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Isuzu Owners Maintenance and Repair

145791065

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    gpm5gpm5 Member Posts: 785
    in Torrington CT, I really have had excellent service. I pointed out when I bought my '99 trooper that there were some gouge marks on the right passenger door window strip and that the back cargo doors gasket had some cuts in it. The manager said no problem we'll fix it. I noticed later that the back door locking bracket had been broken off or removed. I called and this was before bringing it in for the stuff above. They said we've got those parts ordered, we noticed that and we're going to fix that too. This is all under warranty. I called about a missing key for my wheels, and they gave me one when I showed up and gave me a bottle of touch-up paint no/charge when I asked. I took that as sorry for us missing the key when we sold it. I recommend them for service, if you're in this area. Its just a great place where people seem to care. You sit down have free coffee and they get the job done quickly.
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    paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I found Open Road to be 1/2 way decent in Edison, NJ, although I think that Flemington Isuzu/Subaru will be near perfect, that's my next dealer to try if I have any need for future service.

    -mike
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    gpm5gpm5 Member Posts: 785
    Over the 1st 1000 miles after an oil change I burned virtually no oil, Since then I've gone to 3400 and burned a quart. A little high IMO and it seems to relate to high speed driving. I'm having it changed at this point.
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    drmperaltadrmperalta Member Posts: 58
    I am not sure who supplies its hardware but current GM 4WD system (including the troopers TOD) is shared with GM. It came from BORG WARNER. The difference is that the trooper has more sphisticated computer programming.

    Maybe the new gen Yukon borrowed and revised the trooper's TOD and gave it another name.
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    gpm5gpm5 Member Posts: 785
    Doesn't the 4WD TOD engage at the transfer case, and is the transfer case also Borg-Warner? I know we have info where the transmission is Borg-Warner. Is the 'viscouse center coupling' that Paisan refers to, function in the transfer case. I'm interested in how these systems work.

    I went with a Valvoline synthetic blend oil today. Didn't feel into going pure synthetic. I've used valvoline centers (and valvoline oil when I used to change my own for many years) on my vehicles without a problem in the past (at least in terms of oil in the engine) and decided to use them for the trooper--at least for now. Upside is if it does burn a quart before 3000, I can get topped off at no charge. They did not have a replacement gasket for the drain plug but I was there and the guy changing it looked at it and said it was okay. I've heard stories that oil filters at these centers can be cheap and that people recommend the genuine Isuzu filter, but I've never had a problem. I wonder if the genuine Isuzu filter is a real constant and whether the manufacturer likely varies anyways. I did hear a story once, where a place forgot to put oil in the guys engine--no kidding. He was overheating and figured it out. At the valvoline centers they always show you the dipstick on full.
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    paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Ok i'll go over it again...

    Yukon:

    Auto-engaging 4wd, does not vary the torque as the TOD does. Auto-engaging, upon slip, applies 50/50 split to the 2 axles.

    4wd Hi = 50/50 split only to be used on wet/slippery conditions
    4wd Lo = 50/50 split + double torque

    Yukon Denali and Caddy Escalade:
    AWD= Center Viscous coupling, similar to the MT Subarus, Jeep GC, GMC Safari AWD This splits torque 50/50 and tries to maintain that if one axles spins faster than the other it shifts power away from it. Similar to a LSD on the rear axle except it's between front and rear, not left to right.

    Trooper:
    TOD= Varies torque from 0/100 below 5mph with no slippage to 50/50 based on weight distribution, and wheel slippage, engine speed, braking, etc. Generally on pavement above 5mph, you get a 15/85 split. On a downhill off roading you'll get more power shifted to the front to help apply engine braking as well.

    4wd lo = 50/50 split + 2x torque

    The TOD system is far more sofisticated than the auto-engaging 4wd systems found on GM, Ford, and many other vehicles. I'd rate the systems like the Mercedes and Land Cruiser highests (AWD + Traction control + 4wd lo + locking center diffy) then the TOD types below that. After that I'd say the center diffy AWD ones that are generally a 50/50 split and finally the auto-engaging 4wd systems found on Honda CRV, T Highlander, Escape, MDX, Explorer, Yukon, etc.

    -mike
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    gpm5gpm5 Member Posts: 785
    Will it have the TOD system with the V8--I mean this is a lot of designing. Anybody want to take a guess at how much space would be behind the 3rd seat?
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    paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I'll shift over to the Future models on this one...

