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The catch does appear to be a cheap-and-nasty design - I have never had this kind of problem in any other cars I have owned or still own - ever. Including MG, Singer le Mans, Austin Healey, Lotus Elan, Mini, Jensen, Volvo, Landcruiser........
I noticed that the coolant is green in color... but have heard that BMW coolant is blue. Is this any cause for concern?
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
The next day same thing and it came with a bit of a humming noise, almost laborious sound.
Now, I still hear the noise, but no cold air comes out. Any thoughts as to what it may be? I sort of think the ac needs to be recharged or the motor is about to go?
I'm assuming that the interior blower fan is running normally, correct? It could be several things, but I suspect that the compressor may be shot. I'd take it to a good independent BMW tech, otherwise you will just be guessing at a fix.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
I called the guy by my house, he has been around 20 years, didnt really want to take it to the dealer.
thanks!
Try a wrecking yard, you might get lucky.
Has anyone experienced this problem before. I dont know much about the onboard computer but believe it quite costly to replace. Can this somehow be overridden in order to resolve this issue?
my email= mexboy157@yahoo.com
Regards,
OW
My wife has a bmw325 which is nearing the warranty of 50,000miles. We want to extend the BMW sponsored warranty and free maintenance up to 100,000. The dealer quoted $2,500 and $1,500 respectively. In addition, the these are warranties by company associated to BMW and not by the actual BMW company. They said that there is no available warranty by BMW. Is this a good deal or do I have to look for another dealer in a different city? There is only one BMW dealer in our metro area.Thanks.
I can tell you that I purchased a bumper-bumper warranty (4 yr additional/70K Total miles) on my wife's GMC 1 month before the 3 yr/36 ran out for $1,900. Last May, 18 months since, the A/C evaporator failed - $870 Cost (I paid $66 for Freon/coolant). So, almost half the cost of extended warranty with one part failure.
Regards,
OW
Also I noticed that the engine warms up very slowly. It's about 5 miles drive from my home to work, half local, half highway. And the oil temperature gauge doesn't reach the half point until I've arrived at work already. And it cools off slowly as well, the hood feels hot even a couple hours after use. I used to have a Honda Civic and it warms up just within a couple minutes after a cold start.
I wouldn't expect to get much over 20 mpg- assuming that the majority of your driving consists of your 5 mile work commute.
Also I noticed that the engine warms up very slowly. It's about 5 miles drive from my home to work, half local, half highway. And the oil temperature gauge doesn't reach the half point until I've arrived at work already.
That's completely normal; oil temperature always lags behind water temperature. In your case I'm actually surprised that it warms up so quickly.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
Best Regards,
Shipo
I need an expert opinion on whether I'm going the right direction with replacing the outside temperature sensor and if so is there a diagram with the proper installation. It seems like since the air is cold-warm-cold again possibly the compressor kicking on/off. I had my mechanic test for freon levels and that checked out ok along with the compressor.
Below is exact problem:
http://en.allexperts.com/q/BMW-Repair-805/C-Temperature-Sensor.htm
At what mileage range can one usually expect the pads/rotors to be replaced? On a BMW would just pads be changed and the rotors be still OK? (I also have a Volvo S60 where rotors are changed at the same time as the pads).
Thanks.
This engine ticking/lifter issue seems to be getting out of control. After replacing our faulty lifters, our car still ticks intermittently. I've been keeping track of this on other forums, and it appears they are re-designing a new cylinder for the 3 series engines, since replacing the lifters does not permanently fix the problem.
You can read more about this at the following link- there is a whole thread dedicated to the issue:
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1311875#post1311875
Seems to me they shouldn't wear out so fast.
Anyone aware of ball joint problems on the 325xi sedan? Any knowledge of recalls, repair bulletins, etc for this?
Thanks --
Drum brakes aren't subjected to additional wear since they reduce front brake wear by only slowing down the rear portion of the car and aid the front brakes, which take the full force of the car to stop.
To answer your question, I believe the rotors will still be good when you change just the pads, unless you've been using the car to do alot of burnouts. Since you have a BMW with 4 sets of disc brakes, its good measure to replace ALL pads simultaneously at a total of 80.00. Consult with your BMW dealer or your owner's manual for recommended brake pad replacement intervals or brake pad thickness prior to full replacement when it may not be necessary. But you don't want to excessively wear the pads down because then they'll cut into the rotors and then you'd have to replace ALL brake pads and ALL 4 rotors at an additional estimated 75.00 and more for a rotor making the grand total $380.00 for an abused braking system. And, I didn't even include the brake wear sensor that will be needed to be replaced once activated. Keep in mind, if that electronic wear sensor is tripped, that sensor will keep the dash indicator lit until you replace ALL worn down brake sensors, even though the brakes were properly serviced. Domestics have just a strip of metal that makes a squealing sound indicating worn brake linings and that sound will go away once the pads are changed and no brake sensor will need to be replaced, making my brake job FAR cheaper than your's, but consider what we drive.
I'm not sure if your car is covered under a service warranty, but I think the mounting bolts holding your calipers on are standard metric, not some BMW issue bolts since they know other garages may have to replace the brakes 10 years later when the car's off warranty. That means you can replace the brake pads yourself, but remember to block the rear wheels when jacking that car up or you'll find out like I did when my '87 BMW 528e started to roll backwards. Look at videos on Youtube.com detailing brake pad servicing and changing.
