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Comments
They wanted to sell me extra 'care' packages that would protect my leather and paint for 5 years, but honestly if the paint or leather cracks i'm simply taking the vehicle back. My dealer hasn't jumped on the Nitrogen Tires trend yet, but the other dealers wanted to give me that for free, along with 'tire care' deals. They all constantly wanted me to either come in or tell them we had a deal over the phone "If i get you car mats can I say we have a deal?". I just kept saying no and that I was waiting for other dealers calls even if i loved their price because it seems like they're all willing to out-do each other for your business. You just have to be willing to walk away, and DON'T go into dealerships.. which is really the benefit of calling other dealers in your state before your local one first. Everybody can give you a quote over the phone within 10 minutes. If they say otherwise they're lying to you."
Excellent summary, jealous, and thanks for the kind words re: the Hogan System.
My favorite part of your report was the above 2 paragraphs - and indeed this is why I come back to this board from time to time to share my thoughts, because I experienced great personal pleasure when I came to understand these issues myself, and I get almost as much pleasure seeing others "get it". I'm not a Matrix fanboy or anything, but its kinda like that movie, when in the end Neo "sees the Matrix" and realizes he has powers above and beyond all the evil agents pursuing him in that fictional world. Others have posted crazy stories like "well, I ended up getting my second color choice because the dealer pushed me into it..." REALLY? WTF? Last I checked, Honda's factories are still making fresh new Odysseys every day, so its not as if they're a scarce resource....and any dealer can trade but if they're too lazy to do so and they can talk you into buying the one that's on their lot, all the better.......
This actually happened to me in my process.....I went to the cheapest dealer who told me he had the car in my color, but when I got there, SURPRISE "we made a mistake and actually don't have one. What is your second color choice?" I started laughing.......so Mr. Salesman, let me understand your arrogance. I buy a car once every 5 years. I am about to spend $30 Thousand of my hard earned dollars. I've deliberated on color choice, asked my wife, agreed on a color, but now just because you LIED to me on the phone, I am going to throw that all away and take a second choice, as if I'm deciding on which loaf of bread to buy at the supermarket? Are you INSANE? So I gave him a slightly nicer sounding version of the above, and then said sorry my friend, I'm going to another dealer to buy the car. And that's what I did, and he just lost a sale. Serves him right.
People - please never forget that you are the customer, you are the one with the money, you are IT. People get all bitchy at restaurants if they don't like their $20 entree, yet for some reason when they're about to spend $30,000 they feel as if they need to somehow kow-tow to the car dealer, like "man I hope they'll let me buy this car....." Its nuts. :confuse:
Good luck all
When we came home after visiting the dealer for the first time (before finding this forum) my wife was pissed at me because we didn't tell our salesperson to ship the colour we wanted in for us overnight. Our salesperson made it seem like there are so few EX-L Ocean Mist Odysseys out there right now and that for us to find one would be a lot of effort on their part. "Supply has all dried up because we're getting ready for the 2011 models." and "the more 2010s we can get off our lot, then the more 2011s we can get in, so I really want to make a deal with you". I was also warned that a neighboring (competing) dealership had one in the colour we wanted, but our salesperson knew that it had some bumper damage in transit, and that it was now fixed, but we shouldn't have to settle for a repaired vehicle. It was all a big lie to put doubt in our minds about other dealers and to make us move as quickly as possible to close the deal. The other thing I noticed was that they had the White ones on the lot front and center, but the Blues and Tans were on a backlot that you couldn't access. Seriously.
I called Hendrick Honda in Charlotte first as it was the furthest from me. The guy said they didn't have one in stock, but there were 3 around the city and he was willing to drive one up to us the next morning, and then drive our trade-in back (140 miles round trip). Thats the point where it clicked for me that we actually had a lot more power than we thought we did. That guy was going to charge us $32,200 (Sale Price) for an EX-L without RES/NAVI. So they would have made around $4000 on that deal if we went with it, which is well worth the drive. (We ended up with an EX-L in the colour we wanted with RES for $30,400 Sale Price - before our trade-in)
I'm convinced that if you're at the dealer, and you're negotiating the price and your salesperson has to go in to talk to their manager about getting you a better price, that it's really just [non-permissible content removed]. They're in there talking about weather or sports or something. So again, i'd advise people not to go into dealerships because they're too much of a timesink. You'll spend 15 minutes driving there, 15 minutes making small talk and then 15 minutes trying to work out a deal. When you try to leave they'll take another $100 off the price or something.. which they need approval for again - 10 minutes. Its just annoying. Call around. Get OTD (Out The Door) pricing and then call around with that. If they say they need to 'see the offer you got from another dealer in writing' before they believe you, they're lying. They lie a lot. Get used to that.
