Changed out at 15K. Boy, what a smell. Pretty easy but goopy job. Someone a while back said they had cross-threaded the drain plug and I can see how that happened. Had to mess with it to get it started right. Anyway, the magnetic plug did have a glob of shavings so I'm happy to have done the change. Will I need to change out again at 30 or will the Mobil 1 buy me up to 60K? This is a 2WD commuter. Thanks.
You used the 75W90 Mobil 1 synthetic gear lubricant, right? Should be good to 60k on your truck. That's the stuff I use in our 98 Trooper and I am comfortable with a 40-50k change interval.
My take is that you can probably go to 60 or even 75kmis. However, rather than just hoping this works, I strongly suggest you pull the fill plug every 15kmis. If the fluid level is fine and the oil looks good then you should know you are ok. The 5 minutes that it will take to do the check just seems like very cheap insurance to me.
Anybody have similar problem? The rear wiper when switched on works only occasionaly. Sometimes, it works fine, other times it just stay on the wiper rest. Sometimes it works fine then it stay at the bottom for a very long time without doing intermittent strokes and when I switch it off it doesn't go down to the wiper rest. Please help.
How warm or cold should the engine be when checking fluid levels of front axle, rear axle, TOD, and transmission? I don't want to burn myself sticking my finger in the fill/check plug hole, but I don't want to get a false (too-low?) reading by checking when the engine is cold.
I think you are supposed to check the transmission while the truck is running and warm. For the others I don't know...The only advice I can give...make sure you aren't on a hill :-)
With the exception of the AT, for the items noted I tend to do my checks when cold. This just prevents burned finger tips or worse. It also ensures all the fluid has settled to the lowest level.
However, I don't think it really matters that much. At most it probably takes a minute or two for the vast majority of fluid to drain down to the bottom of the housings. At least that is my theory for the diffs and TOD. Granted the engine and AT have many more nooks and crannies for the fluid to drain from and through. By the time you stop the vehicle, find a wrench, and remove the plug; the level is probably "true" in any event. This is even more the case when you give the parts extra time to cool to the touch.
My '99 Passport has been pinging every now and then. I started reseaching until I read a detailed article written by a chemist who used to work at Mobil, formulating fuel additives for mobil gas.
This is what I learned, any brand of gas will have their own kind of residue that tend to build up unless you switch to another brand which cleans up the residue but the second tends to form it's own residue. It was recommended to switch to another brand every few months to prevent residue build up, I switch every fill-up. Bottomline, switch from one brand to another. I also switch from 87 to 91 octane depending on the presence of the ping and then back.
I used to pour chevron techron fuel system cleaner with consistent elimination of ping but it then came back after about 2-3K miles. Now with gas brand and octane joggling, pinging has been well under control.
I am vey sure this is one of a hell very helpful information ofr you 'pingers' out there.
How do I know that switching gas station brands I am not still getting fuel out of the same gasoline delivery truck? Don't they all use the same wholesale gasoline providers and then the wholesalers use the same refineries? Is there a web page for gas stations that tells who buys what from whom? Or is it the case that most of the brands have their own supply all the way back to the crude oil? Does this only work with major brands? Sorry for all the questions, but this is an interesting topic to me. .. I sometimes get a slight pre-igntion pinging, then buy the higher octane for the next tank of gas or two and then go back down. Or sometimes I dump in a bottle of the 3000 mile fuel treatment additive from Valvoline, usually one tank of gas before an oil change to make sure that any of that additive makes its way to the oil it does not stay long. I have always been able to eliminate the ping either by higher octane or by the additive. I had a really great score on the emissions test on my 1995 Trooper when it just finished a fuel additive cycle and oil change. Thank You BoxTrooper .. On my 1964 Eight Door Greenbriar Deluxe Corvair Van, after nearly every fill up, drive 20 miles, then with the parking brake on and transmission in drive I would go to the back of the van and reach in to the engine compartment through the little trap door and with one hand on the throttle and the other on the distributer I would adjust the timing such that the engine would just barely ping under a fast throttle advance, then snug down the distributer bolt with a 9/16 wrench that I kept back there for the purpose. More advanced timing means more power and better economy, the van needed all the power it could get. Engine computers do this automatically now. .. Someone once called my 1964 Eight Door Greenbriar Deluxe Corvair Van a "corvair box", I liked practicality in that name, then I bought my first ever brand new car a 1984 Trooper, and the nickname became "Box Trooper", so now you know the rest of the story.
