2010 Mitsubishi Outlander GT
noeffectx
Member Posts: 32
in Mitsubishi
Hi guys,
Just purchased my Outlander 2010 GT, over the weekend. I enjoy everything about it, esp the Rockfordfosgate sound system and rear view camera.
However, my A/C seems not to be working now, its blowing hot air instead, its hot in NYC/NJ area in July and Aug. The vehicle is only 3days old. Should I return it?
Also my dealer told me they cant mount a factory railing/rack on my GT, I have to go 3rd party railing/rack ie THULE or YAKIMA. Is this true?
I'm trying to really love this SUV esp my first one. But i'm thinking of returning this darn thing and replace it with Subaru 2.5XT Limited instead.
Just purchased my Outlander 2010 GT, over the weekend. I enjoy everything about it, esp the Rockfordfosgate sound system and rear view camera.
However, my A/C seems not to be working now, its blowing hot air instead, its hot in NYC/NJ area in July and Aug. The vehicle is only 3days old. Should I return it?
Also my dealer told me they cant mount a factory railing/rack on my GT, I have to go 3rd party railing/rack ie THULE or YAKIMA. Is this true?
I'm trying to really love this SUV esp my first one. But i'm thinking of returning this darn thing and replace it with Subaru 2.5XT Limited instead.
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Yes the GT blows warm air when you start the engine. This is just for 1-2 minutes after that it comes back to your pre-setting inside the car temperature. If the pre-set temperature is 50-60 degree Fahrenheit the A/C system thinks you are in cold weather and there it welcomes you with warm air. However this action is just for 1-2 minutes. Check your pre-setting temperature. The A/C system in your car or the temperature control in your car will be heading to the temperature you have asked (purposely or not) i.e. pre-set temperature.
Yes you are right on this. The GT (model 2010) hasn’t come with a rail rack configuration (I have said this in the thread Outlander 2010 in December 2009). It is also true when your dealer has recommended you to implement the rail rack in a third party shop. However, if you want Mitsu OEM rail rack (+ cross rail accessory) you may order the rail rack kit suitable for the model 2010 XLS from any Mitsu dealer at a price. You may take this rail rack kit to a shop; the shop will drill holes on the top (roof) of your car and fix the rail rack onto your car. The finish must be the same that the XLS 2010. The Yakima or Thule finishing will be not the same than the XLS finish. I had this choice but I didn’t want to do holes on my brand new car.
Mitsu philosophy appear to be that an AWD GT with differential on the front and in the rear (for high speed on the snow) to use a rail box on the top is contradictory to the performance of a GT. If you want a rack box then buy a 2010 model XLS which may satisfy your needs but don’t expect great performance on snow or ice at high speed as it was shown by my GT on snow/ice roads in my adventure to the Patagonia.
I'm guessing it's a mid-year engineering change based on owner feedback.
Personally, I don't think I'd ever use a roof rack as it seems pretty inconvenient but would nonetheless appreciate the option of having one. And since the GT lacks badging - a minor gripe of mine - to denote it as the highest trim line, not having roof rails could lead some to believe that the owner bought a based, stripped-down model when the opposite is true.
Anti theft
I guess I'm just going with Thule, if Mitsubishi can't install EOM rack on my GT.
I will keep you posted, thanks
Ive been calling multiple dealers around my area (NY within 5miles radius) and all gave me different answers. Finally I got fed up and drove to NJ and talked to the salesman who sold me the GT.
I scheduled for next weekend's installation. I'll let you know how it goes and post some pictures too.
1- It doesn’t have a pull switch that electronically rolls-and-tumbles the second row of seats
2- It doesn’t have a headlamp washer mechanism
3-It doesn’t have the Mitsubishi All Terrain Technology (MATT) only Supper All Wheel Control (S-AWC)
4- It doesn’t have a hot-cold thermo box
5- It doesn’t have a Self-Leveling HID headlamp (Adaptive Front Lighting System)
6- It doesn’t have cornering head lamp
7-It doesn’t have a LSD-rear
In my opinion Mitsubishi needs to get better in the following:
a- Stronger interior quality material (not necessarily luxurious)
b- Put another layer of body paint (At manufacturing)
c- Increase the body panel thickness metal by 1/2 mm. Toyota and German cars look more solid (more meat).
d- Widen the front wheel fender (arches) by a couple of millimeters to prevent small stones flying from the front wheel rotation to sand paper effects on the rear wheel fenders. MMA still hasn’t fully solved this problem.