To get all the extra crap we got in the deal I lied. It never seemed to get put on the table until I put it there and attributed it to another dealer, so then everybody was happy to give me extras. I'm sure they pay $20 for a Moonroof Visor and retail it for $200 installed, so they don't care if they've gotta put $100 in extra parts on the table for your deal.
I'm sooooo glad I found this forum. Like $5,000 glad.
Just wondering what others think about these. I see the value in an extended warranty plan but not sure I see value in paint, wheel or interior. Anyone have an opinion here.
It appears that you have 6 months to opt for extended warranty on a new buy so we are considering this. I hopped over to the warranty thread but not much talk about the protection packages.
EX for $26,858 and LX for $23,957.00 plus tax, license, $150.00 document.
The other dealers in Seattle area just replied "come in or call them".
$ 31,200 Base Price of Vehicle (includes a 1250 incentive)
$ 710 destination charge
$ 100 Processing Fee
$ 960 3% Virginia State Sales Tax
$ 91 Tags, Title and VA Registration (approximate)
$ 33,061.00 Out-The-Door Price
Also got 2.59% non-Honda financing at the dealership. Declined all extra coverages.
But in the market for EW by Honda care, have not found any good deals yet.
What do you think of the deal? Dealer mentioned a net $1000 loss. (but do not understand why would they do unless some other means of incentive is available to them)
- I laughed at the interior protection when the guy said "It will cost $500, but could increase your trade-in by $1500". Dude, I had to rip your sales jerk a new one cause they were so painful about my trade-in, why would I hope to ever "make" money on a trade-in in the future?
- Dude, I have alloy wheels on my 6yo Subaru and have never had tire damage.
- Dude, if I want gap insurance I will get it from my own insurance company.
Am I correct in thinking one can buy the extended warranty at any point up to 36k miles? Sounds like it's $2k retail but is often had for $1400, though that may be at purchase only.
No. Bernardi (They're mentioned quite a lot over on the Warranty part of this forum) sells the full Honda Care EW (8 year/120k miles/$0 deductible) for $1295. $1290 is supposedly what the dealer pays for that warranty and then they generally try to tack on a bunch of extra charges, and I guess Bernardi just does massive volume, or they really don't care. Don't take the time to get a great price on a vehicle, and then pay hundreds extra to the same dealer for a warranty you can get at cost from any Honda dealer in the USA. You've got 6,000 miles to decide on getting the extended warranty (I'm not sure how many days/months you have). If your dealership wants to sell it to you for $1400.. do you really want to give them an extra $105 for no reason? And there's like 10 different EW packages to choose from, 8y/120k/$0 is the longest and most expensive one, but again, you can get it through Bernardi for $1295.
And i'm not saying to use Bernardi.. call all the dealers you can to find the best rate. From what i've found though (at least in NC) nobody wants to sell it for less than $1450. You can buy an Extended Warranty from any dealer. Bernardi 'Service Contracts is owned by Bernardi Honda and they're located in Massachusetts.
Personally I steered clear of 3rd party EWs, but thats just me. I'm sure there are great ones out there, but i'd rather just know that I can take my Ody to any Honda dealer anywhere. Some 3rd party EWs only work in certain states, and some only at certain 'partner' dealers.
Pin Strips
Mud Flaps
Truck Tray
Wheel Locks
Details:
Gross Cap Cost: 31,823.35
Adjusted Cap Cost: 28,969.17
Residual: 18,763.25
Total payments: 13,075.56
Agreed upon value: 29,799
Traded in a 2005 EX-L (2,717 Equity--$12,000 for Trade In)
$500 Cash down
Monthly payment: 363.21 (35 months left)...this includes $1,000 financed into payment (which was for the TTL--$326 w/o it).
They had the $1,250 marketing help w/ the lease.
Annapolis Honda, MD
Overall good experience, went in to get my hatch fixed and end up with a new car, good deals right now. This is my 1st lease so I'm not sure how it all works, but think I got a good deal (perhaps had $1,000 wiggle room, but I was unprepared.) They wouldn't go any lower, I even walked out, but decided to get it. My trade needs some work so I think I got a fair price for trade in--they also said they lost about $200-300 on the deal. (I'm sure they'll make it up plus some on the trade in).
