Isuzu Owners Maintenance and Repair

boxtrooper

I try always to park level or pointed uphill since the area under the back doors can hold rainwater and while good clean seals will keep it out at the bottom of the door, any litte debris in the seal will allow it to leak in.

sbcooke

Always slope down...the way my street is sloped I always park on the right side and backend lower. My driveway is a steeper slope at the bottom and I was parked there Friday night.

Good point about the debris...I got a lot of sand from vacation out of seals while I was vacuuming. I hope it was just rainwater or a carwash and dirty seals. Time will tell.

sbcooke

I was checking my transmission plug leak to see how much is coming out...not much a few drops a week.

At the same time I checked out my exhaust. There is a mesh coupler after the catalytic converter, it seemed like I could put my finger through it with a little pressure. So right now I have no hole in my exhaust, do I push my finger through and then get it fixed, take it to a shop and have them tell me "no problem found" or wait for a bad time to have it replaced?

I also noticed that when they replaced my cat a few months back, they only put 3 of the 4 bolts in on one side of the frame rail (which they have to remove to replace). Pretty shoddy work by my Isuzu dealer, but that is no surprise to me, I wish I had a closer dealer, it is almost worth paying someone to do the job right.

sbcooke

I ordered the drain plug gasket, some crossmember bolts to replace the ones my dealer left out and a rear tow hook to add a second one up front from St. Charles Isuzu. Very nice experience...No shipping charge. I will see how long it takes the parts to come in, however the guy on the phone was great and very helpful. He didn't mind ordering the $0.61 gaskets alone if that was all I wanted.

High marks for them...so far.

paisan

I ordered my brake pads from them. Great service all around and great prices.

-mike

sbcooke

for the frame crossmember rail.

2 questions...first, the bolt when is slightly on an angle, almost like it was cross threaded? If it goes up tight, should I worry about it. Only slight at an angle?

Second, what do you think I should torque these bolts down to?

paisan

If they aren't x-threaded I wouldn't worry, crank em down to as much as you can tighten it to?

-mike

breakor

Are you sure the crossmember is in there correctly? I don't know but I don't think the bolts should go in at even a slight angle.

Per the manual for my 99, the torque spec for the "third crossmember" (the one under the AT) is 37ft-lb. That sounds a little low to me but the manual should be correct. Then again maybe I don't understand which bolts you are talking about.

sbcooke

It is the only big crossmember, I think it is the one under the A/T.

I originally took a bolt out of this side to find the right size replacement, when I did a lot of rust and junk came out, and the original bolt was quite worn? It is possible that either the threads are off or I just cross-threaded the new bolt? I will tighten it down as per specifications and wait and see I guess. There are 3 other bolts there.

The other side still has a missing bolt, from where the dealer didn't replace it when they replaced my catalitic converter (apparently you have to remove the crossmember to replace them?).

Thanks for the torque specs.

sbcooke

Well I got my crossmember bolt put in, they had to re-tap the threads on the frame. They charged me $14.00 on top of the oil change to resolve it.

While underneath and inspecting, I was reminded of all of the rust under there. There seems to be a lot of rust on the steel, where different parts of the frame rail come together, etc.

Is this something I should worry about? Will the rust eat through the steel or just coat the outside? I don't usually see underneath cars so I have nothing to compare it to.

ostaz

Yes, I would worry about it. I inspect and treat my truck as needed every spring with rust proofing paint and heavy oil. My truck is a 99 and has absolutely no rust.

Not too late to treat rust, use POR-15 or Waxoyl to treat under the car, your truck will last forever.

sbcooke

How do you treat it? Just spray over everything or do you attack problem areas?

It isn't too bad, but something that concerns me. I typically spray with rustoleum on a problem area, but that has only been slightly effective.

paisan

I don't know but there is not really a reason for me to do it. It'll only wind up getting scratched up at the first offroad trip. Go figure. My guess is that your truck frame will outlast the rest of it.

