BMW 3-Series Maintenance and Repair

killorhome

I have a 2001 325 & while long term storage, battery ran down quickly (3wks) but my car didn't have full alarm. I ended up paying for new battery.

killorhome

Thanks for the quick reply. Nah, no offense taken, drivability & emissions checks aren't the problem/concern. Just that stupid light illuminated in my face everyday!!

killorhome

There are 2 plans for a used BMW. A warranty plan usually termed "silver/gold" etc. which covers powertrain electrical repairs & a "maintenance care plan" which will cover oil etc. When i purchased my used warranty from BMW, a maintance car plan wasn't even offered & only a limited warranty. If maintance isn't free (very unlikely), i'd either just get oil changed ($65-85) & skip the expensive "checks" or find somewhere cheaper than BMW service(just about anywhere)

roadburner

So the service specialist told me that my car is due for a 14 pt inspection/check and I ask him how much it is, he told me it's going to be $750 for the check, I was a little shock and I just opted for a change oil. I needed an advice for my next service appt due approx. 6 months if I really needed the major inspection

If the car was due for an Inspection II it SHOULD have been performed- either by a dealer or a good BMW independent shop(see below). BMWs need to be maintained by the book, or the repair costs will get you. In most cases, the best way to keep maintenance costs reasonable is to find a GOOD independent BMW tech; you will save 25%-50% on service compared to the dealer. You should also join the BMW Car Club of America, which will provide benefits such as technical advisors and 10%-20% discounts on parts and/or labor at many BMW dealers and independent shops. As you probably know, modern BMWs use a Service Interval Indicator to inform the driver when routine maintenance is required. On a 2004 E46 an oil change will be called for at @15,000 mile intervals. A minor service(Inspection I) will come up at @30,000 miles and a major (Inspection II) service at @60,000 miles. An oil change using synthetic oil will cost $60-$100, an Inspection I $150-$300, and an Inspection II $450-$800. Coolant must be changed every three years-using BMW Coolant ONLY, while the DOT4 brake fluid gets flushed every two years. In the newer cars I change the so-called "Lifetime" ATF fluid or manual transmission oil and the final drive oil every 50,000 to 60,000 miles. On an AWD vehicle you should change the transfer case fluid as well. I also change the oil myself at 7,500 mile intervals using Mobil 1 0W-40 and a BMW filter. Note that my cost numbers are approximate. For example, if you change the oil yourself using a BMW filter and Mobil 1 or BMW synthetic the cost will be @$45. Based on my experience, a BMW 3 Series like yours will usually cost @$50-$75 per month to maintain. Please don't take offense, but if you are unable or unwilling to maintain your BMW properly you should probably look for a vehicle which does not require quite so much care.

skj109

I own a 2006 330i that has 33,000 miles. I'm already starting to get nervous about when the warranty is up. I owned a 1998 M3 before and was unable to find someone I could trust to take my car to. I hate to say it, but i really feel like i'm going to be ripped off by car shops. I'm a woman who knows very little about cars so i'm not in a position to challenge when they come with all these things that so-called need to be fixed. So I thought I would start my search now for anyone that knows or can recommend a place I can take my car. The dealers are just too darn expensive. I live in the Wilmington, DE area and travel to the Washington DC area alot. So anywhere in between there or even Philadelphia area would be convenient. Thanks!

roadburner

Check out BIMRS. It wouldn't hurt to join the BMW Car Club either, for the reasons mentioned in my prior post. CCA members are one of the best sources for information on BMW dealers as well as good independent BMW shops.

kissiovs

I have 2003 325i, 50000. The service engine soon comes on and off. It was serviced 3 weeks ago and the light was off, but the service center says it will come on again and so it did. Funny it did! The fault code is/was 2761. Honestly i have a feeling they are doing this on purpose just to sell service you don't need. Anyway can anyone help with reading the code and what can I do to clear it.
Thanks!

nbb

This is a weird one. I have a 2001 325 CiC with 69K. This noise has been there for years. It only occurs when the car has been parked for about 12 hours, and cannot be heard once the morning temps are above around 60 degrees. About two or three seconds after the engine first starts, I hear a scraping noise that almost sounds like a belt or pulley. When I put it in reverse, I hear the noise while backing out of my garage. But once I go forward a short distance it goes away and does not return until the car is again parked overnight. The noise does not happen when I leave work each day. I guess because it's only parked about 8 - 9 hours.

If it was a pulley, wouldn't it make noise all the time? Same for the belt? Any ideas are welcome!

kyfdx

Rust forming on your brake rotors, overnight?

roadburner

About two or three seconds after the engine first starts, I hear a scraping noise that almost sounds like a belt or pulley. When I put it in reverse, I hear the noise while backing out of my garage. But once I go forward a short distance it goes away and does not return until the car is again parked overnight.

