dave594: You don't have to yell. I realize pressing the gas pedal is not required, but turning your car over two and three times before your engine starts should not be required either!
Anyway, you failed to answer my question, is this common with the Odyssey when cold weather hits or is our case isolated?
Seems to be more common with Ody's in the first month or two of ownership only. Same thing happened with my 2001 during it's first winter. Nothing in the remaining 30,000 miles and 2 1/2 winters. Maybe something is taking a while to break in...
I have a 2004 Ody and had a problem starting it last week. The van had previously been warmed. I was at the mall about an hour, and came out and it cranked for about 10 seconds, but did not start. I paused cranked for about 10 more seconds and it started.
I was also told to prime the fuel injection system by turning the key until all dashboard lights are on, wait for some to go off, then start the engine. It has worked for me since.
The owners manual does state that you should not crank the engine for more than 15 seconds. If the engine does not start to press the accelerator halfway and crank the engine at the same time. Then to release the accelerator if the engine starts. If the engine still fails to start to hold down the accelerator all the way down and try to start the engine at the same time to clear any flooding.
....fuel rail pressure regulator checked. It might be failing to hold the required pressure (around 45 psi I think) over time allowing the pressure to drop and thus delayed starting.
That was me. I got rid of the Sedona 3 months ago, because it started stalling in the middle of driving again at less than 3000 miles. I didn't have another vehicle in the meantime and it was definitely unsafe to drive, so I ended up trading it for the Ody. I really wanted to go lemon with it, but my husband couldn't deal with it anymore. He decided to take a loss (and it was quite a huge one) than to fight. The whole thing still leaves a bad taste in my mouth.
I just started leasing a new Odyssey with the leather and DVD player. My lease on my 01 Odyssey EX is up in February. I didn't like what they offered me for a trade, so I started the new lease without trading it in. Today I sold the van for $18,700. I'd like to see an owner of a Ford/Chevy/Dodge 2001 van with an original MSRP of around $26,500 accomplish that.
Anyway, I have noticed the starting problems with the new van too. Thanks for the information on how to handle it.
I agree the tote suggestion is a very good one, and will heed the "missle" warning. I also considered the TV could get slammed if you stomp the brakes, but did not know they made these totes, which would be better for viewing purposes, as I simply prop the front end of ours up. I checked Ebay to see a guy selling the Steel Horse Tote brand mentioned by wpallkowski new for 65.00 with 10.00 shipping. Think I might pick one up, being the Ebay hound I am...ebay, pawnshops??...seems to be a pattern.
Re: cold starts. Our 2003 ody just hit 3k, and it alway starts the first crank. Have not had an opportunity for super cold weather, as we live in Tucson. Its supposed to get down to 20 degrees here tonight though (about as cold as it gets in Tucson), so I will see if it starts right up tommorow AM.
Long time no post. Here is some info on winter tires and doing the job yourself that I searched for and could not find. Maybe it will help the next guy.
I ordered from Tire Rack: * Bridgestone Blizzak WS-50, 225/60QR16 (Part#: 26R6BZWS50) * New steel wheels, black, 16X6.5 (Part#: X45441) * Mount and balanced (no charge)
I installed in my garage in about 1 hour: * Read owners manual. * Lifted rear of van using hydraulic floor jack. * Placed jack stands at jack points identified in the owners manual. * Removed regular tires/wheels and installed winter tires/wheels. * Lowered van, torqued lugs to factory spec (80ft/lbs). * Lifted front of van using hydraulic floor jack. * Placed jack stands at jack points identified in the owners manual. * Removed regular tires/wheels and installed winter tires/wheels. * Lowered car, torqued lugs to factory spec (80ft/lbs).
How to jack both rear wheels of the ground: * There is a heavy steel "flange" welded perpendicular to a thick tubular support about 2.5' in from the rear of the van. * Center the jack on this flange and lift. * Both wheels come off the ground, slide jack stands under jack points specified in the manual.
How to jack both front wheels of the ground: * There is a heavy rod steel "V" welded to a thick tubular support about 1.5' in from the front of the van. * Center the jack on this "V" and lift. * Both wheels come off the ground, slide jack stands under jack points specified in the manual.