    -mike
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    armtdmarmtdm Member Posts: 2,057
    Converting this newly purchased used Rodeo with 58,000 miles to full synthetics. Oil and filter easy, rear axle okay but no drain plug, only a filler and finally the tranny fluid.

    Consulted local dealer on how they get fluid into the tranny on this 97 Rodeo, 2WD Auto, no dipstick and the fill plug is straight up (not on the side) and he pulls out the manual and shows me where it is. I say great, but that's not my tranny. He swears it is and we get into it. He finally consults a mechanic who says that I am correct, "THE SERVICE MANUAL THEY HAVE HAS THE WRONG PICTURE"a pain in the butt to fill. Had to design a hooked plastic tubing to get in to the fill hole and once filled you must start the engine and then pull the fill plug and top it off. really really poorly designed tranny pan and filler plug. Also, if you do it, get a new gasket first, mine leaked and I had to drain and fill a second time to replace the plug gasket.
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    vivayovivayo Member Posts: 32
    Paisan (Mike):
    I read you explanation in msg #307 and I finally understand the 4WD/AWD/TOD differences. I do have a question though. I have a '01 Trooper LS - standard with 2WD with TOD. I don't go off-road and if the weather is bad enough to use 4WD, I stay home ;-) My impression is that the 2WD TOD is more or less the traditional LSD (traction control). Does Isuzu do anything special for my model?
    Thanks,
    Charlie
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    paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    TOD is not on ANY 2wd models.

    2wd Models have a rear LSD, which is basically like the old "posi-traction" of the 70s. It will transfer power left to right on the rear axle from a slipping wheel to a non slipping wheel.

    TOD transfers power from rear to front axle based on axle speeds, weight sensors and computer controls. TOD has an advantage over traditional 4wd systems in that it can be used on non-slippery surfaces and provides some power to the front axle even when no slippage is occuring.

    Depending on where you live the 2wd should be fine for normal driving conditions.

    -mike
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    cpikecpike Member Posts: 3
    I have a 99 rodeo as with 23000. I have an idle surge when starting the car warm. The idle goes from 900 ram to near 0 several times before it settles at 700 rpm.All things considered it has been a good vehicle. have since new only problems outside of recalls were passenger defroster not strong as driver side and intake manifold leak.
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    cwmosercwmoser Member Posts: 227
    Want to get more Trooper information?
    Go to an Outback Steakhouse -- they have the
    Australian version of the 4x4 magazine. The
    Trooper will be referred to as the Holden
    Jackeroo but essentially the same except it
    is Right-Hand drive. Might be a good resource
    for some unusal accessories for the Trooper - err
    Jackeroo. I especially would like to test drive
    one of those desiel versions of the Trooper.
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    ocelot1ocelot1 Member Posts: 101
    I've read alot of post on other forums and heard that idle surge can come from a leaking intake gasket it seems to happin on the 3.2 I would go to the dealer to have them check it. It also seemed that it was more frequent on earler models 96/97/98 but there could be a host of other things also. please let us know what you find. Tony
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    alcjewalcjew Member Posts: 173
    cpike,
    Your idle surge could be a bad fuel injector(s) if you've already had your cracked intake manifold gasket replaced. I had the gasket replaced with the engine check light coming on. After the gasket was replaced it runs great with no surges. Can you smell gas fumes within your engine compartment? Good luck!
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    gpm5gpm5 Member Posts: 785
    I have an idle surge when starting when cold that fluctuates a bit before it settles in at a higher rpm until warmed up. I believe this is normal, and I think Paisan or someone has commented on that before.
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    cburton58cburton58 Member Posts: 5
    Yahoo.. took the plunge today and finally chose the Alpine White/Gray interior, I pick it up tomorrow morning. Now for the final hurdle.. should I purchase the extented warranty? It is an after market, offered through the dealer that will extend the bumper to bumper to 120k/10 years. I have always purchased the factory warranty, i.e., from Chrysler for example. It seems pretty legit but I just am not sure. This dealer is a highly regarded, I have purchased 3 or 4 vehicles from this dealer, Jack Miller in Kansas City and have nothing but great things to say about them. The way I understand it,the warranty is guaranteeded through the dealer, not the factory? What does anyone think, does anyone have experience with something like this? Repairs are so expensive these days... My real concern is if I am on the road. If I am in the area then the dealer honoring it will be no problem.
    I am so jazzed about my new Trooper, thanks to all who have answered questions and offered re-assurance.
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    gpm5gpm5 Member Posts: 785
    The 60k/5yr would cover you fairly well. I figure if the trooper goes the 60k its going to go for the long haul. The 60k/5yr powertrain covers alot, including even the power steering etc. Also, will you be getting the rest of the 3 yr warranty that is standard? I got that on my '99. My dealer covered everything I found no questions asked such as a bracket on the back door and the back door gasket that has a slit in it. I'm not big on buying extra warranties and didn't think I would need it for the trooper.
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    paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I'm planning on getting the factory extended plan on my truck when it gets near 40K miles. If you are gonna get an extended warranty I suggest the factory one. I know too many people who have been screwed over on the 3rd party warranties. For example the 3rd party says X job cost $Y but the shop says it costs $Y + $200, you are stuck holding the bag.