I lost the webpage, it was long time ago. Anyway, It said there that each gas company add there own propreity additive before they sell there gas. Maybe some never-heard companies just sell gas directly after getting from common source. It claimed mobil has the most number of different additives added. These additives are supposed to improve octane rating and to desolve gum or any sludge in the fuel system. But still, those additives can leave behind deposits therefore it was recommended to switch to different brands from time to time.
I use chevron fuel system cleaner on top of brand switching.
if you can stop the wiper when it is up you might be able to change the blade without opening the spare. I would try turning on the rear wiper and as it reaches the top turn off the ignition key then go swap the blade. I remember being able to change the rear wiper blade on my 1984 and 1995 (soft tire cover) without loosening the spare.
"Just saw this in an Isuzu Service Bulletin service (Alldata) that I subscribed to. Net is that 1998 timing belts don't need to be replaced until 100K (not 75K like the original service manual states). One less project for me to do this weekend!
In the past, the timing belt replacement for the above affected vehicles has been recommended at every 75,000 mile intervals, regardless of driving condition. It is now recommended that the timing belt replacement interval of the above 1998 Isuzu models follow the same timing belt replacement interval as its 1999 model year successor. The new recommended timing belt replacement interval is 100,000 miles for normal vehicle use, and 75,000 miles for vehicles driven under Severe Driving Conditions."
We had the t-belt on our 98 replaced right around 75k. Would have been nice to wait until 100k, but either way I figure we will replace it only one more time in the vehicle's life, MAYBE two. Our 98 Troop is approaching 98k miles. I figure next t-belt replacement between 175-200k miles. After that, I don't think it will be worth fairly costly maintenance items on a 10 year old, 200k mile vehicle.
'95 Trooper with 148k miles. Starter rebuilt in October 2002. After approx. 4 months, starter would not turn over strongly. Back to shop, battery and alternator OK. Got progressively worse until it wouldn't turn over at all. Cycling the key on and off would get it (eventually) to turn over. Starter died again in December 2003. Back to shop where it was rebuilt again. Mech said the brushes were worn down to the nubs (especially on the hot side). Any ideas as to why it won't turn over strongly? (I've already tried different batteries). Thanks in advance.
You're workflow is a little hard to follow? You had it replaced in 10/02 and then it wore out by 12/03? In the meantime you have switched batteries? It sounds like a poor installation of your starter? 7 years on your first and 1 on your second? Is it at the same shop again right now? I would be concerned that they aren't really rebuilding it...maybe back in '02 they just cleaned and lubed it and now it is finally dead? How well do you know the shop? I might consider another place?
Sorry. I trust the shop-it is an auto electrical shop where they remove the starter and rebuild it on-site. I have changed the battery with the same results. Is there someway to check and see if the starter is drawing too many amps and doesn't shut off after the engine is started. It seems like the brushes are continuously energized.
Three upfront points. (1)If they rebuilt it correctly it should now work correctly. Starters typically work for many, many years before failure. (2)Just because a shop has the facilities to do good work doesn't mean they do. (3) Even the best people make mistakes.
If indeed your shop is good take it back and have them diagnosis the problem. Given your 2 rebuilds they should do at least the diagnosis if not the correct repair for free.
If you want to DIY start with the basics. Are the battery connection tight and clean? What does an ampmeter show for current draw? Is the starter hot after the engine has been running for a while? Is the ignition switch causing working properly? Can you hear it running after startup? etc.
FWIW my take is the same as Sbcooke, namely they didn't do the proper rebuild the first time and now only fixing the brushes is too little too late.