Important points to remember: * Read the owners manual. * Know how to use your tools. * Place chocks behind tires opposite the location of the floor jack when lifting. * Mark each tire/wheel for position so you know where each one goes next spring. * Store your tires/wheels in a cool, dry place not exposed to sunlight. * Tires should not be stored in a vertical position (i.e. on the wear patch). * The van is 5600+ lbs. empty. Make sure your lifting equipment and stands can support this weight. * The "rails" under the sill of van did NOT crumple when the weight of the van was supported by the jack points sitting on jack stands. * Next time I will get the whole van on stands and do the tire swap at one time as I will be rotating the regular tires/wheels. * "Break the torque" (i.e. loosen the lugs) BEFORE you get the van on the lift or stands. * Use common sense, seek professional help if you have any doubts that you can do the job.
Have any of you Ody owners scratched your front bumper and successfully re-painted it? We have a white '03 and the front right corner of the bumper got "rubbed" on a curb mainly on the portion that turns down and in (about 1/2" x 4" scar). It is clearly visible when walking up to the car from a distance. Of course the bumper is some type of painted plastic composite. I was considering trying to smooth it with a file and then trying the touch-up paint I got when I purchased the car. Any repair ideas before I try this would be appreciated. Thanks.
Has anyone added a remote start to their Odyssey? I'm trying to get information on adding a remote start, what impact that would have on my warranty and anti-theft that is already installed. It's freezing cold in Minnesota, and the remote start idea is becoming very appealing to me.
Odyssey owners are posting problems occuring as frequently as did owners of Chrysler minivans. My 2001 Chevy Blazer seems nicer all the time as I read of problems people are having with both the Odyssey and Sienna minivans. Hope none of you have as many problems with your Odyssey that I did with my 1970 Dodge van.
Per your suggestions, I turned the electrical on first, waited for the indicators to disappear (also heard a noise coming from the engine bay, perhaps the priming which was mentioned), and then turned the key... engined turned over instantaneously. Cold starting is not an issue for our Odyssey... user error!! Thanks for the feedback!!
Just past 500 miles. At first I thought the seats were uncomfortable, but they seem to be growing on me. This is our first mini van, can't understand why we didn't make the change sooner.
My son's 2001 Odyssey EX seats are VERY comfortable and possibly the most comfortable seats of any vehicle that I have ridden in. The seats in another son's 2002 Grand Caravan Sport are not as comfortable as the seats in the 2001 Odyssey EX.
Are talking about cloth or leather interior? I found there to be a significant difference in the comfort of the cloth versus the leather. The leather seats had more cushion and were much more form fitting. The cloth seats felt "boardy." My old '96 DGC-LE had more comfortable seats than the cloth in the Ody IMO.
There is another factor to consider regarding Ody and Sienna ownership which is safety. Please check out web sites for government and insurance institute crash test results for your vehicle versus the Ody and Sienna.
Well, I went ahead and got the craftsman torque wrench. I'm sure it will be fine although I'd have taken the Snap-On if money was not a concern.
But, now I'm trying to find out the lug nut size on my Odyssey. Someone told me they were 13/16, but I know Honda is metric so that can't be right. I took out a 17mm (too small) and 19mm socket (rocks a hair when on nut). I'm thinking its 18mm.
Any thoughts on this? Don't want to strip those nuts.
Looking to plunge into Minivan in a month or 2 due to need for more room. For the first time, I drove a minivan today - chose the Ody as first drive (i also plan to drive the usual suspects - Sienna and Quest).
Currently I drive a Saab 9-5 wagon that we love, but it does not have the room.
My driving impressions:
1) Car like ride - have heard this before, but did not believe until I actually drove it.
2) Can't see why one would opt for the EX, since LX has same motor, TCS, ABS, etc. Maybe a few creature comforts, but this is a minivan...i'd pocket the savings and get the LX
3) Spartan interior - compared to my Saab with burled walnut dash, etc, the Ody is like a ryder van.
4) Driving position seemed strange - I am 5'8 - but didn't feel confident that i could sit comfortably - maybe i didn't play around with seat position,etc. Maybe i can never feel comfortable - might be because the Saab driving position is more ergonomic, or jsut that all vans are like this.
5) titl wheel doesn't really tilt. poor design.
6) Spacious interior - but not as wide as other vans - i like the magic seat - but having to remove the headrests seem unecessary.
7) Clever center console
I was pleased with EX, it is a nice, but spartan, design. Basic transport, with good engine and nice features like TCS, EBD, 4wheel disc ABS.
Dealer i visited has 12 Odysseys. Clearly willing to deal. I would opt for LX - pocket the 2-3K extra for boat upgrades...;>
Plan is to test drive the Quest next and compare notes.
i am hesitant myself about a system that potentially takes acceleration authority away from the driver. if i increase demand, the last thing i would expect and would want would be the car's engine output to be de-rated.
i'm curious also to know if VSC causes pads to be used up more rapidly. maybe if you're always driving aggressively.
of course, if were a racer and i needed to get around pylons or through Ss quickly or if i like to push it in the corners, then i'd value the technology.
but in a mini-van?
i'm sure there are numerous scenarios where the system will help, but the premise is that we aren't driving properly and we should let some engineers in a lab decide how the vehicle should drive and respond to our control inputs for us.
