas 80-140w is good to 95+F . I really suspect most everyone here runs their car much more often above 59F than they do below -13F. Hence my take is 80-140w is indeed the way to go in most climates.
2. I heard somewhere, maybe on this board, that the Isuzu limited slip additive was the same part # / spec as the GM version. Not sure if that's true, but I'm inclined to believe it.
3. First rear diff change, I added about 3/4 bottle of the Isuzu limited slip additive. 2nd change (about 2k miles ago), I added about 1/2-2/3 bottle.
4. I've never noticed any funny noises from anywhere in our Trooper's drivetrain. Granted, I'm not that observant when it comes to these things, but if there was a really noticeable thunking or chattering I think I'd notice it.
I had a non limited slip rear diff in my 1995 and I let the shop change the oil and they put in the limited slip addititive. I made them change it again at no charge for the labor because they did not follow my instructions not to use the additive.
..
I am not a lubricant or fluids expert, but by the time you hear a rear diff problem, there can be quite a lot of damage. For the really low cost of another change of oil, you will not have to worry.
..
If you do have problems with lubricant usually that shows up as too much friction and therefore heat. It is winter now and you might not notice heat or the diff oil smell that should come with a hot diff because it might not get hot enough in winter.
..
Damage might be happening. Compare the cost of one more oil change to the rear diff to the cost of replacement. I think it is not worth finding out the hard way.
..
At least consult an oil expert. There is a help line you can find on http://www.redlineoil.com/contact.htm
where you call directly to a knowlegeable oil person and IMHO your situation warrants a call. If you do call, please post what you find out.
..
Thank You
BoxTrooper
David
-mike
Keep'm rolling
There was a similar discussion a while back and I believe I mentioned back then that I decided to use the 75W90 Mobil 1 synthetic gear lube in my 98 Trooper's rear differential, and I don't recall anyone warning me that this could be a big mistake.