Base Price: 28,710 (Incl Dest.)
Splash guards: 85
needed new tags and license plates
OTD: 31,350.02 (incl everything: tax, title, plates, doc fee etc etc)
In summary it was invoice - 2,200. Got the color we wanted. As we went down in price, the resistance level was very strong after invoice - 1800.
Must have called atleast 5 dealers in Chicagoland. Very happy with the purchase.
I too closed on a 2010 Honda Odyssey EXL w/o Navi or DVD
Base Price: 29,250 (Incl Dest. and Wheel Locks).
Similar to you around the Invoice -1800 was a strong resistance point. I thought about continuing bargaining but closed on the deal for the following reasons
(1) The dealership was close to my house.
(2) I know others who had good experiences with this dealership
(3) I bought in NJ and didn't find much better prices in the region. The best price I saw from an online post was 29,055 in Toms River NJ which is a long drive for me.
(4) The other aggressive dealerships I was in contact with were all promising me better deals, we beat any prices etc. etc.. When I did a search on these dealerships I found many people complaining about these dealership. (For Ex. Non Honoring their Internet Quotes, Writing Additional Fees in the Pricing Contract) I didn't want to drive far to these dealerships to be given the run around and I thought the deal I had gotten was fair.
Thanks to all who have given so many suggestions and advice on this forum.
For those interested here is what I did to get my price.
(1) Retrieved Quotes from Zag.com. The Best ZAG deal (29,755) was about 70 miles from my house.
(2) Submit Internet Quote request from Automotive.com and many dealers contacted me. Interestingly the Dealer with the best ZAG price beat their on price via automotive.com quote (29,420). At this point I was in contact with various dealers all saying come in and we will beat the printed offer you have.
(3) Submitted an Internet Quote request from Cars.com to the 3 nearest dealerships from my house. I also commented I wanted Wheel Locks. 2 of the dealerships responded. I guess I was already out of the 3rd dealerships price threshold and they didn't want to bother. Of the two dealerships one provided me a breakdown of the total over costs and basically was trying to explain that they can give me the same 29,420 quote which leaves them little profit. The dealership I went with requested me to send my Internet Price Quote to which they offered me 29250 with wheel locks provided.
(Note: I did call back an agreesive dealership who promised to beat any price by $500+. However with the bad reviews I read I didn't want to bother driving 75 miles to be given the run around.)
Location: New Jersey
Down: 12k
Trade-In: 3k
Finaced remainder @ 2.9% for 5yrs $400.
$37,915 list price ((w/$800 destination) for EX-L, Navi and RES
Bottom line for my purchase:
$34,405 - INVOICE on EX-L, Navi &R ES (w/ $800 destination) www.edumnds.com
-$ 744 - 2% holdback in invoice price
- $1,250 - Honda manufacturer incentive for cash purchase
________
$32,411 - MY PURCHASE PRICE (then add sales tax, title, transfer plates, etc).
NEGOTIATION PROCESS
The negotiation was arduous - 45 minutes. First, as we all know, Odyssey's are at end of year and end of the 8 year cycle. Thus, no one should be paying close to or over invoice. Honda is also giving the $1,250 cash back or low financing (1.9% or 2.9%).
Using invoice as a starting point to negotiate purchase price, the real negotiation is how much of the 2% holdback you can negotiate. My view was the dealer have to give it ALL to me or I find another dealer to buy the car from. Others on this blog have said they got the full holdback (with a few getting a little more or a little less), and so did I thanks to those previous posters as I would have settled for less before I read this site. Dealer gave me the "we need to make a profit to keep the lights on" speech and I responded "I appreciate your goal is to maximize profit, and sorry, but my goal is to pay as little for they car as possible."
The salesman went to his "manager" twice, and then the manager tried to work on me himself. I never raised my offer price a dollar. I told them what I was willing to pay to not goto other area dealers. If not, thanks for giving me your best offer and I would come back to them if no one will give me my price. (I know from this site other dealers would give me my price). I was ready to leave twice and they said "hold on a second" to keep me there talking. They eventually gave me the full holdback ($744 on my model), thus, I got the car for $2,000 under invoice with the manufacturer cash back. Salesmen growled about not making any money on the deal, but not my problem. Dealer made the business decision to sell the car at my price.