-mike

boxtrooper

I sold my 1984 Trooper when the box frame which had one thin side was reduced to a "C" frame and the rear of the trooper was no longer attached to the frame except by gravity. I found this out while crossing a road side ditch to get to a fishing hole and the drivers side rear wheel rubbed the fender liner, but the spring was not fully compressed and the bump stop not touching. The rubbing was made possible by the passenger side frame dropping way down away from the body. You might say my old 1984 Trooper had excellent articulation that day, but not in a safe way.

ostaz

The simplest thing is to apply POR-15 (POR=Paint Over Rust). It stops rust and inhibits new rust formation. It is VERY tough, VERY hard to scratch, even with a pocket knife.

I would paint all frame members and metal joints. It would take you an afternoon, your truck will thank you for it, and the resale value will be higher.

sbcooke

I did some more spot checking yesterday and it looks like the frame itself is good, it is just in places like where the crossmember supports are welded on. I can see some rust and some peeling of a layer or two off? Only in very small amounts in small places. However now is the time I want to intervene. I think the POR-15 sounds likes the best solution and just attack any problem areas.

Is this stuff regularly available at an autoparts store? Interestingly enough, I have found conflicting reports regarding undercoating. Some web info suggests that any car/truck built after 1992 should not need it due to advances in steel? Although I do have rust...which leads me to believe that "web fact" isn't entirely accurate.

paisan

From my experience and research, I've found it to actually accelerate rust. Any coating on your undercarriage other than paint, will trap moisture between it and your metal and create MORE rust than preventing it.

-mike

ostaz

Paisan is right about undercoating. It hides rust, until it's too late. I good primer/sticky paint (oil or epxoy based) will do the job.

To my knowledge, POR-15 is available direct from the manufacture.

beer47

As we head into winter; how long did your original Trooper battery last? Mine is almost 39 months old and still seems to crank fine, but, I can't help but think that it may seen better days.
I think mine is a Panasonic. Anybody replace with Sears Diehard? Which one? Interstate? I know summer can be tough on a battery but mine have always went down for the count in the winter. With 100K on the vehicle it may be prudent to replace as opposed to waiting for it to fail. Anybody?

jimmyp1

My OEM battery lasted ~3.5 years and I replaced it with a DieHard. I'll have to look and see what kind. I usually have good luck with them. I was actually surprised my OEM lasted only that long. Seems like I've had them go more towards 5 years.

Jim

raydahs

My 99' came with the 80D26R (582 CCA). It started acting up @40 months, took it to Sears ran the test and found that 1 cell was weak.

I also replaced it with a DieHard Gold group 27 (650 CCA) $80.00. The warranty is 36 months full replacement and 100 month pro-rated. Search item 02833027000 on the Sears website.

sbcooke

very soon after 3 years it died. Though OEM is debatable...on the lot when I bought mine the battery was dead, so they gave me a brand new one (obviously a cheap one).

The first sign for me was stalling and then being OK. I thought it was the intake manifold gasket or something, then cranking slowed. It went very fast.

I replaced it with a diehard silver.

leedavidyoung

Mine lasted less than three years. I have a 5-speed, and the battery was smaller than the factory battery installed with the automatics in '99. I replaced it with an Optima Gel.

I have a bad habit of leaving my cargo light on overnight. With my OEM battery this insured a jump start the next morning. It has happened once with my Optima and the Trooper cranked right up.

boxtrooper

I have had two new Troopers (1984 and 1995) and each time the battery lasted just a couple months longer than the warrantee on the label. I expect the battery in my 2001 (assuming it is the original) will last till 2004.
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I replace bucket-of-acid batteries with AGM batteries. The AGMs are available as Optima or Champion or Concord LifeLine etc..
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The advantage of the AGM is 10X lower internal resistance so they don't heat up while charging and low internal resistance yields much higher cranking amps. The gas bubbles are retained in the AGM (Aqueous Glass Mat) right next to the lead plates so the right chemicals are always close by to discharge or recharge at a high rate. AGMs are much more vibration resistant and cannot leak since the AGM wicks up the acid like a sponge. AGMs can be shipped at low cost through UPS. You can even mount them on their side. Electric vehicles use AGMs for their lighter weight (because they are more efficient less mass is needed) and quicker charging times both a byproduct of the low internal resistance.
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But for me the biggest reason to go to AGM is to get rid of corroded terminals and rusty battery box and fender liner.
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If you have accessories like a winch an AGM starting battery can survive being deep cycled 50 times and an AMG deep cycle can be used as a starting battery.
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The AGM in my 1995 Trooper was running great for about 5 years, I let it go with the total because of its age.