The belt tensioner on my 3er does the same thing. It's made the noise for a couple of years and I've been to lazy to fix it.

nbb

Doesn't seem to be related to pressing the brakes. Would it rust that fast?

nbb

If it was tensioner, wouldn't it make the noise all the time?

If it is the tensioner, is there an easy fix for this?

kyfdx

They definitely get surface rust, overnight...

You said you heard it when you backed up.. My driveway is a little downhill to the street, so my brakes are applied the whole way down..

But, if you hear it on start-up, that probably isn't it..

roadburner

If it was tensioner, wouldn't it make the noise all the time?

Not necessarily, the tensioner is fluid damped and the belt is a rubber composite. Both are stiffer at low temperatures.

If it is the tensioner, is there an easy fix for this?

Yes. Replace it. That said what you or your mechanic should do is remove the belt, let the car sit overnight and start it in the morning. No noise means that you have isolated the cause of the problem.

pat

Here's the link: JingleJill, "BMW 3-Series Tires and Wheels" #142, 21 Mar 2008 10:40 am.

widriver2

It did not start again yesterday and today, but I was able to start it with the other key. So it appears only one key is working. However, when it did not start in February I believe my wife tried the other key and had no luck. So either I flooded it or something and that's why last month the second key did not work; both keys are having problems; or the key issue is something new and different. Or maybe the problem caused my key to short??? Just taking shots in the dark.

omegagen

I just purchased a 2005 330i w/ 42000 miles. When I went to get it serviced at my local BMW facility I was told that my car was still eligible for the BMW maintenance extended warranty. He stated the warranty was 6 years(from date of delivery, 12/04)/72000miles for $1300. I'm not sure if I should take this or not. One minute I think it's a good idea the next it seems like alot for 2 1/2 years &/or 30000 miles. Any comments to help me decide?

Thanks!!!

rhmass

I bought the extended maintenance for my 2002 325exT
at about $1,250. I just had my last service visit earlier this month under the contract. Unless you can and are willing to do most of the maintenance yourself, it is a good deal. I had both my front and rear brakes and rotors done, two oil changes, two set of windshield wipers replaced and all drive belts replaced during this extended coverage period. It is definitely a bargain for someone intending to keep the car for a while longer.

jaedlee

328I 4dr 2008 brake locked up twice w/start up with reporting of service light. the car started up fine but this occurred. When i turn the ignition off then restart, everything was fine... any thoughts??? thanks in advance.

sunilb

Just an update... this morning at ~ 87.2K miles, the yellow oil lamp came on so I added 1/2 a quart. So, that's a bit over 2,000 miles without having to add any additional oil.

Next time I bring the car in, I will have them check/replace the oil separator valve.

canman1971

Hey guys, I'm considering the maintenance program because my car will hit 50000 miles soon, but my dealer quoted my 1695, which I know is too much. I also know some on here have gotten theirs from another dealer around the country, due to the fact it doesn't matter which one you get it from. Now, I do have an independent tech that did/does a lot of my work. For example, oil change is like 65 rather than the 120 my dealer would charge. So, has anyone bought one recently at a lower price and if so which dealer. I know I should stop being a lame [non-permissible content removed] and just get the manuel many here speak of and do stuff myself, but I'm not sure I'd feel safe after I did my brakes :sick:

shipo

The good news is that 3-Series brakes are among the easiest that I've ever done. There are any number of DIY posts around the internet on doing the job, and if you take a look at them, I think you'll see just how easy of a job it is. ;-)

Best Regards,
Shipo

roadburner

I agrre with Shipo. Learn to do it yourself. Stick $1200 into a Money Market account. You'll come out way ahead.

mitchs3

I went to a party at a downtown hotel last pm with valet parking. When the valet brought my car back to me, after 20 plus minutes, he apologized for the wait, then I drove home. Upon parking I could not lock the car with the remote key/fob combination on my 02 330i. The trunk release also would not work. The car started okay, but the remote features did not work. I manually locked the doors with the key in the drivers door. I used my spare set, and all functions work fine.
I know it is not that the keys internal battery is weak, as the failed key is my daily user, and I use the spare every few months for a day or so.
It was very rainy last pm, so the valet could have dropped it in a puddle, or I wonder if he placed the key in someone else's BMW, could this have reset the codes? There was a long delay till they brought me my car and I am sure something happened. Also my car returned with a new nice scratch on the rear bumper, like he backed into something. I know this is new as I washed the car just before the party.
I believe a replacement key is $150. Could the dealer reset the key codes if it became out of sync? Could the dealer test the key? Sounds kinda weird that the key would fail all of a sudden....I will be calling the hotel on Monday.regarding rear bumper damage and key fob failure. Do these services have insurance? ...I hate valets... Next time we go to a place with valet, it's the wife's minivan, though I like to take my 330 out on on a nice out..

roadburner

Next time we go to a place with valet, it the wife's minivan, though I like to take my 330 out on on a nice out...