For those in the dark why a dealer will negotiate so far, the reason they are willing to do that is because (i) they want to move more 2010 cars to get more 2011 Odyssey's from Honda where they can make more profit on 2011 models this summer, (ii) they get bonus incentives from Honda for moving units, and (iii) they make money on repairs while under warranty and beyond.
BOTTOM LINE
You determine you purchase price BEFORE setting foot in the car dealer. Stay FIRM and be ready to goto another dealer if you do not get the price you want. Another poster on this blog named "Hogan" has a good step by step process if you want ideas on negotiating. You'll need to read lots of posts to find it, but it's worth it.
First off, great job on standing firm for YOUR price. In my area I was all over every dealer for weeks and the best I could do for EX-L with NAV and RES was $32,850.00 including destination, but they wouldn't give me the 2.9% financing coupled with the $1250.00 dealer cash, EVEN WITH a 840 credit score. Ironically I was at a dealer ready to sign and drive after we had negotiated on the price, interest rate and trade value. Then the [non-permissible content removed] salesman presents me with 5.9% financing rate just as we are about to sign the papers!! I laughed in his face (felt bad about it afterwards). grabbed the wife and kids and dashed. We ended up with the Sienna that Saturday and couldn't be happier.
Thanks. I only got $400 below your price and no financing incentive since I took the $1,250 cash back. It happens - probably supply and demand. Someone earlier today posted they got $400 lower than me. Oh well.
We looked at the Sienna. Great redesign. Enjoy.
$32,416 - invoice (inc. destination)
-$1,250 - factory to dealer incentive
-$1,071 - holdback (3% of $35,715 MSRP)
_______
$30,095 - dealer's supposed bottom line
We ended up settling on $30,400 because they did the whole "we have to make a profit" thing. We maybe could have done a bit better by actually leaving (which we came very close to doing at one point) and trying other dealers, but ultimately the added hassle wouldn't have been worth it to us to save maybe $300.
The negotiation was similar to your experience, long and arduous with lots of back and forth. Our salesman, who had come off as a straight shooter, also made two trips to the manager who then had to get on the phone to the wholesaler. Ultimately we're very happy with the deal and that's all that matters.
They tell us supply is dwindling (I have no idea how true that is) but you figure it has to be true at some point with the 2011's coming out this summer. So there are still great deals to be had (and they we're able to arrange a dealer trade for one of the two color choices we wanted), but probably not for much longer. Good look to all those still looking!
MSRP: $35,715 (including destination)
Paid: $30,475
+ $130 for mudflaps
+ $25 doc fee
+ tax, title, license
Ended up with a 36 month, 15K lease, sign and drive (dealer paid 1st month - THEY DID NOT add 1st month back into the capital, they subtracted it from the agreed upon price. Several dealers tried to do this differently.)
When I signed the paperwork, it stated that my actual price paid for the van was $30,125 (not $30,605) - which covers the difference in first month payment.
Used the Hogan method, but never physically walked into dealership until the deal was complete. Negotiated vehicle price first, then negotiated trade in. Found a regional dealer who was willing to give trade-in appraisal off of pictures and service records. Had my wife (who was not involved in negotiations at all) bring our trade-in for local appraisal separate from negotations. Used that to get the most out of my local dealer. Could have potentially gotten a little more for my trade by actually driving to the regional dealer, but in the end, the salesperson at the regional dealer was very rude when I told her I was going to stay local, so I made the right choice.
Hope that helps!
Could you pl share the dealer's name, city where did you make the deal ? I am in CLT area and looking to get EX-L or EX-L w/RES. TIA.
I'm in the process of negotiating with a number of dealers in NJ and was just wondering who you finally went with, who provided you quotes and who was the dealer that got the bad reviews?
Also where did you get the information on the dealer reviews?
Right now my best price is $30356 before TTL and fees which I think is pretty good.
I'll say one thing from my research here in NJ is inventory does seem to be dwindling.
Thanks
what I found in Des Moines, Iowa is that inventory is keep low and going down smoothly. People just like EX and EX-L w/o RES trim. It seems to me they sell 10 in the past 30 days and now they have only 36 in hand with 18 EX-L w RES or both RES and NAVI.
Anyone know whether those dealer are going to get more 2010 from manufacturer or that's it, NO MORE. I might have to pull trigger earlier or if my wife insists on an Odyssey, we might not find the color we like.
