-June 2024 Special Lease Deals-
2024 Chevy Blazer EV lease from Bayway Auto Group Click here
2024 Jeep Grand Cherokee lease from Mark Dodge Click here
2025 Ram 1500 Factory Order Discounts from Mark Dodge Click here
2024 Chevy Blazer EV lease from Bayway Auto Group Click here
2024 Jeep Grand Cherokee lease from Mark Dodge Click here
2025 Ram 1500 Factory Order Discounts from Mark Dodge Click here
Options
Comments
I received this quote as a 1st quote and have not attempted to negotiate, yet:
MSRP $30,615.00
Discount $4,357.78
Selling Price $26,257.22
FLA. Tire disposal fee: $5.00
FLA. Lead-acid battery disposal fee: $1.50
Pre-delivery service fee: $599.00
Amount taxable on vehicle $26,862.72
Sales tax = 6% with $25 fee $1,611.76
County tax reflected here $50.00
Trade in Payoff amount due:
ESTIMATED New Tag Fee $400.00
Cash on delivery: $28,924.48
However, if I trade a car in, then the tag transfer fee drops to $150 and then the OTD price is $28674.48.
If I read your post, you paid $28,780 OTD and your tax rate in PA is just 6%.
So if we are to determine who got or is getting a better deal, it is still too subjective to decide.
When you factor in time involved in research and negotiation, time involved at the dealership, cost to take time to get to the dealership, gas, whatever, etc, it still seems to be about a wash.
So whether the dealer discloses a "profit" either included in the starting price or added, what matters is the cost of the vehicle OTD minus TTL and that is what we should all be trying to compare here.
Regardless of whom you purchase from,be sure and get quotes for Honda Car Warranty from Hyannis Honda or Saccucci Honda prior to going to the Dealer. The dealers will try and sell you the Honda Care Warranties at full markup to make up for the low prices on their cars. The online sellers will sell the same warranties for for nearly 30 to 40% less.
Good luck and remember you can do all this online BEFORE you go into the dealer.
I bought my EXL-RES for 30,100 FOR THE CAR. Who cares what my tax rates are -- even I don't because I CANT CHANGE OR NEGOTIATE THEM. All I can do is try to get the car price as low as possible, which in turn makes the tax bill go down a little too.
Focus and compare on what we can control........which is the car price
you are grossly misrepresenting what I have said.
If dealer A sends an email back saying the car is 25,500 plus a 500 dealer fee and the car is 26,000 plus TTL, dealer B says the car is 25,700 plus a 300 dealer fee for a base of 26,000 plus TTL , and dealer C says the car is 26,000 with no dealer fee plus TTL, the price is the same between all of them before TTL regardless of whether they itemize out "dealer profit add ons" or not.
When I posted the first email I got back from one of them showing that they were offering the car for 1250 below invoice, but they itemized out what was base and what was a fee, I stated that the price before TTL seemed fair.
If you actually read what I am saying, you will realize that we agree on comparing what we can control, which is the car price before TTL, and not flame me.
Thank you.
Rochester. We bought at the end of Feb. but seems as though waiting a few weeks we could have gotton a better deal. It's all about timing I guess...end of the week at the end of the month...should have waited until the end of the year as well...but we are happy with our van!
MSRP $ 30,615.00
Selling Price $ 26,438.24
Sales tax $ 1650.76
Title/Tag/Reg $ 411.00
OTD: $ 28,500
They are including the following in the OTD price:
floor mats, wheel locks, mud guards, cargo tray, cargo mat, nitrogen, pin stripe, door edge guards, and first oil change
And they are letting us put $5000 on our Amex card
My fault for not writing clearly.....wasn't trying to flame you at all. I still disagree with the whole "dealers are entitled to earn a profit that we decide for them" thing, but that was an older post......I absolutely agree on the point about OTD prices......
