Isuzu Owners Maintenance and Repair

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  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I think that's what the Street Tread version of the Scorpion AT is called. I've been very happy with my Scorpion ATs

    -mike
  • leedavidyoungleedavidyoung Member Posts: 102
    I'm a big fan of the Bridgestone Dueler. I have had several sets of AT's on Grand Cherokees and Troopers. I've never used the HL's but have always been happy with the ride and tread life on the AT's.

    I recently switched from Bridgestone to Cooper based on price($205 vs. $146 for 285/75 MT's). At work we have Cooper's on our company trucks and have always been happy with the brand. After 6K miles the Cooper's on my Trooper are holding up well and show almost no wear.
  • dstezaladstezala Member Posts: 6
    Really, there is a Cam Position Sensor on the 3.2L V-6 in the 1996 Rodeos. See Haynes manuals for a picture. It is located at the front of the engine bay just behind the belts, near the top of the driver's side flywheel cover, and has a plug running into it. The mechanic who did the rebuild did not swap the block OR flywhell - I was fortunate to be able to have a close friend rebuild it and he retained nearly all of the durable parts, which were machined, and replaced all of the expendable parts. The problem warranting the rebuild was a loss of oil pressure. (When the engine was dissasembled we found rubber/silicon material plugging the oil pump?!?!?!) I read somewhere that this error code on one of the smaller Rodeo engines can be caused by damaged wiring to the plug that fits into the sensor. Can anyone provide pointers on redoing the wiring or any other possible cause of the Check Engine Light caused by the Cam Position Sensor?
  • jtk152jtk152 Member Posts: 139
    Could any of the material caught in the oil pump be traced?? That's pretty scarry - no way of knowing or preventing that one. As far as the sensor thing goes - is their only one cam position sensor on the 3.2 SOHC? That is odd since there is actually two cams, one cam above each cylinder bank - but then again, if the valve timing is set properly- you may only need to read one cam. Did the wiring look ok when you replaced the sensor? Maybe the new sensor is not reading the pickup on the cam sprocket properly. You mension the sensor is on the driver side cylinder bank, check the cam sprocket on that side. G/luck
    Joel
  • armtdmarmtdm Member Posts: 2,057
    I agree. Great tires
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    Replaced the OEM Bridgestone Dueler 684 @ 52k miles with Michelin LTX M/S in stock size (245/70/16). At 85k miles now, and the Michelins still have 8/32 or 9/32" on all 4. Have been pleased with the Michelins, but was pleased too with the original Bridgestones.
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    Sears is running its 'free installation' offer this week (actually, I think it goes through July 22 or so). I called and ordered some; waiting for them to arrive and be installed later this week on our '98 Trooper. Price quote for all 4: $169.37, which seems outstanding. Working backward, this must be $39.99 each plus 6% Michigan sales tax.
  • jtk152jtk152 Member Posts: 139
    That is a sweet deal. Hmmmm... got me thinking about swapping out the marshmellows on my 02 rodeo!

    Joel
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    After 6 months of issues...one of the catalytic converters going...the back pressure from it probably causing the intake manifold gasket to blow and 6 trips to the dealer to have the IMG replaced, I think my truck is running good.

    However with a big family vacation coming up I am left wondering...why did only one of the catalytic converters go? I now notice that idle speed with it in "D" I get a noticeable grumble from the exhaust? It sounds fine while accelerating and driving, it is just while stopped and in gear?

    This is different from before, but I am not sure if that after 6 months of tribulations with emissions, exhaust, etc. could this just be a normal change due to changes with everything else?

    Should I be worried that the other catalytic converter is a ticking time bomb, or on its way out?
  • jtk152jtk152 Member Posts: 139
    Sbcooke- It is possible for only one of the cats to go bad since each is downstream of separate cylinder banks- each handles only 3 cylinders on the newer 3.2/3.5. A blown head gasket, silicon contamination, or a severly rich running cylinder(s) on one bank could cause just its cat to fail. You should be fine if your engine is running well now. Not sure of your year/mileage, but cats are typically warranted for something like 8yrs/80,000mi - hopefully any work has been/will be covered for you. G/luck
    Joel
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    Thanks...it was covered under warranty. I have noticed the grumble at a stop light is only noticeable with the windows up, so it just may be a reasonance thing, since with the windows down it sounds good. With the radio on there is no noise.

    It is hard with the trooper, because it is so quiet (sans highway/road noise), there are no rattles, squeaks, etc that you can really notice a slight variation in noises.