By the way, anyone visiting this forum just happened to purchase an Odyssey in Des Moines Metro area? How much did you paid?
Thanks
The NJ area dealers are quoting 36.4k to 37.2k inclusive of dest. fees.
NY area dealers are quoting higher at 38.3k to 38.9k inclusive of dest fees.
The only other fees expected at NJ dealers are doc fees that range from $75-279, taxes (current rate) and DMV fees $300-400.
NY dealers claim that only other additional fees are taxes (current rate) and DMV of about $300
I called 7 dealers in total. All documented.
What do you all think? Am I even close? This is for 2010 Touring Black on Black. I haven't specified any accessories. I left that as negotiativing leverage to close a deal.
MSRP on this car is $41465
I purchased my car from Route 23 Honda in Pompton Plains NJ. Please keep in mind that I didn't really too much negotiating and leveraged the Zag price as well as Internet Price Quotes to Drive the price down.
As for the dealerships that had bad ratings do a search with "Dealership Name complaints". Some dealerships have some real shady tactics, however just because someone complains about a dealership doesn't mean you can't deal with them. Some of the dealer will size you up and if they think they can take advantage of you they will. For example I helped my friend get a good deal on a car and while writing the contract the salesman "kept forgetting" to list all the free accesssories promised in negotiation.
Also given the posts I have read on the message board you can probably find a better deal then I did if you have the time to negotiate and real shop around with different dealerships.
(1) 2010 is the last year of the current model. If you are going to pay 1000 over invoice might as well wait for the 2011 Odyssey that will be out in the Summer or go with the 2011 Sienna
(2) I checked ZAG.com using the zip code 10025 and the best ZAG price is 29795 for a dealership 50 miles away and a dealership that is 9 miles away has a price of 29855. You can use the zag price to negotiate with other dealers.
WHat I did was to request Internet Quote and I commented that the ZAG price I had.
I just leased a brand new 2010 EX-L (without RES) with a cap cost of 28,260 (factoring in the free first month payment)- that's $6000 under MSRP. And that includes all the buried lease costs for Honda's 0-0-0-0 current lease incentive.
You should be able to buy a brand new EX-L with RES (dvd) for well under $30,000. And, since Honda has really attractive low interest on 60 month loans (2.9%) and 1.9% on 36 mo loans right now, the payments should be close to a used Odyssey, since used car loans are typically much higher interest.
And, if you're paying cash or self-financing, then the price will be even lower since I've been told that Honda gives an extra $1250.00 off if you don't use their financing or leasing.
If you don't feel like you can negociate ask a brother, brother-in-law, father, friend to do the bargaining for you
Its all a BS game - too bad we have to play it, but you'd best learn the rules before you go into the coliseum for battle. The dealers prey on the weak, and it only takes one person who is misinformed or weak, and they've just ripped someone off in selling their 3yr old used car.....
Just got back from the dealer and signed the following deal:
EXL w/RES
Price w/Dest = $30,600
OTD pirce = $33,438 including NJ TTL
We are very happy with the deal and now they are trying to locate my color, Polished Metal. I call just about every dealer in the state and there are only 2! Might be going with choice # 2.
One thing that seems true, at least here in NJ, is inventories are dwindling so if you want a good deal you might want to move quickly.
While the price with Dest was not the lowest, their fees certainly were and it was the lowest OTD price I recieved. When I went into round 2 and indicated $200 lower ($33,300 OTD) than my actual best price. Most said they could not move but one said they would. However, I ended up using the local dealer because my Bank of American rate would have went from 3.09% to 3.41%. The lowest bid dealer was not an authorized BOA delaer so that would have cost me another $150 over the life of the loan.
I used the Hogan method but went with 100% internet as PA Dave did, no calls until best deal was negotiated. Only issue I had was I forgot to delete my phone number from one of my email responses so the guy called me immediately. Just didnt pick up. 3 must read posts are 24549, 24836 and 24875. Thanks guys and to everyone else on this forum. The information gathered from reading through this forum until after midnight a few days in a row while my wife continually tells me to go to bed was absolutely invaluable. I would have never gotten the price I did.
I'm looking to pull the trigger very shortly on a 2010 EX-L w/RES - but I'm not having any luck with the numbers that everyone here is having.
The best I've found so far is 31,050 - that includes the $1250 cashback - and they are locating the color of our choice.