wheels13

I found the radiator drain valve at the bottom right side of the radiator. How do you open it? I do not see any grips to turn it and not much room to get your fingers in there. Does it just pop down if pried with a screwdriver? Thanks for any help.

bluedevils

Replaced ours last fall as preventive maintenance on 98 Trooper @ apx 75k miles. We'd owned truck about 3 years, and I presume Isuzu USA did not replace the battery during the year it kept the truck at its California HQ, so the OEM battery was probably 4 years old and still performing fine.

breakor

Are you sure you found the drain plug? Mine has a butterfly type head on it that you grip to get the leverage you need to SPIN it loose. I suppose it is possible yours has had the plastic "butterfly wings" broken off.

My suggestion is to go to a dealer parts department. Have them pull a drain plug for you to look at. Make sure it is what you are trying to remove. Also, look at their parts catalog. It should have a detailed view of the radiator showing the exact location of the plug. If your plug has had the "butterfly" wings broken off then buy a replacement plug while you are there.

bluedevils

1998 Trooper, 92k miles. Most noticeable at slower speeds - at highway speeds it doesn't seem to happen. Happens when vehicle is gaining speed; not noticeable at constant speed. It's been squeaking for a few weeks, and is frequent and loud enough so as to be annoying.

Any ideas on what exactly needs to be lubricated? Are we talking about something inside the cabin near the actual accelerator that the driver's foot presses, or something underneath the truck?

amigo_john

Still on my original battery after 5 years. Still looks new and starts right up every time. I don't take any long trips so I will keep it till is starts dying...

sdc2

Last time my battery died, I was on my way up north. I stopped in a small town to get something to drink, and when I came out my battery was dead. It was about six years old. This was late at night, and no auto parts store for miles.

I was able to get a jump from somebody and get to the cabin, but the next day I had to cough up about twice the normal price for a battery from a hardware store in the small town nearby.

So now my policy is to replace the battery after five years, proactively. They just aren't expensive enough to risk the PITA when they finally do die.

amigo_john

Cold weather kills batteries. It doesn't stay cold down here for long, so that may be why my battery has lasted.

boxtrooper

to start the engine and decreases their capacity a little.
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Hot kills batteries fast, just ask anyone that lives in a hot climate like Arizona how long their batteries last.
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http://uuhome.de/william.darden/carfaq14.htm

amigo_john

It gets pretty hot down here. Maybe I just got a lucky battery ;-) It's one of those AC Delcos that is an Isuzu standard issue. Have never taken it out or even taken the terminals off. Have never jumped anyone else with it either. No hint of corrosion on the terminals. Looks like new. I'm not messing with it until it gives me a reason to.

paisan

My battery is still OEM including running:

CB, Inverter, Cell Charger, Hella 4000s, 80/100w Headlights, Jumping numerous people, and controlling the brakes on the trailer.

3+ years old and still in good shape, I'll probably replace it next spring if it lasts the winter. Interestingly my buddy's truck built the same month had his die at 12 months... Go figure.

-mike

beer47

I have recently heard good things about Firestone "Destination" tires. Something about "Uni-T" construction (?) I think the key is they are made in Japan and not Stateside like some other Firestones (as much as it pains me to say it). B-Stone owns F'stone so I guess they have to make some good well priced tires in order to save that brand name. My B-stones OE and replacement have been pretty good for me so maybe I will give the Destinations a chance. How does everybody like the look of 265 vs. 245? I usually like to keep things stock but a slightly larger tire may look cool. It would differ from my stock spare, however.

breakor

The radiator in our 99 Trooper seemed way too loose to me. You could EASILY wiggle it about 1/2" back to front. I found no loose mounting connections. Also, all the Troopers I subsequently checked at the dealer had similarly wobbly radiators.

