BMW 3-Series Maintenance and Repair

MarkinAtlanta

Hello Sir. I remember when you joined the our little community, around 2 years ago. Don't be such a stranger. Glad to hear the car has served you so well. Intuitively, you would expect a correlation between low profile tires and dented rims, but in the 3 years I've been following this BMW stuff, never heard or seen anyone reference dented rims due to a pothole. I'm sure it happens, NYC has some good ones. Correct me if I'm wrong, but the E46 premium pkg has 55 Series tires, Sport package is 50 Series. Shouldn't be enough to make a sizable difference. You touched on some of the slight body roll/grip issues with the sport suspension. Another sport package feature are the sport seats, better for spirited driving.

Anyway, good to hear from you again. If I remember right, your an ex-jarhead. Thanks for serving our country. Mark

shipo

Hey Mark,

Good to hear from you after so long, been a tad busy driving. :-)

Ah yes, the Sport package had/has substantially greater bolstering for said spirited driving when compared to the standard 328i (the standard seats on the then 323i were even less supportive). The good news (for me) is that they hold me well enough that I do not find myself wandering around the cockpit whilst playing in the mountain switch-backs just north of here. As an added benefit, the seats in either version are far more comfortable and supportive than the benches in the back of the old CH-46 and CH-53 helos I used to bump around in.

Speaking of which, yes your memory is correct, I did play grunt during the mid to late 1970's, sure seems like a long time ago.

And finally; You are very welcome. Semper Fi.

Best Regards,
Shipo

gvyt

Hi all,

I'll add another positive report. After 2 years of relatively light use (~18k miles) I've had two problems. Both covered under warranty and only requiring an extra 1 hour of my time:

1. Front passenger control arm play didn't meet safety inspection.
2. AM antenna amplifier worked irradically.

I'm note convinced that number 1 wasn't dealer warranty abuse, but then again I live in SW Pennsylvania, home of the US's worst roads.

The antenna amplifier failure was very minor, I'm only listened to AM once in two years to get the end of a hockey game.

Over all this is the first car that has been nearly flawless.

Improvement ideas:
1. Move window controls to the doors (like 5-series)
2. Provide a versatile trunk net and grocery bag anchors.

Later...

jwk4

I'm currently looking into buying the new 325i.
After reviewing several messages, I have a few questions and hopefully somebody is able to help me:

-) Does anybody have complaints about their Harmon Kardon Sound system??? Is it better to put in an after market stereo system?? (is it possible?? I heard the climate control is integrated with the stereo????)

-) What about the manual transmission, several messages address some kind of noise at the rear?? Any updates???

-) is the 2001 model a new version (i.e new design). or is it an improved 2000 model and BMW fixed all the little bugs??????

Best regards,

jwk4

dnr2

air idle valves are notorious for gumming up. it's a rotary motor with plastic vanes. bypaases air pre/post butterfly to maintain idle (with the help of the computer. sometimes one can clean them up with a can of air intake cleaner.
can be pricey to replace so try a good cleaning first.
also servicing (cleaning) the throttle butterfly with a toohbrush & intake cleaner can help considerably.

tcn2k

Stupid question, but if your bmw is less then 3/36k miles; and say it needs two brakes replacement at say 18k and 35k, are these brake work covered by the maintence free warranty?

getz1

Does anyone know if i can add the 17" wheels from a 00 328 directly to my 99 323. I'm not certain but it seems that the bolt pattern is very similar.
-Getz

charlestonguy

Ok guys, need a little advice. I am looking at buying a used car in about the 6-7 K range. My main choice now had been a 95 fordthunder bird. Leather, sunroof, V8, 70K miles and right at my range. I am still going to look for a while, but I am thinking I may go with that. I want a camry or accord, but now that I am looking, I can't find any more good deals on them lol. Well, this morning, a salesman at a dealership I went to earlier who was "keeping an eye out for me" just got hold of a 92 325is, and it is exactly what I asked him for - An import, 2 door, 5 speed, with a sunroof. It has 111K on it. He didn't tell me how much it was.... he just told me he found a car that would "work for me" hmmm, I am going to drive it this afternoon and we shall see. My questions are what kind of a price do you think would be fair for it? And what areas have yall had the most trouble with? I can get cheaper service since I work at a place that services BMW's, but I still have to pay if it breaks lol. So do you guys think I should go for it if I can afford it, get the thunderbird, or just wait around till a good deal comes up on a camry or accord or something like that? Thanks!!

startupfreak

Whatever happened to the BMW Convertible Forum? It kind of disappeared. Can you tell where it went or what the new name of that forum is.

