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Maybe the new gen Yukon borrowed and revised the trooper's TOD and gave it another name.
I went with a Valvoline synthetic blend oil today. Didn't feel into going pure synthetic. I've used valvoline centers (and valvoline oil when I used to change my own for many years) on my vehicles without a problem in the past (at least in terms of oil in the engine) and decided to use them for the trooper--at least for now. Upside is if it does burn a quart before 3000, I can get topped off at no charge. They did not have a replacement gasket for the drain plug but I was there and the guy changing it looked at it and said it was okay. I've heard stories that oil filters at these centers can be cheap and that people recommend the genuine Isuzu filter, but I've never had a problem. I wonder if the genuine Isuzu filter is a real constant and whether the manufacturer likely varies anyways. I did hear a story once, where a place forgot to put oil in the guys engine--no kidding. He was overheating and figured it out. At the valvoline centers they always show you the dipstick on full.
Auto-engaging 4wd, does not vary the torque as the TOD does. Auto-engaging, upon slip, applies 50/50 split to the 2 axles.
4wd Hi = 50/50 split only to be used on wet/slippery conditions
4wd Lo = 50/50 split + double torque
Yukon Denali and Caddy Escalade:
AWD= Center Viscous coupling, similar to the MT Subarus, Jeep GC, GMC Safari AWD This splits torque 50/50 and tries to maintain that if one axles spins faster than the other it shifts power away from it. Similar to a LSD on the rear axle except it's between front and rear, not left to right.
TOD= Varies torque from 0/100 below 5mph with no slippage to 50/50 based on weight distribution, and wheel slippage, engine speed, braking, etc. Generally on pavement above 5mph, you get a 15/85 split. On a downhill off roading you'll get more power shifted to the front to help apply engine braking as well.
4wd lo = 50/50 split + 2x torque
The TOD system is far more sofisticated than the auto-engaging 4wd systems found on GM, Ford, and many other vehicles. I'd rate the systems like the Mercedes and Land Cruiser highests (AWD + Traction control + 4wd lo + locking center diffy) then the TOD types below that. After that I'd say the center diffy AWD ones that are generally a 50/50 split and finally the auto-engaging 4wd systems found on Honda CRV, T Highlander, Escape, MDX, Explorer, Yukon, etc.
Consulted local dealer on how they get fluid into the tranny on this 97 Rodeo, 2WD Auto, no dipstick and the fill plug is straight up (not on the side) and he pulls out the manual and shows me where it is. I say great, but that's not my tranny. He swears it is and we get into it. He finally consults a mechanic who says that I am correct, "THE SERVICE MANUAL THEY HAVE HAS THE WRONG PICTURE"a pain in the butt to fill. Had to design a hooked plastic tubing to get in to the fill hole and once filled you must start the engine and then pull the fill plug and top it off. really really poorly designed tranny pan and filler plug. Also, if you do it, get a new gasket first, mine leaked and I had to drain and fill a second time to replace the plug gasket.
I read you explanation in msg #307 and I finally understand the 4WD/AWD/TOD differences. I do have a question though. I have a '01 Trooper LS - standard with 2WD with TOD. I don't go off-road and if the weather is bad enough to use 4WD, I stay home ;-) My impression is that the 2WD TOD is more or less the traditional LSD (traction control). Does Isuzu do anything special for my model?
2wd Models have a rear LSD, which is basically like the old "posi-traction" of the 70s. It will transfer power left to right on the rear axle from a slipping wheel to a non slipping wheel.
TOD transfers power from rear to front axle based on axle speeds, weight sensors and computer controls. TOD has an advantage over traditional 4wd systems in that it can be used on non-slippery surfaces and provides some power to the front axle even when no slippage is occuring.
Depending on where you live the 2wd should be fine for normal driving conditions.
Go to an Outback Steakhouse -- they have the
Australian version of the 4x4 magazine. The
Trooper will be referred to as the Holden
Jackeroo but essentially the same except it
is Right-Hand drive. Might be a good resource
for some unusal accessories for the Trooper - err
Jackeroo. I especially would like to test drive
one of those desiel versions of the Trooper.
Your idle surge could be a bad fuel injector(s) if you've already had your cracked intake manifold gasket replaced. I had the gasket replaced with the engine check light coming on. After the gasket was replaced it runs great with no surges. Can you smell gas fumes within your engine compartment? Good luck!
I am so jazzed about my new Trooper, thanks to all who have answered questions and offered re-assurance.
Some of the warranties are outrageously expensive, too. Especially if you finance the cost of the warranty in with the vehicle, figure what it really costs you over the life of the loan. If you set aside that much money each month you would probably have saved enough to cover many repairs. Then if nothing breaks, you've got the cash in the bank.
Unless this warranty is somewhere in the $500 neighborhood, my opinion is it's not worth it. And as Troopernewbie said, you need to be damn sure that you're the type of person who will have the maintenance performed and keep the service records. Otherwise your warranty may be worthless.
Consider also the deductible. How much? Per visit or per problem? Etc.
Warm engine - starts at normal idle, 700 rpm
Cold engine (40-60 F?) - starts at 1500 rpm, then slowly goes down to normal idle as it warms.
Very cold (below 40 F) - starts at 2000 rpm, then slowly goes down to normal idle as it warms.
Sometime I even step the gas and maintain 2000 rpm to speed up the warm up.
Sometimes, the warm engine takes longer cranking before it starts and then sputters and fluctuates engine speed before settling to normal idle. It helped when I start the engine immediately after the beeping sound ends. I experianced a lot of hards starts when I tried it BEFORE or LONG AFTER the beeping sound ends
Any thoughts on whether the Isuzu filter is worth almost 9 bucks more than the Fram? Does the Isuzu filter do a better job of filtering? Does it last longer? How good or bad is the Fram filter? Are there other filters anybody would recommend? I’m not really interested in a K&N filter.
