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Yesterday I ordered an air filter and 2 oil filters for my 1998 Trooper from St. Charles Isuzu (800.727.8066 or www.stcharlesauto.com). The parts guy gave me the oil filters for St. Charles’ sale price of $3.55 each, which is 30% off manufacturer list of $5.07. The air filter was only $15.51 - much cheaper than I expected. Last January I ordered one from St. Charles for $24.40. At 15% off mfr list, this means mfr list was $28.70. The mfr list on the one I bought yesterday was only $18.25. At $15.51, the Isuzu filter from St. Charles is cheaper than the Fram I've seen at Wal-Mart and Murray's ($16.97).
Also, the guy mentioned that St. Charles frequently sells items on Ebay, which I was not aware of. I plan to check out Ebay and see what St. Charles is offering. The guy also mentioned that they sometimes auction off a coupon for 30% off list on any entire order. If anybody is thinking about genuine Isuzu upgrades such as running boards, fog lamps, etc. this would be a great way to save more money than St. Charles normally saves you, and way more than buying from your local dealer.
For those who don’t already know, shipping from St. Charles is free.
I’ve had excellent experiences every time I’ve ordered from them and recommend them highly.
On this lubrication discussion... I've used Mobil 1 in a 96' GMC Van since day one and never had a complaint. Sure like the extended time between oil changes too. What grade oil are you late model Trooper owners using in your vehicles?? The alder one 88' I've always used 10W-30 but I know a lot of ewer vehicles are using "gas saving" 5W-30. Any recommendations here??
I will double-check the owners manual for my 1998 Trooper, but I thought it specified a 30,000 mile change interval for TOD system fluid. I know I wouldn't have changed it unless changing it was specified in the owners manual somewhere.
Any moron can change it-- I did! The first time was an accident while trying to change the engine oil. I was nervous about what to do for a while-- couldn't figure out how to get fluid back up there since the fill plug faces downward. Finally a guy at an auto parts store sold me a $3 hose thingie that attaches to any quart-sized ATF or oil bottle. It takes a while with this method, but fortunately the capacity of the TOD system is only 2 quarts. And you probably won't get the full 2 quarts of old ATF to drain out, so you'll likely need only about 1.5 quarts of new stuff.
The owners manual for my 98 Trooper says the TOD system fluid should be CHECKED every 30,000 miles. It says nothing about actually replacing the fluid. I wonder if the "check" means checking the fluid level or somehow checking the condition of the fluid. The former is easy enough - just unscrew the drain plug and feel in the hole with your finger for the fluid. The latter I have no idea how you would check without actually draining the fluid and looking at it. Once you've done that, you would basically need to replace it because it wouldn't seem smart to put used fluid back in there.
Yes, I just lay down under the truck for changing engine oil or TOD fluid. It's a tight squeeze for the TOD fluid since you need to have the quart bottle of ATF (2.0 quarts TOD capacity) standing up with a hose and nozzle pumper thing (technical term) attached to it, but there's enough room. It's nice to not have to worry about the vehicle being on ramps, plus leaving it on the ground ensures the vehicle is level.
I don't know how many drain plugs are under the truck. I'm not sure exactly where the trans drain plug is. The TOD drain plug is a couple feet from the engine oil drain plug. The TOD reservoir also has a fill plug, which is up higher (further away from the ground). I'm glad it was the TOD fluid and not the auto trans fluid that I drained by mistake-- the TOD takes only 2 quarts but the AT takes something like 9!
I've been debating whether to replace the auto trans fluid. The problem I have is that there's such a wide disparity between Isuzu's owner's manual recommendation for what to do on severe duty schedule (replace fluid every 20k miles) vs. regular duty schedule (replacement never specified; only periodic inspection).
One of these days I need to buy the factory shop manual from Helm. I'm working with a Chilton's Trooper manual, but it covers only through 1996 Troopers. Many of the mechanical components are the same, though.
In the case of the oil change, I had photocopies of the relevant underbody components from someone who has the factory shop manual, and I still couldn't find the right d**m drain plug!