    Perhaps I had the IMG was blown first which maybe caused a combustion problem and caused some fuel to escape into the exhaust? I am glad to be back running smooth again.
  • beer47beer47 Member Posts: 185
    Had it done at 45K and this past Monday at 95K. Definitely a little less "klunk" going from Drive to Park; Park to Reverse, ect. Don't fear it. "You can do it" (from Waterboy) Cheers to all. 2K Trooper S three yrs old on 6/29 with 95K.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    You are totally kicking my butt!

    I *only* have 55K on mine.

    -mike
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    Last summer I had an issue where my temp would go towards "H" while doing 70+ mph? Since then I had my thermostat replaced and my IMG go bad.

    Yesterday while out on the highway, my temp started to rise again? However when I slow or even come to a stop it normalizes and there is no issue?

    I just added my fishing rack? I wonder if between my lights, bull bar and fishing rack if airflow is being effected just enough to cause heat issues at high speeds? Maybe creating a vacuum or something?

    If I had a cooling problem, I would think it would happen at stop lights after a highway trip and not while racing along?

    http://community.webshots.com/photo/64276179/64289015prOqLb
  • jtk152jtk152 Member Posts: 139
    You can likely rule out the T-stat, since that is new, Probably not the clutch fan since you are ok at slower speeds and at a stop. At high speeds your truck relies almost totally on adequate airflow through the grill for cooling. All the goodies mounted in front of the grill have to be the cause. From the look of your pic, that's just too much ahead of the grill. Maybe reposition/ remove the fog lights for the summer - I bet that'll do it. G/luck
    Joel
  • breakorbreakor Member Posts: 398
    Like already noted, poor airflow would likely show up at high speeds.

    Your are right at the point of having problems (e.g. 70+mph in the heat of the summer). Therefore it might be possible to make only a minor change and get by.

    For example, like jtk152 said maybe move the fog lights. Even simpler, it could be the outside of your radiator fins are plugged with bugs and road grime. In which case a good radiator washing may solve your problem. What is the condition of your radiator fluid? If it is very old and dirty that could significantly reduce your cooling efficiency. Similarly, what percentage of antifreeze are you running? Water is the near perfect cooling medium (much better than the glycols in anti-freeze). You may be able to increase your heat transfer rate enough to get by by lowering the anti-freeze concentration by as little as 5 or 10 percentage points. Lastly, you may want to try "waterwetter". That is supposed to significantly improve cooling efficiency.
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    Thanks for the replies. I think the fluid was changed at the same time as my t-stat? It was at my 30K maintenance. My wife already bugged me to take my fishing rack off, but it is a pain. I think for now I will just have to stick to the old double nickel if I am driving on the highway in 90+ temperatures.
  • amigo_johnamigo_john Member Posts: 107
    stay in the middle until they reach the lower limit of the "Hot" range. They only go over to "H" when they hit a certain temp.

    You may be running hotter than normal all the time and not know it until you speed up and make it even hotter.

    You're losing too much air flow from the bumper and fog lights. Imagine going on a 5 mile run on a hot day. Now imagine running with duct tape across your mouth and nose with a little breathing hole punched in the middle...
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    Last summer in 100+ temperatures it went almost all the way to "H" so we slowed down took a lunch break and by 3 PM the temp outside temp broke enough I didn't see a re-occurrence. This time it only slightly moved past center towards "H". I think the gauge is working with some reasonable degree of accuracy. I will however be more careful and aware of my conditions this summer. I may just break down and put the fishing rack in the back of the truck and wait until we get to the beach to put it on.
  • jtk152jtk152 Member Posts: 139
    Sbcooke, another option for you, would be install an electic fan to the outside of the radiator- to pull air in thru the grill. G/luck
    Joel
  • satysaty Member Posts: 23
    My transmission started to make a loud noise shifting from second to third gear and down shifting from 3rd to 2nd also. It sounded like it sliping out of the gear. It never done this before but start having this problem a lot lately. First, I thought the transmission fluid has not warmed up yet but after driving for a while the problem still there. Any suggestions or comments on this problem?
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    I am also considering mounting my lights on the top of my bar? That would put them in sort of a plow type height. Are there any laws I need to be concerned about mounting them there? As long as they are covered I would think I am OK?
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    Been a week or so with the new Monroe Sensa-Trac shocks on our 98 Trooper with 87k miles. I may lose all credibility for saying this, but I really don't notice a difference between the new Sensa-Tracs and the OEM shocks that had 87k miles on them! Maybe I'm just not paying enough attention to it.

    The price was unbeatable, though - $39.99 each x 4 with free installation at Sears, and I knew the old shocks had to go. $169.56 including 6% Michigan sales tax.