Wonder if anyone has seen those magnetic hood protector/deflectors. Or is the OEM one that Honda provides better? It costs a lot more that's for sure........
I don't understand what is with the bra? They are UGLY! Can you leave these things on all through the year? I see people driving around with the bras on their car in downpours, snowstorms, etc. That really can screw up your paint if you let the moisture stay under the fabric. If you just want to avoid the rock chips on the paint, I saw on Motorweek awhile back that 3M (or some other company) had some type of clear film you could apply to the hood to protect the paint from being damaged by rocks. I would prefer something like that to an ugly bra.
I think the privacy glass is simply darkened glass - which I don't think lowers heat - just light levels. Our wagon has solar glass - but is not darkened - to reduce radiant heat.
Is the solar glass effective? Does your wagon seem cooler? (I suppose this is a subjective topic, unless one has had experience in two of the same vehicles, but with one of the two lacking the solar glass.)
Wagon cools down fine when hot - i live in CT so very hot days are not common. But it is subjective. There is less glass area in my wagon v the Odyssey. I would opt for the glass if you live in south/southwest.
I own a '97 Ody LX. Though underpowered, we've been real pleased with the ownership experience. We're now considering a 2004 Ody EX or a Honda-Certified '02 or'03 Ody EX (cloth). Kind of concerned about the problems with the power sliding doors and the transmission. Has anyone had any experiences with the Certified vehicles relative to the power doors and transmission. Also, a dealer quoted me $1500 over invoice on any new Ody (LX or EX). That doesn't sound like a good deal to me. Any thoughts are appreciated....
I'm headed up to snow covered Lake Tahoe in the '02 Odyssey and wonder what TCS will provide in the snow. Yes I have chains - but hate putting them on and will avoid them if possible.
Will TCS get me in and out of a snow covered driveway or parking lot? Will it suffice in the snow if driving under 35 mph?
can't say I've ever pushed this button on except to see if it lights up.
The traction control is always active pushing the button and making the light come on the dash disables the traction control system. So you will want to leave the button alone in the snow unless it becomes bothersome and you dont think you need it...
Comments
Anyway, you failed to answer my question, is this common with the Odyssey when cold weather hits or is our case isolated?
Steve, Host
I was also told to prime the fuel injection system by turning the key until all dashboard lights are on, wait for some to go off, then start the engine. It has worked for me since.
The owners manual does state that you should not crank the engine for more than 15 seconds. If the engine does not start to press the accelerator halfway and crank the engine at the same time. Then to release the accelerator if the engine starts. If the engine still fails to start to hold down the accelerator all the way down and try to start the engine at the same time to clear any flooding.
Hope this helps.
I'm hoping to have better luck with the Ody.
Anyway, I have noticed the starting problems with the new van too. Thanks for the information on how to handle it.
Re: cold starts. Our 2003 ody just hit 3k, and it alway starts the first crank. Have not had an opportunity for super cold weather, as we live in Tucson. Its supposed to get down to 20 degrees here tonight though (about as cold as it gets in Tucson), so I will see if it starts right up tommorow AM.
I ordered from Tire Rack:
* Bridgestone Blizzak WS-50, 225/60QR16 (Part#: 26R6BZWS50)
* New steel wheels, black, 16X6.5 (Part#: X45441)
* Mount and balanced (no charge)
I installed in my garage in about 1 hour:
* Read owners manual.
* Lifted rear of van using hydraulic floor jack.
* Placed jack stands at jack points identified in the owners manual.
* Removed regular tires/wheels and installed winter tires/wheels.
* Lowered van, torqued lugs to factory spec (80ft/lbs).
* Lifted front of van using hydraulic floor jack.
* Placed jack stands at jack points identified in the owners manual.
* Removed regular tires/wheels and installed winter tires/wheels.
* Lowered car, torqued lugs to factory spec (80ft/lbs).
How to jack both rear wheels of the ground:
* There is a heavy steel "flange" welded perpendicular to a thick tubular support about 2.5' in from the rear of the van.
* Center the jack on this flange and lift.
* Both wheels come off the ground, slide jack stands under jack points specified in the manual.
How to jack both front wheels of the ground:
* There is a heavy rod steel "V" welded to a thick tubular support about 1.5' in from the front of the van.