I use the “snow” settings usually when it is snowing and when the snow on the tarmac road is not greater than 2-3 inches deep or when there are ice patches on the road. I didn’t drive at speeds greater than 60 mph.
I use the “lock” setting when the driving speed is restrained by any condition on the road that keeps me at speeds no greater than 25 mph. The conditions of the road that restrained me from driving fast were: rugged terrain, e.g. stones (gravel) above 1 inch diameter, corrugated surface 1 inch up-down, broken stone/rock surface paths, thick mud, slippery muddy roads, sand, and so on. I have also used the lock setting when the tarmac road was cover by 4-6 inches deep snow.
I have used the “tarmac” or “snow” setting on well maintained roads without tarmac usually at speeds below 50 mph.
I have noted a few ASC flashing warning light on the instrumentation control when the system is telling me that my driving is a bit dangerous.
When the speed is going to be below 30 mph for a long time the ASC should be disabled according to the experts.
The problem of taking the GT to extreme driving by playing with the settings is that any distraction may make you forget that a setting has been changed and suddenly you find, for example, you are driving on tarmac when the car is engaged in “lock”. It happened to me a few times in spite of the fact that the driving setting is lit up on the instrumentation panel. There may be many things outside the car that mess up your concentration.
Having the GT the main differential mechanisms, the vehicle needs to be complemented with a good set of tires. This is my suggestions: (1) - If the vehicle is going to be driven 30% off tarmac and 70% on tarmac (regardless of weather conditions) then use a tire with a thread width of 215, or 225, or 235. (2)- If the vehicle is going to be driven 70% off tarmac and 30% on tarmac (regardless of weather conditions) then use a tire with a thread width of 245, or 255, or 265. If you expect to use point (2) then a mud flap (flexible) is recommended on the front fender wheel arches to prevent stones flying onto the rear of the car.
The GT stock tires, i.e. 225/55R18 may well fit point (1) above. To comply with point (2) you may need to secure wheel sizes of 16-inches, or 17-inches diameter, e.g. 265/70R16 or 265/65R17.
2- It doesn’t have a headlamp washer mechanism
3-It doesn’t have the Mitsubishi All Terrain Technology (MATT) only Supper All Wheel Control (S-AWC)
4- It doesn’t have a hot-cold thermo box
5- It doesn’t have a Self-Leveling HID headlamp (Adaptive Front Lighting System)
6- It doesn’t have cornering head lamp
7-It doesn’t have a LSD-rear
Of those features, which can be found on the GT's direct competitors (RAV4, CR-V, Forester, Edge, Equinox, etc.)? In order ..
1. What non-luxury CUV/SUV offers power folding 2nd/3rd row seats? FTM do any luxury CUVs offer that? The Lexus RX doesn't. I'd take a power liftgate (which the Outlander could seriously use) over powered tumbling seats any day.
FWIW I think the 2nd row seats tumble just fine but take too much effort to un-tumble. Not a problem for me but it's a little difficult for my wife who is short & not very strong.
2. Would be nice, but not something I'd pay more than $100 or so for. On the RX, which I'm using for humorous comparisons this morning, this is only available as part of the $4900 Luxury package.
3. S-AWC is arguably the most advanced AWD system in the Outlander's segment. For the vehicle's intended market, S-AWC is more than adequate. A better AWD system might help for those who off-road as you have but let's be honest; this simply doesn't apply to the majority of people who buy CUVs (of any make). The RX doesn't even offer an active front differential; just front/rear.
4. Not something I'd pay for. When unused it'd eat into available cargo space. When needed, I've an old $35 cooler that holds ice for 5 days in 90 degree heat w/out needing power. And it can be removed from the car to take to the picnic table. I wouldn't mind, though, if they did that trick that VW does (http://blogs.insideline.com/roadtests/2010/07/2010-vw-gti-the-secret-fridge.htm- l)
5. They are leveling but are not automatically so. I don't see what the big deal is, though. Adding weight sensors or suspension travel sensors to read the spring compression in order to adjust the lights would add needless cost & complexity. Again, which competitor offers this? On the RX it's part of (yet another) $2060 Comfort package (also needed to get rain-sensing wipers which the GT has standard). BTW I like the manual control myself as I prefer it on 1 instead of 0 for daily use.
