02 Windstar from brake question

mlauermlauer Member Posts: 1
edited October 2014 in Ford
The 2 bolts to release the front brake calipers are larger than 9/16 but smaller than 5/8
so i thought they were metric,
but they are larger than 14mm and smaller than 15mm

anyone else have this problem or know what size they are suppose to be?

checking online i fond no other people with similar problems
so it makes me think maybe they are 9/16 and mine are rounded a bit or somehting?


  • stamastama Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2002 windstar. Saturday I went to slow down when a car had pulled out onto the road ahead of me and discovered my brakes were not working and the light on the dash was also not working. Also noted the van has no brake fluid leaks and the pads and rotors are in good shape and the brake fluid is at a normal level. the Emergency brake is working and the brake lights are not. Anyone have this issue????????????????
  • crankkycrankky Member Posts: 45
    I am trying to diagnose a strange problem with the brakes on my 2001 Ford Windstar. When the pedal is depressed, we hear a sound from under the dash board that kind of sounds like something rubber being twisted or stretched, kind of a loud rubbery sqeaking sound. This isn't the pads or shoes. Definitely inside the car. I have the Ford Extended warranty and the dealer has replaced the brake booster three times so far. However, that hasn't made any difference at all. They tried to tell me that it's normal but it didn't do it when we bought the car and only started in the last 18 months or so.

    Supposedly, it's the rubber bellows inside the booster making the noise. But, since we're on our third replacement so far, I'm beginning to wonder. What else could be causing this noise? If it is coming from the booster, is there anything else that could be causing the booster to make that noise?

    It's worse when the weather is warm and when the problem really gets bad, the brake pedal gets hard to press, as if there is a lot of resistance.

  • drc2315drc2315 Member Posts: 1
    Dear crankky:

    I have a similar problem with my 2002 Ford Windstar with 77,000 miles on it. I have had an annoying brake pedal noise inside the vehicle since approximately 50,000 miles and after having a front brake job. As the brake pedal is depressed, a squishy and creaky noise is heard - it is more pronounced when the vehicle reaches normal operating temperature. While under extended warranty to 75,000 miles, the problem was addressed but not fixed by a Ford dealership on four different occasions - two times the brake booster was replaced, two times the brake pedal assembly was lubricated. The Ford dealer and Ford Customer Service now claim this is an inherent design problem and cannot be fixed. I have my doubts that it cannot be fixed. Both the dealer and Customer Service refuse to allow a factory field engineer to examine the vehicle. I am continuing to search for a solution. I will keep you informed if I have any success. I also would appreciate any input from you or any other subscribers on how to resolve the problem.

  • basem37basem37 Member Posts: 4
    i have same problem with my windstar 2001 have 46000 miles :sick: :cry::cry::cry:
  • crankkycrankky Member Posts: 45
    I haven't found a solution. But, while searching all of the Edmunds forums, I did find a note in a Lincoln LS forum from someone who had a very similar problem. I thik they said that the fix for them was to replace both the brake booster and the master cylinder.

    The Windstar certainly is no Lincoln, but since they are both Ford products, maybe there's a connection.
  • crankkycrankky Member Posts: 45

    Don't know if you will see this message, but we have finally fixed this problem. Turns out it was the master cylider. The first dealer we took it to replaced the brake booster three times and wouldn't even listen to me when I suggested that he check the master cylinder. He ended up telling me that he's done all he can do and that's just the way it is.

    Went to another dealer and they diagnosed it as the master cylider. Replaced that and the problem is gone!

    I think the total repair cost at this shop is just under $200, but with our ESP warrenty it was $50. Bugs me that I had to pay a 2nd deductible for the same problme, but at least it's fixed now.

    Hope that helps
  • champagne4champagne4 Member Posts: 2
    I just recently purchased a 99' windstar from a kia dealership, beutiful van but im worried because already i see thats its a gas guzzler,when i accelerate it takes a minute or two to pick up speed and the guy told me the brakes were new but its obvious they are not because the brake pedal goes all the way to the floor and they squeak very loudly. Im paying a little under 9,000 for it,and upon purchasing it, the dealer told me that they just had alot of work put into it, did i get a raw deal? please help, any suggestions will be much appreciated.
  • od1od1 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2001 Ford Windstar since 2 days ago whenever is on drive or reverse, we hear sounds like something rubber, the emergency brake light comes on, and the emergency brakes partially engage on their own. I just brough it back from the dealership to have a check engine light and airbag light diagnosed. I checked the brake fluid reservoir and I will check under the car. Is it possible that the e-brake cable or handle is causing the problem?
  • rbayrbay Member Posts: 1
    My wife drives a 2003 Windstar with 50,000 miles on it. There was noise coming from the passenger side front wheel. I removed the hub cap and found 3 of the 5 lug bolts/studs were sheared off. Not sure if this is a extended warranty item or caused by over tightening at the dealership, which I suspect, but I decided to tackle this repair myself. Only problem is I can't get the rotor off. I removed the brake calipers and the axle nut (not sure of the name) and washer. I thought with a little elbow grease I could get the rotor off. 1 hour of pushing, pulling, and banging without success. Is there something I'm missing? I don't see anything else that needs to be removed. Any suggestions? Also, any advice on installing the new studs? Can I just hammer them back in? The parts store guy said I may have to use a drill instead of a hammer due to space constraints. He explained it to me twice and I still don't understand. How does using a drill or a hammer get you the same result? He mentioned using a socket as a spacer...Huh? Any light you can shine on this would be appreciated.
  • jlkincjlkinc Member Posts: 4
    Got the same problem. Put a new master cyl in it and I still have the same problem. It has traction control and anti lock brakes. No warning light either. Any input would be a help.
  • scladysclady Member Posts: 1
    I'm having the same problem with my 2002 Ford Windstar's brakes. Mine has 74000 miles. I have no idea what is causing this. Like you said, it is worse after the car reaches normal operating temperature. Have you found out anything about what is causing this? I'm worried about how much it will cost to fix it.
  • mapwillmapwill Member Posts: 1
    We have a 1998 windstar, 117,000 miles. We first replaced the master cylinder two years ago after taking to the dealer because the pedal had gone to floor. The brakes could not be bled so they said the master was defective. Replaced the master again, still the same problem. Finally the brakes are bled but after two weeks the pedal is back on the floor. The dealer says it's the master, we say can't be. We had it tested and the master works fine. Dealer is now saying it could be the hydraulic unit. Of course that is the most expensive item on the braking system. They cannot guarantee this will fix the problem. I have asked if they can test the part. Of course this is something that they will not say they can do but the chilton's book has the procedure. Has anyone had this problem and can give me any other ideas on how to fix the problem?
  • jlkincjlkinc Member Posts: 4
    I can't help but think that this is a safety recall. There must be a bunch of accident reports that say my brake peddle went to the floor and I crashed.
  • jlkincjlkinc Member Posts: 4
    I had a ford service tech tell me that the problem is a valve in the ABS. He advised me to remove the ABS fuse.
  • carellcarell Member Posts: 7
    My 95 Windstar's ABS activate when coming to a stop. they activate at about 3 to 6 MPH about 50%of the time . I have been told that the ABS control unit is bad. Can anyone tell me if The ABS sensors can be intermittant, or do they just plain fail. The fluid level is at max and there is plenty of miles left on the brake pads and shoes.
  • king12king12 Member Posts: 2
    i have the same problem with my 95 ford winstar the abs is activating too soon causing the brakes to stop then releas again and make a crazy noise, so i checked and the sensor ring on the axel was broke replace axel problem improved a bit but was not solve i will change speed sensor next
  • selooseloo Member Posts: 606
    Just completed a DIY replacement of the pads, front rotors, and rear shoes on the 2000 Windstar with 117K miles.

    Firestone Price: $600 plus.

    With a little help from Oreily's and Auto Zone plus my own elbow grease about $100.

    Works great.
  • mcilvadkmcilvadk Member Posts: 1
    Periodically, when I stop by 2001 Ford Windstar the emergency brake light come on. The emergency brake is handle is not pulled, but I can feel the brakes engaging. The ABS light is not on. The dealer who: 1) serviced the brakes before the problem started and 2)tried to fix the problem now wants to replace the $1000 control unit of the abs systems. I have my doubts because the problem started after the service of the brakes the first time, AND it was the same service tech both times. The only thing that supports their theory is that when I turn off the engine, and restart the car, the light goes off( which would seem to indicated an electronic malfunction)

    Any input appreciated.
  • jlkincjlkinc Member Posts: 4
    Check your brake fluid level, could be low and it turns on the light.
  • qtbaby1974qtbaby1974 Member Posts: 1
    I just purchased a 2000 windstar with 57000 miles from a ford dealer...I need help or suggestions here... before they gave us the car they claim they replaced all brakes rotors and gave us brand new tires...car drives wonderful engine clean, just while driving we get a creaky noise when we accelerate, brake or hit bumpy streets...Initially thought it was the shocks/struts...brought it back to dealer since we purchased premium warranty and they claim its the brakes... that it should go away.. right now its been a full week with the car and we get the same annoying noises...one thing the mechanic showed us is driving while emergency brake is on... u do not hear the noise.. but to me that sounds funny.. any advice will be appreciated..
  • pine2002pine2002 Member Posts: 1
  • kweltykwelty Member Posts: 10
    The recall that Ford recently did involves the cruise control switch and poses a real, very serious fire danger. Ford Windstars are not included in this recall (YET) but they have this exact faulty switch up to 02.

    I post this HERE with brakes because this switch going bad allows brake fluid to leak all over this switch, your shifter switch on your transmission AND your transmission. As for your brakes, you WILL lose brake fluid, your brake lights WILL come on, and you can totally lose braking power if the leak becomes bad enough. As for the transmission, it will cause your shifter switch to short which can cause serious damage to your transmission. It's not just your cruise control that will no longer work if this switch goes bad. AND, the reason for the recall, fires can result, even when the van is not running. People have lost their homes because their Ford was parked too close to their house or in the garage. Google "Ford Windstar Cruise Control Switch" you'll find full details!

    I have had brake issues for a year now and lost the cruise control last winter. I learned about this when I just had to have my transmission rebuilt and am on shifter switch #3 within one weeks' time.

    My transmission issue is not 100% cured, but the new cruise control switch stopped the brake lights coming on randomly AND I have cruise control again.

    If your cruise control switch has not been disabled or replaced with the new part available this past October 2007, then you need to take it to a Ford Dealership ASAP and have it fixed. They will charge you to do this, but I was told that WHEN Ford issues the recall for our Windstars (and that is very, very likely) we will be reimbursed for this. This is a very cheap part that can cause some very, very seriously expensive problems.

    Hope this helps someone figure out their confounded brake issues and spares someone a costly transmission repair, or worse a car/home fire.
  • cowboysfancowboysfan Member Posts: 1
    My husband is having trouble replacing the brakes on our 2000 Windstar. The lug nut that keeps the disc and roter on just won't come off! Any suggestions?
  • deisher7deisher7 Member Posts: 1
    you are so very right. I had the same problem and my brakes went completely out, got that fixed but now my abs light stays on all the time again. do not know what to do to fix this problem.
  • malsmals Member Posts: 2
    I recently replaced the front pads on my 2001 Windstar. Everything went fine, after 300 to 400 miles a sqeaul has developed on the right front when you are braking into a left hand turn. I have checked the anti-rattle clips and they appear to be good. Any thoughts.

  • malsmals Member Posts: 2
  • geneisaac1geneisaac1 Member Posts: 4
    On my own Windstar I had the problem of having to replace my front disc pads 2-3 times a year until I discovered that my front callipers were sticking and that this was a very common problem which results in very rapid disc pad wear.

    Once I replace those sticking front calipers, the problem was solved.

    It's probably a good idea to just replace the calipers with each brake job while your at it. Rebuilt calipers are not that expensive, and by changing them with each brake job, it's cheap insurance to not have to replace the brake pads so often.
  • jakerlindjakerlind Member Posts: 1
    I am driving a '98 Windstar that creates a rather loud squeaky noise from the rear end whenever the brakes are applied for about 5 minutes after a cold start. After that no noise. Pads were replaced 10,000 miles ago. Fluid is fine. The actual braking action also seems normal. Any ideas?
  • mfacdgba33mfacdgba33 Member Posts: 19
    I work for AAA as an Certified mech and Emergency roadside rescue vehicle.
    i have discovered that on many ford windstars the mastercylnder and ABS control go bad at any moment. they start with the funny sounds then just go plop. if the ABS light begins to come on you must get this fixed fast but before then as long as you have strong stopping power your brake system is still running fine
  • mfacdgba33mfacdgba33 Member Posts: 19
    spray some wd40 down the e brake cable hose and also check to see if the rear drum brakes are moveing and releasing when you move the handle it may be that they have a rock in them or that they are stuck in an engaged postion.
  • byrd2byrd2 Member Posts: 9

    I think the rotors are held on to the hub by some screws that are pan head, standard blade screws. I kow your post is dated, but my uncle just had problems with his front brakes, and his rotors were 'bolted' on to the hub with some pan-head screws/bolts.

  • byrd2byrd2 Member Posts: 9
    ISince it is now November 2008, I assume that you have them off already. But the rotors are held on by 3 to for pan-head bolts to the hub. Nice ain't it of Ford to do this on this year of vehicle...

  • byrd2byrd2 Member Posts: 9

    My brother's 1995 Windstar has had the rear drums replaced, brake hardware replaced, as well as the shoes. I had to cut a hole in the old R/R drum to access the brake adjuster to back of the old shoes to get the drum off. After replacing all the hardware, and checking for correct installation, and safe setting the brake shoes, using a gauge, they still act like they want to back off and not touch the inside of the drum. When you slightly push on the brakes, you get a thumping noise and slight pulsation of the pedal. Pushing hard it goes away. The ABS is malfunctioning, as it makes a noise when stopping and at slow speed, or final stop, so I pulled the fuse. The ABS induced noise went away. But I will check the ABS ring gear on that wheel to see if it is the cause. The brake adjuster acts like it is working in reverse to to back off the shoes, rather than set them against the drum as they wear. Any other ideas?
  • yulee1212yulee1212 Member Posts: 1
    2001 Windstar sel...installed new front brakes..we are having a problem bleeding them. Could someone tell us what to do. No air is coming out. We have tried front passenger them rear driver with no luck.
    Is it possible to do at home or do we need a mechanic.
  • jackitup1972jackitup1972 Member Posts: 1
    Changed shoes. No problems, but now it feels like the emergency brake is always on and the drums are overheating. Any ideas??????
  • geneisaac1geneisaac1 Member Posts: 4
    On my own Windstar I had the problem of having to replace my front disc pads 2-3 times a year until I discovered that my front callipers were sticking and overheating, and that this was a very common problem which results in very rapid disc pad wear.

    Once I replace those sticking front calipers, the problem was solved.

    It's probably a good idea to just replace the calipers with each brake job while your at it. Rebuilt calipers are not that expensive, and by changing them with each brake job, it's cheap insurance to not have to replace the brake pads so often.
  • roadstar1roadstar1 Member Posts: 2
    Just did a brake job on my Windstar, front and back. I have replace everything with new from the back plate out. I have a knock that occurs every 360 degrees when applying the brakes in the left rear. I told the auto parts store about it and they replaced the shoes and drum. They said that they have heard of hard spots doing this. I replace these items and the knock is still there. The hub seems fine and I am very confused. I have had it apart a few times and it all looks good. Nothing stands out at all. Any ideas?
  • geneisaac1geneisaac1 Member Posts: 4
    It is possible that either the inside or the outside wheel bearing could have a damaged needle bearing. Remove the wheel, remove the bearings, clean them in solvent, allow to dry, (Remember to never used compressed air to dry the bearing. This will cause the bearing to spin while dry. This will damage the bearing), Examine the needle bearings using a bright light and a magnifying glass. If there is bluing, rusting, groves or rings, on any of the bearings, replace the damaged bearing, as well as the bearing race using the proper methods, correct tools, and recommended wheel grease, packing the wheel bearing as specified. This should correct the noise that occurs with every rotation when you apply your brakes. Good Luck. Let me know if this helps!
  • roadstar1roadstar1 Member Posts: 2
    I never thought of that, I appreciate it and it makes sense. I will check it out and let you know. Thanks!!
  • sheila01sheila01 Member Posts: 1
    I'm hearing squeeking noise from my back tires but the light doesn't always come on on the dash; the ABS light. Can anyone help me? I hope this isn't going to cost me a fortune.
  • mbenguembengue Member Posts: 1
    jackitup1972 -