I went through zap.com and didn't receive any local offers under 31,200 - so comparing to that I'm happy with what the original quote I mentioned above. Using the Hogan method with a price of 31,050 - almost all dealers said there was no way they could do that. Just seems that they should have more room going by most posts here.
In which state are you located. From What I am reading different regions will have different prices, but still from what deals others have been getting it seems you should be able to better. Also besides the ZAG price did you submit a request from one of the automotive websites to get internet offers. I ended getting a better internet price by using automotive.com compared to ZAG.
Also if you using the Hogan method try to follow it exactly as Hogan described. I had a friend who tried to use it and he wasn't being successful. One of the reasons was the way he was speaking to the dealers, the dealers thought they can manipulate him. He was being to soft. You don't have to be harsh, but you need to be firm.
For my friend I started to call dealerships and followed Hogans method. I was firm in saying that I work long hours, six days a week etc. and that I am shopping around all dealership and will go with the best price. From the same dealerships he had called I was able to get some of the dealerships to come down 1500 - 2000 on the sticker price for a CPO 2007 Odyssey.
This time last month, deals may have been better. There were more Odysseys available for sale, and it was the end of the sales quarter. Both supply and sales quotas influence the price.
One item to keep in mind is the $1250 incentive could end this month, you just never know. As I mentioned before my experience seem to show inventories dwindling so that would most definitely affect price IMO and could spell the end of the incentive.
I used Hogan's method but went 100% over email with no phone numbers. Have you tried to tell them you got xxx lower offer as Hogan's suggests? Here's how I worded that in my email:
"Thanks for providing me with the information and spending time with me but I wanted to let you know I got an OTD quote of $xxxx ($xxxx w/dest) including all fees and TTL so I think I'm going to pursue that deal. It was about $xxxx lower than your OTD price and I realize you probably can't beat it but I just wanted to let you know as a courtesy since you were so helpful and quick in responding. If anything changes I’ll certainly reach out to you.
Thanks again as I greatly appreciated the assistance and I'll certainly keep you in mind in a couple of years when it’s time to purchase a new my next car."
You might want to try getting the Internet sales managers off the Honda web site like I did and email as many are you feel would be close enough to go to and purchase.
If you have not done so read those 3 thread numbers I posted above.
Good luck but I think you still have some more room if you follow the system.
Thank you for taking the time to post messages. Figured I'd share my story to continue to pay it forward. Here is my experience in St. Louis:
1. Started with TrueCar.com and got quotes from 3 dealers.
2. Emailed the remaining 3 dealers within 25 miles for quotes.
3. Got 5 quotes back ranging from $31,147-$33,349 and one that just said they would give the best OTD price.
4. Ignored all the calls I got from the dealers and continued to communicate through email by spelling out what we were looking for and saying I was going to visit 1, maybe 2 dealer the following weekend to get the van. It helped me guage inventory and how responsive the internet sales team really were.
5. Found the dealer that was the furtherest away and suggested that since he was the furthest, I would not be able to take advantage of any of the service deals and add ons that he had. He called back saying he could lower to $30,700 + $199 Dealer fee.
6. Told the other 5 dealers that I had an offer for sub $31k to see if they could compete. The dealer closest to me said they would match and still include the 2yrs oil changes and other perks. A few others came down a bit, but said that was the best they could do.
7. I had a trade-in and knew what I wanted for it. Walked in and they were able to come back and give me that price.
8. They had the color and features in stock, so off we went.
All together, this only took less than a week. I didn't have to play any tricks saying someone quoted me a lower price, just explained to a dealer that they were the least convenient and they came back with a better price. All in all, definitely happy. At the end of the day we got the van for $30,899 + tax, title, etc. Not the lowest on the thread, but at a price where we were happy.
Thanks again to everyone that has posted thier experiences. And good luck to the others just starting out.
Thanks everyone for all the advice. I probably have caved if I hadn't been so well educated. This forum is freaking awesome. We will probably go ahead and get take the offer for the new, since they don't seem to want to budge on the used. Weird. It was so funny because instead of giving me better offers on the one I wanted, they brought me other used cars that I was totally not going to buy. Oh well. Too bad we have to pay an arm and a leg for California tax.
I think there are a few factors in play here.
(1) The $1250 incentive is not offered for the CPO cars.
(2) Dealerships and Manufacters make a lot of money in the CPO market. They are essentially selling the car twice by inspecting the vehicle and adding a warranty.