6. Might be useful, I suppose, but the HIDs throw light plenty wide (as well as far) IMO. Not something I'd pay for and it reminds me of the old cars with pop-up headlights where you'd always see one "winking" at you after a year or two when the motor would break. Part of that $2060 package on the RX.
7. (See #3)
So you can't get everything you wanted even if you took a $39K RX and added $7K worth of packages. That should tell you that while there are options you'd like, they generally don't fit the market the Outlander competes in. I'm not saying they don't have value; just that they don't have enough potential market value for the automakers to include in this class.
a- Stronger interior quality material (not necessarily luxurious)
b- Put another layer of body paint (At manufacturing)
c- Increase the body panel thickness metal by 1/2 mm. Toyota and German cars look more solid (more meat).
d- Widen the front wheel fender (arches) by a couple of millimeters to prevent small stones flying from the front wheel rotation to sand paper effects on the rear wheel fenders. MMA still hasn’t fully solved this problem.
I don't take issue with any of these except that the added panel thickness will adversely effect weight & thus acceleration & fuel economy without helping the Outlander's already-very-good crash test results. They'd probably have to balance that by using either more plastics elsewhere or by using more expensive materials like aluminum.
d- Widen the front wheel fender (arches) by a couple of millimeters to prevent small stones flying from the front wheel rotation to sand paper effects on the rear wheel fenders. MMA still hasn’t fully solved this problem.
Back in 2007 when my '08 Lancer GTS was new there were several guys and some gals who bought Lancers who complained about chipping paint. And it sure seems that widening the fender arches a titch might solve that problem.
Having said that, my wife and I's '08 Lancer GTS has what our dealer calls the 'Auto Buter' treatment. Basically it's a paint protectant and polish regimen that gets applied every 6 months as per the agreement in our purchase contract. We don't have the paint chipping or pitting, though, so it seems to be working.
It might be worth bringing this to the attention of Mitsubishi engineers, though. Maybe one of us popping an e-mail their way, seems to make sense to me.
2021 Kia Soul LX 6-speed stick
Twould be nice to see Mitsubishi step up with something simple to remedy this.
2021 Kia Soul LX 6-speed stick
For example the announced new Outlander Sport comes with the one-touch start system that is not found (yet) in the GT and it may also come with the “switch that electronically rolls-and-tumbles the second row of seats” and more. How does MMA expect to sell next year GT without something to entice in the buyer?
My daughter's Sesame ST shows to go
Owners of the 2010 GT may order those badges from any Mitsubishi dealer. Installation may be done in the same dealership (at a cost).
Also, I just had my Outlander GT oil changed at (3000 miles) from JIffy Lube and still getting the message 'routine maintenance required'. Do I need to bring my GT every time I get an oil change?
Thanks
If you turn it on and it goes off again, I'd suggest there may be a sensor that's not working right or is sensing an actual (minor) issue; take it to a dealer as it'd be covered under warranty.
As to the oil change reminder, Jiffy Lube should have reset it as part of the change; take it back. BTW if yours is so equipped there are maintenance reminders you can set in the MMCS for oil, tire rotation, etc. that are independent of the Driver Info Center display (between the speedo & tachometer).
Were you at 6 months and needed the oil change? Normal oil change interval on the GT is 7500 miles or 6 months, whichever comes first. You do not need to change it any more often than that (lots of newer cars are going to longer oil change intervals).
My Subaru Impreza 09 also got a similar ASC but I can turn it on or off while the engine is running.
The problem is...I am not seeing any display after I turned the ignition "ON". So I really cant tell if its on or off
The engine oil recommendation for both your V 6 and my 4 cylinder is to use only ILSAC certified oil or if that is unavailable an API classification SM oil is acceptable providing it is SAE 5W-20. I'm wondering what JiffyLube used and what your Mitsu dealer replaced it with.
In doing some research into the 4B12 engine which powers the Outi ES I've found that it is actually designed to run on 0W-20 Lo-viscosity oil to assist in getting a high power output and low fuel consumption.
