BMW 3-Series Maintenance and Repair

erickpl

I hear ya on that one div! My windshield brackets... (sheesh)

I'll show my wife the writeup and let her decide if I am going to attempt the installation of the regulators.

I'm just concerned about having the door panel fit properly, rattling, and water leaks when I put everything back together.

-Paul

jim1395

i'm noticing the same on my 325i, except its coming from the drivers door. i think i remember reading somewhere that silicon lubricant will help. if i recall correctly, spray some on a towel or sponge then wipe along the seal. i hope my spelling and grammar are ok. tough crowd lately

div2

BMW used to sell a product called Gummi Pflege(Rubber Care) which was specifically designed to lubricate door and window seals. It is exactly what you want to use. However, I've heard that BMW NA no longer stocks the product. Not to worry, Autosol also makes Gummi Pflege, and Bavarian Autosport sells it.

erickpl

will that gummi stuff work on the window seals to keep them from sticking and causing the window regulators to break?

-Paul

devil78

New owner of a 1993 318is. The radiator is overheating and is leaking coolant. There is an opening at the top of the radiator below the cap that looks as though a hose should be attached, but there is no hose. Can't really tell if that is where the coolant is leaking from. Can anyone advise?

div2

Well, it would be worth a try; I wouldn't apply it to any of the flocked area, though.

div2

I'd suggest finding a good independent BMW shop and have them pressure test the cooling system.

devil78

Okay. There is an import repair shop in town and I will let them check it out. I was curious about that opening, however, as it didn't seem right. Is this the overflow outlet?

div2

If you are talking about an opening on top of the radiator-and it's not a hose nipple-then it must be the hole for the bleeder screw. And it sounds like that screw is either broken off or missing. You might also have the shop check the "profile gasket" while they're at it. And if they don't know what a profile gasket is, find another shop. Seriously.

devil78

Thanks for the info. I think I may have confused the issue as the opening is not on top of the radiator, rather, it is at the top and on the side facing the engine. It looks to be about 2 inches in diameter. My bleeder screw is intact as I removed it to inspect it.

jwylie

Yes! It really happened to me at 65mph on I-70 near Denver. It's like a shotgun going off in your face. By some luck I didn't wreck. The dealership had it towed in at no cost and gave me a loaner at no cost which I still have. They looked it over
inside out and under. They found no cause. They contacted BMW North America
who flew engineers out from Germany to check it out. BMW NA came back and said they found a small impact point near a sensor that could have caused the deployment. They immediately offered to fix the problem at no cost to me if I would sign a release stating I would not share info leading up to or after the fix. I thought this was shaky at best, and not very professional. Turns out there was a recall on the airbag problem that they repaired 2 months after we purchased the car. I guess it didn't take. Would you buy this car from me? Is there any resale value at all? Anybody care to share their thoughts? Jason

amt7565

Yo-
I spoke to my aparmtment people and seems like they have taken care of the mischevious sprinkler. My car is looking new again....

I also carry one of those instant wax sprays by Maguiars in my trunk. It works pretty well to clean unexpected dirt and other spots.

AMT-

potemkin

If it's two inches in diameter, it's definitely a radiator hose. Check again. You're supposed to have two hoses running between the engine block and the radiator.

Good luck.

devil78

I wasn't sure how many hoses there were supposed to be. It must have just fallen off while being driven. Thanks for the info.

erickpl

Do you know of any online places that sell it? Are the places you mentioned online?

-Paul

div2

Try www.bavauto.com - I know they have it.

erickpl

The shipping was almost as much as the stuff itself! sure would be nice if it was sold locally!

Thanks for the pointer, div!

-Paul

div2

Did you check with your local BMW dealer? They might still have a tube or two in inventory.

erickpl

They didn't have anything... oh well. Maybe I could have checked the MB dealership.

-Paul

devil78

Here's my problem. The 2 inch nipple from the radiator that the hose connects to has broken off at the radiator. It seems to be made of some type of palstic. I tried to glue the end of the nipple back flush with the radiator with JB Weld, but this did not work. Does anyone know if this peice can be replaced or will I have to replace the whole radiator to remedy the problem? I can feel the remaining portion of the nipple inside the radiator and it seems to be about 4 inches long.

