Isuzu Owners Maintenance and Repair

catmandu

Thanks for the info-- will head to Fayetteville tomorrow and see what happens--Thanks again--Mel

sdc2

It looks like I just need to crank on the bolt at the center of the tensioner pulley. I'll give it a try.

boxtrooper

I have used electronic parts where the screwhead is pozidrive and soft for better electrical conduction. A philips looks like it would work, but the angled sides on the philips screwdriver destroy the posidrive almost every time. If using the posidrive screwdriver the chance of the head slipping is very slight, it will shear off the screw before the driver slips.

http://www.mountztorque.com/html/body_power_pozidrive_bits.htm
http://www.mountztorque.com/html/body_pozidrive_insert_bits.htm
http://www.zephyrtool.com/pozidriv.htm

catmandu

Chaulk one up for the great unwashed, Found a screw and bolt shop today. They sold me the right screws in a new hardned alloy for .15 cents apeice. Shot my whole retirement check and bought a dozen. The local Isuzu shop said (after I drove 38 miles to get there) " we dont show those screws, so we will have to order them, take about 10 days". I smiled and left. Got an Impact driver at Sears and a set of screw removers that I will try in a day or so. All is not lost--there is still hope. Thanks --Mel

breakor

They look just like regular old phillips screwheads to me not pozidrive. The problem is that they are a relatively soft, easily strippable brass.

Coincidentally I was in Home Depot today. Now they sell a three pack of the screws in regular steel for $.33. For others heading down this road, if you get them there you want the flat head style not pan head which Home Depot also now carries.

catmandu

The screws the bolt shop sold me have a new allen head instead of phillips. The salesman said they will not strip like the old ones. Mel

fredrickv

I have a 93 trooper 3.2 SOHC 195K km, my fuel rail gas connection point nut is loose and leaking gas, the mechanic tried to tighten it but with no luck it keeps on turning, it smell gas and if you push the tube, the gas will come out. The mechanic said i need a new fuel rail, just wonder how expensive is the fuel rail, any suggestion is appreciated, thanks and i am new in this board

beer47

As I anticipate my 100K service, I was going to have my second flush & fill with the ATF. First one done @ 45K. Someone mentioned to me that there is a filter that should probably be changed inside the tranny. I loath having the tranny taken apart to clean or swap a filter that "may" need it. Do we actually have this filter in our AT's. My Trooper is a 2000 "S" w/about 93K. Also should I have them do the water pump the same time as timing belt? Plugs are OEM as is the PVC valve and fan belt so I know they should be changed out. Pads/repack was done @ 87K. Fuel filter and propeller shaft lube @ 70K. I change the air filter every 20k or so myself. MB1 oil changes are done every 10k. What else am I forgetting that you guys would do at 100K? Thanks in advance for your suggestions. Cheers to all!

jtk152

Beer47, Your tranny (4L30E) has a cloth/felt style filter that should DEFINATELY be changed out by now. Tranny "flushes" do not clean these filters. Some AT's have screen style filters that can be back flushed, but the cloth media in the 4L30E holds the dirt to tightly. I'd do the tranny service, definately change out the spark plugs, PVC & serpentine belt & possibly it's tensioner, check all of the accesories & pulleys for wear & bad bearings. I wouldnt worry about the timing belt 'till around 120Kmi or so & wouldn't bother with the water pump unless it's leaking or noisy. Your 3.5L is not an interference engine, so if your TB was to break, you would not trash your engine anyway. Most reports I've heard, the timing belt still looks great at 100Kmi, besides, your engine/valvetrain and water pump is covered 'till 120Kmi if you bought your truck new. G/luck
Joel

breakor

Jtk152, are you SURE about having to change the AT filter? I called a dealer sometime back and was told it was a stainless steel screen cloth and not to worry about it unless I had let my fluid go too long between flushes. Granted it cannot hurt to change it but you have such a strong recommendation. FWIW, I throughly flush my fluid every 30k or less miles.

Also a couple of years ago I checked the internet to try and determine if the 3.5 is an interference engine. I got about a 70/30 split from belt manufacturer and shop sites showing it to not be/be interference. Also, the Isuzu 800 number told me it was interference but I am not sure they were truly prepared to answer such a question. Ltk152 are you SURE the 3.5 is non-interference?

Please don't take offense at the questions as I am still somewhat confused on these points and more than willing to bow to superior knowledge.

Also, FWIW I would personally do the water pump when doing the timing belt as the incremental labor is next to nothing.

jtk152

Breakor, unless they changed the filter design for the 4L30E this year, yes they are cloth/paper/felt with the typical pre screen, which is stainless steel. This tranny does also have internal "screens" to protect the solenoids/ valve bodies from contaminants. If you plug those, your tranny is toast. If your filter is extremely dirty & impeding ATF flow, your AT is not long for this world. 30Kmi fluid changes is a good idea, as this tranny dirties up the ATF pretty bad after 30Kmi. As far as the "is the 3.2/3.5 DOHC isuzu engine a top end crasher or not?" argument, again, unless they changed this for 2003, it is not. I have yet to hear of anyone with a 1998-2002 who had a timing fail on them w/ the DOHC 3.2/3.5L - BUT, with the timing belt removed, you can roll both cam pulleys without any interference. Someone on the 4x4wire website not too long back confirmed this as he did a timing belt change out on a 1998. My local dealership confirmed this as well. As far as the water pump replacement goes, yep, I would also replace that & the timing belt after the 10yr-120Kmi warranty expires, as this is all covered 'till then (for 2000-2002). G/luck.

jimmyp1

So, even on a 1998, you wouldn't do the timing belt until 100-120k miles? Wasn't there a change in MY2000 or so where the Trooper went from 75k suggested interval to 100k? Ironically, I just made an appointment for next Wednesday to have this done. Now I'm really curious.

Jim

jtk152

Jimmyp1, the manual for my 2002 recommends a t-belt replacement @ 75Kmi for vehicles in "severe service", 100Kmi for "normal service". The thing is, the entire engine, valve-train & even the timing belt itself is covered under the powertrain warranty (10yr/120Kmi for 00-02) it's right in black & white. As I see it, why change it any sooner? If I bought one of these trucks used (p-train warranty defaults to 5yr/60Kmi), I would changout the t-belt before 100Kmi, just due to the fact that I dont know what kind of service the vehicle saw from the previous owner(s). I have never seen a timing belt "look" bad at 100Kmi - not to say that it couldn't fail on you at any moment tho .

breakor

For the response. It sounds like you are about as sure as you can get.

jimmyp1

on the 1998's, it's 60k for extreme use, and 75k for normal use. I'm at 75k, and just started towing a boat regularly. I also bought the truck used, and am way outside any warranty. The 1998's only had 50k mile powertrain warranties anyway. New or used. So, I think I will do everything next week. Oh, also, I think I'm going to get a pretty good deal on the bearing repack. I am doing the 60k tune (late) for $400, the timing belt for $300, and the guy said he'd do the bearing repack for $130 (reg. $190) since I was doing the other stuff. Does the timing belt sound about $50 too high? Should I haggle or is he making up for it in the bearing repack? Thanks everybody.

Jim

jtk152

Jim, $300 for a timing belt replacement is a fair price. This is an involved job even for an experienced mechanic - atleast 4-6 hrs to do. The front wheel bearing repack is also a fairly involved job 1-2hrs per side to do it right. $160 is not bad for that either - although, I would wait to do this until you need front brake work, since you need to pull the hubs apart to turn or replace the rotors anyway. As far as the other $400 ?? Not sure what that is about, but if thats just for a spark plug changeout & fluid & filter changes, thats WAY too much. There is nothing to "tune" on these engines aside from changing s-plugs and maybe adjusting the valve clearances. Valve clearances should be checked at 100-120Kmi, or if/when your DOHC 3.2/3.5 starts to "tick". G/luck
Joel

jimmyp1

are limited to brake pad changes which I've already done a few thousand miles ago. I am just not inclined to do the fluid changes, pcv (?) valve replacement, etc. on my own. Oh, and my engine has ticked from the day I bought it with 19k miles. I realize I'm paying an outrageous price for a lot of "inspection", but I just can't/won't do it myself. I feel like, in the overview, I'm getting an ok deal. Thank you for all the input.

Jim

sbcooke

My 30K service fee included the bearing repack. However I agree with waiting to do the repack until you need brake replacment. A 4 wheel brake job cost me about $400...which included a repack on the fronts.

paisan

All the DOHC 3.2/3.5l engines post '98 (and maybe some pre-98s) ARE INTERFERENCE engines.

The SOHC engines are not interference.

As for the timing belt changes, my guess is that they are 100K interval due to CA emissions warranty law that requires them to be to 100K miles.

On the ATF I'm almost positive that the current ~97-present 4L30 has a screen type filter not cloth, but I'll verify in the shop manual.

-mike

breakor

If it is interference how do you explain jtk152's observation that you can spin the cam pulleys without interference when doing a timing belt change? Granted I guess it could be done even on an interference engine if no piston was at TDC but that would seem an unusual setting when doing a belt change. Then again a partial spin or only one bank spin could also not bring the valves in contact even on an interference engine.

So pending more feedback I guess I am back on the is/isn't interference fence.

breakor

I guess this post answers my question -
"The fact that you can turn over the engine w/o feeling/hearing valves hitting pistons doesn't necessarily mean its a non-interference engine.

We ran into this when we took apart my friends Mustang Cobra 4.6 DOHC to port and polish the heads. Our first attempt at timing, we saw the same thing as you described, crankshaft turned freely never hitting a valve. Knowing it was an interference engine, we assumed timing was right because the pistons never hit a valve. Turns out we were wrong... but luckily we double checked and found the mistake before it caused damage.

Later we were told by a friend and knowledgable ford mechanic, that the tolerances on that motor are so tight, you can be close were it won't hit turning it over by hand, but when you run the thing hard, valve float will still cause the valves to clash into the pistons" This is from here http://www.4x4wire.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=86;- t=001936

Bottom line for me - I will not stretch my timing belt change interval. Even if the engine is non-interference, a broken belt will still leave me stranded. That can never be as convenient or cheap as a scheduled belt change. Just my take.

jtk152

Paisan, have you actually done a timing belt replacement, or had one break on a 1998+ 3.2/3.5?? I can tell you that I havent on either account. From the research I have done, and per my local dealership - who has done t-belt changeouts on these (we know how reliable they can be!) they all say the 1998+ isuzu 3.2/3.5 DOHC's are NON-INTERFERENCE. If they are a valve crasher engine, how do you explain this thread: http://www.4x4wire.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=86;- t=001032
These guys changed out their t-belt, didn't have the pullies lined up right at first, the engine cranked just fine w/out any smashing going on.
Joel

jtk152

Paisan, the last 4L30E tranny filter I changed (1997) was cloth/paper with sceens holding the paper element. The aftermarket filter I looked at for my 2002 (baldwin or wix I think) was also cloth/paper.
Joel

paisan

But everywhere I've read, (Isuzu, etc.) states that it's an interference engine. I don't plan on not doing it at the proper interval.

-mike

breakor

Without doing the "math" it is possible that their 1/3rd off timing didn't result in a piston at TDC at the wrong time. Whereas with a broken belt the valve timing is completely gone. It could also be explained using the logic noted in my previously quoted post (i.e. "that the tolerances on that motor are so tight, you can be close were it won't hit turning it over by hand, but when you run the thing hard, valve float will still cause the valves to clash into the pistons").

Again, I am no expert and I certainly don't know if the engine is or is not interference. However, I will note that I have never seen truly persuasive evidence one way or the other. It tends to be the anecdotal type that is presently under scrutiny.

jtk152

I hear you Breakor, I guess it is possible. I have done t-belt changeouts on various 4 bangers. On those, you couldnt even get 180deg cam sprocket rotation w/out hitting- if the engines were interference. Who knows, until we actually hear of someone who had one break. I know I'll have some serious pucker-factor w/ my 2002 when I get close to, or over my warranty on the original belt. I'll have mine changed at 119,950mi!!!!
Joel

paisan

Be careful. I read over the service manual last night at work. It's 75K for severe use, 120K for normal/highway use. I'm gonna do my at around 90-100K just to be safe.

-mike

jimmyp1

but the Trooper (1998) seems to be showing some early signs of the dreaded IMG failure. I haven't had any stalls, but sometimes when first started, it'll get an up and down idle accompanied by rough running and a deep burble in the exhaust tone, almost like my V8 boat. Oh, and while towing last week, I threw a check engine light which it has done before while towing. It's still on. Manual, of course, just says it's an emmissions thing. I have an appointment for a tune up and a timing belt next Wednesday. Were anybody's symptoms like this?

Jim

breakor

I stumbled across this from bsmart1 while searching for something else. I am not using it as a reference for the screen/filter issue but more as point about the importance of routine flushing for those that may not being doing this.

"All this talk about transmissions brings a couple recent developments to mind. I visited with my local transmission specialist last week about a fluid change. He schooled me a bit on the design and maintenance needs of the Trooper Transmission. . . . The other thing he informed me of is the durability and ruggedness of these transmissions. He is a Trooper owner with over 350,000 miles on a 87' model and ?? on a 97 model. He said the newer transmissions are just as rugged but must not be neglected. It is important to change the fluids at about 30,000 miles frequency since there is no filter. He knew of a transmission replacement on a friends Trooper which set him back about $4000. After he told me about the fluid exchange idea, thats exactly what I did. I took it to a quick lube and had the fluid replaced for $49.99! Its pretty cool, they hook you up to a machine filled with new fluid and the pump in your car cycles the old fluid out and the new fluid in! They remove one line from the transmission cooler and get in-line with their resevoir. You can watch the process as its done. My 97' Trooper has 55,000 miles on it and the fluid that came out looked pretty bad. Color was somewhere between tea and coffee brown. It was needing it for sure. Seems to be shifing much smoother now with less noticable "noise", (water rushing sound) at about 40 mph. . . ."

The complete quote is in post #1432 here - toddswagner "Isuzu Trooper" Jul 6, 2001 12:17pm

beer47

I remember that post! Filter be damned! I'm just doing flush/fill (not drain/fill) and take my chances. Hopefully, I won't blow a tranny until it goes 200K. They it can implode if it wishes!

paisan

The flush worked wonders on my truck @ 50K. It increased milage by 2mpg and made the engine sound less like it was trying to churn butter!

-mike

jtk152

Here's the filter:
http://img.eautopartscatalog.com/live/J501062032.JPG

Joel

paisan

A gasket to me.

-mike

jtk152

to move on to another topic- if an explanation is needed as to where the filter is located in that picture.

Joel

sdc2

Yeah, that sure could be the IMG. Usually it fails in cold weather, but not always.

paisan

Doesn't look like any filter I've seen before, that is why i question it. If you insist on not explaining it, then why post the pic in the first place? Perhaps you are a troll, here to get people fired up rather than inform.

-mike

jtk152

All I'm saying is a smart a-- response like that deserves a smart a-- reply. I am here to research & learn, just like everybody else. You learned something too. Now you know what a very typical tranny filter & gasket kit look like!
Joel

armtdm

Well, that pic looks like my Toyota's transmission filter or it is really a screen and only needs to be blown or cleaned. I am under the ipression (at least on my 97 Rodeo) that th etranny filter is a gauze or filter media similar to an oil filter. Not the screen that is shown. Perhaps I am wrong on this.

armtdm

My 97 has the sealed rubber cap/boot split on the lower ball joints and it does not appear that the rubber boot by itself can be replaced, The entire ball joint has to be.

Any idea on the cost of this? I have tried silicon sealers to hold the grease in etc. but they cannot hold the pressure and the grease leaks out.

jtk152

Armtdm, blown/cracked ball-joint boots is an unfortunate & common occurance. Usually happens when quicky-lube places over-grease / over-pressurize the joint, causing the protective boot to blow out. You just want to grease these enough to cause the boot to expand a little. They have to be replaced as a whole unit. OK to run what you have until they develop any slop. Shops typically charge around $60/each for replacement. On a different note, the 4L30E AT-filter shown above covers 1991-2002, possibly 2003 models. If you look in the p/up hole (surrounded by cork) in the filter, you'll see a fiber/screen type matting. G/luck
Joel

beer47

MB1 oil change w/ OEM filter, (I have to order some more from St. Charles), new fan belt, new platinum plugs, and PVC valve. Runs like "butta".
Funny thing is, it was running good this morning, but I knew I had to get the plugs out of there sometime, as well as change out the 93K fan belt. Now I have to decide on when to do Timing belt, water pump, and whether to let them open the tranny to clean that screen or do a flush/fill and take my chances. 43K on 2nd set of Bstones. I think I can go 10K more on tires until next oil change. Trooper now has 93K. I wish I did all this myself to save some $ but I hired it done. Sometimes you are better off knowing your limitations/time constraints and paying a tech to do it. Just think 14 more payments and she is all mine, "who ever heard of paying off your 4 year note @ about 130K" Oh well, Cheers to all!

dstezala

I have a 1996 Rodeo w/a 3.2 L V6 with 107K miles on it that was recently rebuilt at 105K. The engine runs great but keeps getting a CEL caused by the Cam Position Sensor (CPM). I have replaced it and the error code and CEL keep coming back. Who can provide some insight? Is the CPM supposed to line up somehow with the flywheel beneath the cover that it screws into? If so, the flywheel on mine didn't have any obvious metal component that would appear to pass the magnet part of the CPM. Any hints? Documentation and input from people who know the vehicle well have been scarce. Any input AT ALL would be greatly appreciated

jtk152

dstezala, Do you mean crank postion sensor? I'm not aware of any cam p. sensors on 3.2's. Did they swap out your block on the rebuild? If so, they probably reused your old crank position module electronics, and this module may not be totally compatible with the pickup that is on the "new" flywheel (the short block could be pre 1996 or maybe 1997). May need to reuse your old flywheel to get the CEL to clear. G/luck
Joel

hungund

I have a 94 Rodeo with 81K miles. I see that it is leaking axle oil on both the sides on the wheel side. My neighbor checked and said that I should not see this problem for another 100K miles. Cone on which the bearing moves is loose and the seal also does not seem to be working. How much does this really cost at the dealer or this should be covered by 100k warranty. any comments will be appreciated.

jtk152

Your 94 should have a Dana 44 rear. Normally a very stout, problem free rear end/axle. Only way to stop the leak is have the seals replaced. Probably a $200+ dealer job. As fas as covered under 100K warranty?? I don't know what warranty you have, but if it covers your drivetrain, you shouldnt have to pay for the repair. G/luck
Joel

boxtrooper

What make of rear end is it? Is it Dana or Isuzu? Someday I would like to put a locker in there. Thank You BoxTrooper

sdc2

Isuzu Corporate 12-bolt. I believe there is an ARB air locker that will fit.

emiura

When my 99 Trooper had rear axle seal leak, Isuzu dealer said it's normal seepage and not a problem, but after talking to their service manager, he agreed to repair it under warranty. They should fix it if your vehicle has drivetrain warranty. Here are pictures of that leak on my Trooper:

http://community.webshots.com/user/emiura

lovingpc

I have a '00 Trooper Ltd 2WD that doesn't see off road action, but occasional (1-2 times per year) snow and ice.

With 56K on the odometer, it's nearing time to change the tires. I love the Michelins I have on my wife's Nissan Maxima, and am wondering what experience anyone has had with Michelins on the trooper. I mainly want a quiet highway tire that can push through the rain easily (not an aquatread though - this is Nashville, not Seattle).

What else is good besides Michelin?

Thanks!

Drew
Nashville, TN

boxtrooper

I would pick the Bridgestone Dueler HL because it exposes softer rubber as it wears to maintain good traction. I had a set and they were great for on road, very quiet and great handling. If there will be some off road I would and now have a set of Dueler AT Revo.
..
My brother has a LandCruiser and will only buy the Michelin LTX M/S, and only from a tire store to make sure they are genuine not close immitations that Michelin makes for certain large department or discount stores to sell with a similar look but slightly different name, they are close to the same, but he says the genuine LTX M/S are quietest and that is what he looks for.