Another issue is the requirement for Mitsu vehicles operated in Canada to have oil and filter changed every three months. It has occurred to me that this is needlessly wasteful and expensive and might be extended by using a synthetic oil.
"ONE DAY. TWO CUVS. FIVE GUINNESS WORLD RECORDS.
To demonstrate Mitsubishi's All-Wheel Control technology we set out for some unforgiving terrain in Alberta, Canada, with our Outlander crossover family. We came home with a handful of official Guinness World Records."
300 m - The greatest distance by a vehicle in reverse on snow in 30 seconds - Outlander Sport
56.2 m - The shortest braking distance by a vehicle on ice (30 mph to 0 mph) - Outlander Sport
3 laps - The most vehicle figure-of-eights on ice in two minutes - Outlander
1:11 min - The fastest vehicle slalom relay on ice (1/4 mile) - Outlander & Outlander Sport
19:31 sec - The fastest driven square lap in a vehicle (gravel, 100 ft. x 100 ft.) - Outlander
To me the most impressive are the figure 8, slalom, and the ice braking. The ice braking looks especially boring, , which is exactly how you'd want it to be. And the figure 8 & slalom show how the AWC system can benefit in everyday winter condition driving.
(Cross-posting to relevant threads)
Anyway, the bar has been set. If Subaru or any other manufacturer wants to beat it, they're welcome to try. And if they do beat it, Mitsu will have cause to better their cars so they can retake the honor. We all win as the cars get better.
(Actually, we don't know that these are first-time GWRs as there's no mention by Mitsu or by Guinness about prior record holders. I checked obvious categories like tallest person @ the GWR site and it doesn't mention prior record holders.)
GWRs that don't impress me are ones that don't actually have real-world value/implications. Things like http://www.guinnessworldrecords.com/search/Details/Largest-parade-of-Land-Rover-- /-Range-Rover-vehicles/59909.htm. Ditto tallest/shortest person stuff where the record has more to do with genetics than a conscious effort on behalf of the record holder.
At least Mitsu came up with categories that are meaningful in the real world. While going a good distance backwards on snow isn't too useful, the other categories demonstrate features of their vehicles that I might actually use in winter driving or in emergency maneuvering.
Anyway, Mitsu has established the baseline you desire. Who is up for breaking the record? If the feats weren't impressive, it'd now be easy to steal the potential marketing thunder & out-do them.
Thanks for putting it up.
Anyway, the bar has been set. If Subaru or any other manufacturer wants to beat it, they're welcome to try. And if they do beat it, Mitsu will have cause to better their cars so they can retake the honor. We all win as the cars get better."
Could not agree more Fushigi. Very well said
When this car is not driven usually the battery gets flat after two months. I didn’t disconnect the battery because I was afraid of upsetting the standard electronic settings of the car. However, the car battery was completely flat and it took about 15 minutes to be recharged using the jump leads from the battery of another car. At the end the car regained its natural electronic settings. Next times I leave the GT stationary I will disconnect the battery.
I will keep you informed about the responses of this car as I did in my travel to the South Pole last year.
If so can you provide details?
Many Thanks
"MMSCAN's position on the use of Synthetic oil is that we have not had enough significant research done on fully synthetic oil in our vehicles and for this reason we're unable to comment on modifying the interval or the use of this oil. Some oil manufacturer's may have their own warranty on their product's use and if the customer has a specific oil that he wants to use, he may want to research whether this is the fact."
Comments anyone?
While under warranty I'll only use the oil specified in the owners manual.
It appears that the 7-seats GT may be not offered for sale in the USA probably in the near future because of poor sales. The 7-seats GT appears to be sold only in the USA. Australia sale the GT with just 5-seats and the 7-seats is not even an option. Russia, Europe, China, Middle East, and Latin-America do not sale the 7-seats GT. It may happen that from 2012 the GT may be sold in the 5-seats version only. Could some members detail further in this point?
Mitsubishi Motors offers the 7-seats (with the exception of the USA market) in not GT models. Bad/poor sales seems to be a factor to stop production, for example the KIA Borrego was taken out the USA market just because poor sales although the Borrego was a very capable SUV. However the Subaru Tribeca has very poor sale in the USA but the car is still being offered.
However, I drive a lot I have already put in over 2,400 miles on it in 3 weeks. So here is my critique:
-Yes it has much better handling than a lot of SUVs
-Has ample acceleration and power - shifter paddles can be fun
--Engine can be noisy at high revs - expected
- The front seats seem comfortable at first, but if you sit in them for any length of time you realize the back support just isn't right and my lower back has started having minor aches now whenever I sit in it - It just doesn't support right. Also the seat cushions get flat fast. They do not seem to absorb any shock to suspension and travels right to you.
- The armrest is too hard (cloth on top of hard plastic - no padding) and not in the right spot, it is too far back.
-The little rings around the instrument cluster - rattle like no other on bumps (you can feel that they are not secured all the way around - i plan to just glue them in place (they feel snapped on)
- Interior can scratch easily - but not as easy as the Edmunds staff makes it sound (takes more than my fingernails or regular normal usage folks).
-The exhaust booms the interior when cruising at around 65 then you let off gas and the tach drops below 2000 (like downhill or coast) this subtle Thrum sound is very unpleasant - dealer said normal exhaust sound - meant to be sporty
-Gas mileage has been as expected which is good
-This car makes me want to just accelerate it hard every chance because I get so annoyed by driving it slow, at least when driving hard it is somewhat fun
- The ride is way to overly stiff and freeway driving on average roads is annoyingly jostling. This car reminds me of the feeling of a jeep it just jostles you side to side and you feel a single bump 4 times it feels like, bigger bumps feel harsh. Now I am use to different suspensions - I have recently had (Mazda 3, Honda civic, Porsche 944, dodge caravan) and this suspension is the worst set up in terms of daily driving bump absorption - not sure why. You feel every little road imperfections. - Again the dealer drove with me and said this is how they feel (sporty and communicative) -
- Cabin noise is stupid at freeway speeds - you hear every car beside you, you hear the engine noise, you hear road noise, you hear the tires thrumming on the pavement.
- The stereo is not as great as everyone makes it out to be - the Rockford Fosgate system (i do not have nav screen so maybe there is better adjustments) - seems to miss a whole range of sounds and suppresses them to background - it is overly powered with synthesized bass sound. The sound I will admit is great for rap and R&B - but for rock, alternative, country or anything else - it just plain doesn't sound good to my ears. The bass isn't the nice hitting bass; it’s like the loud annoying bass that the low-rider next to you is bumping. Basically you hear the voices and the synthesized bass and some guitar---all the other nice sounds in a song that really pull it together aren't crisp. Anyone know a way to adjust sub amplifier? I have tried an endless amount of options on the stereo...but none give it a full crisp sound. (yes I tried the settings: Normal, Stage, Live, Hall - Normal, R&B, Rock, Country - Bass -6 to +6, Mid -6 to +6, Treb -6 to +6, Fader -11R to +11F) - and yes I have had cars with 10" subwoofer before
- the Bluetooth is not good - Over half the time people cannot hear me even with full reception - and yes I have had in car Bluetooth’s before and know how to use them. When they do hear me they say it has that annoying tinny sound
- After driving in the car even with the stereo low with all the noises, exhaust, etc. I feel like I just walked out of a medium loudness bar - not a very refreshing feeling.
In the end I see the error in my ways I should have went for the car with the most comfortable and quietest cabin and smooth riding feeling for an SUV. I still have the Porsche for fun driving, but was hoping to get a compromise with something bigger that is still fun to drive. The outlander could have been this, but fails as it has all the annoying traits listed.
I really wish I would have went with the Terrain for the same price - from what I see it has a quieter interior (double pane windows, noise cancellation) - a bit more forgiving ride - equal or better pioneer sound system - more seat adjustments. The only minuses is that it is a pig in the handling department and the V6 AWD systems eats gas (16 city, 22Fwy) - but I think I may be able to live with the 4cyl for better gas mileage. Also doesn't have as large of a storage area - but still good for what most people use it for. (Missing features (better lighting on outlander, automatic rain sensors on outlander, fold down tailgate) - but who cares about these ones really?) Also the outlander for the price came with a sunroof - the Terrain does have roof rails which the outlander doesn't - I would now rather have the Roof rails instead of sunroof as I never even open the sunroof anyways (I thought it would be fun - it isn't just annoying noise and sun beating on your head - making you feel tired after driving) - also you don't really see the sunroof area when driving as it is too far back)
Anyway that is my rant on the Outlander