Any help on this would be most appreciated.

Tim

div2

JB Weld may work as a temporary fix but the ultimate and best solution is to simply replace the radiator. They really aren't that expensive. Try the BMW Store at 1-800-543-1649. While you're at it, replace the coolant with BMW coolant ONLY, and change it out every 2-3 years. Some techs think that aftermarket antifreezes may contribute to the deterioration of the OEM radiators, so why risk it?

devil78

Thanks for the info. I called the BMW store and I can get a new OEM radiator for $353. Cincinnati is only a 1.5 hr drive from here so it works out great. I really appreciate this forum for the great help. I'm a new BMW owner so I'm sure I will read the posts daily for other info.

div2

I'd also suggest joining the BMW Car Club. I'm the original owner of a 1995 318ti Club Sport if you have any more questions just ask away-I'm glad to help. FWIW, I live @ 2 hours away from Cinci-in north central KY.

devil78

The BMW Club sounds like a great idea. I recently purchased a 1993 318is. It's kind of a joint ownership thing for myslef and my 17 yr old son. The car seems to be in pretty good shape, however, the radiator problem has us parked for now. It has 104,000 miles and the body is in very good shape.

What is the differnce between an "is" and the "ti" that you own?

By the way, I live in Ashland.

div2

The ti is the hatchback that was sold in the US from 1995-1989. It is @9" shorter than the coupe or sedan, and it uses the rear suspension from the 1984-1991 Threes.
You'll hear lots of(mostly bogus) horror stories about BMW repair costs, but the truth is that Threes of your vintage are quite reliable and repair costs are very reasonable.Over almost ten years and 97000 miles my 1995 has cost me under $40/month in maintenance and repair costs-and that includes three sets of Z-rated tires. If you want to perform repairs yourself I'd strongly suggest picking up the Bentley repair manual. A bit pricey-but worth it, in my opinion.

devil78

Yeah, I would like to do as much of the general repair work as possible. Is the Bentley guide the most "user friendly"? I need plenty of pictures and diagrams.

div2

"Is the Bentley guide the most "user friendly"?"

Yes, it's the best for novice and expert alike.

potemkin

I bought the Chilton's for fixing up my '95 ti. I'm definitely a novice, and I can certainly recommend it. Haven't seen the Bentley guide, but if Div2 says it's the best, it probably is.

tze3034

Yup Yup,
I own a 92 325ic, and this car is a sick automobile. Owned it for about a year now, and it rips most cars a new one. Car was crafted with great, and simple engineering. I had the same problem with the check engine light on. This light that is on, is not a check engine light. It is basically a service check light, and the reason that the light is on in this car is because of a faulty third brake light harness. I had the same problem, but when I removed the third break light and installed a spoiler with the led this problem went away. This car brought M Power a whole new meaning, and still represents today. Its nice cruisin with the top down also.

beemer_newbie

Hi Friends,
I am strongly thinking about buying a 2006 BMW 325i during the next few months and wanted to ask you all a few questions and take a careful decision based on that.

- I live in Mountain View,CA. Is the BMW of Mountain View the best Dealer or should I try Stevens Creek/Pleasanton?

-Which is the best month to buy a BMW 325i?Does BMW have independence day sales events this year?

-I plan to buy a car with STEPTRONIC Transmission. I've read in forums that this is a problematic component in BMWs. Is It True?

-Is a Sports Package Necessary? What are its advantages/disadvantages ?

-Is there a catch to their 4yr/50K warranty thing?How much will I roughly have to pay up per year on maintenance?Everyone in my family is discouraging me from buying a BMW because of it being expensive to maintain,(they say) even during its warranty period.

-After owning it for four years,I plan to sell my car back to the dealership(maybe for a trade-in). Is this a good viable option?Will they accept a 4yr old car if its in a good condition?

Any other tips you have for me will be greatly appreciated.

Regards,
Beemer Newbie.

potemkin

I'll take a shot at answering a few of your questions.

Mountain View
Can't help you there. I'm on the East coast.

Sports Package
I wouldn't say that it is necessary, but I got it. Some people like the firmer ride and nice big wheels, others think it's too firm and prefer it without the SP. Be sure to test drive both.