Thanks.

paulr_4

Good question above - I'm looking at a 1993 325is with 125K miles on it. I'd like to know how long an average BMW should last before it starts to become a burden to maintain.

Mr_Shiftright

I re-started the 3-Series Convertible discussion...some software bug buried it somewhere and the techies are looking for it. Bummer, just happens now and then on THIS board, not the others...weird. Anyway, please feel free to join the re-started discussion and sorry for the mix-up.

Mr. Shiftright
Host

silverprincess

Does anyone know the approximate price difference between a 2001 325/330 sedan automatic vs. manual transmission? www.bmwusa.com doesn't seem to provide any information on this.

What is the difference between metallic and non-metallic paint? Is it worth it to get metallic?

Anyone have comments on the navigation system as compared to other cars with this option? The dealer told me something about how it's still analog and not digital. Is it easy to use? How about the user interface? Is it worth the $1800?

Thanks all!

herf

It looks like the additional cost for an automatic (actually a 'steptronic' - that you can shift if you feel like it) is $1275 MSRP. You can find the cost on edmunds or at BMWUSA (pick the model and then go through the 'build your own' - you can pick the colors, options and it shows you what it looks like and gives you the MSRP)

davis28

I have a 328i that has and had numerous problems. Despite being in love with this vehicle and its incredible fit and finish it has been a nightmare to repair. It has been in the shop for approx. 90 days out of the 18 mos I've owned it. Everything from camshaft exhaust sensors to a thermostat (3x replaced) as well as vapor barriers in the front door. I have problems with the sunroof on occasion as well. I saw a posting on the NHTSA about sidewall bubbling of the tires....yes, I had that too @ 13k miles I replaced three tires. At this time I am looking at other vehicles. The dealer is wanting to work with me but unless they can get me into a 330 my Bavaria Moter Werke days are numbered. Don't get me wrong, this car is incredible....until it goes south and once it does...watch out. I'm currently looking at a Saleen-at least if its in the shop - I can get it out (which I can't here in Atl. for the bimmer). Any feedback, feel free to email or post. - jon davis....

fjm1

I've got a Y2K 323 w/sport package that I love to drive hard. But the day to day is killing the joy of a canyon road.

I have, in the last 18 months, had this thing in the shop 3 times for rear differential problem, 3 times for water leaks into interior, 5 or 6 times for rattling windows, 5 or 6 times for airbag light, and 2 times for squeeking seats. I know all the folks at the dealership service center. This car has been out of service for about 40 days in the past 18 months.

Sorry BMW, you have lost a die hard fan. I will sadly sell this summer.

Looking forward to shopping the IS300, hope they come out with a manual soon!

yibin

I picked up my new 325i last December. From the begining, I noticed that the car idles rough some times, usually in the morning. I took my car in for service in Feb. and when the car was checked in the afternoon, everything was fine. I have been puzzled by this and I determined to figure out how to make the problem repeat so I can show it to the service manager.

Finally earlier this month, I found out the if I turn off the heated seats, the engine speed fluctuation will be gone. That's why I always have this problem in the morning (I always use the heated seats in the morning) and don't have this problem in the afternoon when it's warm outside so I don't need the heated seats.

I took my car in again this morning and show the problem to a service manager. He admitted at that point that there is a problem. However, he just called me back and told me that a technician took a look at the car and determined that this is normal. He also said that all 2001 325i's have this problem. I am very anooyed by this minor problem and I don't believe this is normal.

What should I do?