Once you get a chance to talk to people that used to be valets you will not let a valet get within 500 yards of your car.

mitchs3

Agree. Any thoughts on the key/fob suddenly failing?

pdude1

What is the break in mileage and speed for a 335i and what are the parameters?

etomori

Check out TwinKidneyGrill.com. This is the Georgia BMW dealer which gives the best prices on factory maintenance programs and extended factory warranty, if you qualify for it. The extended factory warranty (100,000 miles or 6-years from in-service date-original purchase) can be bought by any owner. It was $995 for this owner of a used 2003 330i ZHP from a non-BMW dealer. I was not eligible for a factory-extended warranty nor the CPO extended warranty.

The vehicle had 34,000 miles on it when it was purchased and BMW honored over $15,000 worth of warranty work on it. Just went through Inspection II, the costs being covered by the extended factory maintenance program. It is a gamble if it would cover the brakes because I may go over the 6-year time limit for the replacements of pad, discs and the like.

The oil change for $65.00 looks like a "loss-leader," because 7 quarts of factory recommended oil (5-30) will cost at least $42 plus tax and the factory filter, about $10. Would recommend changing oil and filter every 7500 miles instead of the factory 15,000 even though you purchase the factory extended maintenance policy.

The Inspection II will include brake fluid and coolant changes, oil filter changes and inspection of the various sytems on the vehicle. There are threads in E46 Fanatics which will give you what will be done to your vehicle at Inspection II. It you need brakes, it would be worth it at the $995 level. I think Twin Kidney has upped it to $1095, which still is a bargain.

Check out if the oil change due mileage will indicate a need for oil change before you hit 50,000. If so, bring it it and have the car inspected so that the warranty may pay for needed repairs. If not, think of getting the extended maintenance policy from Twin Kidney.

There are lots of DIY threads in E46 Fanatics. BTW I do not think Edmund's BMW forum is as good and informative as E46 Fanatics.

Good luck.

circlew

Tried to open the trunk with all 3 methods key fob, dash button and key with no success.

I am assuming this would be electrical, possibly a fuse?

Thanks for any feedbacj.

Regards,
OW

widriver2

I've had problems with one of my keys as well. It no longer will start my car. how common is this?

cobra10

HI, I BOUGHT THIS CAR 1 YR AGO IS A 2002 BMW 325i, WHEN I BOUGHT IT ON THE DEALER SHIP THEY DID NOT SHOWED ME, THE PREVIOUS RECORD OF THE CAR, LATER I FOUND OUT THAT HAD ALREADY BEEN CRASHED, THE CAR STARTED TO HAVE A BAD PERFORMANCE, ENGINE SERVICE LIGHT TURNED ON, I HAD TO CHANGED THE GAS FILTER AND I ALSO HAVE CHANGED THE WATER TEMPERATURE SENSOR THAT IS LOCATED NEXT TO OIL FILTER AND THE LIGHT WILL CONTINUE TO TURN ON AGAIN, SO I WENT TO AUTO ZONE FORM THEM TO CHECK THE LIGHT AND THEY GIVE ME A REPORT WITH A CODE (P0128), SO I STARTED TO SEARCH ON WEB TO SEE WHAT DID I HAD TO REALLY CHANGED BUT NOW I AM CONFUSED BECAUSE I HAVE SEEN THAT THEY MAY BE 2 DIFFERENT TYPES OF SENSORS THAT MAY CAUSE THE LIGHT TO KEEP ON TURNING ON, BUT I AM NOT REALLY SURE IF THIS TYPE OF CAR HAS 2 SENSORS,THE REASON I NEED TO FIX THIS PROBLEM IS BECAUSE I HAVE TO GET NEW LICENSE PLATES AND I WILL NEED TO GO FOR A EMISSION TEST AND I AM AFRAID THAT THE CAR WOUN'T PASS IT BECAUSE THE ENGINE LIGHT IS ON, CAN YOU PLEASE HELP ME OUT TELLING ME IF YOU KNOW WHAT TYPE OF SENSOR OR PART WILL I NEED TO CHANGE AND WHERE DOES EXACTLY IS LOCATED, ANY INFO WILL REALLY HELP. THANKS A LOT. :confuse:

bdkinnh

Just a friendly tip: posting in all caps isn't a good idea. It's hard to read, and many people (like me) don't bother trying to read it.

kominsky

According to Bentley, a P0128 code is "Coolant Thermostat (Coolant Temperature Below Thermostat Regulating Temperature)"

I'm not sure if that would affect emissions or not.