Recently drove an '01 model for the first time and noticed the shift points and torque converter lockup points are different (better) than my '99. At about 42-44mph the converter on the '01 would lock, on my '99 you must be travelling at least 47-48mph. My minimum lockup rpm in (3rd or 4th gear) seems to be about 1700-1800 whereas the '01 would lock as low as 1300-1400rpm. Does anyone know if there is a computer mod that would make my '99 behave more like the '01? Thanks for any input... Would love to have mine behave more like the '01. Thanks, Chris
I have a 2001 5 speed manual transmission Trooper and it replaced a 1995 5 speed. The gear ratios are different (70MPH in 1995 was 3100RPM, but in 2001 70MPH is 2700RPM) in the manual as well. .. My 2 cents on the gear ratio change: Isuzu's 3.5L engine is a stroked 3.2L therefore it has more torque and the possibility of more friction loss at higher engine speed due to longer stroke. So, Isuzu made the gear ratio change to make best use of that extra torque at lower RPM. The added benefits are a longer lasting engine and better MPG. I get an average of 1.5 MPG better with the 2001 even though it is a little heavier and the front hubs don't dissengage because of the shift on the fly button control.
I have a 2000 Rodeo LS, lately, few times, the engine stalls (everything shuts off, no engine check light) when the vehicle is in parking - for picking up the mail or not moving - 3 times when I was stuck in a bumper to bumper traffic. First few times it was on cold evening (25 - 30 F), but the last time it was around 55- 60 F, when it happened.
The isuzu repair was not very helpful as the diagnostics does not work if the Engine check light is not flashing.
I've mentioned this before-- our '96 Trooper (3.2L) did roughly 1 mpg better than our '98 (3.5L) Trooper. Both are 4-speed automatics. This makes no sense, since the 3.5L revs lower at the same engine speed vs. the '96 and the '98 is EPA rated for 1 mpg higher both city and highway than the '96. Still, I gladly accept the stronger power of the 3.5L for a 1 mpg penalty.
This is the classic symptoms of a cracked, leaking intake manifold gasket. Isuzu for whatever reason uses a hard plastic/phenolic resin IMG that is prone to cracking- especially during cold weather. You typically notice it at idle (high vacuum) conditions. Truck will stall at idle, make a whistling, humming, air-leak sound from the engine compartment. Will be a freebie fix for you for 10yrs/120Kmi if you are the original owner. 5yrs/60Kmi for subsequent owners. G/luck Joel
Okay folks, tell me if I have made a mistake or not. I changed my differential oil today and put in Mobil One 75 to 90 wt. differential oil. I went to the combo Isuzu/GM dealer and asked for the Isuzu LSD additive, but they gave me instead the GM LSD additive, saying that is what they use to put in Troopers. So, I hoped for the best and put in the GM additive. Still, I wonder if I have done something wrong. I chose Mobil One because I expect to do a lot of towing of my 2800 lb camper in the mountains.
Many already have the LSD friction modifiers in them. This is the case with RedLineOil that I use. In my 2001 Trooper it calls for thicker oil in the rear diff so I used the thicker oil there even though it was synthetic, I was concerned that the thickness had something to do with smooth operation of the LSD clutches and wanted to play it by the book. 75W90 in front and 80W140 rear diff. .. http://www.redlineoil.com/frames/gearoil.htm#80w140go .. Looks to me like Mobil1 Gear Oil already has the LSD additive, please read it for yourself: http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/GLXXENPVLMOMobil1Synth- eticGearLubricant.asp
I agree with paisan, 80w-140 is a bit thick for a trooper rear. OK for super HEAVY duty service or tropical temps, but a bit much for a daily driver. You will get less MPG's with that viscosity in a diff. Mobil-1 and other synthetic lubes have friction modifiers in them already, but you really don't know if your LSD will work with it, unless you try it. Your rear will lock up on tight turns & chatter if it doesn't like the oil/ LS additive (provided the clutch disks are not worn out). If it acts up, dump the diff oil again, add a conventional lube & order a tube of isuzu LSD additive from St.Charles. G/luck Joel
The manual shows 80-140w oil as being recommended down to minus 13F.
There seems to be some confusion showing here about how multiwieght oils work. A 80-140w oil is not that much thicker than a 75-90w oil when they both are cold. Namely one is 75w and the other is 80w. The difference comes in at the higher temperatures when 75-90w becomes 90w as the additive polymers unwind. Whereas a 80-140w oil will act like up to a 140w oil.
If you are sticking by the manual a 75-90w oil is only recommended up to 59F. Whereas 80-140w is good to 95+F . I really suspect most everyone here runs their car much more often above 59F than they do below -13F. Hence my take is 80-140w is indeed the way to go in most climates.
I've done a couple of gear oil changes on my 01 Trooper. At 30k I replaced the front diff with 80W90 and the rear diff with 2qts 80W90+1qt 80W-140 Stalube gear oil and 1 bottle of LSD additive. This fall I replaced the fluids with Pennzoil 80W-90 GL5 in both differentials and didn't even add LSD additive as Pennzoil already has it. I never heard any chatter or other noise from the rear end so I assume the Pennzoil works well. FYI, I'm in Houston, TX and the truck gets only moderate use.
Breakor, what manual recommends 80w-140 down to minus 13F? My 02 owners manual recommends 80w-140 for temps consistently over 50F and 75w-90 for temps between 0F and 90F in the front diff. In the rear, the manual recommends 80w-90 for temps between 0F and 90F.
I drive an 02 trooper LS auto with TOD. The last few weeks prior to doing the 30kmi service, I started to hear and feel a wierd CLUNK some where in the drive train. The only time I noticed it was after coming to a stop, While taking my foot off the brake pedal to accelerate. Since doing the 30k service the CLUNK has disappeared. During the service I replaced fluid in both differentials, Xfer case, changed oil&filter and greased the rear drive shaft. Don't know which item fixed problem but I'd like to hear any ideas.Thanks!
1. I've changed the front and rear differential oil myself two times. Our 98 Trooper is approaching 100k miles. Both times I used Mobil 1 75W90 synthetic gear lubricant, both front and rear. Given the conditions here in Michigan, I was convinced this was a better choice for our Trooper than any conventional gear lube of any viscosity. Here we have frequent 0-32F temps and also some 80+F temps. Our truck does no towing and no off-roading and I think the Mobil 1 is easily up to the job for 50k miles or so.
2. I heard somewhere, maybe on this board, that the Isuzu limited slip additive was the same part # / spec as the GM version. Not sure if that's true, but I'm inclined to believe it.
3. First rear diff change, I added about 3/4 bottle of the Isuzu limited slip additive. 2nd change (about 2k miles ago), I added about 1/2-2/3 bottle.
4. I've never noticed any funny noises from anywhere in our Trooper's drivetrain. Granted, I'm not that observant when it comes to these things, but if there was a really noticeable thunking or chattering I think I'd notice it.
I bought a bottle of additive from my isuzu dealer and it was actually a GM product. I also bought the diff oil from them for $8/qt. I promptly returned it when I discovered they sold me GL-4 instead of GL-5 like the manual calls for. I also found Castrol diff oil for $3.50/qt at Advanced Auto parts so the choice was not difficult. Another thing that made me a little nervous about my local dealer was when the parts guy asked the mechanic about the LSD additive and he said "I never use it". I'll stick to doing my own maintenance!
The official Helm Trooper service manual for 1999 is what I was quoting, page OB-12 to be exact. Since the topic was the rear that is the spec I was noting. There is a different chart for the front.
Just wanted to say how much I appreciate these responses from fellow Trooper owners. So far my rear differential seems to be doing fine with the 75W90 weight Mobil One oil and GM additive. I'll continue running my Trooper this way unless I hear noises. Thanks.