Thanks for your help.

getz1

I just put on the new sport package wheels on my 99 323, and now I notice a slight pull to the left most notable at highway speeds, as well as having a lot more vibration coming through the steering wheel. Would this be corrected by having the tires balanced? I assume that the steering wheel vibration is a result of the wider tires, and I am hoping that the pull to the left is caused by poor balancing. I can't see switching wheels throwing off front end alignment. If anyone can add any input I would be most greatful, as before switching wheels the car tracked straight as an arrow.
Thanks,
Getz

ggenge

Twice now, I have had the engine warning light come on after fueling the car. And the only way to get it to go off was to take it in to the dealer and have them hook it up to the scope and reset it. They told me that it would reset itself, but they could not say how long it would take, or now many times I had to start the car, and even in a week, it never reset it self for me. They told me the engine warning light computer indicated that each time it had something to do with a tank pressure sensor detecting a fume leak or something like that. It may be something as simple as removing the gas cap with the engine running, or maybe just removing the cap with the key in the ignition, we're not sure.

What causes this error?
How do we get it fixed?

The dealer just resets it and shrugs their shoulders not having any idea what to do to fix the problem. And they tell me it is a very common problem with those cars, I even heard the next call from the service manager said to someone on the phone "You fueled the car and the light came on again, Huh. . . ??"

Now I turn to the owners for the answer. Regards, Greg

alcan

Hydrocarbons, fuel fumes, are a significant contributor to photochemical smog. When the engine's off, hydrocarbons are stored in the Evaporative Emission Control cannister (charcoal cannister). After the engine's started a vacuum is applied to the cannister to purge the fuel vapors and burn them. The system is tested at startup and if it won't hold vacuum it sets a diagnostic trouble code and turns on the MIL. Assuming the system is not compromised, cracked vacuum line, defective gas cap, etc, the solution is simple. Do not remove the gas cap with the engine running. Do ensure the cap's tightly seated after refuelling. This applies to all 1996 and newer OBD-II compliant vehicles, not just your model.

lokki

I've had it a couple of times on my E-36 and on my Acura. In both cases, I got impatient and (since I was going to the dealer anyhow) had the dealer reset it.

The gas cap was the culprit in my cars. I have heard other people say that the lights do go away eventually but it can take 2 weeks sometimes.

Don't blame BMW though, blame the U.S. Govt. I think that the system needs to be more sophisticated so it can tell a gas cap problem from a 'real' problem.

Firebird_EOU

It happened to me, on the 3rd refuel the light went away. Make sure the fuel cap clicks when it's closed.

alcan

Most people don't appreciate that a loose gas cap is a real problem. It releases hydrocarbons into the atmosphere which in turn contribute to the creation of very real photochemical smog. The government should be applauded for this step in cleaning up the air, not blamed. The onus is now on the motoring public to learn how to properly reinstall a gas cap after refuelling.

ggenge

I found today on the BOW convertible several references to a E46 recall on the o2 (OXYGEN)sensor but I could not find recalls on BOW's site anywhere. We have always made sure the gas cap "clicked" and was tight, so unless it's defective entirely, that's not it. And I sure DON' appreciate that gas fumes release hydrocarbons like ALAN says, I'd have to see some proof before I believed that. The car is only 2 months old so I doubt it's anything worn. I will just ensure I take the key out of the ignition every time I refuel, which if it works would be an easy fix. (The gas cap actually does say "ensure ignition is OFF or may cause check engine light to come on). I think BOW should not have programmed the Engine light to come on permanently, perhaps for 5 in, or whenever you restart the car.

How would I find out about this apparent recall on all E46 o2 sensors? My dealer has proved to be useless in this regard. I think that if it comes on again, as much as I hate to, I'll just get my wife to ignore it until we take the car in for the next service, or it magically shuts off.

Thanks for all of your help, Greg

alcan

First, the onboard diagnostics don't know that the gas cap's loose. All they know is that the EVAP system has been compromised and won't hold vacuum. Could be a defective cannister purge solenoid, cracked vacuum line, etc, etc.

