By accessing this website, you acknowledge that Edmunds and its third party business partners may use cookies, pixels, and similar technologies to collect information about you and your interactions with the website as described in our
Privacy Statement, and you agree that your use of the website is subject to our
Visitor Agreement.
Comments
-mike
-mike
I had kept 35psi in my old 684's.
The new Duelers, probably because they are new, and wider along with the toe-in adjustment, have a different but improved handling feel. There feels to be more 'bounce' going over rough pavement - seems more so than the old 684's.
My questions:
1- you guys agree with the 35psi tire pressure?
2- how about reduced air pressure in front tires - handling improvements?
3- is there a 'break-in' period for new tires?
4- someone posted a website that showed the speedometer error for larger-sized tires - anyone still have that URL?
35psi all around should be fine, maybe a tad higher. The reason for the staggered tire pressure is that if you are loading the rear you want ~5psi higher in the rear to support the extra weight.
reduced front TP would result in worse handling qualities, not improved.
Breakin for new tires is roughly 100-200 miles, need to get the grease off em
-mike
Keep me in the loop when you want to sell it, I may have some interested parties in my family.
-mike
-mike
Will do......
^^Why not keep it for yourself?
Keep me in the loop when you want to sell it, I may have some interested parties in my family.^^
-mike
-mike
I do have a midrange digital gauge and also compare its readings with a $2 pen-type gauge. They are usually within 1 psi of one another, so that's good enough for me.
Also, does the shock upgrade actually improve road handling?
..
I have the OME shocks and OME progressive rear springs and BridgeStone Dueler AT Revo tires and I love the way my Trooper rides, specifically I love the "in control" feeling. The Dueler H/L top of the line touring tire are a little more sofisticated ride on road I had those last time.
..
If you want that "Cadillac Boulevard Ride" in an SUV then get an older Ford Explorer they are a tall cushy station wagon, which most Americans seem to like since they sell the most. The Trooper is far better for off road and towing and crash avoidance and parking because the suspension is set for maximum control not for rear seat pasengers sipping Champaign.
-mike
I believe that this has been an unusual case but the dealership has been great and even though jumping thru all the hoops has been time consuming, I hope to run the Trooper well into the 200K range.
-mike
Good luck.
Any thoughts, reccommendations of what to do.
Also, is there a relationship between Differential Seal and the Vehicle Alignment as both of them blew off at the same time.
Appreciate your help
I guess my point is, if don't exactly trust them, get another opinion from someone who can give you a more accurate answer.
Try a local honda place, you may have to pay more...however this sounds like it is the kind of thing you want fixed once, not make multiple trips to some place wasting more time and money each time.
Thanks,
...Eiji...
You could have an out of balance driveshaft that is causing vibration. I guess that could cause or at least aggravate a leak. I would however think you would feel this vibration problem, especially at higher speeds. It could also be that the driveshaft was put in out of phase that too could cause some vibration.
Unless you have really lifted your vehicle the up/down driveshaft angle should be properly set from the factory based upon the location of the tranny and the rear end. Similarly the side-to-side angle is also preset from the factory. I don't think there is any alignment you can or should need to do. Then again if the vehicle has been in a wreck anything is possible.
As to what to do next, my advice is to go to a shop specializing in driveshafts. They should be able to very quickly dispel/confirm a driveshaft problem. They also should be able to tell you if the gasket was overtightened, causing the leak.
I HTH but I don't claim to be a driveline expert so use the appropriate dose of salt.
-mike
-mike
-mike
I had saved a Champion plug as a trail spare. Consequently I was able to do a side by side comparison. My conclusion is that his Denso plugs looked good but my Champion plugs looked better. Also, the Denso plugs were in much tighter than when I removed my Champions. I am taking this as a heads up that if you leave your plugs in too much over his 4+ years you could be asking for problems.
These are just my observations and conclusions. To be clear, there could be other explanations for the differences. For example his different driving style, maintenance history and/or gas choice could be important factors in plug condition. Maybe his Trooper also came from the factory with higher torqued plugs. Or, maybe the anti-seize coating used on the Champions works better.
1. Timing belt and tensioner is $436.00 parts and labor.
2. Water pump is $246.00 p&l with timing belt.
3. Thermostat is $299.00 p&l and yes you do have to remove the intake manifold.
4. Upper and Lower radiator hoses are $153.00 p&l.
5. Radiator clean and rod out. $45.95 p&l this radiator is plastic and aluminum and
cannot be tanked through radiator shop.
6. Power steering flush is $47.00 p&l
7. Transmission flush is $89.95 p&l
8. Flush ABS brake system and replace new pads and resurface rotors on vehicle. $594.00 p&l
9. Repack wheel bearings $168.00 p&l
10. TOD and rear diff flush. $70.00 p&l
11. Fuel pressure regulator $156.00 p&l
12. AC evacuate and recharge $134.00 P&L
$2439.00 TOTAL
EMIURA, are you still going to the guy in Fountain Valley?
Joel
What is 'fuel pressure regulator?' Is this something that should be replaced as a maintenance item, or can we expect it to last the entire useful life of the vehicle? I've never heard of anyone replacing one of these as preventive maintenance on a vehicle.
What about the A/C evacuate and recharge? The couple shops I asked about the A/C said it's a 'sealed system' and should never need any maintenance unless/until something goes wrong. Since our A/C works fine they recommended doing nothing. Is $100-150 for a recharge smart maintenance, or not necessary or what?
The bearing repack, I would wait until you need a brake job, that way you only have to pay for it once. The AC is not worth it.
The radiator hoses and related work seem like a package, if you get a flush/scrub, it makes sense to include the hose replace.
I think the mandatory items are timing chain and water pump. Those two items should be replaced because failure on them would be very bad. The other items? Failure on them means you would have to pay to have them fixed at the time they fail, not wreck the vehicle.
-mike
part of the country. This dealer is in Oregon, where I visit every year.
Troopers in Oregon are like Honda’s in So.Cal, they’re everywhere. The technician
at this dealer has been an Isuzu certified tech for ten years, they have enough Isuzu
business to keep this guy busy 40+ HRS a week. I’ve dealt with the locals during
the warranty period, I’d rather have a Maytag technician work on it. I’m currently
looking into a independent Isuzu specialist that’s 70 miles away.
I totally agree with the dual charge of labor, that’s simply ridiculous.
Logic says, the guy just threw some numbers together, just to go on to
the next item on his agenda. The one that bothers me most is #3, $300 to change a thermostat? If indeed you have to pull the Intake Manifold to do this, Isuzu must have had a GM Engineer on loan, that’s just stupid!
The A/C and cooling system is a major issue to me, I spend a lot of time out in Palm Desert, CA. during the summer. It can get to 115 degrees easily. The drive over goes through areas that exceed 95 degrees. As you all say, the things that could cause major damage are first priority. The other stuff will just ensure another trouble free few years.