    -mike
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    paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Hey all, I'm working on the FAQ for the Isuzu section and started putting in information about Gberry's tranny problem that his dealer was working on (small hills it was hunting for gears 2 and 3) Just curious if anyone knows if he had it resolved or not. Thanks.

    -mike
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    troopernewbietroopernewbie Member Posts: 60
    The trick on any extended warranty is to read the fine print over and over until you've committed it to memory. Most require that all service be performed on time and that you keep detailed records. Some require oil changes more frequently than the manufacturer suggests. You have to ask yourself if you're the kind of person that will a)get all of the service done, and b)keep all of the records. If you need and engine at 119K miles and can't produce every oil change receipt over the life of the truck, they will likely deny the claim.

    Some of the warranties are outrageously expensive, too. Especially if you finance the cost of the warranty in with the vehicle, figure what it really costs you over the life of the loan. If you set aside that much money each month you would probably have saved enough to cover many repairs. Then if nothing breaks, you've got the cash in the bank.
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    gpm5gpm5 Member Posts: 785
    I looked more carefully at normal starting just for reference. Its goes to 1500 rpm on starting cold and settles down to 1000 rpm in the 1st 30 seconds. It actually sounds like it is reved higher than it actually is and there is no fluctuation to speak of.
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    bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    I don't think I'd buy it in your situation. You already have powertrain coverage for 10 years / 120,000 miles, and bumper-to-bumper coverage for 5 years / 60,000 miles. The only additional coverage you're getting from this dealer's warranty is 5 years / 60k miles of coverage (for years 6-10, and miles 60,001-120,000) on things other than the powertrain (which is already factory-covered).

    Unless this warranty is somewhere in the $500 neighborhood, my opinion is it's not worth it. And as Troopernewbie said, you need to be damn sure that you're the type of person who will have the maintenance performed and keep the service records. Otherwise your warranty may be worthless.

    Consider also the deductible. How much? Per visit or per problem? Etc.
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    drmperaltadrmperalta Member Posts: 58
    My observation on '99 Passport:

    Warm engine - starts at normal idle, 700 rpm
    Cold engine (40-60 F?) - starts at 1500 rpm, then slowly goes down to normal idle as it warms.
    Very cold (below 40 F) - starts at 2000 rpm, then slowly goes down to normal idle as it warms.

    Sometime I even step the gas and maintain 2000 rpm to speed up the warm up.

    Sometimes, the warm engine takes longer cranking before it starts and then sputters and fluctuates engine speed before settling to normal idle. It helped when I start the engine immediately after the beeping sound ends. I experianced a lot of hards starts when I tried it BEFORE or LONG AFTER the beeping sound ends
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    gpm5gpm5 Member Posts: 785
    What beeping? Yes, I've noticed on the trooper that the start when warm takes just slightly extra cranking time. I often let off on it thinking it was going to start (like cold) and have to crank it again.
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    baddestbob1baddestbob1 Member Posts: 96
    Curtis, would be very interested in your experiences with Jack Miller. EMail me at wailuabob@aol.com
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    basketballkidbasketballkid Member Posts: 25
    I learned the hard way to remember to LEAVE my Trooper in 4wd during the winter months, except for long highway drives. I was doing a 3 point turn in my own driveway and got stuck. I had made the same turn 50 times before. But this time the 4wd was off. Once stuck I could not get the 4wd to engage as I had abolutely no forward or rear motion. I dug myself out and learned a lesson. I only had to dig out enough to get the truck to move a little bit and then the TOD took over. But nothing would happen, except the spinning of the rear wheels until I got some forwrad motion.
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    bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    Is there any reason to use an Isuzu brand air filter in my 1998 Trooper instead of a filter from a different company? In the past I’ve always used Isuzu air filters on my 2 Troopers but lately I’m beginning to wonder if they are worth the extra money. St. Charles Isuzu’s price, which represents 15% off manufacturer list, is about 24 bucks. Recently I noticed that the standard Fram filter is 17 bucks. Murray’s has all Fram filters 10% off right now, so the cost would be $15.30.