BTW, the others have made a good point about the caps lock.

cobra10

thanks for you help and tip the coolant thermostat is next to cylinder head or next to the oil filter? i replace the last one and is not fix the problem the car get a better performance but the engine light is not desaper my question is those cars has 2 coolant sensor or just one?and were are located thanks again for you help

pbbiker

I just purchased a new factory mirror for my2002 m3. The liquid in the old one evaporated.The dealer sold me a newer model of the mirror,The mirror works great but the remote keys do not open or close the doors or trunk. Does anyone know if the receiver for the keys are in the mirror. Or do I have to find an origional mirror for $ 600.

101driver

sorry to hear about that; sounds like a very problematic dealership; is there another BMW dealership at all convenient? If not, have you considered contacting BMW of NA? I am told they are fairly vigilant.

Also, wonder if you can share your thoughts on the vehicle. I am looking at a used 03 325 wagon (only 19000 miles) and wonder if any quirks or issues you would note (particualarly if there are problem issues). Also, those years were before Steptronic came in, is that correct? thanks for any help you can provide.

doug
dpratt@mesallc.com

roadburner

Also, wonder if you can share your thoughts on the vehicle. I am looking at a used 03 325 wagon (only 19000 miles) and wonder if any quirks or issues you would note (particualarly if there are problem issues). Also, those years were before Steptronic came in, is that correct? thanks for any help you can provide.

The E46 has proven to be durable and reliable. The six cylinders need a water pump at @60K intervals but other than that there really aren't any major problems. Assuming the car is a slushbox, I'd change the ATF and final drive oil at 50K. The coolant should be changed every three years and the brake fluid every two years(this is where a full service history is useful). I also recommend that you have the car inspected by a good BMW tech. The E46 3er is a great car, and there are enough of them around that you can afford to be selective.

imgnohc

So I have a 6 month old, brand new E92. Its automatic. I have about 7000 miles on it. My car has already overheated because of faulty parts which were replaced by the dealer. Mind you the day my car overheated, I drove a whopping 2 miles before it practically died on me.

Now, my car has extremely loud engine noise whenever I turn the a/c on and the thermostat seems to go higher and higher as I drive more miles with the a/c on. Its gone all the way to 250 degree F. I realize its still in the norm range. But prior to the overheating problems I had, the thermostat never moved beyond 210 or so.

Another issue that started after they fixed the overheating problem, is that my passenger side window keeps going down. Sometimes it magically opens 4 or 5 times in a row after I close it. It opens so I close. Then it opens and I close... etc... It's totally random as far as I can tell.

This is trip number 2 to the dealer for my car issues. Please tell me I don't have a lemon...

Has anyone had any similiar problems?

boski

Anybody knows how to dissable the speed governor on 2007 328xi, please ?
I called Dinan rep and he said they don't have a fix yet.

nyccarguy

Trade in your 328Xi for a 328i with a Sports Package

roadburner

You have to rewrite some code in the engine management software, so until some one does that you are out of luck...

rl328

brand new 2008 328xi. I can smell something like burning oil around tires. Tires are pretty cool though. Is this just because the new car needs some time to adjust?

92bmw325is

I'm wanting to replace the left door. If the make and model is the same, would the year matter? Example: Would a 1994 BMW 325IS Coupe left door fit on a 1992 BMW 325IS? Would a 328i or 325i model left door fit on the 92 BMW 325IS.

pdude1

On the 2008 3 series, what's the best wax for a Jet black car?

I've use carnuba wax liquid and paste. Wondering what looks best or what other people have found to work well esp' for darker color cars.

kbhockey

Try Fleet Wax-Collonite No 885

its a paste, for 'aeronautical and marine' finishes--

i have a 06 E90 and love this wax--use it on whatever vehicle i have owned. it lasts quite a long time and the shine is very deep.

its semi hard to find, but you can google it and find it online now much easier-

cheers
KB

gurmehar

while driving smoke appeared from the dash in the car.after parking up and switching the car off the sound of a fan noise kept on being made and would not stop. this eventually led to the car battery being drained. is it an electrical wiring fault ? im not sure can anyone help.

roadburner

What year is the car? Depending on the age, it could be a bad switch, relay, or final stage resistor.

pdude1

Ship wax? Interesting idea!

bemer

Not only ship wax.....
They have also auto products:link title

kirkr

I have a 2006 325xi with 48,000 miles. I have always used premium gas (91 octane). Unfortunately, there is only one station remaining in my area in Iowa that sells non-ethanol blended premium. My question - Is it a problem using premium gas (91 octane) that contains a 10% ethanol blend?

Regards,
Kirk