* Center the jack on this "V" and lift.
* Both wheels come off the ground, slide jack stands under jack points specified in the manual.
Important points to remember:
* Read the owners manual.
* Know how to use your tools.
* Place chocks behind tires opposite the location of the floor jack when lifting.
* Mark each tire/wheel for position so you know where each one goes next spring.
* Store your tires/wheels in a cool, dry place not exposed to sunlight.
* Tires should not be stored in a vertical position (i.e. on the wear patch).
* The van is 5600+ lbs. empty. Make sure your lifting equipment and stands can support this weight.
* The "rails" under the sill of van did NOT crumple when the weight of the van was supported by the jack points sitting on jack stands.
* Next time I will get the whole van on stands and do the tire swap at one time as I will be rotating the regular tires/wheels.
* "Break the torque" (i.e. loosen the lugs) BEFORE you get the van on the lift or stands.
* Use common sense, seek professional help if you have any doubts that you can do the job.
Hope this helps. Good luck and happy holidays!
Phil
Thanks.
My 2001 Chevy Blazer seems nicer all the time as I read of problems people are having with both the Odyssey and Sienna minivans.
Hope none of you have as many problems with your Odyssey that I did with my 1970 Dodge van.
Just past 500 miles. At first I thought the seats were uncomfortable, but they seem to be growing on me. This is our first mini van, can't understand why we didn't make the change sooner.
Is the above sufficient for torquing lug nuts? Or must I get the wrench that is specifically made for this purpose. Sears makes this version also.
But, now I'm trying to find out the lug nut size on my Odyssey. Someone told me they were 13/16, but I know Honda is metric so that can't be right. I took out a 17mm (too small) and 19mm socket (rocks a hair when on nut). I'm thinking its 18mm.
Any thoughts on this? Don't want to strip those nuts.
Currently I drive a Saab 9-5 wagon that we love, but it does not have the room.
My driving impressions:
1) Car like ride - have heard this before, but did not believe until I actually drove it.
2) Can't see why one would opt for the EX, since LX has same motor, TCS, ABS, etc. Maybe a few creature comforts, but this is a minivan...i'd pocket the savings and get the LX
3) Spartan interior - compared to my Saab with burled walnut dash, etc, the Ody is like a ryder van.
4) Driving position seemed strange - I am 5'8 - but didn't feel confident that i could sit comfortably - maybe i didn't play around with seat position,etc. Maybe i can never feel comfortable - might be because the Saab driving position is more ergonomic, or jsut that all vans are like this.
5) titl wheel doesn't really tilt. poor design.
6) Spacious interior - but not as wide as other vans - i like the magic seat - but having to remove the headrests seem unecessary.
7) Clever center console
I was pleased with EX, it is a nice, but spartan, design. Basic transport, with good engine and nice features like TCS, EBD, 4wheel disc ABS.
Dealer i visited has 12 Odysseys. Clearly willing to deal. I would opt for LX - pocket the 2-3K extra for boat upgrades...;>
Plan is to test drive the Quest next and compare notes.
i'm curious also to know if VSC causes pads to be used up more rapidly. maybe if you're always driving aggressively.
of course, if were a racer and i needed to get around pylons or through Ss quickly or if i like to push it in the corners, then i'd value the technology.
but in a mini-van?
i'm sure there are numerous scenarios where the system will help, but the premise is that we aren't driving properly and we should let some engineers in a lab decide how the vehicle should drive and respond to our control inputs for us.
yikes.
Steve, Host
http://www.magnetbra.com/models.html
and
http://www.weathertech.com/store/vehsearch.asp?make_id=21&yea- r_no=2004&veh_id=281&item_group_id=5&veh_opt_choice_i- d=0
I'm worried however about what the paint would look like after a few years of use in regards to fading, etc. I'd have a two-toned hood.
Do you know if this 3M material has any fading issues?
Steve, Host
http://www.3m.com/US/auto_marine_aero/auto/pdf/holdingfast_no16.p- df
Steve, Host
Anyone?
Will TCS get me in and out of a snow covered driveway or parking lot? Will it suffice in the snow if driving under 35 mph?
can't say I've ever pushed this button on except to see if it lights up.
Steve, Host
yes the tires are the originals Michelen Synergy tires - they only have 17k miles and are in good shape.
So does the TCS buy me anything in the snow?
thanks for pointing that out.
Do you have any experience driving with the Odyssey in the snow? or have you had to put chains on?
BTW; I heard there is 2 feet of fresh powder up at Tahoe (lake level).