    Any thoughts on whether the Isuzu filter is worth almost 9 bucks more than the Fram? Does the Isuzu filter do a better job of filtering? Does it last longer? How good or bad is the Fram filter? Are there other filters anybody would recommend? I’m not really interested in a K&N filter.

    It has crossed my mind that Isuzu probably does not make its own filters but rather has a supplier for them. Anybody have any info on which company makes the Isuzu air filters? I'm sure the "Isuzu" name adds a few bucks compared with the supplier's own branded, identical filter.
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    armtdmarmtdm Member Posts: 2,057
    Interestingly enough, on other makes of cars, using oil analysis I have found that aftermarket oil filters actually do a bettter job then OEM, specifically the Mobil1, Pure One and Amsoil oil filters. On air though, the OEM filters seem to do a better job of filtering then the Frams and Purolators. Fram is garbage for all filters basically!!!!! Just purchased a used Rodeo with 58,000 miles so I have not had time to experiment with this issue as yet on Isuzu. The OEM air filters seem better constructed with the body and number of pleats.
    What's $6 every 30,000 miles!
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    bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    For my Trooper I've always Isuzu brand oil filters, because of the recommendations of Jake, the expert Isuzu mechanic on www.itog.com. I change the Trooper's oil every 3000-3500 miles with synthetic blend, so I don't think I would really benefit from a more expensive and potentially better filter, would I?

    In my 95 Contour I initially got 2 free Mobil1 oil filters. I don't plan to keep using those @ $10 apiece. I've heard from contour.org folks that the Motorcraft filter is actually pretty good for the Contour's V6. I may switch to Purolator Pure One as a middle ground.

    I've heard that Fram oil filters are crap but hadn't heard much about their air filters. I guess I'll probably stick with the Isuzu air filter.

    armtdm, I think I might ask you and others on the synthetic oil forum why people seem to think synthetic blend is worse than dino OR synthetic oil.
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    sdc2sdc2 Member Posts: 780
    Your cold start idle sounds normal to me. The surging when the IM gasket was bad was severe - from almost killing to 1000 rpm once every second or two.
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    gpm5gpm5 Member Posts: 785
    Yes, I think that's normal on the cold start rpm and that is why I thought I'd post it.

    In terms of air filters, I had mine changed with the oil at valvoline--didn't even check the brand but I looked at the two side by side and the number of pleats etc looked the same. Guess maybe I should be more picky but I haven't had a problem before.

    I went with a Valvoline blend (not pure synthetic). I asked about mixing and/or changing over on here before. Most people thought that was not a problem, and that changing to synthetic was no problem on an engine with low miles. First time I've ever gone with a synthetic in any vehicle. I hope it wasn't a bad choice. Interesting someone might think a blend is not good. I'd like to hear why. It is supposed to help on fuel economy and high temp performance. We'll see how it does in terms of the burning a quart in 3000 miles. If pure Valvoline synthetic is even better I might go with that but it seemed a bit pricey if you change every 3000 miles.
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    gpm5gpm5 Member Posts: 785
    The owners manual does say to use an oil that indicates fuel saving, which the blend oil (at least for valvoline) does indicate. Other than that not a lot in the manual.
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    sdc2sdc2 Member Posts: 780
    but I change it every 5K miles. I have considered extending to 7.5K with an additional filter change midway inbetween, but decided 5K is fine. Parts/supplies for an oil change even with Mobil One is under $20, divided over 5K miles is less than 4 tenths of a cent per mile. Pretty cheap.