On a side note, while servicing the brakes, examine all brake lines going to each wheel the brake lines under the car going to the rear, and the rear lines. Also check under the hood all coolant lines, brake lines, power steering lines, all hoses and electrical wiring. Use a lubricant recommended by BMW to lubricate electrical wire sheathing or covering, fluid hoses, and any fittings to ensure a good seal to those fittings. Hand clean the engine bay with a damp rag and a non-reactive, mild solution approved by BMW.
Look for oxidizing, oil deposits or sludge, damaged hoses or worn out hoses, bad electrical connections, leaking reservoirs, fluid leaking from engine, etc. Make a note of it during vehicle routine maintenance to get the car more rapid but less costly preventive maintenance for your car.
Keeping a clean, well-maintained and properly lubricated engine bay is not only one simple cheap solution to reduce excessive wear and tear, but also helps keep the vehicle's value up because it's clean and the engine bay has been routinely maintenanced, ensuring that most if not ALL accessories still work when you go to sell the car.
10 years later, if this car is a dirty, rust-box that has non-working accessories caused by electrical faults, engine overheating due to poorly sealing coolant lines, power steering problems due to fluid leaks and seals that haven't been properly maintained or replaced severely reduces its value and will only cost you more money in the end.
Ball joints should only wear out if the replacements that are on the car NOW if they were previously replaced should go bad if the replacements aren't what was recommended for that type of car. Or ball joints may go bad if the previous owners have been using that car for an off-road buggy.
Also, did this car previously have large, chrome, non-factory rims installed? Because some thug gangsta's rims, if not sized for the vehicle properly (tire size, rim weight), that'll easily destroy the car's suspension system as with any car and most of those rims aren't designed properly to be put on the car. In fact, the factory rims should be the only ones put on there since the are capable of handling the car that they were designed for.
Also, research the business with the Better Business Bureau. Has the garage been known for overbilling, repairing cars that didn't need that type of repair?
Because if the mechanic is trying to rip you off, getting 2 or 4 ball joints replaced on a newish BMW is costly and he'd make a nice pay off of it. But I'd start by taking the car to a different garage not affiliated with that garage and not only check the ball joints, but give the car a good once over, looking for traces of previously replaced parts, any servicing, was the car routinely maintained at proper intervals and any other components to the car that are soon to go bad.
Many BMWs are highly reliable and will handle a lot of driving (the 1980s BMWs are tanks) and will respond very well to servicing and maintenance with full replacement being the last option if the car was excessively used or abused.
Why? Every BMW I've owned going back to my 1973 Bavaria 3.0 has worn the rear brake pads at @50% of the rate of the front pads. Last year I replaced the original rear pads on my 1995 E36 and at over 103K miles they still weren't worn to the factory minimums- and this was on a tracked and autocrossed car.
...you'd have to replace ALL brake pads and ALL 4 rotors at an additional estimated 75.00 and more for a rotor...
That's somewhat high for a RWD E46; OEM front rotors run around $52 and rears go for about $42.
Keeping a clean, well-maintained and properly lubricated engine bay is not only one simple cheap solution to reduce excessive wear and tear, but also helps keep the vehicle's value up because it's clean and the engine bay has been routinely maintenanced, ensuring that most if not ALL accessories still work when you go to sell the car.
That's why I was able to sell my wife's 130K 1997 528i for twice what Carmax offered.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
And "depends how many times you use your brakes or how hard you use them" is obvious which is why I stated and repeat - no heavy driving. The car is mostly driven by a careful wife!
My wife is "careful" too, which means she goes through brakes faster that I do! She applies them at corners I accelerate through and also tends to tap them if she sees ANY brake lights ahead. Urban driving combined with "cautious" driving can wear out a set of pads rather quickly.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
I still have no clue whether pads/rotors will typically need changing at 30K, 40K or 50K etc etc.....
And you still don't, and nothing anybody tells you here will change that fact. Like it or don't, your pads will wear out when they wear out. Of the mileages that you listed, you might get any of them, or more or less.
Best Regards,
Shipo
I drive pretty hard and most of my cars need pads at the 30K mark or less. I never turn rotors regardless...either they are in spec and clean as they are, or they are too rough, and they go. If I stopped in 20 feet when I was 19 feet in back of a truck, I'd be very unhappy that I saved $200 on rotors.
FWIW, my car has ~130K miles on it and other than the ignitor problem early on, the HIDs have been flawless. On my wife's Odyssey, with similar miles, I've replaced the halogen on one side twice and the other side once. So, based on personal experience, it seems that while the xenons are more complicated and would be expensive (out of warranty), they are more robust too. I believe in the future I'll stick with HIDs simply for the wider pattern... our area is loaded with whitetail deer and it's really nice seeing the green glow of their eyes BEFORE they make it to the road!
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
I am wondering if anyone can suggest a specialist or repair shop in Los Angeles which can do the job. I do not want go back to BMW because I have many bad experience with them before. Thanks.
Your car has the M44 1.9 liter engine which has a timing chain. Your car should easily go at least 150K before you should even have to think about replacing it. Who told you that the non-existent belt needed to be replaced? In any case, I'd look here if you still need to find an independent BMW tech.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
I know several BIMRS members, but haven't dealt with any in your area. The shops I do know provide first class service. Are you a BMW CCA member? If so, ask some local chapter members which shops they use.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
Repeat after me:
No US spec BMW four cylinder engine has EVER used a timing belt.
That said, BMW did supercede the M42 chain tensioner with the improved version(PN:11311743187) which was fitted to later cars.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive