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Isuzu Owners Maintenance and Repair



  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    That's pretty cool. I'd offer to go check out the 2wd ones here and see if that is a widespread sticker, but here in the NE they don't order 2wd ones unless someone pays for it in advance ;)

  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    Just another reminder that ordering Isuzu parts via phone from St. Charles Isuzu near St. Louis is fast, enjoyable, and cheap…

    Yesterday I ordered an air filter and 2 oil filters for my 1998 Trooper from St. Charles Isuzu (800.727.8066 or The parts guy gave me the oil filters for St. Charles’ sale price of $3.55 each, which is 30% off manufacturer list of $5.07. The air filter was only $15.51 - much cheaper than I expected. Last January I ordered one from St. Charles for $24.40. At 15% off mfr list, this means mfr list was $28.70. The mfr list on the one I bought yesterday was only $18.25. At $15.51, the Isuzu filter from St. Charles is cheaper than the Fram I've seen at Wal-Mart and Murray's ($16.97).

    Also, the guy mentioned that St. Charles frequently sells items on Ebay, which I was not aware of. I plan to check out Ebay and see what St. Charles is offering. The guy also mentioned that they sometimes auction off a coupon for 30% off list on any entire order. If anybody is thinking about genuine Isuzu upgrades such as running boards, fog lamps, etc. this would be a great way to save more money than St. Charles normally saves you, and way more than buying from your local dealer.

    For those who don’t already know, shipping from St. Charles is free.

    I’ve had excellent experiences every time I’ve ordered from them and recommend them highly.
  • islander21islander21 Member Posts: 43
    I have a 2WD, no TOD sticker on mine. But then again, I don't need no steenkeen steeker.
  • gpm5gpm5 Member Posts: 785
    Well from my reading of the manufacturers descriptions, they indicate that they blend "base oils" i.e. refined oil and synthetic oil. At that point I assume detergents or other additives go in. Potentially mixing two oils could lead to degradation in performance (by my way of thinking) particularly if let's say the detergents are not compatible. The oil may be compatible enough to add a quart of regular oil to synthetic if needed but may not be designed for a 50:50 mix on a regular basis. Just my thoughts.
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Member Posts: 377
    These are Goodyear Wranglers 240 70R 16's I believe. They are practically new and product very little road noise. They do not have a very aggressive tread pattern. I'm quite sure the noise I'm hearing is not coming from them. That axle vibration thing might just be it. What is the remedy though? Well, I've sent the 88' back to the shop today. We'll see what comes of it. I bet on the internal leak of some kind. Maybe a leaking head gasket or hairline crack. This engine has NEVER been over heated though, so I don't know why there would be any internal cracks.
    On this lubrication discussion... I've used Mobil 1 in a 96' GMC Van since day one and never had a complaint. Sure like the extended time between oil changes too. What grade oil are you late model Trooper owners using in your vehicles?? The alder one 88' I've always used 10W-30 but I know a lot of ewer vehicles are using "gas saving" 5W-30. Any recommendations here??
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    This is in response to some discussion of the topic in the Meet the Members forum...

    I will double-check the owners manual for my 1998 Trooper, but I thought it specified a 30,000 mile change interval for TOD system fluid. I know I wouldn't have changed it unless changing it was specified in the owners manual somewhere.

    Any moron can change it-- I did! The first time was an accident while trying to change the engine oil. I was nervous about what to do for a while-- couldn't figure out how to get fluid back up there since the fill plug faces downward. Finally a guy at an auto parts store sold me a $3 hose thingie that attaches to any quart-sized ATF or oil bottle. It takes a while with this method, but fortunately the capacity of the TOD system is only 2 quarts. And you probably won't get the full 2 quarts of old ATF to drain out, so you'll likely need only about 1.5 quarts of new stuff.
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    Well I must have been smoking something when I thought I read in my owners manual that the TOD system fluid should be replaced every 30,000 miles.

    The owners manual for my 98 Trooper says the TOD system fluid should be CHECKED every 30,000 miles. It says nothing about actually replacing the fluid. I wonder if the "check" means checking the fluid level or somehow checking the condition of the fluid. The former is easy enough - just unscrew the drain plug and feel in the hole with your finger for the fluid. The latter I have no idea how you would check without actually draining the fluid and looking at it. Once you've done that, you would basically need to replace it because it wouldn't seem smart to put used fluid back in there.
  • troopintroopin Member Posts: 19
    I recently changed all the fluids on mine. The only one that was really NASTY was the TOD. It was easy for me to justify. Put $2.50 every year into new Tod fluid or wait for this wonderfull thing to crap out and cost big $$$$$$$$$$ to fix. I do tend to stay off the beaten path so mine was possibly dirtier than others. The Euro spec Troopers do not have TOD. Mine is very unique here in Iceland. I think of it as a Land cruiser that cost me less than a Cherokee. Keep Troopin and GO Farther! Troopin.
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    I have never attempted to change fluids other than the engine oil on a few vehicles and the TOD fluid on my Trooper (drained by accident the first time, so changed it out of necessity!). Are some of the other things such as the auto trans fluid, front and rear axle fluid, and power steering fluid actually easier to change than the TOD fluid? There isn't much skill involved in changing the TOD fluid, but it is a time-consuming, tedious process.
  • gpm5gpm5 Member Posts: 785
    bluedevils- what were you trying to change when you opened the TOD drain plug? I would probably be able to figure out the oil drain plug (near the front) but would likely be less effective at determining the TOD (transfer case) vs the transmission fluid drain plugs. Are there any other drain plugs down there? Also, did you just lay under the truck to do it?
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    gpm5, your first sentence made me laugh at myself. I was trying to change the engine oil. This was my first attempt to change the oil myself on any vehicle, so I really had no idea what I was looking for. People who are really into cars probably assume that anyone can get under a car and easily identify some of the "obvious" things. Well, I can't!

    Yes, I just lay down under the truck for changing engine oil or TOD fluid. It's a tight squeeze for the TOD fluid since you need to have the quart bottle of ATF (2.0 quarts TOD capacity) standing up with a hose and nozzle pumper thing (technical term) attached to it, but there's enough room. It's nice to not have to worry about the vehicle being on ramps, plus leaving it on the ground ensures the vehicle is level.

    I don't know how many drain plugs are under the truck. I'm not sure exactly where the trans drain plug is. The TOD drain plug is a couple feet from the engine oil drain plug. The TOD reservoir also has a fill plug, which is up higher (further away from the ground). I'm glad it was the TOD fluid and not the auto trans fluid that I drained by mistake-- the TOD takes only 2 quarts but the AT takes something like 9!

    I've been debating whether to replace the auto trans fluid. The problem I have is that there's such a wide disparity between Isuzu's owner's manual recommendation for what to do on severe duty schedule (replace fluid every 20k miles) vs. regular duty schedule (replacement never specified; only periodic inspection).

    One of these days I need to buy the factory shop manual from Helm. I'm working with a Chilton's Trooper manual, but it covers only through 1996 Troopers. Many of the mechanical components are the same, though.

    In the case of the oil change, I had photocopies of the relevant underbody components from someone who has the factory shop manual, and I still couldn't find the right d**m drain plug!
  • gpm5gpm5 Member Posts: 785
    bluedevils--more dumb questions--So do you fill through the top reservoir hole? I presume you check the fluid with your finger through the top hole as well? I presume checking it doesn't cause any real loss. Is it supposed to be filled to the brim or is there air space. Thanks for the info, although I don't know if I'll change it any time soon, although I may check it.
  • spirollispirolli Member Posts: 50
    Here's my take on these common rattles and noises that most of us seem to be hearing with our 2000 Troopers. You may think I am a little much when it comes to rattles and what I have done in an attempt to correct them. However, rattles make me absolutely crazy. Once I hear one, it's like I'm on a mission to get rid of it and won't rest until I do. That may be alittle much for a truck owner, since you would typically expect rattles in a truck... but that's me. Anyway, here it goes.....