Rattle In Rear Cargo Area:
Don't let the dealer [non-permissible content removed] you. I can almost assure you that it's not your rear windshield wiper blade hitting your rear spare tire cover at speeds of 65+Mph. I had the same problem, only my noise happened at all speeds, intermittently. It took 4 visits to the dealer to correct. After the 4th visit, I was basically nuts. I had my wife drive the truck, while I sat in the rear cargo area in an attempt to determine exactly where this friggen rattle was coming from. It turned out to be coming from the rear cargo doors. Actually the latches in the rear cargo doors. The doors were simply not aligned properly and needed to be adjusted by the dealer, which fixed the problem. In order to confirm it's the rear cargo door latches on your Trooper, try this simple test. Open your rear doors. You'll see two hinges on each door. On the hinges you'll notice a plastic pre-hinge that slides back and forth over the metal hinges. With the doors open, quickly slide the plastic hinge back and forth until it hits on either side. See if this noise is the same noise that you hear when the truck is moving. If it is, you've found your rattle. Show the dealer and tell him your doors are out of line and to fix the problem instead of trying to [non-permissible content removed] you with some wiper blade crap.
Rattle In Dash:
This is one hell of a annoying rattle. Sounds like a buzzing (alarm clock)sound coming from directly behind the odometer. It is definetly temperature sensitive. It only happens during cold weather 40 degrees or below. It is also more sensitive to engine RPM's then speed. If the engine is spinning at a given RMP, I hear the rattle regardless of speed. Although it is pretty constant at 60Mph. I have had it back to the dealer twice already. The first time they told me they couldn't hear the buzzing sound (despite the fact that I dropped the car off the night before so they would get a truely cold start). The 2nd time they re-insulated the rubber stripping around the entire instrumentation panel. It did not fix the problem. I am scheduled to take the truck in this coming wednesday. We'll see. My patience is wearing thin with this one. If they don't hear the buzzing sound this time, they are simply not listening for it. I may take Mike's advise and drive the car along with the technician. This way I can stick his head right up against the dash board to make sure he hears it.
Tapping Sound (Hood Guard):
This is another one that has me nuts and stumped. I noticed it after the Isuzu hood guard was installed. It sounds like a tapping crackly sound at 60Mph+. I hear it more during warmer weather then colder weather, I think. I spent 3 nights last week trying to identify where exactly the noice is coming from, to no avale. I can tell you where it's not coming from. It's not coming from the hood guard. I've placed foam rubber spacers in every possible area between the gaurd and hood where there could even possibly be the chance of the plastic gaurd tapping against the hood. Tapping still there. I then went to the bumper, tightened it up, installed foam rubber in any and every possible area that made a sound. Tapping still there. I installed foam rubber underneath both of those cheesy wheel well platic shields on the under side of each wheel well. Tapping still there. Duct taped any wires hanging down underneath the engine and inside the engine. Tapping still there. Tightened up the hood guides under the front and rear of the hood. Tapping still there.
I plan on explaining this to the dealer when I take the truck in this Wednesday but there are 2 things I am going to try before Wednesday. 1- check the gas lines that run across the firewall. I had the second recall done but it's still worth a look. 2- check the weather stripping around the front windsheild. I noticed (on both of the bottom corners of the weather stripping) that if you slightly push down on the bottom corner of the outside, front windsheild weather stripping, it makes this crackling/tapping sound. My thought is that the hood gaurd causes air to push and pull against this part of the stripping, causing it to make that annoying sound. I will duct tape them down and hit the highway at 70+MPh to do a test. If I still hear it after this I am at witts end.
I'll keep you all posted. And please let me know if there's something I've missed.
I'm going to write up that rear door rattle fix and put it on my faq page on http://isuzu-suvs.com Once you hammer out the others keep us posted so we can post up those fixes as well. You also might try a different dealer.
I'll keep you posted on the rest of the issues.
As far as the dealer goes, Davis Isuzu in Richboro PA, is pretty good as far as dealerships go. Don't forget, this is the dealer that repainted the fender flares on my 2000 Limited after the paint literally peeled off from an off roading trip I went on during the PA hunting season this past fall. I was climbing rock covered slopes with the Trooper like I was on dry pavement. The rocks were kicking up big time and just removed the some of the paint from the fender flares. It was definetly my fault, but the dealer re pained the flares anyway. They also touched up any other nicks they found. I really can't complain about Davis.
I dig what you've done to your web site. It looks great..!
Talk with you soon Mike.
I do know that the last time I changed the TOD fluid it had been in there about 30,000 miles. It was definitely not as fresh-looking and cherry red as when it was originally added. This doesn't necessarily mean the fluid was unable to do its job, though. My Trooper has TOD engaged for only about 10% of the miles it's driven-- on rainy days and snowy days only; otherwise I leave it off for fuel economy reasons.