WildBuc, I had a non limited slip rear diff in my 1995 and I let the shop change the oil and they put in the limited slip addititive. I made them change it again at no charge for the labor because they did not follow my instructions not to use the additive. .. I am not a lubricant or fluids expert, but by the time you hear a rear diff problem, there can be quite a lot of damage. For the really low cost of another change of oil, you will not have to worry. .. If you do have problems with lubricant usually that shows up as too much friction and therefore heat. It is winter now and you might not notice heat or the diff oil smell that should come with a hot diff because it might not get hot enough in winter. .. Damage might be happening. Compare the cost of one more oil change to the rear diff to the cost of replacement. I think it is not worth finding out the hard way. .. At least consult an oil expert. There is a help line you can find on http://www.redlineoil.com/contact.htm where you call directly to a knowlegeable oil person and IMHO your situation warrants a call. If you do call, please post what you find out. .. Thank You BoxTrooper
are folks concerned because he used 75W90 and that may be too thin, or concerned because he used a GM spec LSD and this may be the wrong stuff to add?
There was a similar discussion a while back and I believe I mentioned back then that I decided to use the 75W90 Mobil 1 synthetic gear lube in my 98 Trooper's rear differential, and I don't recall anyone warning me that this could be a big mistake.
Comments
Thanks for f/b.
However, I don't think it really matters that much. At most it probably takes a minute or two for the vast majority of fluid to drain down to the bottom of the housings. At least that is my theory for the diffs and TOD. Granted the engine and AT have many more nooks and crannies for the fluid to drain from and through. By the time you stop the vehicle, find a wrench, and remove the plug; the level is probably "true" in any event. This is even more the case when you give the parts extra time to cool to the touch.
This is what I learned, any brand of gas will have their own kind of residue that tend to build up unless you switch to another brand which cleans up the residue but the second tends to form it's own residue. It was recommended to switch to another brand every few months to prevent residue build up, I switch every fill-up. Bottomline, switch from one brand to another. I also switch from 87 to 91 octane depending on the presence of the ping and then back.
I used to pour chevron techron fuel system cleaner with consistent elimination of ping but it then came back after about 2-3K miles. Now with gas brand and octane joggling, pinging has been well under control.
I am vey sure this is one of a hell very helpful information ofr you 'pingers' out there.
..
I sometimes get a slight pre-igntion pinging, then buy the higher octane for the next tank of gas or two and then go back down. Or sometimes I dump in a bottle of the 3000 mile fuel treatment additive from Valvoline, usually one tank of gas before an oil change to make sure that any of that additive makes its way to the oil it does not stay long. I have always been able to eliminate the ping either by higher octane or by the additive. I had a really great score on the emissions test on my 1995 Trooper when it just finished a fuel additive cycle and oil change. Thank You BoxTrooper
..
On my 1964 Eight Door Greenbriar Deluxe Corvair Van, after nearly every fill up, drive 20 miles, then with the parking brake on and transmission in drive I would go to the back of the van and reach in to the engine compartment through the little trap door and with one hand on the throttle and the other on the distributer I would adjust the timing such that the engine would just barely ping under a fast throttle advance, then snug down the distributer bolt with a 9/16 wrench that I kept back there for the purpose. More advanced timing means more power and better economy, the van needed all the power it could get. Engine computers do this automatically now.
..
Someone once called my 1964 Eight Door Greenbriar Deluxe Corvair Van a "corvair box", I liked practicality in that name, then I bought my first ever brand new car a 1984 Trooper, and the nickname became "Box Trooper", so now you know the rest of the story.
I use chevron fuel system cleaner on top of brand switching.
-mike
"Just saw this in an Isuzu Service Bulletin service (Alldata) that I subscribed to. Net is that 1998 timing belts don't need to be replaced until 100K (not 75K like the original service manual states). One less project for me to do this weekend!