    Rattle In Rear Cargo Area:
    Don't let the dealer [non-permissible content removed] you. I can almost assure you that it's not your rear windshield wiper blade hitting your rear spare tire cover at speeds of 65+Mph. I had the same problem, only my noise happened at all speeds, intermittently. It took 4 visits to the dealer to correct. After the 4th visit, I was basically nuts. I had my wife drive the truck, while I sat in the rear cargo area in an attempt to determine exactly where this friggen rattle was coming from. It turned out to be coming from the rear cargo doors. Actually the latches in the rear cargo doors. The doors were simply not aligned properly and needed to be adjusted by the dealer, which fixed the problem. In order to confirm it's the rear cargo door latches on your Trooper, try this simple test. Open your rear doors. You'll see two hinges on each door. On the hinges you'll notice a plastic pre-hinge that slides back and forth over the metal hinges. With the doors open, quickly slide the plastic hinge back and forth until it hits on either side. See if this noise is the same noise that you hear when the truck is moving. If it is, you've found your rattle. Show the dealer and tell him your doors are out of line and to fix the problem instead of trying to [non-permissible content removed] you with some wiper blade crap.

    Rattle In Dash:
    This is one hell of a annoying rattle. Sounds like a buzzing (alarm clock)sound coming from directly behind the odometer. It is definetly temperature sensitive. It only happens during cold weather 40 degrees or below. It is also more sensitive to engine RPM's then speed. If the engine is spinning at a given RMP, I hear the rattle regardless of speed. Although it is pretty constant at 60Mph. I have had it back to the dealer twice already. The first time they told me they couldn't hear the buzzing sound (despite the fact that I dropped the car off the night before so they would get a truely cold start). The 2nd time they re-insulated the rubber stripping around the entire instrumentation panel. It did not fix the problem. I am scheduled to take the truck in this coming wednesday. We'll see. My patience is wearing thin with this one. If they don't hear the buzzing sound this time, they are simply not listening for it. I may take Mike's advise and drive the car along with the technician. This way I can stick his head right up against the dash board to make sure he hears it.

    Tapping Sound (Hood Guard):
    This is another one that has me nuts and stumped. I noticed it after the Isuzu hood guard was installed. It sounds like a tapping crackly sound at 60Mph+. I hear it more during warmer weather then colder weather, I think. I spent 3 nights last week trying to identify where exactly the noice is coming from, to no avale. I can tell you where it's not coming from. It's not coming from the hood guard. I've placed foam rubber spacers in every possible area between the gaurd and hood where there could even possibly be the chance of the plastic gaurd tapping against the hood. Tapping still there. I then went to the bumper, tightened it up, installed foam rubber in any and every possible area that made a sound. Tapping still there. I installed foam rubber underneath both of those cheesy wheel well platic shields on the under side of each wheel well. Tapping still there. Duct taped any wires hanging down underneath the engine and inside the engine. Tapping still there. Tightened up the hood guides under the front and rear of the hood. Tapping still there.
    I plan on explaining this to the dealer when I take the truck in this Wednesday but there are 2 things I am going to try before Wednesday. 1- check the gas lines that run across the firewall. I had the second recall done but it's still worth a look. 2- check the weather stripping around the front windsheild. I noticed (on both of the bottom corners of the weather stripping) that if you slightly push down on the bottom corner of the outside, front windsheild weather stripping, it makes this crackling/tapping sound. My thought is that the hood gaurd causes air to push and pull against this part of the stripping, causing it to make that annoying sound. I will duct tape them down and hit the highway at 70+MPh to do a test. If I still hear it after this I am at witts end.

    I'll keep you all posted. And please let me know if there's something I've missed.

  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181

         I'm going to write up that rear door rattle fix and put it on my faq page on Once you hammer out the others keep us posted so we can post up those fixes as well. You also might try a different dealer.


  • spirollispirolli Member Posts: 50
    Good idea posting that on the FAQ's. (rear door rattle) It was a tough one to find and can save some owners a lot of aggravation

    I'll keep you posted on the rest of the issues.

    As far as the dealer goes, Davis Isuzu in Richboro PA, is pretty good as far as dealerships go. Don't forget, this is the dealer that repainted the fender flares on my 2000 Limited after the paint literally peeled off from an off roading trip I went on during the PA hunting season this past fall. I was climbing rock covered slopes with the Trooper like I was on dry pavement. The rocks were kicking up big time and just removed the some of the paint from the fender flares. It was definetly my fault, but the dealer re pained the flares anyway. They also touched up any other nicks they found. I really can't complain about Davis.

    I dig what you've done to your web site. It looks great..!

    Talk with you soon Mike.

  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    The "fill" plug is the one further from the ground-- "top reservoir plug" as you called it. It's used for adding fluid and for checking the current level. As long as the TOD system isn't way overfilled, there should be very little fluid that comes out of the fill plug when you remove it to check the fluid level. I don't know the physics of why the fluid doesn't spill out of the fill plug, but it doesn't. You may get a few drops to come out but that should be about it. All I remember is that you should be able to feel the fluid in the fill hole with your finger. I think most of the fluid is lower in the TOD pan than the fill hole, so maybe that's why it doesn't drain out of the fill hole.

    I do know that the last time I changed the TOD fluid it had been in there about 30,000 miles. It was definitely not as fresh-looking and cherry red as when it was originally added. This doesn't necessarily mean the fluid was unable to do its job, though. My Trooper has TOD engaged for only about 10% of the miles it's driven-- on rainy days and snowy days only; otherwise I leave it off for fuel economy reasons.
  • radman6radman6 Member Posts: 81

    Thanks for your post on the rattles. The hood protector wrap around wings on my 2000 S were tapping on the fenders at 60+ mph. Mine wasn't hard to trouble-shoot. I could actually see it tapping while I was driving by leaning to the left and looking from the extreme left side of the windshield. It was also leaving a small transfer on one fender.
    The acid test to is just to take the hood protector off and see if the tapping stops. Is it too late to return your hood protector and use the money to buy a better designed aftermarket model?
  • cmunizcmuniz Member Posts: 604
    This weekend while driving with my wife on a bumpy country road I heard a tapping sound coming from the front of the car. Since we don't have a hood protector I was a little concerned. It turned out to be the passenger side sun visor was down and hitting against the windshield. Once she repositioned it, it quit tapping. FYI
  • nahcirenahcire Member Posts: 9
    any suggestion or tricks that anyone can share in terms of removing the hard sparewheel cover. I unhooked the clips on the bottom but still have a hard time removing it. I was afraid to break the darn thing if I pulled too hard.

  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Undo the clips and spread the bottom pieces out, this should let you lift and pull backward.

  • twnisbetttwnisbett Member Posts: 11
    Hi. I recently had to replace a spark plug because oil had fouled it. I was told that this could be a major problem. This is a '92 Trooper with 125K miles, and I'd like to hang on to it, but if it's going to be a major cost to repair, maybe I'll rethink that. Any comments or suggestions? Thanks!
  • sdc2sdc2 Member Posts: 780
    Bluedevils - I wasn't trying to discourage you from changing your TOD fluid, it's just that I had pored over the maintenance schedule very carefully at 15K to make sure I was getting everything, and I noticed that TOD and AT fluid were NEVER scheduled for a change. I was just wondering if you knew something I didn't...

    That said, I plan to take the Troop to Jiffy Lube or similar to get a total AT fluid swap, but probably not till 50K or so. I will also change the TOD fluid and spark plugs around 50K. I know the plug change interval is 100K on my 99, but I have heard that a plug can be very hard to remove after sitting in there for 100K. Spark plugs are cheap, until you break one off trying to remove it!

    Other than that, I plan to follow the normal maintenance schedule for most of the fluids.
  • chrismiller1chrismiller1 Member Posts: 7
    Hello everyone,

    My hood protector tapped at road speed also. The problem was easy to remedy. Just take a little self sticky felt pad ,easily purchased at Home Depot or the like, cut it into 4 pieces and apply to the rubber pieces on the deflector. It takes about 15 seconds and I have never heard another sound from the guard.

    Hope it works for you,
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Member Posts: 377
    OK, here's a new one for you. Where the beck did they put the dip stick for checking the automatic transmission fluid on the 3.2L engines. I've got a 97' Trooper and I've read the owners manual front to back. They show you everything under the hood (supposedly) but I've found nothing referring to the automatic transmission dip stick. They show a lot about the manual transmission but not the auto. I've raised the hood and looked everywhere, in all the nooks and cranny but haven't found it. Any ideas??
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    I'm pretty sure there is no dipstick. To check the fluid level, you need to remove the fill/check plug underneath the truck.
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Member Posts: 377
    Old Trooper's still at the shop, and they're still trying to find out where the leak is. Every effort is being made to avoid taking the engine apart. My bet is they end up replacing a head gasket to fix it. I'll keep you posted.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    on the 3.2 and 3.5l engines there is no dipstick. There is an AT idiot light. I never touched the one on my '97 rodeo for 120K miles I had it.

  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    In the past week or so, I've been reading several hundred old posts on the synthetic oil and engine oil topics in the Maintenance area of Town Hall.

    It appears that the amount of synthetic oil in the "synthetic blend" oils (Castrol Syntec Blend, Valvoline Durablend, etc.) is frequently as low as 10%. It's definitely not a 50/50 synthetic/dino oil blend. If you do the math, it's easy to see that synthetic blend oil is a ripoff at $2-2.50/quart. You could mix your own 50/50 blend, which most of the folks on those forums seem to think is perfectly safe, for about $2.50 quart ($4/qt for synth and $1/qt for dino) and have a much higher synthetic percentage.

    This makes me feel a little stupid, because I've been running synthetic blend in my Trooper for the past 30,000 miles. I'm planning either to switch to full synthetic or switch to a homemade 50/50 blend of dino/synthetic.
  • organiczoneorganiczone Member Posts: 3
    when cold I hear a whiling/swishing noise coming from engine on drivers side, which gets slightly louder with more speed. after warm-up noise disappears. after 5 miles riding, when I come to a stop the idle oscillates bet. 200 and 800rpm for a moment, then stabilizes. on rare occasions at a stop with clutch in, there is an idle surge to 1500rpm. is this leaking intake manifold gasket? (6 cyl. 3.2, 5 sad. 4wd) please advise.
  • gpm5gpm5 Member Posts: 785
    Well, that certainly makes me wonder about the blends as well, since 10% is not likely to be of much use. I'm not sure about going with pure synthetic at the valvoline shop (I think thats $40) but it may be worth it if the trooper can go 5000 or so miles on it plus I get a top off at 3000, if needed. I don't mind changing oil myself (especially since crawling under the trooper is easy) except for the clean-up. I hate dealing with the used oil, putting it into a jug, and lugging it away etc.
  • armtdmarmtdm Member Posts: 2,057
    Yea, my son just got a 97 Rodeo 3.2L so I picked up a Haynes manula and decided to change the tranny fluid. No dipstick, first auto tranny I have ever seen without a dipstick. WOW. I saw the fill plug and it is not on the side of the pan but straight up. Although I have a fluid pump I was not sure I could get the tube into the fill hole. So, I gave it to my local mechanic to do. He called and said, no way, I don't think I can get the fluid in either. So, I took some plastic tubing. molded a hook (like a fish hook) out of it over the stove and decided to try it. OH, "Do not remove the fill plug when the engine is NOT running" to check the oil via the fill plug the engine MUST BE RUNNING. Yes, running. Otherwise fluid will drain out through the fill plug. That is in the Haynes manual and confirmed by the dealer. So, I drained the fluid and pumped in new synthetic fluid until it came out of the fill plug, started the engine and then pumped more in until it again seeped out. At that point you put the plug back in and drive off. One major suggestion, get new plug gaskets, 14mm. After I did mine both plug gaskets leaked so I wound up doing it twice.

    Second time took me 15 min once I knew what I was doing. The fluid pump and hose made a huge difference.
  • cconnorcconnor Member Posts: 2
    My '98 Rodeo is about ready for its 30,000 mile maintenance and I was just wondering what anyone out there might be able to tell me regarding their experiences at the dealer for this maintenance. I guess I'm just trying to find out if I really need to take it to the dealer for this service. If so, what really needs to be done (I know what the service manual says). Also, does anyone have any estimates as to what I should expect to pay?? Thanks in advance.
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Member Posts: 377
    Thanks for the info on the automatic transmission fluid change. I think I'll take it down to the transmission shop and have it done. Hopefully they'll not refuse to do it. By the way, I've been looking for a Haynes maunal for this 97' Trooper and not found one yet. Where did you get yours and what is the books # ??
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Member Posts: 377
    Thanks for the info on the automatic transmission fluid change. I think I'll take it down to the transmission shop and have it done. Hopefully they'll not refuse to do it. By the way, I've been looking for a Haynes maunal for this 97' Trooper and not found one yet. Where did you get yours and what is the books # ??
    Another question for anyone who knows. Are there multiple stock sizes of tires supplied on Troopers? I'm looking for a spare tire cover to fit P245 60/R16's. Anyone know what part # is needed for the right cover for this? I've been given several #'s as what is supposed to fit, but I'm not sure which is the correct one or one's.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    For the troopers. I too have been looking for manuals for the 97-01 Troopers.

  • armtdmarmtdm Member Posts: 2,057
    Found my Haynes manual at a Trak Auto, also seen them at Advanced Auto and they also have a web site. I am not sure they have one for the Trooper though.
    Phone # is 805 498-6703
    The book # for the 97 Rodeo is 47017
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    I don't know about Haynes, but Chilton does not have a manual for 97 or newer Troopers. Their Trooper manual covers through 1996.

    If you're really serious about maintaining your own Trooper, order the factory workshop manual from Helm Publications at
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    Paisan, a small correction: stock tire size is 245/70/16, not 245/60/16.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Blue, you are correct, I don't know why I keep thinking 60, maybe cause I've had subarus on the brain and my XT6 takes 205-60-14s

  • sdc2sdc2 Member Posts: 780
    Last time I checked (about 8 mos. ago) there were no manuals available for late model Troopers, other than the shop manual from Helm. You can order from Helm online.
  • john303john303 Member Posts: 14
    I have a 94 trooper S with 96K on it. I've noticed that for some reason the engine/trans doenst repond to depression of the aaccelerator. Also the engine bogs and doenst shift down automatically when i press down on the accellerator.

    Also when hot, the engine will start, but once i put it in "d" it will bog and sometimes stall. Then yesterday, When i attempted to restart it after running at hwy speeds for say 30 minutes, it wouldnt start. Then when it did start it stalled.

    Does anyone have a clue into what is amking this happen? im thinking its something to do with the fuel/air injectors, O2 valve, fuel pump...thanks

  • lovingpclovingpc Member Posts: 34
    To dredge up a rattle topic - I heard a new one recently (2000 Ltd 2WD Auto) that I thought was in synch with my wipers. It is a distinct click, almost electrical like a switch clicking. It seemed to click as the wipers hit the right side of the sweep.

    However, later that weekend I drove it in dry weather and I heard that same click at seemingly random times. It seems to be coming from the steering column, or the dash right behind it.

    I had a "cold weather" click down near the Transmission Shifter, which sounded like a little person tapping on the bottom of the truck right under the shifter. It has since stopped since the winter weather left us.

    Any ideas on my dash/wiper click?



    PS: No TOD sticker on mine either. Other than that, I don't think there is any way for the untrained eye to tell the difference from 2WD and 4WD from the outside. Even that sticker is hard to see...
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Member Posts: 377
    Just got the call from the repair shop...bad news he says. The head is warped and the camshaft is tettering in its journal bearings. I figured they would have to take the engine apart to find this coolant consumption problem. Just didn't think it would be this drastic a problem. They will have to replace the head with a remanufactured one. It's going to cost a pretty penny but she's served me well for about 12 years, so what else can I do?? Should run like a new one when they're finished. Shop says they will warranty it 12 months or 12000 miles. The inspected the lower unit and said there is hardly any wear, good testimony to Pennzoil I suppose and I had treated her with Slick 50 a couple times. Heres to another 10 years in old Troop!!!
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    You could probably get a rebuilt motor for about $1500. It might worth investigating.
  • basketballkidbasketballkid Member Posts: 25
    Has anyone noticed that radio reception is adversely affected when a cell phone antenna is installed on one of the rear windows?

    This is probably a silly question, but I have to ask it. Is there a way to secure the second row seat when folded forward. It came craching down on me once and freaked me out.

  • gpm5gpm5 Member Posts: 785
    There are anchor straps in the compartment in the back of the center console (a little hard to get them out sometimes) that strap each half of the seat tight.
  • organiczoneorganiczone Member Posts: 3
    hello, I have a 98 Isuzu Amigo 6 cyl. 3.2L 5 sad. 4wd. 41000 miles. I hear a hissing noise at driver side engine, on cold weather days which stops after warm up. other symptoms are idle surge and idle fluctuation (200-1000RPM)which either stalls out or stabilizes. I have appt. with dealer and wonder if Isuzu will pay for intake manifold gasket replacement? (if that is the problem) Please advise.
  • alcjewalcjew Member Posts: 173
    If your Amigo is still under warranty, the dealer will replace it for free. I had my '99 Rodeo gasket replaced (about 2 hrs) for free because it was still under warranty. Good luck!
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I have a cell phone antenna on one side, and a glass mount CB antenna on the other. I was careful to install them so as to not cover the wires in the glass. If they are installed over the wires in the glass you will likely have interference.

  • spirollispirolli Member Posts: 50
    Well, I took my Trooper into the shop last Wednesday night for the front dash buzzing sound, the tapping in the front hood/windshield sound and a routine 15k oil change. The dealer called me Thursday afternoon around 4:30 and told me that "they had no problem hearing the rattle/buzzing sound coming from behind the odometer but they were having a hard time locating its exact position". He asked me if he could keep it over night and work on it again Friday. I said, "ok".

    I called the dealer on Friday (after I heard that a nasty snow storm was headed our way) and told him that I needed the truck back that night. He left me a message back stating that they had taken the entire truck dash apart. Each time they think they found what was causing the buzzing sound, they would try to fix it. However, when they took it out on a road test, sure enough.. it would make the buzzing sound again and again. Since the truck dash was totally apart and they were totally stumped, he asked me if he could keep the truck until Monday. I said, no problem as long as you give me another 4x4 so that I could get to work on Monday & Tuesday. They set me up in a 2000 Trooper S with 13k miles. I guess it's a demo truck or something. The damn thing runs better than my 2000 Limited.! It's tighter, less noisy on the road, spunkier and it handles better.! Not a god damn rattle anywhere. I think it's the tires.? I was pissed...

    At least I have a truck for the largest snow storm that's supposedly going to hit us Sunday, Monday & Tuesday.

    I'll keep you posted on "the saga of the rattle".

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