I am currently in the step of canvassing all the dealerships asking for quotes etc. My question is, at what point do I mention that I have cash on hand, and/or the trade-in?
Does cash on hand make me more appealing to the dealer than someone who is financing most of the price of the car?
Should I just work to get the price as low as possible and THEN bring up, "i have a trade in too"?
I've only bought one other car (the Civic) and I didn't do near as much homework because I didn't feel it was as much of an investment. This is my chance to get a great family car, my kids are small, and I picture this being our family car for hte next 8-10yrs. Any thoughts?
Then I would recommend reading hogan's steps for negotiating a great price for a cash deal and find financing elsewhere, like captial one or your local credit union. Dealers would rather do a cash deal and you will do better that way too.
At the last minute, after you have gotten the price you want, then say, by the way, if I trade in my car, what will you give me. If they meet or beat carmax, then blam, take it. If not, then you can either sell it to carmax or try the auto trader.
If you try to work your trade as part of the deal, you will never know how well you are doing and it will be too convoluted.
ymmv.
I'll tell you what happened in my case. I negotiated the price down to 30,100. Then I went in to buy at that price, and 2 things happened. 1) the dealer I went to said he made a mistake on the phone and they didn't actually have an EXL-RES in my color - just an EXL. So not wanting to reward bad behavior, I decided to check my next highest dealer. But while I was at Lying Dealer, I had them appraise my car just to get an idea.
I called my next place and told them that since they and another dealer were basically at the same price on the car, I've realized that a much bigger swing could come by how much each would pay on the trade. So I went there, had them appraise the car. They ultimately agreed to pay 500 more on the trade than the Lying Dealer, so I bought from them on the spot.
PLEASE feel free to push back on the trade in quote. Real world example.....my trade in had KBB and Edmunds trade in value around 11k to 11.5k. Dealer one offered my 9000 flat. Gave me the speech about how nobody uses KBB or Edmunds - they use auction values (which is probably somewhat true). When I pushed back, he upped his offer to 10,500!
Dealer 2 offered 9500 on the trade. I pushed back and they ultimately came up to 11,000.
Addendum to the Hogan Method - IF YOU HAVE A TRADE IN, DON'T OVERLOOK THAT FINAL PUSH WHEN CLOSING THE DEAL. Had I taken their initial bids as gospel, I would have lost 1500-2000 on the overall deal! Big money!
As for Carmax, I wasn't that impressed. I spent an hour and a half of my time, so they could offer me a flat 10,000, non negotiable. Was it better than the INITIAL offer of the dealers? Yes. Did the dealers ultimately beat it? Yes. Don't forget also the very significant tax effect depending on what state you live in. If your state allows them to offset the trade, then you're paying tax on the NET amount of the deal, ie if you get 10,000 for your trade and your state tax is 7%, then you are getting a $700 additional benefit that you don't get by selling thru Carmax.
And one other thing to ponder. I asked several dealers who were at low prices whether bringing a trade into the deal would allow them to go even tighter on the new car price, since they would be making money on the trade. All said no (prob cause I was at or near the bottom of reasonable new car price).
I recommended carmax just to use to get a starting number. It is also a good place to test drive cars without the hassle of new car dealership sales tactics. Most carmaxs have the color and trim of a year or two year old car that you may be looking at to buy new.
I am sure since they sell cars higher than average, they also buy cars below average. So you can probably get the new dealer to beat carmax.
In my recent deal this week, I found that buying a new car was the same price as buying a used one from carmax that was an 08-09 model. That is ridiculous. It was always said to buy a car that is a year or two old, but when you can get new for the same price in this economy, it is a no-brainer.
And as far as Hogan recommends for pushing the dealers and squeezing them to get what you want, most all of them starting by saying they would only take 2500-3000 on an amex card as company policy. Within 24hours of emails, I had 4 of them agreeing to take 5000 on an amex when I told them it would be a deal-breaker.
