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Comments
Good Luck to everyone already in arbitration.
chaucer - As for as not being able to shift into D3, D2 or D1 - been there done that. Its an odd shifer movement and it's not like other cars I've owned. I bet if you just pull down on the shitfer in the circular motion that it travels it will work. Don't pull it towards you or it will not go past D4.
treyh1--I located the rubber bumper you're talking about. I'll give that a try also. Thanks again!
Dorhn
This week the brakes started chirping when stopping. I stuck my finger in to get a feel for how much pad is left. Not much...definitely less than 1/4 inch...probably about 1/8 from the feel.
So...we have just under 15k miles on the van. Seems a bit odd to have to replace the pads already. Typically we seem to get double that mileage (or more) out of a set of pads on our Accord.
Anyone know if this is normal for the Odyssey? Is it normal for minivans? I assume this is not covered under any warranty issues, right? Normal wear and tear?
Thanks for any info. No, I don't love this van...I want to, but I just can't when it seems like it's in for some kind of service or problem every month.
Billy
billyymc@aol.com
Jim d.
Jim d.
Test them with a roll of paper towels.
2- I have had cold weather starting problems on ocassion, once had the dealer tow the car. Engine would turn over fine, but would not start. When towed to dealer, van started fine. I was glad I aske the tow truck driver to try to start it (so I knew I wasn't nuts). Dealers advice is to wait a few seconds after turning the switch on before engaging the starter, allowing the system to boot up and the fuel pump to fully charge the lines (????) Anyone else?
This power flush is supposed to clean the engine with 'The EnviroLution Engine Life-Guard System'. This flush will clean the every part whereever engine oil reaches and removes all contaminated oil. Normal oil change would cost me $21, but this flush will cost me $120(inclusive of oil/filter change).
Is this worth the money? Does it really help? Has anybody done it and noticed the difference? Pl. reply me... Thank you.
Seriously, imho, so long as you change your oil/filter as recommended in your owner's manual, there should be no reason to flush out "contaminated oil" or "sludge".
Steve
Host
Vans, SUVs, and Aftermarket & Accessories message boards
Did they promise to kiss you during and still love you afterwards?
Seriously, what a Scam! This is a Honda dealer? I've noticed that my non-dealer mechanic (Goodyear Tire Store) has been pushing this for ATF changes. I didn't bite. I'm coming up on my 2nd ATF change soon (90k miles), and will do it myself. Cost = 3 qts of Honda ATF at about $4.50/qt.
There has been some discussion about the motors in the rear windows. Mine were very loud. We had the motors replaced. They were better at first, but are back to the original sound. Oh well!
1 is door switch circuit or dcu(door control unit)
2 is remote control circuit or dcu
11 open switch circuit or dcu
12 switch circuits or dcu
13 remote control or dcu
14 handle circuit/switch or dcu
15 keyless reciever unit or dcu
21 rev sensor circuit or dcu
22 same
23 dcu
24 rev sensor lines or dcu
25 slide motor problem,dcu or ground problem.
We see alot of code 25 and there is a service bulletin out for its repair that has us do some adjustments and ground improvements.Have not seen any other codes as of yet.Of course there are more extensive possible sources within the code itself but these are the basics that are in the manual.
Also, the infamous "Bang in Reverse" is caused by - guess what? - "reverse selector" not fully engaging the counter-shaft reverse gear. The TSB# is A00-065, issued by Honda on 8/22/2000.
Well, I think I have done enough analysis on the Honda automatic transmission. My wife is really upset because she think I spent too much time with the Ody!
BTW, my next car will be from Honda, and it will have a manual transmission!
Happy driving!
With all the problems you've had with the vehicles and or the service departments would you still recommend the Ody or no?
It's so hard to decide when you look at the safety ratings compared to the other minivan's on the market but even on the 2001 Ex model we looked at yesterday at the dealers one of the rear doors wasn't responding properly.
Thanks in advance!
Thanks again!
So far we are very pleased with the Odyssey. No pulling left or right, no tranny noises, I don't even hear the infamous gas sloshing.
Jim d.
I don't have wind noise from driver and pass window in my '00 EX.
Basically to doors begin to move, determine power required, then try to close. There isn't alot of time left for obstruction detection and reversal.
That 12" is plenty for my 4YO son - he's pretty skinny. Me on the other hand....Besides, I don't think the door would really crush anyone.