Second, although the spell checker has butchered your post, what I'm reading is that you don't think gasoline will release hydrocarbons. What exactly do you think gasoline IS?

Third, the EVAP system is only one of many monitored by OBD-II self diagnostics, any of which can trigger a MIL. For a complete list go to the link below and scroll down. These are all OBD-II diagnostic codes. Note that there are 15 separate codes, P0441-P0455, relating to the EVAP system alone. Federal govenments, the EPA, and vehicle manufacturers KNOW that gasoline releases hydrocarbons to the atmosphere, and that it's a significant contributor to photochemical smog:

http://www.batauto.com/Pcodes.html

ggenge

THanks for the excellent info, I guess I just didn't think evaporated gas was a big deal, but if BMW went to all of that trouble to reduce this emmission, then you must be right. and here's proof according to Centre for Atmospheric Chemistry at York University (in Canada) that you are right:

"Photochemical Smog/Tropospheric Ozone -
When fossil fuels (e.g., gasoline) are burned, a variety of pollutants are emitted into the earth's troposphere, i.e., the region of the atmosphere in which we live - from ground level up to about 15 km. Two of the pollutants that are emitted are hydrocarbons (e.g., unburned fuel) and nitric oxide (NO). When these pollutants build up to sufficiently high levels, a chain reaction occurs from their interaction with sunlight in which the NO is converted to nitrogen dioxide (NO2). NO2 is a brown gas and at sufficiently high levels can contribute to urban haze. However, a more serious problem is that NO2 can absorb sunlight and break apart to produce oxygen atoms that combine with the O2 in the air to produce ozone (O3). Ozone is a powerful oxidizing agent, and a toxic gas. In North America elevated levels of tropospheric ozone cause several billion dollars per year damage to crops (45 million/per year in Ontario), structures, forests, and human health. It is believed that the natural level of ozone in the clean troposphere is 10 to 15 parts-per-billion (ppb). Because of increasing concentrations of hydrocarbons and NO in the atmosphere, scientists have found that ozone levels in "clean air" are now approximately 30 ppb. A principal activity of atmospheric chemists is to study and determine how we might reverse this trend."

I stand corrected.

As for the spell checker, I'll rely on my own from now on.

Regards, Greg

danhug

I have a 325ci 2001.3000 miles.
Has anybody had any problems with the driver's door not closing properly? I had to take the car to the dealer a few weeks ago to have them adjust it as it was not closing right and ended up damaging the black rubber seal (they replace it).
I also have the thermostat problem but Not news there.. Regarding the AK system, can anybody explain a little better the "amp" scenario? I am happy with the sound but if it can be improved, I would love to know.

gfdv

Even when I have the fan and A/C turned off, every time I start the engine, it seems the fan is at the lowest setting. Can anyone tell me how to turn the fan off and keep it off. I do not have the setting on "auto".

About the door not closing right. I had the same problem. Service had to replace both seals on the doors.

But yeah, the fan thing is very annoying. Any advice?

bentley6

Annoying yes...anything you can do about it no...other than upgrade to a 5 series according to my dealer

c340pilot

My 1999 323i had brake problems at 6000, and 9000 miles. Brake pulsations, but only on high speed (60mph) firm decelerations. Dealer replaced rotors & pads under warrenty each time. Dealer maint mgr implied there may have been poor quality on some rotors for E46. He said BMW put new parts out for this fix with a new part number.

No other problems on car, thru 12000miles.

I don't think this was a driver style problem since my 1995 325i went 50K miles without any brake work.

I'm looking at the 2001 325i now. Does anyone know the rotor diameter for the brakes on the 2001 325i?

kashchei

I found a 1995 318ti hatch back at a local used car dealership (not a BMW dealer). It has 97K miles and they're asking $9,995 for it. I gave it the physical inspection and everything seemed fine. It even checked out at carfax.com. I'm a first time buyer and I don't know what else I should really look out for. Does this seem like it would be good buy???

kashchei@prodigy. net

tgif888

What is the casr equipped? Maunal or automatic. My personal opinion, stay away from this car. The 318 ti is a 4 cyclinder. BMW never puts its heart in this car. Even the 2000 323i have a lots of problems in my first year of ownership. Try to find other car, like a Honda, Toyota, or Acura maybe.

ctdavid

A very annoying intermittent problem started in my otherwise flawless 1997 328i - the ac/heater instrument cluster sometimes works/sometimes doesn't. I've changed all the fuses out, but no avail - I am bringing it to the dealer but thought some knowledgeable soul might have other suggestions in the meantime?

ctdavid@bellatlantic.net

bentley6

My dealer is not quite so obliging....see my previous message Jan/01....do you have the new part numbers...if so I will chase BMW Canada

MarkinAtlanta

I'm suspicious, you say you own a problem 2000 323i. You also own a new Acura CL, Type S and you have offers in on a new I30t? Doesn't make sense, just doesn't.

abellofiore

At around 2900 miles I've begun to encounter the following problem with my 330xi: at speeds < 10 mph I hear a creaking (spring-like) sound from the rear-end (No, I can't duplicate it by pushing up and down on the rear bumper). I took the car into the dealer last week and they replaced both rear shock mounts and shocks, removed and reinstalled all trunk panels, re-torqued all suspension nuts/bolts and lubricated bushings. The service mgr said that mine wasn't the first he'd seen with this problem. All seemed fine for the next three days, but now the noise is back again! Has anyone else encountered this same problem and had it fixed properly?

tgif888

I trade the BMW 323i for the TL Type S. Not the CL. The 323 i just keep on giving me problem which I won't take it any more. So, now I had a 2002 Acurta TL Type S and want to buy a Infiniti I30t. It is because I need another car and the S. Cal. dealer are selling the car below invoice. If you like to know how much below invoice, it is $600. Sorry, for all the confusion.

MarkinAtlanta

Good luck, my apologies.

sterlinghawkns

Last September I took delivery of my 2001 330cic and since have put 13,000 miles on it. About every 4,000 miles the yellow oil warning lamp indicates that the oil is approaching its minimum level. Translation -- it's loosing 3/4 of a quart of synthetic oil every 4,000 miles. Since I've never driven with synthetic oil before I have no idea if this is normal. The dealer told me the car was 'in-spec' until it was loosing a quart every 1000 miles. BTW -- no leak on the garage floor & the service indicator has just indicated its time for its first oil change.

Is this normal?

shipo

My 1999 328i has about 25,000 miles on the clock, and todate, I have not seen the "Yellow oil warning lamp". I have decided to go with BMW's standard 15K service interval, so by the first oil change, I had driven about 14,500 without using enough to cause the lamp to light. Like you, I do not know if my car is normal or if I am just lucky.

In the old days (1960's and early 1970's), the more time an engine spent at high RPM's, the more oil you were likely to use, I do not know if this is true with a modern BMW or not. My current driving is a combination of sitting in NYC metro area traffic and long road trips, as a result, I do not get the chance to rev the engine up too often.

I hope this helps.

Best Regards,
Shipo

Mr_Shiftright

A quart every 4,000 miles? No problem, that's quite normal. I'd personally like an engine to burn a little......a quart every 1,000 is really pushing the definition of "normal", but until it drops that low, you won't convince BMW there's a problem. That's within their spec, so you have to live with it. One quart every 4,000 is certainly no cause for the slightest concern.

Yes, very high rpm would still increase oil consumption on a modern engine. So might short stop and go trips every day (oil dilution and evaporation).

sterlinghawkns

Thanks gents!

jduke4

Has anyone ever had any problems with a 1995 325i BMW 4dr Sedan? I am about to purchase one and am very curious if I should watch out for anything. Please respond ASAP I may be buying it tonight.

mikesm6

I simply cannot believe anyone would adhere to the (BMW) manufacturer's maintenance schedule - "free" it is certainly NOT, and you will pay for that down the road when you "attempt" to sell.
You should change the motor oil/filter @ 1000-1200 mi, use good qual synthetic (weights depends on your location - I use Castrol Syntec 5-50 in my '90 325is and Valvoline Syn 20-50 in my '88 M6 in Dallas), and you can change that every 6000 or more mis to spare the environment. 14K before the first oil change??? Wrong. Mike

shipo

Consider the following points:

Modern LEV and ULEV engines running with modern fuel produce a mere fraction of the combustion gunk (a very technical term ;-) that is) generated by an engine from just 5 years ago, the result, extended oil change intervals.

Synthetic oil has a far superior ability to hold said gunk in suspension when compared to conventional oil, the result, extended oil change intervals.

BMW has seen fit to almost double the amount of oil in the reservoir when compared to other engines of similar displacement, more oil means more ability to suspend particulate matter and protect the engine, the result, extended oil change intervals.

All of which makes frequent oil changes a waste of money and harmful to the environment.

In my opinion.

Best Regards,
Shipo

mikesm6

I certainly agree with your final statement! However, I will go on record as stating that I would never buy a BMW that had not had its oil and filter changed at the end of the first 1000-1200 mi! Mike

drobso01

I have a 323ci 2000 now with 69000 miles purchased new.
Has anybody had any problems with the driver's door/passenger door moldings? I had to take the car to the dealer a today to have them adjust it as it was making a noise at 70 mph as it was not sealing correctly on the right side of the window drivers side(letting the air in). I could tell this as moisture after rain would show that the molding was only partially pressing against the glass. The black rubber seal is now damaged(two inch slit near the bottom of door sill) and they say I damaged it by having let my seat belt get caught in the door. True I did let the seat belt get caught in the door once and it damaged the inside door gouging out about 1/4 by 1/8 inch of leather. Both door seal moldings were replaced last year under warranty as well as door locks, which were a recall.
I also have the thermostat problem. The dealer today told me I needed a new map cooling thermostat sensor. This is all very well and good but I had it replaced Feb 2000 under warranty 5 months after I bought the vehicle. I am sure more 323 owners will suffer from this defect in the future.
I am happy with the sound system (the standard cassette/radio unit) but the tapes get hot.
If you have experienced any of the above problems please let me know.
David.

chloe6

Hi!

I need a new car and have decided to order a 2001 325i sedan. I have a few questions for all of your experts out there!

First of all, all of the reviews I've read about the 325i have been very positive, but I'm wondering what actual owners think of them. I'm looking for a very reliable car, so if anyone is having problems with a 325i, please let me know!

Also, has anyone seen the red leather interior? It looks great on the bmwusa.com website, and I'm thinking of special-ordering a car just so I can get the red interior. If anyone has seen it in an actual car, please let me know what you thought of it. I'd hate to special order the car, wait for weeks and weeks, and then find out the red leather is hideous.

Also, if you've had any experiences -- good or bad -- with New Jersey BMW dealerships, please let me know. There are several dealers in my area, and if any of them are known weasels, I'd like to avoid them. (From what I've learned so far, the price of the car will be quite similar no matter who I buy it from.)

Thanks for any advice you can provide. I'd like to purchase a car this weekend, and if I hear bad things about the BMW, I'll have to start my search all over again (any ideas???)

Have a great week!

Regards,
Chloe

tisrandee

Jeffxjett posted his link to his car under Meet the Members. (post #49) This should take you to his pics. :-)
Jeff's BMW 330Cic with red seats

This should take you to Meet The Members Board :-)

ccotenj

well..

since bmw is gonna cpo the vast majority of off-lease cars, and the "generic" cpo warrantee is 6 years/100K, i really don't think they'd recommend doing something (or not doing something, as in not changing the oil), that would cause them to replace a lot of engines prematurely...

i could be wrong, but it's something to think about...

-Chris

tisrandee

I have always changed the oil on all my cars religiously at 3000 miles. I've decided (at least for now) to follow BMW's recommendation for my 325cic and change my oil according to their plan. I might think differently if they had "suggested" an oil change at 1,000 and then at 7,000, but not saying it was something they seriously recommended doing. It's hard to believe they would not recommend more frequent oil changes if it truly added to the performance and life of their cars.