It is amazing what you can do when you realize that you have the power. The internet is a wonderful thing.
edited to specify it was the 2010 Ody, and to add that the color I wanted was shipped to my dealer from another dealer
Thanks
Thanks!
You have 4 guys all at the same price, all saying they can't go lower.
Pick one of the less-favorite dealers. You can say to them "thanks for working with me. I just wanted you to know that I'm planning on going to another dealer that is indicating a better offer. Since you've already told me that $XYZ is the lowest you can go, I'm sure you can't beat this other dealer, and while I'm pleasantly surprised with the great price the other dealer is indicating, of course I have yet to sign on the dotted line with them. However, they've been very clear about any hidden charges, etc. I'm gonna head over there tomorrow morning and I expect I'll buy the car, but if anything strange pops up or they try to bait and switch me, then I might be calling you back. Otherwise, I appreciate your time and I'll keep you in mind in 5 years when its time to buy my next car"
This is like catnip to a salesman. He knows he is about to lose a sale, and he therefore has a choice to hail mary with a lower price to see if he can convert you.....not much to lose cause you're already basically saying you're going somewhere else. BUT THE KEY IS you haven't yet done the deed, so he has this short window to try to catch you. You're not asking him to re-bid (explicitly) because hey, you are a trusting fellow and believe that what he gave you was already his lowest price! You're just a courteous guy notifying him rather than just buying the car without even telling him what you're doing. The OTHER KEY is that if you follow the script above, you've still left it open with this dealer......if he says "nope, I really am at the lowest price....good luck......" you could always come back in a day or so and say that the other dealer started screwing around on you, and you haven't burned any bridges.
I think I'm gonna write all this down and sell it on a late night infomercial.
Am I wrong? I am going to pick up one this weekend or next. I got an offer at $30,300 which seems good to me. Any comments would be appreciated.
I now need a minivan for the family.
I know that the 2011 is coming out, but I dont need it to be THAT new, but I do want to buy new.
Does anyone know when Honda will start kicking back the dealers enough for me to get into a MSRP $30k vehicle for about $25?
That said, they still didn't lose money on me because while I was satisfied with my trade-in price, it looks like they probably flipped it for a couple thousand bucks.......OK with me as I wanted to get the tax break and didn't want to risk not being able to get a good price on Craigslist (plus having to invest time having people come to my house to drive it, etc). So everyone is happy.......
There might be possible that Honda gives $2500 after April 5, but with low volume in stock, there is a risk you won't get one with the color wife likes.
At least we tried hard to get the best price we can get at the time we really need one.
Wish me luck, I am going to ask them if I can get some free accessories.... at the price $30,300 before TTL.
I had a quote for $30,190+++ (less than $31,600 OTD) from a regional dealer with no dealer add-ons, but we would have had to drive a bit to get there. After a ton of back and forth from the dealer around the corner, we settled on exactly $32,000 OTD (roughly $30,590+++). This included the already-installed wheel locks and mud guards, which I did not care about. They still claimed that they lost money, but I doubt they did after I bought the 10 year/120,000 mile warranty and the Simoniz treatment/warranty for the interior and exterior. Total cost all in was still under $34,000.
Oh, and I went in pre-approved for financing at 3.99% for 48 months from an external bank, but I accepted their offer of 3.44% for 60 months.
Lessons Learned:
--I would highly recommend that you use the zag.com/USAA/Overstock/eBay quote, at least as a starting point.
--The internet department was the one that made the deal happen. Always start there.
Good luck to those of you still looking to buy!
P.S. "Regional" dealer I referred to was Bryan Honda in Fayetteville. Local dealer I bought from is Auto Park Honda in Cary.
I cannot wait until I need to buy another car, this has been fun. I am almost wanting to be a consultant for friends to help them get cars too.
Great deal at 3.44% for 60 months. I haven't pulled the trigger yet, try to understand your e-mail clearly. You used your "regional" quote to settle the price of $30, 590+++ at your local dealer, $400 more than regional, right? how much did you pay for TTL?