Also there is a good Market for CPOs. I am helping my friend to look for a CPO, but all in all the deal for a new is just better. Not only that the CPO cars are moving fast, so a lot of dealers don't really want to move down on the price. For examplle one Saturday I went with my friend to check out a few dealerships and I was surprised how many CPO Honda's were sold.
My Guess is there are a lot of people who didn't compare what they would pay for a new and didn't realize the price was not that far off. Actually a few months back before I was serious about getting the Odyssey I went in to a dealer to see what price points he gives me for a New vs CPO. Of course the dealer didn't mention all the incentives on the new and the prices people are actually paying for the 2010, which made the CPO look more attractive.
Bottomline people should do a some research before buying a car.
Actually this dealer I went too contacted me back when I submitted for Internet Quotes. He was also giving some garbage about how they are a reputable dealer and they are willing to give a fair price. In fact when I told him the price I had he gave me a total break down of cost including Rebates and Hold Backs etc. and basically was saying he wanted to make 400 profit and it better to go with a reputable dealer and when I go to other dealerships they may play tricks etc.
I responded too him that if you are so reputable, why were you trying to keep the $1250 rebate totally hidden from me. In the end I went with a dealer who gave me a good price and I knew other who had good experiences with the dealership.
Bottomline its a game and they will try to get as much profit as they can.
What I would say to the guy is that I am going to leave now to visit the other dealer and buy the car for 29,200, so unless you can beat that, see ya......and oh by the way, I'm not sure I'm comfortable working with you as it seems your pricing on the used car makes no sense.....if you're pricing a used car like that, its hard to believe I'm getting a competitive price on a new car too
then just begin walking and watch the power shift.......put them on the defensive
$30,767 - EX-L w/ DVD player
Pinstripes, door edge guards, splash guards, wheel locks (all their cars on the lot have this junk) - $650
Tax, documentation, transfer plates fee - $652
OTD - $32,069
What do you think? Can I go lower? Is the hassle worth it? Should I pay his list on the add ons? What about the holdback? (I heard somewhere between $600 and $1000)
I need to buy in the next 5 days. My Mitsu-crap died.
I am sooooo glad I found this forum before I walked in there this morning. That just makes me sick to my stomach. They treated me like I was insane for offering what I did. I wonder if they would have acted differently if I had told them I had a degree in accounting. Because even though I know nothing about cars, I really do understand money. But I was just a lady with a baby. Grr. I'm mad. It was really funny though, because when I started buckling the baby into the carrier, they started hopping. But were still being jerks. Ick.
Again, thank you all so much for being out there in the internet and saving me thousands of dollars. I really think I will be able to walk away from whatever deal I make totally comfortable with it. I feel much smarter than I did two days ago.
I've followed the Hogan method to the "T" - I pretty much copied and pasted the "email template" - of course I edited it abit just to personalize if needed (if we spoke on the phone or email, etc).
I used the lowest zap quote as my "quote that I would be persuing" and that was 30,122. No one in my area (Pittsburgh) responded favorably. Most didn't even respond. Here is one of my emails so you can see the wording:
"I wanted to thank you for the help and time you've offered - but just FYI I got a quote of $30,122 which I'm going to persue after I finish the sale of my car (private party). Its $1,345 lower than what you gave me, and I realize you probably can't match it, but I just wanted to let you know as a courtesy for all the help in our emails in the last couple days"
The only problem with that 30,122 is:
1.) Its over 275 miles away from me.
2.) There is a $399 processing fee - and the dealer wouldn't give me an OTD until I came down (I bet that meant more hidden fees)
3.) Didn't have any colors we were interested in.
So to get the best zap.com quote I would have to drive 5+ hours, possibly find the price is not as attractive as I thought, and settle for a color we didnt want.
Walking away from a dealer isn't hard when the dealer is local - walking away after driving 5+ hours is a little different IMO.
So here are all the quotes I got for the Pittsburgh area for 2010 EX-L w/RES:
31050
31166
31171
31300
31467
31566
32416
Now after sending the Hogan email to any dealer I worked with - I either didn't get a reply OR I got "They either made a mistake - or they're lying to you. We can't match that"
I thought they must be playing hardball - and I thanked them for their time thinking if a day or two past they would cave in, but nothing. I did find one dealer that was willing to come down and get the color we wanted - but only at 31,050.
I did get 2.84% for 60 months through BoA - so that did make be feel better
We're quite satisfied so far! I hope you'll enjoy your Odyssey just like us! :shades: