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Honda Odyssey: Problems & Solutions:(1995-2004 Models)
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Comments
Steve
2. Relay stuck into "on" position.
Have the dealer check the relay.
Wow, these town hall discussions are really helpful.
Wish you many more miles of trouble free cruising in your Odyssey.
What do you all think of the extended warranty, and can it still be bought between $750-$900 as I remember it posted quite a ways back?
Thanks
LX model - manual controls
Rear Air blower on high, ac compressor off, front blower off -
Problem: Rear air speed fluctuates...
Dealer says: it is due to the voltage change as you speed up and down around town. This will also affect your dash lighting - they may sometimes dim as your speed fluctuates.
does that make sense???
I'm not an audiophile but I thought I'd ask my Honda service guy. I'm in Eugene, Oregon. He said he hadn't heard of this, but since Honda wants to take care of their customers (really he said that) he would replace them, no problem. So I have an appointment for Monday. He said the new speakers are better than what I have in my 2000 ODY. If I can tell the difference there may be hope for us non-audiophiles and a rash of speaker swaps at Honda dealers all over the country!
Lately I just noticed the hot air still coming out of vent even the fan is turned off.
Is this normal? The warranty expires soon ...
I haven't visited here for a while, but the previous posts kinda alert me. Is this tranny problem frequent on 99? I begin to wonder maybe I need the extended warranty, which is really really sad ;->
Yes, dc0027, do buy the extended warranty - wish we had. Didn't think we'd need it with Honda's rep. Disappointing. I'll let you know what response we get from Honda.
About the poor gas mileage from wp62: If you live in an area where they make the special winter blend of fuel that has enthanol or whatever for reduced emissions (I know Denver and some other big cities do this during winter months) it often results in lower MPG for many vehicles. Just a thought, not knowing where you live, but perhaps this is a factor.
Still concerned new tranny will only last another few years and we'll be back to this problem again.
We keep our cars until they are scrap and expected this van to last over 10 years.
I must reiterate that those of you still under warranty should seriously consider purchasing the extended warranty before your time is up. We never purchase extended warranties on anything, but we wish we had on this vehicle.
Thanks for all of your responses on this matter.
Any suggestions would be helpful.
Thank you.
I noticed that a Honda dealers Ody courtesy van also has horizontal crack across the bottom of the windshield.
Anyone else have this problem?
Basically, the sliding doors often don't shut properly (the trailing edge sticks out slightly when this happens) and then the door sticks when you try to open it next time. Now my right side door has developed a "hitch" as it moves forward to close. The dealership is always able to fix the problems when I take my van in, but within a month or so the problems recur. I seems that Honda has a fundamental design flaw in these sliding doors. It also seems that I will be stuck with shelling out $125 to $275 every few months to have the doors repaired again and again for as long as I own this van. That's very disappointing.
tju: strong argument for an extended warranty. You can still get one, though not as cheap as it would have been.
-juice
I have a clunking that comes from the front suspension or front end when it goes over sharp bumps. Gentle bumps don't do it.
It almost sounded like noisy valves in the front struts, but they were replaced this week along with all new mounting plates, bearings and rubber bushings. It's still there - maybe even more pronounced with the stiffer new struts.
You may remember in our earlier discussion that the noise seemed to be more prevalent after replacement of the timing belt at 105,000 miles; and you wondered if it might be a loose subframe. Everything seems to be tight when checked by my independent mechanic who is now really frustrated and curious about what the problem is.
It is definitely in the front somewhere and clatters/clunks when going over speed bumps and the like. It's much more substantial than what I would call a "rattle"; and sounds like something heavy hitting against something else up there.
Any WAG's on this one? TIA for any thoughts you may have.
Our last trip to the dealer for warranty service left us less than impressed with dealer service. They reported the 'clunk' and responded with the usual 'could not replicate' business. We're going to try a different dealer per the recommendation of someone on this board but I just wanted to get an idea of other people's experiences.
After reading all the problems with the '99 am I being totally paranoid???
Keith
Warrenton, VA
What model year did you have the sliding door problem with. Wasn't there also a recall on those doors?
I'll get the sway bar links checked to see. A bit of side to side motion when hitting those sharp bumps or hitting the speed bumps at an angle seems to exacerbate the noise. Thanks for the suggestion.
I just looked at the shop manual and don't see anything labeled as a "sway bar". I see a short vertical rod called a "stabilizer link". I also see a reference to the rear engine mount, which is located down under near the steering gear. Would that have been loosened (and not retightened) when the timing belt was replaced?
1. Some bearing is prone to wearing out, and this causes a rumbling noise in the differential. This happened to us at 33K and the transmission was replaced under warranty.
2. There is at least one 'clunk' problem caused by transmissions that were not machined properly.
Re: The differential problem. BEWARE that some people on this forum say there are rumbles that are normal. I don't know how to tell the difference, but the Honda technician did recognize ours as a problem.
This is happening to people whose vans are out of warranty, then Honda negotiates to determine how much they'll cover. People are considering a class action lawsuit to recover any money they have paid.
Re: the clunk problem. This appears to be a VERY common problem with '99 and 2000 Odysseys. Here's how we reproduced it for the technician: Park the van on a pretty good incline with the nose pointing down. Start the van, put it in reverse, and back up the hill. Apparently, the clunk occurs because the gears aren't engaging properly.
Another probable cause is that people tend to shift gears (going in opposite direction) while the car is in motion, such as shifting into drive right after backing put of a parking space with the vehicle still rolling backwards. Since there are no synchros in this tranny, you should ALWAYS stop the vehicle before switching to R from D or vice versa. My $0.02.
I really am curious about this. Could some '99 and early '00 owners out there try this and let me know if you hear the clunk?
I agree with the symptoms and solutions to the parking brake and gear shifting clunks
understand that there is no synchromesh but shouldn't the torque converter handle that sort of
situation? After all what's the difference between rolling gently backwards while engaging drive,
and slipping backwards on a hill while in drive or an enthusiastic launch from a standstill?"
First question: Yes, the torque converter should be able to handle this, to a degree. Some auto trannys are more lenient than others, for some reason this particular transmission is more sensitive?
Second question: The difference is that in the first case, you're actually changing gears, from R to N to D, whereas in the other cases, you're already in D. BTW, trying to "balance" an automatic while going up an incline via throttle, only generates wear and tear on the tranny, so the brakes should be applied instead.
nlwalden - This is common with the '99 and '00s, you should take it to the dealer, as they have a service bulletin (SB -0065 IIRC). on this one. My '01 doesn't do that all.
Thanks in advance.
My independent mechanic may not have checked the sway bar/stabilizer links on a platform hoist, so I'll recheck them too. I also want to look closely at the rear motor mount, because that's one I don't think he checked carefully; and this clunking happens on sharp bumps where the engine may be thrown up and down a little more sharply than on larger more gentle bumps.
Whatever it turns out to be, if we can find it, I'll let you know what it was. Thanks for your help.