I had my pre-approval at 3.99 for 48 months from BOA, not sure if my dealer could get me 3.44% for 60 months.
Thanks.
What do you experts say? Is $31,417 a total rip-off? He doesn't *have* the color I want, but said he would get it. zag says $31,517...
Test drove and loved. Want to live in this car!
If you like the van and color I see no reason not to pull the trigger. Then never look at this thread again to avoid folks raining on you deal. Not all speak the truth.
$28,780 seems to be great out of the door price for EX model.
What state are you in? how much % tax you pay ?
Does it include the 4750 destination charges ?
thanks
then as hogan recommended, go for round 3 with the "bluff" (post# 24875) and see who is going to lower the price again. If one of them can get the car in the color you want, they all can. remember that.
Horrors! That can't possibly be!!
The other 2 said, "I have to check with my manager on Monday to see if we can beat that price" in an e-mail. I told Family Friend I'd call him Monday to let him know. He doesn't have but can easily get my preferred color.
The breakdown w/Family Friend was...(this is a written offer)
"your price": $31,417
docs 100 (he said "we charge less than many others")
Tax 2214
Lic&Title $15 (he said this is the lowest I'll find, many charge $75+)
He's giving me a (generous) $3,500 on my trade-in (which I'd said going in, i'd be happy to get $3,500. I know i could get more in a private sale but it has enough cosmetic dings and dungs that I am in the fair-below average condition category).
So I'd be getting the tax break you all mentioned, as the tax base is lower. It's about a $300 benefit in tax for me.
My true lowest quote is $30,567 but they didn't mention destination fee etc- if it's really that plus $750 destination charge, then i'm obviously going w/Family Friend. Because i like him and i think he's shooting straight with me. Is this prudent?
Once you get all them in writing, then use the lowest one to get the others to lower theres. Just say to dealer A. "Look man, Dealer B is offering X, here is his breakdown. What are you willing to do to get my business?"
Right now you have more power than you think. Don't let the emotion of the situation run you off your target. They will use psychology to get you to sign quick and for more and you have to use psychology to get the best deal.
This is why you should get the breakdown from them, because you do not know. You wont know until you ask.
I used the USAA purchase program. It beat Costco's price. Here is what I got, they had the exact color and model on the lot that we wanted. Note - we are in the ATL area.
SALE PRICE $32,896.00
DOC FEE 599.00
THEFT PROTECTION 199.00
SALES TAX (6%) 2,020.00
TITLE/LEMON LAW 21.00
DRIVE OUT PRICE $35,715.00
Now, I reduced that price by playing hardball with my trade-in. They tried to lowball me around $1500 on the trade-in but after some kick butt negotiation on my part I ended up actually getting more than I expected for the trade-in. All in all, a very good deal.
Love the van, it's awesome.
Paid $29,500 + Taxes. Was something like 29,250 plus 250 admin fee, totaled 29500.
I test drove a 2011 Sienna (the "swagger wagon"
But all in all, I preferred the Honda, and looked like I could do about $1500 better with the Honda.
The Sienna's wood trim on the dashboard was seriously ugly.
Put 10k down, finance the rest at 4.9% for about $500/mo for 48mos.
Did get the 8 year/100k extended warranty for an additional $1400. Was reluctant, but got them down from 2k on that at least and can cancel for a prorated refund at anytime - full refund within 60 days.
May not be the _best_ deal out there, but I think I'm pretty darned close.
They claimed their profit was only about $200 or so.
They were very good to work with, very polite, honest and straightforward.
Would definitely buy there again.
Wife is thrilled..
I really like it.
Search back for the pros/cons of Honda DVD, but I decided to go for it because its well integrated into the car, nobody is going to be cutting my headliner when my car is brand new, and most importantly, it has a WARRANTY.
With all due respect to Zag, pfluck Zag.....cause Zag is telling you a higher than real price.