    And, since tonight it is supposed to get down to -13F, the cold flow capabilities of synthetic can drastically reduce cold start wear...
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    armtdmarmtdm Member Posts: 2,057
    Off the shelf blends do not state what percentage of the blend is synthetic. Some are as low as 10% synthetic which to me is misleading advertising. Thus, not recommended. You can make your own blend by mixing 50-50 synthetic with normal dino oil if you wish. I am biased, I have used 100% synthetic for past 9 years on every car I own, currenlty 5 and it is in the engines, transmissions and gear oils. My change intervals are:
    2 cars with 8,000-12,000 miles/year filter at 6 months oil once a year
    1 car 20,000 miles./year, filter at 6,000 oil change at 12,000 miles (total current mileage 61,000
    1 car 15,000 miles/year change oil and filter at 7,500, current mileage 131,000
    1 car a twin turbo oil and filter at 5,000 miles
    Oil (trend) analyis on all at least once a year, no problems noted.
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    gpm5gpm5 Member Posts: 785
    I noticed today that it jumped briefly to 1500 rpm twice and then it settled in at ~1000 rpm.
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    bsmart1bsmart1 Member Posts: 377
    I've recently purchased a 97' Trooper Limited with 51,000 miles on it. I made a 850 mile trip home in it, all the while, having to listen to an annoying whine (hum mm) coming from the rear of the vehicle. I didn't notice the whine until I got to about 60 mph. At that speed it overcomes any tire / highway noise and it just gets worse as you increase speed to about 75 mph. The only time the (hmmm) went away, was when on a downhill grade with basically no load on the drive train. When I got home I immediately crawled under the car to feel of the rear axle and differentials temperature. The outside air was about 32 I and the metal was quite warm to the touch, but not to hot to keep your hand on it. One other thing I've noticed, when getting between 75 and 80 mph a loud vibration coming from the rear of the vehicle. It remain until reaching about 85 mph and then it smooths out again. I thought this might be coming from the roof built-in rear window air deflector!?? Anyone else experienced this? This is very disappointing after paying what I did for the car. I've checked the level of gear oil in the differential and it was up to the fill hole (normal) and looked normal in color and texture. I did notice when removing the fill plug, a hissing sound like air escaping around the threads of the plug as I removed it. This surprised me a bit. I also own a 1988 Trooper which now has 120,000+ miles on it, and it has never had a noise (hmmm) like this. Is anyone else out there experiencing this kind of problem with their ewer Troopers?? Anyone got any ideas on a cheap fix? Has ISUZU issued any notices pertaining to this?? This is a beautiful car otherwise and I hate to get off on the wrong foot with it.
    By the way, I've been reading all the posts about lubrication and the best oil I've found is Purple Royal. Check out Royal Purple . om
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    bsmart1bsmart1 Member Posts: 377
    While I'm at it I'll ask one more question. My 88' Trooper has been consuming about 1 pint of antifreeze mix a week. I've had it to the repair shop a couple times. They've either said they can find no problem or have no idea what could be happening. The last shop that had it, said it was the freeze plug, which they replaced. But, it still consumes coolant. Anyone got any ideas about this one?? The head gasket was replaced about 1 year ago if that might have anything to do with it.
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    gpm5gpm5 Member Posts: 785
    Could this be tire noise? Those are high speeds if the tires aren't up to the task. What tires are on it at 51,0000 miles?
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    dr1000dr1000 Member Posts: 4
    I have a 96 with the 3.2 engine. Never has rear end whine, but since day one there has been a middle drive train vibration starting exactly at 76 MPH and ending in the mid 80s. This was hard to duplicate at the dealer, but on a lift they did hear it. The transfer case shift knob really vibrates when it does this, proving that it is drive train. I gave up on fixing it and after 65K miles, everything still runs fine, and I ignore the vibration. 65K miles trouble-free do not mean my decision to ignore it is correct.

    The dealer said that some 95s and 96s had drive train vibration between 45 and 50 mph and that certain gears or bearings would be replaced in the transfer case if the customer complained. (Isuzu issued a service bulletin.) Of course, my car didn't vibrate at those speeds.

    Opposite of your problem: My wife's 89 4cyl trooper has had a rear-end whine since about 70K miles and is at 170K today.
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    dr1000dr1000 Member Posts: 4
    It's my night to tell both trooper stories. The 96 story is above. The 89 story follows.

    We have owned since new an 89 4cyl automatic. 170,000 miles. At 130,000 it blew a heater hose and overheated After that, it began to use a little coolant, and a little more, and more...

    Dealer removed head and saw no cracks. Then it kept using coolant. When really bad, I took it to a specialty shop. There was a crack on the #3 exhaust valve seat.

    Had engine fully remanufactured (the works) at a major engine shop near Boston, and saw the crack that was about 1/2 inch long. 40,000 miles later, it still runs great and never skips a beat.

    The truck's only on its second set of tires and they're long from worn out. Never has needed front end alignment, either. The only real complaint is the cost of brake work. This thing eats a caliper every other year.
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    vivayovivayo Member Posts: 32
    Paisan, I read your note that 2WD models don't have TOD. I can understand that, but why does my '01
    Trooper LS (2WD) have a TOD sticker in the rear window? (That's a rhetorical question) Do they call
    the LSD "TOD" just because Isuzu makes the vehicle?
    Charlie
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    paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Perhaps your truck is mis-labeled? What guages do you have on the dash? On the left side there should be oil pressure and or volts if you don't have TOD. If you have TOD you'll have a TOD guage there. That is funny that the sticker is on the back door! :)

    -mike
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    radman6radman6 Member Posts: 81
    A few weeks back I posted a few maintenance issues with my 2000S 4WD, auto. Here's the latest update:

    Cracked windshield - turns out there was a tiny rock chip on the extreme edge of the windshield that started the crack that spread when the defroster was turned on on a cold day. Not Isuzu's fault, just my bad luck : ( Will replace in the spring when roads are clear.

    Hood protector - got tired of the tapping sound this weekend so I took the silly thing off. Don't have the right tool to trim off the ends (one end broken - one end still tapping the fender) Thinking of just replacing it with a Lund for around $60.00. Looks like a much better design, and it's guaranteed for life. I wonder if we could get Isuzu to recall / replace these stupid hood protectors that don't fit?

    Center console rattle. While driving this weekend my wife and I tried to isolate the location of the rattle. Seems to be coming from the transfer case - through the transfer case shifter. It rattles and vibrates like crazy under certain conditions - more so under acceleration, with and without OD engaged. It's pretty annoying. Will try to get into the dealer soon to see if they can fix this. Any advice from owners with similar experience would be appreciated.

    Also checked my mileage for the first time last weekend. Took a 100 mile road trip, mostly highway, a couple mountain passes, speeds 50 to 65, regular unleaded, 3300 miles on the odometer, sunny, air temperature 36 degrees, relative humidity 85%, winds calm, dry highway, TOD disengaged, 3 passengers, 250 pounds of gear, and the final mileage figure is drum roll please.......... 18.8 mpg. Pretty close to the advertised figure - hope it improves with time and engine break-in.
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    paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I had a similar vibe on my '97 rodeo and my '00 Trooper. After 5K breakin, the vibes went down a lot.

    -mike
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    raydahsraydahs Member Posts: 449
    For those interested in reading a good article about Synthetic Oils, AMI Auto World Weekley dated 2/27 with the yellow Pontiac Vibe on the cover, has a very good overview on this subject. They talk to Engineers at Mobil and GM about the history and go in depth as to who should be using it, alot of your questions will be answered. I drove mine home from the dealer with 10 miles on it, and changed to Valvoline full Synthetic. I changed it at 3000, 6000 and 9000 miles, then I switched to 7500 mile intervals because 80% of my driving is HWY. I plan on keeping this thing for 10 years, I'm averaging @25K a year and have no doubts about this truck going 250K.

    I couldn't find the article on the site, but for those who don't know about this magazine here ya go http://www.autoworldweekly.com/

    Buy it, it's worth the 3 bucks!

    Also, in the next issue: AXIOM!
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    armtdmarmtdm Member Posts: 2,057
    Could be something as simple as the radiator cap loosing its spring pressure over time and releasing small amounts of gas/steam over time.
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    gpm5gpm5 Member Posts: 785
    So from what I gather blends may be a manufacturer ploy if the % is not stated, but overall a blend is supposed to be good for your engine (i.e. decrease varnishing, decrease high temp burn off under high rpm, decrease wear, etc.) Maybe not as good as pure synthetic but if one changes a blend more frequently--every 3000-5000, this may be as good as changing a pure synthetic every 7500.
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    armtdmarmtdm Member Posts: 2,057
    You are probably correct but why not simply mix your own blend in lieu of using a product where you may know the synthetic percentage used? If you change your oil in the 3-5,000 mile range you will probably go as long as if you used a synthetic. I like the fewer drians due to the hassle of doing them which is a mina reason I use synthetics. Plus, some comfort factor in case of extreme heat or cold.
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    vivayovivayo Member Posts: 32
    > Perhaps your truck is mis-labeled? What guages do you have on the dash? On the left side there should be
    > oil pressure and or volts if you don't have TOD. If you have TOD you'll have a TOD guage there. That is
    > funny that the sticker is on the back door! :)
    I suspect you'e right. I have oil & Voltmeter - no TOD gage. They must've had an extra door laying around
    the factory floor that already had the TOD sticker on it. I noticed it when I picked the truck up, but I
    figured that Isuzu put the TOD label on both the LSD and 4WD. Well, at least they didn't charge me extra
    for it ;-)
    Thanks for the clarification.
    Charlie
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