Thanks for your post on the rattles. The hood protector wrap around wings on my 2000 S were tapping on the fenders at 60+ mph. Mine wasn't hard to trouble-shoot. I could actually see it tapping while I was driving by leaning to the left and looking from the extreme left side of the windshield. It was also leaving a small transfer on one fender.
The acid test to is just to take the hood protector off and see if the tapping stops. Is it too late to return your hood protector and use the money to buy a better designed aftermarket model?
That said, I plan to take the Troop to Jiffy Lube or similar to get a total AT fluid swap, but probably not till 50K or so. I will also change the TOD fluid and spark plugs around 50K. I know the plug change interval is 100K on my 99, but I have heard that a plug can be very hard to remove after sitting in there for 100K. Spark plugs are cheap, until you break one off trying to remove it!
Other than that, I plan to follow the normal maintenance schedule for most of the fluids.
My hood protector tapped at road speed also. The problem was easy to remedy. Just take a little self sticky felt pad ,easily purchased at Home Depot or the like, cut it into 4 pieces and apply to the rubber pieces on the deflector. It takes about 15 seconds and I have never heard another sound from the guard.
Hope it works for you,
It appears that the amount of synthetic oil in the "synthetic blend" oils (Castrol Syntec Blend, Valvoline Durablend, etc.) is frequently as low as 10%. It's definitely not a 50/50 synthetic/dino oil blend. If you do the math, it's easy to see that synthetic blend oil is a ripoff at $2-2.50/quart. You could mix your own 50/50 blend, which most of the folks on those forums seem to think is perfectly safe, for about $2.50 quart ($4/qt for synth and $1/qt for dino) and have a much higher synthetic percentage.
This makes me feel a little stupid, because I've been running synthetic blend in my Trooper for the past 30,000 miles. I'm planning either to switch to full synthetic or switch to a homemade 50/50 blend of dino/synthetic.
Second time took me 15 min once I knew what I was doing. The fluid pump and hose made a huge difference.
Another question for anyone who knows. Are there multiple stock sizes of tires supplied on Troopers? I'm looking for a spare tire cover to fit P245 60/R16's. Anyone know what part # is needed for the right cover for this? I've been given several #'s as what is supposed to fit, but I'm not sure which is the correct one or one's.
Phone # is 805 498-6703
The book # for the 97 Rodeo is 47017
If you're really serious about maintaining your own Trooper, order the factory workshop manual from Helm Publications at www.helminc.com
Also when hot, the engine will start, but once i put it in "d" it will bog and sometimes stall. Then yesterday, When i attempted to restart it after running at hwy speeds for say 30 minutes, it wouldnt start. Then when it did start it stalled.
Does anyone have a clue into what is amking this happen? im thinking its something to do with the fuel/air mix..like injectors, O2 valve, fuel pump...thanks
However, later that weekend I drove it in dry weather and I heard that same click at seemingly random times. It seems to be coming from the steering column, or the dash right behind it.
I had a "cold weather" click down near the Transmission Shifter, which sounded like a little person tapping on the bottom of the truck right under the shifter. It has since stopped since the winter weather left us.
Any ideas on my dash/wiper click?
PS: No TOD sticker on mine either. Other than that, I don't think there is any way for the untrained eye to tell the difference from 2WD and 4WD from the outside. Even that sticker is hard to see...
This is probably a silly question, but I have to ask it. Is there a way to secure the second row seat when folded forward. It came craching down on me once and freaked me out.
If your Amigo is still under warranty, the dealer will replace it for free. I had my '99 Rodeo gasket replaced (about 2 hrs) for free because it was still under warranty. Good luck!
I called the dealer on Friday (after I heard that a nasty snow storm was headed our way) and told him that I needed the truck back that night. He left me a message back stating that they had taken the entire truck dash apart. Each time they think they found what was causing the buzzing sound, they would try to fix it. However, when they took it out on a road test, sure enough.. it would make the buzzing sound again and again. Since the truck dash was totally apart and they were totally stumped, he asked me if he could keep the truck until Monday. I said, no problem as long as you give me another 4x4 so that I could get to work on Monday & Tuesday. They set me up in a 2000 Trooper S with 13k miles. I guess it's a demo truck or something. The damn thing runs better than my 2000 Limited.! It's tighter, less noisy on the road, spunkier and it handles better.! Not a god damn rattle anywhere. I think it's the tires.? I was pissed...
At least I have a truck for the largest snow storm that's supposedly going to hit us Sunday, Monday & Tuesday.
I'll keep you posted on "the saga of the rattle".