Best month
Haven't bought many cars, so I'm not the best person to answer this one, but I'll throw in my $0.02: The best time to buy a car is sometime after you've done your home work. Figure out what car you want and what's the best price you can get it for. Don't worry about what color the leaves are.

STEPTRONIC
A few people have posted problems with the auto, but I haven't heard anything from reputable sources that indicate that there is a wide-spread problem with the Steptronic (other than the fact that it's a automatic - some people here believe that the manual is the better choice, but the decision is yours and yours alone).

Warranty catch
The only catch to the warranty is you have to buy (or lease) a BMW. Other than that the cost is zero, nothing, nada, zip. You get 4 years or 50,000 miles of free scheduled maintenance built into the price of the ultimate driving machine.

Also, the "expensive to maintain" claims are hard to justify in my personal experience. I have a '95 318ti that is still on the road and has incurred very little maintenance cost over the years.

After... four years
If you know you're only going to keep it 4 years, talk to others on this board about leasing. You might be better off. I'm not the person to ask. I suggest buying it with cash, but that's just me.

Any other tips
Make sure you inspect cars that have both Leather and Leatherette interiors and decide for yourself which to get. Most people prefer the leather, but the leatherette (German for "vinyl") isn't your father's vinyl and you may decide that the leather isn't worth the additional cost. Personally, I liked the 'ette enough that I wasn't able to justify getting the leather.

Also, don't take anything I said above as gospel.

amt7565

Yo-
Get the Sports package. The larger wheels enhances the looks of the car. It will also hug the road better when you want to take those tight corners.

You don't pay for anything until after 50K/4 years. Not even oil change. Oil is changed every 15K miles and is free. During the maintainence you even get a free loaner car.

When you are ready to sell it after 4 years, better sell it to a private party.

Get the Bimmer and then kick back and relax

AMT-

potemkin

Yes, get the SP. AMT will even pay for it.

kyfdx

That's it for four years... you have to pay to replace your own tires... Even the brakes are free...

odessit

I must concur potemkin’s response. The only thing I want to emphasize you attention is leather vs. leatherette (vinyl). Before I bought one I asked to show me two cars, side-by-side, one with leather and another with vinyl. I am pretty picky person when it comes to quality. Honestly I DID NOT feel any difference between the two. So I choose vinyl for my car. Don’t know how it will hold up with time compare to leather, but not by feel or look you can even distinguish between two. In my opinion it does not worth extra 2K.
mike

kominsky

Warranty catch
The only catch to the warranty is you have to buy (or lease) a BMW. Other than that the cost is zero, nothing, nada, zip. You get 4 years or 50,000 miles of free scheduled maintenance built into the price of the ultimate driving machine.

The only thing not covered by the free maintenance, to the best of my knowledge, is tires. Also, if oil changes every 15K miles makes you uncomfortable (it does for me!), any additional changes will be at your own expense. I do my own changes and they run about $35-40 for 7qts synthetic and filter.

rglrglrgl

I have same problem, 1997 328i, AC works when it wants to. I suspect software problem. Have you found a solution?

superdog

Hi

The suggested psi is 39 front, 46 back.. I find it to be a very bumpy ride with these #s... anyone else have any suggestions? Max psi is 50 on them.

Thanks

kyfdx

Your suggested psi is 39 and 46? From where? My '03 325i Sport has a recommended psi of 30/35.. 39/46 doesn't sound right..

shipo

Per the manual for your car:

Inflation pressure with up to four passengers:
32 Front & 38 Rear

Inflation pressure with either four passengers and luggage or five passengers:
39 Front & 46 Rear

Best Regards,
Shipo

kyfdx

No wonder... Unless you are running around with 800-1000 lbs..... just lower your pressure... you'll lose a filling..

beemer_newbie1

Thanks for your replies
I just customized a 2006 325i model

Exterior:Jet Black (comparing this with Black Sapphire Metallic..which is better and long lasting??I guess BSM)

Interior
Black Leatherette
Aluminum Trim

Packages
Sport Package $1,600

Options :
STEPTRONIC automatic transmission $1,275
Premium Sound System $1,200 (Is this any good? I am disappointed that there's no bose..its something called Logic 7)

Destination Charge $695

Price as configured $35,070 on the bmwusa.com site (how much should I aim to bargain for ?Cars Direct has this at $33,192.Is there any hidden cost involved with them? )

Appreciate your help!
-Beemer Newbie

superdog

my car didnt have a manual.. i requested them to reorder one from the factory..

I thought the bumpy ride was cuz the tires didnt have enough air in them ( 39f/46r ).. o_O thank god I didnt pump it up some more.. lol I usually dont carry anyone around.. just a single driver.. guess I'll play around with the psi in the upper 30s. Thanks sooo much!

amt7565

BSM has a nicer finish. From what I hear, they sustain their lustre longer.

The LOGIC stereo is the high end model from HarmanKardon. I have a Harmon on my bimmer, but it certainly does not match the clarity of the BOSE. Next time you go to dealer, take a CD with you and play it on the stock model and the Logic to see if it's worth the extra $1200.00.

The carsdirect quote you have is almost $2K off. That is a very good price!!

Hidden costs are what come when you sit down and work out the final price. These can be window etching fee, document charge(not more than $50), process fee- etc. etc. which should not be there. Do your homework and print out the online quotes when you go to the dealer. You should not pay anything other than the price you have listed above.

Good luck.
AMT-

jtodd

First time posting here...We are having trouble with a 1995 325. Normally it runs absolutely fine, but every other week or so (especially after running two or three short errands) the car will not start. It seems to be specifically after making two or three quick stops and always leaves us stranded somewhere for up to 30 minutes and then it will start. We have taken the car to our family mechanic multiple times and he cannot find anything wrong. We have also taken it to the BMW dealer in Springfield, Illinois and they too cannot find anything wrong. The areas checked and replaced range from the starter to the fuel pump to the battery to the spark plugs to the electronic computer system. I am pretty much "car dumb", so if any responses can be put in simple, dumb-guy language it would be preferred.

Thanks for your time -

Jason Todd

div2

To be honest, it sounds like your mechanic and dealer are doing what a friend of mine calls "flailing"-that is, they are throwing parts at the car in the desperate hope that one of the new parts might fix the problem. There is a specific procedure for diagnosing engine problems on these cars and it doesn't sound like either of your shops have followed it.
First off, does the engine always turn over when you turn the key? If it does, the starter was NOT the problem-and it should never have been replaced. Ditto for the battery. If it is cranking over and not starting then the engine is not getting fuel and/or spark. The first items I would test would be the DME relay, the fuel pump relay, and the idle speed control valve. They are all easy to inspect and any one of those components could cause the problems you describe. Another source of the problem could be the EWS anti-theft system. If your car was built in January 1995 or later-you can find your cars build date on the build plate in the driver's door jamb-it likely has the EWS II system which can cause starting problems when it malfunctions. Did the dealer run a diagnostic check on the EWS? I'm sorry I can't be of more help, but perhaps this information will give you a head start towards solving what must be a very exasperating problem.

beemer_newbie1

Thanks AMT and Potemkin for your prompt replies.
I got a bizarre suggestion from my buddy who asked me to hold my horses till the 2007 model is released next years coz he believes since 2006 is its first year of the new design,all the flaws/glitches will be fixed with the next year.
Is this a valid suggestion?
My instincts are getting the better of me and I wanna buy something by next month.
Pour me your thoughts!
Regards,
BN

potemkin

Personally, for the most part I don't subscribe to the "new model glitches" theory.

If you want to reduce your exposure to problems avoid the extras they add to cars (which they have been known to add to cars nearing the end of their life cycle, not just the redesign). The theory here is that if your car doesn't have a moonroof, you won't have any problems with the moonroof, for example. The downside is, of course, you have to live without a moonroof. On the other hand, if the moonroof is standard equipment and there's something wrong with the design, then the dealer's service department will have a lot of experience fixing them.

Remember, there's a 4 year / 50,000 mi warranty. Your only costs are headaches and time spent at the dealer.

dhanley

Intermittent instrument panel and AC is a known problem on the e36 ( i have a 97 328i as well ).

The control unit in the middle of the dash has a weld on the back that breaks. They like to just swap the part. I just slid in under the extended warranty on that. I think the part is $250 and labor is relatively minor.

dave

div2

For those willing to get their hands dirty, here's a DIY E36 Climate Control Panel Repair page.