BMW 3-Series Maintenance and Repair

12627293132105

Comments

  • kdshapirokdshapiro Member Posts: 5,751
    The 3 series has a very solid road feel, "a little muscle" against the steering wheel is normal.

     

    My 3 series steering wheel is most of the time smooth as butter. It gets jumpy going down a gravel or rock road or riding over very bad road surfaces.

     

    But on smooth, level and well paved roads, there should be virtually no vibration or road-feel in the steering wheel. If you let go of the wheel the car should go straight. On a "perfect" road surface, if you can find one, going at highway speeds the steering wheel feel should be perfect. Pressing the brakes, soft or hard at highway speeds, should not result in any vibration on a "perfect" road.

     

    edit - kydfx beat me to it.
  • paulepaule Member Posts: 382
    One more comment: generally it's a good idea to check steering "pull" in a parking lot. A lot of roads have a crown to them to facilitate good draining during rain storms. The crown is almost universally to the right (higher in the middle of the road, lower to the edges). It is not all that uncommon to find your car pulling to the right while driving down the road if you take your hands off the steering wheel. That's why probably 90% of the complaints of pulling are to the right side instead of to the left (unless you're racing NASCAR :) ).
  • webby1webby1 Member Posts: 209
    It sure sound like a bad tire.

    My 2004 330i is perfect...no pull either way and no vibration at any speed....however I did have the rotors replaced at approx 3000 km....I was getting a vibration in the steering wheel when applying the brakes at high speed. The rotors were warped and BMW replaced under warranty.

    Perfect now.

    Regards,

    Webby
  • bmwtombmwtom Member Posts: 5
    On a 2004 325i, the owners manual states that a 'signal' can be set letting you know that the doors have been locked by the remote. It implies that no security system is required. What is the signal?

     

    First visit to the dealer this week for some 'hesitation' Any other things I need to have checked while in?

     

    Thanks.
  • paulepaule Member Posts: 382
    You can have the parking lights flash to signal the doors have been locked.
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    Oh shut up! :) Quit teasing!

     

    I love Taos - I learned to ski there back in the mid 80's. I can only imagine the fun on driving up to the lodge... *sigh*

     

    -Paul
  • mchen39084mchen39084 Member Posts: 3
    I would like to report a case of potentially fatal engine malfunction. My car, a 2005 BMW330Xi (VIN: WBAEW53425PN37870), shows an intermittent problem where the engine suddenly self-accelerates while the driver is still pressing the brake pedal.

     

    I bought this car on October 27, 2004 from Capital Cities Import Cars in Glenmont (a suburb of Albany), New York. The car was assembled in Regensburg, Germany. I followed the instructions given in the owner’s manual during the car’s ‘breaking-in’ period. The car has used premium gas (93 Octane) only.

     

    Since November 21, 2004 there have been five occurrences. Three of the five occurrences took place on December 18, 2004. During each occurrence, the car engine suddenly accelerated from ~ 600 RPM to ~1600 RPM, while my (right) foot was on the brake. I felt a strong force moving the car forward, and fortunately the movement was still preventable. During the last occurrence, after I shifted the gear to ‘N (neutral)’, the engine accelerated to ~6000 RPM for ~5 seconds before I turned the car off completely. (My right foot was tightly pressing the brake during the entire event.) The car was restarted on neutral and behaved as normal. In all of the occurrences, the car was on dry land and the car traveled at least for two hours prior to the problem. The outdoor temperature was above 38 °F.

     

    Initially, I suspected it may be a problem with the floor mats. The car is equipped with carpet floor mats provided by the car dealership, and I put a thin rubber mat on each mat for protection. In the early two occurrences of the unintended engine-acceleration, I was not sure whether or not the rubber mat in the front of the driver’s seat had touched the gas pedal. Later, I trimmed the rubber mat near the gas pedal and clamped the rubber mat to the carpet floor mat to ensure non-interference. It is clear that the rubber mat played no role in the three occurrences on December 18, 2004.

     

    I sent the car back to the dealership on December 21, 2004, and as I understand, the service department has not observed any re-occurrence of the problem. I have informed the BMW worldwide Headquarter of my problem by e-mail.