It has crossed my mind that Isuzu probably does not make its own filters but rather has a supplier for them. Anybody have any info on which company makes the Isuzu air filters? I'm sure the "Isuzu" name adds a few bucks compared with the supplier's own branded, identical filter.
What's $6 every 30,000 miles!
In my 95 Contour I initially got 2 free Mobil1 oil filters. I don't plan to keep using those @ $10 apiece. I've heard from contour.org folks that the Motorcraft filter is actually pretty good for the Contour's V6. I may switch to Purolator Pure One as a middle ground.
I've heard that Fram oil filters are crap but hadn't heard much about their air filters. I guess I'll probably stick with the Isuzu air filter.
armtdm, I think I might ask you and others on the synthetic oil forum why people seem to think synthetic blend is worse than dino OR synthetic oil.
In terms of air filters, I had mine changed with the oil at valvoline--didn't even check the brand but I looked at the two side by side and the number of pleats etc looked the same. Guess maybe I should be more picky but I haven't had a problem before.
I went with a Valvoline blend (not pure synthetic). I asked about mixing and/or changing over on here before. Most people thought that was not a problem, and that changing to synthetic was no problem on an engine with low miles. First time I've ever gone with a synthetic in any vehicle. I hope it wasn't a bad choice. Interesting someone might think a blend is not good. I'd like to hear why. It is supposed to help on fuel economy and high temp performance. We'll see how it does in terms of the burning a quart in 3000 miles. If pure Valvoline synthetic is even better I might go with that but it seemed a bit pricey if you change every 3000 miles.
And, since tonight it is supposed to get down to -13F, the cold flow capabilities of synthetic can drastically reduce cold start wear...
2 cars with 8,000-12,000 miles/year filter at 6 months oil once a year
1 car 20,000 miles./year, filter at 6,000 oil change at 12,000 miles (total current mileage 61,000
1 car 15,000 miles/year change oil and filter at 7,500, current mileage 131,000
1 car a twin turbo oil and filter at 5,000 miles
Oil (trend) analyis on all at least once a year, no problems noted.
By the way, I've been reading all the posts about lubrication and the best oil I've found is Purple Royal. Check out Royal Purple . om
The dealer said that some 95s and 96s had drive train vibration between 45 and 50 mph and that certain gears or bearings would be replaced in the transfer case if the customer complained. (Isuzu issued a service bulletin.) Of course, my car didn't vibrate at those speeds.
Opposite of your problem: My wife's 89 4cyl trooper has had a rear-end whine since about 70K miles and is at 170K today.
We have owned since new an 89 4cyl automatic. 170,000 miles. At 130,000 it blew a heater hose and overheated After that, it began to use a little coolant, and a little more, and more...
Dealer removed head and saw no cracks. Then it kept using coolant. When really bad, I took it to a specialty shop. There was a crack on the #3 exhaust valve seat.
Had engine fully remanufactured (the works) at a major engine shop near Boston, and saw the crack that was about 1/2 inch long. 40,000 miles later, it still runs great and never skips a beat.
The truck's only on its second set of tires and they're long from worn out. Never has needed front end alignment, either. The only real complaint is the cost of brake work. This thing eats a caliper every other year.
Trooper LS (2WD) have a TOD sticker in the rear window? (That's a rhetorical question) Do they call
the LSD "TOD" just because Isuzu makes the vehicle?
Cracked windshield - turns out there was a tiny rock chip on the extreme edge of the windshield that started the crack that spread when the defroster was turned on on a cold day. Not Isuzu's fault, just my bad luck : ( Will replace in the spring when roads are clear.
Hood protector - got tired of the tapping sound this weekend so I took the silly thing off. Don't have the right tool to trim off the ends (one end broken - one end still tapping the fender) Thinking of just replacing it with a Lund for around $60.00. Looks like a much better design, and it's guaranteed for life. I wonder if we could get Isuzu to recall / replace these stupid hood protectors that don't fit?
Center console rattle. While driving this weekend my wife and I tried to isolate the location of the rattle. Seems to be coming from the transfer case - through the transfer case shifter. It rattles and vibrates like crazy under certain conditions - more so under acceleration, with and without OD engaged. It's pretty annoying. Will try to get into the dealer soon to see if they can fix this. Any advice from owners with similar experience would be appreciated.
Also checked my mileage for the first time last weekend. Took a 100 mile road trip, mostly highway, a couple mountain passes, speeds 50 to 65, regular unleaded, 3300 miles on the odometer, sunny, air temperature 36 degrees, relative humidity 85%, winds calm, dry highway, TOD disengaged, 3 passengers, 250 pounds of gear, and the final mileage figure is drum roll please.......... 18.8 mpg. Pretty close to the advertised figure - hope it improves with time and engine break-in.
I couldn't find the article on the site, but for those who don't know about this magazine here ya go http://www.autoworldweekly.com/
Buy it, it's worth the 3 bucks!
Also, in the next issue: AXIOM!
> oil pressure and or volts if you don't have TOD. If you have TOD you'll have a TOD guage there. That is
> funny that the sticker is on the back door!
I suspect you'e right. I have oil & Voltmeter - no TOD gage. They must've had an extra door laying around
the factory floor that already had the TOD sticker on it. I noticed it when I picked the truck up, but I
figured that Isuzu put the TOD label on both the LSD and 4WD. Well, at least they didn't charge me extra
for it ;-)
Thanks for the clarification.