Granted I never heard it vibrate while driving. However given how loose it was it seemed like it would have to vibrate into the frame at the top when going over potholes and offroad. My take was that this would be bad for the plastic housing over the longrun.

My cure, FWIW was to take about 9" of 7/16"OD vacuum tubing (i.e. fairly stiff rubber tubing). I cut that into a 3" and 6" piece. I then wedged the 3" piece lengthwise into the passenger top of the radiator (between the frame and the radiator, just under the rubber sealing strip). I similarly wedged the 6" piece on the driver side. After a year the rubber is still there and the radiator is still tight and vibration free.

So, if you radiator seems too loose you might consider a similar modification.

sdc2

Hmmm, never noticed this, will have to check it out!

boxtrooper

I noticed that when I had my 1995 Trooper repaired at a body shop. There was a bracket holding it down top front. I figured that it was bent, so I bent it down to hold tighter. I also added some rubber at the bracket, but I don't remember exactly how, that was years ago.

beer47

With about $250 worth of parts (timing belt, water pump, tensioner) from St. Charles I took my 2K w/103.5K in for timing belt change. Labor was $369, coolant $16.07,Disposal charge $9.95, tax $23.70. Grand Total $418.72 plus parts. Isuzu dealer where I purchased did the labor. I hope I can now cruise to 200K without any major problems. Haven't done EGR valve yet though. Next, need some tires!

paisan

I have a feeling my local dealers over here in the NYC area will rape me like $1K for the timing belt. Might be worth a drive to your neck of the woods.

-mike

beer47

Paisan,

Lester Glenn Hyundai/Isuzu/Subaru (some of your favorite brands!) in Toms River, NJ (Rt 37). I had a Hyundai loaner ('04 Elantra) for a few days. Nice car for the $. Good Luck.

paisan

Thanks man. When I hit 100K it'll get done

-mike

raydahs

Did you see the belt and tensioner after replacement? if so, what condition was it in after 103K? Just curious, I'm at 85k now.

jimmyp1

I had mine changed at 80k miles (98 SOF 4wd) and the tech showed me the belt. I will say he pointed out some "contact points" at each rib on the belt (for lack of technical jargon knowledge)that were clearly not as fresh as new.

Jim

raydahs

good to know, thank you. So just for the heck of it, has anyone actually had a timing belt go? When I say go, I mean does it actually break (shear) like you see on Top Fuel Dragsters, or can it get worn (contact points as you say) to the point of simply slipping one or two cogs causing damage? Sadly, I haven't owned a car long enough to replace one yet.

beer47

I did ask for the old belt back so I could examine. The "teeth" (ridges) looked OK but the composition of the belt was less rubbery and more hardened than the new one I took in to the dealer. I think I could have went longer, but, who knows? It was the right call in my case. Mostly hwy miles with some urban thrown in. I must say I have a few more squeaks and rattles than when new but not many considering the high mileage. I think that if I had the rear doors adjusted, most of my noises would be history. Oh well, lets hope the second 100K are as trouble free as the first 100K. Not the most comfortable vehicle I have ever had but certainly the "toughest". Cheers to all!

jimmyp1

issue several times, with opinions running a little more toward the "it IS" side than "it isn't", so I'll just say that I didn't want to be a part of any experimenting. Oh, and beer47 said it well, the old timing belt was definitely more rigid than the new one that went in.

Jim

raydahs

I got 18 months out of my NAPA blades, does anyone have any blades the swear by?

chaser1

Used Bosch Micro Edge on my Cherokee (were a give away @ Camp Jeep). Felt they were very good @ cleaning, little "chatter", about average life span or a little better. They cost a little more, but I felt they were worth the extra $$$. I presume they make sizes for the Trooper but haven't checked it out just yet as I don't need blades yet on my '02. If interested I'd think that if you searched for something like bosch usa.com you'd be in the ballpark

Just a thought...

boxtrooper

I had been using top dollar fancy wiper blades that would last less than a year. My dad was with me once and insisted I try the ones from his regular auto parts store, NAPA, they are not so fancy, but they look stock and last 1.5 to 2 years.