With all due respect to another poster, I think people on here are telling the truth. I am 100% telling the truth that I paid 30,100 for my EXL-RES, plus TTL and no BS dealer fees. I also believe others who said they are acheiving similar prices.
It would appear that perhaps the "distant family friend" is clouding your judgment and potentially impeding your ability to get the best price. It would also seem that going to this "distant family friend" is not getting you some secret backdoor awesome discount! So if there are other family-related benefits to buying from DFF, then by all means do so, but from a cold economics standpoint it appears DFF is costing you more......
By the way -- go back to my post on the Hogan Stretch. These bastige dealers who demand to see "proof" of the competing quote.......screw that. I can see how this happens depending on how you tee it up......its a subtle difference......follow me here.....
#1) hey Mr. Dealer I have another quote for $30,100....would you be willing to match or beat it? [puhleeze pretty puhleeze]
OR
#2) Hogan method - hey Mr. Dealer thanks for spending time with me. Just want to let you know I'm going to go tomorrow to another dealer that has quoted a better price - about $350 less than what you told me was your lowest price. I guess if something falls through, I might contact you again, otherwise thanks and I'll perhaps call you next time I'm in the market for a car.
Now fellas, follow me here. See who has the power in each scenario? #1 the DEALER has the power - you are GIVING it to them. You are on bended knee asking for them to do something. That is why they can demand to see "proof" and other BS. But in #2 YOU have the power - YOU are the man of action, you are breaking up with them and going to date someone else - you are going to BUY the car at a cheaper price, and not with them. And you're not ASKING them anything!!! In reality you are dangling that little lure out there if they decide to take one last chomp before they lose you, because as far as they know, tomorrow you are DONE, tomorrow you are buying a car and it will be at a competitor.
See the difference? BTW in my case, I did this stuff via phone. I think you might consider moving to phone conversations after the initial wave of quotes, esp if you do internet quotes. I am perhaps old fashioned, but I think getting subtle messages across like the Hogan Stretch are better done via voice. Harder to do via an email, cause its too likely they will just read your email and think your bluffing. When they hear it in your voice maybe they'll react better. Just a suggestion....I never tried doing a Hogan Stretch via email so maybe it would work too..... :confuse:
Sales tax here is 6%
Not sure about the destination charge. I'll give a full cost run down after I pick up the van, which BTW is supposed to be this Tuesday or Wednesday.
I was able to go quite far on the internet using the hogan method before going into a dealer all proper-like. In my first email to the dealers, I was VERY specific about what I wanted on the van (trim level/color/options). Still, on my face-to-face visit to the "winning" dealership (last Thursday), it was suggested that several color variations were available on the lot (however, not the color that I wanted). I stood firm, reminding them that they had responded to me with regards to my inquiry, not the other way around. That night, I sent out "round 3" emails to the other 6 dealers that I was working with. I got some replies that were very positive. I went back into the dealer on Saturday and hinted that I had other options in the mix, including price points. My sales rep went directly into the manager's office, and I observed the head honcho on the phone as he made what appeared to be several calls. After 10 minutes ,my salesman came out to inform me that my vehicle would be on the lot Monday or Tuesday of this coming week.
Will let everyone know how the final round with the F&I folks goes. Until then...
Now, I know how my customers learn some of their little tricks.
Everybody wants to get into the act!
MSRP 30,615
Paid 26,366
Dealer add ons 281 Mud flps and cargo tray
admin fee 149
title+lincense fee 10
Total drive out price 26,806
Did not use honda financing\
Free Paint coat and fabric coat
Road hazard protection (cover tires)
Towing for life
Car washes for life
full tank of gas
First oil change free
Free loaner car
See Todd Albrecht at Frank Leta Honda O'fallon, MO and tell them the Cokers sent you
I will get a referral fee.
Sales tax is paid at liscense burea and will be aroun 1,900
28,780 did include the destination charges.