I would guess that all power doors operate on a scheme similar to this.
First let me tell you that I have just posted this to the general Ody group (Odyssey XXX) but then I thought that this group might also be helpful. So, please don't be upset if you see this posting twice, I think it is in fact appropriate for both groups.
This is my first posting here although I have lurked for some time but I could never contribute. Would like your opinion now.
We picked up our LX today. Went over the very helpful checklist published here and did not find any problem listed (no clunking in reverse, no pull to right etc). HOWEVER, there is one problem: The salesman told us that there had been some transport damage: somebody dropped a chain on the van during loading or unloading. He (and the sales manager whom he brought in when I started to ask questions) said that it was purely cosmetic and that it had been completely repaired. On my request, he showed (and gave) me the copy of the repair bill ($650.-, mainly labor for painting plus replacement of a 'molding' and a 'garnish,' the latter supposedly being the rubber strip over the roof carrier attachment).
The paint job was certainly done very nicely; I could not find any paint line. The only problem I could see is that the rubber molding around the windshield is peeling up slightly from behind (about 2 mm) where it meets the rubber strip over the roof carrier attachment (garnish')). The sales manager said it should not make any problems since 'the natural movement of rain' is from the front of the car and that I should simply avoid spraying water across the roof from behind when I wash the car to avoid water entry. Also, that the deformation would disappear by itself over time.
The only other defect I could find was a rattle in the rear door, sounds like someone dropped a screw in there or something. They said they would fix that the next time I came in since they did not have a mechanic on duty (picked up the van Sat afternoon). I also noticed that the brake drums (rear wheels) were really rusty but was told that this was normal in any car.
In the end, I signed all paper work and took possession of the van (one caveat: since my credit union is closed on Sat, I only signed a promissory note saying I would bring the check on Monday but I suppose this is equivalent to having given them the money).
So, here is my question to the group: did I make a mistake in accepting a car which may have problems? Should I have insisted they fix the moulding before I pay for it? At the time, the slight deformation of the windshield moulding seemed like a minor problem but when I later thought about it I was no longer sure that the rain know how it should 'move naturally.'
Perhaps more importantly, should I have negotiated a lower price for the van since it was damaged and repaired?
Other than that, it looks like a really nice vehicle. Other stats: paid MSRP, entered waiting list last October, paid deposit in December. Only option we bought was the Hondacare warranty 7/100K/0 which I got for 885.- after I told them I could buy it for this price on the internet (this group sure saved me a bundle there!).
All of these won't affect the performance or reliability of your vehicle and that is why you buy a Honda, Right? I hope
Happy driving
Other than the Michelins, traction control, seat height adjustment, LATCH system, and intermittent rear wiper are there any other changes to this model.
I am interested more in the suspension differences. Specifically a strut brace that I have heard is now part of the suspension on all models of the 2001 that was not on the 1999 or 2000 models.
Also, have any of the owners of the 2001's experienced a vibration (75MPH shimmy)? It does not appear to be that common anymore as I look through the discussions and I am wondering if maybe this strut brace could be the reason.
After parking at the store(it's a level parking area) and the children have exited, my wife pulled the outside handle of the right sliding door and it started to close, as it is closing, she presses the keyless control unit to lock the doors and go into the store. When she came out of the store, she noticed that the sliding door did not latch close completely. She tried to close or open that door using both the handle, the keyless control and the dashboard switch but none works, the door simply did not operate at all as if no signal is sent to the motor at all. That's when she decided to turn the dashboard switch to Off and manually tried to shut that door so she can drive the van home without the constant beeping.
Just as a proper procedure type of question: are you supposed to press the lock button on the keyless control unit while the sliding door is operating? It shouldn't be that restrictive, should it?
I have just read some of the postings from Auburn63 about resetting the door but I have not tried it being that it is so late in the night right now. Anyway, any input from the readership here is appreciated.
I remember that they beep when I try to make them function when already locked. Did the door beep 3 times or just screw up with no warning ?
The doors do require some on job training to get them to function each time reliably.
I have a 99 EX with over 34K miles on it. I get over 20 MPG with 70 % commuting and 30 % highway miles. My "needs gas light" came on at 348 miles on the odometer. I filled it up with 16.67 gallons. That comes to about 20.88 miles per gallon. My gas milage got better as the van aged.