    I just took in my 2001 Windstar and was given a quote of $630 (I'm in Aurora Colorado) to replace the two calipers, two rotors and the front pads. They said my brakes and brake fluid are fine (even though my brake warning light indicators are going on and off intermittently). Does this seem like a reasonable quote to you?

    Thanks for the advice on replacing the calipers with each brake job - wish I had done so before.

  • geneisaac1geneisaac1 Member Posts: 4
    Q: Does this seem like a reasonable quote to you?
    A: I am handy, have high school auto shop experience, have some tools and shop manuals, so I do my own brake work. I honestly think that $630 is a lot to pay for so simple of a job. It's not the mechanic that gets most the profits, it's the dealership that charges $65/hr. Try to locate a DIY mechanic or a local vocational school with an auto shop instructor to overlook the job. However, If you are not strapped for cash, then by all means have the work done by a professional mechanic that will stand behind his work. Sometimes a mechanic will do the work on the side on a Saturday or a Sunday. Good Luck!
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    Where are the dealerships that charge $65 per hour? I think right around $100 is more typical, at least where I live. $65 would be a low labor rate, even cheap for an independent.
  • bostonwindstarbostonwindstar Member Posts: 1
    Had work done on master cylinder, rear brakes are now locked.
    Master Cylinder was replaced, System Bled., they took off ABS and replaced it and God knows what else. Now all parts are off, lines open
    Brakes are still locked. They want to smash brake drums.......

    When drove into my drive way brake pedal went to floor.
    Hand brake cable is ok.
    How can I unlock Rear Brakes ????
  • wicksportwicksport Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Ford Windstar. Every so often - sometimes not for thousands of miles - the brakes will fail totally. I will hit the brake and it will go right to the floor. I have had this looked at the no one can seem to find the problem. It has happened about 4 times and is very scary. Anyone have any ideas?
  • toronto1toronto1 Member Posts: 2
    i had my master cylinder replaced 4 times over the last 5 years it seems when it gets to our regular -15 weather in toronto i have to press the brake all the way to the bottom to get it to stop. A very scarry feeling. So i automatically know it is the master cylinder again. I am surprised there is no recall as it seems it is a well known fact.
  • sheebacnysheebacny Member Posts: 2
  • sheebacnysheebacny Member Posts: 2
    2003 windstar se just did rear brakes. Had trouble getting the drums off, replaced wheel cylinders, adjusters,spring kit, shoes, drums. Now have a vibration mostly higher speeds 60-75 any suggestions. Bled the brakes and refilled
  • pwd2pwd2 Member Posts: 1
    I had a 2001 Ford Windstar and experienced the same thing you describe. When I would put on my brakes the peddle would get sucked to the floor and there was no way to disengage it. I took it to my mechanic and he tried some things which didn't work and so I took it to the dealer who replaced the rear speed sensor. 3 months later while traveling on a major interstate highway, I put on my brakes to slow down and it happened again. The car came to a halt in the fast lane at rush hour. I had my 3 kids in the car and we were slammed from the side as a car tried to go around us and then from the back. The car was totaled along with the ones that hit us. We are thankful that no one was seriously injured. I will not buy another Ford!!!
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    Yikes, unintended braking...that sounds about as bad as Toyota's unintended acceleration problems.
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