Here's a copy of the service bulletin:
1998 Trooper (UX) / Rodeo (UE) / Amigo
(UA) models
SERVICE INFORMATION:
In the past, the timing belt replacement for the above affected vehicles has been recommended at every 75,000 mile intervals, regardless of driving condition. It is now recommended that the timing belt replacement interval of the above 1998 Isuzu models follow the same timing belt replacement interval as its 1999 model year successor. The new recommended timing belt replacement interval is 100,000 miles for normal vehicle use, and 75,000 miles for vehicles driven under Severe Driving Conditions."
If indeed your shop is good take it back and have them diagnosis the problem. Given your 2 rebuilds they should do at least the diagnosis if not the correct repair for free.
If you want to DIY start with the basics. Are the battery connection tight and clean? What does an ampmeter show for current draw? Is the starter hot after the engine has been running for a while? Is the ignition switch causing working properly? Can you hear it running after startup? etc.
FWIW my take is the same as Sbcooke, namely they didn't do the proper rebuild the first time and now only fixing the brushes is too little too late.
Thanks, Chris
-mike
Chris
..
My 2 cents on the gear ratio change: Isuzu's 3.5L engine is a stroked 3.2L therefore it has more torque and the possibility of more friction loss at higher engine speed due to longer stroke. So, Isuzu made the gear ratio change to make best use of that extra torque at lower RPM. The added benefits are a longer lasting engine and better MPG. I get an average of 1.5 MPG better with the 2001 even though it is a little heavier and the front hubs don't dissengage because of the shift on the fly button control.
The isuzu repair was not very helpful as the diagnostics does not work if the Engine check light is not flashing.
G/luck
Joel
-mike
..
http://www.redlineoil.com/frames/gearoil.htm#80w140go
..
Looks to me like Mobil1 Gear Oil already has the LSD additive, please read it for yourself:
http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/GLXXENPVLMOMobil1Synth- eticGearLubricant.asp
-mike
G/luck
Joel
There seems to be some confusion showing here about how multiwieght oils work. A 80-140w oil is not that much thicker than a 75-90w oil when they both are cold. Namely one is 75w and the other is 80w. The difference comes in at the higher temperatures when 75-90w becomes 90w as the additive polymers unwind. Whereas a 80-140w oil will act like up to a 140w oil.
If you are sticking by the manual a 75-90w oil is only recommended up to 59F. Whereas 80-140w is good to 95+F . I really suspect most everyone here runs their car much more often above 59F than they do below -13F. Hence my take is 80-140w is indeed the way to go in most climates.
2. I heard somewhere, maybe on this board, that the Isuzu limited slip additive was the same part # / spec as the GM version. Not sure if that's true, but I'm inclined to believe it.
3. First rear diff change, I added about 3/4 bottle of the Isuzu limited slip additive. 2nd change (about 2k miles ago), I added about 1/2-2/3 bottle.
4. I've never noticed any funny noises from anywhere in our Trooper's drivetrain. Granted, I'm not that observant when it comes to these things, but if there was a really noticeable thunking or chattering I think I'd notice it.
I had a non limited slip rear diff in my 1995 and I let the shop change the oil and they put in the limited slip addititive. I made them change it again at no charge for the labor because they did not follow my instructions not to use the additive.
..
I am not a lubricant or fluids expert, but by the time you hear a rear diff problem, there can be quite a lot of damage. For the really low cost of another change of oil, you will not have to worry.
..
If you do have problems with lubricant usually that shows up as too much friction and therefore heat. It is winter now and you might not notice heat or the diff oil smell that should come with a hot diff because it might not get hot enough in winter.
..
Damage might be happening. Compare the cost of one more oil change to the rear diff to the cost of replacement. I think it is not worth finding out the hard way.
..
At least consult an oil expert. There is a help line you can find on http://www.redlineoil.com/contact.htm
where you call directly to a knowlegeable oil person and IMHO your situation warrants a call. If you do call, please post what you find out.
..
Thank You
BoxTrooper
David
-mike
Keep'm rolling
There was a similar discussion a while back and I believe I mentioned back then that I decided to use the 75W90 Mobil 1 synthetic gear lube in my 98 Trooper's rear differential, and I don't recall anyone warning me that this could be a big mistake.