By accessing this website, you acknowledge that Edmunds and its third party business partners may use cookies, pixels, and similar technologies to collect information about you and your interactions with the website as described in our
Privacy Statement, and you agree that your use of the website is subject to our
Visitor Agreement.
Comments
I am considering a cover for weather, theft, vadalism purposes. I agree it looks cool without the plastic cover. I think a vinyl/soft cover might look OK too, and keep it "nice".
I had funky balance on my new tires a while ago and they were balanced as best they could on the old kind of machine and way out of round when checked on the new machine. After this balance of roundness and then balance of weight the tires run much nicer and quieter.
The machine has a web page, I don't remember what the URL is.
I will probably go back and insist that they do this for me, not because I necessarily need it, but just because it will make me happy. Long term I think it is better to have a wheel with less weights than not, for example if off-roading and for some reason the balance weights come off, it will only be 2oz out than 4.75, maybe the difference between limping to a service station at 35 MPH or not. Just a theory, but I don't think it can hurt to employ some of the knowledge I have learned reading about tires. If they can't get it under 4 oz. there may be something implicitly wrong with the tire? Every other tire was balanced under 2.5 oz. Since there is no vibration it is something I just want to have done before my 20 day trial is done.
Other than my personal OCD issues, the tires are great. They really grip the road well. I like the ride.
Now I want to replace the front 6.5's. Should I replace them with component speakers (6.5's and tweets), and will aftermarket tweets fit under the front tweet grills? Has anyone done this?
I was looking at Paisan's site, and saw the subs in the hidden compatment. I measured the compartment at 4" depth, 7" width, and 25" across. That seems to me that it could hold three 6.5's (total area = 3*33.18=100 in^2)but it could also hold two 6X9's (total area = 2*42.41=85in^2). Now I think one might have some trouble powering three speakers (being an odd number and all), and I'm not sure if they would have enough free air under them in such a small box. So I'm thinking more along the lines of the two 6X9's. The problem is that I can't seem to find any 6X9's without tweeters. All of the 6X9's are more than one way speakers. Does anyone have any knowledge in this area? Is it okay to use two or three way speakers for bass with an amp?
I'll try and post this to some other forums too.
...Eiji...
This guy lived in my area, and I emailed him about his setup a couple times. I'll check my email and see if I still have anything about it. He thought the setup sounded great. As I recall, he installed an Alpine head unit too so the speakers probably don't get all the credit.
I'm still not sure if it's appropriate to use two 6X9's as a woofer, but the size of two 6X9's is greater than that of a 10". I'm not taking into account throw distances either, and I suspect a 10" will do better in that area.
http://www.rancho.com.au/
Check out the FAQ's for detailed responses on why this outfit thinks Rancho's are the best shock made.
Also picked up a K40 cb antenna from a friend that mounts on the rear spoiler. So far excellent results.
-mike
I also got a hydraulic jack today. I wanted to rotate my tires to check for tire pull. I am getting an alignment done, but just wanted to be sure there were no problems with the new tires. There was a 2 hour wait at the firestone place. So I went to sears and picked up a jack and stands.
It is really good, and will come in handy over the years to come. I learned something though...Don't jack a car up on warm blacktop. After I took the tires off, I couldn't figure out why they wouldn't go back on...only to see the jack stand about 3/4 of inch into the driveway. I got a good scare and then laugh out of the whole thing.
Finally got my steering problem fixed. 6 trips in 6 months. UGH. I asked them to do an alignment, because I had new tires, a slight pull left, etc. Guess what, they didn't do it, the mechanic stated, "tires show no indication of alignment problem". Since alignment isn't a warranty thing, I will be going elsewhere.
You specifically ask for an alignment because you are experiencing a problem, and they see "geez...I can't see anything wrong with those new tires".
When I got my car, I had a rally nudge bar installed by the dealer. The installation instructions say, move the tow hook from the right of the car to the left. They tossed the tow hook out.
Told them to fix it under warranty because they screwed up. The service coordinator agreed, the mechanic says "can't do it - you have a nudge bar", even after reading the bar's installation instructions.
I purchased a tow hook myself - from their own spares department. Fitted it, took it back and showed them. Got a refund on the tow hook and a free set of floor mats.
zaidordep
Now all I have to do is mount the radio and hook everything up. I cannot decide where to put the radio, but it is looking like the Ashtray slot is the best. I guess I am going to have to take the dash apart to find out for sure.
The antenna will also mount securely to my bull bar for offroad trails, that is main reason why I got magnetic rather than permanent, so I can move it around when needed.
You can stick it on your bull bar which is nice, like I used to do with mine when I stuck it on the rear bumper protector I have!
-mike
-mike
The original box was damaged, so I had to go back to radio shack to get is swapped. The ashtray was hard to get out. Fits perfectly and the speaker is unobstructed. The only issue now is heat? How much will the unit generate? How hot will the back dash behind the ashtray get? Any safety concerns?
-mike
Next I have to tune the antenna. I don't have an SWR meter, I want to borrow one before buying it.