I have not had 1 problem with it. I'd recommend it readily. As for my dealer, they are outstanding. They even wash it with an oil change.
The salesman may have been wrong but I wanted to mention this.
Jack
I, too, would be interested in hearing from others who have had this problem and how they solved it as I've not read anything on this forum about a similar problem before.
Jim d.
This was the same salesman that told us that he thought the effort that he put into "trying to sell us" the van at over MSRP, no deal on options and a 5 week wait was worth $500.00 that we'd save going to another dealer that had one in stock next week. His effort consisted of calling us 3 times at home to try and set up an appointment for us to come in that was convienent for him and actually showing us the car. Unfortunately for him was not! It sure was worth a good long laugh though!
Yes, I have this problem also. I have an appointment tommorrow to drop off the van so they can look at it again. This will be the 3rd time it will have been in for this problem. Previously they kept wanting to group it with the noise that occurs around 40 to 50 mph with a transmission cable. I think they usually refer to this as a torque-converter lockup problem.
After I talked to several another service manager, he now thinks I might have a different problem.
Over time, the problem has gotten easier and easier to reproduce, so I believe it is getting worse.
I believe the problem is that the torque-converter is locked up (as it should be at the time) and for some reason the transmission decides to unlock it, but then suddenly decides to relock it, etc. The main symptom is that the RPMs end up bouncing around.
At first, it required a hill to reproduce, but now I can do it easily on flat straight ground. I think I have gotten reproducing it down to an art-form now.
In case anyone else wants to try:
Need flat or slightly uphill straight stretch of road.
Accellerate to around 40+ mph.
Let off the gas and watch the tachometer drop to around 1500 or below. (This should trigger the lockup.)
Then start accelerating very slightly.
If the tachometer suddenly jumps up and you actually start accelerating, then you have given it too much gas.
As you apply the gas, the engine will sound like it is accelerating, the tach will not move and the speed will remain basically the same. After a few seconds, the transmission will decide to unlock the torque-converter and the RPMs will jump, only to immediately drop back down, then to jump, then to drop. As long as all the variables remain steady, I can keep the transmission doing this for awhile. To stop it, either give it more gas, or let off the gas.
There is no real noise associated with this (that I can detect) and no one other than the driver can even tell it is happening (in other words, the ride remains smooth during this.)
By the way, I have a 2000 LX with 21000 miles. Problem was first noticed around 14000 miles.
I don't want to worry you but mine has had the shimmy with Firestones, Michelins, numerous balancing, new rims (steel) and alignment. Honda dealer says Honda Canada (I'm in Canada) has instructed them not to attempt to fix vibration problem. I have had to get Honda Canada's approval for all wheels etc.
I also find that both my front tires wear the outside edge as if it is "snowploughing" down the road. There is actually a lip that is forming on the outer tire "tines" Dealer says the wear is normal. I showed him another Ody sitting there and showed him it wasn't. No comment other than I must be under inflating tires. My comment back was that they are the ones who have set the pressure. I just maintain it at what they set it.
They haven't been able to fix mine in over a year of trying and I don't think they will and here is why. I met another Ody owner at the dealer in late November who had the same vibration problem. Six weeks later he got back his 99 Ody LX armed with new drive shafts, steering, tires, aluminum wheels etc. he got 400 KM (250 miles) of vibration free driving. He no longer owns this van and subsequent to him disposing of it, the transmission went at 58Km (35K miles) per the leasing co.
I go to arbitration in a week over the vibration. What a frustrating problem. That is why I need info on the strut brace to detemine if Honda used this to eliminate the vibration in the 2001. They are very quiet on this. You know the motto, no fix for problem = no admission to problem.
I hope yours only is an alignment problem as I was hoping they had fixed the vibration on the 2001 as I am considering replacing the 2000 with a 2001. If I were you I would start documenting all attempts to get this fixed. I know it helped me when it came time to file the claim forms for the arbitration.
Best of luck and I hope they fix yours the first time Pymm.
To all those who post wanting to know if I would buy another one, the answer is YES but an LX. I think I just got a Bad one this time. No other problems with gas gauge, tranny, or doors (it's an LX) stereo is OK, back-up are weak and the rear nozzel is bad. No other van compares for size, comfort or reliability although, having said this, it is not my old Japanese build Accord.
Once Honda observed the problem, they scheduled a transmission replacement. The Odyssey has been fine since (about 5 months now.)