    Now that I think about it, maybe the new shocks are noticeably better. The OEM shocks had gotten so bad that the truck was bouncing all over the place on a regular basis when going over bumps, potholes, etc. I don't notice that so much any more, so perhaps the new shocks are doing their job.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I'm gonna go out on a limb and say it's your radiator fins and/or the coolant mixture.

    I have the same bumper and similar lights mounted, but no rack, I can do 70mph pulling my 5000lb race trailer up and down the hills on the NYS Thruway and Adirondack mountains w/o the needle moving at all.

    Try water wetter, I use it in my race cars and it definitely helps bring down the temps.

    -mike
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    I had the coolant flushed at my 30K...the fins possibly, but a quick inspection yeilded nothing I could see with the naked eye.

    I took my fishing rack off and not the lights. I have not had any issue with just the lights alone. I think the round tubes on my fishing rack may cause some kind of wind vortex above certain speeds?

    Another theory is the wind resistance from my roof rack. I have a box carrier up there for summer trips and the combination of that with a fairing may be causing enough of a work load? I have noticed that with the fairing it is quieter, but I get slightly worse MPG on the highway.

    The only time this has occurred was on 90+ days with my full vacation setup (roof gear, fishing rack, etc.) On the same days past 3 PM I could do 75 the whole way without the needle moving, so airflow seems to be most likely culprit to me. Since I cool right down immediately upon coming off the gas.

    For a change...I am not going to worry about it until I have a problem. Knock wood.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Those are probably only the fins on the AC condensor? Or did you check the actual radiator?

    I wouldn't worry about it, but it does seem strange though.

    -mike
  • amigo_johnamigo_john Member Posts: 107
    I had a Golf Diesel that would get hot on +90 degree days. I would have to roll down the windows and run the heater to make the needle go down. I finally took the radiator out and discovered dirt and lots of dog hair (dog hair?) between the A/C fins and the radiator fins. Turns out the A/C fins were twice as wide as the radiator fins and would let in gunk that would stop at the radiator. It wasn't stopped up totally, maybe 40%. Just enough to block some airflow and heat it up on a hot day. Spaying, I mean, spraying the dog hair out with a hose solved the problem...
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    I didn't check that close...I assumed the front of the radiator was it? I may have dirt/mud clogged, but didn't see anything from the outside. I will have to look closer and maybe hose it down.

    I had it checked at the dealer a while ago and they couldn't find anything...which doesn't surprise me since it took the 4 times to determine my intake manifold gasket was blown.

    I will check tonight...it will at least give me an excuse to have a few cold ones and tinker with my truck.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    The "front" radiator is your AC Condenser, the radiator is behind it so you will find that often times leaves, mud, etc get caught between the 2 and so it appears clean from the front and back, but in reality it's jammed up in the sandwich area.

    -mike
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Member Posts: 843
    My brother has a Dodge gasoline pickup Heavy Duty Towing version and they put the extra transmission oil cooler between the A/C radiator and the engine radiator. He thought he needed to add the cooler since his gets and smells very hot, but the recommended cooler is already there, and it is clean. I think his transmission gets very hot due to operator error, running in overdrive towing 8500# trailer driving like he is in a race, lots of gas pedal to the floor then brake pedal hard etc..
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Well, all ATs have built in coolers in the radiators, that's why they usually specify MT v. AT.

    The built in one is not the optimal. Although I haven't added in one on mine and the temp hasn't moved even under race conditions with a 5Klb trailer and towing in overdrive.

    -mike
  • amigo_johnamigo_john Member Posts: 107
    Has anyone tried a 'Flex-fan' on a Trooper, Rodeo, etc. I have put them on 2 different 70's cars, my '74 Cutlass and a friend's '78 Trans Am and it solved overheating problems on both. They are loud but effective and the fan clutch is usually eliminated.

    john
  • wheels13wheels13 Member Posts: 51
    Some time back someone stated that changing antifreeze was a simple DIY project. SIMPLE? I laid under the vehicle and the questions I have are: How do you get to the bottom of the radiator? Then how do you get the drain open?
    Looks like a job to me. Thanks for the help
  • jtk152jtk152 Member Posts: 139
    Not sure what you drive, but for late model rodeos, you'll find a drain valve at the lower right corner of the radiator (plastic wing nut, needle seat type valve). Have to remove the main skid plate to gain access- 4 bolts, real easy. You can either use the drain valve or pull the lower radiator hose. You'll get about a gallon of coolant out of the radiator. You can fill it back up w/ water, run the truck until warm & drain again to do a flush. I just drain a gallon & fill it back up with 50/50 coolant water once a year & do a thourough overflow tank clean/refill. Only do about 12Kmi/yr on my truck, so the coolant always looks nice & clean w/ this method. G/luck
    Joel
  • sdc2sdc2 Member Posts: 780
    Changing coolant is not technically difficult, but it is messy and a pain to deal with the waste coolant for disposal...which is why I pay someone to do it for me.
  • jtk152jtk152 Member Posts: 139
    Sdc2, ethylene glycol based automotive antifreeze can be poured into any sanitary sewer system. It can be easily and safely processed by sewage treatment facilities.
    Joel
  • wheels13wheels13 Member Posts: 51
    Thanks for the replies to item 2511. This is a 99 Trooper. I am able to get the skid plate off but I do not see a drain valve. I am used to seeing what was called a petcock that just turned to open. No such animal on this thing. I would rather not take off the lower hose since they seem to leak after messing with them once. Thanks again, enjoy all the comments on this site over the past 4 years.
  • breakorbreakor Member Posts: 398
    I too have a 99 Trooper and like jtk152 noted the drain valve is on the passenger side, lower corner. If you have an AT, look closely by where the ATF cooler lines are for the wingnut/petcock valve. Yes, it really is there and yes I also missed it when I first went looking.
  • wheels13wheels13 Member Posts: 51
    I think I found the drain valve but it is tight against a hollow rubber rub strip. Did yours also have the rubber strip there and do you have to cut it out to get at the valve to drain? Thanks again.
  • sdc2sdc2 Member Posts: 780
    I used to pour it into the sanitary sewer, but last time I checked (some years ago I'll admit) they didn't want me to do that anymore, and take it to the county hazardous waste dropoff.

    It is still messy, and difficult to get a complete change if you only drain the radiator, so I have the fluid swap machine do it.
  • breakorbreakor Member Posts: 398
    Once I removed the skid plate I did not have to remove, let alone cut out, anything else. Granted it was a somewhat tight fit to get my hand in there to open the valve. Also, it does tend to splash quite a bit once opened.
  • wheels13wheels13 Member Posts: 51
    Gave up! There was a thick rubber spacer up tight to the drain plug. After tearing that off I still am not able, with my large hands,to get at the plug. Painted the skid shield ( Pretty )
    Antifreeze has been in there 5 years so it can last another 3 till I get rid of this trooper. Thanks for the help.
  • breakorbreakor Member Posts: 398
    Wheels13, first let me apologize for calling the plug a valve. I guess I was confusing the Trooper with a prior vehicle. At least I did correctly remember the location.

    Are you sure you found the plug? It is plastic with a butterfly type head. It points towards the back of the vehicle, not downwards. IIRC, and like noted above maybe I don't, it is right under the ATF inlet line (the innermost of the 2 ATF lines on the passenger side bottom of the radiator).
  • pe1227pe1227 Member Posts: 15
    Hi,

    I just bought my 98 trooper just last week at auction and I have noiticed a noise from the AT that sounds like a small diesel engine at startup. It fades after it is warm. Any suggestions.

    My Trooper is SOTF (not TOD). It has 76k. Thanks very much
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    I got some mud up and about on my engine and in the bay. What is the best way to clean it if at all? I used to spray down my old '78 pontiac with gunk and hose it off, however with today's technology I don't want to mess anything up. It isn't too much, but enough to tell that mud splattered up into the compartment.
  • sdc2sdc2 Member Posts: 780
    I use a generic version of Simple Green. Outstanding degreaser, and biodegradable. Spray everything with the cleaner, then somewhat gently hose off (don't blast). Leave the hood up until completely dry (plan for adequate dry time).

    This "touchless" cleaning won't get everything, but will get 95% of the stuff off. You can always have at with a scrub brush if you are really AR about it.
  • breakorbreakor Member Posts: 398
    It could be as simple as a low/high fluid level. I suggest you check that first. Also note the condition of the fluid. If it is dirty read the recent discussion about the dangers of/suggested techniques for flushing high mileage ATs.
  • pe1227pe1227 Member Posts: 15
    Thanks for the response, I have looked at that discussion and I think I will drop the pan and do the change and then the flush 3-5k after that. I appreciate your help.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Yup I do the simple green then blast down the engine bay with the hose. I've used those pressure guns from the car wash on it as well w/o any problems :)

    -mike
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    I was vacuuming out my truck when I noticed the whole back 6" of the cargo area was damp? I had been parked on a slope all night, however it hasn't rained in a while and my last car wash was 2 weeks ago. I lifted the carpet and it was wet enough to see droplets of water? I have a husky bed liner so I am sure nothing leaked or spilled back there. It was wet from the bottom up.

    So either the high humidity keep the moisture in there since the last car wash or something else? I don't think rain would get up there? Very odd. I will monitor next rain storm and car wash. I checked the latch bolt cutouts and there was no water from around them.
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