      

     

    It is of no surprise that the problem is intermittent and difficult to diagnose. However, the problem can potentially cause fatal accidents. I hope that both NHTSA and BMW will pay attention on this matter immediately. Other information will be provided, if and when requested.
  • paulepaule Member Posts: 382
    What was the reason for putting the rubber mat underneath the carpeted floor mats?

     

    Did the problem only occur after you put the rubber mat under the carpeted floor mats or did it happen before you did this?

     

    One more question: do you or did you use the cruise control on the day(s) that this occurred?
  • mchen39084mchen39084 Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for your questions.

     

    1)&2)Rubber mats are put above (not beneath) the carpet mats to prevent salt/water soaking in the carpet.

     

    3) I did not use the cruise control on the day of the first occurrence, because I drove the car in town. I did use the cruise control on the days of other occurrences. However, the cruise control was off when the last occurrence took place.
  • kdshapirokdshapiro Member Posts: 5,751
    Let us know how it turns out.

     

    Unfortunately unintended acceleration, IMHO is an under-reported issue with cars. Over the years I've that happen a number of times with American, Japanese and German cars. Most of the time it was not a repeat occurence, but those "episodes" left me scratching my head as to whether or not it really happened.

     

    Never happened with my BMW however. Keep us posted.
  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 267,589
    1) Take out the regular mats... Instead of using both..

     

    2) The revving up to 1600 RPM would not bother me "too" much.. As that shouldn't override any brake pressure, or even cause the car to really "jump" when the brake pressure is relieved.... But, up to 6K RPM? that is a problem.. Hopefully, it is due to the floor mats.. Most people use winter mats instead of carpeted mats... Just remove the carpeted ones.. If your rubber mats aren't sufficient, go to the dealer and buy a nice set of the BMW winter mats... about $90 just for the front..

     

    regards,

    kyfdx

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  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    makes nice deep grooved rubber mats too.

     

    -Paul
  • paulepaule Member Posts: 382
    I would definitely pull the carpeted mats out of the vehicle and only use the rubber mats. I'm not sure what you're using for rubber mats but I'd make sure they are designed\fit your make and model car. It sounds like you've already addressed this by cutting the mats.

     

    There is a reason why I asked about the cruise control. I had a Dodge Avenger (remember them?) a while ago and had an unintended acceleration\cruise issue. I had the head gasket changed under warranty and the dealer technician apparently replaced the OEM bolt that held the throttle\cruise bracket with another bolt because he lost the first one.

     

    Well, guess what happened. The bolt was too long and caused the throttle to hang wide open. I was on a two lane highway when the cruise control would not shut off. I had enough sense to realize what was happening and I was able to pull off the road with my foot on the brake as hard as I could press and shut the engine off while I was still going about 20 mph.

     

    This obviously does not sound like what happened with you however. Keep us informed as to what you eventually find out.
  • bimmergalbimmergal Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2002 325i and the car wouldnt start one evening. the dealer said the batteries needed to be changed. Since its only been 3 years, is this too early for a battery change?moreover, the dealer states that since the car does lesser miles than average, the battery died sooner. Is this true?
  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 267,589
    Who knows about the "less than normal" argument.. But, a battery going bad in three years is not that unusual..

     

    It isn't like you have a choice.... Can't start the car without it.. if it is bad, it is bad..

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  • bimmergalbimmergal Member Posts: 2
    I am getting charged $180 for a replacement - parts + labor? Is this too high a price?

     

    I need to get my tires replaced too...would you recommend the dealership or sams/costco?
  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 267,589
    For a dealer.. .. sounds about right.. I've heard as high as $250....

     

    Tires... find somewhere else.. Costco or Sams only if you know someone that has taken a luxury car there for tires and recommends that particular store.. Otherwise, find a good independent or chain tire store....

     

    regards,

    kyfdx

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  • cbfreemancbfreeman Member Posts: 5
    I have a 2004 330i and was recently hit with a tiny rock which spawned a 10 inch crack. I'm debating whether to report this to my insurance company (Progressive) or not, and have been shopping around for quotes on getting it repaired. My BMW dealer quoted my at close to $1000. However, I found a local shop which would use an aftermarket windshield and cost me $400. Any idea if there is any real distinction between the two? Would there be any effect on things like the rain sensing wipers?

     

    Any advice would be great.
  • webby1webby1 Member Posts: 209
    I also have a 2004 330i and had to replace the windshield about a month ago. After market was approx 500.00 and the dealer was 950.00. I went with the dealer since ( according to BMW ) that only BMW can get the original windshield... BMW logo on the windshield

    After market claims that it is the same windshield but BMW dealer disagrees. Also, if you lease the car BMW will not accept it back or will charge you for the original windshield upon return. After market places take approx 3 hrs whereas BMW took a day and a half.

    They test for water leaks, test drive to check for wind noises and make sure rain sensors work properly.

    I was impressed how they fixed it, can not tell from new.

    Regards,

    Webby
  • cbfreemancbfreeman Member Posts: 5
    Thanks. Did you at all inquire at to whether such items were covered by warranty? I bought the car new from the dealer only 3 months ago.
  • paulepaule Member Posts: 382
    A rock hitting your windshield should be covered under your comprehensive insurance. Sometimes you can find a windshield shop (probably not your dealer) that would cover at least part of the deductible.

     

    I've had multiple windshields replaced and have never seen an increase in my insurance rates. I use Allstate however and I don't have any experience with Progressive.

     

    You could at least call your insurance company and ask them if your rates would go up and if they would cover an OEM replacement without giving your name.

     

    I highly doubt any type of warranty would cover a rock hitting your windshield since it is not a manufacturing defect.
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    but it wasn't because of a rock. We had a VERY hot day in the desert (probably over 120 or so) and a crack developed in the bottom of the windshield. BMW looked it over and could find no trace of a rock strike and they said they'd replace it.

     

    BMW of Bakersfield, CA - can't be beat for service.

     

    -Paul
  • webby1webby1 Member Posts: 209
    Unfortunately, it is not covered under warranty. I did check and unless it is a manufacturing defect BMW will not cover it

    Re Insurance, it varies......my insurance ( Canada ) will cover 3 windshield claims in 3 yrs regardless of cost.

    Hope this helps.

    Regards,

    Webby
  • cartalkcartalk Member Posts: 147
    Check your auto insurance policy detail. Some carriers provide a separate glass coverage for a nominal charge and also will replace with OEM glass within the first 12 months.

     

    The replacement glass and sometimes the installer/provider (e.g. Safelite) is typically up to the insurance company. If they do not cover for OEM glass and you insist, they may only cover up to "reasonable and customary" cost and you will need to pay the overage.
  • dhanleydhanley Member Posts: 1,531
    I had my windshield replaced in an aftermarket shop, and to be honest, i am a bit sorry. There is definitely more wind noise than existed previously.

     

    Also, a aftermarket windshield repair on a previous car(saab) left the top trim popping off on the highway.

     

    If insurance will pay in either case, it'd be a no-brainer for me.
  • kominskykominsky Member Posts: 850
    mchen - Please do not take offense to this, it's not my intention to offend...

     

    Are you sure you aren't pushing the throttle with your foot as you are braking. When Audi had their unintended acceleration problem back in the 80's, my understanding is that the problem turned out to be just that. With the brake and throttle so close together (great for heel-toe down shifts), I find that I sometimes hit the gas and brake pedals together when it's not my intention.

     

    btw, I don't have an auto tranny so I'm not even sure if the pedal placement would allow this.
  • andythefireandythefire Member Posts: 4
    I 've just bought a 2001 330i auto, with 51k miles in it. I wonder what type of problems/issues for this type of car at this mileage that I need to worry about and what should I go about a routine maintenance.

     

    Thanks
  • bmwtombmwtom Member Posts: 5
    Would like to add chrome drip moulding around side windows on an '04 325i sedan. This is the moulding that comes standard on the 330. Anyone tried this? Dealer here in NC quoted ~ $400 for parts only. Not sure if this is worth the $ and trouble, but like the trim. Any thoughts?
  • bmw330cic1bmw330cic1 Member Posts: 1
    I just paid a little less than $100 for a battery. My 2001 330 has approx 23,000 miles and like they say, it had to be done.

    Am also looking for new tires. My Continental haven't held up very well.

    Am looking at Pirellis, Yokohama and Michelin.
  • hgshgs Member Posts: 1
    I think 3 series battery is in the trunk and at least on my 328iC is an unusual shape that fits the battery compartment exactly. Bottom line is that a new battery is only available from the dealer and is going to be expensive.

     

    As far as tires go there is no good reason to get them from a dealer unless you don't care about price and selection . I recommend B.F. Goodrich Traction T/A's which are available through Sam's club for abut $75 mounted and balanced and are raved about on other BMW forums. Or you can get Discount Tire or one of the other large chains to pricematch Sam's Club by looking up the price on the samsclub.com.
  • moralecorruptmoralecorrupt Member Posts: 8
    I am a driver for UPS and I deliver alot of performance tires, so I look to see where they come from. The only one I can remember this minute is The Tire Rack, even with tax and shipping you save alot.
  • moralecorruptmoralecorrupt Member Posts: 8
    buy the battery from BMW if you must take it home and get a friend to install it. Labor is around $100.00/hr do it yourself you can save $50. I would measure the battery and buy one that fit. 7 yr battery that lasts 5 yrs is $80. they prorate the batteries, they never last the full lifetime.
  • moralecorruptmoralecorrupt Member Posts: 8
    Thnx for the info, I forgot all about the sensors
  • dhanleydhanley Member Posts: 1,531
    The battery in my 328i is 7 years old, and is fine.

     

    Of course, now that i've said that, i'm sure it'll die tomorrow.

     

    Now, the question.

     

    I lose about 1 qt of coolant a year. BMW dealer said they saw no leaks at the end of my CPO warranty, a buddy of mine saw a little seepage at a hose and tightened it, but it's low again as of a few days ago.

     

    A buddy said he smelled coolant in the exhaust at one point, but we've been unable to duplicate. Seeing no coolant in the oil.

     

    I'm speculating a little coolant might seep into the cylinders in cold weather due to the iron block aluminum head contracting at different rates.

     

    Experiences? Comments?

     

    Aside from this only problems has been a little dash electronics replaced under warranty. Car has 101,000 miles. Mechanic says ball joints/shocks getting tired.

     

    dave
  • mitramitra Member Posts: 7
    Got my 2005 325xiT 4DR Wagon from the dealer a couple of days back. It has a short stub-like antenna on the roof. The antenna is about 4 inches long.

     

    Does anybody know if the antenna will get damaged if I take the car through an automatic car wash without removing the antenna ?

     

    Also, if I intend to open it as a precaution, before sending it through the car wash, is it easy to do so ? Do I need any special tool, or will it just unscrew with pliers ?

      

    Any advice will be highly appreciated.
  • 3catmom3catmom Member Posts: 13
    Hi. I have a 2003 330i. Tonight, while I was still in the car with it turned off, I accidentally hit the unlock button on the remote and now it seems that the entire remote/alarm system isn't working. Neither set of keys unlocks or locks the doors or trunk, the red alarm light won't flash, and I have to manually lock the doors. I would love to save a trip to the dealer - any ideas?? Thanks.
  • jamesspotjamesspot Member Posts: 57
    It's the BMW assist antenna. Don't remove it. It will go through a car wash just fine. I do recommend the "touchless" kind of car wash vice the one with the hanging strips, but then I've only handwashed my car to this point.

    It was getting kind of dirty until New Year's weekend when it was unseasonably warm on the East Coast.
  • mitramitra Member Posts: 7
    Jamessport, thanks for your reply.

    Forgive my ignorance about antennas and car washes - do you think that the ones with hanging strips may damage the antenna ? Do "touchless" car-washes not have any such hanging strips at all ? Do they wash by using water jets only ? If that is the case, I don't think I have any in my area in South Jersey.

    Lastly, by some chance, if I am obligated to open the antenna, do you think it's easy to open ? Does it just unscrew ?
  • jamesspotjamesspot Member Posts: 57
    The risk in hanging strips is wear on the wax and paint swirls. The water jet kind, where the assembly moves around the car and only sprays, is better. Some folks are obsessive/compulsive about their car and would never drive through a car wash - I'm in between.

    I wouldn't mess with the BMW assist antenna. It's a GPS-type, designed for permanent mounting. You are much more likely to have leakage around window, door, and moonroof seals (as they wear over the next dozen years) than through that antenna where it mounts on the roof.
  • rhmassrhmass Member Posts: 263
    I just had my battery of my '94 (at 105,000 miles)replaced (for preventive measure) for the first time. BMW's OE battery seems to last for a long time.

    I have also experienced very small coolant loss for quite a while. Since I haven't been able to identify where the small leak comes from, I simply add a little coolant about every other month. I also had the struts and shocks (Bilstein) replaced about 5,000 miles ago. It seems this car ages similarly as yours! This "old" car handles almost as well as my '02 325xiT by comparison. Proper maintenance is everything!
  • dhanleydhanley Member Posts: 1,531
    Thanks for the info. It's good to know that those are more or less normal issues. It's probably just a tiny leak from a conection somewhere.

     

    Handling as well as a new car is the big reason i haven't yet felt the need to replace as of yet, though the 5-series with the sport package was an eye-opener.

     

    dave
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    My wife's 528iA also uses a tiny bit of coolant-@1 cup every couple of months. Like Dave, I'm almost certain that it's a miniscule leak at a hose connection.

    I still have the original batteries in the 3er(10/95 build) and 5er(5/96 build). I do check the electrolyte levels every six months-and top them up with distilled water if needed.
  • dhanleydhanley Member Posts: 1,531
    I've always speculated that the reason the battery in my car lasted so long is because it's away from the heat of the engine. These other datapoints make my even more suspicious of this fact.

     

    dave
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    I'd tend to agree, except for the fact that my 3er is a ti-which has the battery mounted under the hood on the left(exhaust) side of the engine compartment. However, it is enclosed in a plastic box which may provide some marginal shielding from radiant heat. OTOH, my 1/99 build date Jeep Wrangler's battery died in February 2004. That battery is underhood mounted with an insulating blanket that surrounds it.
  • mitramitra Member Posts: 7
    Hi,

    I have a brand new (well, 2 week old) 2005 325xiT Wagon. As per the interactive CD-based Owners' Manual, there is a small green indicator lamp on the top right of the head lamp control knob. This is supposed to light up whenever the head lamp control is in auto mode and the low-beam turns on, automatically, as a result of low ambient light.

     

    When the outside light becomes low, the low beam switches on automatically, as expected. But the green indicator lamp does not turn on.

     

    I would request other 325 owners to check this out and let me know if this works in their vehicle. Interestingly, the printed owners' manual does not mention this.

     

    Any response, comments will be highly appreciated.
  • paulepaule Member Posts: 382
    I can check on my car in a little bit but I thought the green light was to indicate the fog lights had been turned on.

     

    Edit: You're correct after looking at my CD. The green light should turn on. The green light I was referring to was the fog light indicator on the dash.

    Having said all of that, the little green light for the automatic headlights does not turn on on my car either. I did not drive for any period of time to check this however. I just tried it in my garage and the green light did not come on even thought the headlights were on.

    If it changes at some point, I'll repost.
  • mitramitra Member Posts: 7
    Paule and everybody else who might find it interesting to check:

     

    1. The grren light is not the fog light. The fog lamp indicator light comes up in the dash.

    2. This green light is right on the panel where the headlamp control knob is. It's very small.

    3. In my opinion, this is an important indicator lamp. Without it working as indicated, on a cloudy day, it may be difficult to figure out from inside the car if the auto-headlamp-control actually switched on the low beam or not.

    4. I have tried it out in my garage and outside and never found this to light up, even when the auto headlamp control is switching on the low beam.

     

    I shall earnestly request all owners to try this out. If this is a general problem, we should approach BMW.
  • paulepaule Member Posts: 382
    Mitra,

    I apologize for my edit apparently not being clear enough. I do realize that there are two green "lights" involved. There is the green fog light indicator in the dash that I was originally confusing with the green light just to the right of the headlamp switch.

     

    If you are really concerned about whether your lights are on or not, it is pretty simple to move the switch such that you know the headlights are on. Of course, that takes away from the nifty little automatic on feature.

     

    One other thought is that it may come on only after driving for awhile without the lights and then comes on once it gets dark enough for the headlights to come on. I don't know this for a fact and since it is my wife's car it may be difficult for me to determine this any time soon.

     

    You can always call your selling dealer to ask them about this feature.
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    ...before automatic headlamps? Did they actually have to turn them on manually?<shudder>
  • paulepaule Member Posts: 382
    Yep, and you actually had to grasp this uncomfortable knob thingy and pull it towards you!

     

    It was dreadful!
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