I haven't quite completed the mount in the dash either. I am not sure how I am going to secure it in there and still keep the ability to remove it easily? I am going to try industrial strength velcro first.
I can't get my glass mounted compass to calibrate properly. I am afraid the big magnet antenna may be altering the magnetic field of the car too much for it to work properly?
My LS is a 2WD, and I want to dress it up a bit more. Are there chrome interior door handles available?
Japan's Big Horn site shows narrow chrome edge trim for the taillight lenses (NOT the brush guard type). I'm pretty sure they're the stick-on variety, but they look very nice. Anyone know how I might get those?
Thanks,
Dave
Good luck getting Big Horn Accesories over here.
-mike
I knew about the write-up, but did not know if the application was the same for my '01 LS 2WD. It turns out that it is.
However, I ordered from Suspension Restoration Parts instead. They had the graphite impregnated bushings from Energy Suspension. JCW only had the non-graphite/non-greaseable bushings. Cost was a little more, but the absence of squeaks make it worthwhile.
I'll post my impressions of handling differences after the install.
Thanks,
Dave
Dave
I have got to agree with you on the blandness. I hate parking next to a current Mitsubishi Pajero (Montero in the US) as it just makes my car look so boring. My model doesn't even have the flares so it's a bit slab-sided. I would never swap them, though!( Unless a considerable cash incentive is involved for me. ;-) )
PS...The tailights with the chrome might be complete assemblies. The lights themselves look a bit recessed compared to the Trooper's/Jackaroo's flush units. I might be wrong. Some Altezza tailights, if they exist, would be cool!
All that you really have to do is get the electromagnetic clutch to remain engaged. So we need to get a signal to the clutch pack to remain engaged.
1) Modify a trigger to trick rear ABS sensors to send a spin condition
2) Splice ones own signal directly into the transcase/electromagnetic clutch
3) Trick TOD unit into believing that your speed is 2 mph and the throttle is floored.
These are some possible solutions, which may or may not work. I don't have a TOD unit, so I can't even play around with one. Maybe if someone had a shop manual of the schematics, one could find a way to splice a signal in. If I come up with anything that actually works on my dad's system, I'll let you know.
-mike
On smooth highways I haven't noticed a huge difference so far between the Rancho's and the stock shocks. Maybe a little less lean and dive. There is a big difference however on rough roads. The Rancho's deliver a much more contolled ride with less bounce. On washboard roads there's less bounce / vibration and the tires seem to keep better contact with the road. All in all a nice upgrade. I'm wondering if a polyurethane bushing kit would add much to the ride quality.
You may be right about the tail lights. But I'll pursue the gray market idea out of curiosity.
Dave
-mike
In the diags there is a lead for 4-Hi so I think it may be as simple as putting 12v onto that.
-mike
If it's as simple as a 4Hi input, then it should be easy enough to get a "4WD" button from a "shift-on-the-fly" model Trooper/Rodeo/'Roo/Frontera, fit it into the space next to the "4WD Auto" button, wire it up and voila, 4H! And it would look like it was always there!
I always wondered why Isuzu didn't do this in TOD. The Ford Explorer uses the same Borg Warner TOD transfer case for its control-trac and has a 4H setting. Though Isuzu has used its own proprietary programming for the TOD.
http://totalescape.com/Amigo/text/trooperFAQ.html
Hey Paisan-I've seen a Trooper on the streets of Atlanta with cut springs and super low profile tires. I'll try to get a picture for your website if your interested.
-mike
http://www.sylvania.com/auto/silverstar.htm
Rated wattage and color temp is higher than most PIAA's. But @ $25 a pop, I'm skeptical of their benefit. Paisan doesn't seem very impressed with the PIAA's. Anybody else have an opinion?
-mike
Hope you like.
-mike
My butt guage tells me there's about a 30% reduction in nosedive/squat and 'bout 20% in side-to-side roll. Considering the bang for the buck ($34 total), I'm ready to do end link bushings already.
The downside is, there's a downside! The fronts go on relatively easy, but the fit is less than perfect. During installation, you'd swear they would never compress enough to close completely. They will, but barely.
Energy Suspension offers (through Supension Restoration -http://www.suspension.com/s.b.bushings.htm ) a long and a short-bracket version of the bushings. But due to the Trooper's frame design, only the short brackets will fit.
Front = Part # 9-5129
Rear = Part # 9-5123
The original bushings are 26mm, so I presume the bar is also (although it measures exactly one inch using the crescent wrench/ruler method). In the short bracket version, the closest fit offered by Energy Suspension is either 25mm (0.4mm less than 1 inch) or 27mm (1.6mm more than 1 inch). The 25mm barely closes around the 1-inch sway bar after tightening the bracket. Only time will tell if they compress sufficently to keep road grime out.
The rears ... well, they are a royal pain! Forget everything you ever heard about how quickly they install. I did it with the car on the ground, but ideally it should be on ramps, or else on jack stands with the wheels removed. Otherwise, you'll go through a twelve-pack trying to get the new ones on. Still, they pay off in improved handling.
I'll provide more details to anyone who's interested. Just email me.
Dave
I'd be interested in endlinks if anyone finds them.
-mike